Strong engine smoke after changing the oil dialing caps. Replacing the oilmaging Caps
Insufficient closing of valves leads to the appearance of lacquer sediments in the cylinder head and on the piston group.
Criteria pointing to wear salon:
- regular appearance of Nagar on the ignition candlelight;
- overestimated motor oil;
- lack of stable speed at idling;
- with a sharp increase in revolutions - abundant separation of smoke of the sizogue color.
Passage maintenance includes regular replacement of oil, air, oil and fuel filters. Valve glands are designed to operate a car up to 100,000 km. In fact, it is necessary to replace the replacement earlier than the specified resource.
The device of oilmaging caps (valve seals)
The oil seal has a cylinder form with a truncated cone. For dense contact with the surface of the guide valve, a polymer ring with a spring-expendler is provided. The plastic (or rubber) ring removes the excess oil when the valve rod moves, and the spring allows you to firmly fixed on the rod.
In the design of the gland, a rubber ring was used for a long time. Options from rubber and fluoroplast have recently appeared. This is due to the fact that the rubber is faster all the way and loses its properties. The manufacture of the ring using modern polymers prolongs the service life of the gland.
Purpose of oil-changing caps
Long uninterrupted work in the DVS. Provided by high-quality lubrication of rubbing parts. The oil distribution mechanism provides oil supply in a small amount. Switchgears in the head of the cylinders and the piston group - need constant lubrication. The shaft rotates and the cloud of oil is formed around it. Regulation of the amount of lubrication occurs with oil caps.
Nagar on the surface of the valve leads to incomplete closure and appearance of the gap. In the combustion chamber, a combustible mixture is ignited, and excess oils are settled in the form of lacquer sediments. When lowering the valve down, the stem delicate prevents the excess oil inlet. Protects the piston group from the plaque arising from the combustion of oil and fuel mixes. Oil-oil caps are related to consumables, as they need a periodic replacement.
Location of oilseed caps in the engine
On the cylinder block installed a head with camshafts and valves. The valve rod moves through the guide sleeve. The heat gap between the leg and the sleeve is closed with caps. The gland is located so that the oil from the head does not fall into the combustion chamber. The neck of the camshafts produce oil under pressure, and the rest of the nodes - at the expense of splashing. After removing the head of the engine block and switchgear, you can see the location of the glands in the valve seats.
Signs of wear of oilseed caps
You can learn about the need for replacement without monitoring the engine. There are engineering caps following wear signs:
- exceeded oil consumption;
- bluish smoke;
- nagar on ignition candles.
When depreciation of the oil, oil consumption increases. This occurs when the piston group is "encrypting", but there is a visual difference. Oil drills are noticeable on the Sapunka pipe. Size smoke exhaust - a sign that the oil gets into the combustion chamber. The "Trojection" of the engine and the net on the ignition candles are substantiated by the oil flow through the stock gland. The car requires the diagnosis and replacement of the glands.
The service life of oils does not depend on the price and manufacturer. For budget and premium, the auto resource is designed for mileage up to 100,000 km.
Procedure for replacing oil-leaf caps
- Disconnecting the air filter, removal of the lid and air ducts. Pipes and technical openings are closed with plugs. Candles and cylinder head bolts are unscrewed.
- The piston in the first cylinder is installed in the upper dead point. Removing the lock washer and stars. The lock nuts of the valves are popped, and the regulators are unscrewed until it stops.
- Sugari and springs are removed. The seals are removed. The bushings are lubricated with oil, wear on the rod and are installed with a hammer and rim.
- Collect nodes and details in reverse order. After, the same algorithm change the remaining caps in the order of cylinders 4 - 2 - 3.
The maintenance of each cylinder needs to turn the crankshaft by 180 degrees.
An independent replacement will require a special tool. The main specific adaptation is the "dismounting" of the valves. It will be needed to replace the valve seal. Devices and materials:
- sets of end and precipitant keys;
- extension with heads;
- rod and hammer;
- collet clamp;
- pressing frame;
- tweezers;
- gasket under the head;
- a set of new caps;
- sealant.
When carrying out work, it is possible to replace the gaskets under the block and the head of the cylinders. New seals are selected for a specific engine model.
The procedure for replacing oilseed caps
Consider how the oil caps are replaced by 8 valve Engine Without removing the head:
- Remove the fuel pump and air filter.
- Turn off the battery power and dismantle the ignition distributor.
- Unscrewed upper cover Block, disconnect the toothed pulley and mass.
- Uniformly unscrewing and removing the fastening nuts on the camshaft and bearings.
- We dismantle the shafts and glands.
- Rotate the crankshaft, raise the piston in the VMT on the serviced cylinder.
- Soft rod from tin We insert under the valve through the candle hole.
- We remove the springs with a special device and remove the plates. We carry out the replacement of the seals by pressing the old from the bushings and installing new ones.
- We take the assembly in the reverse order. Go to a consistent similar replacement on the remaining cylinders.
Before installing in rim, the caps are lubricated with oil. They will be pressed into a plate carefully, without sharp strong blows.
Under bolt caps, gaskets and seals are installed. Small elements sort to avoid their loss.
After replacing all the valves of the valves, collect the head, putting on the sealant and a new gasket. Nuts Tighten with a certain moment of effort, according to the manual for the operation of this engine.
For different engines Sets of valve seals differ in design. Installation is made according to technical recommendations Under the concrete car model. When carrying out work, adhere to accuracy:
- coincidence of the diameters of the sleeve belt and the valve rod;
- the length of the seats of the guide bushings and the cap;
- installations for oil with reliable fixation (without the slightest backlats);
- selecting a set of caps for a specific engine model.
The high class of accuracy of the manufacture of parts allows you to increase the density of the connection and the complete matching of the sizes.
There are additives for the restoration of the seals. Their principle of operation lies in the softening of the convexed rubber of the sealing ring. Manufacturers are characterized by the quality of additives. There is a different effect on the rubber: without an effect or excessive softening, which leads to an overpowering of oil.
Good day to all
I have premace 99 year. I purchased in February - this is my first car :) So far I put a bunch of money into it, starting from all consumables / glands and pendants, ending with noise insulation and replacing all acoustics twist. Literally all this time regularly in the services machine used, because I did for myself and literally worked for her. At the very last moment I left the replacement of oil, because The owner who reported that the oil does not eat, and the planned (every 10t) replacement will be in 3 thousand. Departure during this time (I didn't go much, periodically for business) just less than a thousand kilometers, I drove to adjust the shedding slices of gear knobs, and at the same time, previously specified to me for replacement for 2 thousand. oil, because I was glanced to change it, even 8 liters acquired from the dealer to make no fakes, and rinse before, bay the second "set" followed for the summer. Changed with a full plum of old at my request. Judging by the residue in the canister - poured 3.5 with the replacement of the filter, which is the norm.
When I took the car by handing up in boxing, I noticed that I had a white smoke of the exhaust. Having stuck nearby, it came out to watch the exhaust. He smokes already slightly, then everything seemed to do not at all. Having calmed down, took her paint to small finishes (scratches, kings).
Used only after 3 days. Departing with the standing back, drew attention to the smoke, again this smoke! Starting finally understand what something is wrong here, I am watching the exhaust again. On the street warm, about +20 in the sun, noticeably warmer than that day when he took from the service. Meanwhile, the smoke again began to sink as the engine was heating. He spent his finger - on the end of the pipe condensate. It seems everything is in order. Smoking barely can be seen.
I decided to go home around the city, bypass. Within the route, it turned off the music periodically, listened to the engine. Turns - as usual. Fluid temperature - in the middle of the scale. Indication of oil pressure and other concerning the engine on the tidy - do not burn. Sounds are fine. Everything seems to be OK.
arrived, put. Today I began to google, ask questions to motorists with experience. There were assumptions about breakdown gBC pads, etching coolant in the cylinder. The serviceman who serves the car (at the time of the car, he was absent in the box), suggested on the phone that it can be the enhanced valve seals. The only question is that this smoke was not before.
And finally, almost a disconnection - in the evening, accumulating the theoretical course of a young fighter, I come to my mass, checking the level of the coolant, which in a centimeter tank 2, and under the radiator cover - under the neck, which seems to be perfectly, convinced of the absence of blessed flops on the oil-coaling lid The neck of the engine and camshafts, I launch the heart of Masyani. Plant for a split second, followed by seven quiet impeccable work, which seemed to be the fog. And suddenly! - As if the bonfire threw fresh herbs - a thick white smoke, begins to pour and leisurely climb into the air. Dense smoke, obviously not condensate, and what to hell with condensate, when in the yard for 20 heat and in such conditions the activity of exhaust should already be indistinguishable. It was half a minute (no less), the density of smoke decreased several times, becoming a prominent eye of the exhaust. Aid to help the father at my request adds gas to idlingAnd the smoke curtain with a new force is spilled in the yard, hiding everything from the eyes. During Podagazovka, I tried to see bubbles in expansion tankwho would testify to etching the exhaust in the cooling system. NOTHING! The liquid may not have time to warm up, all 5 minutes of operation of the engine did not even move any, nor bubble, nor jerking, nor oil spots on the surface of the liquid. Nothing: (Turning off the engine and opening the radiator's lid, also did not see the oil there. Under the effortless neck, everything is also in normal mode, there is no emulsion on the neck, the oil level is closer to the maximum. Only the yard 100x50 meters is half hidden in smoke. And he has a little smell Gives gasoline, not very reminding butter, and the color is not a gray and not black, but white. And the traces on a white sheet of paper applied to the exhaust, I did not wait.
In general, I confused finally.And finally, the introductory (sorry that at the end of the topic):
dvig. - FP-DE 1.8 Injector Gasoline, Mileage 178T
oil to replacement 5W-40 Castrol Synthetic http://castrol.com.ru/castrol/magnatec_sae40c.php
oil after replacement 10W-40 Liqui Moly semi-synthetic http://catalogue.liquimoly.ru/index....talogue_id\u003d424
(the seller argued that he did not chat, he does not need it). According to indirect signs, I then believed him, now I do not know.
Antifreeze - blue. Just blue :) The only thing that did not have time to change is.
Oil chose by studying forums, since the engine has already walked, the semi-synthetic should be shown to it. Route despite the statement of the seller that the oil does not eat. So calmer. The number of low-temperature density is due to the coming in our Krasnodar in the summer (temperatures from 30 to 43 in the shade), I think what you need. Liquimoli took through a friend, from the supplier to make no fakes.
I repent, did not measure the level of the coolant after the purchase, how did I know. Maybe antifreeze and leaving - but as I wrote above, I did not see this in indirect signs. Option unscrew drain plug Carter and look for the presence of a heavy water fraction at the bottom of the oil? Or again unscrew the candles replaced recently, and try to find "cleaner" from them, which in the idea could "fit" the coolant. Would you have time? Moreover, replacing old candles, noticed that almost everything is normal with them. "Almost" - because the end is slightly curd, but the terminals of the arresters are clean and reddish, I am the edges of the thread - well, the mixture was re-protected, changed because of this fuel filters (both) in the tank, and the air filter. The nozzles wanted to clean the ultrasound at the week or in the service. So all these metamorphoses with the engine began to occur after replacing the oil in the service. Is there really an earliest owner in the old oil an anti-love additive? But damn it, smoke now takes such that it is possible to take it only by a young tree if you drive him into the exhaust.
Help, good people. I feel sorry for the machine, it was scary to say how many in it: (ask questions, maybe something I did not take into account in my story. I will try to answer. Maybe some familiar came across. I am very looking forward to advice. Of course, I will decide whether this problem.
They are also called valve glands. Why do you need these very small details in size? Their destination is to prevent oil leakage from the block head in working cylinders through the valve terminal. According to the design of the product, it is a steel sleeve, "wrapped" rubber with twisted spring. Today, acrylate rubber is used for the manufacture of valve seals - durable and reliable artificial material.
Timely replacement masonry Caps Prevents increased flow Oils and fall performance characteristics The engine caused by stirring the air-fuel mixture and lubrication.
Why are we needed and how oil-chamming caps work
Valve makes a reciprocating movement due to direct contact with switchgear Timing. When it revolves, an oil suspension is created. In this case, the valve periodically enters the combustion chamber zone, where the presence lubricant unacceptable. Occupal caps just remove the oil from the valve rod, not passing it inside the cylinder block.
Over time, they are aging: rubber loses its elasticity, the parts become rigid and lubricating fluid begins to leak into the combustion chamber. To avoid excessive wear of the oil-challenge caps, they must be replaced in time.
Signs of wear of valve glands
If it turns out on time to recognize the failure of these parts on time, it will be possible to avoid more serious damasters of the engine (parts of the cylinder-piston group). Basic symptoms:
- From the muffler tube, a thick smoke with a white or nasy tint is visible: it appears for a short time when the motor starts.
- The concentration of smoke increases with harsh pressed on the accelerator pedal or speed switching.
- Consumption lubricant It increases markedly (more than 1 l per 1000 km).
- On the ignition candlelight detects grinding, they have a black nagar. This is due to the fact that when creating combustion in the chamber high pressure Oil particles through microcamials (enough 0.3 mm) in the threads of the candles are literally squeezed out and traces of lubricating consumables Even around the screw candle are visible.
The wear of the oil-challenge caps cannot be avoided: these components of the gas distribution mechanism are operated in a high load mode. Only within one minute, the valve has time to make 150-1200 "Walker" (clocks). Plus, the product has an aggressive environment: and traffic fumes.
The question arises when to change the oil-challenge caps? If you have a new car, you need to do it approximately after 50-70 thousand km of mileage (mileage on imported machines can be 180 or more than a thousand km).
When ignoring the above signs of depreciation of the seals, we should expect problems with the engine, namely:
- reduction of power (the car will be worse to "pull") due to bad work of grilled candles;
- "Swimming" by idling;
- when turning turns, the motor can stumble.
Also worth paying attention to dynamic characteristics Car - for example, overclocking, and fuel consumption. If these two parameters have not changed, then you can talk about wear of valve glands with a lot of confidence. This also speaks normal compression in the engine cylinders.
Replacing the oilmaging Caps
The duration and complexity of this process depends on the brand of auto and a specific model. But general principles of replacement can be outlined. To successfully replace the oilmaging caps without removing the head you need:
- Fully cool the engine and remove valve cover.
- Achieve coincidence of labels on the pulley, distribution and valah crankshaft.
- Loosen the drive and dismantle camshaft.
- "Empty" valve springs (better use puller).
- Using Passatias or a special collet to remove valve glands.
- Take new products, lubricate their inner surface motor Oil. The same is required to do with their landing place.
- Place the valve glands on the rod and press them through the riser-hammer with a rubber hammer.
- Put back the springs and "drumming" them.
If there are suspicions that the oil-free caps have not changed for a long time, you will have to remove the head of the cylinder block and clear the elements of the cylinder-piston group from Nagara.
Replacing caps on VAZ 2121 (16 valves)
Best of all this operation is carried out on head removed Cylinder block. But if this can not be done, the replacement of valve seals can be carried out in place. You must prepare in advance:
When everything is ready, you can move directly to the process. Action Algorithm Largest:
- Disconnect the plus terminal from rechargeable battery, remove high voltage wires And unscrew the spark plugs.
- Place the upper dead point, how do it, when you change the timing belt (labels on the camshaft, pulley, crankshaft should coincide).
- Take the end key to 12 and remove the valve cover.
- Pull the plugs connected to the pads.
- Remove the ignition coil.
- Remove the throttle (if it is dirty, then using the case, clean it).
- Remove the valve cover and remove the screws by which the rockers are fixed (they also pull them out).
- Take a compressive and "crumble" of the valve, pre-wrapped the fixture with a rag so that the valve clamps do not scatter in different directions. One part of this device is fixed, and the other puts on the valve plate, while simultaneously squeezing the spring and freeing the "cr".
- If the valve when exposed to the tool on it goes into the combustion chamber, then in the candle hole will have to insert a wooden bar, or such a device to stall the valve.
- Remove from the bushings of worn out oil clocks. We press new ones. Assembly, make in the reverse order.
It is necessary to seriously treat the choice of oil-challenged caps for VAZ2112. Experts recommend the following kits:
- 2112-1007026: These are original products produced by AvtoVAZ and installed on the conveyor - are ideal for the Russian car;
- kitMaster-Sport;
- Herzog;
- Triali;
- STD "Reserve";
- Goetze: On this manufacturer it is worth stopping in more detail. Most professionals prefer these products, despite more high cost. The fact is that the valve glands from this company is easier to install (the risks of damage are minimized) and they serve longer even "native" vazovsky.
When buying glands on a foreign car, you need to take into account the design of the caps. For example, on Japanese products inside there is a protrusion that coincides with the corresponding groove on the sleeve.
It is clear that such valve glands cannot be put on European, American or Russian cars. It is worth noting that the removal and installation of the oil-challenge cap will cost them cheaper, even taking into account the purchase of the "dismissant" than the trip to the car service. If there are no opportunities to replace the oil slimming caps, then you can try to delay inevitable repairsWhen using special additives. They are capable of sealing gaps for some time between the valve and its seal. Autochemistry of this kind will cost cheaper than the replacement of the caps (even independent): it allows for some time to continue to operate the car. From the most frequent additives can be noted:
- Wagner (USA);
- Liqui Moly. (FRG);
- Lavr (Russia).
Why you can not ride with worn out valve glands
When a lubricant in the combustion chamber is stirred, the fuction is mixed, as a result of which the oil begins to turn into a combustion product and settle on the electrodes of candles in the form of a black nagar. As a result, sparking becomes unstable, the motor works unstable and does not develop full power. Candle pollution will sooner or later lead to one of the cylinders. Another threatening trouble is the squeak of one or more valves. This is also fraught with a cylinder failure and a sharp increase in oil consumption.
It often has to notice that from exhaust pipe The car appears increased smoking. Sometimes situations reach the fact that the car is literally enveloped by clubs of thick smoke. It is quite obvious that every motorist emerge an excessive smoke indicates the emergence of certain problems with.
Immediately note that not always, but often increased smoke indicates serious. At the same time, for experienced drivers, it is not difficult to determine the reason for the color and composition of the exhaust. However, for beginners, it is not always easy to understand why the engine smokes, as well as determine the cause and reveal, rings or caps. Let's deal with.
Read in this article
Appeared white or black smoke from the exhaust pipe
Let's start with the basic types of smoking for a better understanding of the problem. So, the white smoke from the exhaust pipe is quite a normal phenomenon for the warm engine warming modes. Moreover, it is mistaken to believe that it is smoke. In fact, it is a couple. Water in a vapor state is a natural product of the motor.
In unleashed exhaust system This pairs are partially condensed and becomes visible, and water usually appears on the cutting pipe of the exhaust pipe. As the engine is heated and condensation decreases.
The colder the environment, the more dense the steam is obtained. At temperatures below 10 ° C, the pair is formed on a well-heated engine, and when frost in minus 20 - 25 degrees acquires thick white color With the Sizem Tint. On the color and saturation of the pair also affect the humidity of the air. What she is more, the pairs are thick.
Note that if the pairs are visible in the warm season, it is quite possible, this is due to. Its shade depends on the composition of the coolant, weather, illumination, as well as on the amount of coolant in the combustion chamber. Sometimes he can acquire a gray shade, reminding "oil" smoke. But, unlike butter smoke, which leaves a bluish fog in the air, steam quickly dissipates.
Inexperienced motorist is quite difficult appearance Determine what is a source of smoke. In this case, you can use the verified method of verification. To do this, it is necessary to close the bottom of the exhaust pipe with a sheet of white paper briefly on a well-haired engine, while the condensed pairs in the form of water droplets when the paper gets will gradually evaporate and will not leave obvious fat traces.
If this simple test confirmed that from exhaust system It is steam, not an oil smoke, it is necessary to take measures to eliminate the malfunction that promotes the penetration of the coolant into the cylinders.
Most often, the liquid can fall into cylinders through due to insufficient pull (in winter It is often observed to leak the coolant at the junction of the unit and the head), the progress and less often as a result of education. Opening the radiator cork or, it is easy to identify the smell of exhaust gases and the oil film on the surface of the coolant.
All problems associated with the white smoke from the exhaust pipe require the elimination of not only direct causes, but also a mandatory testing of systems capable of affecting their appearance:, switching sensor, coupling or fan itself, radiator state, its plugs, hoses, or connections. If the white smoke and the accompanying defects are noticed, then the car cannot be operated, since defects will quickly progress.
- We go further. The black smoke from the exhaust pipe indicates the re-enrichment of the fuel and air mixture or the deterioration of the combustion conditions of the fuel. Consequently, we are talking about faults. Such smoke is usually clearly visible on a light background and is particles of soot - the products of incomplete combustion of fuel.
Black smoke is accompanied by a large fuel consumption, often poor launch, unstable engine operation, high toxicity of exhaust gases, and often loss of power due to the non-optimal composition of the fuel and air mixture.
It is important to understand that the observation of symptoms and the rapidly established problem will allow in the future to reduce the cost of repair and avoid serious and fast progressive failures.
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