What does the stabilizer bush look like? Replacing anti-roll bar bushings. Which bushings to choose

You can determine whether it is necessary to replace the stabilizer bushings by knocking or squeaking that appears in the suspension when braking and driving over bumps. And given that sometimes there are more holes on our roads than asphalt pavement, the replacement process must be carried out regularly. The bushings themselves are not very expensive, their timely replacement will save them from rapid wear and tear, and the car owner from unnecessary spending associated with their replacement.

The replacement process is quite simple and you can easily do it yourself using the proposed instructions.

The stabilizer bushings are among the parts that are subject to the highest dynamic loads. They require regular replacement, depending on the service regulations adopted by various car manufacturers and models. The maximum mileage before replacing the rear and front hubs is typically 15,000 to 30,000 km. Taking into account the condition of our roads, it is recommended to replace them after wear.

Untimely replacement can lead to the formation of a roll in the stabilizer bar of the car, and this, in turn, increases the risk of the car overturning at speed. The complete set is subject to mandatory replacement, regardless of the difference in external signs of wear. The cost of such a repair service in a service station is often overstated, given the ease of replacement for most car models, so it is advisable to replace the front and rear bushings with your own hands.

Diagnostics

The knock of the stabilizers is a guaranteed sign that the bushings need to be replaced immediately. In addition to it, squeaks may appear, especially during a cold snap, when the rubber loses its elasticity.

It may be necessary to remove the crankcase guard to determine if replacement is necessary. To check the source of vibration, place your hands on the stabilizer post and directly on the mounting bracket. The partner should press hard on the hood of the car several times. If vibrations are felt on the brackets, which are transmitted to the rack, a new kit must be installed, even if no backlash was noticed when inspecting the seats on the stabilizer.

If the hole inside the sleeve has taken the shape of an ellipse, cracks are visible on the surface, and the material has hardened, immediate replacement is necessary. Continued use of the vehicle will significantly reduce the service life of the stabilizer struts.

Tool

To replace the front or rear bushings with your own hands, you will need:

• small ratchet with extension and cap head;
• open-end wrench, it should be thin and small;
• large ratchet, cardan adapter and union head;
• you may need an L-shaped extension cord.

Sequence of work

1. The car is securely fixed in the jacked state.
2. Wheels are unscrewed and removed. There is an engine guard in the right wheel arch. Its fasteners are unscrewed and the flap is removed.
3. Most of the fasteners under the bottom are pretty acidic, so to speed up the process of replacing the stabilizer bushings, they must be thoroughly treated with WD 40, which removes corrosion.
4. Using the open-end wrench, we fix the finger on the left stand. It is a little hidden from direct access, so the grooves need to be found almost by touch.

1. We throw a box wrench, preferably a ratchet, onto the nut that secures the shock absorber. We unscrew both fasteners.
2. Having freed the stabilizer struts from the mountings, we disconnect them from the shock absorber strut.
3. Place a jack under the left rear part of the subframe. With its help, the subframe is fixed so that when removing the fasteners it does not suddenly jump off the studs. A significant metal plate must be placed under the jack support head so as not to deform the subframe.

1. Smoothly lower the jack a few centimeters from the body. Thanks to this, the subframe also lowers slightly, opening access to the bushings.

1. A pipe is inserted into the resulting gap, and the subframe is additionally pushed down. A stopper is inserted into the resulting gap. A head for 27 is suitable; when installing it between the body and the subframe washer, it is better to use pliers. This will prevent injury to your hand if the tube slips off the subframe washer.
2. We water the bracket mountings generously with WD-40. Unscrew the bolts gradually, without pressing too much.

1. We remove the released bracket from the bushing, and then remove the bushing itself.

1. Install the bushing from a new kit. The cut on the parts must be directed strictly backward. We position the new part exactly in the place of the old one.
2. We install a clamp over the sleeve. We lightly bait the fasteners with our fingers, and then tighten with a wrench, alternately and evenly tightening all the bolts.
3. The stopper, which was used as the key head, is removed. The subframe is lifted by hand and screwed onto the body.
4. All these steps are performed in the same way with respect to the second clamp.
5. After the bushings are installed, both legs are screwed into place.

IMPORTANT! Before installation, all threaded parts of the fasteners are coated with graphite grease to avoid sticking.

When performing the specified work, you should be careful and pay attention to safety. In general, such work can be done by hand.

Naturally, the design of various car brands is significantly different, so the replacement instructions are rather general recommendations. For a more detailed acquaintance, a series of videos on carrying out this type of repair for various car brands is presented.

Video on replacing stabilizer bushings Ford Explorer:

Video Chevrolet Aveo 3 - split bushings used in this model make the repair process quick and easy.

Nissan X-Trail video:

Video explaining workflows for Renault Logan:

The main task of the suspension is to provide an elastic connection between the body and the wheels. Thus, the suspension softens the jolts and jumps that occur when the vehicle is moving on uneven roads or the absence of it. The smooth running of the car is directly dependent on the suspension.

The suspension serves as a kind of shock absorber, absorbing the energy that occurs when driving over irregularities, or falling into pits and potholes. However, it does not guarantee complete softness of movement and wears out a lot with frequent movement over bumps.

Pendants are divided into the following types:

• McPherson;
• double wishbone;
• multi-link;
• adaptive;
• De Dion;
• back dependent;
• rear semi-dependent;
• pickups and SUVs;
• trucks.

Suspension type McPherson

The McPherson suspension is one of the oldest. It was developed by the talented engineer Earl MacPherson in 1960. Consists of anti-roll bar, arm and block. Changing the camber angle is a serious disadvantage of the suspension, but it is very popular due to its availability and reliability.

Double wishbone suspension

The double wishbone suspension is one of the most advanced designs. This is a suspension with two arms of different lengths (upper short and lower long). This design allows the vehicle to remain stable on the road and ensures the durability of the tires. Each wheel takes its own obstacle independently and does not transfer the load to other wheels.

The multi-link suspension was developed not so long ago and is an even more sophisticated design. It is a set of many levers, silent blocks and hinges. All of these components are designed to absorb shock and shock while riding. The noise level from the wheels in the passenger compartment is also reduced. The suspension has separate lateral and longitudinal adjustments. The wheels are independent of each other. The design is ideal for 4WD vehicles.

The cost of a multi-link suspension remained quite high for some time, but now even golf-class drivers can afford it.

Adaptive suspension

The adaptive suspension is quite interesting in terms of design. For a long time it was primitive and weighed a lot, but now it has been greatly modernized. Due to this, it allows maximum body roll and wave swing at high speed and allows it to automatically adapt to any type of road surface. The adaptive suspension includes: adjustable anti-roll bars, active shock absorbers, a chassis control unit and electronic sensors that detect road irregularities and other parameters.

"De Dion"

"De Dion" is named after its French creator. The main function of such a suspension is to reduce the load on the rear axle of the vehicle by separating the final drive housing. In this case, the crankcase rests on the body. This design allows you to make the suspension dependent or independent. But there are also disadvantages. When starting off abruptly, the body of the vehicle can put a lot of pressure on the rear axle.

Rear dependent suspension

The rear dependent suspension is a real classic version, as it was used on many old VAZ cars. The suspension is based on cylindrical helical springs, which are elastic elements. The rear axle beam "hangs" on springs and is fixed to the body by means of four trailing arms. The reactive transverse rod acts as a roll absorber and has a positive effect on handling. But do not expect comfort and smoothness from this suspension, since the rear axle weighs a lot.

Semi-independent rear suspension is most commonly used in all-wheel drive vehicles. Its main elements are two trailing arms, which are attached in the center to the cross member. Such a suspension weighs a little and does not require any special maintenance or major repairs. But such a suspension cannot be installed on rear-wheel drive cars.

Other types of pendants

The suspension of trucks is most often dependent with transverse or longitudinal springs and hydraulic shock absorbers. This design makes it possible to simplify the process of manufacturing and repairing trucks.

Anti-roll bar: design and purpose

The anti-roll bar is an indispensable suspension component. It reduces body roll when cornering, increases wheel grip and evenly distributes the load on the frame. It is shaped like a metal bar with curved tips. It is attached on each side to the wheels of one of the axles, most often in the front (front stabilizer). Also, this structural element is attached to the car body.

Suspension diagnostics in the service center

The cost of such diagnostics varies from five hundred to one thousand rubles. Diagnostics allows you to identify suspension defects. Since this part of the car is most susceptible to wear and tear, diagnostics should be carried out promptly and in a timely manner.

You can determine that it is time to check the suspension for serviceability by an uncharacteristic knock and an increase in the braking distance of the car. Vehicle stability on the road also weakens over time. Diagnostics in service centers is carried out using high-precision equipment (backlash meter, side care tester) and provides maximum information content. After diagnostics, you will receive a special diagnostic card with the results of the work.

Special bushings are used to install the stabilizer. What is a bushing? These are elastic elements that provide the car with a smooth ride. These bushings also ensure that there is no noise or vibration from the gimbal.

The sleeve is molded from rubber or polyurethane. The shape is identical for most models. Additionally equipped with grooves that protect against mechanical stress.

Signs of wear on stabilizer bushings

There are several signs:

• the formation of a backlash of the steering wheel during turns;
• shaking of the steering wheel;
• body roll with various knocks and clicks;
• vibration and extraneous noise;
• "Wobbling" of the car to the side when driving straight;
• instability on the road.

Causes of malfunctioning bushings

Bushings most often fail due to poor road surface, the use of various reagents. Reagents used during icy conditions are no exception. Aggressive driving with hard braking and starting quickly leads to wear and tear on most vehicle structures, including the stabilizer bushings.

Low temperatures can be a serious cause of wear. The rubber of poor quality bushings will harden strongly and lose the necessary elasticity.

Finally, the biggest factor in wear and tear is time. The stabilizer bushing, like most elements of the car's structure, is a spare part with an expiration date. Sooner or later, any bushing is subject to wear and requires replacement.

Before replacing the stabilizer bushings, you must carefully inspect the suspension. The suspension must be cleaned from dirt. You can visually determine the wear on the bushing: it will have patterned cracks and various abrasions. The rubber of worn out bushings loses its elasticity. A special inspection hole or lift will help you to inspect the bushings. If there are no such conveniences, use the "folk" method. Put your hands on the top of the roof of the car and rock it. Knocks and squeaks at the bottom of the case will be a signal to replace the bushings.

Some car owners are trying to extend the life of the bushings by using special lubricants. This method is not recommended, since lubrication "collects" various road debris and dust while driving. But if you still decide to use a lubricant, then purchase a quality product that does not destroy rubber. Litol-24 and MOLYKOTE CU-7439 will suit you. These are versatile products. They can even be used to lubricate brake calipers. Bushing grease is often available in a repair kit. In some cases, you may need a crowbar.

You will need one or more jacks to replace the bushings. It is advisable to carry out the replacement at the inspection pit, where special supports may also be needed. From the tools you will need wrenches, a screwdriver and a repair kit.

Step-by-step instructions for self-replacement

The process of replacing the front and transverse stabilizer bushings is slightly different.

To replace the front stabilizer bushings, you need to follow the steps below:

1. Place the vehicle stationary above a pit or on a lift.
2. Use the tools to loosen the front wheel bolts.
3. Remove the wheels.
4. Unscrew the nuts securing the struts to the stabilizer.
5. Disconnect the struts and stabilizer.
6. Loosen the rear bolts of the bracket that frames the hub, and then remove the front bolts.
7. Thoroughly remove dirt from the places for installing new bushings.
8. Lubricate the inside of the bushings with silicone spray or soapy water. For this, the special grease available in the repair kits may also be suitable.
9. Install the stabilizer bushings and reassemble all parts.

To replace the lateral stabilizer bushings, you also need to position the vehicle stationary over a pit or on a lift. After that, take a series of actions described below:

1. Place chocks under the rear wheels of the vehicle and raise the front wheels slightly.
2. Using a special open-end wrench, unscrew the nuts on the brackets in the places where they are attached to the lower arm of the car's suspension. Do this on both sides of the stabilizer bar. Washers-grovers under the nuts are removed manually.
3. Remove staples and remove worn bushings. To do this, bend the stabilizer bar with a crowbar and hold it with the same crowbar when removing the bushing.
4. If there are central bushings, then you will have to remove the stabilizer bar, which is attached to the two brackets. You can unscrew the nuts on them with an open-end wrench.
5. After removing the bar, clamp the bracket in a vice. Then you can remove the rod and then the bushing.
6. Replace the bushing by cleaning the installation sites from dirt and lubricating.
7. Further, as usual, reverse assembly is carried out.

Many different rubber gaskets and bushings are installed on automotive mechanisms for normal operation or as a connecting element. But such elements wear out rather quickly due to the increased intensity. As a result, backlash appears in them, which makes the trip by car unsafe. In addition, worn bushings can lead to more serious malfunctions.

This also applies to bushings mounted on the stabilizer. If you begin to notice noise in the car's suspension while driving, this may mean that you need to replace the stabilizer bushings. And this applies to the replacement of the front and rear bushings. More about this and will be discussed in this article.

In the field of mechanical engineering, the stabilizer appeared along with the first cars, the maximum speed of which exceeded the 20 km / h mark. Due to the large rolls that occur when turning, it became necessary to install this component. The main purpose of the stabilizer is to protect the vehicle from overturning, since during a turn the load on the outer wheels increases, while on the inner wheels, on the contrary, decreases. This causes the machine to rock. The stabilizer makes it more stable on the road, preventing it from rolling over.

On a note! All car suspensions are equipped with a stabilizer, not only in the front, but also in the back. A stabilizer is not needed only if a torsion bar is installed at the rear of the car: the stabilizer functions will be assigned to the suspension itself.

The design of the stabilizer on many cars is a U-shaped metal bar made of spring steel. To attach the device to the body, special clamps and bushings are used to allow the stabilizer to rotate. For greater stability of the car and increase the elasticity of the stabilizer, bushings are used - all the shocks from various suspension elements fall on them.

What are bushings and why are they needed

The main task of the bushings is to reduce the noise of the suspension while driving and to attach the stabilizer to the car body. They are usually made from two materials: polyurethane and rubber. The parts have high elasticity and strength, which is why there are no squeaks and knocks when the height of any of the wheels changes. In addition, it is impossible to rigidly attach the stabilizer to the body, since the distance from the attachment point to the edge of the stabilizer changes during bending.

Often, various sounds arising from movement and sharp turns - squeaks, knocks, and so on, can indicate a malfunction of the bushings. This phenomenon is associated with the loss of elasticity of the sleeve, as a result of which it becomes very rigid. Also, dust or sand can accumulate under this part.

Signs of bushing wear

The design parameters of the bushing are a bit similar to those of a ball joint, only the bushing has one unpleasant feature - it wears out, as a result of which the part becomes faulty. It should also be noted that driving a car with damaged suspension elements is unsafe, so if you find a malfunction of the stabilizer bush, try to replace it as soon as possible. Determining the unsuitability of the bushing for the driver will not be difficult, because when driving, it will become difficult to control the vehicle.

In most cases, the deterioration of the stabilizer bush is accompanied by characteristic sounds in the suspension area, which increase when the vehicle is accelerated. Overcoming road irregularities (bumps, pits, pebbles on the road) makes drivers shudder from the resulting impacts in the lower part of the car. An attentive driver will immediately notice extraneous noises and minor deterioration in car handling, and will also deal with the cause of this problem.

To prevent the bushings and suspension from being brought to such a state, it is recommended to carry out regular inspections of all structural elements. In this case, it is necessary to conduct a close diagnosis of the bushing.

Diagnostics

Diagnosis of stabilizer bushings consists of two steps:

• visual assessment;
• providing mechanical impact.

It is necessary to put the car on an overpass or pit to check the rubber bands. Some people use a hoist for this purpose, but this can be dangerous. The fact is that the bushing diagnostics implies a strong jerking of the stabilizer, as a result of which the car sways and may fall. The same goes for jacks, from which the car will jump off much faster than from a lift. This can lead to the most unfortunate consequences, since the weight of the car is very heavy, and all this metal structure can crush the mechanic.

The purpose of the visual assessment is to inspect the rubber bands for tears and cracks. If at least one crack was found on at least one part, then the entire set must be changed completely. Mechanical impact requires brute male force - grasp the stabilizer next to the bushing that connects the part to the body and pull it hard in all directions. In the process, knocks or squeaks may occur. This means that the bushings need to be replaced. In the process of mechanical stress, do not be afraid to damage the stabilizer or the bushings themselves - they are designed for a heavy load, so your attempts to check the serviceability of the parts will not be able to do them any harm.

What you need to replace

You don't need a lot of tools to get the job done, but you still need to prepare them ahead of time.

To replace the stabilizer bushings you need:

• jack;
• ruler or vernier caliper;
• special extension for the key;
• ratchet wrench;
• spanner keys, one for 13, and the other for 10;
• elongated or conventional sockets (14,13).

It is worth noting that this is only a basic set of tools, in fact, others may be needed. This is due to the need to unscrew the fastening nuts when removing the stabilizer. This is the whole catch, because with a regular wrench you will not be able to unscrew the fastening nuts (during operation, they stuck to the part). In this case, many resort to emergency measures - using a hacksaw for metal or a grinder. In the process of loosening the nuts, the stabilizer struts can be damaged, so you will not be able to do with one replacement of the rubber bands.

The jack may be needed in two cases: to raise the car and to return the stabilizer bar to its original position, if you cannot do this with your hands or with a crowbar. If the bar is still slightly out of the way, then raise the rear of the car. This should be enough for the part to return to its place.

Also, you cannot cope with replacing the bushings without the stabilizer bushings themselves. You can get them without leaving your home. Fortunately, there is the Internet for this, with the help of which you can order the desired part with home delivery. You can also visit a car shop or market. Also keep in mind that certain rubber bands are needed for each car model, so before buying, do not be too lazy to first remove the old parts for comparison in the store. In addition, they can retain a serial number, which will facilitate the selection process. Otherwise, you risk spending money on a part that will not fit your car.

The quality of parts also plays an important role, because not only natural rubber, but also artificial rubber can be used for their production. If you have a choice: buy a sleeve made of natural or artificial material, then it is better to give preference to the latter option (it is more durable).

Replacing the front bushings

There are two ways to perform this procedure: jack one side of the car or two. The second method is considered more laborious, but many motorists prefer it. In addition, with both sides of the machine raised, the installation and removal of the bushings will be much easier. The main thing is safety precautions and adherence to the step-by-step instructions, which are given below.

Step 1. Buy replacement parts first. You can take the original or an analogue - it depends on your preferences and financial capabilities. Although even if you choose the original, then you will have to pay no more than 400 rubles for the parts.

Step 2. Install the wheel chocks and jack up the vehicle. Then, remove the bushing bracket retaining bolt. To do this, you will need a 12 key. If the bolt will not turn, then treat it with WD-40 or as this tool is popularly called - "Vedoshka". After 5-10 minutes, the fastener can be easily unscrewed.

Step 3. After loosening the mounting bolts, bend the retaining bracket slightly upward. It is very difficult to do this with your bare hands, so use a screwdriver, slightly prying the edge of the bracket with it.

Step 4. Remove the bushing carefully. You do not need to use any tools for this, the sleeve can be easily removed anyway. After removal, inspect the part for damage, signs of wear, or cracks.

Step 5. Place the new bushing in place and lower the retaining bracket onto it. It is advisable to treat the surface of the sleeve with a small amount of graphite grease beforehand so that the bracket fits onto the rubber band without problems. Then tighten the fixing bolt, being careful not to rip off the threads. Otherwise, you have a little extra worries.

Replacing the rear bushings

The rear stabilizer is mounted using two rubber bushings. As a rule, during the operation of the car, these parts lose their strength and elasticity, as a result of which they are no longer able to perform their main functions. As a result, the rear suspension starts to knock when driving. If you hear characteristic sounds, then it is necessary to replace the rear bushings. As with replacing the front bushings, the machine must be jacked up. It is advisable to raise two sides at once - right and left. Now get to work.

Step 1. Get some new rubber bands to start with. In this case, they come complete with a special lubricant, which extends the service life of the parts and facilitates the replacement process.

Step 2. Clean any dust from the surface of the stabilizer and fastener. To do this, use coarse sandpaper or a stiff brush. Then sprinkle some WD-40 on the bolt to make it easier to loosen.

Step 3. Unscrew the fastening bolt by 14, and then slightly squeeze the bracket with pliers so that you can then remove the part. As you can see, the processes for replacing the front and rear bushings are not much different from each other, with the exception of the bolt being removed.

Step 4. Lubricate the stabilizer with the liquid supplied, and then you can install a new bushing. Do not mix up the sides of the part, install it the same side as before. Otherwise, you run the risk of significantly reducing the life of a completely new part.

Step 5. Carefully slide the stabilizer bracket back into place and secure with the bolt. In this case, you need to be careful not to damage the fastener or the bracket itself. Now lower the back of the car and ride it to test your work.

Benefits of timely replacement

Each driver will be able to cope with the replacement of bushings on his car, because this process is not a super-complicated repair. Everything can be done with your own hands, but if you do not have the time or desire, then it is advisable to seek help from specialists. This will help protect the anti-roll bar from premature wear.

Driving on poor-quality road surfaces will recede into the background if you have previously installed brand new bushings. And in general, the installed new bushings mean the absence of difficulties and problems during movement, as well as comfort and safety.

Features of the problem for popular models

As statistics show, the owners of such car models as Renault Megan, Skoda Rapid, Volkswagen Polo, Lada Vesta (and other representatives of the domestic auto industry) face problems associated with stabilizer bushings. Consider the features of specific car models, as well as recommendations for replacement.

Table. Description of the problem for some models

Model	Description of the problem
	Often it is the structure of a given vehicle's suspension that is the main cause of bushing problems. Vesta is famous for the long travel of the stabilizer struts, which can cause unpleasant sounds when driving. Many car owners underestimate the fit of their car to solve this problem. You can also use a special silicone based lubricant.
	One proven way to fix squeaks is to fit a small piece of an old timing belt between the stabilizer bushing and the car body. The replacement of the bushings itself is no different from that indicated in the instructions above.
	As practice shows, the best way to get rid of squeaks is to install original VAG rubber bands. Also, many motorists use repair sleeves that differ from the usual sizes (repair sleeves are less than 1 mm). Alternatively, you can install rubber bands from other models of this manufacturer, for example, from Skoda Fabia.
	The process of replacing the bushing is no different from other models, but before installing a new rubber band, it and the seat must be treated with lubricant, which then will not harm the parts. Shampoo or soap can be used for this purpose. Depending on the modification, Renault Megane can be equipped with a reinforced or conventional suspension, therefore, the dimensions of the bushings and the stabilizer itself may differ. Consider this when purchasing replacement parts.
	Before purchasing the bushings, you must first measure the diameter of the stabilizer, since their dimensions may differ depending on the modification. To do this, use a vernier caliper. Many experts recommend buying special rubber bands for your car, equipped with anthers to protect against dust and water. For surface treatment of parts, it is necessary to use silicone-based products that will not corrode rubber. These products include "MOLYKOTE PG-54", "Litol-24" and others.

As a conclusion

Despite the ease of replacement, which almost every motorist can handle, safety must not be forgotten. The weight of the vehicle is no joke, so improper use of the jack or lack of a wheel choke can lead to serious injury. To avoid this, be sure to check the condition of the jack before work, and perform all steps of this process with extreme caution.

Video - Replacing the stabilizer bushings on the Chevrolet Aveo

Anti-roll bar bushings are an integral part of the system that ensures the lateral stability of the machine when cornering. During turning, the centrifugal force tends to tilt the body in the opposite direction, and the torsion bar of the stabilizer, with the help of bushings attached to the body and suspension, resists this influence. Over time, the bushings wear out, deteriorate and become unusable, after which they must be replaced. We will show you how to determine if bushings require replacement and how to change them.

What are bushings for?

The anti-roll bar works on the principle of a torsion bar - a twisting beam, due to which a change in the height of the right wheel relative to the left leads to twisting of the steel bar from which the stabilizer is made. The task of the bushings is not only to attach the stabilizer to the body, but also to reduce the noise level of the entire system. The rubber or polyurethane from which the hubs are made has good strength and elasticity, so that the change in the height of one of the axle wheels passes without knocking and squeaking. In addition, it is impossible to rigidly attach the stabilizer to the suspension and the body, due to the fact that as it bends, the distance from the edge of the stabilizer to the point of attachment of the suspension also changes. Very often, faulty bushings make various sounds - knocks, squeaks, especially during the passage of speed bumps or in sharp turns. This is due to the fact that the sleeve either loses its elasticity, becoming too rigid, or sand or dust is packed under it.

How to check the bushings

Checking bushings consists of two stages:

• visual inspection;
• mechanical impact.

To check the bushings, the car is rolled onto a pit or overpass. It is undesirable to carry out these works on the lift because the stabilizer has to be pulled strongly to check the bushings, and this can lead to the fall of the machine. It is all the more undesirable to use jacks, because by pulling the stabilizer a couple of times, you will overturn the car on yourself. The consequences of such a development of events are not difficult to predict. Even a quick arrival of rescuers and an emergency delivery to the hospital will not allow you to avoid serious harm to health. If the rescuers are late, then you can die from crash syndrome, internal bleeding or pain shock.

The purpose of the visual inspection is to detect cracks and breaks in the bushings. If at least a small crack or rupture is found on any bushing, then the entire set must be replaced. For mechanical action, grasp the stabilizer near the bushing connecting it to the suspension, and begin to pull strongly in different directions. If there are squeaks or knocks, the bushings must be replaced. Do not be afraid to damage the bushings, body or stabilizer, because the loads while driving are much stronger than you can create, even pulling with all your might.

How to replace bushings front and back + Video

Unlike the check, which only needs to be done on a pit or overpass, the bushings can also be replaced on a lift or jack and two stands. For more information on how to properly raise a car on jacks, read the article (safety precautions for car repair and maintenance). To replace the bushings, you need the following tools:

• a set of socket and open-end wrenches;
• metal brush;
• soap solution;
• graphite grease.

Preparations for replacing stabilizer bushings are the same on all machines. Hang up the front or rear of the machine, make sure the machine does not fall, then remove the wheels and engine guard (if installed). After that, use an iron brush to clean all the bolts and nuts securing the bushings to the body or suspension. Often, the bushings that attach the stabilizer to the suspension are made in the form of a part with two holes and silent blocks installed inside. It is much easier to replace such bushings entirely, rather than individual silent blocks. It will cost a little more, but you will not have to worry about pressing out old silent blocks and pressing new ones.

The only difficulty that arises in the process of replacing the bushings is the difficulty in unscrewing the bolts securing the bushings and clamps to the body. It is especially difficult to carry out this work on a machine with a stretcher, so it is necessary to tune in to hard work in difficult conditions.

• First of all, disconnect the stabilizer from the suspension;
• Then unscrew the bolts securing it to the body and pull the stabilizer out;
• The old bushings are removed from the stabilizer, cleaned of dust and dirt and washed with soap. This procedure allows you to remove dust from the surface of the stabilizer, because dust is a strong abrasive that can quickly render a new bushing unusable;
• Now the new bushings are smeared from the inside with soapy water and put on the stabilizer;
• Then the stabilizer is inserted into place and screwed to the body and suspension.

It is advisable to lubricate the threads of bolts and nuts with graphite grease, this will keep them from sticking and facilitate the next replacement of the bushings. Then they put on the protection of the engine, wheels, tighten the nuts or bolts and remove the car from the stands or lift.

The suspension of any car is always the first to take the hit from road irregularities. Depending on the design and settings, the suspension assemblies are designed for the most effective damping of shock loads from uneven road surfaces, as well as for ensuring the controllability and stability of the car at high speeds when cornering, as well as when there is a sharp change in the trajectory of movement ("snake", detour of an obstacle ). And not only comfort, but also the safety of the driver and passengers depends on how efficient the suspension is. Each of the suspension elements fulfills its role. Trunnions and levers support the wheel in a given plane, providing unhindered rotation in two planes (when turning).

The principle of operation of stabilizers

The springs provide elasticity and return of the suspension elements to their original state, and the shock absorbers provide smooth running and damping of elastic vibrations of the body. At the same time, even the flawless operation of the listed elements is not enough to ensure safe movement. If you hang the car on a lift or, in addition to levers, springs and shock absorbers on any modern passenger car, you can see another element - the anti-roll bar. In the front axle suspension, the stabilizer is a curved arm that is attached with one shoulder to the wheel hub assembly and the other to the subframe. Mounts are not rigid, with the ability to move along the axis in one plane.

The principle of operation of the stabilizer is to redistribute the weight of the car body over the wheels when it rolls. For example, when cornering with a small radius or when there is a sharp change in trajectory. In the widely used MacPherson front suspension, the anti-roll bar is a torsion-bar linkage. This arm is rigidly connected to the body or subframe. The forces from the suspension are transmitted to it by means of additional levers pivotally connected to the suspension. Such a simple device is able to prevent a strong roll of the car (and, accordingly, its rollover), while maintaining a straight trajectory.

In the rear axle suspension, the anti-roll bar is usually installed on vehicles with four-wheel drive. On many rear-wheel drive vehicles with a solid rear axle beam, a jet rod (Panhard rod) acts as a stabilizer. Some all-wheel drive models of Japanese production of past years (Toyota Sprinter Carib, Land Cruiser 80, etc.), along with the Panhard rod, are equipped with a stabilizer - a curved rod that passes through the entire rear axle beam and is connected through short levers to the power elements of the body or frame. The principle of operation of the rear stabilizer is similar to the principle of operation of the front stabilizer: reducing the overturning moment of the body when it rolls.

Signs of malfunctioning stabilizer bushings

To dampen noise and vibration transmitted from the suspension to the body, all connections are secured through elastic elements. The stabilizer assemblies, which are attached to the body through metal bushings pressed into rubber, are no exception. As a result of many factors: poor condition of the road surface, the use of aggressive reagents, driving style, etc., the elastic elements of the stabilizer are destroyed. As a result, in the operation of the anti-roll bar, defects are observed, which manifest themselves in an increasing way over time.

The first harbingers of the need to replace the bushings are. In contrast to the knocking of shock absorbers, it is not only when driving through road irregularities, but also when cornering with a small radius on a flat road surface. They are caused by the appearance of backlash in the joints of the stabilizer arms as a result of wear of the bushings. If this is not given importance, then subsequently the "symptomatology" may increase.

The rattling knocks of the suspension will intensify and will accompany any movement of the suspension elements, as a result of further cracking and deformation of the rubber bushings. Along with this, the car will roll strongly in corners, the body will begin to sway along the transverse axis (with severe wear of the bushings on both wheels, or with a breakdown of the stabilizer beam). In some cases, the steering wheel starts to "play". The car loses the sharpness of control, becomes roll. It is possible to "yaw" and move towards a faulty suspension element not only when braking, but also when trying to change lanes and trajectory. Other abnormal noises and vibrations may occur in the suspension. Usually, most manufacturers recommend replacing the bushings after 30-40 thousand kilometers. But the surest signal to replace the stabilizer bushings is bounce and knocks when turning and body roll.

Suspension inspection

Before inspection, it is advisable to wash and clean all suspension elements, as well as their connections. By visual inspection of all elastic suspension elements, it is easy to find a damaged part. If the bushing is worn out or damaged, scuffs and cracks are visible on it, which are called "daisies" among professional auto mechanics for the characteristic patterns that form rubber elements when cracking. Loss of elasticity, "hardening" of rubber - is also a sure sign for the upcoming replacement. If for some reason (no lift, inspection hole or the nearest service station) it is not possible to inspect the stabilizer bushings, the degree of wear can be determined by the presence of knocks. It is enough to rest your hands on the upper part of the roof (B-pillar) and shake the car slightly from side to side. The presence of knocks, squeaks and their localization in the lower part of the suspension may serve as an indirect indication for replacing the elastic bushings.

For a more detailed inspection, it is necessary to hang the car on a lift, or drive it onto an overpass or inspection pit. To determine the state of the anti-roll bar elements, it is necessary to shake the joints of all suspension arms using a crowbar or a mounting blade. To do this, you need to rest the mounting blade in the place of attachment to the body, without damaging the protective coating and, with a slight wiggle, alternately press on all the stabilizer mounts to be checked. If during such manipulation in at least one joint there is a significant backlash, or vice versa - loss of elasticity - then half the battle has already been done! All that remains is to replace the worn out bushing.

Video - How to replace the stabilizer bushings with a VAZ

How to change stabilizer bushings

In order to replace the rubber bushings of the front stabilizer with minimal loss of time and less effort, it is better to carry out all work not on a lift or on a jack, when all the wheels of the car are hung, but on an inspection pit using a jack, supports or several jacks. Before replacing worn out stabilizer elements, for convenience, the car is first hung out on a lift or jack. After hanging out and securely fastening, to access the parts of the stabilizer, remove the wheel (wheels on one axle), wheel arches and crankcase protection. After that, loosen the stabilizer attachments, including the brackets for attaching to the body or subframe.

If the threaded connections do not lend themselves due to oxides or strong contamination, in order to avoid tearing off the edges or shearing off the bolts, they must be treated with a special liquid that facilitates loosening. Before the procedure for loosening the fasteners, it is necessary to raise the lower lever with a jack or put a stop. When replacing the bushings in the suspension of both wheels (which is preferable), it is necessary to raise with a jack or set stops on the axles of the front wheels.

This procedure is necessary to relieve the load on the stabilizer beam for easier bushing replacement. After all these conditions are met, you can remove the fasteners from the bracket and press out the bushing, then replace it with a new one. On most car models, the stabilizer bushings are split. This is done for the convenience of their installation. Stabilizer repair kits are made of rubber or polyurethane.

Original repair kits always contain the required amount of grease, which must be lubricated on the inner surface of the bushings before replacing. All assemblies of the stabilizer and other elements of the vehicle are assembled in reverse order. For a longer service life of the bushings, it is necessary to periodically clean the stabilizer brackets from sand and road dirt.