When to change the timing belt opel astra n. Reasons for a broken timing belt Opel Astra H

The timing belt is a very important unit in every car that needs to be given serious attention. Here you will be given the most detailed instructions for replacing the timing belt transmission with the Opel Astra h 1.8. You will find out when the belt needs to be replaced and what defects will indicate the need to replace it.

The timing unit supplies fuel and air to the cylinders and facilitates the removal of exhaust gases. This is due to the timely opening and closing of the valve system. The valve timing is determined by the cams located on the camshaft. The camshaft is connected to the crankshaft by means of a drive. While the camshaft only makes 1 revolution, the crankshaft already has time to crank 2 times. It turns out that one valve opening occurs per cycle.

As a drive on different cars, both chain and belt drives are used. On the Opel Astra, this is a belt, and its condition directly affects the operation of the entire mechanism. The belt drive is a ring with teeth on the inside. With their help, the belt is adhered to the gears. In addition, the belt is a drive for the oil pump. Thus, the belt drive receives a double load, which contributes to its early wear. Therefore, be sure to monitor the condition of the belt, because if it sags, the car will lose its power. But that's okay, but if the belt breaks, it will be a real problem. But if you are not interested in the condition of the belt drive for a long time, then a break may well occur. In this case, the synchronization of the movement of the shafts will cease to be performed, the valves will hit the pistons and real chaos will begin in the motor.

When to change the timing belt?

The manufacturer recommends replacing the timing belt drive after 150,000 km. Of course, this regulation should be adhered to, but it can still happen that the drive becomes unusable a little earlier than this period. This can be facilitated by many factors, including the use of a consumable in bad weather conditions. If you bought a belt on the market, then you could easily slip a low-quality product, which means that such a belt will not last long. Higher loads also have a very strong effect on the premature wear of the belt drive. If you use a trailer or like to ride on hills, this will definitely lead to earlier wear of the belt. And also, if you install a belt with violations, then it will also quickly wear out, and maybe even fly off.

That is why it is so important to check the condition of this consumable in a timely manner. This must be done at least after 25,000 km. Just open the hood and ask about the condition of the belt drive and the entire timing unit. Most likely, you will change not only the belt, but also some other consumables. You should definitely inquire about the condition of the tension roller. If there are backlashes on it, then this is a signal to replace it. And it's not worth talking about gaskets and oil seals - they will have to be changed. When assessing the condition of the assembly, you should pay attention to the presence of oil stains on the surface of the belt. If they are, it means that the tightness is broken, and the oil seals began to leak. If they are not replaced, they will cause oil to drip onto the new belt as well. And since the rubber is corroded by its impact, the belt will fail very quickly.

But what visual defects can be found on the belt, in addition to the already mentioned oil stains:

• folds, cracks and other signs of wear;
• delamination of the material;
• tooth wear;
• the presence of separately protruding threads at the ends of the product.

It is better to replace the belt on the overpass with all special devices. And here is what set of tools you need for this:

• socket wrenches;
• heads;
• torque wrench, a set of screwdrivers with different tips;
• jack;
• crank;
• device for fixing the shafts.

And, of course, you will need to prepare all the consumables that you intend to replace. It is better to buy them at trusted retail outlets, because low-quality material will fail much earlier. You certainly don't need to save on this.

Replacing the belt

1. First, de-energize the car by removing the negative terminal.
2. Turn off the air duct, the air filter sensor and the filter itself.
3. Remove the right wheel and place the car on a support.
4. Unscrew the fasteners and remove the mudguard on the right.
5. Dismantle the motor protection by substituting a wooden base under the power unit.
6. Now remove the motor support located on the right.

7. Remove the accessory belt after removing its tensioner.
8. Dismantle the upper timing case.
9. Now we need to fix the flywheel so that it does not rotate and unscrew the mounting bolt. He may not get out right away. In this case, press the brake in fifth gear. You can ask an assistant to press the brake.
10. After that, remove the crankshaft pulley, and screw the bolt into place.
11. Turn the crankshaft clockwise to set the engine to the TDM position. Before that, mark the camshafts. They should line up with the marks on the crankshaft.

12. Now we block the camshaft sprockets using a special lock.
13. Remove the timing belt with tensioner and rollers.
14. We install new parts in place of the old ones.

15. Check the labels again.
16. We tighten the new belt. We begin to do this with the crankshaft gear, then we start it by the pump and tension roller. Then we put it on the intake and exhaust camshafts.

17. Check the belt tension. It shouldn't bend too much if you press on it.
18. Turn the tensioner so that the mark located on it is aligned with the mark on the bracket.
19 Tighten the tension roller bolt.

20. Scroll the crankshaft to the right by 2 turns and check the marks.
21. We unlock the camshafts.
22. We start the engine and check its operation.

Video

The technical condition of the car must be monitored. This also applies to the timing unit. Regarding it, it is sometimes necessary to carry out routine procedures. In this article we will talk about how to replace the timing belt on the Opel Astra h z16xer. It will be about an independent replacement, without the involvement of specialists. Do you think this is impossible to do? You are wrong. Many car enthusiasts try to repair their car themselves, thereby saving money and gaining invaluable experience.

Thanks to the gas distribution mechanism, fuel is supplied to the cylinders and gases are removed. The camshaft ensures trouble-free operation of the valves. The gas distribution phases are determined using cams located on the camshaft. The order of movement of the cylinders is different for each engine. The camshaft is connected to the crankshaft by means of a drive. A belt is a hoop made of rubber with a metal seal inside. The belt has teeth with which it meshes with the gears.

Some engines use chains as a drive. Nowadays, chains are almost never used. Increasingly, manufacturers prefer to equip the timing belt of their cars with belt drives. The belt also acts as a pump drive for supplying oil to the system. Because of this, the loads on it increase, which ultimately leads to wear. A worn-out belt cannot be used, as this can lead to serious damage to the mechanism, which can only be eliminated with the help of specialists. In addition, such repairs will cost a lot of money. What exactly happens if the belt breaks? After a break, the operation of the system will be completely disrupted, the valves will hit the pistons, which will cause their deformation.

Replacement schedule

That is why it is so important to diagnose the condition of the belt drive in time. This should be done at least after 25,000 km. The manufacturer recommends replacing the belt drive after 150,000 km. But for some reason, the belt will have to be changed a little earlier. But what factors will affect the reduction in belt drive service:

• a substandard consumable was originally installed;
• aggressive driving;
• the belt will wear out faster if the car is operated under constant loads;
• incorrect installation of the belt drive can also affect its early wear.

When inspecting the belt, you should pay attention to the presence of the following defects:

• the surface looks clearly worn - cracks, dents and bulges are present on it;
• chips are visible on the teeth;
• traces of oil are visible on the belt;
• separate threads appeared at the ends;
• the material began to delaminate.

Separately, it should be said about the oil traces on the surface of the belt. This can only mean one thing - as a result of a violation of the sealing, oil began to leak and gets on the belt. Oil destroys rubber, and such a belt will definitely not last long. If an oil leak is found, the oil seals must be replaced along with the belt. And that's not all - you may also need to replace the gaskets and the tensioner roller.

If you decide to change the belt yourself, prepare the necessary tools and consumables. There is no need to save on consumables, as they will wear out much earlier. By the way, if you change the pump along with the belt, buy antifreeze, since the old one will have to be drained.

Replacement steps

1. First you need to de-energize the car by disconnecting the left battery terminal.
2. Remove the air filter. This must be done in order to provide access to all nodes. Before doing this, be sure to disconnect the air duct.
3. Now remove the right wheel.
4. Unscrew the bolts and remove the mudguard.
5. Raise the engine with a jack, put a wooden base under it and remove the engine protection.
6. Remove the bracket and engine mount located on the right side.

7. Loosen the ancillary drive tensioner and dismantle the drive.
8. Remove the crankshaft sensor.
9. Remove the upper timing case.
10. Now we need to fix the flywheel and unscrew the bolt that secures it. You may not be able to do this manually. In this case, you need to sharply apply the brake in fifth gear. To do this, we need an assistant.
11. Remove the crankshaft pulley and then screw the bolt back into place.
12. Turn the crankshaft clockwise to set the engine to TDC mode. For this, the marks on the camshafts must be aligned. Do not forget about the marks on the crankshaft.

13. We take the retainer and use it to block the camshafts.
14. Loosen the tension roller and move it to the side.
15. Now we proceed to the direct dismantling of the timing belt.
16. Before installing a new belt, be sure to check the coil position again.
17. Tightening the new belt should start from the crankshaft. Then the consumable starts up behind the pump and tensioner roller. The belt is then slid onto the camshafts.
18. Check the belt tension after installing it. Press down on the belt, while it should not bend too much.
19. We fix the tension roller.
20. Scroll the crankshaft clockwise 2 turns. This is done to align the marks.
21. We unlock the camshafts.
22. Install everything else in reverse order and check engine operation.

Video

Finally, an old friend of mine changed his rusty bucket to a normal car and immediately came to our sales post. So, we have an Opel Astra H 1.6 Z16XER replacement of the timing belt, rollers, oil and filters.

Since this is an Opel, in addition to the usual keys, we also need a Torx head, but they have long been in every tool kit. We will also make a lock for variable valve timing couplings from a bolt for eight and two washers, if this method seems unreliable to someone, then you can buy locks in any online store for only 950 rubles. Let's make a reservation right away that if the car is equipped with a manual transmission, then there will be no difficulties, but if the robot, then you will have to either tinker with the crankshaft lock, or use a pneumatic wrench. We do not change the pump as it is driven by the alternator belt. It took an hour and a half and one cup of tea to replace the timing belt.

Actually, the patient himself.

Under the hood is a 1.6-liter engine named Z16XER.

First, we disconnect the air filter with pipes from the throttle valve.

We remove the front right wheel, side plastic protection and jack up the engine through the plate. We remove the alternator belt, with a nineteen key, for a special ledge, turn the tension roller, thereby weaken the belt. In the photo, he has already been removed.

Remove the engine mount.

We dismantle the support.

Remove the upper timing belt cover.

Remove the middle part of the plastic protection.

We set the top dead center. We turn the crankshaft by the bolt, always clockwise, until the marks on the crankshaft pulley coincide with the lower protection. Not very visible, but finding them will not be difficult.

At the top of the camshaft couplings, the marks should also match.

Unscrew the crankshaft pulley bolt. If the transmission is manual, then this procedure will not pose any special problems. We substitute stops under the wheels, turn on the fifth, insert a specially trained screwdriver into the brake disc under the caliper and unscrew the bolt with a slight movement of the hand. But if the robot is like in our case, then a wrench helps us, but if there is no current, we make a crankshaft pulley lock. In the corner we drill two holes for eight and insert two bolts there, tightening them with nuts, as a result we insert these bolts into the holes in the pulley. You will get the dimensions yourself by measuring the distance between the holes. In the photo, the latch is shown schematically, in a red rectangle, any holes can be used.

Remove the pulley and the lower timing belt guard. On the left we see a tension roller, on the right a bypass.

We check the camshaft marks and, if they are gone, let them down. On the crankshaft sprockets, the marks, in turn, must also coincide.

We install our Russian retainer on the camshafts and mark the old belt, just in case.

With a hexagon, we turn the timing belt tension roller counterclockwise, thereby loosening the belt and removing the belt and rollers.

Let's get started with the installation.

We put the new rollers in place, and the tension roller has a protrusion on the body, which must fall into the groove during installation.

Here in this groove.

Once again we check all the marks and install a new timing belt, first on the crankshaft sprocket, bypass roller, camshafts and pulling the tension roller onto it. Do not forget about the direction of rotation indicated on the belt. We remove our retainer.

We check the marks and, having replaced the lower protective cover and the crankshaft pulley, we turn the engine two turns and again check all the marks. If everything is the same, install all the remaining parts in the reverse order of removal. In principle, there is nothing difficult here, the main thing is attentiveness.

Video of replacing the timing belt Opel Astra H Z16XER

That's all for today, until we meet again.

Good luck on the road. No nail, no wand.

The general principle can be found by looking at the photo report, but the video demonstration has a significant plus. Therefore, after watching a short video, you will surely have no questions about the correctness of replacing the timing belt with an Opel Astra with your own hands.

In principle, there are no difficulties, but everything must be done very carefully, otherwise trouble may happen.

When to change the timing belt Astra H

The exact frequency of replacing the timing belt has not been established, the maintenance regulations in the user manual advise check the belt every 30,000 km run or every two years. If the inspection reveals scuffs, cracks, folds, undercuts, tooth wear, delamination and traces of oil, the belt must be replaced.

If traces of oil are found on the timing belt, the belt must be changed immediately, the oil quickly corrodes the rubber. The reason why oil gets on the belt must also be immediately eliminated, usually the oil seals are to blame.

You also need to check the belt tension. With proper tension, it rotates no more than 90 degrees, with a finger pressure of 15-20 N (1.5-2 kgf).

How to change the timing belt Astra H

We release access to the belt from above, then from below, remove the belt of the attachments, remove the pulley. Next, we set the TDC and jack up the engine to remove the engine support (otherwise the belt cannot be removed or installed). But before removing the old belt, you need to fix the shafts and if there is no special device in the garage for that, you can do with a bolt from washers.

The video instruction is very short without showing the details when replacing, but the main points are fully disclosed. Watch the video to the end and replacing the timing belt with the Opel Astra will be within your power with your own hands.

When changing the belt, we must also change the rollers (bypass and tension).

We begin to put on the belt from the bottom.

The gas distribution mechanism of the Z 16 XER, Z 18 XER, Z 20 LER and Z 20 LEH engines is driven by a toothed rubber reinforced belt, and the Z 14 XEP engine is driven by a chain. Replacing the timing belt refers to routine maintenance and is described in this subsection. The chain is replaced during maintenance or overhaul of the engine, if necessary.

km of run. The timing belt is also replaced if, upon inspection, you find:

- traces of oil on any belt surface;

- traces of wear on the toothed surface, cracks, undercuts, folds and peeling of fabric from rubber;

- cracks, folds, depressions or bulges on the outer surface of the belt;

- loosening or delamination on the end surfaces of the belt.

A belt with traces of engine oil on any of its surfaces must be replaced, as oil quickly destroys rubber. The cause of oil getting on the belt (usually a leakage of the crankshaft and camshaft oil seals) must be eliminated immediately.

Work on a viewing ditch, overpass or, if possible, on a lift.

Proceed as follows to replace the timing belt for the Z 16 XER engine.

You will need: TORX keys E14, E18, T50, hex key "6", socket head "11".

6. Remove the two bolts securing the front cover of the timing drive ...

7 .... and remove the cover.

8. If you are not removing the belt for replacement, mark the direction of movement of the belt when the engine is running with a felt-tip pen, so that this direction does not change when reinstalling.

9. Remove the crankshaft pulley mounting bolt ...

The crankshaft pulley retaining bolt is tightened to a very high torque.

In order to secure the crankshaft from turning, turn on the 5th gear and press the brake pedal (an assistant must do this).

11. Remove the bolt securing the tension roller of the accessory drive belt ...

12 .... and remove the video.

13. Remove the four bolts securing the lower timing cover ...

14 .... and remove the cover.

15. Loosen the intermediate roller mounting bolt, but do not remove it at all.

16. Loosen the tension of the timing belt, for which, with the key A, turn the roller clockwise until it stops, overcoming the resistance of the roller spring ...

17 .... and then, while holding the tensioner roller in this position, unscrew the bolt securing the intermediate roller and remove it.

18. Remove the belt from the crankshaft toothed pulley ...

19… .and remove the timing belt.

Whenever you replace the timing belt, replace ...

... and the intermediate rollers, as their resource has already been reduced and when installing the old rollers after a relatively short period of time, it may be necessary to re-disassemble to replace them. In addition, there is a high risk of destruction of rollers that have been running for a long time, which will lead to emergency engine damage. Removing the intermediate roller is described above in this subsection (see paragraphs 15-17) ...

… To remove the tensioning roller, unscrew the bolt of its fastening.

20. Install the rollers, if removed, in the reverse order of removal.

21. Check the coincidence of the timing marks of the crankshaft and camshafts (see. Installing the piston of the first cylinder in the TDC compression stroke position).

22. Place the belt on the crankshaft toothed pulley. Place the drive belt over the intermediate roller and pull it over the camshaft pulleys.

Insert the rear branch of the belt by the tension roller, having previously turned it clockwise until it stops (see item 16).

After stopping the impact on the tension roller, under the action of the spring, it will take the position necessary for normal belt tension.

23. Screw the pulley retaining bolt into the crankshaft shank and turn the crankshaft two turns so that the idler pulley provides the nominal belt tension.

24. Check the coincidence of the timing marks of the crankshaft and camshafts. If there is a mismatch, re-install the belt.

25. Install all previously removed parts in the reverse order of removal.

Proceed as follows to replace the timing belt for the Z 18 XER engine.

3. Remove the right front wheel.

5. Set the piston of the 1st cylinder to the TDC position of the compression stroke.

6. Remove the three bolts 2 (Fig. 4.10) securing the front cover 1 of the timing drive and remove the cover.

Rice. 4.10. Removing the front cover of the drive of the timing mechanism of the engine Z 18 XER: 1 - the front cover of the drive of the timing mechanism; 2 - bolts of fastening of the front cover.

7. If you are not removing the belt for replacement, mark the direction of movement of the belt when the engine is running with a felt-tip pen so that this direction does not change when reinstalling.

The teeth of the timing belt are run in to the crankshaft and camshaft toothed pulleys on one side.

Changing the direction of the belt will lead to accelerated wear due to repeated running-in.

8. Remove the tension roller of the accessory drive belt by unscrewing the bolt a (see Fig. 4.8) of its fastening.

9. Remove the bolt 3 (Fig. 4.11) securing the pulley 4 of the crankshaft and remove the pulley.

Rice. 4.11. Removing the crankshaft pulley and the lower cover of the timing mechanism drive of the Z 18 XER engine: 1 - lower cover of the timing mechanism drive; 2 - bolt of fastening of the bottom cover; 3 - crankshaft pulley mounting bolt; 4 - crankshaft pulley.

10. Remove the bolt 2 securing the lower cover 1 of the timing mechanism and remove the cover.

11. Disconnect the phase 2 sensor from the cylinder head (Fig. 4.12) by unscrewing the two bolts of its fastening.

12. Place a secure base under the engine.

13. Remove the right support 1 (see Fig. 4.12) of the power unit suspension by unscrewing three bolts 3 of its fastening to the engine and three bolts 4 of fastening to the body.

Rice. 4.12. Removing the phase sensor and the right engine mounting support Z 18 XER: 1 - the right engine mounting support; 2 - phase sensor; 3 - bolts of fastening of the right support of the suspension of the power unit to the engine; 4 - bolts of fastening of the right support of the suspension of the power unit to the body.

14. Loosen the tension of the timing belt, for which loosen the bolt 2 (Fig. 4.13) fastening the tension roller, and turn the roller with a wrench 3 counterclockwise until the pointer 2 (Fig. 4.14) of the tensioner is set in the extreme left position. Tighten the tension roller mounting bolt.

Rice. 4.13. Loosen the tension of the timing belt of the engine Z 18 XER: 1 - tension roller; 2 - tension roller mounting bolt; 3 - hex key.

Rice. 4.14. Pointer of the adjusting unit of the tension roller of the timing mechanism of the engine Z 18 XER: B - the position of the pointer when installing a new belt; A - the position of the pointer when installing a used belt; 1 - mark for tension control when installing a used belt; 2 - indicator of the adjusting unit; 3 - mark for tension control when installing a new belt.

15. Remove the belt from the crankshaft toothed pulley and remove the timing belt.

At each replacement of the timing belt, replace its tension and intermediate rollers, as well as the water pump (the water pump pulley acts as a second intermediate roller), since their resource has already been reduced and when installing the old rollers, it may be necessary to re-disassemble after a relatively short period of time. their replacement. In addition, there is a high risk of destruction of rollers that have been running for a long time, which will lead to emergency engine damage.

16. Install the rollers and water pump, if removed, in the reverse order of removal.

17. Check the coincidence of the timing marks of the crankshaft and camshafts.

18. Place the belt on the crankshaft toothed pulley. Place the drive belt over the intermediate roller and pull it over the camshaft pulleys.

Tighten the driven strand of the belt and slide it over the water pump toothed pulley, then slide it over the tensioner roller.

19. Loosen the bolt 2 (see Fig. 4.13) fastening the tension roller and turn the roller with a wrench 3 clockwise until the pointer 2 (see Fig. 4.14) of the tensioner is set against the mark 1 ("USED" - used belt) or 3 (NEW - new belt). Tighten the tension roller mounting bolt.

20. Screw the pulley bolt into the crankshaft shank and turn the crankshaft two turns so that the belt returns to its normal position on the pulleys and rollers.

21. Check the coincidence of the timing marks of the crankshaft and camshafts.

If there is a mismatch, re-install the belt.

22. Loosen bolt 2 (see. Fig. 4.13) fastening the tension roller and specify the degree of belt tension (see item 19).

23. Install all previously removed parts in the reverse order of removal.

The procedure for replacing the timing belt of the Z 20 LER and Z 20 LEH engines does not fundamentally differ from the procedure for similar operation on the Z 18 XER engine, but has the following differences.

1. Tension roller 1 (Fig. 4.15) of the accessory drive belt is attached with two bolts 2.

Rice. 4.15. Removing the tension roller of the drive belt of auxiliary units of engines Z 20 LER and Z 20 LEН: 1 - tension roller; 2 - tension roller mounting bolts.

2. Pulley 2 (Fig. 4.16) of the crankshaft is attached with four bolts 3. To remove it, unscrew these bolts with a wrench 1, keeping the crankshaft from turning with a socket head or a spanner wrench 4.

Rice. 4.16. Removing the crankshaft pulley for engines Z 20 LER and Z 20 LEH: 1, 4 - keys; 2 - crankshaft pulley; 3 - crankshaft pulley mounting bolts (the fourth bolt is not visible, since it is closed with key 4).

3. To remove the bottom cover 1 (Fig. 4.17) of the timing mechanism drive, it is necessary to unscrew the two bolts 2 of its fastening.

Rice. 4.17. Removing the lower cover of the gas distribution mechanism drive of engines Z 20 LER and Z 20 LEН: 1 - lower cover of the gas distribution mechanism drive; 2 - bolts of fastening of the lower cover of the drive of the gas distribution mechanism.

4. Pointer of tension roller adjustment unit can be in two versions. With option A (Fig. 4.18), to adjust the belt tension, the tension roller is turned clockwise until the pointer 1 coincides with the center of mark 2 (triangular cutout at the base of the adjusting device) when installing a new belt or 4 mm to the left of this position when installing the former in operation. With option B, to adjust the belt tension, the tension roller is turned clockwise until the tensioner pointer is against the "USED" (used belt) or "NEW" (new belt) mark.

Rice. 4.18. Pointer of the adjusting unit of the tensioning roller of the drive of the gas distribution mechanism of engines Z 20 LER and Z 20 LEH: A, B - versions of the pointer of the adjusting unit of the tensioning roller; 1 - pointer of the tension roller adjustment unit; 2 - labels.

Watch an interesting video on this topic