How to adjust the ignition on the engine. Ignition adjustment VAZ. Signs of late ignition

The basic requirements are listed below.

Creating a spark in the desired cylinder based on the order of cylinders.
The moment of ignition should be timely. The spark should appear at the moment of ignition in accordance with the optimal angle of its advance, depending on the speed of the engine and the load on it.
The energy of sparks should be sufficient. The amount of such energy depends on the composition, temperature and density of fuel.
Ensuring continuous functioning during operation.

Faults in the ignition system cause various malfunctions when starting and operating the engine. Therefore, if you do not know how to adjust the ignition, then these malfunctions may interfere with the inclusion of the engine.

The most basic problems are:

the inability to start the engine;
unevenness in the engine or its termination;
detonation, which is caused by an incorrect ignition moment, often leading to premature wear engine;
high electromagnetic interference causing violations in electronic systems.

If you find a knock, detonation or too late ignition, then it must be adjusted. Some modern cars ourselves will ignite you about such a need.

How to put ignition

Before putting the ignition, you need to remember that during any installation work with the car, all removed parts must be cleaned from dirt and fat. Also, it will not be superfluous to clean the scale, but to facilitate the reading of the indicators - to designate the central label with a white marker corresponding to the NTC.

Do not use clothes that can be stuck between aggregates under the hood.

All internal parts of the traver are kept under the voltage of the ignition system. If the rubber is faulty, then an attempt to adjust the candles can lead to electric shock. A parking brake should be raised in the car to prevent its rolling.

What equipment will need?

The complete list of the necessary equipment is presented below:

curve starter or ratchet key;
flat screwdriver equipped with a wide powerful sting;
horn key 12 × 13;
a set of different probe;
rubber cone tube;
candle wrench;
manual for the operation and repair of the car from the manufacturer;
stroboscope;
protective gloves and closed shoes;
means for degreasing surfaces and lubrication;
fabric rags and paper towels.

How to adjust the ignition yourself

For correct operation, the engine is needed to at a particular point (the time of the piston adjustment to the VTT) formed a spark between the spark plug electrodes, flamming the fuel before the piston approaches the NTC, and the gas will push it down.

To adjust this moment in the ignition system, a special distributor is provided, which is based on the runner and the interrupter's contact group. The most important adjustments cam ignition There are a gap between the cams of the interrupter, the angle of the closed state of contacts and the moment when the spark lights up.

Preparatory work

Before installing the ignition, make sure that the following conditions are followed:

Spark plugs must function properly and be ready to use. If there is an oil nagar, you can resort to the calcination. Entry paper is not categorically recommended, as special spraying may be damaged. Small abrasive after removing Nagara may not get there where necessary. As a result, the candle will be unsuitable for further use. Do not try to make a candle of hot. The main thing is to ensure the burnout of all oil sediments. The adjustment of the gap of the candles should be carried out evenly, guided by the instruction manual for the car. Use wire probe.
You must check the status of the interrupter's contacts. In the presence of traces of the burnout of metal and corrosion, it is recommended to replace the contacts to avoid short circuit. Experienced motorists recommend the contacts of the company BERU.
The capacitor is recommended to check for charge and discharge using the tester. Current runoff should occur slowly and smoothly. Use the arrow tester for this.
Make sure the wire contact from the ignition coil. You can check the coil itself using a tester, a pressure gauge or on the booth in the auto shop (read more about that).
The ignition coil, the rubber and the distributor cover must be cleaned. Boldly change the lid if you have a nagar on it.
It is necessary to estimate the condition of the carburetor. If it does not react when adjusting, it must be replaced.
The performance of the performance of the vacuum focus is necessary. The movement of the drive should be carried out without jamming, the walls of the tube must be thick without cracks and breakthroughs.

Next you need to proceed to adjust. To begin with, connect the stroboscope, connecting the wires of its power to the battery terminals. Attach the strobe sensor to the high-voltage wire of the candle of the first of cylinders. If this stage causes you questions - refer to the instruction manual. Streloboscope short flashes will illuminate the scale located on the rotating flywheel, highlighting the desired label. This label corresponds to the ignition advance angle in which the candle produces the spark engine needed to activate the engine. At that moment, when the spark is produced, the signal from the sensor enters the strobe. The device is turned on and illuminates the numeric value that has occurred at the moment.

To work, you will need the help of a third-party person who has basic ideas about driving. Ask you to add revolutions by the engine. When your assistant will press the gas pedal, you will watch the scale at the light of the strobe. Keep your hands at a distance from moving parts of the engine. In general, the engine is worth allowing to cool before it.

After that, send the light of the strobe to the flywheel and find a numeric value. The outbreaks of the strobe must grab this value, despite the rotation of the flywheel. This numerical value corresponds to the corner of the ignition advance in degrees.

Remember the position of this value to the left and right from zero. The moment of the appearance of the spark is somewhat varied with increased revs.

Since the ignition works nonlinearly, it should be in the order of things. With increasing speed in such an angle, amendment is made. To determine the overall angle, it is necessary to disperse the engine at least up to 3,500 revolutions per minute.

When the engine is running, the vacuum controller makes amendments to the numeric ignition advance angle. Be sure to disconnect it before starting the engine. If you do not know the exact numerical value of the optimal ignition ahead - contact an auto mechanic for help or look into the directory.

Before adjusting, weaken the bolt on which the dispenser's housing is mounted for free rotation. To adjust the angle, rotate the rubber in different directions to achieve early or late ignition.

Properly exhibited ignition - the key to the correct operation of the engine and its trouble-free start. Among other things, the fuel consumption and dynamic indicators of the car depends on the moment of ignition, due to the non-correct ignition, which may result in irreversible consequences and. To the question of how to set the ignition, each motorist has its own answer, some do it on the "peephole", others use a stroboscope, there are also those who fundamentally use the services of autosers. Whatever it was, the main thing is the result, and then with what you did it no longer has a fundamental importance.

In order to set the ignition on the VAZ 2106 you will need:

Key on "13";
Control (voltmeter or 12 volts light bulb);
Candle wrench.

Ignition is set on the first or fourth cylinder, today we will look at the first option.

Ignition moment VAZ 2106 Tests on the labels on the lid, there are three labels, short medium and long.

The short label corresponds to the angle of ahead of equal to 10 °.
Average - 5 °.
Long - 0 °.

NMT (upper dead dot) is marked on the rim of pulley, and there is a special influx on the pulley in front of this label.

Configure or set the ignition, consider it the same. Until.
Usually the "problem" is seen so. In order not to invent any abstract stories, take the first that already exist. History from the site azlk-team.ru.
It is not even a story, but a simple question.

Further, in the subject will be your answers, I will try to explain what this ignition plant I see myself. To understand that the answer to the question will be much and they can be different, we give one of them.

It seems there is an answer, but he adds a few more new questions. Everyone finds for itself a convenient way to install the initial moment of ignition based on what he knows on this topic. I will write a little in my own way. Separately stands out. This produces ignition installation when the engine is running. on the idling . Those, correctly exhibit tapering and choose the speed of revolutions "idle and no more." So always accepted.

The record will not turn out to be short and not to make it.
At first, as it were, I answered the questions myself. But this will also not be a full answer. It's easier to start on points, and then the rest.
………….
1. The wakkumnik does not need to be removed at the time of the ignition (remove - it means to remove the tube from it and exclude its work).
But. It is necessary to pre-check at idle it changes the engine turnover or not. If it does not change, then you can and need to regulate the ignition with it and it is correct.
If the turnover changes (ie, remove the tube - the turns fall, put the phone back - the momentum is increasing), then alas, there is a problem. The problem will be called "Vacuumnik Wrong, it is necessary to replace it."
We will set ignition already with a connected vaccine, knowing that it is incorrect. But there is no other exit yet.

2. Using a strobe.
I will say a terrible vein, but it is not required to place the initial moment of the ignition. You can do without it without lamps. But it's easier and faster with him. Why it is optional ...
All the same after the "accurate ignition of the strobe" with a probability of 90% will be moved to the side. Which way is just riding. More often - towards earlier.If the machine is posted on the go. But sometimes in the direction of late - when "fingers" are confused on the go.

3. "Instructions and especially for contactless ...".
There is no difference - contact ignition or contactless - the principle is one.
The instruction may be better, if it is prior explanation.
Further the main text. While nothing concrete wrote.
- How to set "for rumor"
- How to set on the light bulb (only contact system ignition)
- How to put out without a light bulb, on the "spark"
- How to adjust "on the go." This is not a completely case "Financial transmission and a recessed gas pedal". Although this, too, will not be mistaken.
Next may answer why no method does not help and does not help the stroboscope.
Let's go on the second circle.
1. The vocabulary at idle should not start working, so let it remain connected. What to do if it works (changes turnover when connecting it). We must prepare it just to change, it is problematic. It costs too soft spring and the minimum vacuum at idle turns already makes it shrink and pull the ignition offset. It is also worth considering the question whether the second end of the tube coming from the vacuine to the karyrator is connected. It goes only on the minimum hole in the carburetor chamber. Now (at idle) is a hole from the inside of the carburetor wellclosed (without details) to the end throttle valve Or this damper is still lower and closed (there is no big discharge). When the position of the flap change (the gas pedal will be pressed) Then the first strong vacuum acting through the tube on the spring of the vacuum regulator will appear.

2. Let's try when installing the ignition to do without a strobe.
- on the contact system You can use a "light bulb". Those one end of the automotive carrying to hang on the terminal from the side of the battle, and the second to the ground. We remove the cover from the contact timebl., Turn on the ignition, hand to the right (clockwise) removes the back of the runner's move and grind the trambler clockwise until the moment of the sunbathing of our light bulb.
In the literature it is written so (so that no one is mistaken)

... rotate the dispenser's body counterclockwise to the closure of the interrupter contacts. In this case, the test lamp should go out. Having finished your hands behind the slider, attach a slight force in the direction of the clockwise direction to it (to eliminate the gaps in the drive mechanism) and in the same direction gently rotate the distributor body until the control lamp is sunbathing ...

In general, the instruction in the literature is so, but I did not do so long, so I checked on the original source.
Check is precisely such. It will be a moment for fixing the battle. The trambler is fixed, click on the contacts of the contact group. The light bulb should go out at each press, let go - lights up. So everyone was done on the book, we put the lid, we start the engine.

The method is "universal", but on its contakory it was not necessary to use. My car starts.

I used to do so.
Unscrew the first candle (or just take a new one) and put it on high-voltage wire first cylinder. We put the connected candle on the valve cover. We turn on the ignition and with a twilight (or complete silence) with a clockwork or a large engine ratchet key. When the ignition label turns out to be close, we can turn more slowly and wait for the moment when it becomes barely a marked spark or a weak rush.
Stop and look at the position of our tag on the pulley. She reached her place (opposite the pin) or did not reach. If not reached, then I spark slipped too early and we need to turn the battlecliner counterclockwise, that is, in the direction of the ignition. And vice versa….
You can slightly turn the tramber and repeat almost two turns. Then I am asked again.
As it came out, it came out. On the third attempt of checking, I usually lacked a spark strength. I started the engine for a couple of minutes, accumulated the power of the spark and then again continued "Searches".
Absolutely the same, if you just keep the tip of the candle wire at the minimum distance from the mass (body or valve lid). But this is not convenient, although the spark is more noticeable (and the more very sensitive for the hands).

As without a light bulb, in sensation or rumor. Put the bar in approximately proper position And we start the engine. If it is not immediately started - we turn the battlecliner clockwise onto 5mm (it's all to look from above). We get up again. I started right away - well. Turn off the engine and make a label on the housing (fine chisel or scolding, or make a scratch on the housing of the distress and part of the sector, into which the trambler is inserted). Now we know that in this position, our engine will always start.
Weching a 3-5 mm tramber clogwise (this is done even more earlier ignition). We try to start. It is necessary in the adjustments to try to determine "our limit". If now we start and the engine is periodically how - as if in something "stuck", then it is now worth too earlier ignition. Early spark pushes pistons back, although they have not reached their top position. This is not permissible, we simply note the new position of the throat, and I remember it in such a position, you will never leave it that will never.
We are looking for the optimal between "Never" and "the engine will start immediately."

Then you always need checking and updating the ignition on the go. It has the value of the progress of the position of the speaker in every 2 mm. Therefore, we need a good mark of the position of the tramblor - a chisel or scolder.
Check the ignition on a completely warm car. It is not necessary to look for "fingers" ringing from the pedal on the fourth gear at a speed of 40km / hour. This is more famous for violence, although it, of course, metal and everything will endure. The ringing is long or short is not the main thing. We have a trambler approximately correctly, it remains to correct its position by 2-3mm. You yourself understand when it is better to pull and does not ring. And when, on the contrary, the thrust is slightly worse and the car is a little poses.
You can simultaneously note the engine work on the "rumor".
If the engine unlocked and switch to the next gear, then at this moment we have two extreme "incorrect" sound manifestations.
a) The engine does not want to drop fast rev. We do not gas, and he has not yet responded to the reset, the turnover holds for some more. It means too late ignition.
b) The engine instantly loses turns when dumping the gas pedal, plus the ripping during acceleration - this means that it costs a little early ignition.
But this is the last "rumor" more for "our knowledge", for the conviction of themselves, in the fact that we have not previously mistaken.
Now the whole "theory" is checking in practice and
…
enriched in knowledge, then try to understand. Why in some cases none of these methods does not help. And even the master with a stroboscope does not help.
This is imperative, but a little later.

Posted on December 11. Not yet ready for details. The main position is
- there are the batches that Do not allow Ignition. such so that everything suited. At the same time - easy launch, traction on the bottoms, the lack of "ringing", excellent dynamics at the maximum speed.
Therefore, they are trying to twist the throat the right-remotely, without having results.
Exit only two:
1. Buy another trambler.
2. Adjust (or set up) the trambler. With this second concept harder. Many do not believe in it.
….
More, for winter it is worth adding that sometimes it makes sense ignition to do a little later, with a loss of speakers.
But this is when strong frosts and an accumulator are weak, it is difficult for him to overcome the minimum "stirring" at the plant.

There are no similar entries yet.

Having learned how to set a rubber on your car, you can not worry about the clear start of the engine, whether it is anywhere. You can also save on a stuff, because the fuel consumption increases from the wrong ignition several times. Finally, the traction characteristics of the car will increase, and you can no longer be afraid that detonation will appear.

Ignition for two scenarios

ATTENTION! Found a completely simple way to reduce fuel consumption! Do not believe? Auto mechanic with 15 years old also did not believe, until he tried. And now it saves 35,000 rubles per year in gasoline!

Each modern motorist has its own answer regarding how to set a rubber. Some use a stroboscopic tool, others carry out an eye surgery, but others use only a hundred services.

If you wish to learn to independently set the ignition, you will need to stock up with multiple tools. The key is required to 13, voltmeter and tool for removing the spark plugs (candle).

Properly exhibited ignition provides a landmark on the 1st or 4th cylinder power plant. Consider how to do it in the first case.

When setting the moment of ignition, it is also necessary to navigate the marks on the timing lid. There are 3 marks:

Long risk coinciding with an angle of ahead of 0 degrees.
Average risk - with an angle of 5 degrees.
Short risk - with an angle of 10 degrees.

Laying on the 1st Candle

NMT is indicated on the rim of the crankshaft pulley, and on the hub, directly opposite the risks, there is a special influx.

So, that's what you need to do:

Remove the 1st SZ, and then close the hole with a plug.
Turn the crankshaft pulley before the compression torque appears. In other words, while a rubber stopper, put in place of the candle, will not begin to be squeezed out.
Continue scrolling while the crankshaft risk does not fit with a signpost on the Timing Cover.

Attention. Experts advise - if the car owner floods gasoline with an octane number above the 95th, then combined with a short risk. If standard fuel, then combine from the middle risk, with an angle of 5 degrees. If 72th or lower is poured, then it is necessary to combine with a long label corresponding to 0 degrees.

After that, it will be necessary to relax the latches-locks, remove the lid.

After the crankshaft pulley is verified as it should, the rotor will go to the zone when its contact will be viewed in the direction of the first cylinder. When combining all tags, it is recommended to mentally draw the axis on the latches of the lid. The line should be clearly parallel to the axis of the power plant. If this is not the case, the preparatory operation must be continued.

The trimbler nut is unscrewed.
The rubber turns up.
The axis of the rotor after rotation is placed in parallel with respect to the power plant.
The rubber is placed in place, the lock is delayed, but not to the end.

Now is the time to proceed directly to the ignition process.

One end of the voltmeter with low-voltage wire is connected to the output of the ignition coil, the other with the "mass".
Ignition turns on.
The rubber is gently rotated clockwise until the indicator stops flashing.
Now the rubber rotates against emergency, and as soon as the indicator lights up, the distributor should be fixed finally.
Ignition turns off.
The cover of the distributor is placed in place.

It's time to check how everything is done.

Motor starts, the car starts movement.
It is recommended to accelerate up to 45 km / h, after which put on the 4th transmission and instantly "gazal".
After a few seconds, detonation (cotton and ringing evidence) should begin, which will disappear as the car accelerates.

There are several versions. If, as the car accelerates, detonation arose, but did not disappear - the ignition is most likely "early". To eliminate this lapt, you have to trust the rubber clockwise on a half or full division.

You can judge the "late" ignition in the event that detonation does not appear at all. In this case, the rubber rotates counterclockwise on half or full division.

Attention. After completing the ignition adjustment, it is recommended to mark the position of the average tag relative to the block on the traver housing.

4th cylinder

This instruction does not imply the use of special meters, control lamps or stroboscope. Definitely, if the final check is carried out on a moving car, all this is superfluous.

We prepare the following:

Keys at 13 and 38 (cape).

Step-by-step instructions on the placement:

The car is put on the "handbrake".
The moment of the advance is set under a certain octane number Fuel (more about this was mentioned above).
Tags on the crankshaft pulley and the front cover of the power plant are combined by slow rotation of the crankshaft for the ratchet.
The rubber is placed parallel to the motor with his latch. In this case, the contact runner must be directed towards the 4th cylinder (this can be determined by the distributor lid).

Attention. The dispenser housing should be slightly pressing the holder.

Ignition turns on.
The rubber rotates clockwise to the opening of the contacts until the spark appears between them.

The appearance of the spark and is the right moment of ignition. In this position, the rubber should be secure.

It is noteworthy that in some cases, with a competently delivered advance angel, the functioning of the power plant on the XX is clearly not impressive. In this case, inexperienced drivers begin to twist the rubber again, shifting the position on the "early". Of course, doing so is not worth it. It is better to pay attention to the adjustment of the carburetor.

Clearance and its exhibition on the TRAMBLER

The gaps between the traver contacts and their adjustment are an equally important event. Clearance adjustment is recommended in car services, but in extreme cases it can be done with your own hands. Especially after the ignition itself was exhibited.

Step-by-step instructions for placing the gap looks like this:

A set of specialscents with a thickness of 0.40 mm is prepared.
The lid of the traver is removed.
The rotor of the distributor is also dismantled (2 of the 2 screws hold it).
The crankshaft turns until the interrupter's cam will fall at the most maximum position - when the contacts are open to the limit.
Now the clearance is checked between traver's contacts. If in one place, for example, the clearance is less, then you should alternately loosen the tightening of the screw-fixators of the contact group, and move the rack with a screwdr until the optimal clearance arrives.

Note. Normal gap, for example, on the VAZ "Seven" should be 0.35-0.45 mm.

What threatens the wrong distributor

If the ignition is put wrong, then it threatens big trouble. Here are just a few of them.

Loss of the former power of the power plant and pickup.
Increase the fuel consumption.
Black exhaust, which indicates incomplete fuel burning.
Detonation.
Turning valves, etc.

As for the causes of knocking off factory settings, then, as a rule, they are associated with a human factor. The driver himself dismantles for some reason a rubber, after which the standard settings are knocked down.

It will be interesting to note that on the domestic models of the car the runner is set on the 1st cylinder, but on foreign cars - on the 4th or in a special track of the hull of the trambrel.

In Muscovites, Zaporozhets and Volga-24/31 labels represent two different crescents. Of these, one short, the other is long.

Ignition adjustment always marked with the settings of the contact group. It is necessary in the situation when it is operated or a standard ignition variant or a transistor type variant. If the thyristor type system is used, the correct slot size between the contacts is not so critical. We learn how to adjust the most important element of the ignition system - a traver. The video review is also given below.

Two main ways to set up a traver

Let's start with the first way. Before installing the distributor in place, be sure to set the 1st cylinder of the power plant to the NTT position. The hole is stuck, which includes the SZ of the 1st cylinder, and on a felt pressure of the pushing compressed air is determined by the VMT.

To put the distributor to this position, it will be necessary to turn the crankshaft in the emergency to match the tag on the shaft wheel with the label on the cylinder block. Find out which of the rice is NMT, you can from the guide of the motorist.

Be sure to remove the lid from the traver. After that, the slider is tested in such a way that it is aimed at contact in the lid of the 1st cylinder. It is in such an exposure that the dispenser's body is put in DVS.

Attention. If a gear drive is put on the distributor, it should be checked for thirty degrees against emergency, and only then install it into the engine.

In the process of installing a traver in the engine, the slider should be moved along the emergency and against it to distribute normally sat down in place. It happens that the rubber in place sits down, but right direction The slider does not get. In this case, the distributor will have to dismantle, and then put in place taking into account the previous error.

Proper, compeble adjustment of the traver on the 1st cylinder is carried out like this:

From the distributor, you should remove the main armored wire, after which it is grounded to the ground.
Crankshaft Turn on the label to VMT.
Connect the multimeter to the traver, putting the device on 20 in direct current.
Diagnose the gaps of the contact group, as well as the state of surfaces.

Note. It will be necessary to rotate to distribute first on the emergency until the multimeter indicator is on 0.45. Then to turn the rubber in the opposite direction to the indicator 12 V. In this case, the click of the spark on the mass can also be possible.

This is the moment of truth. In this position, the rubber is considered configured, it should be fixed, put a cover in place. Armoredos should also not forget to put in place.

The second method of setting the traver is carried out on vehicles refilled by combustible super or 93. This method It is recommended to carry out on the operating engine.

So, it is turned off when the engine is running against the emergency. In this case, instantly increase the speed of power installation, but if you continue rotation, the engine will function unstable. And it is at this moment when the motor will no longer increase the revolutions, the distributor must be slowly tightened in the opposite direction.

Check the work done with your own hands, as follows. Cropped into the DVS sharply - it should not stumble or stop for a few seconds.

Slim tuning: weights and springs

The tuning of the weights begins after that. This is already called a fine adjustment of the traver. In this case, it is set to configuration of the CSD, proofreaders are directly answered - the CNTR and VC.

The first, centrifugal regulator contains two weights and two springs. When rotating the distribution rotor, the weights under the influence of the CNT strength are diverged on the sides. In the process of this, the shaft is shifted with cams or a curtain (if the ignition system is non-contact). Thus, contacts are triggered noticeable earlier.

Two springs protrude as opposition to the SNTR, the effective functioning of the entire ignition system depends. Springs themselves are different, and this is not so done.

The first spring is longer, it is responsible for the time of entry into the case of the CNTR regulator tensioning. At the same time, this spring adjusts the straight angle to 1.2 thousand revolutions per minute, providing rigidity.
The second spring is shorter, but it is much tougher first. Corrects the moment of breakfast, providing a free move.

Experts insist that the second spring should be secured free course. However, some car enthusias believe that it arises from this. unstable work DVS on small revolutions. Adjustable, allegedly, stretch this spring.

As for VC or vacuum corrector, it contributes to the occurrence of ahead only during the functioning of the first chamber. In other words, when it comes to partial load on the power plant.

By itself, this advanced guide cannot be created on a large turnover, nor under loads. This should be understood. And on the XX, by the way, too.

Video below about the work of the weights on the rubble

Contacts

If a standard ignition option is involved on a car, then before setting, it is recommended to clear the contacts of the distributor with proper. After such a stripping, there is a diagnosis of the state of the contacts - first of all it is necessary to make sure that the contacts between the plane come into contact with each other or not.

Contacts in some cases must be supplied. The crankshaft turns to the moment when the distance between the contacts is not optimal. Screw-retainer contacts on the bearing plate, turns away.

A spacer is entered, the size of which varies in the range of 0.4 mm. Entered between contacts. Then such an exposure is provided, which allows you to move Shchu not too freely, but not tight. This position is necessarily fixed.

Note. The size of the gap can be checked with two spacers. A large spacer should not be included between the electrodes, thin - move without much resistance.

The crankshaft is carried out by special sleep. You can also go as follows: put on the 4th speed, carefully push the car. The starter will not be able to use, as it is impossible to form the correct turn, but the desired size of the dispenser's gap will give the desired value of UZK. And in this case, we must not forget that the corner is not critical, but the gap itself. For this reason, diagnose the adjustment is very important. The value should be within 55/3 degrees.

The simplest alternative is to apply the stake with the measurement option. In order to use this device, you need to assemble the distributor, and then run the engine. The electric meter itself is placed in the measurement position.

Setting the gaps are repeated when difficulties appear. There is another way, but it implies a mandatory measurement of the angle. It will be necessary to pull the main armored bar, hook it to the mass. Some craftsmen may not pull out the wire, conducting work so. However, in this case, the danger of the appearance of a breakdown in the coil increases.

Regarding the indicator:

If you check the ignition on the standard ignition system, then everything should occur as written by paragraphs above.
But in the process of working on the ignition of the old sample, the indicator will not flash due to the lack of a current limiter.

Attention. In such cases, the multimeter is replaced with a volt device. It shows either 12 V or 0.

The crankshaft scrolls on emergency, turns until the contacts are closed. This is written above.

Setting up various devices

There are several types of distributor checks, each of which implies its own device.

Stroboscope

One of the popular scan options is a stroboscope. The device clings to the mains of the car. The vacuum-corrector hose is being removed and dried. The motor will start and warming up to the desired degree, in which it will surely keep turnover on the XX. Then weaken the bolt-locking device of the rubbed body, and the strobe light is directed to the crankshaft.

The rubber turns until the risk on the pulley stands apart by the label on the GRS mechanism. In this position, the rubbed case is recorded.

Light bulb

The usual light bulb can also become a device for configuring. It is a standard option, the instructions for which can be found in the public autolytera. The main thing is the presence of a 12-volt light bulb and two wires. The crankshaft turns as needed, the risk of the crankshaft is set in a given way, the slider is installed opposite the 1st cylinder armor gun.

The connection of the light bulb is carried out as follows: after switching on the 4th speed, one of the wires connects to the wire that comes from the distributor to the coil. The second wire is integrated with a mass of the car. You should also not forget to weaken the bolt fixture, and from the distributor cover, remove the central wire.

Spark

For experienced motorists and professionals, spark can be a guide for adjustment. The crankshaft is put in the correct position, the main armored car was pulled out and put at a distance of 5 mm from the mass.

Again, the bolt fixture is weakened, after which the ignition is turned on. The casing of the distributor turns along the number of emergencies by 10-20 degrees. After that, the rubber gently rotates back until the spark is trying. This is the moment of truth - the trimmer body is fixed in this position.

Aurally

Again, the way for experienced. For some cases, it is not suitable, as it gives not quite accurate readings. However, this setting can help get to settlement. Adjusting this type is carried out as follows: DVS starts, the bolt-locking is weakened. The housing is turning so that such a position is found, in which the momentum turnover will be maximal. Fix the rubber follows several degrees on emergency.

At the end of any of the above methods, a final check is carried out. Its goal is to verify end results. They are checked by car, when driving. DVS warms up, the speed of 40-50 km / h is recruited on the level road. After using the 4th speed, the accelerator pedal is sharply pressed into the floor. The car after the characteristic motor clasions will gradually increase the speed.

If there are no sounds to hear, you will have to turn the distributor against the emergency to one division. This procedure is obliged to be carried out until this noise appears.

Having learned how to adjust distribute in several ways, you can significantly improve your knowledge in the field of emergency repair.

Watch a video review about how to set up a rubber so that it worked better. By the way, the video of modernization is also described in the video.