Installing gur niva 2121 by hand. How to make life easier for yourself and put power steering or electric power steering on the Niva? How the hydraulic control system works

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Now we will describe in detail the process of installing the power steering on a VAZ 2121 (Niva) car. But before starting the process, let's find out what the power steering is generally used for. The main task that it performs is to provide the necessary stability in the event that the tire pressure drops sharply. In addition, it improves flotation in difficult conditions for the machine. And, of course, it reduces the effort that should be applied to the steering wheel during the car turns by three times.
All these qualities will only push the owners of the Niva to install an amplifier on the car. Niva, of course, is not a KAMAZ car, but it is also a rather powerful car.

Removing the steering wheel, filling the system

So, let's get down to tuning. The first step is to remove the steering wheel, and using a special puller, unscrew the central nut. Together with the steering wheel, we will also dismantle the cardan joint. Do not throw away the parts, they will come in handy when installing a new steering wheel and its amplifier. Before proceeding with the installation of the pump, loosen the fan belt a little. Now we remove the fan, insert a spacer under it, and finally attach it to the hub. The system will need to be refilled, for this we remove the cover of the oil barrel and fill it with oil to the desired level. To get rid of unnecessary air in the tank, we will turn the steering wheel in different directions until it stops. In this case, the engine remains uncranked. During pumping, the front wheels should be hung out, or simply disconnected from the bipod the steering rod. It's time to start the engine, in parallel with this we will add oil to the tank. In order to isolate the suction line from unnecessary air ingress into it, we advise you not to fill in oil quickly.
Let the flow rate be approximately 5 liters per minute. You can tell that air has entered the system by the presence of foam. In this case, the car engine should be turned off immediately and a twenty minute pause should be made so that the oil settles and bubbles stop appearing.

System check, air purge

We carefully inspect all hose connections to the units. Damage is unacceptable. If you find a problem area, then the hose fragment must be replaced. Before we get rid of the residual air in the steering gear, we pump the power steering system for about 20 seconds with the engine running. After that, we remove the residual air, this is done all the same way by turning the steering wheel from lock to lock. Bringing the steering wheel to the limit, do not hold it in this position, immediately turn to another. We do these operations about 3 times. The tank cap can be screwed on. Remember that during the further operation of the machine, do not hold the steering wheel in the extreme position for more than 5 seconds, this can lead to overheating of the oil, which leads to pump damage.

Security measures

In the event that during the operation of the car the pump has broken down, or the hose has been damaged, or any other breakdown associated with the steering mechanism, urgently fix the breakdown. Reduce driving as much as possible in this state. It's not safe.
The power steering pump periodically needs to be inspected and cleaned. Do not bring it to an inoperative state.

The power steering did not appear on cars immediately, since the very first cars (and some modern cheap models in the basic configuration like ZAZ Chance) did not particularly need this element due to low speeds, low weight, small contact patch with the road (the first the tires were quite narrow). However, the automotive industry, including the freight one, developed, and in the 30s of the last century, pneumatic power steering appeared on mining dump trucks. A little later, this idea "migrated" in the form of a hydraulic system to passenger cars. In the USA, the first power steering appeared on the Chrysler Crown Imperial model in 1951, and in Europe - in 1954 on a Citroen DS 19. Power steering on the Niva appeared decades later.

How the hydraulic control system works

Power steering for this model

How does power steering work? Its main element is a pump, which, using a belt from the crankshaft, sucks in oil and pumps it into the distributor. The latter, in turn, monitors the force applied to the steering wheel, and with the help of a torsion (follower) helps to turn the drive wheels. When driving in a straight line, the torsion bar does not twist, therefore the distributor channels are blocked and the oil is drained back into the tank.

Power steering is most often beneficial when parking and when cornering, making the work of the hands three times easier. It can also be said that the mechanism weakens the transmission of micro-shocks from the road surface to the steering. The mechanism is also useful in case of a sharp drop in tire pressure. The disadvantages of the power steering include the fact that it interferes with the "feel of the car", so the designers need to reach a compromise between the information content and the tightness of the steering wheel.

Foreign manufacturers are conducting a lot of research in order to make the hydraulic booster light at low speed and elastic at high speed. For this, pressure modulators are installed in German hydraulic boosters from ZF, which, with increasing speed, limit the oil pressure in the working circuit. In addition, schemes with a power steering drive from an electric motor are permissible, which makes it possible to change the pump performance in accordance with the rotations of the electric drive. Sometimes the gear ratio is also changed.

We put the amplifier on the Niva yourself

The power steering is not installed on all Niva cars as standard, so almost all Nivovody strive to improve their car with this useful unit. You can buy both a German and a Russian version, which is better to install in a workshop if you do not have significant experience in auto repair to do it yourself. The cost of parts is about 25-27 thousand rubles, for work at a service station they can take about 8-10 thousand rubles.

Assembled part

The general scheme for installing power steering on a domestic Niva is as follows:


This is the preliminary preparation of the machine for the installation of the hydraulic booster. In addition, the body will have to be modified in terms of expanding the hole in the bulkhead and making a groove in the bracket of the pedal unit (you will need a drill, jigsaw, power saw, file, chisel, hammer, D9mm drill).

To put the power steering, you need to make some changes in the engine. To do this, a mounting bracket from the power steering pump is installed on the cylinder block, the marking of the center of the side hole is determined, and a threaded hole is made strictly 12 mm deep. Then the nut securing the pulley on the crankshaft is unscrewed (with the 4th gear engaged and the hand brake). For injection options, it is required to correct the module (ignition) bracket. To do this, the block of coils is unscrewed from the bracket and its eye is unbent with the help of a vice and a hammer in a certain way.

We will install the power steering on a VAZ 2121 Niva car. Before starting work, let's figure out what a power steering is needed for. First, the power steering provides sufficient stability in the event of a sudden drop in tire pressure. Secondly, it increases the dynamic cross-country ability in extreme conditions. Thirdly, it three times reduces the effort on the steering wheel, that is, it becomes easier to turn the steering wheel.

So, we figured out that the power steering is really needed in the car, let's start installation on the Niva. First of all, we remove the steering wheel of the car, turn out its central nut, this is done using a special puller. The steering wheel is removed complete with a universal joint. The fasteners of the latter will be used by us to install the RM power steering. To install the power steering pump, we need to loosen the fan belt. Next, remove the fan, substitute the fan spacer under it and fix it to the hub. To fill the system, remove the oil tank cap, fill it with oil to a certain level. We turn the steering wheel from lock to lock, while the engine remains not started. Thus, we get rid of the air in the tank. When pumping, we hang out the front wheels or disconnect the steering rod from the bipod. Then we start the Niva engine, at the same time add oil to the tank. It is recommended to fill with oil at a rate of at least 5.5 liters per minute, this will prevent air from entering the suction line. If the oil in the tank begins to foam, then this indicates that air has entered the system. Immediately turn off the power unit and let the oil settle for 20 minutes until bubbles stop appearing.

We inspect the connections of the hoses with the units and, if damage is found, we change the fragment of the hose. We let the Niva motor run for 20 seconds and pump the power steering system, then we remove the residual air from the RM, this is done by turning the steering wheel from lock to lock, and we do not linger at the extreme positions, three times in each direction. We close the tank with a lid, tighten the lid nut by hand. In the course of further operation, it is best not to hold the steering wheel in the extreme position for more than 5 seconds, otherwise the oil may overheat and, as a result, the power steering pump will fail. If, nevertheless, the power steering pump is out of order, as well as in the event of damage to the hose or pump drive belt, when towing the Niva with an inoperative engine, the PM can be used only for a short time until the breakdown is eliminated. Prolonged use of the steering gear with a defective power steering can lead to premature wear. The power steering pump must be periodically inspected and serviced. The flow and safety valves are flushed if they are dirty. This is done as follows: we unscrew the plug over the pump outlet, take out the spring and the spool of the flow valve, at this time we put the plug in place to prevent oil leakage, flush the spool and the safety valve. The assembly is carried out in the reverse order.

Power steering wanted for a long time, the choice was between electric and hydraulic booster. I was in no hurry with this question, and quietly collected information on these units. About email. amplifiers had information that they jammed while driving, and they are not cheap. But the hydraulic booster is a reliable thing, but the price of a new one in 1000 USD was not at all impressive, and it is very difficult to find a used one. And once I had to ride in a new field with a power steering, to be honest, I was expecting a little different. The steering wheel on it is certainly easy to twist, but it is too wadded, you just don't feel the car while driving.
But as time went on, it was cold in winter, and when the frost increased at night, the oil in the gearbox apparently froze and the steering wheel simply could not be turned! And then I just had to meet my friend, he had an UAZ and he boasted that he had recently installed a power steering from a BMW 7 series, I looked at the system, in principle it was not difficult to put it in any field - vaz 21213 2121 21214. During the next Several days without any problems I managed to find a gearbox with a pump from a BMW E34 (the reliability of the steering gears of which are legendary), after some bargaining, I bought a gearbox and a pump for $ 100.
We slowly began to install the system at the NIVU. In order for it to fit normally, it was necessary to unfold the bipod, and weld the Nivov shaft onto the BMW gearbox shaft, then the bipod would sit down without any problems! Since the bipod became much longer than with in stock, a support was made for it. The pump got up without any problems, only the fuel pump tubes interfered with a little, it had to be turned around a little.
It was not easy with the choice of fluid for power steering, as it turned out there are two types of it: ATF (red) and Pentazin (green) produced by BMW, the store said that if red was poured, then red should be poured. But after climbing the forums a little, and it turned out to FAK that there are different types of ATFs, and if you fill in the wrong type that was filled, then the pump fails, but if you fill in pentazine, then no questions arise! Pentazin turned out to be a rare bird in our area, in stores they often offered some kind of green pile of unknown production. Igor (Gunther-E34) helped to get the pentazine, for which many thanks to him!), Although the price turned out to be not cheap (17 euros per liter), but it is better not to save on this! At first I ordered 1 liter of liquid, I thought that would be enough, but some 150 grams were not enough, and I had to order a liter.
The day came when everything was in place, the liquid was filled, you can start! We started it, everything works just fine! Impressions while driving are just a delight! The car seemed to be replaced, the old sluggish cornfield became light and maneuverable, the steering wheel is not wadded like the Niva! In the zero zone, the steering wheel is a little heavier and sharper (there is an adjusting screw on the gearbox, which can be used to adjust the weight of the steering wheel)!

Foreword

The product turned out to be very successful, completely finished and easy to install. There was no need to file after assembly (as in the famous anecdote). All wiring to the correct length, all washers and nuts included. The efficiency is very good and, most importantly, what I liked: the steering wheel returns by itself after turning.

For the information of readers: I did not buy the electric power steering (EUR), but only installed it at the request of the client. From his words, I know that the EUR was purchased on the territory of the All-Russian Exhibition Center for $ 430.

Installation

You need to make sure that the EUR is fully equipped (see also the Packing list):

Remove the terminal from the battery.

Remove the plug on the steering wheel and unscrew the fastening nut, remove the steering wheel:

Unscrew the two self-tapping screws of the instrument cluster visor and remove the visor:

Unscrew the long plastic screws, pull the left side of the instrument cluster towards you, unscrew the nut and disconnect the speedometer cable:

Remove the instrument cluster from the dashboard and disconnect the connectors:

Remove the steering wheel cover by unscrewing 4 M4 bolts and one self-tapping screw:

Disconnect the 3 steering column switch connectors:

Pull the harness down:

Unscrew the bolt securing the steering column switch and remove it:

Disconnect the wires from the ignition switch (write down / sketch their location beforehand):

Unscrew the two bolts securing the ignition lock (one on the left, the other on the bottom right):

Insert the key into the lock, turn it to the neutral position, press on the left side with a thin screwdriver on the lock stopper, pull it up by the key and pull it out of the steering column:

Unscrew the steering shaft bolt from the bottom of the universal joint:

Unscrew 2 bolts and 2 nuts of the steering column (two bolts have shear caps, they break off when tightened, so you can try to unscrew them with pliers; if it does not work, then make a cut with a grinder or a hacksaw and unscrew them with a screwdriver):

Lower the steering column down and remove it from the steering gear shaft:

Unscrew the two nuts securing the fuse boxes and remove them:

Remove the rubber plug from the engine compartment:

Stretch the wiring harness from the EUR:

Connect the EUR wires. Find an eight-terminal block and connect the yellow-blue EUR wire to its two gray wires (they can be seen in the photo):

Carefully pull out the orange wire from the red block of the instrument panel and replace it with the orange EUR wire:

In the same way, pull out the fourth wire from the left (I do not remember the color) and install pink-blue instead. Connect the disconnected wires from the red block through the connectors (included in the kit) to the EUR wires, orange to orange, and the fourth to pink-blue:

Connect the earth wire:

Install the EUR mounting plate, having previously threaded the ignition lock wiring harness into the hole intended for this:

Drill two more holes with a diameter of 8-8.5 mm in place and tighten the plate at six points:

Put on the EUR splines a short shaft with cardan shafts, connect the "ground" wire:

Please note that the cardan forks have different splines in pitch. Therefore, the stub shaft with cardan shafts only comes up in one position.

The second end of the short shaft, together with the EURom, dock with the steering gear shaft. Insert the bolt, put on the second contact of the negative wire and tighten the nut:

Lift the EUR to the plate and fix it by tightening the nuts and mounting bolts:

The upper end of the steering shaft of the EUR has a small longitudinal movement. Install the shaft as it is convenient for you, tighten the bolts and nuts of the EUR and the lower bolt of the short universal joint:

Connect two terminal blocks from the EUR wire harness to the corresponding blocks of the EUR itself:

Install the three-lever switch. Route the wiring harnesses on the right side:

Put the steering wheel down, slightly squeezing it down with two or three strokes. Raise the three-lever switch so that the floating contact touches the contact plate on the handlebar. Tighten the three-lever switch clamp bolt:

Remove the steering wheel.

Install the ignition switch in the steering column (the key is in the middle position, as in the photo on the left):

Press the stopper, and then on top of the key - and the lock will fall into place:

Secure the lock with two screws.

Connect the wires to the lock according to the diagram sketched or memorized earlier.

Dock the three-lever switch connectors behind the dashboard.

Install the steering column cover. Part of the lower half of the casing will have to be sawed off with a hacksaw, since it no longer fits into place - the EUR electric motor interferes:

Install the instrument cluster and visor. Install the steering wheel, tighten it with a nut, put a plug on the steering wheel:

Install the EUR plastic casing (it can be screwed to the dashboard with two self-tapping screws):

Install the fuse on the left wheel arch trim, secure it with two self-tapping screws.

Pull the EUR wire harness to the battery and connect them to its terminals. Cut a larger hole in the rubber plug of the engine shield and install it in place. Connect the battery terminals:

Check that the signal and the three-lever switch are working properly.

Start the engine, turn the steering wheel left-right and exclaim with admiration and surprise "Wow!"

I wish you a pleasant trip.

07.11.04. - Corrections and additions

Applications

Documents attached to the EUR upon delivery. We apologize for the quality of some of the content.

Appendix 1. Packing list

Name and designation according to the drawing

Product electromechanical steering amplifier EU21213.00.000

Passport EU21213.00.000 PS

Bracket EU 21213.100.001

Bolt GOST 7796-70

M8-6g 20.66.029

M6-6g 20.66.029

Washer GOST 6402-70

Washer OST 134505-80

Nut М8-7Н. 6.029 GOST 5915-70

Appendix 2. У important buyer

Dear customer!

You have purchased an electric power steering (EURU) or a car of the VAZ-2121 family with an installed EURU.

In the event that the EURU is disconnected for any reason (a failure in the on-board power supply, breakdown of contacts, etc.), the car is controlled in the same way as in a car that is not equipped with an EURU. The EURU 50A fuse is located under the dashboard to the left of the steering wheel.

Technical characteristics and warranty obligations are indicated in the passport for the EURU.

Attention! The replacement of the EURU under warranty (see clause 5 of the EURU passport) is carried out under the following conditions:

1. There should be no mechanical damage on the EURU body.

2. It is obligatory to have a passport of the product indicating the malfunction and the mark of the installer on page 5.

Appendix 3.

The sequence of operations for installing electric power steering on a VAZ-21214 vehicle

1. Remove the terminals from the battery.

2. Remove the steering wheel, steering wheel cover, 3-lever switch, ignition switch.

3. Dismantle the steering column with the telescopic intermediate shaft.

4. Remove the cover and the instrument cluster.

5. Remove the relay cover located under the dashboard in front of the left door.

6. Pull the wiring harness according to the diagram. Attention: When doing this, do not allow the power cable to come into contact with the moving parts of the wiper motor.

7. Find, to the left of the steering wheel, under the dashboard, a milky 8-terminal block with two gray wires entering one socket. Attach the yellow-blue EUR wire to them in response.

8. Connect according to the diagram to the red block of the wiring harness going to the instrument cluster, two wires of the EUR wiring harness - orange and pink-blue.

9. Fix the earth wire to the bolt behind the instrument cluster.

10. The fuse block should be located under the dashboard to the left of the steering wheel.

11. Install the EUR mounting bracket under the dashboard on two M8 studs welded to the body, two M6 bolts (there are threaded holes in the body for them) and on two M8 bolts, for which to drill holes in the body (see the EUR mounting diagram and bracket).

12. Assemble the EUR with an intermediate shaft, after putting on the ground wire on the shaft.

13. Install the EUR on the bracket, fixing the intermediate shaft on the steering shaft. In this case, the bolts of the slotted forks should be in the grooves of the shafts, and the entire assembly - the intermediate shaft - the EUR should not be clamped or stretched.

14. Fasten the EUR on the bracket with two bolts and two studs at the back. Attention: install flat washers and lock washers under all nuts of the bracket and EUR.

15. Connect the pads of the wiring harness - salt and information to the EUR.

16. Install the ignition switch, 3-lever switch, steering wheel cover (after cutting it in place). steering wheel, instrument cluster and shroud.

17. Fasten the EUR decorative casing with self-tapping screws.

18. Connect the wires to the battery.

Features of installing EURU on a VAZ-21213 vehicle

1. Replace the long shaft worm steering gear with the short shaft steering gear (21213-3400010-10).

2. Replace the transfer case front cover. Install the cover with two slots (for the speedometer cable and speed sensor) 21214-3802824.

3. Install the 6-pulse speed sensor on the cover of the transfer case.

4. Connect the speed sensor to the EURU harness according to the scheme:

Speed ​​sensor, front view of the shoe (2 types)

To do this, it is necessary to stretch the wires in a corrugated tube from the EURU harness to the speed sensor under the bottom of the body through the gearbox tunnel.

5. Connect the pink-blue wire of the EURU to the green wire of the switch (connector # 6).

Features of installing EURU on a VAZ-2131 vehicle

The same as for the VAZ-21213, except for item 1 - the steering gear does not need to be changed.

Appendix 4. Mounting scheme

1. Hairpins.

2. Holes are drilled in the body for these holes. The bracket is attached to the body with M8 bolts.

3. Holes for standard studs on the body. Secure with nuts.

4. Holes for attaching the EUR to the bracket.

5. Holes for fastening the bracket with M6 bolts.

6. Holes for ignition switch wires.

7. Steering wheel.

Appendix 5. Connection diagram

Appendix 5. Certificate of Conformity

In our service center you can order.

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