What is the diagnosis of the VAZ 2114 engine. Self-diagnosis of errors in the engine control unit Lada Kalina. Diagnosis Operations

Controller lamp "CHECK ENGINE"

If malfunctions occur in the system during the operation of the car, the controller determines their presence, notifies the driver about them with the “CHECK ENGINE” lamp (Fig. 1) and stores codes in memory that indicate the nature of the malfunction and facilitate the diagnosis and repair of the fuel injection system. The controller coordinates the operation of all sensors and systems that make up the fuel injection system.

Diagnostics of the engine control system with electronic fuel injection (Injector) is carried out using a digital tester DST-2M (Fig. 2).

High-quality diagnostics can only be performed by an experienced specialist, because the desire to automate the diagnostic process and the availability of a tool not only does not guarantee success, but often exacerbates the situation.

Diagnostics includes:
Reading trouble codes
Checking the actuators of the injector
Checking the performance of sensors
Control of electronic control system data
Checking the fuel supply system
Checking ignition systems
Engine compression measurement

Based on the diagnostics of the injector, the entire range of work related to the repair of the electronic control system of the VAZ engine with distributed fuel injection is carried out. Electronic fuel injection for VAZ 2108, 2109, 2110, 2112, 2113, 2114, 2115, NIVA

Controller reprogramming

The controller is the central control device for the injector. The controller has three types of memory:

1. Random Access Memory (RAM). The random access memory is the "notebook" of the controller. The microprocessor of the controller uses it for temporary storage of measured parameters for calculations and for intermediate information. The microprocessor can enter data into it or read them out as necessary. The RAM chip is mounted on the controller PCB. This memory is volatile and requires an uninterruptible power supply to maintain. When the power supply is interrupted, the DTCs and calculated data contained in the RAM are erased.

2. Electrically programmable memory (EPROM).

3. One time programmable read only memory (PROM) (Fig. 1 Fig. 2). The PROM contains a general program that contains a sequence of operating commands and various calibration information. This information is injection, ignition, idle control data. By changing the calibration information, you can completely change the mode of operation of the injector.

As a result, for example, "sports" controller reprogramming:

Increased torque at low rpm
The maximum engine power is increased by 3-5 hp.
It is possible to increase the idle speed by 50-100 rpm
The fan switch-on temperature decreases (101-103gr.)
The average fuel consumption increases by 0.5 - 1 l per 100 km. mileage depending on driving style
Engine operation becomes softer

VAZ injector controller

The VAZ injector controller (VAZ 2108, 2109, 2110, 2111, 2112, 2113, 2114, 2115, NIVA ...) receives information from sensors, performs the necessary calculations and, based on them, controls the actuators. The device is reliable. It is afraid only of very large on-board voltage surges (generator malfunction, starter sticking on a running engine, “lighting up” another car, using a start-charger to start).
If malfunctions occur in the system during vehicle operation, the controller detects their presence, notifies the driver about them with the “CHECK ENGINE” lamp and stores codes in memory that indicate the nature of the malfunction and facilitate the diagnosis of the fuel injection system. The controller coordinates the operation of all sensors and systems that make up the fuel injection system. The controller controls the operation of the injectors and the operation of the ignition system. Depending on the type of controller, the injectors can be switched on in pairs, with the pairs of injectors switched on alternately every 180° of crankshaft rotation (alternate synchronous dual injection) or sequentially (sequential or phased injection). The ignition system uses the "idle spark" method. (The exception is 16-valve engines equipped with individual ignition coils for each candle). High voltage pulses are applied to the corresponding pair of spark plugs (1/4 or 2/3 cylinders). Sparking occurs simultaneously in the cylinder on the compression stroke (working spark) and in the cylinder on the exhaust stroke ("idle spark"). Sparking in the exhaust cylinder requires a small amount of energy. Most of the energy is used in the cylinder, which is on the compression stroke, which ensures normal sparking and good ignition of the air-fuel mixture. A similar process is repeated when the cylinders change roles.

The controller is the central control device for the injector.
The controller controls fuel delivery, energy storage time and ignition timing, idle speed, electric fuel pump, tachometer, CHECK ENGINE indicator lamp located on the instrument panel, engine cooling fan and air conditioning compressor clutch (if available), generates vehicle speed and fuel consumption signals to the trip computer, and for vehicles with a converter, the controller maintains the required air / fuel ratio - 14.7: 1 (stoichiometric composition).

DEFINED PARAMETERS:

Position of c/shaft
Frequency of rotation to/shaft
Mass air flow
t °С cool. liquids
Throttle position
Supply voltage
Vehicle speed
Turning on the air conditioner
Presence of detonation
O2 concentration in exhaust gas.

MANAGED SYSTEMS:

nozzles
Electric fuel pump
Ignition system
idle speed controller
Cooling fan
Compressor clutch.

Sensors (VAZ injector)

Any injection system (VAZ 2108, 2109, 2110, 2111, 2112, 2113, 2114, 2115, NIVA ...) includes a set of sensors to collect information about the state and mode of operation of the motor.

Mass air flow sensor (DMRV) VAZ

The mass air flow sensor (DMRV) VAZ is installed on the air filter housing. The mass air flow sensor (MAF) measures the amount of air taken in by the engine in kg/h. The device is quite reliable. The main enemy is moisture sucked together with air. The main malfunction of the mass air flow sensor (DMRV) is an overestimation of readings at low speeds by 10 - 20%. This leads to unstable operation of the engine at idle, stopping after power modes, and problems with starting are possible. An underestimation of the readings of the mass air flow sensor (DMRV) in power modes leads to the "stupidity" of the engine and an increase in fuel consumption. The typical value of air consumption at idle is 8-10 kg / h. At 3000 rpm - 28-32 kg / hour.

Throttle position sensor VAZ

The VAZ throttle position sensor is mounted on the side of the throttle pipe on the same axis as the throttle actuator. The throttle position sensor reads readings from the position of the gas pedal. The main enemies of the throttle position sensor are the sensor manufacturer and engine washers. Throttle position sensor life is completely unpredictable. Abnormalities in the operation of the throttle position sensor are manifested in increased idle speeds, in jerks and dips at low loads.

Coolant temperature sensor VAZ

The VAZ coolant temperature sensor is installed between the block head and the thermostat. The coolant temperature sensor has two contacts (unlike the single-contact temperature sensor for the instrument panel, which is nearby, do not confuse). The main functional purpose of the coolant temperature sensor is akin to "suction" on the carburetor - the colder the engine, the richer the fuel mixture. Structurally, the coolant temperature sensor is a thermistor (resistor), the resistance of which changes depending on temperature. Typical values ​​100 gr. - 177 Ohm, 25 gr. - 2796 Ohm, 0 gr. - 9420 Ohm, - 20 gr. - 28680 Ohm. Coolant temperature affects almost all engine control characteristics. The coolant temperature sensor is very reliable. The main malfunctions are a violation of the electrical contact inside the sensor, a violation of the insulation or a break in the wires near the sensor with a dangling "gas" cable. Failure of the coolant temperature sensor - turning on the fan on a cold engine, difficulty starting a hot engine, increased fuel consumption.

Knock sensor VAZ

The VAZ knock sensor is installed on the engine block between the 2nd and 3rd cylinders. There are two types of knock sensor - resonant (barrel) and broadband (tablet). Knock sensor of different types are not interchangeable. The knock sensor is a reliable element, but requires regular cleaning of the connector. The principle of operation of the knock sensor is similar to that of a piezo lighter. The stronger the blow, the greater the tension. Monitors engine knocks. In accordance with the knock sensor signal, the controller sets the ignition timing. There is detonation — later ignition. Failure or breakage of the knock sensor is manifested in the "stupidity" of the motor and increased fuel consumption.

Oxygen sensor VAZ

The VAZ oxygen sensor is installed on the exhaust pipe of the muffler. A serious, but very reliable electrochemical device. The task of the oxygen sensor is to determine the presence of oxygen residues in the exhaust gases. There is oxygen - a lean fuel mixture, no oxygen - rich. The oxygen sensor readings are used to adjust the fuel delivery. The use of leaded gasoline is strictly prohibited. The failure of the oxygen sensor leads to an increase in fuel consumption and harmful emissions.

VAZ speed sensor

The VAZ speed sensor is designed to generate impulses, the number of which per unit time is proportional to the vehicle speed. The speed sensor is mounted on the top of the gearbox. On injection VAZs, only 6-pulse speed sensors are used. The speed sensor informs the controller about the speed of the vehicle. The reliability of the speed sensor is average. Often there is oxidation of the connector and wires near the speed sensor. The failure of the speed sensor leads to a slight deterioration in driving performance (except for General Motors - the engine stalls when driving at idle).

Crankshaft position sensor VAZ

The VAZ crankshaft position sensor is designed to generate an electrical signal when the angular position of a special toothed disk mounted on the engine crankshaft changes. The crankshaft position sensor is mounted on the oil pump cover. This is the main sensor, according to the readings of which the cylinder, fuel supply time and spark are determined. Structurally, the crankshaft position sensor is a piece of magnet with a coil of thin wire. Very hardy. The crankshaft position sensor works in tandem with the crankshaft sprocket. Sensor failure - engine shutdown. In the best case, the engine speed limit is around 3500 - 5000 rpm.

Phase sensor VAZ

The VAZ phase sensor is designed to determine the angular position of the camshaft. On an 8-valve engine, it is installed at the end of the block head near the air filter. On the 16-valve - on the block head near the 1st cylinder. On 8-valve motors manufactured before about 2005, there is no phase sensor. The absence of a phase sensor means that the nozzles open in pairs-parallel mode. The presence of a sensor phase sensor - phased injection, i.e. only one injector for a particular cylinder opens. Failure of the phase sensor switches the fuel supply to a pair-parallel mode, which leads to some (up to 10%) increase in fuel consumption.

Air temperature sensor VAZ

The VAZ air temperature sensor is structurally integrated into the mass air flow sensor. The beginning of the production of the air temperature sensor is approximately 2005. Externally, the presence of an air temperature sensor can be distinguished by the number of wires coming to the air flow sensor. 5 wires - an air temperature sensor is provided, 4 - no.

Actuators injector VAZ

Any injection system (VAZ 2108, 2109, 2110, 2111, 2112, 2113, 2114, 2115, NIVA ...) includes a set of actuators to maintain the required engine operating modes.

Idling regulator VAZ

The idle speed controller VAZ is designed to control the engine crankshaft speed. The idle speed control is mounted on the throttle tube below the throttle position sensor. Regulates the air supply at idle and when starting the engine. The basis of the idle speed controller is a low-power stepper motor. The slightest dirt and it stops. The reliability of operation depends on the lubricant, which the manufacturer sometimes forgets to put, on the quality of the engine oil used, on the correct adjustment of the thermal clearances of the valves, on the condition of the crankcase ventilation system, on the spark plugs (oil enters the inlet pipe and is deposited in the form of soot on the throttle pipe). An idle control error causes the engine to run erratically or stall at idle, starting problems. The typical value of the position of the idle speed controller is 30-50 steps.

VAZ ignition module

On the 8-valve VAZ engine, the ignition module is installed on the engine block from the side of the candles, on the 16-valve VAZ engine, on top of the engine near the throttle pipe. The ignition module contains two powerful electronic keys and two ignition coils. Sparking is carried out according to the "idle spark" method, i.e. the spark is formed simultaneously in two cylinders: 1-4 and 2-3. There is a working spark in one cylinder, a "blank" spark in the other. On 16-valve 1.6-liter engines, individual ignition coils are used for each spark plug with phased control. Usually the Ignition Module fails in the first 5-10 thousand km. If during this period the ignition module has not “burned out”, then it “lives” for a long time. If the ignition module fails, the engine “troits”, twitches, and the car accelerates very badly.

Adsorber VAZ

The VAZ adsorber is designed to capture gasoline vapors from a gas tank and then burn them while the engine is running. Failure of the adsorber does not affect the driving performance of the car.

Fuel injectors VAZ

Fuel injectors VAZ are installed together with the ramp on the intake manifold. One injector per cylinder. The fuel injector doses fuel under pressure into the cylinder intake pipe at the command of the controller. Very hardy. If the fuel injectors malfunction, the engine “troit”, does not develop power.

Fan in the VAZ cooling system

The fan in the cooling system turns on at the command of the controller at a coolant temperature of 98 to 107 C, depending on the type of controller. Fan failure, mainly related to the control circuits, leads to overheating of the motor.

Main features of operation

1. It is better to refuel with 95 gasoline. Although VAZ engines work well on 92nd gasoline.

2. Taking into account the peculiarities of the operation of the fuel pump, it is impossible to allow the gas tank to be completely empty. Firstly, as soon as the pump begins to “pick up” air, the speed of its discharge turbine increases sharply, which leads to its destruction. Secondly, the pump motor may overheat, as it is cooled by gasoline, which in this case is not enough.

3. The VAZ injection engine is sensitive to the quality of candles. Most likely, this is due to the huge power of the spark: a powerful spark is more likely to find a “workaround” for itself through defects in candles and high-voltage wires. Taking into account the design features of the ignition module (see Ignition Module), the spark plug operates with a double load: there is a working and idle spark, which leads to increased wear of the spark plug. Therefore, it is recommended to change candles every 10 thousand kilometers. Be very careful when choosing the type of candle, especially supposedly imported - ask for a certificate.

4. Timing belt (timing). What would not be written in various literature, it is necessary to change the timing belt at least every 50 thousand km. run. Of course, it happens in practice that even after 40 thousand km the timing belt broke, but such cases are quite rare. There are also wonderful timing belts that do not break even after 100 thousand km, but you should not tempt fate: wonderful timing belts are very rare. And the average timing belt serves a little more than 50 km.

5. Spare parts. The purchase of spare parts, sensors and actuators for the VAZ injection system is recommended to be done very carefully. Always ask for certificates. From imported spare parts, you can only take mass air flow sensors and ignition modules. It seems that everything else was done somewhere in the basement, and it doesn’t even look like China, although it says “Germany”.

Cold start in winter.

In winter, car owners often complain that spark plugs are flooded and it is not possible to start the engine without changing them to dry ones. There are several reasons for pouring candles, but they are all solvable. Here are some practical recommendations for starting the engine in the cold season.

1. Depress the clutch. Do not load the starter and battery (battery) with additional work in the form of turning a frozen gearbox (gearbox).

2. At temperatures below -10C, it is recommended to depress the accelerator pedal approximately 1/4. Frozen automatics cannot always ensure stable operation of the engine in warm-up mode: Based on our practice, a frozen idle speed controller (see Sensors) does not always work stably. Sometimes errors occur that lead to the re-enrichment of the fuel mixture. If the gas pedal is depressed, the fuel mixture is prepared not only by the idle speed controller, but also by the throttle, which, by definition, cannot freeze - as a result, the overall quality of the mixture improves.

3. Do not crank the engine with a starter for more than 3 seconds. It is better to return the ignition key to its original state and try again. Roughly speaking, the logic of the computer in this mode is to find suitable parameters for starting the engine. However, he "does not understand" why the engine does not start and begins to "experiment", varying the basic parameters of operation. The range of parameter variation gradually increases, which again eventually leads to an over-enriched mixture and flooding of candles.

4. If the engine fails to start after 5 attempts, then, as a rule, this will no longer be possible to do until the candles are changed. Subsequent attempts to start the engine with a starter will lead to the fact that the battery will simply sit down.

5. If, in spite of everything, you still need to start the engine, then you can heat the receiver with hot water or use a spare warm temperature sensor, thereby “deceiving” the controller. You can do this in the following way:

Remove the connector from the stock temperature sensor and attach a warm replacement sensor taken out of your pocket or warmed in your hand.
Start the engine with a hanging sensor and warm up the engine by 20-30 degrees.
Restore normal state.
It can be advised to hang a resistor with a nominal value of about 20 kOhm in parallel with the temperature sensor, so as not to constantly go through the complicated procedure of replacing the sensor. However, the optimal value of the resistor must be selected experimentally.

But no artificial tricks can replace the advance preparation of the engine for winter. In order to easily start the car in winter, you need to fill in winter oil, put in new spark plugs, flush the injector, adjust CO if the system allows, and put in a good battery. Select the appropriate gasoline. Gasoline is distinguished by its composition into summer gasoline and winter gasoline. In winter gasoline, an increased content of volatile fractions, namely, they contribute to the successful start of a cold engine, since in the cold, gasoline with a low content of volatile fractions evaporates poorly, which leads to flooding of candles. You may have to change several gas stations for this.

A few notes on fuel consumption.

One of the most common complaints among car enthusiasts is increased fuel consumption compared to what is stated in the car's owner's manual, despite the fact that the engine and engine management system are in good condition. I will present my view on this problem, and you will analyze the comments below in relation to your car. I think you will be able to significantly reduce fuel consumption.

1. Measurement of fuel consumption. One of the most common and at the same time the most unsuccessful methods of measuring fuel consumption is measuring by flashing a light bulb or readings from a fuel level sensor. The design and execution of this sensor is so bad that it can show anything. Of the methods available in everyday life for measuring fuel consumption, only one is sufficiently accurate. It is necessary to fill in a full tank of gasoline in fact, that is, up to the neck, drive about 200 km and again fill in a full tank. On the odometer there will be a mileage, on the gas station column - the amount of gasoline entered, and therefore spent gasoline. Simple arithmetic (second figure / first * 100 = liters per 100km.) will give you the true consumption of gasoline, however, you need to make an allowance for underfilling at gas stations.

2. Weight is paid by fuel. For every 100 kg of additional weight, you have to spend an additional 0.5-1 liter of fuel (depending on the driving mode - “city-highway”). Therefore, to reduce fuel consumption, it can be advised to remove the excess from the trunk.

3. Roof rack. The roof rack of the car leads to an overrun of gasoline up to 1 liter per 100 km due to increased air resistance. However, at low speeds, its influence weakens.

4. Tire pressure. Reduced tire pressure leads to an increase in rolling resistance. Reducing the pressure by 0.5 bar increases fuel consumption by 10-15% depending on the quality of the rubber.

5. Characteristics of tires. The operation of winter, especially studded or "tractor" tread rubber increases fuel consumption.

6. External conditions. External driving conditions, such as traffic jams, road conditions (rough surface), turns, rain, snow, headwind, etc., also lead to increased fuel consumption.

7. Driving style. To a large extent, fuel consumption is influenced by the character and mood of the driver. During short trips or on roads full of curves, gas mileage varies by up to 30% depending on driving style. A measured ride can reduce the “thirst” of the VAZ, while a nervous, agitated or stressed driver contributes to an increase in fuel consumption. Even shoes play a role in fuel consumption: in light, comfortable shoes, you can smoothly press the accelerator pedal.

8. Warming up the engine. Many motorists warm up the engine, which not only causes unnecessary fuel consumption, but also harms the engine. At idle, an unloaded engine heats up very slowly, which in turn contributes to additional wear of the piston system, excessive fuel consumption and unnecessary environmental pollution. You should start moving immediately, if the view on the windows and mirrors allows. Keep the revs moderate and don't accelerate too fast. Turn on the interior heating after the temperature arrow starts to move. You should not immediately turn on the heating: it takes heat from a still cold engine, it will not help you, and in the engine every degree is registered.

Gasoline in the pipe

9. Tachometer readings. Driving at high speeds significantly increases gas mileage. For modern engines, 2000 crankshaft revolutions per minute is a completely normal speed when driving. Downshifting is only recommended if a sudden increase in speed is really necessary, such as when overtaking.

10. Pay attention to how often and how hard you have to brake. Usually, intense braking is preceded by intense acceleration, and this is “gasoline in the pipe”.

11. At speeds over 120 km / h, fuel consumption increases sharply due to an increase in air resistance. For example, the difference in fuel consumption at 90 and 120 km/h can be more than 20%.

In conclusion, you can pay attention to the importance of the overall condition of the engine. Candles, filters, valve clearances, compression, etc. should be normal. Think about how you drive, and I think you will have the most economical car.

Overheating of the engine and, as a result, loss of antifreeze from under the cap on the expansion tank.

In VAZ injection systems, depending on the type of controller, the switching temperature of the cooling system fan is 98 - 107 C. This is much higher than in VAZ carburetor systems. And the expansion tank and cap are the same there and there, and do not always withstand the pressure that occurs in the injection system. This is the weakest element of the system. Check the condition of the expansion tank cap. In order to avoid loss of antifreeze from under the cap of the expansion tank, it must be tightly tightened, and the valve must be in working condition! The cover should be tightened as tight as possible, and it’s not even bad to tighten it a quarter of a turn with sliding pliers. If the lid is tight, and the antifreeze is still evaporating from under it, you need to replace the lid. The level of antifreeze in the expansion tank must be strictly between the min and max marks.

Question answer

Question 1: Increased idle speed, twitching at low loads.
Answer: As a rule - wear of the throttle position sensor.

Question 2: The engine cooling fan turns on late. There is a loss of antifreeze from the expansion tank.
Answer: The cooling system works under pressure. The tightness of the system is just created by a lid with a built-in valve on the expansion tank. It is necessary to tighten the cap tightly, after checking the integrity of the valve. If the leak continues, you will most likely need to replace the cap.

Question 4: The motor runs great at high speeds, but trims at idle.
Answer: This is a characteristic sign of loss of compression in one or more cylinders.

Question 5: The engine does not start without pressing the gas pedal and immediately stalls when the pedal is released.
Answer: An error in the operation of the idle speed controller. Remove the regulator and clean the working part of the regulator with a brush in clean gasoline. If that doesn't work, you'll have to change the regulator.

Question 6: VAZ 21099 with GM injection system. The engine stalls when running in neutral.
Answer: A clear sign of a non-working speed sensor. The speed sensor will have to be changed, but first you need to check the operation of the sensor drive and the integrity of the wiring near the sensor.

Question 7: VAZ 21099. The CE light is constantly on, the on-board computer diagnoses the error "excessive engine noise".
Answer: If there are no obvious motor damage and knocks, then it is enough to adjust the thermal clearances of the valves.

Question 8: The cooling fan is constantly running, even on a cold engine.
Answer: In most cases, this is due to a broken electrical wiring near the temperature sensor.

Question 9: Do I need to warm up the engine in winter?
Answer: Modern car oils allow you not to warm the engine at idle, but immediately start moving at low engine loads. At the same time, the engine warms up much faster, candles deteriorate less, fuel is saved and other mechanisms (box, bearings, shock absorbers, etc.) are smoothly warmed up.

Question 10: What kind of gasoline is better to fill the VAZ 2109 - 92nd or 95th?
Answer: Magazine Behind the wheel did not find much difference between 92 and 95 gasoline. But according to the reviews of most of our customers, on 95 gasoline, the car drives noticeably more fun and the consumption is somewhat less.

Question 11: VAZ 2110. At times, the engine loses power dramatically, especially after traffic jams, up to a complete stop. It is enough to wait 10-20 minutes and the car is like new again.
Answer: It is necessary to check the fuel pump for performance and if it is less than 50 l / h, replace the fuel pump inlet filter (located in the gas tank).




Question 13: What is the effectiveness of flushing fluids added to gasoline (gas tank)?
Answer: These additives clean the system quite well, but they cannot replace professional flushing. The main thing is to use these additives regularly. If the car has traveled more than 30 thousand km and additives have not been used, there is a chance to get a negative result - wash off all the accumulated dirt in the tank in one gulp and deliver it to the engine. With high mileage, it is better to consult the nearest service.

Question 12: Difficulty starting the engine in winter.
Answer: In winter, you should not rely on the automatic injection system. She needs help. Squeeze out the clutch, press 1/4 of the gas pedal and only then start the engine. The starter cranking time should not exceed 3 seconds (this rule must be observed at any engine temperature). If the engine does not start, return the key back and repeat all over again. If the engine does not start the second time, switch the system to the purge mode by fully depressing the gas pedal (the clutch is always depressed). In this mode, fuel is not supplied to the engine and the starter can be turned for a little longer. Thus, you remove excess fuel from the engine. If the engine does not start, go to the mode with 1/4 gas pedal. If after that it does not start, then only changing the candles will help.

Question 14: How to evaluate the performance of candles?
Answer: In appearance, the candles should be dry (no signs of oil), the central ceramic electrode should be. light brown (red) color, spark gap 1 mm. For greater certainty, purchase a probe gun for checking candles (it costs about 50 rubles). Thus, you can evaluate the work of candles without unscrewing them.

Question 16: What is the service life of the timing belt?
Answer: The timing belt runs up to 70 thousand km with a mixed highway-city mileage. If the car is operated mainly in the city, we advise the allowable mileage to be no more than 50 thousand km (the engine runs in a traffic jam, but the odometer stops).

Question 17: How often should the injector be flushed?
Answer: In each case it is determined individually. The more relaxed the driving style, the more often. This is explained by the fact that at higher speeds the motor partially cleans itself. The worst mode for the motor (in terms of dirt accumulation) is long idling, and especially warming up at idle. We recommend flushing the injector every 20-40 thousand kilometers.

Question 19: Why does gasoline consumption increase sharply in winter?
Answer: The main reason is a constantly cold engine, which takes a huge amount of gasoline to warm up. And if the trips are short (up to 10 km), then the increase in consumption can reach 50%. The constant wheel slip and rolling resistance of loose snow is the second major addition to fuel consumption.

Question 18: Which injector flush is better - ultrasonic or chemical?
Answer: In my opinion, chemical is better (it is also cheaper). With such a flush, not only nozzles are cleaned, but also combustion chambers, valves, rings and everything else that the solvent comes into contact with. One downside, compared to ultrasonic flushing, is that the solvent cannot dissolve the sand that may be in the nozzles (but this is unlikely with a good fuel filter).

Question 20: How often do you need to change filters - fuel and air?
Answer: The fuel filter must be changed every 30 thousand km. run. The air filter, as a rule, does not withstand the mileage (30 thousand km) that is indicated on the box. I advise you to check its condition every 10 thousand km.

Question 23: VAZ 2110, the speedometer does not work.
Answer: On VAZs with electronic instrument panels, the main reason for a non-working speedometer is a breakdown of the speed sensor. As a rule, the CE light is on. Before changing the speed sensor, I advise you to carefully check the wires coming from the common harness to the sensor (about 15 cm). Rotten ones are very common.

Question 21: At times, especially in the summer, on VAZs of the 10th family, there is a smell of gasoline in the cabin.
Answer: I don’t know why, but the fuel tank ventilation tube is connected to the rear left side member, which has exits to the trunk. These are the vapors of gasoline you feel. To eliminate this shortcoming, it is necessary to remove the left rear wheel and remove the tube (blue-green plastic) from the side member and leave it in a free state behind the fender liner.

Question 22: Are resonant and broadband knock sensors interchangeable?
Answer: No. In fact, the knock sensor consists of a measuring piezoelectric element and an extraneous noise filter. In the resonant version, this filter is located in the sensor itself, and in the broadband version, in the controller (hence the name).

Question 24: What should I do if the CE (check engine) light comes on? Is it possible to move on?
Answer: The CE light indicates to you that the controller has recognized a problem with the system. The car can still be used. In this case, the driving performance of the motor may deteriorate. My advice is don't delay the renovation. Contact a car service as soon as possible.

Question 25: After hitting the bottom on a country road, the VAZ 2110 abruptly lost power. What could it be?
Answer: Most likely you hit the catalyst and its insides collapsed, turning into a good plug in the muffler. There is only one repair - replacement.

Question 26: Where is the fuel filter located on the VAZ 2111?
Answer: The fuel filter on all VAZs is located under the bottom behind the fuel tank. When changing, pay attention to the direction indicated by the arrow. The arrow should point towards the left wheel.

Flushing and cleaning the injector VAZ 2108, 2109, 2110, 2111, 2112, 2113, 2114, 2115, NIVA ...

Method 1. Filling the fuel tank with a detergent additive. Usually one bottle per tank of fuel.
The advantages of such flushing are the price of flushing (the cost of such a bottle usually does not exceed 500 rubles) and the ease of flushing the injector.
The main disadvantage is the fact that flushing will first wash off all the dirt from the tank and fuel line, and then this dirt will “clog” the fine fuel filter and possibly nozzles. Thus, the use of such washing is possible only on a regular basis (when dirt has accumulated a little more). It's just not recommended for high mileage cars. There is also a risk of buying fake or low-quality injector flushing fluid (even at a fairly high price).

Method 2. Washing on special installations. The installation allows you to exclude the fuel line and tank for the time of flushing. To do this, a special flushing liquid is poured into the installation. The unit is connected to the fuel rail, and the engine starts.
The advantage of such washing is high cleaning efficiency at a fairly low cost (the price of such washing in our service is only 1200 rubles). This flushing method can be recommended to everyone also because many flushing fluids of this class have a decoking effect.

WYNN'S INJECTION SYSTEM PURGE removes contaminant by burning off, not flushing. At the same time, the use of the WYNN’S INJECTION SYSTEM PURGE flushing agent makes it possible to make the cost of flushing affordable and, no doubt, corresponds to the optimal ratio (price / quality of flushing the injector)

During flushing, the drug cleans the intake tract, distribution line, fuel pressure regulator and pipelines from deposits formed during engine operation. In addition, the liquid has a decoking effect and relieves valves, combustion chamber, piston top and piston rings from carbon deposits.

Despite the efforts of engine manufacturers and oil companies, contaminated injectors and intake valves are increasingly becoming a problem. Electronic control devices, no matter how sophisticated, cannot take into account the contamination of parts of the fuel system. The reason is simple: pollution is different for each specific engine, and always appears at different points in time. Even on the valves, injector, combustion chamber of the same engine, pollution differs. Such an uncontrolled phenomenon cannot be programmed into the electronic control unit and cannot be measured by sensors. Fuel systems are designed to operate with clean parts and assemblies. Flushing and cleaning of the injector is required.

The consequences of such pollution:

difficult engine start
engine stops
interruptions when pressing the accelerator
unstable idle
power loss
increase in fuel consumption
increased emission of toxic exhaust gases

In most cases, the problems mentioned above are effectively solved by cleaning and flushing the injection system. The most effective cleaning method is to fill the concentrated liquid through the intake system and have the engine run on it instead of regular gasoline in a special mode. The purpose of a cleaning fluid is to remove deposits and tar that cause engine problems. We use WYNN'S solvent as a flushing liquid. WYNN”S is one of the leading injector flushing and cleaning companies.

Washing cleans:

nozzles
valves and combustion chambers
piston rings
fuel distributors
pressure regulator

Taking into account the specific conditions of our region, in particular, the quality of fuel, we recommend flushing/cleaning VAZ injectors every 20-30 thousand kilometers.

Important! Do not confuse the supply of flushing agent through the intake system with pouring cleaning "chemistry" into the tank. Firstly, pouring cleaning "additives" into the tank can lead to negative results, since all the dirt rises from the bottom of the tank, which clogs the filters and the entire system, and secondly, the effectiveness of such "additives" is an order of magnitude less than special flushing fluids for an injector requiring a special engine operation mode. better combustion of gasoline and increase in engine efficiency
detonation elimination
idle improvement
cold start improvement
compression recovery and equalization
the ability to regulate the content of carbon monoxide and hydrocarbons in the exhaust gases in accordance with established standards (if the system allows)
reduced fuel consumption
increasing the life of the injector, valves and all other parts of the fuel system
increased airflow in the intake system and better mixing of air and gasoline
the product is harmless to catalytic converters

In this article, we will tell you how easy it is to carry out independent computer diagnostics, as well as related repairs of VAZ cars (2105, 2107, 2108, 2109, 2110, 2112, 2114, 2115, Priora, Kalina).

If a check engine error has caught fire on your car or you are worried about fuel consumption, read the article, we will teach you how to identify such implicit problems.

If your engine is not pulling, there are dips, or the car twitches, the problem may also be in the car's electronics or sensors. Also, you should not chop off your shoulder and run to a car service, perhaps the problem is solved very simply, with minimal material costs. We read our article.

So, let's begin…

No car, especially a Russian-made car, is immune from malfunctions. The most frustrating thing in this situation is if the problem is not obvious, such as a faulty electronics or sensor. The first thought in such a situation is to immediately run to an auto electrician, let him solve these super complex, it would seem, problems. But! … Is it worth it to overpay that kind of money for a job that any car enthusiast can do at home, using a laptop or even using a mobile phone!?
Each injection car, without exception, has a diagnostic connector; for VAZ cars after 2004, it looks like this (see photo). Most often, the connector is located under the steering column of the car.

In order to connect a car to a laptop, you need a special adapter (see photo).

This adapter is inexpensive when compared with the cost of computer diagnostics of the engine in a car service. You can order this adapter on the website www.diagnost7.ru.

The adapter fits all Russian cars, without exception, and even some foreign-made cars.
Complete with an adapter, software for car diagnostics is supplied.

What are the possibilities of the programs? What can be done with this adapter?
Diagnostics:
Engine management system
Bosch M1.5.4 (R83), Itelma VS5.1 (R83), January 5.1 (R83),
Bosch M1.5.4 (Euro 2), Itelma VS5.1 (Euro 2), January 5.1 (Euro 2), January 7.2 (Euro 2),
Bosch M7.9.7 (Euro 2), Bosch M7.9.7 (Euro 3/4), Itelma/Avtel M73,
Bosch MP7.0 (Euro 2), Bosch MP7.0 (Euro 3), Bosch ME17.9.7 (Euro 3), Itelma M74,
Itelma M75, Itelma M74CAN, Itelma M74CAN MAP
car anti-theft system
APS6, APS6.1
Electrical package module
EP Priora, EP Kalina NORMA, EP Kalina LUX, EP Granta, Grant/Priora instrument cluster
electric power steering
Mando (Korea), KEMZ, Autoelectronics, Air unit, Sever/DAAZ
Airbags
Autoliv ACU3 (Kalina, Priora), Takata (Grant)
Anti-lock braking system
Bosch 5.3, Bosch 8.0, Bosch 8.1, Bosch 9.0, Bosch 9.0 CAN
Heater/climate (Priora, Kalina, Grant)
Wiper control unit (Priora)
automatic transmission Jatco AY-K3

By connecting to the control unit (to the brains) of your Lada. You can evaluate the health of important vehicle sensors, lambda probe (oxygen sensor), DMRV (Mass Air Flow Sensor), etc.
Video review of the operation of the k-line VAG adapter using the example of a VAZ 2110 2005. made for the site www.diagnost7.ru (here you can choose an adapter for your car):

Ask questions about the compatibility of this adapter with your car in the comments below, we will be happy to help you.

Many people believe that the diagnosis of the injection engine control system is the lot of highly qualified specialists. Meanwhile, in any modern controller (ECU - electronic control unit) there is a fairly powerful built-in self-diagnosis system (implemented at the software and hardware level), which greatly facilitates the search for possible malfunctions even for a non-professional.

The ECU is a kind of mini-computer designed to solve specialized tasks in real time. These tasks can be divided into the following categories: processing of signals from sensors, calculation of control actions according to given algorithms, control of actuators.

You can connect to the vehicle controller to read diagnostic data using a diagnostic tester (separately purchased device) or a computer with a special program installed. This article will discuss the diagnostics of the Bosh M7.9.7 ECU (installed on the author's Kalina; later controllers are diagnosed in the same way) using the free KWP_D program, which can be downloaded on the Web.

In addition to the program, you need to purchase the so-called K-line diagnostic adapter (VAG-COM USB KKL adapter) that supports the KWP2000 protocol (also known as OBD-II) - the adapter is designed to transfer data from the car to the computer's USB port. The KWP2000 protocol, also known as OBD-II, gave its name to the diagnostic connector, which is located under the cover next to the gear lever, and to which you will need to connect the adapter. Of the entire lineup of AvtoVAZ, only in the Lada Kalina is it located so conveniently. The rest of the car owners have to suffer with its connection.

After installing the driver from the software package that comes with the adapter, a COM port will appear in the system, the number of which must be redefined to 1-4 (1, 2, 3 or 4 - these are the port numbers that KWP_D works with). We connect the diagnostic connector, turn on the ignition and start the program. After a short pause, the system displays a message that the connection is established - you can start diagnosing.

Each engine has so-called typical parameters - basic technical characteristics that describe the normal operation of the engine, which are taken for comparison with the values ​​​​measured during the diagnostic process. If we draw an analogy, this is, for example, the body temperature of a healthy person (typical parameter 36.6 °C). Below, the diagnostic sequence will be considered using the example of an eight-valve engine with a volume of 1.6 liters. All measurements will be carried out on a running engine in idle mode.

The first thing you should pay attention to is the DTC parameter (presence of stored errors):

If there are errors, go to the "Codes" tab and look at the error number along with the decryption. All kinds of error codes and explanations for them are easy to find on the Internet. If there are no errors, this does not mean that everything is in order with the engine. For example, at high idle speeds, the ECU can perceive a signal from a faulty TPS sensor (throttle position sensor) as the gas pedal pressed by the driver, and not issue any error.

Let's return to the typical parameters. The most important of them are not so many:

UACC- battery voltage - 13.9V - 14.5V. To check, it is necessary to turn on all powerful energy consumers (high beam, heated rear window, heated seats, and so on). A lower voltage indicates the need for a separate check of the electrical circuits.

THR- Throttle position. At idle 0%. The throttle position sensor is responsible for this parameter. Usually, “jerks and dips” when driving, as well as increased idle speed, indicate its malfunction. We check this parameter with the engine not running (but with the ignition on). Gently press the gas pedal, watching the position readings, which should also gradually increase to 85–90%. Why not 100? Because 90. So laid down by the manufacturers. If everything matches, the sensor is OK.

FREQ- the frequency of rotation of the crankshaft. Will change from 800 to 840 rpm. The signal is taken from the crankshaft position sensor (DPKV). If the engine starts, then this sensor is OK. He is the only one with a malfunction of which the engine cannot be started.

AIR- mass air flow. Typically 10 to 12 kg/h at idle. It is taken from the most important sensor - mass air flow (DMRV). Unfortunately, its real verification is impossible without the appropriate equipment. Although car services are very fond of importantly measuring the voltage on the sensor with an ordinary multimeter and immediately make a verdict, basing their decision on a discrepancy in hundredths of a volt (and they will immediately offer to buy a new one from them for 2500–3500 rubles). So let's do it simply. We press the foot on the gas pedal so that the speed jumps to 4000-5000 rpm. The air flow should also rise sharply to 200-250 kg / h, and a serviceable sensor should give you these numbers.

UOZ- ignition timing. Will change from 6 to 15 degrees. The advance angle is calculated by the ECU based on the readings of many sensors, even temperature. There is no separate advance angle sensor. So let's move on.

INJ is the duration of the injection pulse. 3–5 ms at idle. This is the time each injector opens to inject fuel into the cylinder. If the reading is significantly high, the injectors may be clogged and require flushing, or the fuel pressure is low due to a clogged fuel filter or a faulty pump. Truly injectors can only be tested on a special stand. For an indirect check, sharply press the gas pedal. The injection time should also jump up to 15–20 ms. For the time being, we confine ourselves to this procedure.

FSM- the number of steps of the idle speed controller (IAC). Often it is called an idle sensor, although it has nothing to do with the family of sensors and is a stepper motor with a cone-shaped “plug” mounted on the shaft, which closes the air supply channel bypassing the throttle, thereby adjusting idle. At idle, this parameter can be in the range of 40–60 steps. When you press the gas pedal - increase to 150 - 180.

ALAM1– tension on the sensor of oxygen to the catalyst. When the engine is warm, it should change from 0.008 to 0.7V and vice versa, which indicates a properly functioning feedback.

LUMS_W- uneven rotation of the crankshaft. If more than 4 rpm, then there are misfires in the cylinders. An occasion to check candles and high-voltage wires.

QT- Estimated fuel consumption. At idle - 0.6–0.9 l / h. Of course, for a complete diagnosis, it is desirable to check the pressure in the fuel rail, the breakdown voltage in the spark plugs, look at the compression in the cylinders, and it won’t hurt to find out the CO. But all this requires expensive equipment and even more experience.

In a word, this is how relatively easy you can independently check the serviceability of your Kalina. Forward!

The presence of an on-board computer on a car allows you to identify faults in time, take appropriate measures before the breakdown becomes serious and expensive to fix.

The main thing here is to be able to correctly read error codes when diagnosing a VAZ 2114. Not everyone understands what exactly the car points to, issuing certain designations. Therefore, today we will try to talk about the most common error codes, and note what each of them means.

Self-diagnosis

We note right away that the result of do-it-yourself diagnostics in the conditions of your own garage and at specialized car services is somewhat different. Service stations have at their disposal all the necessary equipment, with which the maximum number of error codes from the on-board computer of your car is calculated.

Self-diagnosis with your own hands will achieve a certain positive result. But alas, it is possible to detect all errors in extremely rare cases.

The nuances of self-diagnosis

Indications during self-diagnosis and contacting specialized service stations will be different, error codes are also displayed differently. Therefore, today we will consider two options.

It is not at all necessary to use the on-board computer to diagnose problems with the machine. Not all owners of the VAZ 2114 know about this method, so we will definitely tell you about it.

It consists in the following steps.

1. Sit in the driver's seat and hold down the odometer button.
2. Then turn the ignition key to the first position.
3. Release the odometer button. After that, the arrows will start running.
4. Press the button again and turn it off. This will allow you to see which firmware version is used in your case.
5. Press and release the button a third time. So you will see codes indicating the presence of certain errors in the operation of the car.

Since this is not specialized equipment, the codes will be presented in this case in the form of two-digit designations, not four-digit ones.

Let's now consider the most popular errors that occur with such diagnostics, and see what code means. Even without an on-board computer, you can detect malfunctions on the VAZ 2114 by odometer codes.

Let's take a look at them in the table.

It is important to take into account the fact that errors can add up. For example, if your car has malfunctions indicated by codes 4 and 1, the odometer will show the number 5.

Plus, all fault codes will be stored in memory until you manually reset them yourself. To do this, disconnect the terminals from the battery, while keeping the ignition on, wait a few seconds and reconnect. Do not forget to do this, especially if you are going to go to the service station for diagnostics. They will find these errors and will fix them, although in fact you have already done everything yourself. Pay extra money? No, it's not worth it.

On-board computer codes and their meaning

Now let's talk about common error codes that can be identified by diagnosing the on-board computer of your VAZ 2114. It should be borne in mind that we are talking about electronics, which can also sometimes work incorrectly. But, as practice shows, in the vast majority of cases, error codes on the on-board computer correspond to real problems on the car.

It takes an incredibly long time to study each mistake. Therefore, in this table we have collected the most common ones that the owners of the VAZ 2114 meet regularly.

Do-it-yourself diagnostics of the VAZ 2114 and 2115 is available to each driver. It's easy enough to learn. Moreover, such a skill can be needed at any time. Engine errors can occur regularly. This may be due, for example, to low-quality fuel. You need to make sure of this. At the same time, visiting the service for the purpose of diagnostics is expensive and time-consuming. In this regard, it is a good idea to learn how to diagnose problems and do it at any convenient time. It will also significantly speed up the troubleshooting process. In any case, the ability to correctly and quickly diagnose your car is a very useful skill. Many drivers find this very difficult, and do not even try to carry out such work on their own. But really, anyone can do it...

Of course, in this article there will be general rules of action, but with the help of them you will be able to examine the entire car.

fixtures

Do-it-yourself diagnostics of VAZ 2114 and 2115 is done with a minimum of devices.

To carry out the work you will need:
Laptop;

Adapter - cable

With it, the laptop is connected via USB to the diagnostic connector;

Diagnostic software

The power of the laptop is not important. You can use the simplest one. The adapter can be taken universal for VAZs. Connectors are the same on all models. The program can be downloaded independently. Now on the Internet you can find excellent free diagnostic programs.
If you want to perform additional diagnostic work, then you will need a compression tester and a multimeter. So you can assess the condition of the car in more detail.

Additional work

For a more detailed diagnosis, inspect the car for body damage. Be sure to check the level of all technical fluids. Inspect the suspension and steering for play. Necessarily . Its values ​​should range from 9.5 to 11 atmospheres.

In this case, the readings of all cylinders should be approximately the same. The significant difference between them serves as the basis for a closer look at the motor. Also needed. The voltage should be about 12.7 - 13.5 V (it happens in different ways). Of the additional checks, it will be useful to check the valve adjustment. Clamping one or more valves will give an engine power error. In order not to dig the injector in vain, it is better to check the condition of the valves in advance. Check the high voltages (high voltage coils) as well.

Diagnostics

After carrying out all additional work, you can go directly to the diagnosis using a diagnostic scanner. In practice, it is easier to use a laptop with a diagnostic program installed instead. Before starting work, turn on the ignition. All work on assessing the condition of the motor is carried out with the ignition on.
Attention! The engine must not be started!
We connect to the connector and run the diagnostic program. Depending on its interface, you will first see either graphs with numbers, or a list of indicators, again with numbers. From all this, we can draw primary conclusions about the operation of the motor. Further "throws out" the list of the found out errors. To decrypt them, you will have to look into a text file (usually it is downloaded along with the program). It lists all the errors that appear during the operation of the engine.

Having deciphered the errors, we proceed to eliminate them. Start troubleshooting by checking the sensor. For example, the program showed a low-quality mixture code. First, check the operation of the sensor itself. It's likely that it doesn't work. Its refusal may well cause an error. The same can be said for all mistakes. For a more accurate diagnosis, in many cases, additional studies will have to be carried out. Most often, the pressure in the cylinders is checked.
After eliminating all faults, be sure to check the correctness of the work. Do not forget that the error code is always stored in the memory of the microcontroller. Therefore, the old indicators should be reset. To do this, turn off the ignition, turn off the diagnostic equipment. Reset is done by turning off the microcontroller. To do this, simply remove one terminal from the battery. After connecting it back, turn on the ignition, connect the laptop and re-diagnose. If you did everything right, the errors should disappear.

Conclusion

Malfunctions can happen to any car. This problem is familiar to every motorist. In this regard, do-it-yourself diagnostics of the VAZ 2114 and 2115 turns out to be a way out for the owner of the problem car. To carry out diagnostic work, you will have to prepare in advance and invest in some equipment. It is also desirable to study the basic requirements for diagnostics. This will help you make it as accurate as possible.