Why won't the engine start if the starter is turning. The starter motor turns the engine, but the engine does not start. Why does the car turn not start?

Turning the ignition key, the driver observes the same picture every time. The dashboard lights will first come on to indicate fuel availability and battery power. In the extreme position, the starter turns on and starts to turn the crankshaft. A few turns of the crankshaft is enough to start a working engine, but what to do when, when the starter is working, but the car stubbornly does not want to start? A variety of malfunctions can be the culprit for this situation, because several automotive systems provide the normal operation of the motor at once.

Starting the internal combustion engine. How does this happen?

A car engine works only if several conditions are met:

1. A sufficient amount of air-fuel mixture enters the cylinders.
2. At a certain moment (at the end of the compression stroke) the spark plug generates the required power.
3. The crankshaft and camshaft rotate with strict interaction, ensuring the timely filling of the cylinders with a combustible mixture, the correct functioning of the gas distribution system and the operation of the gas pump in carburetor ICEs.

By turning the ignition key, the driver supplies power to the starter retractor relay, which turns on its electric motor and provides engagement with the crankshaft flywheel ring gear. As it rotates, the crankshaft converts angular momentum into reciprocating pistons and drives the camshaft (or shafts). The latter ensures the timely opening of the valves, due to which the combustion chambers are filled with the fuel mixture at the right time.

The engine power supply system is responsible for its preparation and delivery. As soon as the piston reaches the top point at the end of the compression stroke, the finely dispersed fuel mixture is ignited by the spark formed on the spark plug (in diesel units, ignition occurs due to strong air compression). After that, the microexplosion acts on the piston, which moves downward and makes the crankshaft rotate - this is how the engine start circuit looks like.

Why does the starter turn normally, but the engine doesn't pick up, won't start?

In half the cases when the car refuses to start, the starter is to blame. At the same time, the other half falls on situations where the starter regularly rotates the crankshaft, and the engine starts only after repeated attempts, or is completely silent. This can be due to a variety of reasons.

Inattention or negligence of the driver

The notorious human factor can manifest itself in the most unexpected way. For example, a banal lack of fuel or an alarm that blocks the fuel pump. And it also happens that some "well-wisher" clogged the exhaust pipe, or a careless driver, backing up, stuck into a pile of soil or a snowdrift. Such reasons do not belong to the category of technical malfunctions, however, a lot of nerves can be spoiled.

Technical Problems - Starter Malfunctions

Every more or less experienced driver will distinguish the sound of a starter, which regularly rotates the engine, from the useless hum of its electric motor without engagement with the flywheel. When starting to find a malfunction, you should definitely make sure that the starter is functioning normally, and during its operation there are no extraneous knocks, clicks and failures.

The starter is considered faulty in such cases:

1. The bendix gear cannot mesh with the flywheel ring gear. This manifests itself in a loud metal grinding that appears when the starter is turned on. The reason for this phenomenon is the wear of the mating surfaces, chipped teeth, etc. The solution to the problem is to install a new flywheel or crown. The latter can be turned 180 ° and thus do not need to buy a new part.
2. The freewheel or solenoid relay mechanism is stuck. This causes the starter motor to hum, but does not make any attempt to start the engine. In some cases, repeated attempts to turn on the starter help, but this only for some time postpones the need to repair or replace it.
3. The crown is weakened. A similar malfunction happened on a car at the end of the last - the beginning of this century, including the popular "nines". In this case, the starter engages with the crown and begins to turn it, however, it turns with a grinding noise on the flywheel. Only replacing the latter will help.

Video: Watch for everyone who has problems turning on the starter. Helpful advice from an auto electrician.

Fuel system problems

Even the most "vigorous" battery and a new serviceable starter will not be able to start the car if there are problems with the supply of fuel to the cylinders. For this reason, the next thing to check is the engine power supply system.

1.Fuel pump

For carburetor and diesel engines, this unit is located directly next to the cylinder head or block. Injection power plants are equipped with an electric pump, which is installed in the fuel tank. Their work is judged by the brief buzzing that appears after the ignition is turned on. As for the gasoline pumps of carburetor engines, they are mechanically driven by a cam mounted on the camshaft.

It is not difficult to check the operation of the fuel pump - to do this, remove the hose from the carburetor inlet and lower it into a suitable container. After that, fuel should be pumped up using the manual priming lever or by turning on the starter. If the result is negative, we check the passage of gasoline through the fuel line and clean the mesh located in the upper cover of the pump. If this does not help, then inspect the membrane and the valves of the gasoline pump. After replacing damaged and worn parts, the device will be able to work again.

2.Fuel filters

Along the path of the passage of fuel from the tank to the engine, there are several filtering units - coarse mesh, located on the fuel receiver, in the fuel pump and carburetor, and in addition, paper filters located in the cut of the fuel line. The intensity, and even the possibility of supplying fuel to the internal combustion engine, depends on their purity. If you find a blockage, clean or replace the filter elements.

3. Choke and nozzles

Gasoline internal combustion engines operate on a fuel mixture that is prepared in the carburetor or intake manifold (for injection cars). In the first case, the fuel passes through a whole system of channels, nozzles and nozzles that are located in the carburetor. In the second, it is supplied by injectors according to signals from the electronic engine control unit (ECU).

The air supply is metered using a throttle valve, which, depending on the engine design, can be mechanically or electrically driven. Clean the parts of this unit and the choke itself. Also, check if fuel is supplied to the cylinders. If you are dealing with an injection vehicle, then press on the union valve located at the bottom of the fuel rail - at the same time, gasoline should flow from there under pressure. If the trickle is too weak, then we check the filters, the fuel line and the pressure relief valve of the fuel pump.

In carburetor engines, the fuel supply can be judged by sharply opening the throttle - in this case, a portion of fuel will be injected from the sprayer of the accelerator pump into the diffuser. In addition, for gasoline powertrains, inspect the spark plugs - they should not be dry. Otherwise, check the presence of a control signal on the injectors. If everything is in order with this, then you should unscrew the ramp mount and move it away from the manifold in order to inspect the spray nozzles when starting the engine. The absence of fuel jets or their low intensity indicates the need to clean or replace the injectors.

As for diesel engines, they supply fuel under high pressure, and a much more complex pump (high pressure fuel pump) and nozzles of a special design are responsible for this. To repair these units, special equipment is required, so in this case it is better to contact a specialist.

Something else useful for you:

Video: The starter hums, but the engine does not turn

4. Violations in the operation of electronic systems

To check the ignition system, unscrew and remove the spark plug from one cylinder of the engine. Having installed the tip of the high-voltage wire on its contact nut, the spark plugs touch the cylinder head with the skirt and turn the engine with a starter. In this case, a powerful spark of a purple or blue hue should appear on the contacts. If the spark is too weak (or it does not exist at all), then we check the operation of the ECU, ignition coils and distributor (for an old-design ICE).

Other causes of difficult starting when the starter is running

1. The timing belt is torn, or weak and jumped a few teeth - in this case, the valve timing turns out to be knocked down, due to which the engine cannot start. It is enough to replace and set the belt according to the marks, unless such a nuisance ends with the meeting of the pistons with the valves - in this case, an overhaul of the engine will be required.
2. The crankshaft rotates with a noticeable force, which can be caused by various mechanical damage to the crank mechanism and the cylinder-piston group. Check if the engine cranks when you try to start it in high gear "from tow" (for manual transmissions) or by rotating the crankshaft by the pulley of cars with automatic transmissions. Relatively light rotation indicates that the cause of the malfunction is hidden elsewhere.
3. One of the attachments is jammed, which creates increased resistance to rotation of the motor shaft. To search for the "weak link", it is necessary to loosen and remove the belt, and then try to manually crank the pump, generator, air conditioning compressor or power steering pump. If a breakdown occurred far from the service station, then you can only get to the nearest car service on those cars in which the pump is driven by a timing belt. On other engines, you can try to connect the crankshaft pulley to the coolant pump with something suitable - a rope cut from the inner tube with a rubber strip, etc.
4. Failure of the sensors connected to the ECU - the position of the crankshaft (DPKV), Hall, etc. Due to their breakdown or improper operation, the engine control unit incorrectly regulates the combustible mixture or injects and ignites fuel at all at the wrong time when it is necessary ...
5. Sometimes the fault or misinterpretation of the signals of one or another sensor is caused by electromagnetic interference from the starter and other electrical units. In this case, it is difficult to identify the malfunction, so it is possible that you will have to turn to specialists for advice.

Seal

The car does not start, the starter turns - an unpleasant situation that anyone can get into. Basically this is a problem of used, well-worn cars, such a situation will force any novice driver to understand at least a little about his car. What are the reasons and what to do, we will try to understand the details.

What is required for the engine to work?

In order for the engine to work, it needs certain conditions, namely:

1. Fuel availability
2. Availability of air
3. Compression
4. Timing timing
5. Ignition (spark)

If something from this list is faulty, the engine will not start, no matter how hard you try. Hence, we need to check that all conditions are met. It is also necessary for the starter to turn, otherwise the engine will not start, but cars with a manual transmission can be started from a pusher, this will not work with a machine.

Timing

If the starter turns pretty quickly and evenly, and the engine does not start, most likely the belt has broken or there is no compression. Under normal conditions, the engine is cranked by the starter as if by jerks - compression interferes. If you unscrew the candles, then nothing will interfere with him. When the timing belt breaks, some valves remain open, others bend and do not fully adhere - air passes through them perfectly. The pistons go up and down and there is no resistance in the form of compressed air, hence such agility at the starter.

Therefore, first of all, check if something has happened to the belt. If everything is in order with him, we look for the problem further.

Ignition system

There must be a spark, otherwise the fuel will not ignite. The spark comes from the ignition system. On modern machines, this is all checked through computer diagnostics - connect the computer to the connector, and see the malfunction. But this is on the service. At home, everything is done by hand.

How to see if there is a spark? Not a problem, we unscrew the candles from the engine, put high-voltage wires on them, put them on the ground - on the body, on the engine, no matter what - and try to start the engine. The spark should be clearly visible, especially if the area is dark. If there is a spark, the problem is most likely not in the ignition, if there is no spark, we are looking for where it was lost, bad candles, break through the wires, distributor, coil, power cut, control unit, depending on who has which system.

Fuel

With fuel, everything is also simple - either it is there or it is not. With the plugs unscrewed, when scrolling with the starter, gasoline flies through the plug holes just fine! If nothing arrives, fuel does not enter the cylinder. Maybe someone drained all the gasoline at night? In any case, one must look for a reason. The most harmless is the fuse for the fuel pump, which has accidentally blown out. A penny part and easy to change (if you have a carburetor, don't worry, you don't). Sometimes the alarm can turn off the fuel pump, especially if it turns off or the battery is discharged - this is their standard function.

And then any part of the fuel system can break down - the filter can get clogged and not let the fuel through, the pipe will burst somewhere, the wire will oxidize or burn out, all this must be looked for. It is best to check the fuel pressure in the rail, if there is fuel under pressure, and in the cylinders it is dry, then the injectors do not work. If there is no fuel in the rail, then the pump does not pump, or fuel is lost somewhere along the way, through the same crack in the tube.

Compression

Everything is clear here, there is no compression - the gas will simply fly out of the cylinder, and will not push the piston. As a rule, this is immediately visible, the engine, when scrolling with the starter, starts to turn very cheerfully, with almost no effort, you have to look here, if you don’t find it, take a bucket and go to your neighbor in the garage, let it sprinkle some compression.

In principle, you can think of a bunch of reasons why the starter turns, and the engine does not start, but these are all special cases and there can be thousands of them. We have considered a more systematic troubleshooting.

Problems with starting the engine due to the starter are very common and are rightfully included in the top problems of any motorist. And all because there are a lot of reasons that cause ignition failure. Moreover, their manifestation does not depend on the type of fuel or on the type of engine.

Most often, car owners complain about the starter, which buzzes, but does not turn the engine.

Where to begin?

In general, the fact that the starter turns, or imitates violent activity in other ways, does not yet indicate its normal performance. In order to avoid a heap of unnecessary picking in the insides of the car, you should still start with it.

The starter should not produce anything other than a steady hum. If the starter clicks and makes completely atypical sounds (for example, a dull hum), then it makes sense to take it to a car service.

Yes, overhauling a starter is not the cheapest thing, but in any case it is cheaper than a complete replacement. In the case of foreign cars, it is much cheaper. If the clicks are not heard anywhere and your starter turns normally, but the engine does not start, then the fun begins.

The easiest way to identify the culprit of the problem is through computer diagnostics.

Considering that most car owners are not adapted to work with an on-board computer (which, by the way, is very vain) and other means of electronic diagnostics, they have to contact a car service. The prices requested for the procedure are not always democratic. Having your own autoscanner can solve this, and not only, problem.

If you have no desire either to go to the service, or to poke around with the electronics yourself, then there are several "old-fashioned" ways to independently find out what and where clicks and what the problem is.

What if not a starter?

Despite the huge number of possible problems, the most common ones can be identified:

• Malfunction in the ignition system itself. Typically a problem with spark plug function.
• Battery problems. This is also a very likely reason. Oxidized terminals will not allow it to work normally, and starting the starter idle will only drain the battery more.
• Fuel system problems. Filters, a pump are all at risk.

Each of these points should be discussed in more detail. Diagnostic methods will differ for carburetor and injection engines.

Testing spark plugs

Two problems are most likely here:

1. Soaked candles. This problem can often be found with a carburetor motor. For example, if you try to start an internal combustion engine that refuses to function for a long time, gasoline will flood the candles. There can be no question of any spark in such cases. In such cases, drying is required. Do not forget that regular soaking of candles is only a consequence of an unresolved problem.
2. If the candles are dry, then it is worth checking the electricity supply system itself. To do this, you need to carry out a simple procedure. The wire from the distributor must be connected to the previously removed candle. Next, we make contact with the metal (the candle skirt is leaning against the car iron). For the next step, you will need an assistant who will spin the starter. With a working ignition system, the spark plug will respond with a bright blue spark. If suddenly the spark does not appear, then the problem is detected. On a carburetor engine, these will be coils, and on the injector, the absence of a spark indicates a malfunction of the ignition module.

Battery problems

With the battery, everything is somewhat simpler. First, it's worth checking the terminals for oxidation. In advanced cases, the terminals become overgrown with formations of a bluish color, similar to a fungus. The problem can be solved after major cleaning and removal of oxidation. There are special means to prevent the formation of oxide. They are inexpensive and will come in handy in the glove compartment of any car enthusiast.

To check the battery charge, you will need a multimeter (ammeter). It is an inexpensive but completely irreplaceable device with a huge range of applications.

It is necessary to set the operating mode of the device to measure direct current and lean the black probe against the minus, and the red one against the positive of the battery. If the indicator is slightly more than 12V (ideally 12.6), then everything, in general, is normal. If it is lower, then the battery needs a charge. If the battery is discharged strongly, then you cannot do without a starting device. Next, you need to check the battery for current leakage. If it does not hold the tension at all, then a replacement is necessary. Fortunately, the batteries do not change so often and are quite tolerable.

Checking the fuel system

If all of the above is normal, then it's time to check the fuel system.

Here are some proven ways:

• Method for injection engines. The first bell should be the absence of the proprietary hum of the fuel pump when starting the ignition. This means that the pump engine has not started. Fuel does not enter the main line and there is essentially nothing to set fire to. This can be verified by another method. There is a pressure relief valve on the fuel rail. It is necessary to remove the protective cap and press inward with an oblong object. Gasoline should spray out from there. Then, turn on the ignition, restarting the fuel pump and again go to the valve (of course, turning off the car). We repeat the procedure. If gasoline splashes again, then everything is normal - the fuel supply system is functioning. If not, then the problem is there. Most likely, the power supply to the electric motor of the gasoline pump fails.
• If your vaz or other carburetor car does not start, then it will be easier for you. With the air filter cover removed, slide the throttle lever in the first carburetor chamber. If at this moment gasoline appeared from the sprayer, then everything is in order. On mechanical gasoline pumps, there is the possibility of manual fuel pumping.

Not all possible ignition faults are listed here. It would take more than one article. But, most often, the problem is found precisely in this range. In the event of a breakdown, do not hesitate to contact an auto electrician if you are not able to solve the detected problem on your own.

When an automobile internal combustion engine runs smoothly, starts and stops properly, the owner of the car feels comfortable and does not think about possible problems. But if the car does not start, or the engine starts with great difficulty, you have to look for the causes of the malfunction. The engine can not start when the starter is running for a variety of reasons, ranging from the banal lack of fuel supply, and the defect can also be hidden in the wiring or the engine control system. There are other breakdowns that prevent the internal combustion engine from starting up, and in this article we will consider in sufficient detail why the engine refuses to work in such cases.

Reasons for the lack of starting when the starter turns

When the starter turns, and the car does not start, while the bendix engages with the flywheel, the malfunction of the starting device is practically excluded here. It is also unlikely that the battery is to blame for the defect, and other factors should be taken into account for troubleshooting. So, the main reasons for the phenomenon when the starter turns, but there is no start:

• no fuel enters the cylinders;
• there is no spark in the ignition system;
• exhaust gases do not come out through the muffler;
• fuel overflow occurs;
• the air filter is clogged;
• candles are faulty;
• the burglar alarm fails (especially often the alarm with autostart blocks the operation of the internal combustion engine);
• the power unit itself is faulty.

For carburetor and injection internal combustion engines, diagnostics are performed in different ways, and since the device of a car with a carburetor is simpler than with an injector, it is relatively easy to look for the cause of the defect here. For an experienced driver, it is usually not difficult to detect a breakdown on a carburetor car, you just need to determine the sequence of actions for yourself in finding the cause.

The starter turns, the relay does not work

Another sign of a defect when starting the car: the starter is idling, the crankshaft is in place. In this case, the bendix no longer engages with the flywheel, and here, too, there are several breakdown options:

• the teeth of the bendix are worn out (broken);
• the solenoid relay (BP) does not work;
• bendix scrolls on the shaft.

If the starter turns, the relay does not work at the same time, most likely the contacts of the BP are burnt, there is not enough lubricant on the surface of the core. Also, a sign of a malfunction of the "retractor" can be repeated spinning (with a buzzing) of the bendix idle, and the motor is seized only after several start attempts. The solution to the problem is achieved in two ways:

• replacement of the old BP with a new spare part;
• disassembling the relay with flushing the parts and cleaning the contacts.

If the car has stalled somewhere far on the track, stubbornly does not want to start (it drives in vain), you can try to start using "military tricks":

• when scrolling idle, without letting the bendix stop completely, turn the ignition key all the way to the right, repeat this several times;
• with the engine stopped, gently knock with a hammer on the body of the retractor relay, then try to start the motor;
• After turning on the ignition, close the contacts of the BP and the main "plus" on the starter with a screwdriver, not forgetting to put the car in neutral at the same time.

Also, the "idle" scrolling of the starting device can occur due to a worn out or broken plug (lever) of switching on the bendix, although such a malfunction is not typical, it does not occur so often.

The engine does not start, the relay clicks

Another variant of a defect when the internal combustion engine is turned on: when the key is turned all the way to the right, light clicks are heard, but the engine does not start. And in this case, there are several reasons for the malfunction:

• the contact relay installed in the break of the starter circuit has failed;
• the contact group of the ignition lock is faulty;
• poor contact in the connection of the wires going to the starting device;
• there is no reliable mass of the power unit with a body.

The fuse responsible for starting the internal combustion engine may also blow out, and with such signs the battery may still be discharged (dead). Diagnostics in cases when the relay clicks, but there is no motor start, always start with checking the battery's performance, first of all, measure the voltage at the terminals with a voltmeter with the engine off (should be within 12.4-12.8 Volts).

If the battery is working properly, then it is necessary to inspect the condition of the terminal wires and the terminals themselves on the battery, if there are oxides on them, clean the contacts with a metal brush or emery paper. Then it will not be superfluous to tighten all the nuts connecting the starting device with the electrical wiring (the main "plus", on the retractor relay), check if there is a good mass of the body with the engine.

Injector startup problem, diagnostics and fault finding

The distributed injection system (in other words, the injector) has a more complex device than the carburetor, because of this, troubleshooting in the absence of starting the internal combustion engine becomes more difficult. But there are no unsolvable tasks in the world, here you need to perform diagnostics using the chain check scheme:

• elements of the starting device (starter, its wiring, battery with terminals, relays, and so on);
• electronic engine control system (ECM);
• nodes and parts of the fuel system (TS).

All elements of the injector starting device are fundamentally no different from the carburetor circuit, and since we have already considered all the causes and signs of starter defects, we will not return to this issue. Therefore, we will analyze how the ECM affects a difficult start, and where you need to start its diagnostics.

Diagnostics of the electronic control system of the injection engine

If the "launcher" turns, and the car does not start well or does not start at all, first of all we make an external examination of the high-voltage wires and the ignition module: there should be no cracks, traces of burnout, material stratification, and so on. Then we find out if there is a spark, for this:

As a precaution, it is recommended to disconnect the connectors with the wires that fit the fuel injectors. If there is no spark, this may be the result of a faulty coil, engine control unit, breaks or bad contacts in the wiring are also possible, and the immobilizer that blocks the ignition is often to blame for the absence of a spark. It will also not be superfluous to check the plugs themselves under pressure on a special device, clean them with sandblasting or manually before reinstalling them.

The injection engine may not start due to the breakdown of some sensors, but not all of them affect the start of the internal combustion engine. The car will absolutely not start with a faulty crankshaft position sensor, and if there is no good contact in the wires that fit to it (there is an open circuit). Bad start-up (or lack thereof) occurs due to sensors:

• temperature;
• throttle valve;
• air consumption;
• idle speed regulator.

All malfunctions of the listed parts are determined using diagnostics on a special scanner or computer, the worst option if the ECM is defective. Its performance can only be checked by replacing it with a known good ECU, and the ignition module with hidden defects is checked in the same way.

Unstable start of the injection motor due to the power system

With a fully functional starter and ECM, we proceed to diagnose the elements of the vehicle, first of all, we check the condition of the air filter (it should not be clogged). Then you should make sure that the fuel pump pumps and supplies fuel; when the injection engine is cold started, its operation can be heard immediately after the ignition is turned on (the pump “buzzes” for several seconds, its noise stops on subsequent attempts to start). The electric petrol pump will not supply gasoline if:

• the fuse responsible for the integrity of this electrical circuit has blown;
• the fuel pump relay does not work;
• there is an open in the power wires (no plus or minus);
• the electric pump itself is faulty.

Also, the pump may not provide the pressure required for the system; in order to check it, a dial gauge should be connected to the fuel rail. The working pressure in the vehicle should be in the range from 2.0 to 6.0 bar, depending on the type (model) of the internal combustion engine and the number of revolutions; when the fuel hose is pinched, it can rise to 7 bar. By the way, if the fuel pressure regulator is faulty, and in this case there may be no normal fuel supply, as a result the engine will not start either. Another reason for poor gas flow along the highway is a completely clogged fuel filter. After making sure that the fuel supply is normal, we check if there is the necessary power supply to open the fuel injectors, there are two options for checking:

When the starter is spinning, the carburetor engine does not start

If a carburetor car does not start with a working starting device, a spark may also disappear here, fuel supply problems may arise, but the data of the ignition and power systems differ from the injection systems. The most common defects in cars with a carburetor:

• the mechanical fuel pump does not supply fuel, the most common malfunctions of this unit are a punctured diaphragm, valve leaks;
• the switch does not work;
• the ignition coil overheats;
• the carburetor overflows fuel;
• the central high-voltage wire is broken;
• there is mechanical damage or there are burnouts on the distributor cover;
• defective candles.

If a contact ignition system is installed on the machine, it is necessary to check the gap between the contacts in the distributor, the condition of the contact surfaces, and the serviceability of the capacitor. It should be borne in mind that if the wire suitable for the capacitor is cut off, the car will also not start, another common defect is the sticking or burning of coal in the distributor cover.

The starter is turning, but there is no start due to a malfunction of the engine itself

The car may not start if the power unit itself is faulty, here are the main problems:

• violation of the valve timing (jumped the chain or timing belt);
• due to coagulated low-quality engine oil, valves are stuck and do not close;
• there is no compression in the cylinders, most often this is due to the occurrence of piston rings;
• the head gasket is broken (usually the motor stops starting when it overheats);
• there are cracks in the cylinder head.

On engines with a lower camshaft (for example, ZMZ-402), the motor stops working when the camshaft teeth break, which occurs as a result of their wear. On engines with overhead camshafts, the timing belt often breaks, and if, due to the design features of the valve, they "meet" the pistons, this leads to a rather serious repair of the internal combustion engine (it is necessary to change the valves, and sometimes even the pistons and the block head).

And, finally, the rarest option for the lack of starting when the starter is spinning is the shut-off of the exhaust gas outlet in the exhaust system, here the cause may be freezing of water in the exhaust pipe, a baffle in the resonator or muffler torn off inside, which also blocked the outlet. In such cases, the internal combustion engine starts up and immediately stalls, and there is no smoke from the rear pipe at all, there is no air pressure.

Surely every driver knows what an unpleasant problem it is when the engine completely refuses to start. Yesterday the car started up, but today it completely failed. This trouble can happen anywhere and absolutely suddenly, but before troubleshooting, you need to know the reasons why the car will not start. In this article, we will analyze why the car does not start, the causes and troubleshooting methods.

First of all, you need to immediately drop the panic. It doesn't matter where it happened, but if you are on the roadway, then the first step is to turn on the hazard warning lights, and also try by all available means to remove the car from the road. Now you can search with peace of mind for what reasons the engine of your car will not start.

If the engine does not start even without a filter, then the ignition system is faulty. To evaluate the operation of this system, you can unscrew one of the candles, and then examine its state. The spark plug electrodes must not touch each other and must be clean. If any deposits or blackness are visible on them, then such a plug must be replaced and try to start the car again. If it is not possible to change the candle, then it can be heated on fire for a while and wiped with sandpaper. Alternatively, you can use the rubbing part of the matchbox. As a rule, after that, the engine of the car starts up easily and can safely get to the place of high-quality diagnostics.

In most cases, a black plug means not only plug failure, but also an increased fuel content in the mixture, which most often indicates an incorrect carburetor adjustment.

But if you are sure that the candle is not the cause of the problem, then you need to check for a spark.... It is worth warning right away that this can not be done on every car, since the ignition coils of some cars do not withstand such a load. To do this, grasp the high-voltage cable with one hand and slightly lean its contact against the cylinder block so that there is a distance of at least 5 millimeters between it and the latter.

Ask your partner to turn on the starter for a short time, if you see a spark, then the ignition system is in perfect order, or the spark plug still needs to be replaced. If there is no spark, then check the condition of the cable, wipe it and the distributor from moisture, and open the distributor cover. In a contact ignition system, it is enough to simply clean the contacts, which usually always solves the problem. In BSZ, it makes no sense to do this and diagnostics must begin with checking all contact connections, and then start changing one element after another one by one.

Otherwise, if the candle is black and wet, then you simply "flooded" it. This is a very urgent problem for those drivers who are used to starting the engine at the same time as pressing the accelerator pedal. Because of this, their car firmly ceases to "grasp" and then the case ends with a planted battery.

To avoid this, it is necessary to dry the candles. To do this, they are twisted and warmed up on a gas stove. Then they are thoroughly wiped, after which they are installed on the car. If you are in a hurry, you can use a trick that involves quickly drying and blowing out the cylinders. To do this, press the gas pedal to the floor and turn on the starter. After 2-3 revolutions of the engine, gradually release the pedal, it is at this moment that the motor, as a rule, grabs.

If you are the owner of a car with an injection system and it does not start, then pay attention to the dashboard. The corresponding "Check Engine" icon may light up on it, which indicates specific reasons. You can find out the exact location of the breakdown using a diagnostic computer.

Starter malfunction

More serious problem when the starter motor does not crank the engine at all... Here really
there can be a place for panic, however, many reasons are completely removable.

So, you turned the key, but instead of the usual turning on of the starter, nothing happened, then check the reliability of the battery terminals. Most likely, they just came off, which means that they need to be tightened, in some situations even cleaned if they have oxidized.

Among the reasons for the failure of the starter may be the fact that the battery is simply discharged.... In this case, it will sluggishly spin the engine, or even at all, only the retractor will work. If you are confident in charging it, check that all contact connections are secure.... Many vehicles are equipped with a special starter relay that reduces the current and reduces the stress on the conductors. It is this that can have poor contact if it was established on its own.

You can find out about this by the fact that even the retractor with a characteristic click did not work. If the retractor is triggered, but the starter does not turn, then try again. Many cars, due to their age and "cleanliness" of contacts, are not always able to start the first time. Otherwise, the starter must be cleaned, and maybe even replaced..

Sometimes the car will not start due to the fact that the starter turns, but does not turn the engine. This means that a special ring fell off the flywheel, which caused the bendix to slip. Only replacing the faulty unit will help here.

If your car still won't start even after the above measures, then the reasons lie elsewhere. Only service station employees will help you find out about this. To get to the station, just ask a friend to take you in tow, and then head to the nearest repair site.

You turn the ignition key, but the car does not start - the starter turns, but does not grasp, as usual. And what is the reason is not clear, at first glance everything is working properly and works flawlessly. But the problems are somewhere lurking, they need to be identified. The reasons for this behavior are mostly different for carburetor and injection engines, but there are also similar ones. And the fact is that there are significant differences in the design of the ignition and the fuel system. In fact, it turns out that carburetor motors are much more complicated. So, big and about the reasons for the appearance of such a breakdown.

A breakdown can cover almost anywhere, so after several failed attempts, check to see if gasoline enters the combustion chambers. Unscrew the candle and look at its electrode, it should be wet. If not, then the gasoline does not enter the combustion chambers. Now remember if the gasoline has run out? If this is the case, then refueling will save, but if not, you will have to continue looking for a malfunction.

One of the vulnerabilities is the fuel pump. It is driven by a camshaft rod and is installed next to the ignition distributor. It may have the following breakdowns:

1. A decrease in the length of the stem leads to the fact that the membrane stops moving and pumping gasoline.
2. Failure of valves. In this case, the membrane moves, and the car does not start, since gasoline is still not pumped over. There are two valves inside the fuel pump - for inlet and outlet. The problem can be solved only by replacing these elements.
3. The destruction of the membrane, springs, metal elements leads to the fact that fuel does not enter the carburetor.

On sale you can find pump repair kits. As practice shows, the probability of qualitatively repairing this unit is one in ten, so it will be much cheaper and easier to purchase an assembled gas pump.

A filter is installed in front of the pump, which should be changed at least once every 10 thousand km. The quality of gasoline and the condition of the tank make themselves felt, the filter becomes clogged. There is also a small filter at the inlet to the carburetor, the size of it is like a thimble. To remove it, you need to use the keys to "12" or "13", depending on the specific model of the carburetor. Cleaning is most convenient with a toothbrush.

But there is one more small breakdown that can infuriate any car owner. The motor works normally, without interruptions, but suddenly, for no apparent reason, it simply stalls, it does not work to start. And after a while he can grab and continue to work without problems. These are the “mood swings” that occur when the spring between the float and the needle comes off. This also happens, as practice shows, but only very rarely. As long as the needle moves by itself, fuel enters the chamber without problems. But as soon as she gets a little jammed, gas stops flowing into the carburetor.

On cars of the classic VAZ 2101-2107 series, similar symptoms occur if the valve adjustment is violated. In this case, the starter turns, and the engine does not start, or it catches and instantly stalls. Usually, starting the engine to a cold one occurs without problems, but as soon as it warms up to operating temperature, problems begin. The reason is that the valves are completely closed by the valves, so gasoline is not supplied to the combustion chambers. The problem is solved by adjusting the valves.

1. There is no power. At the same time, the valve does not open, the engine stalls. If you are on the road and do not have time to look for a breakdown, connect the valve lead to the positive battery lead.
2. Clogged valve orifice. To clean it, you need to remove the air filter housing and unscrew the device. Blow out the holes with compressed air.
3. Failure is not treated, only the valve can be replaced. The temporary solution is to trim the protruding edge of the needle.

Note that the engine needs air to function properly. If the air filter is clogged and does not allow air to pass through, this will cause the starter to turn, but the engine will not start. If none of the above did not save, then one thing remained - clogging of the jets in the carburetor. We'll have to completely disassemble it and clean all channels, getting rid of foreign objects.

Injection power system

Here you need to look for breakdowns in such nodes:

1. The fuel pump installed in the tank. When the ignition is turned on, it starts to work, pumping gasoline under pressure into the rail. If it does not turn on, then the pump is faulty or there is an open in the power circuit. If the pump pumps gasoline without stopping, then the reason lies in another element.
2. If the pump pumps gasoline without stopping, then the reason lies in the pressure sensor. It is installed on the ramp and is designed to monitor the operating mode.
3. The car still does not start (the starter turns) due to the failure of the electromagnetic injectors installed in the ramp. Breakdown of all at once is almost impossible, rather, there is a destruction of the wiring or clogging of the nozzles.
4. Failure of the fuel system sensors leads most often to unstable engine operation, but in some cases to the inability to start it. If the crankshaft position sensor fails, the engine will fail to start.

It is rather difficult to distinguish between the power supply system and the electrical equipment in injection motors. The reason is that these two systems are intertwined with each other, interconnected. Most of the sensors are electrical, but are primarily involved in mixture formation and fuel injection. In fairness, it should be noted that with their help the ignition timing is also controlled.

As is the case with carburetor engines, it is necessary to monitor the condition of the fuel and air filters. There are two filters in the fuel line - fine and coarse filters. The first is located under the bottom of the car, the second directly on the gas pump. If gasoline enters the rail, then there are no problems with filters. There were cases when there was a break in the power supply wire of injectors, coils, sensors, directly at the terminal "30" of the generator.

Ignition system

Everything that was said above about injection motors can be safely transferred to breakdowns in the ignition system. The reason is that most of the same sensors are responsible for the operation of ignition and fuel supply. Even the electronic control unit is responsible for the operation of all components and assemblies of the car. If it fails, there is no way to start the engine. But why does the starter turn the crankshaft and the engine still won't start? One of the reasons is the failure of the ignition coils (all, if there are 4) or the ignition module. This happens extremely rarely, so the engine will be more likely to triple.

A contact or non-contact ignition system is installed in carburetor engines. The following elements can fail in BSZ:

1. Ignition relay.
2. Switch.
3. Hall Sensor.
4. Runner or distributor cover.
5. Low and high voltage wires.
6. Ignition coil.

In contact ignition systems, there is no switch and Hall sensor, instead of the latter, a contact group is installed. She has a limited resource, she can fail at any time.

There is no ignition distributor on injection engines. The moment the voltage is applied to the electrodes of the spark plugs is regulated by a system of sensors and control. And if the starter turns, the car will not start, there is no spark, the reason may be:

1. Ignition module or coils.
2. Electrical wiring.
3. Electronic control unit.
4. Crankshaft or camshaft position sensors.

To identify a breakdown, it is necessary to diagnose all components of the car. Most often, the crankshaft position sensor breaks down, you can check it with a multimeter. The resistance of the winding fluctuates in the range of 550..750 Ohm. But this is a "rough" check, the most accurate picture of the device's performance can be obtained by analyzing the graphs on an oscilloscope. If this device is not available, then the simplest one can be made from a personal computer.

Above, cases were considered when the starter turns, but the engine does not start. But it may also be such that when the ignition key is turned, the starter does not show signs of life at all. Then the breakdown must be looked for in the electric drive, and specifically in the retractor relay. Very often the contacts burn, collapse, breaks occur in the winding. Because of this, the starter does not turn the engine at all, you cannot even hear the click of the retractor relay.

Toyota LiteAce V 1996 - 2007

The pump can be heard running. The candles are black and dry. The 1st and 2nd cylinders are absolutely dry. On the 3rd, a little bit you can catch a pair of benzos. On the 4th, a little more. As if there is no gasoline.

I tried to measure the voltage on the forces, with a tester, it seems, I don't have it (but I read somewhere that it is impossible to measure the impulse voltage with a tester). The temperature in the garage is 5-10 C. There is gas equipment that does not work now, the fuse is pulled out.

After repairs (I changed the force for new ones, changed the generator, power steering, wiring, rewound the harness with electrical tape), the car immediately started up, worked for 5 minutes and stalled. Another 5 minutes and another 4 minutes.

And now I'm twisting, grabbing, for a few seconds, but won't start. The gasoline gauge shows half a tank, I refilled another 5 liters from the can. Explain the search technology. Fuel filter? Is there a pump that buzzes but doesn't work?

5 replies

You can buy with an adapter, you can borrow from the service by leaving a deposit, you can do it yourself. A pressure gauge with a scale of up to 7-10 kg (it is possible from a compressor for inflating tires) and a hose with clamps, even oxygen, nothing will happen to it during the measurement.

Relieve pressure from the ramp and unscrew the spool, pull on the hose (no longer needed, the main thing is to make it easy to see), tighten the clamps. We turn the key and see what the pressure gauge shows.

It will not be possible to measure with a digital tester, during the operation of the injector, it can measure the presence of voltage relative to the mass when the ignition is on.

You can measure it with a dial gauge, the readings will not be very accurate, but this is not necessary, the device will show whether the opening pulses are coming or not.

Alternatively, an LED with a resistance for the injector chip, it will also show the signal flow.

I think we need to observe what happens to the pressure during work. If you have nowhere to connect a pressure gauge, you still need to somehow introduce a tee into the line (for example, from a classic carb), perhaps when the car stalls, the pump stops pressing. If the old injectors are not thrown away, try putting them back. As I understand it, before the replacement, everything worked.

Renovated. It grabbed, but did not start because there was poor contact on one coil. That is, on the chip, I measured the voltages of 12V and 5V and at 0.65 (apparently logical 1). Diagnostics by closing Te1 and E1 gave code 15 which, after erasing, appeared again. The fact is that I altered and lengthened the chips for the reels. And I selected the contacts of the chip by color and did not take into account that they come in different sizes. That is, the chip was inserted with a click. And sometimes voltage was applied to the coil, but more often not. But here's what's interesting. Before, when I didn't have a spark, the candles were always wet, but now they were dry. Everything else was coincidence. Thanks for the advice.

And the possible reasons. It's no secret that difficulties of this kind are always an unpleasant and unexpected surprise for any driver. Surely each of us had to witness a situation when the car does not start, the starter turns but does not grasp. Let's try to figure out why this is happening in order to have an idea of ​​how to behave in such a situation. The fact that the starter turns well already means your battery is healthy. Read how to check the condition of the battery.

Not a single car engine is insured against such a situation. It doesn't matter what the outside temperature is. Let us analyze sequentially what to do for different types of power units.

In the case of a carbureted engine, it is a little easier to determine the reasons for the difficult start. First, let's try to pull out the choke knob (air damper control). If that doesn't help, then move on to finding the spark. Poor contact, oxidized or burnt terminals can make it difficult to start the motor. The same goes for poor coil ground contact. If everything is in order with the spark and there is fuel in the gas tank, then there are problems in adjusting the starting device.

The procedure will be as follows:

The injector has its own peculiarities, which appear in case of problems with starting. With these symptoms, you need to start by checking the fuel pump. This could be due to oxidation of the power terminals. After that, it is necessary to check the level of fuel pressure in the fuel rail. Find the side to which the fuel supply is connected. On the side opposite to it, a valve is located under the cap. Click on it and expect fuel to run from there. If this does not happen, we begin to check the performance of the fuel pump pressure reducing valve and the condition of the fuel filter.

What could be the reason that I twist the starter, but the injection engine does not start - blog readers often ask me? One of the possible troubles is associated with the flooded. This often happens in frosty weather. It is required to wait until they are dry enough. The engine can be cranked with the starter by first removing the injector connectors.

Diesel

Most difficult to start a diesel engine. The fuel in it ignites according to a slightly different principle. The chambers in which the diesel fuel burns up are heated to very high temperatures, after which the diesel fuel is supplied to them together with air, which is ignited by compression. In cold weather, it is advisable to heat the air in the cylinders with glow plugs. If this is not done, then the car may start, but it immediately stalls or works unstably until warming up.

Even the slightest frost or freezing temperature can be enough for starting problems. In a diesel engine, start by checking the condition of the glow plugs. We start by checking the glow plug control unit. For this we need a control lamp. We connect it to the mass and power of the candles, and then turn the key in the ignition lock. In the case of a working unit, the indicator of the control lamp will light up.

Other diesel engine starting problems

Another reason why the starter motor spins for a long time, but the engine fails to start, may be due to the airing of the high pressure pump. First you need to check if there is power to the kill valve. We turn on the ignition and use the already familiar control lamp for this. When connected, the valve should emit clicks, and their absence may just signal its malfunction.

It remains to check the fuel line - we unscrew either the return line of the injectors, or the plug. If there is a manual pumping option, it should be carried out until diesel fuel flows and the air stops flowing. If bleeding fails, then it makes sense to check the fuel filter, which is often clogged with paraffin from the fuel or ordinary dirt.

Friends, these are the main reasons why the engine may not start even with prolonged torsion of the starter. If you have not yet joined the blog subscriber base, I recommend that you do so right now. In the coming days, we are expecting new useful materials from a variety of areas related to the car and its maintenance. For today we will say goodbye!