DIY RC buggy is real !!! Homemade Chassis DIY RC Models

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With your own hands - for many, this phrase is associated primarily with a jigsaw for metal, a soldering iron and other hand-made tools. It is really possible to make your own model from absolute scratch - grinding every detail yourself - but it is a rather complicated, time-consuming and very demanding process on your own skills. Therefore, now we will talk about a simpler and more accessible option: how to collect radio-controlled car at home.

How it works?

Modern radio-controlled models can be divided into two large groups:

  • RTR. Fully ready-to-use machines,. That is, took the model out of the box, put the battery in - and off you go to the races;
  • Kit. Delivery option for advanced users: instead of the assembled machine, a set of spare parts comes, to which you add your own - custom - spare parts, eventually assembling the model of your dreams yourself.

Note : the option in which you buy all spare parts separately is not much different from. You just do not use ready-made kits, but, nevertheless, you use factory spare parts.

Why do you need a DIY RC model at all? Exactly the same as any custom: to stand out in the crowd, to make your car unique. Moreover, assembly from ready-made parts is less demanding on skill than “working with a file”.

What parts do you need?

As a rule, if you have chosen a Kit, then only the chassis and case are included in its package. Additionally, you will need ( we are considering an option with an electric machine):

  • Engine;
  • Radio equipment: control panel, receiver, telemetry;
  • Wheels;
  • Battery;
  • Discs, inserts, etc.

Ultimately, it all depends on the specific kit for assembling a radio-controlled model of a car with your own hands: some, for example, do not have a body, and it is purchased separately.

Is it difficult to build a Kit?

It is at the stage of assembling Kit'a that difficulties usually arise: the parts are numbered, they come with detailed instructions - do everything carefully, and there will be no problems. Difficulties most often arise when combining the chassis with the rest of the components, so we advise again: before buying an engine and other spare parts attentively study the selected Kit and its characteristics. An excellent choice would be to read thematic forums: surely someone has already worked with this Kit - and, most likely, this someone will willingly share their experience.

Plastic or Aluminum?

The answer to this question largely depends on which brand we are talking about, but more on that below. If we compare "in a vacuum" - and good plastic with good aluminum - the picture looks like this:

  • Plastic: lighter, better absorbing impact, regains its shape after collisions. But, at the same time, with too strong a blow, the plastic cracks and breaks, it will be almost impossible to repair it - a part for replacement. In addition, over time, the seats of the shafts and bearings loosen on plastic parts, which causes backlash - again you have to change the part;
  • Aluminum... It is repairable and practically does not deform over time, but good aluminum costs more than good plastic. Bad aluminum is usually quite fragile and literally crumbles at a level of stress that high-quality plastic will not even notice. And it costs about the same.

Parts manufacturers

There are three most interesting brands:

  • RPM. The best plastic on the market. Perfect quality, high strength, exceptional durability - what you need to make an indestructible rc model with your own hands. The brand has only two drawbacks: the high price and the obvious imprisonment for American cars, like, most likely, RPM spare parts cannot be supplied to the "Chinese";
  • Integy. Aluminum parts, good balance between price and quality. If you still prefer metal to plastic, you may well think about choosing this brand. Well, yes: aluminum looks great!
  • Pro-Line... Another great - and quite versatile - brand. The best choice if you are going to work with non-American Kit. Among the advantages of the brand: 5 years on the market, a bunch of awards, a very wide range and an acceptable pricing policy.

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General conclusions on do-it-yourself typewriters

If you follow the instructions carefully and take your time, there is nothing prohibitively difficult in assembling an RC model yourself. The main thing is to use high-quality components from a well-known brand, they fall into place without problems. Well, we recommend starting with Kit'a simpler, and then, having received the first experience, raise the bar of custom.

Greetings!

There are a lot of various radio-controlled (RC) equipment in the world, from very simple children's cars on the control panel to huge aircraft models reaching the size of a car. In this article, I want to talk about a part of the RC world called auto modeling, about what classes of models there are, what categories they are divided into, where to start, and so on.

Details under the cut. Beware, a lot of traffic.

Model types

Monsters
The most popular class of equipment for entertainment.
It is a model with high ground clearance, huge wheels, high center of gravity, and therefore very unstable.
Able to overcome any type of surface, ideal for jumping from trampolines, slides and just for fun in the country.

Buggy
As a rule, four-wheel drive. They are able to overcome any type of surface, while driving on densely packed soil will be the most optimal.
It is this class that is most widely represented in competitions.

Short Course
It is a pickup truck with a short wheelbase and rear wheel drive.
Has a great similarity (copy number) with real cars. Designed for the same surface as the buggy, that is, rolled soil.

Truggy
Something between a buggy and a monster.
It is characterized by the presence of large, widely spaced wheels and low ground clearance. Accordingly, in this class, you can perfectly overcome a variety of obstacles, jumps, uneven ground, while the handling is worse than that of a buggy, but better than that of a monster.
An excellent compromise option.

Crawler
It is characterized by huge ground clearance, the same huge suspension travel, and low speed.
Designed exclusively for accurate and leisurely overcoming obstacles.

Drift
Exceptionally road car.
Designed, as the name implies, for drifting on asphalt.

Rally (rally)
Along with crawlers, a rather rare class of cars.
As a rule, four-wheel drive vehicles. Differ in copy number. Designed for rolled soil.

Trophy
Differs in high copy number, full wire - often with continuous bridges, low speed, soft, tenacious tires.
Designed for unhurried overcoming of various obstacles in the form of puddles, mud, swamps.
On popular models, a huge amount of tuning is sold in the form of cans, wheels, bodies, etc. to create an exact copy of the real trophy of cars.

Scale models

Models vary in scale from micro (1:18) to huge 1: 5 or 1: 4 up to 1 meter long.
Models of scale from 1:18 to 1:12 are actually toys and do not participate in competitions, while they are not suitable as a gift for small children and are not intended for riding at home, as they are capable of speeds of 30-35 km / h.
The most interesting and popular scales are 1:10 and 1: 8. It is in these classes that the bulk of the competition and the greatest variety of models are held.
Models with a scale of 1:10 and 1: 8 can reach 50 cm in length and are not intended for riding in courtyards and crowded places, since they can reach very high speeds (up to 117 km / h HPI Vorza), and in combination with a mass ( about 4-6 kg) can cause serious injury.
The largest models of 1: 5 scale have, in the overwhelming majority, an internal combustion engine with a volume of 24-28 cm3 and in fact repeat the design of real cars.

Engines

Currently, car engines have four types of engines:
  • Electric brushed motor. Electric motors of a completely standard design with a coil, brushes. It is characterized by low power, often poor reliability and is generally not interesting. It is used on inexpensive small and micro scale models. For 1:18 scale models, it can reach speeds of 25 km / h.
  • Electric brushless (valve) motor (BC). It appeared in RC relatively recently, significantly pushing aside traditional models with internal combustion engines, since it produces similar power and, unlike an internal combustion engine, is much easier to operate.
  • Glow carburetor engine. Used in models from 1:12 to 1: 8 scale. Fueled with fuel containing from 16% to 30% nitromethane. A very moody engine that needs fine tuning of the carburetor. It is highly not recommended for beginners or those who do not like to tinker with technology. The engine is low-volume (a few cubic centimeters), but at the same time it allows you to remove a few horsepower and reach 30,000 - 40,000 rpm.
  • Gasoline internal combustion engines. Used in 1: 5 scale models. Fueled with AI 92-95 gasoline. Engines are much less capricious than low-volume glow motors

Prices

The prices for car models, in contrast to aircraft models, have their own clear limits. So the prices for Chinese models 1:18 with collector motors start at 3000 rubles (~ 80 usd). With a more powerful brushless motor, the price reaches 4500 rubles (~ 130usd). The price range for hobby models (not sports) of a more interesting scale (1:10, 1: 8) varies from 10,000 rubles to 25,000 (300 - 700 usd). The most expensive are models of a scale of 1: 5, prices can reach 40 - 70 thousand rubles (1200 - 2000 usd).

Configuration (delivery options)

There are two types of delivery of models:
  • RTR - ready to run. Such a complete set means that the model is assembled and completely ready for races. But it should be borne in mind that batteries, charger and so on may not be included in the kit. Usually they are included in the kit only for very budget devices. Also, if you buy a model with an internal combustion engine, you will definitely need to purchase a glow plug, batteries, fuel, a thermometer, and so on.
  • Kit. Such a complete set means that for the final assembly of the model, in addition to batteries, chargers, etc., you will need an engine, equipment (remote control with a receiver) wheels, an engine speed regulator, and so on. The whales are for athletes and not for beginners. Such kits are usually supplied in the maximum tuning and it is assumed that the athlete already has all the additional body kit.

Equipment (appa)

One of the most important parts of an RC hobby is hardware: remote control, receiver, telemetry. There are a large number of options on the market from very simple and budget options for 2-channel equipment for 15-20 bucks:

Up to a fancy 4-channel, with telemetry, a bunch of settings and other chips and a price of 600 usd:

The design of the car on the example of my traggie ICE

General picture from the official website:

The model is all-wheel drive. Three differentials. 4.6 cm3 engine, 2.9 hp Two cardan shafts diverging from the center differential to the front and rear. The center differential has two disc brakes. A glow-type engine, which means that to start the engine, the candle must be heated with a special glow, and then the candle spiral keeps the temperature itself.
Bottom deck:

The bottom deck is a 4.5 mm thick aluminum plate with holes for starting the motor using the starter table.
Front suspension design:

The design of the front suspension is in fact not much inferior to real cars in complexity and greatly surpasses them in terms of reliability, so falls from a height of 2 meters onto the ground with a dozen overturns, as a rule, pass for a car without any breakdowns.

Which model should I buy?

The question is complex, and as in the case of computers, you must first decide on the budget and tasks. So for example, if you just want to drive on the model, jump from trampolines and just get fun, then your choice is a monster - for example, HPI Savage. If you are interested in large scale 5 cars, you can look towards the HPI Baja 5T. On a number of forums there are special topics for beginners dedicated to the choice of technology - links at the bottom of the article.

Brands (manufacturers)

A large number of manufacturers are currently represented on the market. You can try to divide them into three categories:
  • Purebred Chinese: Iron Track, Himoto, BSD Racing, VRX Racing, HSP. Favorably differ in price, while reliability and thoughtfulness of the design may suffer. You can buy it as the first model in order to understand whether you like it or not, gain experience in repair and operation.
  • RTR models from US, UK and Japan manufacturers: HPI, KYOSHO, Team Associated, HOTBODIES, Traxxas, Maverick, Team Losi. On average, "in the hospital" they have more reliability and thoughtful design than the Chinese at a slightly higher price. In the case of manufacturers from the middle group, each model must be considered separately, since each brand has both high-quality successful models and not high-quality ones.
  • Whales from Xrax, KYOSHO, Durango, Team Associated. Uncompromising sportsmen's models in full tuning. A whale alone can cost more than the same model in the RTR version, and do not forget that you need to buy an app, an engine, wheels, a speed controller, etc. for it. With an average cost of an RTR model of 20 thousand rubles (600 usd), a prepared version for a competition based on a whale can cost up to 60 - 70 thousand (2000 - 2300 usd).

Competitions

For fans of RC hobbies, competitions are held both at the regional level and at the all-Russian level. Competitions usually have strict regulations and are generally divided into the following classes:
  • Buggy 1:10 4wd electro
  • Buggy 1: 8 4wd electro
  • Buggy 1:10 4wd nitro
  • Buggy 1: 8 4wd nitro
  • Hobby unlim 1: 8
It should be noted that the classes described are a certain convention and may vary from city to city, depending on the popularity of certain models.
If you decide that you want to participate in competitions, think carefully about whether you need it, because like any sport, RC racing requires a lot of time, money, knowledge and patience. As I mentioned above, preparing a new model from scratch for a whale-based competition can cost 60 - 70 thousand rubles. A used one can be found for 25-35 thousand.

Nitro or electro

Before the advent of BC systems, ICEs ruled in the world of car modeling, since collector motors have much less power. With the advent of brushless (valve) electric motors, the scales swung in the opposite direction, since electric motors, with a power comparable to that of an internal combustion engine, have a number of advantages, such as silence, reliability, no need to adjust, run in, no need to start, maintenance is much easier, and so on. At the same time, there is a drawback in the form of the need to charge the batteries and swelling the batteries at sub-zero temperatures.
From myself, I can notice that when I was choosing a serious model, the choice was made on the ICE version, which I later regretted more than once, since maintenance, tuning and so on take a lot of time, but you can ride while there is fuel, and the frantic roar of the engine in a compartment with a cloud of smoke does not leave indifferent more than one passer-by.

How to start?

In order to understand whether you like it or not, he will decide on the model and, in general, I advise you to come and look at the competitions, pokatushki. The people are usually responsive and sociable, they will help and prompt, because they themselves once started that way. It is also worth asking questions on the RC hobby forums.
In St. Petersburg, you can come and talk to the race track called "Under the Bridge":

Not only children are now interested in toys. Many adults buy exact copies of cars of famous brands or are looking for radio-controlled models of cars. Among the offered assortment of toy stores, it is not always possible to find an option that will completely suit the client. In some cases, it is much better to make a radio-controlled model of a car yourself, your child will appreciate your efforts. A do-it-yourself gift from improvised means is much more valuable than a bright car bought at an expensive toy store.

You can make your own radio-controlled car using our sequential algorithm. Modeling from one finished model of a car to another is very similar to the actions of craftsmen in a car workshop.

To create a do-it-yourself controlled machine, you need to have the following elements:

  • Electric motor;
  • Small car body;
  • Robust chassis;
  • Removable wheels;
  • Mini screwdriver set;
  • Detailed instructions for accessories.

Undoubtedly, self-assembly of the machine on the remote control has a lot of advantageous advantages, namely:

  • Saving money, while you will have the model of the machine that you wanted;
  • You can choose the model you need from the offered assortment of spare parts and body types;
  • You decide - to make a mini-typewriter on a wired remote control, or use a radio control, which will have to spend a large amount.

After you decide on the model, follow the following sequence of actions:

  • We select a chassis for your model, pay attention to the quality of all small parts. No blotches and notches on the surface of the plastic should be visible, the front wheels should move smoothly;
  • When choosing wheels, pay special attention to models with rubber, since all plastic models have a poor quality grip surface;
  • Take the choice of motor with all seriousness, since this is the main heart of the mini-car. There are 2 types of mini-motors for cars - electric and gasoline. Electric motors are affordable and easy to use, they are powered by a battery, and it is very easy to recharge it. Gasoline options have more power, but they are more expensive and require delicate maintenance. They need to be injected with special fuel. For beginners in the field of toy car modeling, electric motors are suitable;
  • You need to decide on the type of control - wired or wireless. Wired control is cheaper, but the car will only move within a limited radius, while the RC model will move within antenna range. The radio unit is much more efficient for mini-cars;
  • The body of the future car also deserves increased attention. You can choose a ready-made body or make it according to your personal sketch.

After all the parts are purchased, you can start assembling.

We attach a motor and a radio unit to the chassis. We mount the antenna. Along with the accessories, there should be detailed instructions for assembling the entire machine. We are adjusting the work of the motor. After everything is working properly, fix the sturdy body of the mini-car to the chassis. Now you can decorate the created model as you like. Let's make a car with a powerful motor.

Many will find the idea of ​​assembling a motorized car for their child very strange, since there are many ready-made options on store shelves. But if you strive to show individuality and earn credibility in the eyes of your child, then you can start assembling a machine with a motor, although this is not easy, but the result will justify all efforts.

The best option is to start assembling a radio-controlled model. Here you will need certain skills and knowledge of small electrical engineering, because this mini-machine is a rather complex mechanism, despite its compact size. All important parts must be purchased.

We begin to study the control panel. The movement of the car, the ability to overcome obstacles, and make beautiful maneuvers directly depends on the correct assembly. Many car modellers use a three-channel pistol-style remote control, which you can assemble yourself.

You can follow a simple path - get a special designer, where the kit contains all the necessary parts, their detailed diagrams and final drawings of the finished models.

Engines for future radio-controlled models can be electric or internal combustion. Internal combustion engines produce gasoline or incandescent, operating on a composition of methanol, oil and nitromethane, a special gas-alcohol mixture. The approximate volumes of such engines range from 15 to 35 cm3.

The approximate volume of the fuel tank for such vehicles is 700 cm3. It keeps the engine running smoothly for 45 minutes. Many gasoline models are rear-wheel drive with independent suspension.

Today there are many demountable models on the market for car models. Among the leading manufacturers of mini-cars, it is worth highlighting ABC, Protech, FG Modelsport (Germany), HPI, HIMOTO (USA). Their main feature is the similarity of mini-models with real prototypes. After completing the assembly, according to the attached instructions, install a charged on-board battery, a battery in the transmitter, pour a small amount of gasoline into the tank. You can safely launch your iron horse on the way.

Modeling cars of your own accord is a fun hobby, especially when the result exceeds all expectations. To begin with, you need to purchase a Range Rover bench model, from which we will make a jeep that can freely dissect off-road. We also need to take working electronics from an old jeep, we will fix it in an SUV.

We make bridges and differentials from copper pipes with a soldering iron. We attach it to the powerful wheels of an SUV. Care must be taken to ensure that all connections are firmly sealed. We closed the sharpening differentials with pill caps. From above we cover the entire joint of the differential with ordinary car enamel. We put the bridges on the frame and carry out the steering rods. Steering rods can be obtained from an old disassembled machine. After installing the plastic bottom, we cut out a hole there, which is necessary for installing the gearbox, cardan shafts. The gearbox contains an airplane engine, which is also quite powerful. The model does not move in jerks, but smoothly, this is the most important condition for such models. It is quite difficult to make a gearbox, but here you can show all your ingenuity. We fix the gearbox tightly to the bottom, attach the bottom to the frame. Now the electronics, shock absorbers, battery are being installed. At the end, the body of the car is painted, the main units are installed, the headlights and much more. We apply the paint in 4 layers for ordinary plastic. The author found the original photo of the car and made a mini-copy of it in a toy version. So that the model is not afraid of moisture, he covered the electronics with a special compound. To give the effect of antiquity, I sanded the outer surface of the car after painting. The battery in this model is enough for 25 minutes of continuous riding.

To create such a simple model, we need the following list of small details:

  • Microcircuit for a radio-controlled car;
  • Remote Control;
  • Steering element;
  • Soldering iron with solder;
  • Compact electrical device;
  • Battery with charger.

The procedure is as follows:

  • We collect the lower part of the car, that is, the suspension;
  • For this purpose, a strong plastic plate is required, it will be the basis for this model;
  • A microcircuit for a radio-controlled car is attached to it, we solder a wire to it, which serves as an antenna;
  • We solder the wires from the electric motor;
  • We fix the battery wires to the correct points of the microcircuit;
  • We fix the wheels taken from a simple children's car;
  • All parts can be secured so as not to fall off during use.

We fix the steering elements, it is impossible to do this with glue alone. The front axle must be wrapped with electrical tape for a stronger fix. We attach the battery to a microcircuit. The machine is now ready for testing. It must definitely function. The control of such a machine is carried out using the remote control. By following these instructions, you can easily make a new typewriter on the control. If you want to design with your own hands, then this guide is more useful than ever. A handmade toy pleases much more than a model bought with your own hands.

To assemble this model, we need the following components:

  • A simple model of a car of any production;
  • VAZ parts for opening doors, 12-volt battery;
  • Radio control equipment;
  • Durable batteries with chargers;
  • Radiator;
  • Electronic measuring equipment;
  • Small soldering iron with solder;
  • Locksmith tools;
  • A piece of rubber to provide reinforcement for the bumper.

An approximate scheme for collecting a radio-controlled model is shown in the figure.

Let's move on to reading and collecting the diagram, to the fascinating process of creating a unique mini-typewriter. First, we collect the suspension. We take VAZ connections and gears for assembling the gearbox. The studs and body need to be threaded in order to hang the gears and solenoids. We connect the gearbox to the power supply, check it, and then fix it on a typewriter. To effectively protect the system from overheating, we install a radiator. The plate from it can be firmly fixed with ordinary bolts. Next comes the installation of power driver and radio control microcircuits. We completely install the car body. Our mini car is ready for real challenges.

You have a radio-controlled car. Are you looking to make it more agile, but don't know how to do it?

Do not overload the model with additional systems and unnecessary small details. Sound signals, glowing headlights - these are all conveniences, they look great, but the independent process of collecting a radio-controlled car has certain difficulties even without it. The complication of parts can negatively affect the important chassis of the car. The main point to focus on is the creation of a high-quality suspension, ensuring reliable signal transmission.

To improve maneuverability and optimize speed parameters, fine-tuning the system during test drives is suitable. These guidelines will help you understand the business of car modeling. You can create a typewriter yourself, which will be a real copy of a large model. All the details will be similar, only your version will have everything in a mini-format.

Make your son happy - make a car with him on the control panel

You can start with a simple one - to assemble a construction machine on the remote control. First you need to come up with a project: how your car will look like, how it will move, view other details. To begin immediate assembly, you need to prepare not only all the important components of the future iron horse, but also the necessary devices. To start an exciting joint activity with our sons, we take the following things:

  • Small motor, can be borrowed from an old vein or a household fan;
  • Sturdy frame;
  • Mini rubber kit;
  • Quality suspension for a small chassis;
  • 2 strong axles for fixing the wheels;
  • Wireless antenna;
  • Thin wires for connections;
  • High-quality batteries for the accumulator or special gasoline;
  • Assembled signal receiver;
  • An old control panel, a simple transmitter or an outdated radio unit will do.

From the devices you will need pliers, a small soldering iron, screwdrivers of various diameters.

Assembly order

During the collection process, it may turn out that some of the missing parts will have to be purchased or borrowed from the old, broken machines of the little son. After all, he will sacrifice them for the sake of a cool novelty, isn't that so ?! We take the frame and body from the old samples of the son's toys. The selected motor is tested in advance for maneuverability and performance. The power of the engine should not go against the weight of the machine, because a weak motor will not pull a heavy structure. Batteries must be unused. The step-by-step assembly steps are as follows:

  • First, we assemble the mini-frame;
  • Then we fix and adjust the serviceable motor;
  • We introduce batteries or a compact battery;
  • Next, the antenna is fixed;
  • The wheels are mounted so that they can turn freely, spinning with the axle. If this condition is not met, the machine will only move forward and backward.

For the future iron horse, it is better to take rubber tires, since they perform best in the open field. If the assembly process was easy enough, you were able to figure out all the intricacies of the primary car modeling, then you can make several samples, you can give another copy to a neighbor's boy. They will arrange outdoor races on the street.

Assembling a new unique car is a fascinating process for which dad and son can spend more than one evening. To turn it into a productive business, you can follow the following recommendations, they must be taken into account when assembling a modern toy:

  • Make a sketch of the future model that you want to assemble, or use the ready-made assembly instructions;
  • Purchase all quality car parts;
  • Additional parts can be taken from old machines or purchased new ones;
  • Before installation, thoroughly test the selected motor, this is the heart of the machine;
  • Don't skimp on batteries for a new model, keep them new and unused;
  • Firmly fix all the details, according to their sequence;
  • Study the schemes for creating similar cars in advance to facilitate the assembly process;
  • Choose a ready-made model or come up with something of your own, unique.

Following these recommendations, you and your child will easily make the chosen model of the machine. You can make and collect exact replicas of original cars when you reach a certain level of skill. Putting together a typewriter in a family circle is the best way to effectively organize leisure for yourself and your child.

A self-assembled machine will be a valuable present for your children, because real fatherly feelings are embedded in it. When assembled, the model will travel in the selected direction and is easy to maneuver. You can learn how to make a simple version of the typewriter by following the recommendations from the proposed video. Start your journey in the world of car modeling!

Buying a radio-controlled device today is not a problem. And a car, and a train, and a helicopter, and a quadcopter. But it is much more interesting to try to create a radio-controlled car with your own hands. We will present you with two detailed instructions.

Model # 1: what do we need?

To create this radio-controlled model you will need:

  • A model car (you can even take an ordinary Chinese one from the market).
  • AGC auto.
  • Solenoid for opening the doors of a VAZ car, battery 2400 A / h, 12 V.
  • A piece of rubber.
  • Radiator.
  • Electrical measuring instruments.
  • Soldering iron, to it - solder, as well as locksmith tools.
  • Reducer.
  • Brush motor (for example, from a toy helicopter).

Model number 1: instructions for creating

And now we start creating a radio-controlled car with our own hands:

Model # 2: required accessories

To create a car you will need:

  • Automobile model.
  • Spare parts from an unnecessary collection machine, printer (gears, rods, iron drives).
  • Copper tubes (sold at hardware stores).
  • Soldering iron.
  • Auto enamel.
  • Bolts.
  • Necessary electronics.
  • Battery.

Model # 2: creating a device

We start making a radio-controlled car with our own hands:


In conclusion, we will present you one of the drawings for radio-controlled car models - a receiver diagram.

A homemade radio-controlled car is a reality. Of course, you won't be able to make it from scratch - develop your experience on simpler models.

1. Introduction
2. Types of car models
3. Internal combustion engine versus Electro. Comparison.

5. Batteries
6. Fuel
7. Body models
8. List of necessary things

1. Introduction

So, you are interested in radio-controlled car models. Whether it's a model with an internal combustion engine (ICE) or a model with an electric motor, this article will help you determine what you prefer, understand some of the general principles of the model and radio control, and buy everything you need for further operation.

First, let's take a look at the different types of car models.

2. Types of car models

Radio controlled car models can be classified as follows:

  • by scale (size): 1:12, 1:10, 1: 8
  • by engine type: ICE (or nitro) (internal combustion engine) or Electric (electric motor)
  • by chassis type: Road, Formula 1, Buggy, Truck, Monster trucks (or Monsters)

Let's look at everything in order:

Scale

The scale of the model is indicated as for example 1:10 (or 1/10). The most common scales are 1:10 and 1: 8. The 1:12 scale is getting pretty rare. The 1:18 scale is gaining popularity (very popular among conventional, bench car models), new models of both road cars and monsters appear in it.

There are also 1:24 and 1:28 scales in which the Japanese firm Kyosho makes the Mini-Z series, but these scales are approximate, they are indicated as an average for the series.
And finally, at the other extreme - scale 1: 5 - these are huge cars (about a meter long) with gasoline engines.

ICE (left) and electric motor. The proportions are not met! Usually the electric motor is much smaller than the internal combustion engine.

engine's type

Engines on the models are as follows: Internal combustion engine (ICE, also the term Nitro is used) and Electric motors.
Internal combustion engines (in the picture on the left) run on a mixture of methanol, nitromethane and oil. This fuel is sold in canisters at model stores. It is better to use high quality branded fuel so that the engine works well and lasts a long time. ICEs are divided into classes according to their working volume:

Grade 12 (2.11cc) - 1:10 scale road models
15th grade (2.5cc) - 1:10 road models, buggies, trucks, monsters 1:10
18th grade (3.0 cc) - buggies, trucks, monsters 1:10
21st class (3.5cc) - road 1: 8, buggies and monsters 1: 8
25th class (4.1 cc) - buggies and monsters 1: 8

The name of the classes comes from the American classification of volume in cubic inches. So, for example, the 15th class means that the engine volume is 0.15 cubic meters. inch. When converted to cubic centimeters, it turns out: 0.15 * 2.543 = 2.458 cubic meters. cm, i.e. about 2.5.

The higher the class, the larger the engine displacement, the higher the power. For example: the power of the engines of the 15th class is from about 0.6 hp. up to 1.2 HP Engines of the 25th class already develop 2.5 hp. and more.

Electric motors (pictured to the right) are usually powered by 7.2 V or higher batteries. Batteries are soldered from elements of 1.2 V. They also sell separate elements for soldering and ready-made batteries.
Electric motors are classified by the length of the wire wound inside (by the number of turns) - 10 turns, 11 turns, 16 turns, 24 turns, etc. The fewer the number of turns, the faster the engine.

Chassis type

The chassis is the foundation of the model. All important elements are attached to it - engine, electronics, etc. Different chassis types serve different purposes and are designed based on the application.

Formula 1- designed for the development of high speeds and races on an absolutely flat surface. The drive is rear-wheel drive (2WD), although there are models with all-wheel drive (4WD).

Buggy- for off-road racing (sand, clay, gravel, mud), can jump from trampolines. Drive - full (4WD) or rear (2WD).

Tracks- similar in design to the buggy, but have a higher ground clearance and larger wheels. Drive - full (4WD) or rear (2WD).

Monsters- have huge wheels and are able to overcome any obstacles and ride on any surface. The long suspension travel allows you to jump from high jumps and do whatever you want. Drive - full (4WD) or rear (2WD).

Road models- are able to ride on a flat surface and have high speed and good handling. Drive - full (4WD), less often rear (2WD).

3. Internal combustion engine (internal combustion engine) versus Electro. Comparison

Before making a choice, you need to weigh the pros and cons of each type of engine. A correct understanding of the advantages and disadvantages of models with an electric motor and with an internal combustion engine will help to rationally spend money and avoid problems and disappointments. So:

ICE models

Many ICE models are faster than electric models and can exceed speeds of 70-80 km / h. Be that as it may, hitting a curb or wall at 70 km / h can destroy the model completely or cause costly repairs.

ICEs for car models are single-cylinder two-stroke engines, which means they need fuel (not gasoline, but special fuel). This means that you will have to regularly buy fuel for the model (the approximate price of 4 liters of good fuel is $ 45, however, the canister lasts quite a long time). The advantage of a model with an internal combustion engine is that you can drive it as long as you like - the main thing is to fill the tank with fuel. As a rule, models with internal combustion engines are more expensive than models with an electric motor (due to the higher cost of the engine itself). Among the significant advantages of models with internal combustion engines is realistic sound.

Models with electric motor

The main disadvantage of electric models is that the battery runs out quickly. You are unlikely to be able to drive continuously for more than 15 minutes on a single charge. But apart from a short ride time and a slightly lower top speed in all other respects, the models with an electric motor turn out to be better. The main advantage of models with an electric motor is their silence, environmental friendliness and much better acceleration compared to models with an internal combustion engine.

Be that as it may, you still have to buy some additional equipment for the model - batteries and a charger. Batteries cost from $ 15 and differ in capacity and current output. The better the batteries, the higher the price, and it increases non-linearly. The chargers work either from 12V (powered by a cigarette lighter or a conventional car battery), or 220V (mains). There are chargers that can operate from 12 and 220V.

4. Radio control (equipment)

No matter what type of chassis and what scale you choose, you need a radio control system for the model. Many companies make models of some of their models in the form of RTR (Ready To Run) - ready to use right out of the box - they are usually already assembled and include everything you need, including a control panel. However, some of the models are still sold as an assembly kit and control equipment will have to be purchased additionally. Let's take a look at the principle of model driving.

Radio control system for a car model with an electric motor:

3. If the driver turns the steering wheel, the Receiver will send a signal to the Servo (also called Servo), forcing it to turn in the right direction. Through the linkage system, this servo turn causes the model's wheels to turn.

4. If the rider pulls the trigger, the Receiver sends a signal to the Regulator (Speed ​​Regulator).

5. Speed ​​controller (also called Stroke controller, Speed ​​controller) changes the speed of the electric motor and, consequently, the speed of the model (the engine is connected to the wheels by a system of belts and / or cardan shafts).

6. The battery is used to power the Motor, Servo 1, Receiver and ESC. If the model has an electronic speed controller, then the battery is connected to it, and the controller distributes power to the motor, receiver and servo.

Radio control system for a car model with an internal combustion engine:

1. When the rider pulls the trigger or turns the steering wheel on the Control Panel, a signal is sent to the Model Receiver.

2. The receiver receives the signal, processes it and sends the signal to the appropriate devices in the model.

3. If the driver turns the steering wheel, the Receiver will send a signal to Servo 1, forcing it to turn in the desired direction. Through the linkage system, this servo turn causes the model's wheels to turn.

4. If the rider pulls the trigger, the Receiver sends a signal to Servo 2.

5. Servo 2 moves the carburetor choke, which changes the flow of the fuel / air mixture and therefore the engine RPM and model speed.

6. The battery is used to power the Receiver, Servo 1 and Servo 2.

The items shown above constitute a complete list of the model's radio equipment. All of these elements are required to drive the model. ESCs are usually sold separately, while the remote control, receiver and servos are sold separately or all in one kit.

5. Batteries

If you decide to buy a model with an electric motor, you will need batteries. Car models usually use 7.2V batteries, which are soldered in 6 1.2V cells. There are currently two types of batteries in widespread use - Nickel Cadmium (NiCd) and Nickel Metal Hydride (NiMH). Each type has its own advantages and disadvantages, but NiMHs allow for a large battery capacity and have little or no memory effect.

How batteries differ.

Batteries are characterized by many parameters - internal resistance, average voltage, discharge current, etc. The exact values ​​of these parameters are given for expensive batteries for serious sports, for hobbies and amateur racing you can not focus on them and buy batteries more affordable. In this case, the most important parameters are the type of battery (NiCd or NiMH) and its capacity (measured in mAh, for example 2400 mAh), it is indicated on the batteries in large numbers. The higher the capacity, the longer you can ride the model. The price, however, also increases ...

How many batteries should I buy?

For a start, it would be good to buy 2-3 batteries, which will allow you to ride with battery replacement for a long time. As for the capacity, it is better not to buy batteries with a capacity of less than 1500mAh, otherwise the driving time will be very short.

6. Fuel

Internal combustion engines for models cannot run on regular gasoline. They require a special fuel based on methanol and with varying amounts of nitromethane and oil. Nitromethane improves engine performance, and its content in car fuels is typically 16 to 25%. The oil in the fuel helps lubricate the engine and protect it from damage. Fuel cans usually indicate the nitromethane content and the type of model for which the fuel is applicable.

7. Body models

Bodies for car models are made of special plastic - polycarbonate (Lexan). The bodies are quite light and flexible so as not to break when struck. Models can be sold with or without a body. But you can always buy a body separately - fortunately, a great variety of bodies are available, copying a huge number of real cars.
Bodies are sold already painted or unpainted (transparent). The transparent body is painted from the inside with a special paint for polycarbonate, which can be found in any shop for modelers.

Bodies of different manufacturers may differ in the degree of detail and strength: some bodies are well-designed, accurately copy the original, but at the same time they are quite fragile. Other bodies contain less detail, but are more resilient and impact resistant. If you are a beginner, then try to choose more flexible bodies, because accidents are inevitable in the beginning and happen more often than it seems at first glance.

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8. List of necessary things

And, finally, a complete list of what you should buy for the model for its full functioning, start and maintenance.

For model with electric motor:

  • Chassis (with electric motor)
  • Radio control (the kit must contain 1 remote control, 1 receiver and 1 servo)
  • Speed ​​controller (depends on the motor model, consult your dealer)
  • Batteries (buy at least 2 batteries with a capacity of at least 1500mAh)
  • Charger

For model with ICE:

  • Chassis (with engine)
  • Radio control (the kit must contain 1 remote control, 1 receiver and 2 servos)
  • Rechargeable batteries or batteries (for powering the receiver and servos, usually 4 pieces of AA type)
  • Body (if it was not included with the chassis)
  • Body paint (it is better to buy 2 spray cans)
  • Fuel
  • A bottle for filling fuel into the model's tank
  • Glow plug device (called glowstart in English)

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