Incredible ideas for the transformation and improvement of the dashboard - tuning. We beautifully highlight the dashboard of the car Do-it-yourself digital panel

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The dashboard is an essential component in any car. However, auto manufacturers don't really bother with the design of this part. Most often, they use a standard, black and white, color scheme, in which it is impossible to see the main indicators of gasoline and speed in the dark. Therefore, you should think about brighter and clearer backlighting by tuning the dashboard.

Varieties of tuning the dashboard

In order to make tuning the dashboard with your own hands, you need to know about some subtleties.

It comes in two varieties:

functional;
aesthetic.

Functional tuning is intended to replace some devices with more accurate ones. Or adding new ones to the existing ones. This type of finish provides for the addition of data on technical characteristics, as well as the general condition of the machine and all devices. In addition, the current tuning provides for the presence of a meteometer or an original watch.

Aesthetic, in turn, involves only changing the lighting and decorating the appearance of a set of devices. You can see how it will look at this link:

Requirements for the implementation of tunings

Attention! When adding new devices, it is necessary to take into account such a nuance as calibration. It implies the failure of all systems. For its absence, it is better to install all new devices on the top of the dashboard.

Thus, having fulfilled all the requirements, there is only one thing left - to prepare the necessary materials and make tuning of the instrument equipment.

Tuning stages

Tuning the dashboard for each car model is organized in the same way, with the exception of small subtleties and nuances.

Before starting work, you must prepare the entire set of tools:

pliers, screwdrivers, self-tapping screws;
sharp knife;
all wiring used in tuning4
soldering iron.

This is the main arsenal that is required for any kind of tuning. To this list are added those tools that you need when choosing one of the types of finishes.

Important! If you are going to add unusual fixtures or lighting, you should take care in advance of purchasing those materials that can help you with the location on the dashboard.

After preparing everything you need, you can proceed to the work itself.

Dismantling the dashboard

During this procedure, you must proceed with extreme caution. Dismantling the dashboard is the same everywhere.

Functional and aesthetic tuning

After completing these steps, you can proceed to the next part of the disassembly. It is necessary to disassemble the dashboard. For this:

the screws holding the shield are unscrewed;
all wires are disconnected;
the screws holding the nozzles are removed;
the buttons for recirculation and automatic alarm are disabled;
at the very end, the immobilizer is removed.

Everything is going in reverse order.

There are quite a few tuning options, so you can use either one of the options, as, for example, in this video:

or all at once.

Functional tuning

With this type of tuning, some aesthetic elements are used. First you need to understand the dashboard scale.

For this, there is no need to disassemble or take out anything. It is enough to draw a small stencil on the film, which is glued to the old indicators.

Attention! To make the indicators glow, you can use a special fluorescent paint. Or you can use regular paint.

After you figured out the scale, you can proceed to the installation of devices on the panel. To do this, disassemble the panel until the wires appear. Then the devices that you need are installed.

Aesthetic tuning

After all the devices have been installed, you can proceed to finishing the backlight. The options for such an action are very large. Everyone includes fantasy in this matter and does as he wants. Here are two examples of backlight finishes.

Option 1.

Option 2. You can replace light bulbs with LEDs. This is done like this:

The old film is cleaned or a new one is purchased. Which type to choose is up to you.
It is glued to the dashboard directly on the light bulb.
It is colored green. This is in the case of purchasing transparencies or using an old one. However, it is best to purchase ready-made, green, film.
The red tint is removed from the arrows, and the numbers themselves are painted with white varnish or paint.

There are other options as well, it all depends on your imagination and ingenuity.

Installing the dashboard

After the tuning has been completely carried out, it is necessary to reinstall the dashboard. This should be done not only carefully, but also correctly. When performing this work, it is important to make sure that all wires are connected correctly and that the devices are functioning correctly.

If all actions are performed correctly, the dashboard of your car will sparkle with new paints. At the same time, the tuning done by you will be no different from that which is done in a car service. The main difference between the two methods is that it will cost you much less money and time than with the work of specialists. And, besides, with self-finishing, you can organize a free flight of imagination.

Many car enthusiasts are not happy with the illumination of their dashboard in the evening and at night. But poor-quality lighting or its complete absence negatively affects road safety. Therefore, many craftsmen are engaged in auto-tuning with their own hands, making additional lighting for their car. And first of all, the lighting of the dashboard is done.

Very often, LEDs are used for these purposes, which have a lot of advantages and allow you to create high-quality lighting inside the car interior with your own hands. This article will tell you how you can set this type of lighting in the dashboard and the nuances that should be observed in this situation.

What is additional lighting for?

Today, car tuning is carried out not only outside, but also inside its cabin and there is no better place than the dashboard. Diodes built into the panel will achieve the following benefits:

give the dashboard a new unusual look;
high-quality highlight the important elements of the dashboard;
make additional lighting of the vehicle interior;
make the trip by car more comfortable;
improve road safety. When the dashboard is well lit, all indicators are perfectly visible on it, which allow you to correctly assess the position of the car on the road and not violate the rules of the road with your driving.

The easiest way to illuminate such an element of the car as the dashboard is to install diodes in it. The following types of LED products can be used here:

separate diodes. By using them as backlights, you can create full or decorative dashboard lighting. It is worth noting that LEDs can glow in different colors. Therefore, such LED backlighting can beautifully complement external tuning, glowing with it in the same color scheme;

Note! Additional illumination of the dashboard, created using such diodes, allows them to be embedded in almost any part of the board. As a result, the backlight will fully meet the requirements of the car owner and provide lighting where there is really a need for it.

LED Strip Light. Such a tape is very often used as a decorative lighting not only for a car, but also for home premises or street elements. It can be easily replaced with another, which will allow you to change the boring color scheme to a new one. The LED strip has a self-adhesive base, with the help of which it is easily and quickly installed by hand.

LED Strip Light

Despite the simplicity of working with LED strip, diodes are most often used to illuminate the car dashboard. This choice is associated with certain advantages of using just this type of backlight.

Why LED backlighting is preferred

At the moment, there are a variety of products on the lighting market that can be used to illuminate any brand of car.

Note! Not every car brand really needs this kind of lighting. Some manufacturers include high-quality LED backlighting in the dashboard already at the production stage. Usually this situation is typical for expensive foreign cars.

Industrial lighting of the dashboard

But in most vehicles, such additional lighting is missing or incomplete. This situation is especially relevant for old models that were made in those days when they had not yet heard about LED backlighting.
Choosing an LED type of lighting, car owners are guided by the following positive aspects of such lighting:

diodes of such a plan are small in size, which allows them to be installed anywhere on the dashboard. Moreover, they are easily massaged;
simple soldering of LEDs for their various connections to each other. Moreover, if the LED strip is being re-soldered, then this procedure is carried out according to certain rules, which are also typical for working with individual diodes;
even a small number of diodes installed on the panel can create a full-fledged type of lighting, sufficient for comfortable driving;

Pay attention! With the help of such elements, you can even make an alarm backlight.

the ability to make not only white, but also colored backlighting. Diodes can produce a beautiful and frequent glow in green, yellow, red, purple, green, or blue. At the same time, replacement with a new color is possible in the future and will not require excessive efforts from the car owner;

LED glow

This type of lighting consumes a minimum amount of electricity, which is very important for a car and its signaling, which is powered by a battery.

At the same time, the installation of diodes is not very difficult. Here you only need to correctly connect the elements of the lighting system to each other. Almost any person can handle such work with their own hands.

Features of the organization of LED backlighting

LED Light Bulb for Car

Using LED backlighting for a car, you can use diode bulbs with a standard base. In this way, you can illuminate the instrument buttons on the panel. In a situation where several devices should be illuminated at once, for high-quality lighting, an LED lamp should be used, placed in a special holder. This requires a special soldering. But you can just buy it in a store or in the market.

In addition, to illuminate the dashboard of the car and its signaling, you can use bulbs that give a narrow luminous flux. It can be obtained from an ordinary light bulb by using a special diffuser (lenses) for lighting. Thus, in the first situation, the lighting will be point, and in the second, the luminous flux will fall at a certain angle.
When organizing button illumination, you can use light sources with a directional luminous flux. But to illuminate the speedometer and alarm panel, preference should be given to bulbs that give a large angle of dispersion. Although this can already be left to the individual choice of the car owner.

How the arrow lights are organized

Very often in a car, it is precisely the illumination of the dashboard arrows that is needed.

Instrument arrow illumination

In a situation where it is necessary to install diode lighting of the arrows on the dashboard, the following manipulations must be performed:

we carry out cleaning of the paint of the arrow from three sides. The paint is cleaned from the bottom of the arrow and along its sides;
after that, the cleaned surfaces should be painted over with a clerical white stroke or white nail polish. You can also use regular white paint, but it will be a little more fiddling with it;

Note! Shading the arrow white will help increase the light effect.

Filled speedometer arrows

after that we take three LEDs. They need to be soldered together in series;
the soldered LEDs should be placed in the dashboard. In it, you first need to drill holes for installing diodes and masking wires.

After that, they are connected to a power source and your arrow will glow with the color of the LEDs selected.
Some craftsmen make the arrow backlight in such a way that it can change color depending on the change in the speedometer readings. to organize such a backlight, you need to use diodes of three different colors:

green;
Red;
blue.

These colors are standard. Remember that for each arrow you need to use three diodes in the sequence in which you want to get the glow. Thus, the luminous flux will be sufficient for high-quality illumination of the metric part of the device.

Ready arrow illumination

Usually, green is used for the minimum indicators, and red for the maximum. Diodes should be placed under each arrow in the circle of its movement.

Organization of illumination of the stove control buttons

The second most popular situation in the organization of dashboard lighting in a car is the illumination of the buttons for controlling the stove.

Foil reflector

The organization of the backlighting of the console buttons designed to control the stove is as follows:

first, remove the handles, as well as the glass from the control unit;
we make a reflector out of foil. It will need to be fixed under the removed glass;
then carefully unscrew the bottom of the console. Under it will be located a cartridge with an old light source, which must be replaced;
we replace the old light bulb with an LED;

Note! An LED strip can be installed under the bottom of the console. She, thanks to her self-adhesive base, will easily take the necessary position. In this situation, it will be connected with its own wires through the socket. The main thing here is to observe the polarity of the wires, otherwise the LED strip will not glow.

after installing the LED, we return all parts of the console to their original place in the reverse order.

Ready console lighting

The simplest way to create a highlight involves the following manipulations:

we get the button from the console;
we disassemble it into its constituent elements;
inside such a button there should be a light bulb that changes to an LED;
if necessary, you can remove the filter from the button or combine it with a new glow of the diode. As a result, you can get a new beautiful and unique shade.

As you can see, the backlight of the console, designed to control the stove in the car, is quite easy.

Combined instrument lighting

To implement this type of lighting, you need to stock up on the following materials:

double sided tape;
LED in the socket (three pieces);
foil.

In order to remove the dashboard, it is necessary to clarify the removal steps with the instructions that come with the vehicle. The algorithm of actions here is as follows:

removing the instrument combination;
carefully unscrew the speedometer cable and disconnect all available plugs;
at the top of the dashboard should be placed backlight sources - three bulbs. There will also be a green filter here. It can be removed or left;
the light bulb is replaced with LEDs and a foil diffuser is installed. We fix it with double-sided tape.

Ready dashboard lights

After that, it remains only to collect all the panel parts and install them in their original places.

Note! In any case, the organization of the backlight, you can safely experiment with the colors of the LEDs to get the most beautiful type of glow.

Conclusion

In order to qualitatively replace the dashboard lighting, you can use both individual LEDs and a whole LED strip. In this case, the illumination can be carried out both in a separate part of the console, and in its entire area. The main thing is to correctly connect the diodes and the tape, without confusing the polarity of the wires.

How to modify the dashboard design with your own hands? A little time, work, and you're done! Let's consider how you can make such tuning using the example of the Hyundai Accent car. Here is a list of what we need to get started:

small pliers;
sandpaper;
double sided tape;
screwdrivers of different sizes;
Lomond Satin photo paper, matte, 280 g.
scissors.

Stage 1. Disassembly.

We proceed to disassemble the panel. Unscrew two screws at the top. Then we disconnect the three connectors and now you can sit comfortably at the table and unscrew the devices.

Stage 2. We remove the arrows.

Use 2 screwdrivers and a hair dryer for this.

Be careful not to damage the tachometers.

Stage 3. Plastic backing processing.

We take sandpaper and sand the backing.

Stage 4. Intermediate.

As a result of your manipulations, the following should be on the table:

opaque part of the scale (1);
old scale (2);
printouts of the new outer side of the scale (3);
scale substrate (4);
tachometer (5);
arrow.

Stage 5. Printouts.

Carefully cut out the printouts with sharp scissors.

6 Stage. Fastening.

We attach a substrate to the scale. We fasten the opaque part of the scale with double-sided tape. If at temperature amplitudes the glue does not warp the paper, it can be used as well.

Here is the opaque part already glued. Photographic paper with black fill was used for its manufacture. Other opaque and thin materials can be used.

7 Stage. Collection of constructions.

Trying on the scale using the gap. The holes are marked with numbers 1 and 2. This is an adhesive tape visible through the photographic paper. This can be corrected by making a plastic backing.

We attach everything to standard screws.

Panel assembly. The calibration of the arrows is to be done on the vehicle.

Stage 8. Calibration.

We warm up the car well, in the middle position we fix the arrow of the t-ry of the cooled liquid. We do the gas release - we put the tachometer needle at idle speed. Most likely, she is standing incorrectly, she may either not move at all or move in jerks. Remove and install it again until it moves as it should! We roll out the gasoline and put the “Fuel level” arrow in the zero position until the warning light comes on.

First, we string the arrow in the “half-tank” position, after which it begins to move, at the bottom or at the top, reaching the limiter. Here it must be removed and quickly put back in place and secured "to zero". Next, we measure the speed, follow in which direction and by how much, there will be an error, after which we remove the panel and the device itself. The inner rotating part, which is at the back of the device, is tightened with a screwdriver, and then we scroll the arrow.

Such a dashboard can be assembled for any car, it is a universal device. We assembled a dashboard based on an existing one called Venator.

To create it, you will need the following components:

Arduino MEGA controller
Tablet with Androir operating system
Wi-Fi module esp8266
Power converter from 12 to 5 volts (any car charger for mobile phones can be used).

All sensors of the car are connected to the Arduino controller. In our case, it was also necessary to install a speed sensor in the gearbox instead of the speedometer drive cable. And also bring a wire into the car from the ignition switch so that the controller can display the engine speed (this had to be done, since the tachometer was not installed in the OKE).

Scheme

The sensors must be connected to the controller as follows:

Sketch (firmware) for the Arduino Mega controller

You can download the finished sketch in the file by.

unsigned long micros_sp = 0, micros_th = 0;
volatile int tz;
volatile int sz;
volatile int sp; // speedometer pulses
volatile int th; // tachometer pulses
int analogInput; // array of analog values
int digitalInput; // array of digital values
String resultString = ""; //line
int i; // cycle counter

void setup () (
for (i = 0; i<=14; i++){ //обнуление массива аналоговых значений
digitalInput [i] = 0;
}
for (i = 0; i<=28; i++){ //обнуление массива цифровых значений
analogInput [i] = 0;
}
Serial.begin (115200);
Serial2.begin (115200); // com port initialization
attachInterrupt (0, speedometr, RISING); // interrupt the speedometer on the edges of the pulse
attachInterrupt (1, tahometr, RISING); // interrupt the tachometer on the pulse edges
}
//********************************************************************
void loop () (
analogInput = analogRead (0); // B13 voltage
analogInput = analogRead (1); // B24 fuel
analogInput = analogRead (2); // B21 cooling temperature
analogInput = analogRead (8); //
analogInput = analogRead (7); //
analogInput = analogRead (3); //
analogInput = analogRead (4); //
analogInput = analogRead (9); //
analogInput = analogRead (10); //
analogInput = analogRead (11); //
analogInput = analogRead (12); //
analogInput = analogRead (13); //
analogInput = analogRead (14); //
analogInput = analogRead (15); //
analogInput = analogRead (6); //

DigitalInput = digitalRead (4); // ignition
// digitalInput = digitalRead (5); //
//********************************************************************
digitalInput = digitalRead (53) + //
digitalRead (51) * 2; //
//********************************************************************
digitalInput = digitalRead (5) + // A14 left turn
digitalRead (6) * 2; // A13 right turn
//********************************************************************
digitalInput = digitalRead (8) + // A18 near
digitalRead (9) * 2; // A17 far
//********************************************************************
digitalInput = digitalRead (10) + // A16 ptf front
digitalRead (11) * 2; // A15 PTF rear
//********************************************************************
digitalInput = digitalRead (23); // A23 check
digitalInput =! digitalRead (21); // B 9 - level tzh
digitalInput =! digitalRead (31); // A19 - handbrake
digitalInput = digitalRead (25); // B 3 pad wear
digitalInput =! digitalRead (45); // B10 - fuel lamp
digitalInput =! digitalRead (51); // B12 - standby level
digitalInput =! digitalRead (47); // A24 - oil pressure
digitalInput = digitalRead (27); // A20 fan lamp
digitalInput =! digitalRead (29); // A23 charging
digitalInput = digitalRead (33); // A 5 abs
digitalInput = digitalRead (35); // A20 srs
digitalInput = digitalRead (37); // A 3 belt
digitalInput = digitalRead (39); // B 1 doors
digitalInput = 0; // digitalRead (22); // B 2 p
digitalInput = 0; // digitalRead (24); // A22 r
digitalInput = 0; // digitalRead (26); // A 7 n
digitalInput = 0; // digitalRead (28); // B 6 d
digitalInput = 0; // digitalRead (30); // B 5 s
digitalInput = digitalRead (41); // A 8 reserve
digitalInput = 0; // digitalRead (32); // A 9 reserve
digitalInput = digitalRead (43); // A10 reserve
digitalInput = 0; // digitalRead (34); // A11 reserve
digitalInput = digitalRead (49); // B 4 reserve

ResultString = String (resultString + sp);

resultString = String (resultString + th * 10);
resultString = String (resultString + ",");
for (i = 0; i<=14; i++){ //передаем аналоговые данные из массива в COM-port
resultString = String (resultString + analogInput [i]);
resultString = String (resultString + ",");
}
for (i = 0; i<=28; i++){ //передаем цифровые данные из массива в COM-port
resultString = String (resultString + digitalInput [i]);
}
resultString = String (resultString + ": \ n");
// Serial2.print (resultString);
Serial.print (resultString);
resultString = String ("");
tz = tz - 1;
sz = sz - 1;
if (tz == 0) (th = 0;)
if (sz == 0) (sp = 0;)
delay (50);
}
//********************************************************************
void speedometr () (// measure the frequency at the speedometer input by interruption
sp = (900000.0 / (micros () - micros_sp));
micros_sp = micros ();
sz = 10;
}
//********************************************************************
void tahometr () (// measure the frequency at the tachometer input by interruption
th = (2900000.0 / (micros () - micros_th));
micros_th = micros ();
tz = 10;
}

Setting up the ESP-8266

Before connecting the ESP8266 Module to the circuit, it must be flashed and configured in the Tcp2uart transparent bridge mode (tcp to uart) so that the received data from the com port is transmitted to the tablet via Wi-Fi.

It is better to flash through a USB-UART converter, which must have a 3.3V source output to power the ESP8266. Also, this source must provide the required current of at least 200mA.

The CPIO0 contact determines the mode of operation of the module. When the contact is not connected, the module operates normally and executes AT commands. When the contact is closed to ground, the module is put into the firmware update mode. Switching the module to the firmware mode requires that the CPIO0 pin be connected to ground when the module is powered up. If you close the contact while the module is running, the module will not be switched to the firmware update mode. Now you need to start Write the COM port of your converter and select the firmware fullflash_tcp2uart.bin () itself.
Click Download and wait until the completion process reaches 99%. At this it will stop and you can turn off the module. Next, you need to supply power to the ESP8266, or immediately connect it to the Arduino controller according to the diagram. After appearing on the power module, start the search for wifi networks on your computer. The ESP8266 network should appear. Connect to it. After that, you need to go to the address http://192.168.4.1/fsupload in the browser (Enter the data Name: ESP8266 Password: 0123456789) and load the WEBFiles.bin file into the device (it is in the archive with the firmware). It remains to configure the Tcp-Uart bridge. To do this, go to http://192.168.4.1 in your browser. Go to the TCP-UART Settings tab and set the settings as in the screenshot below:

Ready! Now, when the ESP-8266 module is connected to the arduino, it works in the transparent bridge mode and transmits the necessary data via Wi-Fi.

Tablet Dashboard Application

We thank the user Frud of the Drive2 portal for the published version of the application and the description of the application installation method:

After installation, the application will already work. In order to enable its autoload, you need to do the following:

After installation, you need to go to the Android settings, in the "Home screen" section, select the VenatorLite2 dashboard application. A very important point! You cannot exit the Android settings from the dashboard application to return to the standard Launcher. Before installing the application instead of Launcher, you need to make sure that you can go to the settings from the status bar. Otherwise, returning the standard launcher will be problematic.

NOTE! Before installing startup, it is advisable to configure and debug the application.

After starting the application, you need to go to the settings (click on the gear icon in the upper right). Here you need to specify the ip-address and port (In our example, these values are: address 192.168.4.1 and port 3333).

It remains to connect and test everything. If everything is done correctly, then when the device is turned on and the "plus" is applied to the 4th pin of the arduino, the dashboard will turn on.

And here is what the dashboard installed in the OKU looks like:

We wish you success in the implementation of this project

Consider the main options for tuning dashboard elements. Since each car make has its own - special layout, you may not be able to accurately copy the ideas below to your car, but in any case, the sequence of actions will be the same.

1. Padding of the device mask
Fitting the dashboard visor is not an easy task, the complex shape of the part does not allow you to drag the mask without a seam.
The visor of the dashboard can be tightened with Alcantara, artificial or natural leather. The material and the neat seam complement the panel beautifully.
// don't try to drag the panel with the carpet. It turns out ugly
In the case when the part is strongly curved, then you cannot do without a pattern and seams.
First you need to dismantle the dashboard mask by unscrewing 2 bolts at the top and 2 at the bottom. Now you can remove the pattern, marking the places where the seams will pass. Better to add 1 cm for each seam. For a pattern, thick Whatman paper or paper tape is perfect.

We transfer the template we received to the material and sew the pieces using a sewing machine. It is recommended to use an American fold-over seam. After that, it remains only to glue the resulting cover on the visor.

2. Starting the engine from the button
The engine start button is an ignition method that smoothly transitions from luxury cars to the middle segment. An increasing number of modern cars are getting rid of the old engine starting system.

There are several options (schemes) for installing a button to start the engine. They differ in several nuances:

1. A key to start the engine through the button is used (the key turns on the ignition, the button starts the engine)
2. The key to start the engine through the button is not used (pressing the button completely replaces the key)
3. Through the button, you can separately turn on the ignition (pressed the button - the ignition turned on, pressed the button and the brake pedal - started the engine)

Let's try to show the main points of connecting the engine start button.
1. Start the engine with the button (with the ignition key)
In our opinion, this method is the simplest.

The button does not work when the engine is running, that is, the starter does not spin, but starts working after the engine is turned off and the ignition is turned on with the key.
We take the ignition relay with a block of wires. (4 wires in total, 2 high-current circuit (yellow contacts on the relay itself) and 2 low-current circuit (white contacts).
We throw the wire of the high-current circuit on contact 15 of the ignition switch, and the second to contact 30 of the same lock (one is pink, and the second is red).

We throw one wire of the low-current circuit to - ground, and the second to the green wire on it + appears during ignition and we interrupt the wire from the relay to the green wire with our button.

2. Start the engine with the button (without the ignition key)
The circuit uses a rear fog lamp relay. You can buy it or assemble it yourself.

We need a large wire with a terminal connected to the pink one.
There are also thin wires: we insulate the red and blue with a strip, and we throw the gray one for ignition or connect it to the red one, otherwise the BSK will not work. Any diode will do.
It is convenient to connect the button illumination and relay power supply to the alarm. If the engine stalls, then press the button - the ignition will turn off, press the button again - the engine will start.

3. Button to start the engine with the pedal depressed.
They took the circuit with the rear fog lamp relay as a basis and modified it.
We use the latching button, which we connect to contacts 87 and 86 of the ignition relay. She can turn on the ignition. It is more correct to make a separate ignition on through the pedal.
Typically, to start the engine, use the brake pedal to turn on the ignition via a button.
Alternatively, you can still use not a pedal, but a handbrake, because he also has a limit switch.
To start the engine from the button via the brake pedal, you need to:
86 starter relay connect to brake lights, or use a relay (as it is more convenient to whom)

As a start button for the motor, you can use:
Buttons of domestic cars (for example, the button for opening the trunk of the VAZ 2110 (without fixation)
Universal buttons (with and without latching)
Buttons from foreign cars (for example, BMW)
Modify the button (apply the drawing yourself)

3. Frame for the navigator
One of the best places where you can build a navigator in many cars is the central air duct, but for this it needs to be modified.

You can install the monitor in the deflector up to 7 ", but here we will consider the placement of the XPX-PM977 navigator in 5".
First, remove the deflector. After that, we cut out the central partition and the sides of the back side so that the monitor is recessed and parallel to the front surface of the deflector. We use the cover of the navigator as the base of the frame. To eliminate voids, we use grids from the columns.

We use masking tape for gluing and sculpt the frame with epoxy. After drying, remove and glue the frame using glue

We apply putty and wait until it hardens. Then we remove the excess with fine-grained emery paper, after which we repeat this way until an even shape is obtained

It remains only to paint the frame. We use aerosol paint, apply it in several layers.

We block the air flow from the navigator using a sheet of celluloid and tape. We snap the deflector.

By analogy, you can build a tablet into the panel, and, if desired, also make it removable.

For the meshes (which run along the edges of the navigator), you can put a diode backlight with an LED strip. It would look very nice.
.

4. Illumination of the instrument panel
We decided to use 3 colors for illumination at once.
Instrument scales - highlight in blue.
Numbers - in white
Red zones - respectively in red.
First, remove the instrument cluster. Then you need to carefully remove the arrows. Next, carefully remove the backing of the numbers. It is made of thick plastic tape. The backing is glued. With careful, competent effort, it can be removed well.
You should have something like this:

Next, you need to lay the backing on the paper, face down. A light filter is applied to its back. Which we wash with a cotton swab dipped in alcohol. After that, we clean the dusting used to fix the light filter.
You should get the following

Now you can start cutting out the base where the LEDs will be soldered. You can use textolite, if not, then you can use thick cardboard. In it we cut out the base for the diodes.

We use different colors of LEDs, so it is necessary to make a light sampling (otherwise the colors will mix). In the center of the base we make a slot to create a light intake between the two diode scales. Cut a line from the same cardboard in size and height and insert it into the slot made between the two rows of diodes.

Now you need to solder the LEDs in parallel:

For the arrows, we solder two red LEDs at the base and point their lenses up.
We highlight all other scales and numbers in the same way.

We solder + and - to the tracks from the standard bulbs and, observing the polarity, we solder the wiring.
Now you need to install the arrows. We carefully attach them to the motor drives, while it is not worth planting them deeply, otherwise the arrows will cling to the scales. Then we collect everything in the reverse order and connect.

An interesting modification of such a backlight is possible. You can take RGB three-crystal diodes (they are brighter and more reliable than conventional ones + their glow can be controlled) and install them by connecting
Let's explain the difference! In this case, by dimming, the backlight will shine in the same way (only much brighter), but if desired, by pressing a button on the remote control, you can change the color of the instrument illumination, and even more - turn it on in light music mode!
You can also add illumination of the feet of the front passengers by connecting it to the same controller. To do this, we recommend using It turns out that the illumination of the panel and the legs glows in the same color or simultaneously in the light and music mode.

5. Making a rack for additional devices

A radical and very interesting solution - podiums for additional devices in the window rack.
First, we measure the convenient distance between the sensors, inside the cabin. We remove the plastic rack, clean it with sandpaper so that the glue holds better.

Cups may not be included with the devices, then they can be made from a plastic pipe of the required diameter. Now you need to temporarily fix the resulting podiums at the desired angle. After that, we try on the devices again and cut holes in the rack to deepen them sufficiently. At this stage, the most important thing is to see if they are conveniently located.

Now, for everything to be beautiful, you need to make a smooth descent from the device to the rack. This can be done in different ways.
In one embodiment, you can use pieces of plastic pipe or cardboard. Cut out small molds and glue them so that you get a smooth descent from the sensor to the rack.
Alternatively, any fabric that needs to be wrapped around our blanks will work. We fix the fabric with clamps so that it does not slip.
We put fiberglass on top of the cardboard, pipe or fabric and then apply epoxy glue. It is also important here to apply fiberglass to the rack itself in order to securely fix the instrument slots. After that, we are waiting for our structure to dry.
Next, we cut off excess fiberglass and clean the structure. During the cleaning process, you cannot work without a respirator - it is harmful! Then, using fiberglass putty, we create the smooth shapes we need. We do this until we get a flat surface. The next layer will be already putty for plastic. Apply, wait until dry, clean. We repeat this until the surface is as smooth as possible.

All that remains is to create an attractive look for our catwalks. To do this, we use either a primer followed by painting, or a constriction with material (a more complex option). Finally, we insert the devices and connect them.

A very interesting addition would be to install a neon ring in the gap between the edges of the device and the end of the cup, or, alternatively, from the inside along the visor of the device, if there is one. It would be very futuristic! This would take about