How to disassemble the hub on the VAZ. The front wheel hub - what you need to know about the device. Front wheel hub repair do it yourself

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So, today we will talk about the replacement of the front bearings on cars VAZ of the classic family, I will say right away that it is not difficult to do this, under the power of any car owner and without the use of special funds.

It is quite simple to determine the disrepair of front wheels bearings quite simply, the main signs of the malfunction is:

The inability to adjust the axial clearance of the wheel, the nut is twisted, the wheel is still walking
The bearing is buzzing, usually it is manifested at certain speeds, then it can snatch, also change its intensity in turns.
Close-up wheel turning, you can check the car subdomain and twisting with hand per wheel
Also a variety of crosses, creak, screech and TP

To replace the bearing of the front hub of cars VAZ you will need:

New bearings, preferably not the cheapest
Front Neck Oil
Solidol.
Gasoline or solvent, brush for washing

Start the replacement of the front hub bearing start with the removal of the wheel and install the car on the support, I always do so, leave the car on the jack I do not like, too unstable.

Next, you need to unscrew the two brake caliper fastening screws, for this you will need a cape key or head to 17, if everything is done as it should be, then these screws are completed with a washer, it must be bent. Now you need carefully, not much straining the brake hose, remove the caliper and put it on the lever.

If brake pads interfere, it is necessary to push them with a screwdriver or a similar object.

Further remove the cap, which closes the adjusting nut and the front wheel bearings, in the photo above it has already been removed. Further key to 27 (like, I don't remember exactly) we turn the nut of the front hub, there are our nuances here:

These nuts have different threads on both sides, on the left wheel (near the driver's door) the thread is ordinary, the left carving on the right wheel. It is also recommended when removing the nut replace it with a new one.

We unscrew the nut and remove the puck with a tooth which is under it.

We remove the nut, the puck, the outer bearing, then remove the brake disc itself. I took everything and decomposed on the newspaper:

Here I want to note that I will only wash the hub and bearings, since after inspection the need for replacement I did not see and did not hear. If you change the bearing, then you only remain with the help of the drawing to knock out the external bearing clips, it is not necessary to throw them, since with their help we will forget new closures.

After extracting, we need to thoroughly wash all the dirt and old solidol from the inside the hub. If this is not done, then new bearings will last long, because it is no secret that the sand is excellent abrasive. I do not change the bearings, but I wash both the bearings themselves and the inner part of the hub with external clips.

It is also necessary to wash and the shaft of the swivel fist, which on which the bearings of the internal rope are dressed.

The rear hub VAZ-2108 is attached to the wheel with four bolts. Here is the brake drum, with which the car is stopped. The hub itself fails very rarely, it is usually changed in the destruction of the inner surface or a thread, which screws the wheel fastening bolts.

Much more often remove the hub to replace the bearing. This is the most vulnerable design element. Riding with a broken bearing will not bring a lot of fun, as the extraneous vibration will appear, the noise that is enhanced when the speed set and the entry in turns.

How to check the bearing hub

When the rear hub bearing breaks, you will hear the characteristic howl coming from the trunk. Try to listen, which particular side comes the sound. This will allow you to shorten the time to search for a faulty bearing. To make diagnostics, it is necessary to raise the wheel, then rotate it with your hands.

If the bearing is good, then no noise will be. The wheel is rotated without jamming. But if the bearing is faulty, it will appear strong noise, as well as the metal sound, as if the balls inside the bearing are rolled. The stronger the noise, the greater the wear of the hub bearing. It is advisable to replace immediately on both sides, this will improve the efficiency of repair.

What tools will need

To replace the rear hub bearing VAZ-2108, you will need to have such a tool:

Head to "30" and the knob, as well as the cut pipe. You can use even a cape key, but it must be very curved to easily install the hub to the nut.
Kerner or a thin chisel. It is advisable to sharpen the chisel in advance. This tool is needed to straighten the jammed edge on the nut.
It is advisable to have a three-year and double-liter puller. The first is necessary in order to dismantle the wheel hub, and the second for removing the inner coating of the bearing.
Tongs to extract and install locking rings.
It is advisable to have a puller at hand to extract and install the bearing in the hub.
You also need any type of keys to "12", "13", "14".
No way do without hammer and wooden spacer.

Be sure to purchase a good bearing, it is also desirable to buy a nut. Old use is not recommended. You can purchase the rear hub of the VAZ-2108 assembly, it will greatly facilitate repair, but will hardly hit the wallet.

Technical characteristics of bearings

Catalog number of the product - 256706, he has such characteristics:

The diameter of the inner cut is 30 mm.
The diameter of the external rope is 60 mm.
Mass - 400 gr.
Bearing width - 37 mm.
Inside there are 28 balls with a diameter of 9.525 mm.
Dynamic carrying capacity of at least 30.1 kN.
Static carrying capacity of 25.9 kN.
Bearing works fine at 6500 rpm.

Total four manufacturer of these products in Russia:

OJSC "SPZ" (Saratov). Produces the highest quality and durable bearings. The cost is quite low.
GPZ-23 (Vologda). Looks very good elements that are a little inferior to Saratov (designated VBF abbreviation).
Samara SPZ-4. It is not distinguished by the quality of products, but the cost is very low.
GPZ-20 in Kursk. I was engaged in the production of high-quality products, you can currently be found on the shelves only copies of past years of release.

Preparation for repair

All work must be carried out on the observation pit or the elakade. But if you do not have such amenities, you have to post the back of the car so that it is above the ground. The procedure for conducting preparatory work:

Install the car on a flat site.
Under the front wheels, put the stops.
Turn on the first speed.
Release the nut, which is delayed by the drive brake (optional).

After that, it is necessary to loosen the rear-wheel fastening bolts on which the repair is made. It is also desirable to uninstall the nut on the hub, after which it to rip it with the key to "30". After that, you can post the side of the car to make further repairs.

Removing the hub

To remove the hub of the VAZ-2108 rear wheel, you will need to perform several simple manipulations:

Fully unscrew the wheel fastening bolts.
Remove the wheel.
Unscrew the nut that is on the hub.
Using the key to "12", unscrew the studs that mounted brake drum to the wheel hub.
Place these studs in the adjacent holes and evenly twist them. So you will get shifted from your place the brake drum. If it does not help, you need to gently hit the drum from your place with the help of hammer and wooden spacer.
Use long bolts, you need to screw them into two opposite holes on the hub. It is necessary to twist them until the hub starts to go from his seat. You can use the puller with three paws for this purpose. The extreme measure is the installation of the back of the wheel and jerking it with his hands.
Sometimes the inner coating of the bearing remains on the axis. It must be removed. To do this, first with the help of a chisel, you need to move a little on the axis, then install the puller with two paws. Be sure after dismantling, make sure that there are no damage on the axis. Otherwise, clean the metal using a small file.

On this disassembly, the hub is over, it is in your hands, and you can replace the bearing. The dimensions of the rear hub of the VAZ-2108 are the same as in similar models that were produced under the name "Samara" and "Samara-2".

How to remove the bearing

The most interesting thing is ahead - you need to remove the bearing from the hub. To do this, follow these steps:

Using ticks, remove stop rings. If you do not have such a tool, you can use a thin screwdriver or seer.
It is advisable to apply a special puller to extract the bearing. It is installed on the element throughout the area, evenly when the nut is tightening, the bearing is squeezed. But if there is no such tool, you can use an outer clip from the old bearing. Applying uniformly punches, remove an element from the landing place.

VAZ-2108 rear hub bearing dimensions are slightly less than the classic series cars. But it does not mean that they are very weak. If the mounting of the bearing is made correctly, it will serve for a long time.

Installing a new bearing

Before installing a new element, it is necessary to inspect the entire inner surface. It should not be loops and damage. To install it a little easier, you can put a new bearing for several hours into the freezer, and warm the hub. But pay attention to the fact that it is impossible to heat up to very high temperatures.

Otherwise, when installing a new bearing, there will be a melting of its glands, which will significantly reduce the resource of the element. Pressing the bearing should be done using the puller or use the rope from the old element. Be sure to fix the bearing position using locking rings, make sure that they hit their grooves.

Final assembly

For assembly, follow these actions:

Install the hub on the axis.
Put on the puck and tighten the nut from hand.
Install the brake drum and tighten the stud.
Put the wheel and lower the car.
Check all threaded connections.
Get the nut on the hub.

The assembly of the entire node occurs in the reverse order. The hub nut must be tightened with a moment about 200 N * m.

The domestic producer of Will-Neils has to be adapted for European standards. And it is very cool, because in the mode of Soviet technical insulation, we still used morally outdated solutions. This seemed to be a trifle like the front hub bearing, but with the transition to the European HUB system (closed roller or ballly maintained bearing), the resource of the part grew almost three times. Even if we take into account the costs of local production.

Which wheel bearings are better to buy on VAZ-2110

Front hub bearing 2108-3103020-01.

Western European engineers took an active part in the development of VAZ 2108. That is why from the front-wheel-drive firstborn Vaz dozen got the most advanced solutions at that time. Including the bearing front hub. Domestic manufacturers have always been proud of their bearings, however, the time has shown that from the huge number of factories, and only five were competitive in modern conditions. And it was the hub "Hubovsky" bearing brought them into industry leaders.

Artikula

Tengable roller wheel bearing has articles 2108-3103020-01 and 2108-3103020-02 , its size 34x64x37 mm .

On the conveyor, this detail supplies the company Lada-Image. The resource of the native bearing is very mediocre and, of course, it depends on the operating conditions - from 30 to 45 thousand mileage.

"Nadfit" test

When replacing you can spend "Nadfit" test : Take a new and old bearings, we try to cut the edge of the napfil. Good clip can not be leaving , the addil will just slide on the surface, without leaving traces. Cheap domestic bearings are performed with a violation of technology and therefore the feet leaves on a test site noticeable traces - metal with raw, and, therefore, such bearings are taking place until the back of the backlash or even before the destruction is not long.

Quality and verification

This is a lyrics, and now we go to the store choose a high-quality part. Chinese handicrafts are welcome not to worry, pay attention first to domestic plants. Their bearings are cheaper, and you will have to choose from such a list:

The 23rd Vologda GPZ is now called VBF. ;
The 3rd GPZ from Saratov is called SPZ. ;
10th GPZ (Rostov) Name did not change;
VPZ 15. - this is the Volga factory;
The 9th GPZ from Samara turned into the SVZ-Group plant.

Marking

When choosing, you need to pay attention to the labeling: the certified bearing will be marked only on the European standard (not GPZ-15, and VPZ, for example).

Prices

Vologda bearing will cost approximately half a thousand rubles.

The price of domestic parts can vary from 500 to 700 rubles per piece. Import analogues are more expensive, but there are other quality standards, if you do not take into account the fraternal China:

german LGR Bearing with Catalog Number LGR-4703. , order price 700 rubles , excellent quality, if not fake;

italian Marel ( 2108-3103020m. ) with price order 750 rubles , high-quality and hardy, guaranteed to use ESSO lubricant;

per 800 rubles You can buy a schs wheel bearing with a number 3464 0037 , famous firm, excellent quality;

SNR (R172.03) , Japan, the price of about 1,200 rubles, almost the eternal bearing, if not fake.

Symptoms breakdown

Bearing replacement is carried out when such symptoms appear:

Noise and tapping in the front hub.

Strong backlash on the bearing.

Lubricant leakage from under the bearing seal.

Mechanical damage to the node.

Methods for replacing the bearing front hub on VAZ-2110

The replacement procedure is not the simplest, but you can save a thousand-minute one and a half. This amount is asked only for work on a hundred.

So that everything went smoothly, it will be necessary for the shutter of the wheel bearings 2108-2112. Unfortunately, without him we will not be able to remove nor press the new bearing. The screw removal is very simple in design and costs about 300-380 rubles, so it will not be a burden for the budget and it will be useful. We also need a key or head to 30 and a standard set of tools.

The replacement technology of the bearing depends on whether we will carry out the associated repair or replacement of the elements of the suspension, the brake system or steering. You can go one of the three ways:

Dismantling bearing without removing the swivel fist . The fastest and easiest way. Even the observation pit will not need. It is good because we do not break the wheel collapse. It is not very comfortable for the minus it is not very comfortable.

Replacing a fist . Works are much more, but the bearing itself can be removed in the vice on the workbench.

Dismantling the hub assembly with the rack . This option is the most time consuming and is used when we pass the rack, silent blocks, ball, turning bearing rack or other parts. Fully removed the rack to replace the bearing is irrational and long.

If you remove a fist, then the bearing will be discussed and without a puller.

Replacement algorithm

Having all the necessary tools, you can start work without delay. We will replace the bearing, following the first algorithm, that is, without disassembling the rack and fist

We set the car on a flat surface, tighten the handbrake and put the stops under the rear wheels.

Remove the protective cap nut of the bearing.
Remove the protective cap.

Head on 30 tearing the nut. If we have alloy wheels installed, then you have to tear the nut with the wheel removed. In this case, it is necessary that the assistant blocked the wheels by pressing the brake.

We tear the wheezing bolts and raise the car on the jack.
We substitute the support under the bottom of the car.

We unscrew the caliper, we take it from the brake disc and hang on the wire hook so that the hoses are in a free position, without tension.
We assign caliper to the side.

Remove the brake disc.

We unscrew the hub nut.
Turn the nut to the end and remove the washer.

We take two studs, insert them into the holes of the brake disk and screw them into the hub. Studs must be at least 300-400 mm long.
We apply bolts to the entire depth of the hub.

Carefully chuck down (energetic blows) brake disk hub.
Having dramatically hitting the brake disc on the heads of the bolts, we will write the hub.

The technical condition of the chassis affects the comfort of the trip and, most importantly, the safety of passengers, the driver and other participants in the movement. The front wheel hub is the most important element of the suspension, from which the controllability and the braking path of the car depends. If the hub bearing fails and commits, the machine will dramatically change the course that will provoke an accident. If the wheel breakdowns, the wheel can simply fall off.

Therefore, it is necessary to regularly monitor the technical condition of this node and carry out its maintenance and repair. To do this, you need to know the hub device and the signs for which you can define a malfunction at an early stage.

Purpose

The front wheel hub performs three major functions:

Ensuring the mobile and reliable connection of the semi-axis with a wheeled disk.
Holding the brake disc or drum to ensure efficient braking of the car.
Transmission of torque from a screw (hinge of equal angular velocities) to the driving wheel (relevant for all-wheel drive and front-wheel drive machines). To do this, slots are applied on the inner surface of the hub that enters the semi-axle. That is, the hubs of the front wheels perform the details of the transmission and allow the vehicle to move.

In modern cars, stuffed electronics, sensors are installed in the hubs that ensure the operation of anti-slip, anti-lock and other systems that are needed to control the rotation of the wheels and the behavior of the car on the road.

Device

At such a high functionality of the front wheel hub has a very simple device. It consists of four main details:

Body hub. This is a round monolithic part that has passed the turning. It is made of solid high-strength alloy capable of withstanding high dynamic and static load.
Wheel studs are used to attach a wheeler. Often, instead there are threaded holes for fastening bolts.
Bearings that are on the axial shaft and ensure the rotation of the hub.
Motion sensors connected to an on-board computer or brake system control unit (optional).

Most manufacturers provide for the replacement of all the parts of the hub included (often it concerns the sensors). This is done in order to ensure safety and reduce the slightest chance of breaking the responsible node while driving.

Causes of hub parts breakdown

The most unreliable detail, which is subject to wear and breakdown - the bearing of the hub. This is the only movable part, the wear resistance of which is ensured by high quality material and lubrication. Due to this, in normal operation, it serves as a mark of 100 thousand kilometers of run and more.

Taking into account the state of our roads, this service life can dramatically cut. This happens for the following reasons:

Blows due to wheel hit in pits at high speed. The dynamic loads arising first of all affect the bearings and only after them to the other parts of the suspension.
Loss or lubrication contamination. When damageing anthers, the lubrication from the inner part of the bearing is washed away, and the part is clogged with mud and requires urgent replacement.
Incorrect tightening when replacing or maintained. Excessively tightened bearing overheats and destroys. The weak tightening torque causes the backlash and intensive wear detail.
Errors when pressing the bearing during replacement. Drying and damage strongly reduce the service life of the part. Therefore, to trust the replacement you need only experienced locksmiths with a good reputation.

The breakdown (deformation) of the hub itself can occur only as a result of strong blows about the edge of the road pits or an accident.

To extend the life of the node, you need to monitor the state of the anthers and gently drive the car, circling the pits and slowing down in front of them.

Features of the front wheel hub faults

The main sign of problems with the hub bearing is the appearance of a characteristic crunch or a goula during the movement of the vehicle. With a large backlash, the picture can be supplemented with a knock when rotating the steering wheel.

The wear of the hub bearing or the deformation of the body of the hub leads to the appearance of vibration, which is given in the steering wheel or the car body.

The subdrying of one of the bearings leads to the insulation of the car from the trajectory. In this case, you need to immediately change the item to avoid a serious accident. Sweeping and excessive tightening can be determined by intense heating wheels.

Another possible sign of the problem: uneven or intensive rubber wear.

Important: These features do not necessarily arise precisely because of the hub malfunction. However, they are a mandatory reason for checking this detail.

To make sure that the bearing is managed, such operations should be done:

put the car on the "handbrake";
subdominate the front wheel and shake in a vertical plane;
twist the wheel with his hands.

In the presence of backlash, knock or noise you need to change the wheel bearing. Pay attention to the nature of the backlash or knock. If they disappear when the brake is pressed - the cause in the bearing, otherwise - in ball supports or steering rods.

Adjusting the hub bearing

It will take:

jack;
cylinder key;
dynamometer key;
durable screwdriver;
chisel;
a hammer;
set of end keys, including large size (32 or more).

To adjust the hub bearing you need to perform such actions:

subdomgize the wheel;
unscrew the fastening bolts and remove the wheel;
remove the protective cap of the bearing assembly using the chisel with the hammer;
put the wheel in place, fixing it with two bolts;
straighten the hub bin and unscrew it with an end key (usually on 27);
replace the nut new and tighten with an effort 20 H * M (more accurate digit can be found in the repair manual for a specific auto model);

Tip: While tightening nuts, you need to slightly rotate the wheel along the movement of the car to calibrate the bearing.

Bearing hub - the main element of the wheel. It is it that allows the wheel to rotate. It comes to very high loads and how any item it fails. This is a "luxury" element of the car, but it has a resource.

Signs of the Malfunction of the Bearing of the Front Hub VAZ 2109

The sound is similar to a crunch with a straight line movement. It will be heard on both the street and in the cabin.
Vibration on the steering wheel. This feature appears when the bearing is very worn. Very much most likely wedge wheel, which can lead to an accident.
Auto pulls to the side. Bearing Kakba Masting Wheel
If the backlash appears when the wheel is racking with hands. Also, clicks will also be heard.

Replacing the bearing of the front hub VAZ 2109 2110, with these symptoms is inevitable.

Video on the replacement of the bearing front hub

1. Remove the hub cap.

2. Chisel to straighten the bearing nut in two places.

3. Tighten the manual brake, turn on the 1st transmission and substitute the stops under the wheels.

4. Loosen the bearing nut with the head or clad curved key. It is tightened very much, so the head or key must be durable, so as not to be afraid or broken. Use a long lever to loosen the nut (piece of the pipe).

5. Loosen the wheel bolts.

6. Raise the front wheels, in this case the transverse stability stabilizer will not interfere with the repair. It is also possible to raise only the wheel on which the repair will be made. In this case, to pressed the suspension elements, use the mount. Put under the car a safety support next to the jacks (Poek or something similar). When repaired, sometimes considerable efforts will be attached and if the jack is rapping, the support will hold the car.

7. Remove the wheel, guide brake pads with a caliper and brake disc.

8. Template the brake pad guide along with the caliper so that they do not hurt on the brake hose and did not damage it.
9. Remove the finally the bearing nut and remove the puck.

10. Insert into two diametrically opposite holes in the brake disc bolts about 135 mm and with M12 x1.25mm thread. Fastening bolts are suitable, the heads that stand on the "classic" (2106, 2107, etc.)
11. Return these bolts into the hub holes (opposite each other) for all its thickness
12. Sharply leading the brake disc on bolts, like on the guides, hit the bolt heads and thereby remove the hub.

13. Unscrew the ball support bolts to the twilty fist (replacement of the ball) and output the cut (grenade) from the bearing opening.

14. Tongs remove the locking ring.

15. The remover is discrepanted the bearing into a cup that is located outside the swivel fist, while the bolt presses on the inner ring of the bearing through the puck from the inside of the fist.

Pullover with bearing

16. If there is no puller, then it is possible to remove the bearing clip from the hub (cm with paragraph 17) (although it is also not so simple, and without a puller, but another kind of kind is even more difficult) and inserting it into the hole where the bearing is, Narrow part of beat through something metallic.

17. As a rule, after expressing the hub, the bearing ring is usually left on it (clip). To remove it, you need a puller. If it is not, then you'll put it up with a screwdriver and remove the dirt-proof ring ...

18 ... Chisel Slide the ring of the bearing.

19. When you remove the ring, then discharge from the chisel to work out the proper.

20. Install the dirt progress and wrap it on the hub.

21. Clean, lubricate the inner surface of the swivel fist.
22. Press the new bearing in the swivel fist. At the same time, the large washer of the puller should be based on the inside of the swivel fist so as not to damage its dirt rings, and on the new bearing when pressing it can be pressed through the old bearing, which will transmit the force only through the outer ring.

Put the lock ring.
23. Press the hub in the bearing, pre-lubricate the hole with the oil or WD-40. Now the washers of the puller rest in the inner ring of the bearing and the hub.

If there is no puller, then score a little hub and output the end of the screen so that you can hug the hub nut. Rotating the nut you will attract the hub with a shrus as a puller. Adhere to the bearing with the inside of the swivel fist.

Tighten the hub nut to the end only when the wheel is already on the ground. Do not forget to get a bin on the nut. Replacing the bearing front hub VAZ 2109 2110 is over