Engine faults and engine control systems Jil Emgrand (JL4G15-D). Geely Emgrand Second Hands, Malfunctions, Lamps Gili Emgrand Jil Emgrand EC7 does not begin the cause of the cause
UAZ Patriot, 2.7 liters, 2009 G.V.
Easy became on the move and acceleration. Especially for mannevism. Became like a good foreign car. I can not find out the car, pumped so that a single foreign car is inferior. Like ride.
Alexander
The first sensations of car owners after the service on UAZ Patriot.
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Good afternoon Vladislav. Today I received a parcel with the throat and immediately set the node. Do not know the car. Volga Weighing 1.8t with a place tears with slipping according to our Mountains where she used to go to 3-4 transmission now free on 5th and still goes. On the old node speed 90km. accelerated for 3000-3300 rub. Now 2000-2300UB. on overtaking goes fun to switch to reduced gear.. And at the same time, I love the gas pedal. As long as I am very pleased with the result.
I read a lot about the rose tuning and decided to try. My first sensations - the car has become easier to accelerate. Previously, acceleration was from 3000 now from 2000 about. Already there is pickup. I advise everyone, it really works! Although there were big doubts from me. And about the fact that many write that it is a scam, do not add! At first, try ... Yes, most importantly, the gas pedal is barely sting, and the machine cheerfully accelerates. Previously, after resetting gas, there was a feeling that there was someone in the tug, he slows down. ... After the gas reset to the transfer, the car continues to confidently move forward. With the subsequent pressure of the gas, the car has been accepted confidently without a jerk.
Vortex Tingo. 1.8 liters., 2011.
I did tuning a drosel. I go with him for 1.5 years. Effect is. No problems are trying to put up, there was no. The car starts great, both in summer and in -35 in winter. Consumption declined.
The throttle knot was finalized. From the service to the house really enjoyed the ride. No longer need to put pressure on the pedal. Just put my leg and car rides. On the nose boldly undermines. The deep stupid pit was disappeared at a set of speed from 70 to 100km / h. And the consumption has fallen while 0.5 liters. Thank you so much for the perfectly done work !!! Super!!!
After finalizing the car, even with Condela, is actually riding!
The above illustrations will simplify the definition of one or another malfunction. Noticing any deviations from the norm on your car (extraneous noises, knocks, leaks, signs of uneven wear, disorders in manageability, etc.) Localize the place of a fault site, compare it with a pattern and refer to the table by the corresponding link. If it is not possible to determine the exact source of foreign noise, then it is necessary to do this at least approximately. Then, using illustration and table to identify a specific malfunction.
Figure and the table below shows the most common sources of noise, but similar signs can occur in other places of the car.
If it is impossible to determine the location of the fault in the figure, then it is necessary to try to identify the reason for the main categories and items shown in the table.
Note:
In the figure, the following positions indicate:
13 - Ambacious front suspension racks
2 0 - Pedal Node
6, 10 - rear gear reducer
Position number in the picture | Sign of malfunction | Possible reason | Remedy |
Engine | |||
1 | Characteristic high metal knock from under the valve engine cover | Violation of gaps in valves | Adjust the clearance in the valves (see Chapter "Mechanical Engine") |
Broken (elevated wear) support (bear bearings) camshafts | Replace or repair the timing elements (see the chapter "Mechanical Engine") | ||
Violation in the work of hydrocompensators | |||
Slagging Xi / w Shipping Noise from under the front engine cover (front of the engine) | Reduced tension of the timing chain (gas distribution mechanism) | Tensioning the chain (see chapter "Mechanical part of the engine") | |
WITNESS OF STRIRS WITH DRAWING VALLS | Replace (see the chapter "Mechanical part of the engine") | ||
Increased wear of the timing chain | Replace (see the chapter "Mechanical part of the engine") | ||
Call metal knock out of the middle part of the engine | Stuffed pistons / piston finger due to increased wear | Replace (see the chapter "Mechanical part of the engine") | |
Deaf metal knock from the bottom of the engine | Increased crankshaft wear | Replace (see the chapter "Mechanical part of the engine") | |
Increased wear of the liners of the bearing bearings of the crankshaft | Replace (see the chapter "Mechanical part of the engine") | ||
Increased wear of liners of rod crankshaft necks | Replace (see the chapter "Mechanical part of the engine") | ||
Note: |
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Deaf, short knock from the bottom of the engine, when it starts (two strikes) | Wear of the thrust bearings (half-collenges) of the crankshaft | Replace (see the chapter "Mechanical part of the engine") | |
Knock (click) when moving the ignition key to the "Start" position | Clicks, while the key is in the "Start" position, arise due to the fault of the retaining winding | In an emergency, you can, using a screwdriver with an insulating handle, move the findings of the retaining starter. But, nevertheless, it is necessary to study the problem in more detail (see the head of the engine "Electrical Equipment") | |
Scripping, screech, whistle from the front of the engine | Wear or decreased belt tension / auxiliary equipment belts | ||
Summary of the drive belt of the auxiliary equipment when turning the steering wheel (in some cases until it stops) | Wearing or reducing the tension of the belt / belt drive of the auxiliary equipment (for cars with hydraulic steering amplifier) | Tension or replace (see chapter "Mechanical Engine") | |
Couples from the windscarette | Engine overheating due to violations in the cooling system ATTENTION | . Make a stop and give the engine to cool. Perhaps the reason consists in a very high ambient air temperature. . Check the fuses of the cooling system and the function of the fan (see the chapter "Action in Emergency Situations") |
|
Loss of engine power Note: | Insufficient heat dissipation as a result of clogging of cooling system of the cooling system with unauthorized objects (road trash, leaves) | Clear the radiator using a special brush | |
Cleaning the cooling system fan or electrical wiring | Check the technical condition and replace (see the chapter "Cooling System") | ||
Mechanical damage to the radiator | Replace (see the chapter "Cooling System") | ||
Cooling fluid leak through loose connections of nozzles or damage to the radiator, block of cylinders or block head | Detect leakage and eliminate a malfunction (see the chapter "Cooling System") | ||
Insufficient coolant level in the system | Add liquid to the required level | ||
Smoke from the subcarption Note: | After repairing the engine, engine oil falls on the block and head of the cylinder head, if it does not remove it, rub with a clean rag, then after switching on and as the engine warms up from under the hood, it will begin to go smoke - this is due to the burning of the oil. As a rule, there is no danger, but it is still better to drown out the motor and clean the block and the head of the block with a clean rag. | Ensure that after repairing the head and the cylinder block is cleaned of the drums of engine oil, if necessary, clean, using a rag and solvent | |
Cotton in the intake manifold | The offset of the ignition ahead in the direction of the earlier ATTENTION | ||
2 | Cotton in the exhaust pipe of the release system | Ignition advance angle displacement in the direction of later ATTENTION | Repair (see the chapter "Electrical Equipment") |
Transmission | |||
3 | Difficult inclusion or gear shift (for cars with manual gearbox) | The clutch "leads", that is, the clutch coupling completely does not turn off when the pedal is full. Note: | . Adjust the clutch pedal . Replace the clutch drive (see Chapter "Clutch") |
Malfunction of the gear shift drive cable | Replace the gear shift cable (see the chapter "Gearbox") | ||
Loose fit or wear blocking rings and synchronizer cones | Eliminate a malfunction or replace the part (see chapter "Transmission") | ||
Weakening springs synchronizers | Replace the synchronizer springs (see chapter "Gearbox") | ||
Oil inappropriate brand | Pour the oil of the required brand (see chapter "Gearbox") | ||
4 | Deaf, tickling short-term knock outgoing from the gearbox when switching (cars with manual transmission) Note: | Increased wear of the synchronizer (s) gearbox | |
5 | Deep knock when switching gear (mechanical and automatic transmission) coming out of the central tunnel. Note: | Increased wear of the crosses of the cardan shaft (typical for all-wheel drive and rear-wheel drive cars) | Replace (see Chapter "Drive Shafts and Home Transfer") |
Unbalance of the Cardan Vala. | Balancing (see chapter "Drive shafts and main transmission") | ||
6 | Metal "crunch" and knock when turning a car Note: | Violation in the work of the main transmission differential. Note: | Repair (see chapter "Drive shafts and main transmission") |
7 | Characteristic metal "crunch" and ball beating when turning (full or front-wheel drive cars) | Mud hit in Schlis (hinge of equal angular velocities) due to a broken anther | Replace the boot and rinse the silver (see chapter "Drive shafts and the main transmission") |
Increased wear of a scrub | Replace the Sls (see Chapter "Drive Shafts and Main Transfer") | ||
ATTENTION |
|||
8 | Whistle when you click on the clutch pedal | No lubricant or exhaust clutch bearing wear | Replace the release bearing (see chapter "Clutch") |
9 | Deep short-term knock when squeezing clutch pedals | Wear Upnik Primary Gearbox Ipnik (Manual Transmission) | Replace (see chapter "Transmission") |
10 | "Buzzing" sound from the gearbox of the main gear (mainly under load) | Violation of the adjustment of the gap in the engagement of the main transfer | Disassemble, verify the technical condition and adjust (see the chapter "Transmission") |
Insufficient quantity or no transm of the scale oil in the main transmission crankcase | Add or pour the required volume of transm of the scale oil (see chapter "Drive shafts and the main transmission"). Note: |
||
Slug clutch as a result of which: Note: | Inappropriate pedal free | Adjust (see chapter "Coupling") | |
Clogging of the clutch hydraulic | Eliminate a malfunction or replace the corresponding part of the part new (see chapter "Clutch") | ||
Excessive wear of the clutch disc | Replace (see chapter "Clutch") | ||
Glazing of the clutch disc surface or oil entering the surface | |||
Damage to the clutch or flywheel | |||
Wear or damage to the clamping spring | |||
11 | Spontaneous shutdown transmission | Wearing of the shift of gear or breakage of the springs of clamps in the conjugation | Replace fork or retainer (see chapter "Transmission") |
Increased clearance of the synchronizer clutch on the hub | Replace the hub and clutch of the synchronizer (see chapter "Transmission") | ||
12 | Clip / vibration | Fit oil on the surface of the clutch disc or cavity | Check the clutch disc (see chapter "Clutch") |
Fault clutch pressure disk | |||
Diaphragm damage | Replace the clutch basket (see Chapter "Clutch") | ||
Damage or wear of clutch disc dams | Replace clutch disc (see chapter "Clutch") | ||
Weakening fastening to the engine | |||
Noise in clutch | Clutch pedal sleeves | Replace the clutch pedal sleeves with new (see chapter "Grip") | |
Weakening of parts in the clutch basket | Eliminate a malfunction (see chapter "Clutch") | ||
Wear or pollution of the release bearing | Replace the release bearing new (see chapter "Clutch") | ||
Swimming Pulling Fork Or Tag | Eliminate a malfunction (see chapter "Clutch") | ||
Car chassis | |||
13 | Deep metal knock at the top of the amortized rack (shock absorber) when driving on road irregularities or obstacles | Ambacious rack support (upper shock absorber) Note | Replace the absorption rack support and check the technical condition of the shock absorbing rack (see chapter "Chassis") |
14 | Overheating wheels and wheel hub | Dissolio when installing or elevated wheel hub bearing wear | Replace, adjust (see chapter "Suspension") |
15 | Increased wear of the ball hinge tip of the steering thrust | Replace the tip of the steering thrust (see chapter "Steering") . Take a wheel behind the front and rear parts and shake in a horizontal plane. . If a knock appears, then the ball hinge is overly worn and it must be replaced |
|
Knock out of car suspension | Elevated wear of the ball support of the lower suspension lever | Replace (see the chapter "Suspension") To determine wear, it is necessary: . Post the wheelchair, set under the bottom lever suspension by the subeau . Take up the wheel in the upper and lower part and shake in the vertical plane . If the knock does not disappear after pressing the brake pedal, then the ball support is excessively worn out and it must be replaced. |
|
Wheel hub bearings | Replace (see chapter - "suspension") To determine wear is necessary . Sit down the wheelchair, install under the lower suspension lever. . Take a wheel in the upper and lower part and shake in the vertical plane. . If a knock appears, ask for an assistant to press the brake pedal and repeat the wheel movement. . If the knock disappeared after pressing the brake pedal, then the wheel hub bearing must be replaced |
||
Wear racks of transverse stability stabilizer | |||
Wear bushings of the cross-stability stabilizer (often manifests itself when the car turns! | Replace (see chapter - "Suspension") | ||
16 | Vibrations on a steering wheel with an increase in speed Note: | Batting controlled wheels, as a result of Rosballansivation (with a subsequent increase in the speed of hearing blows in the suspension, car jerks are possible) ATTENTION | Wheel balancing, if necessary, check the technical condition of the chassis as a whole. Check the angles of installation of controlled wheels |
The elements of the fastening of the chassis and / or steering ATTENTION | Tighten all elements of the chassis with the required tightening torque (see chapter - "suspension") | ||
17 | Noise when operating a hydraulic steering amplifier | Finding air to the system | Make sure the air does not fall through loose connections. Conduct the procedure for removing air from the system, for this: * Install the car in the direction of the straight movement * Open the hood and the power steering pump expansion tank * Run the engine and turning the steering wheel from one extreme position to another, remove air from the system. The air is removed, if in the pump tank, when turning the steering wheel there are no air bubbles |
Increased wear of the operating surfaces of the pump power steering system | Replace (see Chapter "Steering") | ||
Low Level Liquid | Make sure that there are no leaks of liquid, then add to the required level (see the head "Steering") | ||
Leakage of the working fluid due to the density of the compounds and / or leakage through the seals | Eliminate leaks (see chapter "Steering") | ||
18 | Rocking the car when driving on uneven road surface | Leakage of the working fluid from the shock absorber (s), as a result, loss of damper damper ability | Replace (see the chapter "Suspension") |
Car station from rectilinear movement | Control wheel disruption | Adjust installation angles (see chapter "Suspension") Note |
|
Uneven wear of tires of wheels | See below "Types of Tire Tread Warms" | ||
Violations in the installation of the steering wheel | Adjust (see chapter "Steering") | ||
Sharp the brake pads on one side of the car | You can check, hung alternately every wheel and tested by hand. The wheel should rotate freely, without jamming. Note See chapter "Brake System" |
||
Violation of the geometric parameters of the suspension elements (levers, swivel fist, thrust) | Check the geometric parameters on a special stand. If necessary, replace defective parts (see the chapter "Suspension") | ||
Algae of a straight line | Violations in the work of passive security systems ABS, ESP (course stability system), ASR (anti-duct system) | Read the fault codes using a special scanner if necessary to repair (see the chapter "Brake System") | |
Car jerk at braking | Brake disc warping due to strong overheating | Check the technical condition and, if necessary, replace (see the chapter "Brake System") | |
Non-uniform wear of brake discs | |||
Brake shoe blocks | Eliminate malfunction (see chapter "Brake System") | ||
Violation in the work of the ABS system | Read the fault codes using a special scanner. If necessary, repair (see chapter "Brake System") | ||
. Dirt entering or the lunches of ice on wheels and / or wheel arches. . Bolts / nuts fastening wheels | . Before traveling, inspection and clean the wheels and wheeled arches from the allest snow . Tighten the mounting bolts with the required tightening torque |
||
19 | Loss of braking efficiency (an increased effort is required when pressed on the brake pedal) | Damage or violation in the work of the brake vacuum amplifier | Replace (see chapter "Brake System") |
Excessive wear of friction pads brake pads Note: | Replace (see chapter "Brake System") | ||
Percros brake pads (malfunction) | Replace (see chapter "Brake System") | ||
Violation of the tightness of one of the contours of the hydraulic brakes Note: | Find the place of depressurization and repair (see the chapter "Brake System") | ||
Sample individual elements of the brake mechanism in the winter period of operation | At low speed, press the brake pedal several times to warm up the brake mechanisms | ||
20 | Brake pedal failed, the car practically does not reduce speed | ATTENTION Cause in the trusting of the brake system. Note | Before each trip, it is necessary to check the technical status of the brake system (see above) to prematurely find and troubleshoot. Pump the brake system (see chapter "Brake System"). |
Draft brake fluid from the brake hydraulic | Find and eliminate leakage place (see the chapter "Brake System"). | ||
Body | |||
21 | Foreign noise of body elements | Weakening of fasteners | Restalk with the required torque |
Insufficient clearance between body elements | . If possible, it is possible to dilute the components on the side of weakening and tightening their mounting with the required torque. . Isolate components with suitable materials, such as polyurethane gaskets, foam pillows, felt ribbon or polyurethane tape |
.. 11 12 13 ..
Geely Emgrand EC7. Operation Manual - Part 13
Control
Troubleshooting Luke
Problem
Remedy
Incorrect position
Damaged sealing
naya gasket
Replace the sealing gasket.
Unusual noise B.
guide
An extraneous subject in
rushing
Clean and lubricate the guide.
Luke does not work
Burnt fuse replace the fuse.
Weak contact switch
Motor malfunction
Fault block
Damaged driven
Luke leakage
Drainage tube is scored
Purge the drainage tube with an air gun.
Protection function
from pinching nonsense
works
It is necessary to reset
construction block management
Remove the hatch fuse and insert it in 5 seconds.
Control
Safety Measures Information
Lighting system
Front headlight
1. Overall fire
2. Far Light headlights
3. Middle Lightlight
4. Rotation pointer
Note
In cold or wet weather on the inner surface of the headlights
condensate can accumulate. The reason is the difference of temperatures
on the inner and outside.
The formation of condensate does not indicate the malfunction of the block headlights and
does not affect its service life.
Some time after the inclusion of headlights, condensate disappears.
With a significant number of condensate, contact your authorized
gEELY service center.
Control
Safety Measures Information
Rear combined lantern
1. Rotator sign
2. Reverse Lantern
3. Stop signal and overall lamp
1. Stop signal
2. Overall fire
3. Pointer turn
4. Rear fog lamp (left)
Reverse Lantern (Right)
Jili Emgrand appeared in our market recently just since 2012, but already won buyers with its appearance and technical characteristics, as well as excellent equipment already in the database. Immgrand is produced in the body of Hatch and Sedan. The car looks gorgeous, and the back is generally similar to Mercedes E E Class, if you remove the names, then you will not immediately and understand that you have a Chinese.
It seems to us that the Chinese went on the right path, began to copy the technologies that have proven themselves from the best side, for example Lifan Solana - Almost exact copy of Toyota Corolla in the body 120, especially earliest selling managed to glue to her Corlags and selling as a Corolla. Emgrand is also no exception, a car from Japanese technologies with European components.
Original parts are cheap, for example, air filter 200 rubles, oil-made 100 rubles, blocks of 700-900 rubles, and due to the fact that Emgrand Solyanka from European technologies, then the duplicates of the European is also sufficient.
The chain or belt is asked by the owner of the Emgrand .........
2 engine 1.5 and 1.8 liters are installed on Gili Emgrand, and comrades from Jili write that these are their own developments, but this is an exact copy of Toyotovsky 1ZZ, which Toyota is already released without a small 15 years, the sin such technologies does not take advantage, especially when they They themselves offer almost a task. Both engines with chain drive drive, when the chain is broken, everything can be bandaged, but there was no inclination of the chain, the chain is usually 150-180 thousand km, and its replacement is about 500 bucks, the original chain is worth 1600 rubles. Candles are better immediately replaced by DENSO K16PRU11, with these candles the machine works smoothly and without interruptions, the benefit of 150 rubles per candle.
As it does not sound strange, but there are no problems with motors with timely. There are, of course, cases of failure of sensors, but they are single.
Two boxes are mechanics and variator. To take or not take a variator transmission, to solve only you, but buy such a car only after diagnosis. If the variator was drunk and ignored, it would not serve hundreds of thousand km. Even there is a sad statistics on Toyota Fielder in a new body, even on such an eminent brand, the variator is already out of order by 150 thousand runs, in general there is nothing more reliable than a simple machine, but such an aggregate on the Emgrand does not put.
Of course, mechanics are easier and more reliable and replacing the clutch will rise to 100 thousand runs and the cost of replacement of 30 thousand rubles. Factory oil is better replaced immediately.
Suspension Emgrand: Front Simple McPherson, and the rear semi-dependent. The suspension is simple and how on all cars the first fails of the stabilizer rack, then the racks themselves, but they can be replaced with a kayabu, which goes 100 thousand km. Brakes - disk pads serve 30 thousand km.
Steering with power steering, replacing steering lugs by 60 thousand runs.
Jili Emgrand is successfully used in a taxi, as the car with a comfortable rear seat, and the legs do not rest in the front seat, reliability and inexpensive original parts, and what else is needed for everyday cars at Logan.
Jili Emgrand turned out to be a good car C class, with a large salon with bright appearance and reliability, and the road clearance of 160 mm is also an excellent plus, the cost of spare parts will also be pleasantly surprised by the owners of the brand. On Emgrand there is a full-fledged repair manual in Russian, therefore, with independent repair, there should be no questions
Lamps Jil Emgrand
- Far Light H7.
- Middle Light H1.
- Front PY21W Turn Index
- Front parking lamp W5W
- Stop signal LED -
- Rear combined lantern
- Rear parking lamp LED
- Rear PY21W Turn Index
- P21W reverse lamp
- Fog pala NZ
- P21WLL Daytime Fire Lamp
- Fog lantern P21W.
- Additional STOP signal LED
- W5W license plate lighting lamp
- Right W5W Reading Lamp
- Right W5W Reading Lamp
- Door lamp C5W.
- C5W glove box lamp
- Lamp of the luggage compartment W5W