Vaz 2121 carburetor starts. Niva does not start: what to do? Checking the carburetor engine power system

Many owners of the Niva are familiar to this situation: when turning the ignition key, the engine does not start, or even at all silence or some incomprehensible clicks are heard. About what to do and how to eliminate the fault that has arisen and will tell below. First I will describe malfunctions, and then ways to eliminate them.

The crankshaft of the Niva is not turning the starter.

There may be several reasons:

1. Through the fuse.
2. Bad contact between battery terminals.
3. Full battery discharge.
4. The failure of the retractor starter relay.
5. The failure of the intermediate relay swing the starter circuit.

First of all, you should pay attention to the dashboard. When you turn on the ignition or the main electrical installation in the engine, the lamps should light up on the dashboard or appear on the onboard computer, if we are talking about Chevrolet.

If this does not happen, the reason implies search in fuse block And in the contacts of the battery. During operation, oxides that increase resistance can be formed on these contacts. A loose connection of contacts can lead to sparking and burning.

If distorted fuses are not found, check reliability of contacts "+" Battery with a central wire and "-" with the "mass" of the car.

To eliminate a malfunction, be sure to replace the fuses and clean the contacts. It will not be suitable for even the cheapest tester to quickly check the availability of voltage in the electrical circuits of the car.

Clicks when trying to start the engine

If all contacts and the fuses of the Niva are normal, the ignition key to the "Start" position should be given and listen to whether there is a relay click. If clicks are clearly listening, the problem may be in the voltage supply relay to the starter, in the retracting relay or in the starting chain of the starter.

In the "peasant" car services, the serviceability of the retractor relay is usually checked by closing its contacts with a large screwdriver until the starter starts to rotate. For security purposes to do this in no case.

If the case B. intermediate relay, then on the field it is quite easy to replace. It is enough to insert a new block relay into the contact block, observing the sequence and polarity of the connection.

To check control of the retractor relayThe starter will have to remove. After that, holding the starter, you should connect it to the battery and submit voltage to the contact of the retractor relay.If a click is clearly heard, then the retractor relay is properly.

Perhaps the cause of the malfunction are oxidized and turning Contact Pins Starter. To check them, you should disassemble the retractor relay and clean the contact group. Sometimes the retractor relay is intimidated and is subject to replacement with the contact group.

If the retractor relay works, but the starter rotor does not rotate, it is necessary to check the condition of its brushes that may be worn out so much that they lost contact with the winding. In this case, the starter repair is by "low blood".

If the rotor swapped or overwhelms its winding, the starter is more expedient to replace everything assembly.

The starter rotor turns, but does not rotate the engine crankshaft

In some cases, the starter turns on, but instead of launching the engine, the whistle is heard or crushing. Possible causes of malfunction in this case are the failure of the overtaking coupling mechanism ("Bendix") or the jams of the rod of the retractor relay.

In the first case, it is necessary to replace or repair the overtaking coupling, and in the second, it is possible to clean the rod of the retractor relay and lubricate it with a grease recommended by the manufacturer. For this, any lubricant type "Litol" is suitable.

The engine starts, but soon stalls

The most common cause of such a behavior of the Niva engine is the presence of any obstacle (air stop, a scored filter or a favorable fuel pump) on the fuel path, or its complete absence. Look at the fuel level sensor. Perhaps you simply forgot to fix your SUV, or the fuel gone out of the tank not by your will (leakage or merchant attackers).

In this case, be sure to check the integrity of the surface of the tank, all hoses and the shut-off tapered neck.

To check control of the fuel pump On gasoline carburetor engines, it is enough to remove the hose from the inlet pipe of the carburetor and omit it into a pre-prepared container.

After that, for 15-20 seconds it is necessary to turn the crankshaft using the engine with the starter, or pump the fuel manually. At the same time, a pulsating fuel trick should appear from the hose.If this does not happen, it is necessary to replace the fuel filter, and also to repair or replace the fuel pump.

In hot weather during a long standing of the car on the Sun, another trouble may happen: steam plug in a gas station. To remove it, you should take advantage of the usual pump for tires, putting it hose to the fuel fitting, going to the gas tank and swing a pump several times. As a rule, this happens quite enough to start the Niva engine.

In Chevrolet, Niva with electronic fuel injection to determine the help of the fuel pump it is necessary to turn on the ignition and listen. With a good electronosos, a quiet buzz always hears. If, when the ignition is turned on, nothing happens, and when the gasoline hose is removed, it is not under pressure, it is necessary to check the electric chain of the fuel pump, replacing the details failed.

Another characteristic fault at which the engine stalls is divided by the bracket of the crankshaft position sensor (DPKV). In this case, it is useful to check its fastening, as well as the state of the wires and connectors.

The starter turns the engine crankshaft, but the engine does not start

The widest range of Niva faults, sometimes combined (immediately several faults that prevent the start and operation of the engine) is significantly more common. When describing such cases, we do not take into account engines with a faulty or non-regulated gas distribution system, an unregulated ignition system and fuel supply.

In frosty weather, the engine may not start because of the insufficient charge of the battery. In this case, it is more expedient to remove it from the car, bring to the warm room, lean, wipe dry from condensate and charge to the maximum voltage value.

If you need to start the engine urgently, you should unsubscribe the candles, clean them from the source or condensate, and then screw in place and repeat the engine start.

In some cases, you can use emergency method. Boil the water, remove the plastic casing and shed a boiling water intake manifold. After that, repeat the start attempt.

In no case it is impossible to start a cold engine Niva "From Tolkach" or from a tug. There is a risk of serious damage.

Faulty ignition system faulty

Another major obstacle to the launch of the VAZ 2121 gasoline engine is the ignition system. Malfunctions in the slope of the diesel engine can also make it difficult to significantly, and in cold weather, it is not possible to launch it.

If the gasoline engine does not start, first of all, it is necessary to check the presence of high voltage on the central wire, or on the ignition candle with a separate ignition system without a distributor.

If the car has a contact (battery) ignition system, check the gap between the contacts, the fist state, as well as the condenser. If the gap between the contacts does not correspond to the required or condenser closed on the "mass" - the reason was found!

In other cases, it is necessary to check the wires, the distributor cover (traver), the ignition candle insulators for the presence of high voltage leaks. If there are black carbon trails and cracks on the surface of these parts, they must be replaced.

Similarly, contactlessly checked ignition system Niva. Special attention should be paid to the ignition candles. On the surface of their electrodes there should be no traces of nagar, soot, oily sediments. It is allowed only for the presence of a gray or brownish-red flyer, which appears as a result of the combustion of various additives in gasoline.

It should also be paid to the gaps between the central and side electrode. Usually, the clearance should not exceed 0.7 - 0.8 mm. Other details, for example, quenching resistors and silicone wires should not have resistance above 15 - 20 com. When identifying reasons, also pay attention to the state of all contacts, the presence of moisture and condensate.

The main difficulty when launching a diesel engine with a well-good fuel supply system - defective incandescent candles. To check them, it is enough to include the supply of voltage on them within 10-15 seconds, after which try to run diesel. The candles of incandescent with the burned spiral is quite difficult to distinguish between serviceable, so they must be determined by their electrical resistance. If the candle resistance is too low (1 - 5 ohms), or tends to infinity (several mega), such a candle must be replaced.

No fuel supply

Often the engine does not start when faulty or incorrectly adjusted fuel supply system. Attempts to launch such an engine are usually accompanied by cotton, shots in the muffler, the appearance of black smoking smoke and a strong smell of gasoline from the exhaust pipe. A malfunction in the carburetor engine is usually determined visually.

It is enough to shine a flashlight to the primary and secondary chamber. If there are traces of gasoline on the walls, and the fuel is not sprayed from the sprayer of the accelerator pump, and flows out with a thin jet, it is necessary to express and eliminate the malfunction. To accurately determine the malfunction in the injection engine - it is necessary for special equipment connected to the diagnostic connector of the car, capable of reading error and fault codes.

To determine the availability of nozzles, you should disconnect them from the ramp, after which you ask the helper to scroll the engine starter. If at the same time gasoline flows out of the nozzle nozzle with a thick jet, or does not flow at all, such a nozzle should be rinsed in an ultrasonic bath or replace.

To avoid different surprises on the way, it is always recommended to check all the engine systems before departure, eliminating small malfunctions. For example, the relaxation of contact, the presence of friction of wires and hoses about various protrusions, oil drips and other liquids, etc.

Your technical equipment should be impeccable - after all, the time you have, there are the same money that, we hope you also have. Do not lose any other. If there is a disappearance of a tie or a library, a trouser who has lost the iron can cause a breakdown of a business meeting, then talking about a car that does not want to start an hour before the appointed negotiations.

Early in the morning, the freshly brightened and full of great plans (a child - to school, a wife - in a hairdresser, and he himself - to joke a labor penny), you jump into the car, "key to start" and ... what a damn ... still time. More ... Nervous manipulations with the key and pedals do not bring success. The day is spoiled from the very beginning. Plans and mood - a cat under the tail.

Calm down. It is not necessary to rush under the English costume under the hood and, sinking the tie oil mud, try to diagnose. In 5 minutes, most likely, do not cure. Take another car, and leave the treatment of a friend to the evening. And better instruct his doctors with a good reputation, especially if you have a dear car, and you are not special. So it will be cheaper. Well, if your friend is well acquainted and you consider yourself a healer - Well, try yourself, if not too lazy to get dirty or another output.

To the formulation of the diagnosis we must start quietly

Examine mentally symptoms. First - does the starter twist? And if so, how much is cheerful? You already know the answer - recall what happened at the first attempts to start the car. If you do not remember - try again.

If the starter does not twist at all and does not even click the traction relay when the ignition is turned on, then it is either faulty (you can close the hood and follow the advice above: "Take another machine .."), or trouble with the battery - turned off or sat down. Only in rare models, the starter power supply chain can be protected by a fuse - the amper of the AMPE is 300 - it is easy to find it, especially if you know where it is located in advance. If the battery is to blame, then all electrical equipment does not work. The simplest and easiest case - flew or contaminated one of the terminals, but the battery is in order. Tighten the fastenings of the terminals on it and at the starter (if any). If it turns out that the battery completely sat down (they forgot to turn off the headlights on the night), you can still leave. But with an extreme help. Here, as they say, options are possible. You can try to start with a shock, from a slide or from a tug. Do not try to bypass underwater stones: a car with an automatic box or electronic fuel injection (if there is an electric fuel pump) with these ways it will not be possible to start. We'll have to bite the neighbor. True, some machines may damage the computer (read the instructions for the machine). If the starter is twist, but sluggish (it happens in summer, in winter it is a subject of a separate conversation), most likely the battery is almost completely discharged. It will be visible on the weak light of the headlight or a sick signal. In this case, the above assistance options come into effect.

If the starter turns cheerfully, and the engine does not respond to attempts to start it, boldly exclude from further reflections all connected with the battery. Patya on the ignition system or fuel supply, you will not be mistaken. When making a diagnosis and treatment of each of them, a systematic approach is required. Start better from ignition - there are more often malfunctions. Especially in crude weather.

From the spark will marry ...

So, you need to look for a spark. Your machine can be equipped with a classic (simplest) ignition contact system, a rather complicated electronic contactless or some combined option. In any case, the system consists of three parts. Part One is low-voltage (interrupter contacts in a classic system or a special sensor in the electronic, plus a box with an electronic stuffing forming a spark). Part Two is an increase in the transformer, referred to in the world of the ignition coil. Part Three - high-voltage (mechanical or electronic distributor and wires, for which the high voltage current is summed up to the candles). And naturally, the candles themselves. The check of all this farm must be carried out in stages and it is better to start from the end.

The first stage. High voltage part of the system. Check if there is a spark on the central wire - this is the one that connects the coil with the distributor. The tip of the wire must be removed from the distributor cover, closer to any part that has a good contact with the mass of the car (it is painted or not, it does not matter), and the gap of 5-7 mm remains between the tip and the selected part.

If the ignition of your machine is electronic, it is necessary to mount the wire especially reliably - if it falls on the ground, the electronics will instantly order for a long time. For the same reason, it is impossible to chirp the wire on the body. Do not advise him by hand either, not even with your own - it will hit the current.

Stage second. Turn the engine starter. At the same time, see what happens on the tip of the wire. Two options are possible. A more favorable is a spark. Powerful, accompanied by loud-clicking. This significantly narrows the field of further searches.

First of all, you need to remove the distributor cover. Under it can be raw and dirty. According to such a "conductor," the spark is willingly slipping anywhere, only not there, where it is necessary. Wash out, clean and dry. At the same time, it is harmful to clean the contacts of the distributor, for example, a shallow eye. Inspect the so-called "runner". If you find a dark trail of the electrical breakdown on it or on the distributor cover, the part will have to change.

The most respectful way to check the wires from the distributor to the candles. Wires and their tips should be dry and clean. If with them, in your opinion, everything is in order, you can put the lid in place, restore the connections and try to start the engine. If the fault was burned under the lid - the engine will start or, in the worst case, at least start sneezing. The symptom is also favorable - you are on the right track. True, you will have to turn, clean and dry the candles - in trying to start the engine you poured them with gasoline. If the engine does not even sneeze, the candles still have to turn, clean and check. Simply, if there is a spare kit.

If you have already reached the step of turning the candles, it is possible to be quite effective (and effectively) to check the entire ignition system as a whole. Connecting the high-voltage wires to the twin candles, collect candles in a bundle, like carrots, and wrap directly along their threaded part with a naked soft wire. Make sure the wire has contact with each candle, but does not concern the central electrodes. Fluent wire end connect with mass. By placing a beam of candles in a convenient place to observe the location, screw the engine starter. At the same time, there should be funny sparks between the electrodes of candles in turn (in accordance with the order of cylinders). If so, then the whole ignition system is in order. The sound of the engine will be very unusual - do not be scared, because it spins with twisted candles. Do not twist for a long time. Worse, if at the second stage of checking there is another option: the sparks between the central wire and the "case" is not. So it's not in high-voltage chains. Further search will be more complicated, appreciate your time and desire. If both are available, proceed to the third stage. Check if the voltage is supplied to the ignition coil. It is easy to make a tester, and if it is not, you can use a rotor light bulb. True, you will need a pair of wires to connect it to the coil. In the classic ignition system, connect the light bulb between the mass and the input of the primary winding.

In the third stage, as usual, two options are also possible: the voltage to the coil is either served or not. If it is served, the coil is to blame - a breakdown or short circuit, which, however, it happens extremely rarely. The coil will have to change. It is more likely to be bad contact in the mounting of the wires to the coil. Or the same wet dirt, according to which the spark bucks not known where. Sometimes the coil is cleaned to the brilliance, but under it the invisible very narrow strip of dirt is preserved - a good conductor.

If, at the third stage, you were convinced that the coil voltage is not served - the electronics or contacts and contacts and unreliable connections in the low-voltage part of the ignition system are to blame. With electronics (switch and, less often, sensor in the distributor housing) you can not cope - for their diagnostics you need special equipment. It is possible for you to pull the sensor connector on the dispenser housing - suddenly helps. If you have a car with a classic ignition contact system, you can find further.

Remove the cover from the distributor and inspect the contacts of the interrupter - they can oxidize, especially if the car stood for some time without movement. Contacts need to be carefully cleaned with a thin eyelet or special nadfyl.

Hold the cleaned contacts so that they are closed, they swallowed. The voltage on them is only 12 volts, so it is possible to pull without knowlessly. If the cleaning did not help and the coil voltage is still not fed, we once again advise you to finish the attempts to resuscitate the car, since the difficulty will begin.

If the voltage appeared (when moving the contacts, the lamp flashes), restore all the developed and disassembled, start the car and, maybe still will have time to do. If it does not start, but at least sneezes - turn out the candles and ...

Do not press the floor - it will not help

It may turn out that the entire ignition system was checked, everything is in order, and the engine, even though you are crazy, does not start. Therefore, problems with another of the previously mentioned systems - power system, i.e., fuel supply to the engine.

If you have a car with an injection (injector feeding system) of fuel - do not touch it (to the system). You can only come to the conclusion that it was broken by it: there is a spark that fuel is suitable - it means she is rim. Treatment only in the hospital. At home and kustareys, it is useless to repair it and even harmful.

In the usual carburetor engine, the fuel system is simpler - tank, fuel pump, a set of pipelines and a carburetor. Here you can smooth yourself. First of all, you need to make sure that gasoline enters the carburetor. Disconnect the hose from the carburetor and click on the manual fuel swap lever. If a rather powerful jet of gasoline scored - everything is fine, it's time to go to the carburetor. It happens that gasoline is applied to the carburetor properly, but for some reason it does not come. If there is time and desire, remove the air filter, then ask someone to sharply click on the accelerator pedal. Or you can dramatically pull the throttle drive cable. At the same time, look at the carburetor from above (the air damper is open, otherwise you will not see anything): If the gasoline strika does not appear in the first diffuser - it means that there is no it in the float chamber. There is no it there because the needle of the valve (it happens very often) is completely clogged with a fuel filter in the carburetor - it is located in front of the float chamber. Or zepers clouded. The filter is purified by purging, however, in the absence of the necessary skills, it is better not to bind to the carburetious insides at all, to deal with the healing of the needle valve, clogging of loopholes and other subtleties - let it make specialists.

If the trickle is in the diffuser, pay attention to the launching device of the carburetor - it is quite often fail. On foreign cars starting about the 70s, automatic air damper control is applied. The device without your participation, depending on the engine temperature, closes or opens the flap as far as it is necessary, enriching the mixture when the engine starts. If this automation works, you can try manual manipulations with air damper, but there are a lot of options and there are no universal councils. Before starting manipulations, connect and secure the previously disconnected fuel hose. Air filter can not be installed yet. If it starts, let the engine warm up and with God (after returning the air filter to the place) .. if when checking the fuel supply by a fuel pump, it turns out that gasoline from the hose does not go or the trickle is very fluid, the reason should be sought in the closed pipelines, the fuel filter or fuel filter The fuel tube itself - you can easily demonstrate your masterness, pumping the benzins of the tire pump in the direction, inverse the movement of gasoline, i.e. from the carburetor to Baku. In the tank should be heard the ardor, bullous sounds.

With a fine fuel filter, everything is simple. Although almost all modern models, it is made in a transparent building, the degree of contamination is impossible to visually determine. The dirty filter will allow you to start the engine, but will not allow you to go normally. If it is completely clogged - the engine does not start. The most efficient check: Remove the filter and, if there is no new, temporarily replace it with a suitable tube, for example, the ballpoint housings are better transparent - it can be seen how gasoline flows. Do not attempt to clean the filter - a walled (or missed) case does not understand.

If you came to the conclusion that your car does not work the fuel pump, and there is no spare on hand - "Take another car ...".

Rare, but the most unpleasant diagnosis we left at last. If the starter works fine, you have already spent a bunch of time and made sure that ignition and food are in perfect order, and the car, however, does not start - it is worth considering the camshaft drive belt. However, decide for yourself, this check can be carried out at the beginning, especially if the engine has already passed more than 60 thousand. The complexity is that we will have to remove or at least partially bend the top of the closing belt of plastic casing. It is possible that the belt was cut off the teeth - in the belts, like people, teeth are lost from old age. In this case, the camshaft does not rotate and the engine will not work. It is clear that a toothless belt requires replacement (those who have a car with a chain drive camshaft, this trouble is not threatened). The belt replacement procedure is not complicated, but troublesome. Carried out in the hospital. Well, if everything limits the replacement of only the belt, and not bent valves or the entire block of the block - it also happens.

About the causes of atherosclerosis

Let's try to explain why the car's blood system is sometimes amazed by "atherosclerosis". Gasoline - blood car. And blood should be clean and run through clean vessels. And in the fact that in vessels over a permissible measure, "cholesterol" is accumulated, as a rule, we are to blame. Do you often use Cannomen for gasoline topping? If so, the chances of cloging the benzipers and filters are rising, especially if your funnel without a mesh. In the canister usually accumulate trash, rust, sand, and if the canister is painted inside, then paint particles. It is clear that the smaller the amount of intermediate packaging is used on the path of gasoline from the column in the tank, the better. Whatever enough, even on the most saddeless gas station of dirt in tanks in a specific rate than in the "home" cancut. Beach of our benzokolonok is not so much dirt as water. But here we are powerless. On our memory, only one rogue has grown on the dilution of gasoline, and it is not water, but with donkey urine, and not in life, but in the movies (see "Gentlemen of Good luck"). So you have to put up. However, to properly do not add water to domestic diluted gasoline, try to always keep the tank full. In an incomplete tank, condensate accumulates, especially in the offseason, when sharp temperature differences occur.

Smaller fucking

It is worth saying a few words about the battery. Since on most modern cars, it is maintenance free, it makes no sense to give here instructions for use. We will give only a few additional advice, how long to keep the battery viable. Do not get carried away with your machine with additional energy consumers. The fact that in the energy balance of the machine is provided for a defined stock that allows you to connect to two-three "thugs", does not mean that you can hang six clicksons for the car and ten foglights - have a sense of measure. In addition, if you connect the unforeseen Tsatski yourself, the likelihood of insulation damage is great. And in general, as practice shows, any, even the most qualified operational intervention in the wiring of the car sooner or later makes itself felt. Trouble.

If your battery breathes to incense, try not to kick the engine during cutting stops in the city. Nothing raises the battery as a frequent use of the starter.

And the last (this applies not only to the battery, but also the entire electrical equipment in general). Remember: all terminals, contacts, wire tips should be dry and clean and well to lay down to "destinations". Dirty, grilled insulation sooner or later breaks through, and the burning and oxidation of any contact surface can serve as the only (and sufficient) cause of the ignition system failure. Or fire.

This can be stopped. The meticulous car enthusiasts undoubtedly noticed at some superficialness of our tips. We admit, we intentionally do not want to go deep into the debrist. In order not to provoke you to self-medication - it does not lead to good. Understanding the nature of pain at the bottom of the belly on the right does not mean that you yourself must delete your appendix. But you need to describe the doctor's doctor's symptoms for sure. Very helps treatment.

Yes: see paragraph 5

4. Fault in the ignition lock or in the wiring from the lock to the coil. In order to get to the nearest car service, you can apply emergency food into the ignition system. To do this, connect the additional wire terminal "+ b" ignition coil and terminal "+" battery. Wires securely secure. Keep in mind that now to drown out the engine, you will need to disconnect the additional wire from the "+" battery.

A warning

If, when connected to the terminal "+" battery, strong sparking will be observed, from this method will have to refuse - apparently, closes the "on the mass" of the wiring.

5. Remove the central wire from the ignition distributor cover. Insert the spare candle in the tip and press it with a metal part to the mass of the car. Turn the starter crankshaft Engine. Be sure to use a thick rubber glove or passage with insulated handles.

Warnings

Never check the ignition system on the "spark" between the tip of the wire and the "mass", it may lead to serious damage to the switch.

Do not remove the terminals from the battery and the switch connector when the engine is running.

Is there a spark between the candle electrodes?

Yes: see paragraph 7

6. The switch is possible, the hall sensor in the distributor or ignition coil.

7. Remove the distributor cover, unscrewing two screws. Carefully inspect the distributor cover outside and inside for damage (cracks, chips, the destruction of coal contact inside the lid).

Have damage?

No: see p. 9

8. Replace the lid.

9. Check if the rotor (slider) of the distributor is not damaged. Sometimes there is a failure of the interference resistance in the rotor. There are also cases of breakdown of the rotor hull "for mass".

Simultaneously check the starter of the engine crankshaft.

A warning

If the distributor rotor does not rotate when the engine turns out the starter - refer to the car service. An open-timer belt breaks or a dispenser drive breakage.

There are doubts? Replace the rotor.

Resistance can be temporarily replaced with a spherical handle spring.

10. Once again, observing precautions, check the presence of a spark. Try to start the engine.

Engine earned?

No: see paragraph 12

11. Have a good trip!

12. Check the presence of a spark on the ignition candlelight. Remove the high-voltage wire from any ignition candle. Insert the spark plug into the tip in the tip and press it with a metal part to the mass of the car. Be sure to use a thick rubber glove or passage with insulated handles. Turn the starter of the engine crankshaft.

Is there a spark?

No: see paragraph 14

13. Replace the spark plug new. You can first try to install not new, but verified, as they say, from the working machine.

14. Replace high voltage wires new. You can pre-try not new, but verified, "from the work machine".

A warning

When checking the system, in no case smoke and do not use open fire!

Yours technical equipment It should be impeccable - after all, the time you have, there are the same money that we hope you also have. Do not lose any other. If there is a disappearance of a tie or a library, a trouser who has lost the iron can cause a breakdown of a business meeting, then talking about a car that does not want to start an hour before the appointed negotiations.

Early in the morning, the freshly brightened and full of great plans (a child - to school, a wife - in a hairdresser, and he himself - to joke a labor penny), you jump into the car, "key to start" and ... what a damn ... still time. More ... Nervous manipulations with the key and pedals do not bring success. The day is spoiled from the very beginning. Plans and mood - a cat under the tail.

Calm down. It is not necessary to rush under the English costume under the hood and, sinking the tie oil mud, try to diagnose. In 5 minutes, most likely, do not cure. Take another car, and leave the treatment of a friend to the evening. And better instruct his doctors with a good reputation, especially if you have a dear car, and you are not special. So it will be cheaper. Well, if your friend is well acquainted and you consider yourself a healer - Well, try yourself, if not too lazy to get dirty or another output.

To the formulation of the diagnosis we must start quietly

Examine mentally symptoms. First - does the starter twist? And if so, how much is cheerful? You already know the answer - recall what happened at the first attempts to start the car. If you do not remember - try again.

If the starter does not twist at all and does not even click traction relay When the ignition is turned on, it is either faulty (you can close the hood and follow the advice above: "Take another machine .."), or trouble with the battery - turned off or sat down. Only B. rare models The starter power supply can be protected by the fuse - the amper of the ADAC is 300 - it is easy to find it, especially if you know where it is located. If the battery is to blame, then all electrical equipment does not work. The simplest and easiest case - flew or contaminated one of the terminals, but the battery is in order. Tighten the fastenings of the terminals on it and at the starter (if any). If it turns out that the battery completely sat down (they forgot to turn off the headlights on the night), you can still leave. But with an extreme help. Here, as they say, options are possible. You can try to start with a shock, from a slide or from a tug. Do not try to bypass underwater stones: a car with an automatic box or electronic injection fuel (if there electric gas station) It will not be possible to start these ways. We'll have to bite the neighbor. True, some machines may damage the computer (read the instructions for the machine). If the starter is twist, but sluggish (it happens in summer, in winter it is a subject of a separate conversation), most likely the battery is almost completely discharged. It will be visible on the weak light of the headlight or a sick signal. In this case, the above assistance options come into effect.

If the starter turns cheerfully, and the engine does not respond to attempts to start it, boldly exclude from further reflections all connected with the battery. Patya on the ignition system or fuel supply, you will not be mistaken. When making a diagnosis and treatment of each of them, a systematic approach is required. Start better from ignition - there are more often malfunctions. Especially in crude weather.

From the spark will marry ...

So, you need to look for a spark. Your car can be equipped with a classic (simplest) contact system Ignition, rather complicated electronic contactless or some combined option. In any case, the system consists of three parts. Part One - low-voltage (interrupter contacts in classic system or special sensor in electronic, plus box with electronic filling forming a spark). Part Two is an increase in the transformer, referred to in the world of the ignition coil. Part Three - high-voltage (mechanical or electronic distributor and wires for which the current high voltage sums up to candles). And naturally, the candles themselves. The check of all this farm must be carried out in stages and it is better to start from the end.

The first stage. High voltage part Systems. Check if there is a spark on the central wire - this is the one that connects the coil with the distributor. The tip of the wire must be removed from the distributor cover, closer to any part that has a good contact with the mass of the car (it is painted or not, it does not matter), and the gap of 5-7 mm remains between the tip and the selected part.

If the ignition of your machine is electronic, it is necessary to mount the wire especially reliably - if it falls on the ground, the electronics will instantly order for a long time. For the same reason, it is impossible to chirp the wire on the body. Do not advise him by hand either, not even with your own - it will hit the current.

Stage second. Turn the engine starter. At the same time, see what happens on the tip of the wire. Two options are possible. A more favorable is a spark. Powerful, accompanied by loud-clicking. This significantly narrows the field of further searches.

First of all, you need to remove the distributor cover. Under it can be raw and dirty. According to such a "conductor," the spark is willingly slipping anywhere, only not there, where it is necessary. Wash out, clean and dry. At the same time, it is harmful to clean the contacts of the distributor, for example, a shallow eye. Inspect the so-called "runner". If you find a dark trail of the electrical breakdown on it or on the distributor cover, the part will have to change.

The most respectful way to check the wires from the distributor to the candles. Wires and their tips should be dry and clean. If with them, in your opinion, everything is in order, you can put the lid in place, restore the connections and try to start the engine. If the fault was burned under the lid - the engine will start or, in the worst case, at least start sneezing. The symptom is also favorable - you are on the right track. True, you will have to turn, clean and dry the candles - in trying to start the engine you poured them with gasoline. If the engine does not even sneeze, the candles still have to turn, clean and check. Simply, if there is a spare kit.

If you have already reached the step of turning the candles, it is possible to be quite effective (and effectively) to check the entire ignition system as a whole. Connecting the high-voltage wires to the twin candles, collect candles in a bundle, like carrots, and wrap directly along their threaded part with a naked soft wire. Make sure the wire has contact with each candle, but does not concern the central electrodes. Fluent wire end connect with mass. By placing a beam of candles in a convenient place to observe the location, screw the engine starter. At the same time, there should be funny sparks between the electrodes of candles in turn (in accordance with the order of cylinders). If so, then the whole ignition system is in order. The sound of the engine will be very unusual - do not be scared, because it spins with twisted candles. Do not twist for a long time. Worse, if at the second stage of checking there is another option: the sparks between the central wire and the "case" is not. So it's not in high-voltage chains. Further search will be more complicated, appreciate your time and desire. If both are available, proceed to the third stage. Check if the voltage is supplied to the ignition coil. It is easy to make a tester, and if it is not, you can use a rotor light bulb. True, you will need a pair of wires to connect it to the coil. In the classic ignition system, connect the light bulb between the mass and the input of the primary winding.

In the third stage, as usual, two options are also possible: the voltage to the coil is either served or not. If it is served, the coil is to blame - a breakdown or short circuit, which, however, it happens extremely rarely. The coil will have to change. It is more likely to be bad contact in the mounting of the wires to the coil. Or the same wet dirt, according to which the spark bucks not known where. Sometimes the coil is cleaned to the brilliance, but under it the invisible very narrow strip of dirt is preserved - a good conductor.

If, at the third stage, you were convinced that the coil voltage is not served - the electronics or contacts and contacts and unreliable connections in the low-voltage part of the ignition system are to blame. With electronics (switch and, less often, sensor in the distributor housing) you can not cope - for their diagnostics you need special equipment. It is possible for you to pull the sensor connector on the dispenser housing - suddenly helps. If you have a car with a classic ignition contact system, you can find further.

Remove the cover from the distributor and inspect the contacts of the interrupter - they can oxidize, especially if the car stood for some time without movement. Contacts need to be carefully cleaned with a thin eyelet or special nadfyl.

Hold the cleaned contacts so that they are closed, they swallowed. The voltage on them is only 12 volts, so it is possible to pull without knowlessly. If the cleaning did not help and the coil voltage is still not fed, we once again advise you to finish the attempts to resuscitate the car, since the difficulty will begin.

If the voltage appeared (when moving the contacts, the lamp flashes), restore all the developed and disassembled, start the car and, maybe still will have time to do. If it does not start, but at least sneezes - turn out the candles and ...

Do not press the floor - it will not help

It may turn out that the entire ignition system was checked, everything is in order, and the engine, even though you are crazy, does not start. Therefore, problems with another of the previously mentioned systems - power system, i.e., fuel supply to the engine.

If you have an injection machine ( injector system Feed) Fuel - Do not touch it (to the system). You can only come to the conclusion that it was broken by it: there is a spark that fuel is suitable - it means she is rim. Treatment only in the hospital. At home and kustareys, it is useless to repair it and even harmful.

In the usual carburetor Engine fuel system Simply - tank, gas station, a set of pipelines and a carburetor. Here you can smooth yourself. First of all, you need to make sure that gasoline enters the carburetor. Disconnect the hose from the carburetor and click on the manual fuel swap lever. If a rather powerful jet of gasoline scored - everything is fine, it's time to go to the carburetor. It happens that gasoline is applied to the carburetor properly, but for some reason it does not come. If there is time and desire, remove the air filter, then ask someone to sharply click on the accelerator pedal. Or you can dramatically pull the throttle drive cable. At the same time, look at the carburetor from above (the air damper is open, otherwise you will not see anything): If the gasoline strika does not appear in the first diffuser - it means that there is no it in the float chamber. There is no it there because the needle of the valve (it happens very often) is completely clogged with a fuel filter in the carburetor - it is located in front of the float chamber. Or zepers clouded. The filter is purified by purging, however, in the absence of the necessary skills, it is better not to bind to the carburetious insides at all, to deal with the healing of the needle valve, clogging of loopholes and other subtleties - let it make specialists.

If the trickle is in the diffuser, pay attention to the launching device of the carburetor - it is quite often fail. On foreign cars starting from about the 70s, applied automatic control air damper. The device without your participation, depending on the engine temperature, closes or opens the flap as far as it is necessary, enriching the mixture when the engine starts. If this automation works, you can try manual manipulations with air damper, but there are a lot of options and there are no universal councils. Before starting manipulations, connect and secure the previously disconnected fuel hose. Air filter can not be installed yet. If it starts, let the engine warm up and with God (after returning the air filter to the place) .. if when checking the fuel supply by a fuel pump, it turns out that gasoline from the hose does not go or the trickle is very fluid, the reason should be sought in the closed pipelines, the fuel filter or fuel filter The fuel tube itself - you can easily demonstrate your masterness, pumping the benzins of the tire pump in the direction, inverse the movement of gasoline, i.e. from the carburetor to Baku. In the tank should be heard the ardor, bullous sounds.

With a fine fuel filter, everything is simple. Although almost all modern models, it is made in a transparent building, the degree of contamination is impossible to visually determine. The dirty filter will allow you to start the engine, but will not allow you to go normally. If it is completely clogged - the engine does not start. The most efficient check: Remove the filter and, if there is no new, temporarily replace it with a suitable tube, for example, the ballpoint housings are better transparent - it can be seen how gasoline flows. Do not attempt to clean the filter - a walled (or missed) case does not understand.

If you came to the conclusion that your car does not work the fuel pump, and there is no spare on hand - "Take another car ...".

Rare, but the most unpleasant diagnosis we left at last. If the starter works fine, you have already spent a bunch of time and made sure that ignition and food in complete order , and the car, however, does not start - it is worth inspecting the drive belt distribution Vala . However, decide for yourself, this check can be carried out at the beginning, especially if the engine has already passed more than 60 thousand. The complexity is that we will have to remove or at least partially bend the top of the closing belt of plastic casing. It is possible that the belt was cut off the teeth - in the belts, like people, teeth are lost from old age. In this case, the camshaft does not rotate and the engine will not work. It is clear that a toothless belt requires replacement (those who have a car with chain drive camshaft, this trouble does not threaten). The belt replacement procedure is not complicated, but troublesome. Carried out in the hospital. Well, if everything limits the replacement of only the belt, and not bent valves or the entire block of the block - it also happens.

About the causes of atherosclerosis

Let's try to explain why the car's blood system is sometimes amazed by "atherosclerosis". Gasoline - blood car. And blood should be clean and run through clean vessels. And in the fact that in vessels over a permissible measure, "cholesterol" is accumulated, as a rule, we are to blame. Do you often use Cannomen for gasoline topping? If so, the chances of cloging the benzipers and filters are rising, especially if your funnel without a mesh. In the canister usually accumulate trash, rust, sand, and if the canister is painted inside, then paint particles. It is clear that the smaller the amount of intermediate packaging is used on the path of gasoline from the column in the tank, the better. Whatever enough, even on the most saddeless gas station of dirt in tanks in a specific rate than in the "home" cancut. Beach of our benzokolonok is not so much dirt as water. But here we are powerless. On our memory, only one rogue has grown on liluting gasoline Yes, and that is not water, but the donkey urine, and not in life, but in the movies (see "Gentlemen of Good luck"). So you have to put up. However, to properly do not add water to domestic diluted gasoline, try to always keep the tank full. In an incomplete tank, condensate accumulates, especially in the offseason, when sharp temperature differences occur.

Smaller fucking

It is worth saying a few words about the battery. Since on most modern cars, it is maintenance free, it makes no sense to give here instructions for use. We will give only a few additional advice, how long to keep the battery viable. Do not get carried away with your machine with additional energy consumers. The fact that in the energy balance of the machine is provided for a defined stock that allows you to connect to two-three "thugs", does not mean that you can hang six clicksons for the car and ten foglights - have a sense of measure. In addition, if you connect the unforeseen Tsatski yourself, the likelihood of insulation damage is great. And in general, as practice shows, any, even the most qualified operational intervention in the wiring of the car sooner or later makes itself felt. Trouble.

If your battery breathes to incense, try not to kick the engine during cutting stops in the city. Nothing raises the battery as a frequent use of the starter.

And the last (this applies not only to the battery, but also the entire electrical equipment in general). Remember: all terminals, contacts, wire tips should be dry and clean and well to lay down to "destinations". Dirty, grilled insulation sooner or later breaks through, and the burning and oxidation of any contact surface can serve as the only (and sufficient) cause of the ignition system failure. Or fire.

This can be stopped. The meticulous car enthusiasts undoubtedly noticed at some superficialness of our tips. We admit, we intentionally do not want to go deep into the debrist. In order not to provoke you to self-medication - it does not lead to good. Understanding the nature of pain at the bottom of the belly on the right does not mean that you yourself must delete your appendix. But you need to describe the doctor's doctor's symptoms for sure. Very helps treatment.

Hello! I have a VAZ 21213 Niva, when turning the key in the ignition lock, there is no characteristic inclusion noise fuel pump . . What to do? Thank you! (Pavlov Sergey)

Good day, Sergey. We will tell about the reasons for the failure of the gas station below.

Why doesn't the pump work?

So, what may be due to the inoperability of the element:

1. First of all, it is necessary to check the performance of the fuses. Open the unit and find a fuse or relay responsible for the functioning of the fuel pump. If the element has failed, you need to replace it.
2. The device itself has failed. IN this case It will only be replaced by replacing the pump assembly.
3. No contact. You need to get to the device and check the performance of all contacts - there is no breakfast, whether all the wiring harnesses are connected.
4. Bad mass of the aggregate. Sometimes it happens that the mass of the mass oxidized and cannot transmit contact. In this case, you need to check its condition and deteriorate if necessary. If we have a problem, then you will also notice that dashboard A gasoline level will fall.

Now as for the starter, why he refuses to twist:

1. The simplest is the discharged battery. Perhaps you are first of all, but we must warn about it. Try or "bribe" from another car.
2. Signaling. In some cases, in practice, we have repeatedly come across such a problem as alarm closure. It happens in different reasons - due to water from entering the alarm unit, wiring breaks, etc. But the result is one - if the signaling block closes, there will be no fuel pump. The problem is solved by repairing fees or its replacement, although the search may take a certain time.
3. The failure of the retractor relay. In this case, the starter will either be silent or buzz, but it will be impossible to start the engine.
4. Bendix breakdown. This element is a gear located on one shaft with a starter rotor. In the event that the gear formed strong wear Teeth may arise problems with the start of the engine.
5. Worn sleeves. The only way out will be replaced.
6. Wear device windings. This occurs as a result of the fact that the element has already worked out its resource of operation. Replacing the windings - the case is not easy and time consuming, it will be easier to completely change the component completely.

Video "How to find the cause of the pump breakage"

In detail about the search for the cause of the breakdown of the fuel pump, look at the video (author - Sergey L).