Engine faults and engine control systems Jil Emgrand (JL4G15-D). Geely Emgrand Second Hands, Malfunctions, Lamps Gili Emgrand Jil Emgrand EC7 does not begin the cause of the cause

the main / Butter

UAZ Patriot, 2.7 liters, 2009 G.V.
Easy became on the move and acceleration. Especially for mannevism. Became like a good foreign car. I can not find out the car, pumped so that a single foreign car is inferior. Like ride.
Alexander

The first sensations of car owners after the service on UAZ Patriot.

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Good afternoon Vladislav. Today I received a parcel with the throat and immediately set the node. Do not know the car. Volga Weighing 1.8t with a place tears with slipping according to our Mountains where she used to go to 3-4 transmission now free on 5th and still goes. On the old node speed 90km. accelerated for 3000-3300 rub. Now 2000-2300UB. on overtaking goes fun to switch to reduced gear.. And at the same time, I love the gas pedal. As long as I am very pleased with the result.

I read a lot about the rose tuning and decided to try. My first sensations - the car has become easier to accelerate. Previously, acceleration was from 3000 now from 2000 about. Already there is pickup. I advise everyone, it really works! Although there were big doubts from me. And about the fact that many write that it is a scam, do not add! At first, try ... Yes, most importantly, the gas pedal is barely sting, and the machine cheerfully accelerates. Previously, after resetting gas, there was a feeling that there was someone in the tug, he slows down. ... After the gas reset to the transfer, the car continues to confidently move forward. With the subsequent pressure of the gas, the car has been accepted confidently without a jerk.

Vortex Tingo. 1.8 liters., 2011.
I did tuning a drosel. I go with him for 1.5 years. Effect is. No problems are trying to put up, there was no. The car starts great, both in summer and in -35 in winter. Consumption declined.

The throttle knot was finalized. From the service to the house really enjoyed the ride. No longer need to put pressure on the pedal. Just put my leg and car rides. On the nose boldly undermines. The deep stupid pit was disappeared at a set of speed from 70 to 100km / h. And the consumption has fallen while 0.5 liters. Thank you so much for the perfectly done work !!! Super!!!
After finalizing the car, even with Condela, is actually riding!

The above illustrations will simplify the definition of one or another malfunction. Noticing any deviations from the norm on your car (extraneous noises, knocks, leaks, signs of uneven wear, disorders in manageability, etc.) Localize the place of a fault site, compare it with a pattern and refer to the table by the corresponding link. If it is not possible to determine the exact source of foreign noise, then it is necessary to do this at least approximately. Then, using illustration and table to identify a specific malfunction.

Figure and the table below shows the most common sources of noise, but similar signs can occur in other places of the car.

If it is impossible to determine the location of the fault in the figure, then it is necessary to try to identify the reason for the main categories and items shown in the table.

Note:
In the figure, the following positions indicate:
13 - Ambacious front suspension racks
2 0 - Pedal Node
6, 10 - rear gear reducer

Position number in the picture Sign of malfunction Possible reason Remedy
Engine
1 Characteristic high metal knock from under the valve engine cover Violation of gaps in valves Adjust the clearance in the valves (see Chapter "Mechanical Engine")
Broken (elevated wear) support (bear bearings) camshafts Replace or repair the timing elements (see the chapter "Mechanical Engine")
Violation in the work of hydrocompensators
Slagging Xi / w Shipping Noise from under the front engine cover (front of the engine) Reduced tension of the timing chain (gas distribution mechanism) Tensioning the chain (see chapter "Mechanical part of the engine")
WITNESS OF STRIRS WITH DRAWING VALLS Replace (see the chapter "Mechanical part of the engine")
Increased wear of the timing chain Replace (see the chapter "Mechanical part of the engine")
Call metal knock out of the middle part of the engine Stuffed pistons / piston finger due to increased wear Replace (see the chapter "Mechanical part of the engine")
Deaf metal knock from the bottom of the engine Increased crankshaft wear Replace (see the chapter "Mechanical part of the engine")
Increased wear of the liners of the bearing bearings of the crankshaft Replace (see the chapter "Mechanical part of the engine")
Increased wear of liners of rod crankshaft necks Replace (see the chapter "Mechanical part of the engine")

Note:
All described faults exhibit themselves mainly when revolutions and / or engine load changes

Deaf, short knock from the bottom of the engine, when it starts (two strikes) Wear of the thrust bearings (half-collenges) of the crankshaft Replace (see the chapter "Mechanical part of the engine")
Knock (click) when moving the ignition key to the "Start" position Clicks, while the key is in the "Start" position, arise due to the fault of the retaining winding In an emergency, you can, using a screwdriver with an insulating handle, move the findings of the retaining starter. But, nevertheless, it is necessary to study the problem in more detail (see the head of the engine "Electrical Equipment")
Scripping, screech, whistle from the front of the engine Wear or decreased belt tension / auxiliary equipment belts
Summary of the drive belt of the auxiliary equipment when turning the steering wheel (in some cases until it stops) Wearing or reducing the tension of the belt / belt drive of the auxiliary equipment (for cars with hydraulic steering amplifier) Tension or replace (see chapter "Mechanical Engine")
Couples from the windscarette

Engine overheating due to violations in the cooling system

ATTENTION
Being extremely careful when opening the hood and unscrewing the radiator cork (see "Caution and safety regulations when performing work on a car").

. Make a stop and give the engine to cool. Perhaps the reason consists in a very high ambient air temperature.
. Check the fuses of the cooling system and the function of the fan (see the chapter "Action in Emergency Situations")

Loss of engine power
Because of its overheating.

Note:
Coolant temperature pointer to be in the Red Zone

Insufficient heat dissipation as a result of clogging of cooling system of the cooling system with unauthorized objects (road trash, leaves) Clear the radiator using a special brush
Cleaning the cooling system fan or electrical wiring Check the technical condition and replace (see the chapter "Cooling System")
Mechanical damage to the radiator Replace (see the chapter "Cooling System")
Cooling fluid leak through loose connections of nozzles or damage to the radiator, block of cylinders or block head Detect leakage and eliminate a malfunction (see the chapter "Cooling System")
Insufficient coolant level in the system Add liquid to the required level

Smoke from the subcarption
Space

Note:
After repairing the engine for a hundred

After repairing the engine, engine oil falls on the block and head of the cylinder head, if it does not remove it, rub with a clean rag, then after switching on and as the engine warms up from under the hood, it will begin to go smoke - this is due to the burning of the oil. As a rule, there is no danger, but it is still better to drown out the motor and clean the block and the head of the block with a clean rag. Ensure that after repairing the head and the cylinder block is cleaned of the drums of engine oil, if necessary, clean, using a rag and solvent
Cotton in the intake manifold

The offset of the ignition ahead in the direction of the earlier

ATTENTION
This malfunction can lead to a serious damage to the inlet system and the connecting rod.

2 Cotton in the exhaust pipe of the release system

Ignition advance angle displacement in the direction of later

ATTENTION
In case of untimely repair and eliminating a malfunction, a failure of a catalytic neutralizer is possible.

Repair (see the chapter "Electrical Equipment")
Transmission
3 Difficult inclusion or gear shift (for cars with manual gearbox)

The clutch "leads", that is, the clutch coupling completely does not turn off when the pedal is full.

Note:
At the same time, when switching, the characteristic blow of synchronizers is heard

. Adjust the clutch pedal
. Replace the clutch drive (see Chapter "Clutch")
Malfunction of the gear shift drive cable Replace the gear shift cable (see the chapter "Gearbox")
Loose fit or wear blocking rings and synchronizer cones Eliminate a malfunction or replace the part (see chapter "Transmission")
Weakening springs synchronizers Replace the synchronizer springs (see chapter "Gearbox")
Oil inappropriate brand Pour the oil of the required brand (see chapter "Gearbox")
4

Deaf, tickling short-term knock outgoing from the gearbox when switching (cars with manual transmission)

Note:
In this case, the knock disappears with a double clutch exit.

Increased wear of the synchronizer (s) gearbox
5

Deep knock when switching gear (mechanical and automatic transmission) coming out of the central tunnel.

Note:
This is usually two or three blows.

Increased wear of the crosses of the cardan shaft (typical for all-wheel drive and rear-wheel drive cars) Replace (see Chapter "Drive Shafts and Home Transfer")
Unbalance of the Cardan Vala. Balancing (see chapter "Drive shafts and main transmission")
6

Metal "crunch" and knock when turning a car

Note:
At the same time, the car "breaks out" from the trajectory.

Violation in the work of the main transmission differential.

Note:
It is mainly the jamming of satellites and z-for wear or violation of adjustments.

Repair (see chapter "Drive shafts and main transmission")
7 Characteristic metal "crunch" and ball beating when turning (full or front-wheel drive cars) Mud hit in Schlis (hinge of equal angular velocities) due to a broken anther Replace the boot and rinse the silver (see chapter "Drive shafts and the main transmission")
Increased wear of a scrub Replace the Sls (see Chapter "Drive Shafts and Main Transfer")

ATTENTION
Avoid the start of movement and high loads at the start when the wheels are fully twisted (front-wheel drive), as it can damage the shoes.

8 Whistle when you click on the clutch pedal No lubricant or exhaust clutch bearing wear Replace the release bearing (see chapter "Clutch")
9 Deep short-term knock when squeezing clutch pedals Wear Upnik Primary Gearbox Ipnik (Manual Transmission) Replace (see chapter "Transmission")
10 "Buzzing" sound from the gearbox of the main gear (mainly under load) Violation of the adjustment of the gap in the engagement of the main transfer Disassemble, verify the technical condition and adjust (see the chapter "Transmission")
Insufficient quantity or no transm of the scale oil in the main transmission crankcase

Add or pour the required volume of transm of the scale oil (see chapter "Drive shafts and the main transmission").

Note:
If there was no transmission oil, it is necessary to identify the cause of leakage and check the technical condition of the main transmission, with increased wear - replace the new one (see chapter "Drive shafts and the main transfer")

Slug clutch as a result of which:
. The car does not respond to an increase in the frequency of rotation of the engine.
. Inappropriate vehicle speed.
. Power shortage when moving upside down

Note:
In this case, the appearance of the characteristic smell of friction
material.

Inappropriate pedal free Adjust (see chapter "Coupling")
Clogging of the clutch hydraulic Eliminate a malfunction or replace the corresponding part of the part new (see chapter "Clutch")
Excessive wear of the clutch disc Replace (see chapter "Clutch")
Glazing of the clutch disc surface or oil entering the surface
Damage to the clutch or flywheel
Wear or damage to the clamping spring
11 Spontaneous shutdown transmission Wearing of the shift of gear or breakage of the springs of clamps in the conjugation Replace fork or retainer (see chapter "Transmission")
Increased clearance of the synchronizer clutch on the hub Replace the hub and clutch of the synchronizer (see chapter "Transmission")
12 Clip / vibration Fit oil on the surface of the clutch disc or cavity Check the clutch disc (see chapter "Clutch")
Fault clutch pressure disk
Diaphragm damage Replace the clutch basket (see Chapter "Clutch")
Damage or wear of clutch disc dams Replace clutch disc (see chapter "Clutch")
Weakening fastening to the engine
Noise in clutch Clutch pedal sleeves Replace the clutch pedal sleeves with new (see chapter "Grip")
Weakening of parts in the clutch basket Eliminate a malfunction (see chapter "Clutch")
Wear or pollution of the release bearing Replace the release bearing new (see chapter "Clutch")
Swimming Pulling Fork Or Tag Eliminate a malfunction (see chapter "Clutch")
Car chassis
13 Deep metal knock at the top of the amortized rack (shock absorber) when driving on road irregularities or obstacles

Ambacious rack support (upper shock absorber)

Note
Do not confuse with the suspension breaking at the road obstacle (see "Explanatory Dictionary").

Replace the absorption rack support and check the technical condition of the shock absorbing rack (see chapter "Chassis")
14 Overheating wheels and wheel hub Dissolio when installing or elevated wheel hub bearing wear Replace, adjust (see chapter "Suspension")
15 Increased wear of the ball hinge tip of the steering thrust Replace the tip of the steering thrust (see chapter "Steering")

. Take a wheel behind the front and rear parts and shake in a horizontal plane.
. If a knock appears, then the ball hinge is overly worn and it must be replaced
Knock out of car suspension Elevated wear of the ball support of the lower suspension lever Replace (see the chapter "Suspension")
To determine wear, it is necessary:
. Post the wheelchair, set under the bottom lever suspension by the subeau
. Take up the wheel in the upper and lower part and shake in the vertical plane
. If the knock does not disappear after pressing the brake pedal, then the ball support is excessively worn out and it must be replaced.
Wheel hub bearings Replace (see chapter - "suspension")
To determine wear is necessary
. Sit down the wheelchair, install under the lower suspension lever.
. Take a wheel in the upper and lower part and shake in the vertical plane.
. If a knock appears, ask for an assistant to press the brake pedal and repeat the wheel movement.
. If the knock disappeared after pressing the brake pedal, then the wheel hub bearing must be replaced
Wear racks of transverse stability stabilizer
Wear bushings of the cross-stability stabilizer (often manifests itself when the car turns! Replace (see chapter - "Suspension")
16

Vibrations on a steering wheel with an increase in speed

Note:
Vibrations are possible due to poor-quality road surface

Batting controlled wheels, as a result of Rosballansivation (with a subsequent increase in the speed of hearing blows in the suspension, car jerks are possible)

ATTENTION
Can lead to very serious damage to the chassis and car steering

Wheel balancing, if necessary, check the technical condition of the chassis as a whole. Check the angles of installation of controlled wheels

The elements of the fastening of the chassis and / or steering

ATTENTION
For fastening the elements of the chassis and steering, self-locking nuts and bolts or croppy nuts are used with the subsequent plinning, to be especially careful so that when installing the nuts, the nuts are applied properly.
. The bolts / nuts fastening the wheels released.

Tighten all elements of the chassis with the required tightening torque (see chapter - "suspension")
17 Noise when operating a hydraulic steering amplifier Finding air to the system Make sure the air does not fall through loose connections. Conduct the procedure for removing air from the system, for this:
* Install the car in the direction of the straight movement
* Open the hood and the power steering pump expansion tank
* Run the engine and turning the steering wheel from one extreme position to another, remove air from the system. The air is removed, if in the pump tank, when turning the steering wheel there are no air bubbles
Increased wear of the operating surfaces of the pump power steering system Replace (see Chapter "Steering")
Low Level Liquid Make sure that there are no leaks of liquid, then add to the required level (see the head "Steering")
Leakage of the working fluid due to the density of the compounds and / or leakage through the seals Eliminate leaks (see chapter "Steering")
18 Rocking the car when driving on uneven road surface Leakage of the working fluid from the shock absorber (s), as a result, loss of damper damper ability Replace (see the chapter "Suspension")
Car station from rectilinear movement Control wheel disruption

Adjust installation angles (see chapter "Suspension")

Note
It is possible uneven wear of the tires of the wheels.

Uneven wear of tires of wheels See below "Types of Tire Tread Warms"
Violations in the installation of the steering wheel Adjust (see chapter "Steering")
Sharp the brake pads on one side of the car

You can check, hung alternately every wheel and tested by hand. The wheel should rotate freely, without jamming.

Note
In this case, the appearance of smoke from the brake mechanism (burning of dust and friction material)

See chapter "Brake System"

Violation of the geometric parameters of the suspension elements (levers, swivel fist, thrust) Check the geometric parameters on a special stand. If necessary, replace defective parts (see the chapter "Suspension")
Algae of a straight line Violations in the work of passive security systems ABS, ESP (course stability system), ASR (anti-duct system) Read the fault codes using a special scanner if necessary to repair (see the chapter "Brake System")
Car jerk at braking Brake disc warping due to strong overheating Check the technical condition and, if necessary, replace (see the chapter "Brake System")
Non-uniform wear of brake discs
Brake shoe blocks Eliminate malfunction (see chapter "Brake System")
Violation in the work of the ABS system Read the fault codes using a special scanner. If necessary, repair (see chapter "Brake System")
. Dirt entering or the lunches of ice on wheels and / or wheel arches.
. Bolts / nuts fastening wheels
. Before traveling, inspection and clean the wheels and wheeled arches from the allest snow
. Tighten the mounting bolts with the required tightening torque
19 Loss of braking efficiency (an increased effort is required when pressed on the brake pedal) Damage or violation in the work of the brake vacuum amplifier Replace (see chapter "Brake System")

Excessive wear of friction pads brake pads

Note:
Also, braking can be accompanied by a metal creak.

Replace (see chapter "Brake System")
Percros brake pads (malfunction) Replace (see chapter "Brake System")

Violation of the tightness of one of the contours of the hydraulic brakes

Note:
At the same time, the brake pedal will fall at approximately half of his stroke

Find the place of depressurization and repair (see the chapter "Brake System")
Sample individual elements of the brake mechanism in the winter period of operation At low speed, press the brake pedal several times to warm up the brake mechanisms
20 Brake pedal failed, the car practically does not reduce speed

ATTENTION
This is a very dangerous situation, as a consequence may be a traffic accident.

Cause in the trusting of the brake system.

Note
In the emergency situation while driving, when this malfunction occurs, it is necessary to press the brake pedal alternately and, if necessary, use the parking brake.

Before each trip, it is necessary to check the technical status of the brake system (see above) to prematurely find and troubleshoot. Pump the brake system (see chapter "Brake System").
Draft brake fluid from the brake hydraulic Find and eliminate leakage place (see the chapter "Brake System").
Body
21 Foreign noise of body elements Weakening of fasteners Restalk with the required torque
Insufficient clearance between body elements . If possible, it is possible to dilute the components on the side of weakening and tightening their mounting with the required torque.
. Isolate components with suitable materials, such as polyurethane gaskets, foam pillows, felt ribbon or polyurethane tape

.. 11 12 13 ..

Geely Emgrand EC7. Operation Manual - Part 13

Control

Troubleshooting Luke

Problem

Remedy

Incorrect position

Damaged sealing

naya gasket

Replace the sealing gasket.

Unusual noise B.

guide

An extraneous subject in

rushing

Clean and lubricate the guide.

Luke does not work

Burnt fuse replace the fuse.

Weak contact switch

Motor malfunction

Fault block

Damaged driven

Luke leakage

Drainage tube is scored

Purge the drainage tube with an air gun.

Protection function

from pinching nonsense

works

It is necessary to reset

construction block management

Remove the hatch fuse and insert it in 5 seconds.

Control

Safety Measures Information

Lighting system

Front headlight

1. Overall fire

2. Far Light headlights

3. Middle Lightlight

4. Rotation pointer

Note

In cold or wet weather on the inner surface of the headlights

condensate can accumulate. The reason is the difference of temperatures

on the inner and outside.

The formation of condensate does not indicate the malfunction of the block headlights and

does not affect its service life.

Some time after the inclusion of headlights, condensate disappears.

With a significant number of condensate, contact your authorized

gEELY service center.

Control

Safety Measures Information

Rear combined lantern

1. Rotator sign

2. Reverse Lantern

3. Stop signal and overall lamp

1. Stop signal

2. Overall fire

3. Pointer turn

4. Rear fog lamp (left)

Reverse Lantern (Right)

Jili Emgrand appeared in our market recently just since 2012, but already won buyers with its appearance and technical characteristics, as well as excellent equipment already in the database. Immgrand is produced in the body of Hatch and Sedan. The car looks gorgeous, and the back is generally similar to Mercedes E E Class, if you remove the names, then you will not immediately and understand that you have a Chinese.

It seems to us that the Chinese went on the right path, began to copy the technologies that have proven themselves from the best side, for example Lifan Solana - Almost exact copy of Toyota Corolla in the body 120, especially earliest selling managed to glue to her Corlags and selling as a Corolla. Emgrand is also no exception, a car from Japanese technologies with European components.

Original parts are cheap, for example, air filter 200 rubles, oil-made 100 rubles, blocks of 700-900 rubles, and due to the fact that Emgrand Solyanka from European technologies, then the duplicates of the European is also sufficient.

The chain or belt is asked by the owner of the Emgrand .........

2 engine 1.5 and 1.8 liters are installed on Gili Emgrand, and comrades from Jili write that these are their own developments, but this is an exact copy of Toyotovsky 1ZZ, which Toyota is already released without a small 15 years, the sin such technologies does not take advantage, especially when they They themselves offer almost a task. Both engines with chain drive drive, when the chain is broken, everything can be bandaged, but there was no inclination of the chain, the chain is usually 150-180 thousand km, and its replacement is about 500 bucks, the original chain is worth 1600 rubles. Candles are better immediately replaced by DENSO K16PRU11, with these candles the machine works smoothly and without interruptions, the benefit of 150 rubles per candle.

As it does not sound strange, but there are no problems with motors with timely. There are, of course, cases of failure of sensors, but they are single.

Two boxes are mechanics and variator. To take or not take a variator transmission, to solve only you, but buy such a car only after diagnosis. If the variator was drunk and ignored, it would not serve hundreds of thousand km. Even there is a sad statistics on Toyota Fielder in a new body, even on such an eminent brand, the variator is already out of order by 150 thousand runs, in general there is nothing more reliable than a simple machine, but such an aggregate on the Emgrand does not put.

Of course, mechanics are easier and more reliable and replacing the clutch will rise to 100 thousand runs and the cost of replacement of 30 thousand rubles. Factory oil is better replaced immediately.

Suspension Emgrand: Front Simple McPherson, and the rear semi-dependent. The suspension is simple and how on all cars the first fails of the stabilizer rack, then the racks themselves, but they can be replaced with a kayabu, which goes 100 thousand km. Brakes - disk pads serve 30 thousand km.

Steering with power steering, replacing steering lugs by 60 thousand runs.

Jili Emgrand is successfully used in a taxi, as the car with a comfortable rear seat, and the legs do not rest in the front seat, reliability and inexpensive original parts, and what else is needed for everyday cars at Logan.

Jili Emgrand turned out to be a good car C class, with a large salon with bright appearance and reliability, and the road clearance of 160 mm is also an excellent plus, the cost of spare parts will also be pleasantly surprised by the owners of the brand. On Emgrand there is a full-fledged repair manual in Russian, therefore, with independent repair, there should be no questions

Lamps Jil Emgrand

  • Far Light H7.
  • Middle Light H1.
  • Front PY21W Turn Index
  • Front parking lamp W5W
  • Stop signal LED -
  • Rear combined lantern
  • Rear parking lamp LED
  • Rear PY21W Turn Index
  • P21W reverse lamp
  • Fog pala NZ
  • P21WLL Daytime Fire Lamp
  • Fog lantern P21W.
  • Additional STOP signal LED
  • W5W license plate lighting lamp
  • Right W5W Reading Lamp
  • Right W5W Reading Lamp
  • Door lamp C5W.
  • C5W glove box lamp
  • Lamp of the luggage compartment W5W

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