Homemade trunk on a motorcycle. Tourist motorcycle equipment. Plastic Kanistra

In general, the motorcyflaps are made in different ways from a different material. My customer wanted them to be from clean skin without an inner skeleton. Therefore, a black shore was selected 3.2 mm. In the process, the thought flashed that it was not bad to make a shore chaprak - he was tougher. But I decided to highlight the boxes in advance, so I didn't absorb moisture, because I took Shore. After the fiction, the rigidity will be at the proper level.
This is how my sketch looks like. This, of course, takes place, but it suits me - informatively and do not care about spilled coffee.

Since the idea of \u200b\u200bthe tutorial visited me after the start of work on the skirts - the whole process of patterns, clippings and painting, I safely professional profound. In principle, everything is elementary, everyone knows how to cut and cut fabrics or some more lambood, so it did not bother over this stage. P.S. All patterns made from a prefine or very hard cardboard, so everything was smooth.

So, we have almost all patterns except the valve that will be made from the other skin, because stupidly did not have enough of the desired black shore. On the valves, I put the same Shore, only red-colored, on which there will be a drawing in the form of a crow. To smoothly sew a CAFR, which is essentially a big bag, you need to punch holes in advance under the seam. I strongly recommend getting a canvas and cut them a millimeter groove under the thread - so it never flows in life and looks like a suture much more spectacular and even more. In general, the markup is made by a special handle on the skin and erases later, but I don't have it, because it's hard to be solid, but he is not erased. In short: I place the seam, I cut the groove.

Next on the back of the pattern I put the labels in order not to confuse what to sew it. It's time to pierce holes under the seam. Here the main principle - holes should be the same amount and symmetrical location on the patterns sewed to each other. If you pierce on Avos - at the end of the seam, the head will come out in the form of unnecessary holes, which do not hide, and the explicit asymmetry of the stitched bag. In the first coffee box, I got a head in mind the excess hole, which I almost broke through inattention. If it struck - the assimmetry would come out in the form of a guy centimeter - the eyes rushed immediately, so be careful. Chinese masters generally glue the surface at the moment and only then sew.

I start sewing the bottom of the box to its front wall. For a good it would be worth it to immediately cut the edges and rounded, but I do not have the right tool, therefore I just do a smooth cut and paint it. That is how it is in any way, because it is still to mount the buckles, and in the case of the jacket to redo it easier and faster. All the seams are manual with two needles one towards another. Thread synthetic, wicker + midway, 1mm in diameter. Important: Before the insertion of the front wall, the box must be installed and pierced all the seams and holes, as well as cut all the necessary grooves for bends on a piece of leather, which will be the bottom (and immediately bend in the right places in the right places with a chicken one). Because then it will be hemorrhoids rare. In the end, we have such a fig. Immediately after the firmware, we go to the bathroom, we wat a member (the rear side of the skin) with a water and accrane climb the hammer, as shown in the photo. As a result, we have clear angles of 90 degrees in the seam. And the eye pleases and exclude scuffs and other zaleps, as in the photo of the old box below, whose seams are not bent (torn the thread and blooms seam, everything will be broken.).

Next, I make exactly the same workpiece under the second CAFR. In a good way, it would be necessary to immediately enjoy the outer wall until the rear is sewn, in order not to suffer especially. Probably, I'll do it. Wax in this case is necessary, while the skin does not stop absorbing it. It is for giving gesture and waterproof skin, because the shore is a very soft grade and the form holds badly. The process of fracturing and the composition would be preferred in the secret, do not blame me. Who needs it - he will google. By the way, I will be offered by Mebra, because the face is painted in this case.

While hands with calls are resting from sewing, take the back of the walls of the boxes and with the help of old hoses align and customize the attachments under the motorcycle of the owner, at the same time immediately navel laces for their silica to the frame. Laces take from the same skin as the boxes and in a couple of minutes we cut the cords. Punch holes in the right places for future lacing.

In parallel, two previous items begin to slowly fasten the buckles and cut straps. Nothing difficult. And immediately fixes them on the CFR. Muffd up in this case, the buckles on a riveting called the holnitenen. This little thing is brutally saved time and strength, it looks spectacular, but loves to slip off the anvil and it turns out a deposition as in the photo. Treatment - either to pass out this infection, trying not to break the skin, or to come down with a hammer and forget. Minus - it looks non-style. Leaves Crop the surplus from the bottom and you can sew the back wall. P.S.: Before the sewn of the back wall on it it is necessary to break holes under fastening to the motorcycle frame. I forgot to do it - so I will suffer already with a sewn wall.

She sewed the back wall, slept the hammer of the bend (generously watering the outside the groove and from the inside the box the place of folding with water so that the skin was plastic and stretched) so that everything is smooth and beautiful. While the first coofer dries flashing the second. War of the bottom and the rear wall of the boxes.

Now it's time to carve out and plant the inner valve on the buttons on the riveting, so that the contents through the gaps between the main valve and the walls of the coffer are out of the coffer.

I expect the valves on both boxes, stitching the seams - decorative (I immediately flashing) and for attaching to the cofiver. I nano drawing by the deceit. Crash first drawing, then everything else neatly. It remains to enjoy and sew to the cofiver.

We have the main object for customizing (alterations "at home") and the most walking transport under the "Choppers" are "Urals", "Dnipro", "Casiki". They are the main cargo transport in the village.

Often after the "cosmetic repair", many bikers cling back bags for different luggage and just for the "effect". On the new "Urals" can already establish something like trunk types. This applies to the type "tourist", "retro" (there is a little shelf instead of the saddle).

But there are such that they use them in a complete measure. However, you will not take a lot in them, and those who use the "solo" are not for the rested, but for the matter, sometimes there is a need to transport some cargo. You can, of course, wear a motorcycle in three very volumetric strong coffee machines, but it is not necessary for everyone and not everyone affordable.
In this case, the economy is the trunk. Of course, if you did not redo the motorcycle dramatically. I want to imagine one of the homemade options for the "tuning". It was made in a garage and tested in several long journeys.
The design of this trunk is different from the one that everyone got used to see on "Izhi" and "Java", because the "Urals" frame has a different design of the back and the silencers are cut up.

As it should be the tourist trunk, the proposed has three cargo sites: one above behind the seat (Fig. 1) and two - from the silencers from the silencers (Fig. 2 and 3). All of them are made of 10 millimeter steel pipe. An unusual pentagonal form of sidewalls chose to not disturb the main composite lines of the "feed" of the motorcycle: the lower tube and the shelf are lying in parallel to the silencer, and the upper one is parallel to the seat. Along and across the sidewalls are welded traction from a 6 mm rod - for additional stiffness.

The sidewalls are attached to the frame at five points, and the upper shelf - in four (Fig. 4). Moreover, nothing is required to weld to the frame or drill additional holes in it. The elements of the trunk fastening are shown in Fig. five.

And now let's look at what everyone is intended. Element A is just a flattened end of a pipe with a hole drilled in it with a diameter of 9 mm. Here the sidewall is screwed by a silencer fastening bolt. Alternatively, a plate-welded plate with a hole will be consolidated.
At point b, the sidewall is attached to the upper bolt of the shock absorber by means of a steel corner welded to it.
The upper shelf is attached to the frame at the point in the plate of suitable length. At the bottom it connects to the point of fastening the turning pointers.
Spacer with which the sidewall is mounted at the point r, gives the trunk transverse rigidity. It is inserted into the opening of the wing mount, and the other side of the bolt is connected to the sidewall.
The thrust is the main burden on the trunk. On a motorcycle, it is mounted at the point of attachment of the wing and the seat using a triangular bracket E with a welded bolt.

A few words about the lower side shelves. They are small, so as not to spoil the appearance of the motorcycle, but their size is quite enough to secure the 20-liter canister. Some sequestness of the shelf forward along the motorcycle is explained by the design and repeats the location of the muffler.
Complete load capacity of the trunk is about 50 kg. But if you can try well and a little smelting, you can come up with a more prominent (if it is very necessary).

I think such a trunk can be used with a carriage.

Bags for a motorcycle are made of various materials: metal, plastic, leather or plywood. The choice depends on personal preferences and skills. If you decide to make cofments for a motorcycle with your own hands, you can be confident in their exclusivity. And if with properly diligence and fantasy to approach their decoration, they will become not only convenient triggers for the carriage of various items, but also a uniquely decoration of the bike.

Homemade Metal Kanistra

A simple way to make side dishs for a motorcycle do it yourself - it is to use two metal canisters. The manufacturing process is quite simple:

• We purchase two identical metal canisters with a capacity of 20 liters (the average price of 1300 ÷ 1500 rubles per piece).
• On the canisters with a marker we apply the cut line (the lower part will serve as a container for things, the upper - lid).
• Bulgarian with a disc on metal gently cut both canisters in accordance with the applied markup.
• The edges of the cut is cleaned with sandpaper and cover anti-corrosion paint.
• On both parts install the seal (for example, the seal is suitable from the lid of the VAZ 2101 ÷ 2107, which can be purchased at any auto parts store for 250 ÷ 300 rubles).

• Tightly press both parts to each other and place the holes for fastening the loops (conventional furniture loops) and latches.
• Drills the holes on the applied markup, secure loop and latch with rivets or bolts.

Durable metal homemade cofrs are ready. Now you need to make fasteners. It depends on the individual features of the motorcycle. For this purpose, you can use clamps or other suitable hardware.

Decoration depends on the individual preferences of the biker:

• If you choose bright color canisters, then they themselves will decorate your bike.
• If you wish, you can paint the canisters in the color of the motorcycle.

• If you carefully cut the handles, then you can cover the canisters by self-adhesive film or enclose artificial skin.

On a note! For the manufacture of side wrappings on the moped, canisters with a capacity of 5 or 10 liters are suitable.

Metal boxes from fishermen boxes

The boxes are very easy to make from two fishing boxes. Fixer work is minimal, as the loops and the latch are already installed on the lid of the box. It is only necessary to make suitable fastenings and decorate (for example, plane a thin foam rubber, after which it is covered with dermal). So, a winter aluminum box with dimensions of 31 x 20 x 30 cm (with a volume of 18 liters, weighing 1.4 kg) costs only 980 ÷ 1100 rubles. You can not doubt the strength of this design due to the fact that the box is designed to sit on it an adult man in full winter equipment.

Plastic Kanistra

The process of manufacturing wrappings from plastic canisters is largely similar to the manufacture of lateral trudgers from metal containers. The difference lies only that plastic boxes have insufficient rigidity, therefore, additional metal elements (strips and sheets) will have to be installed for their manufacturer, reinforcement. The main disadvantages of this method include large labor costs and the amount of time that will be needed for the manufacture of plastic trunk for a motorcycle (compared to metal analogs). And although plastic canisters are much cheaper than metal, additional costs for metal and hardware can reduce cash savings "No".

Homemade leather cofgrounds

The skin was and remains the most favorite material for various biker accessories. Tailoring of the boxes from this material can be carried out independently.

Required tools and materials:

• roulette, metal ruler, marker, narrow construction knife, needle with thick ear, canvas;
• a piece of leather (shore-saddled, thickness of 3 ÷ 4 mm), thick synthetic threads, fittings (buckles, fasteners, rivets and so on).

How to make leather boxes:

• From dense cardboard, we cut the patterns of all parts of the future coffer (side, bottom, closing valve, and so on) taking into account the allowance for the seams (0.7 ÷ 0.9 mm).
• We decompose the finished patterns on the back of the skin and supply the marker.
• Cut the blank using a building knife.
• With the help of canvas and wooden inquiries, we make holes in places of fastening individual parts.

• We sew all parts with a thick needle and kapron thread.
• Corners strengthen special rivets (holnitenes).
• Breeping all the necessary accessories (buckles, frames - holders and decor elements). Result: We sewed durable and durable boxes.

For the manufacture of motorcycles on the thigh, quite a skin with a thickness of 1.0 ÷ 1.5 mm.

The advantages of such a material as moisture-resistant plywood, (in the manufacture of curves) belong:

• simplicity of treatment with the use of electric jigsaw or circular saw;
• availability and low price;
• easy to connect separate parts to each other using glue, self-tapping screws, wooden bars and metal corners.

The disadvantage of such a material is the impossibility of making from plywood of motorcycle side trunk with complex curved geometric shapes. The same box is attached similarly to metal or plastic products.

In custody

We described only some types of hardware for motorcycle, which can be made independently. In addition, make the CFR for a motorcycle can be made of fiberglass, impregnated with epoxy resin. Having a welding machine, it is not difficult to make metal boxes of the most diverse shape and capacity. The final choice of material depends on your skills, and the shape and dimensions are from personal preferences.

Own alteration of working shoes in motobot, and now the story about iron.
Not always during production at hand was the camera, so part of the pictures is made on a lousy phone.
So, several photographs of the process and a brief description.

Trunk.
For a start, a simplified sketch in the CorelDraw of the motorcycle itself with the trunk. View from above.


So it became clear what I want.
It remains to find materials. He went to the metal market, chose the square of the square section from the width of the wall of 30mm. For aesthetics, it was possible and burned, but this was not found. However, closing ahead, I will say that the trunk turned out to be somewhat cumbersome, but very durable. But if aesthetics is more important for you, it is better to choose a profile of a 25mm wide - loss of strength will be insignificant, I think.
Well, began to crush. Corner grinding (she "Bulgarian", she is "turbine") to help.
The roundings did as follows: he made several propilov, while trying not to damage one of the four faces of the profile. The number of propilov calculated at random, based on the bend angle and the width of the propyl itself. That is why it processed a little and was cut on one of the parties. Well, nothing, the welding will fix everything.
After that, the gas burner (ordinary Chinese, which is put on the canister for a portable stove) was heated by a hot spot, the remaining unspexed side and a light move bent the milk metal.
It turned out something like this:

The following bending is harder. Because it was necessary to accurately set the angle of the bevel. I will not say that the result made me, but in general it turned out what it was necessary. True, the next time I would change this angle for several degrees.


Well, further - the brewing of the gaps received during the suggestion and the welding of the cross. Read easily, in fact there are difficulties. How delicate would not be an inverter, how thin (2mm) electrodes were not used, the lives of the metal could not be avoided. And no wonder, because by that time I just studied at the welder's courses (exactly the month was departed, and, on the theory), and before that he held this Azza device in his hands just a couple of times! But the head - it is necessary that under the welding mask there is also a couple of related neurons, and therefore came up with such a way out: cut the lining from sheet metal and closed their own shoals.
In the picture below, I showed it schematically.


Figures 1 and 2 just show these overlays. Figure 3 shows the edge of the trunk with the mount. There I saw a piece of profile, but the thickness of the remaining wall (about 1,5mm) did not suit me and I welded another piece of the metal plate (shown in a brighter color) 4-5mm thick. After that, drilled a hole in this disgrace. The same did the same on the other hand.
Then I bought 4 bolts on 8mm and welded them from below in such a way that they could be clinging the luggage grid or the rope. The idea itself was spied on my Chinese Motion, and indeed, probably, there are such fixes on all factory trunkings.
It seems to be all, but then I raged many times, twisted, sharpened; Grinding the curves of welding seams ... After that, painted, bypassing the wrapper process, which then even somehow did not think - the complete lack of experience affected.
It turned out not perfectly, but the trunk performs its role and almost does not affect the speed :-)
On the motorcycle, the product looks like this:


As you can see, the rear turn signals placed on the removal, to be located partially under the trunk, and not on the sides of it. This is done so that these most turn signals do not break up, which has previously happened repeatedly even with a simple rolling out of the motorcycle from the garage.

So, the time is coming (from the date of purchase soon 2 years), an old Kava finishes the stage of metamorphosis and becomes less like a similar on that I met at Motorka.

Shl. I was going to tell me in the same post and arcs, but I realized that letters turned out a lot, and therefore it would be better to prepare a separate post. If, of course, it will be interesting to someone.
Zyy. Post about arcs.