They are also called valve glands. Why do you need these very small details in size? Their destination is to prevent oil leakage from the block head in working cylinders through the valve terminal. According to the design of the product, it is a steel sleeve, "wrapped" rubber with twisted spring. Today, acrylate rubber is used for the manufacture of valve seals - durable and reliable artificial material.

The timely replacement of oil-challenged caps prevents increased oil consumption and the drop in the operational characteristics of the engine caused by stirring the air-fuel mixture and lubricating composition.

Why are we needed and how oil-chamming caps work

The valve makes a reciprocating movement due to direct contact with the MRM switchgear. When it revolves, an oil suspension is created. In this case, the valve periodically enters the combustion chamber zone, where the presence of lubricant is unacceptable. Occupal caps just remove the oil from the valve rod, not passing it inside the cylinder block.

Over time, they are aging: rubber loses its elasticity, the parts become rigid and lubricating fluid begins to leak into the combustion chamber. To avoid excessive wear of the oil-challenge caps, they must be replaced in time.

Signs of wear of valve glands

If it turns out on time to recognize the failure of these parts on time, it will be possible to avoid more serious damasters of the engine (parts of the cylinder-piston group). Basic symptoms:

• From the muffler tube, a thick smoke with a white or nasy tint is visible: it appears for a short time when the motor starts.
• The concentration of smoke increases with a sharp press on the accelerator pedal or switching speeds.
• The consumption of lubricant is significantly increased (more than 1 l per 1000 km).
• On the ignition candlelight detects grinding, they have a black nagar. This is due to the fact that when it is created in the combustion chamber of the high pressure particle of oil through microcamials (enough 0.3 mm) in the candle thread literally squeezed out and traces of lubricating consumables are visible even around the screw candle.

The wear of the oil-challenge caps cannot be avoided: these components of the gas distribution mechanism are operated in a high load mode. Only within one minute, the valve has time to make 150-1200 "Walker" (clocks). Plus, an aggressive medium acts on the product: and exhaust gases.

The question arises when to change the oil-challenge caps? If you have a new car, you need to do it approximately after 50-70 thousand km of mileage (mileage on imported machines can be 180 or more than a thousand km).

When ignoring the above signs of depreciation of the seals, we should expect problems with the engine, namely:

• reduction of power (the car will be worse to "pull") due to bad work of grilled candles;
• "Swimming" by idling;
• when turning turns, the motor can stumble.

It is also worth paying attention to the dynamic characteristics of the car - for example, overclocking, and fuel consumption. If these two parameters have not changed, then you can talk about wear of valve glands with a lot of confidence. This also speaks normal compression in the engine cylinders.

Replacing the oilmaging Caps

The duration and complexity of this process depends on the brand of auto and a specific model. But general principles of replacement can be outlined. To successfully replace the oilmaging caps without removing the head you need:

1. Fully cool the engine and remove the valve cover.
2. To achieve coincidence of tags on the pulley, distribution and crankshaft shafts.
3. Loosen the drive and dismantle camshaft.
4. "Empty" valve springs (better use puller).
5. Using Passatias or a special collet to remove valve glands.
6. Take new products, lubricate their inner surface with engine oil. The same is required to do with their landing place.
7. Place the valve glands on the rod and press them through the riser-hammer with a rubber hammer.
8. Put back the springs and "drumming" them.

If there are suspicions that the oil-free caps have not changed for a long time, you will have to remove the head of the cylinder block and clear the elements of the cylinder-piston group from Nagara.

Replacing caps on VAZ 2121 (16 valves)

It is best to carry out this operation on the signed head of the cylinder block. But if this can not be done, the replacement of valve seals can be carried out in place. You must prepare in advance:

When everything is ready, you can move directly to the process. Action Algorithm Largest:

1. Disconnect the plus terminal from the battery, remove the high-voltage wires and unscrew the spark plugs.
2. Place the upper dead point, how do it, when you change the timing belt (labels on the camshaft, pulley, crankshaft should coincide).
3. Take the end key to 12 and remove the valve cover.
4. Pull the plugs connected to the pads.
5. Remove the ignition coil.
6. Remove the throttle (if it is dirty, then using the case, clean it).
7. Remove the valve cover and remove the screws by which the rockers are fixed (they also pull them out).
8. Take a compressive and "crumble" of the valve, pre-wrapped the fixture with a rag so that the valve clamps do not scatter in different directions. One part of this device is fixed, and the other puts on the valve plate, while simultaneously squeezing the spring and freeing the "cr".
9. If the valve when exposed to the tool on it goes into the combustion chamber, then in the candle hole will have to insert a wooden bar, or such a device to stall the valve.
10. Remove from the bushings of worn out oil clocks. We press new ones. Assembly, make in the reverse order.

It is necessary to seriously treat the choice of oil-challenged caps for VAZ2112. Experts recommend the following kits:

• 2112-1007026: These are original products produced by AvtoVAZ and installed on the conveyor - are ideal for the Russian car;
• kitMaster-Sport;
• Herzog;
• Triali;
• STD "Reserve";
• Goetze: On this manufacturer it is worth stopping in more detail. Most experts prefer these products, despite the higher cost. The fact is that the valve glands from this company is easier to install (the risks of damage are minimized) and they serve longer even "native" vazovsky.

When buying glands on a foreign car, you need to take into account the design of the caps. For example, on Japanese products inside there is a protrusion that coincides with the corresponding groove on the sleeve.

It is clear that such valve glands cannot be put on European, American or Russian cars. It is worth noting that the removal and installation of the oil-challenge cap will cost them cheaper, even taking into account the purchase of the "dismissant" than the trip to the car service. If there are no opportunities to replace the oil slimming caps, then you can try to pull out the inevitable repair using special additives. They are capable of sealing gaps for some time between the valve and its seal. Autochemistry of this kind will cost cheaper than the replacement of the caps (even independent): it allows for some time to continue to operate the car. From the most frequent additives can be noted:

• Wagner (USA);
• Liqui Moly (FRG);
• Lavr (Russia).

Why you can not ride with worn out valve glands

When a lubricant in the combustion chamber is stirred, the fuction is mixed, as a result of which the oil begins to turn into a combustion product and settle on the electrodes of candles in the form of a black nagar. As a result, sparking becomes unstable, the motor works unstable and does not develop full power. Candle pollution will sooner or later lead to one of the cylinders. Another threatening trouble is the squeak of one or several valves. This is also fraught with a cylinder failure and a sharp increase in oil consumption.

It is often necessary to notice that increased smoking appears from the exhaust pipe of the car. Sometimes situations reach the fact that the car is literally enveloped by clubs of thick smoke. It is quite obvious that every motorist emerge an excessive smoke indicates the emergence of certain problems with.

Immediately note that not always, but often increased smoke indicates serious. At the same time, for experienced drivers, it is not difficult to determine the reason for the color and composition of the exhaust. However, for beginners, it is not always easy to understand why the engine smokes, as well as determine the cause and reveal, rings or caps. Let's deal with.

Read in this article

Appeared white or black smoke from the exhaust pipe

Let's start with the basic types of smoking for a better understanding of the problem. So, the white smoke from the exhaust pipe is quite a normal phenomenon for the warm engine warming modes. Moreover, it is mistaken to believe that it is smoke. In fact, it is a couple. Water in a vapor state is a natural product of the motor.

In an immense graduation system, this couple is partially condensed and becomes visible, and water usually appears on the cutting pipe. As the engine is heated and condensation decreases.

The colder the environment, the more dense the steam is obtained. At temperatures below 10 ° C, steam is formed and on a well-heated engine, and when frost in minus 20 - 25 degrees, it takes a thick white color with a siza tint. On the color and saturation of the pair also affect the humidity of the air. What she is more, the pairs are thick.

Note that if the pairs are visible in the warm season, it is quite possible, this is due to. Its shade depends on the composition of the coolant, weather, illumination, as well as on the amount of coolant in the combustion chamber. Sometimes he can acquire a gray shade, reminding "oil" smoke. But, unlike butter smoke, which leaves a bluish fog in the air, steam quickly dissipates.

The inexperienced motorist is quite difficult in appearance to determine what is a source of smoke. In this case, you can use the verified method of verification. To do this, it is necessary to close the bottom of the exhaust pipe with a sheet of white paper briefly on a well-haired engine, while the condensed pairs in the form of water droplets when the paper gets will gradually evaporate and will not leave obvious fat traces.

If this simple test confirmed that steam is incorporated from the exhaust system, and not an oil smoke, it is necessary to take measures to eliminate the malfunction that promotes the penetration of the coolant into the cylinders.

Most often, the liquid can fall into cylinders through due to insufficient broach (in winter it is often observed to leak the coolant at the junction of the block and heads), the progress and less often as a result of education. Opening the radiator cork or, it is easy to identify the smell of exhaust gases and the oil film on the surface of the coolant.

All problems associated with the white smoke from the exhaust pipe require the elimination of not only direct causes, but also a mandatory testing of systems capable of affecting their appearance:, switching sensor, coupling or fan itself, radiator state, its plugs, hoses, or connections. If the white smoke and the accompanying defects are noticed, then the car cannot be operated, since defects will quickly progress.

• We go further. The black smoke from the exhaust pipe indicates the re-enrichment of the fuel and air mixture or the deterioration of the combustion conditions of the fuel. Consequently, we are talking about faults. Such smoke is usually clearly visible on a light background and is particles of soot - the products of incomplete combustion of fuel.

Black smoke is accompanied by a large fuel consumption, often poor launch, unstable engine operation, high toxicity of exhaust gases, and often loss of power due to the non-optimal composition of the fuel and air mixture.

It is important to understand that the observation of symptoms and the rapidly established problem will allow in the future to reduce the cost of repair and avoid serious and fast progressive failures.

Read also

Why root piston rings. Basic signs for self-essential malfunction, diagnostics. Drawing piston rings with their own hands.

Engine valves work in very difficult conditions. From above on them, the distribution shaft is continuously affected, great friction is created. And below they are located in a high temperature of exhaust gases. The camshaft, perhaps, more than other parts of the engine is lubricated with oil, as a result, it falls on the valves by which flows down to the combustion chamber. If you do not prevent this process, the following will occur. The oil will be mixed with the air mixture in the cylinders and burn. This will lead to the formation of a car on the walls of the combustion chamber, on the pistons and piston rings - component. Engine wear will increase and the characteristics of its operation and the quality of the combustible mixture will deteriorate. But the biggest problem is that the nagar is formed on the valve seat and its head (from above on a flat part, the so-called "skirt"). The valve stops closing. Such a malfunction is a serious violation of the engine, which in a small time leads it in a non-working condition.

Where are the oil surcharge caps

In order to prevent oil from entering the combustion chamber, an oil slimming caps are installed on the valves (they are the valves of the valve rod). Singing the oil surcharge caps with oilmaging rings. It is except that only in the title. How to find out, occargable caps or rings? The caps are small rubber glands, and rings are large metal subtle formations that are ideally included in the piston grooves (crank-connecting mechanism). While the oil slimming caps are where the valves and guide sleeves are located, between them (and this is already a gas-distribution mechanism).

Valve's valve gland is essentially consumable in the car, but the replacement of such an element is equal to the motor overhaul, as it is impossible to change it without disassembling.

How many engineering caps in the engine? They are in the engine exactly as much as valves. That is, if it is an eight-flaped internal combustion engine, then the caps, respectively, eight. When the valve moves, opening and closing the intake / outlet, the cap removes from the rod (with a narrow long part of the valve) excess oil in such a way that the operating surfaces (that is, that part of the valve that interacts with the camera) remain dry. The oiling caps are made of rubber, which under the influence of the aggressive medium is rapidly wears.

Symptoms of wear of oilmaging caps

Like any consumage, the sealant has its own regulated use time. The resource of the oil-challenge cap is 100,000 km of mileage. But as practice shows, the glands come into disrepair before the regulated time. This is evidenced by the following problems:

• education on Nagar Ignition Candle
• reducing the level of engine oil
• the appearance of a sizogue smoke from the exhaust pipe with a strong pressed on the gas pedal.

The location of the oil surcharge

The most optimal solution is the installation of oilmaging caps recommended by the manufacturer of this vehicle.

Such symptoms on the car give rise to think about replacing the valve rods. Do this, of course, is better in specialized car services. The price of replacement of oil-challenge caps will fluctuate in the area of \u200b\u200b4 - 8 thousand rubles. How much are the oil-challenge caps? Relatively inexpensive, about 500 rubles for each. Now you can calculate how much it costs to replace the oilmaging caps. You can make an operation with your own hands. But note that the glands are easily deformed with the wrong handling of them.

The first thing you need to do is choose the desired oiling caps. Acrylate rubber more modern material than fluorocouette. The size of the oil-sensitive caps can be calculated by measuring the diameter of the existing valve is for the inside. As for the models of the seals (here you can also include external size), you can install new ones on the old DVS, but on a new outdated not the best option.

Replacing the oilmaging caps with their own hands

To work, you will need: Set of keys, valve silencer, nippers for oil caps, mandrel. It is preferable to change the oil cap caps on the dismantled head of the cylinder block. It is possible to remove the oil-free cap without removing the head. To do this, it will be necessary when removing the seals from the valves for each piston to set the upper dead point. Otherwise, the valves have every chance of falling into the cylinder, even if you are to hold them, moreover, when installing new caps without stopping, it will be extremely uncomfortable.

Procedure for replacing the oil-challenge caps

So, how to change the oilmaging caps? Installed VTT or removed CFC. To work, it is best to use a special tool for replacing the oil-challenge caps, but also we will look at how you can remove the oil slimming caps without puller. With the help of the dismumbering, the plate and the valve spring is covered. Next, the glands are dismantled with special tongs for oiling caps (some use passatatages as a puller of oil-circuit caps with their own hands, but it is worth considering the risk of damage to the valve rod when using a non-specialized tool). A special rim for oil-challenged caps is clogged with a hammer of a new gland (replace the mandrel can be a metal tube of a suitable diameter, but extremely undesirable). For easier stroke and the inner surface of the rubber element can be lubricated with engine oil. Blows must be unsiler and accurate, since this detail is fragile, exposed to strain. The installation of the oil surcharge cap in the landing socket indicates a deaf sound. The same is done with the rest of the valves. After the new rods of the valve rods are installed, the return mechanism is back covered, the CCC is collected, the other attachments returns to the place. The operation is completed.

Finally

After replacing the oil-challenge caps

To increase the service life of the oil supply, special additives are used for oil-giving caps. Some of them affect the rubber part, softening it, others are directed to the sealing of the resulting gaps. If the use of additives to restore the oil-circuit caps still has its effect, then the restoration of the oil-sensitive caps seized from the engine does not make sense at all, since they will be short-lived, and therefore, in the near future, you will have to spend again on the procedure of their replacement, which is at all unprofitable.

If, after replacing the oil-challenge caps, the problem could not be eliminated, it means that the replacement was made incorrectly (rarely) or the malfunction was included in the other (often).

A frequent question of car owners: "Why after replacing the oil-challenge caps smoke the car?". Most likely, it was necessary to replace non-caps, and the above-mentioned oil-challenged rings (they are similar to them).
How to check the oil slimming caps? Some car enthusiasts check that it became out of order, caps or rings, so: if smoke goes out of the exhaust pipe 1-2 minutes - then these are caps, and if it does not disappear, then it is rings.
Neglect this operation, or it is not worth it for it. After all, for the failure of small rubber seals, there are great faults of larger nodes of the internal combustion engine up to the complete stop of the "car heart".

Outlooking caps, or, as they are also called - valve oil seals / valve glands, primarily prevent excess oil from entering the engine. Just like most parts of the engine, they are made of special rubber and weanly wear out and less efficiently work: separated and passed the excess oil. And this, in turn, leads to an increase in oil costs. Today we will try to figure out not only in the fact that there are engineering caps, but even within the reasons and the first signs of their wear.

What such oiling caps.

The oiling caps are needed in engines in order to prevent oil entering and small garbage in the combustion chamber. They are often called valve glands, and this name fully reflects the role they perform.

The oil slimming caps are located directly on the valve rods, and consist of three main parts:

• Base;
• Proper cap;
• Spring.

The base is a sleeve made from steel. She plays the role of the frame of this part and gives it the necessary strength. A proper cap is the main item of the part. It is made of special, resistant to high temperatures and exposure to rubber friction. The cap is installed inside the sleeve, and being mounted on the valve, fits the rod tightly and removes the oil. And the spring is mounted in a special ring excavation cap and provides its most dense adjacent to the rod.

As for the oil that these caps should be removed, it is fed to the gas distribution mechanism with an oil pump. It is designed to lubricate the timing of the timing experiencing friction and increase their resource. At the same time, its ingestion of cylinders through the valve groups is extremely undesirable, because, burning, it forms a nagar accumulating on their walls.

It should be noted that in modern internal combustion engines, oil-sensitive caps have to function in fairly harsh conditions of high temperatures and increased mechanical loads. In addition, substances contained in the removable lubricant are negatively affected. Therefore, the manufacturers of oilmaging caps are used to manufacture the most durable, friction-resistant, thermal and chemical exposure materials.

Location of oilseed caps in the engine

On the cylinder block installed a head with camshafts and valves. The valve rod moves through the guide sleeve. The heat gap between the leg and the sleeve is closed with caps. The gland is located so that the oil from the head does not fall into the combustion chamber. The neck of the camshafts produce oil under pressure, and the rest of the nodes - at the expense of splashing. After removing the head of the engine block and switchgear, you can see the location of the glands in the valve seats.

Wear oil surcharge Caps

Like any other detail of the internal combustion engine, which regularly experiencing a whole combination of negative impacts of various kinds, oiling caps gradually, but steadily wear out. Their most loaded rubber part over time loses elasticity, cracks appear in it. In addition, over time and under the influence of high temperatures, imminently weakens the clamping forces of the spring. As a result, the wear of the oil-challenge caps leads to the fact that the oil is not removed from the valve rods and it enters the combustion chamber of the internal combustion.

As practice shows, the resource of oil-circulation caps, installed in modern internal combustion engines, is approximately 100,000 mileage kilometers. After the car passed this distance, they are subject to replacement. Experts also recommend changing the oil-circulation caps and in the engines of cars, which for a long time were derived from operation.

In addition, it often happens that the oil surcharge caps for one or another reasons are extended prematurely. In such cases, they, of course, also require replacement to new ones. The fact that the time of this kind of engine repair came, testifies several characteristic features.

Signs of wear

Significantly increased oil consumption;The following signs may indicate about the wear of the oil-circulation caps:

• The appearance of nagar on the spark plug electrodes;
• The appearance of exhaust gases of blue at the time of engine warming up.

The increase in the "oil appetite" of the engine with the wear of the oil surcharge caps is quite logical and explained. The fact is that the lubricant, which is not removed with them from the valve rods, enters the cylinders and burns. Accordingly, it is irrevocably lost from the lubrication system of the power unit, and the oil has to be treated more often than usual.

Since the oil burns, the combustion products that have blue are outward, staining in the corresponding color exhaust gases. When the engine is warmed up, the oil burns almost completely, so the blue smoke disappears.

Cryo it, if the oil, not filmed by cap, falls into the cylinders, then its smallest drops are settled on the electrodes of the spark plugs. Accordingly, after the combustion, Nagar is formed on them.

The consequences of wear of oil surgery caps

As soon as the listed signs of wear of the oil-challenge caps are beginning to manifest, it should be checked by checking the gas distribution system, and special attention should be paid to precisely oiling caps. Experienced motorists do it on their own, less sophisticated sent to the service station, where the diagnosis produces experienced specialists.

It should be noted that it is not recommended to operate the engine with worn oil-free caps categorically. As practice shows if you ignore this defect and not eliminate it, it is almost inevitable:

• Reduced power of the power unit;
• At idle it will begin to stop periodically;
• Turnover will "swim";
• Compression will significantly fall;
• On the cylinders, pistons and valve saddles will appear Nagar.

As for Nagara, his appearance is really a very serious "bell", since its formation may well lead to a very expensive overhaul of the power unit.

How to replace the oilmaging caps without removing the head of the cylinder block

If the problem with the wear of the oil-challenge caps was timely detected by the driver, it can replace them without removing the head of the cylinder block. In a situation where the solution to the problem was tightened, it will take to dismantle the parts to remove the naughty from the pistons and valves. Depending on the car and engine model, the process of replacing the oil-challenge cap will differ. But you can select several main steps common to all machines: before you begin to replace the oil-challenge caps, you need to give the engine to the engine to completely cool; Next, the lid of the gas distribution mechanism is removed; Marks on the crankshaft and distribution lines, after which the drive weakens and the distribution shaft is removed;

The pushing springs of the valve is dismantled - "dismissed"; Using Pastern or Canggu, it is necessary to remove the wear oil clipping cap from the valve rod; Butter lubricate the valve stem and the inner surface of new caps, after removing the spring from them; Install in the rim of the gland and put on the rod, and then write to the rest of weak shocks; Springs wear on the cap and drummer valves in the reverse order. If there is a chance that the engineering caps are faulty, there is a long time, it will be necessary to remove the head of the cylinder block and carry out a full-fledged replacement, with the cleaning of the engine elements from Nagara.

Is it always helps installing new caps

Of course, the replacement of the caps, especially if it does not take the engine head, is not a panacea. It happens that the engine and after replacing the oil-challenge cap eats oil. In this case, there is a possibility that an error or negligence has been made when working. For example, the gland is not completely pressed or at all. But, as a rule, the problem lies in piston rings. The engine will have to disassemble (remove the head), remove the pistons and change the piston rings. They change the whole set.

Sometimes it happens that the car smokes after replacing the oil-giving caps. In this case, the reason lies in the rings. Most often, this means that there were stakes during the repair: incorrectly chopped caps are incredible or not replaced at all. If the caps are pressed not to the end, then during operation will fly with everyone, so to speak the consequences.

In rare cases, when the car smokes and consumes oil in excess, it can help without replacing the oil-challenge caps of the piston rings. For this procedure, a special fluid will be required, which is poured into the wells of spark plugs (after twisting the latter).

Before starting the procedure, it is necessary to set all the pistons about the same position. To do this, chopsticks are inserted into the candle channels and the rotation of the nut for the nut is achieved by alignment for one level. After that, the cutter is poured into the holes.

After 4-6 hours, it is necessary to remove the residues of the liquid from the cylinders. To do this, the candle canals are covered with a cloth and the engine is scrolled several times by the starter. Then the candles are screwed into place and the engine starts. It will not happen immediately. Perhaps you will need several attempts. In the process of warming up the exhaust pipe will be filled with a gray smoke. This is a normal phenomenon that passes after the engine warming at idle. As soon as smoke stops, the engine must be drowning and immediately change the oil completely. The remains of coke sediments will burn out for another 100-200 km.

The difference between the oil-giving caps and oil-chained rings.

Often, inexperienced car owners ask how to determine what stands on their car: rings or caps. The answer lies in the fact that for optimal operation of the engine, both oil-free rings and caps are needed. Rings remove oil residues from a moving piston and provide lubrication of the piston, and the oil surfactant caps are installed on the legs of the valves. In fact, both spare parts perform the same function: protect the combustion chamber from oil entering.

Oil contacts in the combustion chamber of DVS is fraught with the appearance of nagar on the valve and on the walls of the cylinder of the gas distribution chamber. As a result, the engine will work worse and will fail faster. Among other things, the oil entering the combustion chamber worsens the quality of the gasoline mixture and clogs the grooves of the piston rings.

What you need to pay attention to when buying an oil-challenge caps:

Of course, it is recommended to use only those caps that are intended for a particular engine, but it is not always possible and appropriate. First, new caps on the old motor can be quite by the way and improve the fit, secondly, the original caps may be expensive or inaccessible and makes sense to order analogues if the replacement is necessary here and now.

In order to find the desired cap and he did not swallow and approached the size of the following selection rules:

1. Analogue can be higher than 0.5 mm only. Otherwise, the springs dish can damage the cap.
2. The diameter of the cap cannot be too large, should be freely pass through the valve spring.
To date, domestic manufacturers of caps are inferior to imported.

In order to avoid buying low-quality or counterfeit products, purchase oil-free caps and other spare parts in our online store. We guarantee the correct selection of spare parts and provide a replacement of spare parts or reimbursement in case of marriage or improper selection.

The oil surcharge caps are needed to prevent oil entering the combustion chamber and are located between the timing valves and guide bushings.

In the system of gas distribution, intake and exhaust valves are used. The upper part of the valve is always exposed to an oily fog formed the rotation of the camshaft, and the lower part is in the middle of the suspension from the gasoline vapor (intake valve) or the heated exhaust (exhaust valve).

The normal operation of the camshaft is provided by lubricant, but its hitting to the combustion chamber must be prevented, otherwise the burned oil forms a nagar on the working surface of the valve, cylinder and piston. As a result, the engine will be curls: its characteristics will deteriorate, and the wear will accelerate repeatedly.

Masonry caps prevent Nagar Education: They remove the oil from the rod so that it does not turn out to be in the middle of a combustible mixture. The design of the gland is quite simple: it is a rubber cap, inside which the reinforced steel sleeve and the expendillary spring are located, providing high-quality clutch cap and rod. Important value is the material of the gland: modern producers use acrylate rubber or second-headed - these materials provide good quality clamps.

When to change the oil-challenge caps?

When the engine is running to the glands there are very high load. In addition to the purely mechanical exposure, the oiling caps have to withstand the aggressive exposure to the oil into the exhaust gases. The long-term operation of the salon leads to the fact that the rubber begins to solve, as a result of which the working surface is abrasion.

Of course, it can always be said that the oil-challenge caps are the consumable element, and its wear is a normal phenomenon. It is so, but there is one inconvenient circumstance - to change the glands is quite difficult. To get to them, it will be necessary to perform a lot of unnecessary actions.

However, the replacement of the salinists is not so often: one set of oil-dialing caps on average is "passing" about 100 thousand kilometers.

Masonry caps: wear signs

The fact that the oiling caps are time to change, can be understood by the following signs:

1. Excessive oil consumption. Such a sign is in most cases talking about the wear of the glooms. An increase in oil consumption is also noted when wearing piston rings, but in this case, the oils can be found in the Sapuna pipe.

2. Exhaust having an explicitly noticeable shade of blue. This symptom manifests itself due to the fact that the oil immediately after starting the engine enters the cylinder and begins to burn, manifesting in the form of a blue smoke coming out of the exhaust pipe.

3. Uniform oil consumption, regardless of operating conditions. If the oil does not flow into the pipe nozzle, and the flow rate is high and unchanged - the glands are clearly not in order, and they must be changed.

4. Nagar formation on ignition candles. Increased wear of oilmaging caps leads to the fact that the candles are poured by oil, up to the engine troops.

Detection of one or more signs usually suggests that the glands are worn. If the symptoms described above have been observed for a long time, then in the nearest queue it is necessary to take care of the replacement of the seals, otherwise further ride can lead to deposits

Replacing the oilmaging caps without removing the head

The decision to replace the glands when the symptoms are found - this is a very right step.. Sometimes drivers are trying to solve the problem without the "surgical" intervention using various additives and additives, allegedly softening rubber and extending the service life of the oil-challenge caps. This decision should not be taken: additives or no effect on the material of the glands, or they soften them too much, as a result of which rubber wear is only increasing.

Replacing the seals without removing the head - the process is complex, therefore it is worth paying long time, and all the actions perform very carefully. How to change engineering caps? The work algorithm is quite cumbersome, but all these operations must be carried out consistently and very scrupulously:

1. First of all, it is necessary to wait until the engine cools, and all its elements will switch to the "waiting mode". After that, you can proceed to work.

2. The first step is to remove the timing cover. It is necessary to act neatly so that the gasket is not damaged (it's not worth picking the cover with a screwdriver).

3. Next, you need to set both shaft (crankshaft and distribution) by tags. Details should be labeled so as not to confuse when assembling the engine, and even better all your actions to record. When removing camshaft, you need to loosen its drive. Shot camshaft is desirable to inspect the degree of wear - this will help save time and strength in the further operation of the car.

4. The next step is to die valve. To do this, take advantage of a special device. The bridge bracket must be fixed on the attachment heel of the bed, and the other end is installed by the ring directly on the springs plate of the valve. Pressing the lever, it is necessary at the same time with the help of a tweezer pull off a cracker from a plate. After that, valve pushers can be removed.

5. Considering the fact that 1 and 4 pistons are at the top point, start replacing the seals best with them. This is due to the need for support for damping valves - pistons will provide it.

6. Having finished with equipping, it is necessary to extract the springs and a plate. Next, you need to take a collet puller and consolidate it on the cap. Shifting the ship up the puller rod, you need to strike at the top up, thus reliably and remove the cap. It is worth refraining from the implementation of this operation with the help of the passage - the fact is that the boarding site for the cap is very easy to break, and even a slight compressive force may apply to it by irreparable damage, the elimination of which will cost much more expensive than the acquisition of a tool with a collet clamp.

7. After removing the seals, it is worth it to check the rod and its guide. The motivation of these actions is the same as when checking the camshaft - using the case, it is worth it from repairing maximum benefits.

8. Now that all previous steps are made, you can install new oilmaging caps. To do this, you need to remove the springs and insert the glands in the mandrel, pre-pin the oil on the rod.

10. The next step is a sequence of actions, the inverse one that was used in the analysis: all elements are installed and drought. Having done these operations the required number of times, the replacement of oil-challenged caps can be considered complete. It remains only to install all the items into place and adjust each system.

Video: Replacing the oilmaging caps

Outcome

Replacing the oil-free cap without removing the head can easily be performed independently. It is only important to keep track of your actions carefully and comply with the correct sequence, but the qualitatively done work is worth it - the engine with the updated glands will function normally, without delivering to its owner not the slightest inconvenience.