Perhaps this information will be useful. By the way, this problem is familiar not only to Toyota car owners. So.

Everything is fine with the rods, but the door does not respond to the central locking. It feels like the electric drive doesn't have enough power. In my case it was exactly like that.
The electric door lock motor is to blame. This motor is located in the plastic housing of the electric drive mechanism. The body is collapsible. Opens with a wide flat screwdriver. Now we take out the motor itself and disassemble it. Now you can see that one contact is connected directly, and the second through a small plate. This plate is a self-resetting fuse. The fact is that a fairly strong spring is installed in the electric drive mechanism, which returns the lock tongue to its original position. And the motor must be powerful enough to compress it. In order, apparently, to prevent the motor from burning out, this fuse is installed. It works as follows: when current passes through it, it heats up and increases resistance. As it cools down, the resistance is restored. Heating and cooling occurs in less than a second. Therefore, if you test the motor by simply connecting 12V to it, you will see how it spins with a noticeable slowdown. Over time, this fuse (maybe from overheating, maybe from something else) loses its recovery properties and greatly increases the resistance. Therefore, when passing the test described above, you can see how sluggishly the motor with the damaged fuse rotates and after one and a half seconds it stops altogether. Naturally, this force is not enough to overcome the force of the spring to open/close the door lock. So, the direct culprit has been discovered.
However, replacing this fuse is not a very easy task (I never succeeded). The variety of such fuses, depending on the characteristics, is very large, and their presence in radio and electrical goods is extremely negligible. I also couldn’t replace the entire motor - it’s a different shape and doesn’t fit into the body (I really didn’t want to cut the body), it dangles and falls off, it’s not powerful enough, etc. and so on. It is not difficult to change the entire mechanism. The question price on the existential is 1500 rubles. But this method has been postponed as the most extreme and expensive.
Having once again tested the pulse during which current is supplied to the electric drive of the lock when the central lock is activated, and it also lasts less than a second, it was decided that nothing would happen to this motor in a split second (the main thing is to open and close the locks without fanaticism). After consulting with electronics engineers, the answer was received that nothing bad would happen with the electronic control of the central locking in such a short period of time. So, as you understand, it was decided to short-circuit the second contact. Those. the plate (self-resetting fuse) was removed, wrapped in foil and inserted into place. The tests showed not bad results. Not bad - because when the motor was running, a little smoke came out of it, but the motor did not heat up, and the cranking force was enough to compress the spring.
Then we carefully assemble everything, and preferably in such a way that there are no unnecessary parts left ;). It is not enough just to snap the plastic body of the mechanism into place; it needs to be glued. Otherwise, the case will crumble in the closed door, and it will be very, very difficult to open it.
Now we very carefully install the mechanism in the door, carefully monitoring all the details and rods of the mechanism (don’t forget to connect everything, tuck it in, slide it in, tighten it, etc.) That’s it! Your car is ready for full use.
Good luck on the roads of our vast homeland and thanks to the Internet for everything!
Attention: Using the tips I have posted here, you do so at your own peril and risk! I confirm that everything has been working for me for a month now, and I hope it will continue to work, ugh x 3.