The starter does not start the machine turns but does not grab. Why the engine does not "grab" when the motor starts: the main reasons and what to make the driver wise leaders create general contexts

1. Check for the health of the engine power system items.
2. Check and eliminate the possible motor control system malfunctions after the ignition is turned on.
3. Actions depending on the thermal state of the engine:
   • If the air temperature (parameter TAIR) is lower than minus 25 ° C, then the engine start without prior pre-preheating oil in the crankcase and coolant is not recommended. The use of a start-rate device operating from a 220 V network is not allowed at air temperature below -30 ° C.
   • If the air temperature is -5 ...- 20 ° C, it is recommended before starting to warm the engine receiver with warm water. The starter scroll time must be no more than 10 seconds, repeated scrolling is allowed no earlier than after 1 minute.
   • Before running the blowing of cylinders by air, in the case when the air temperature and coolant is below 0 ° C or when 2-3 attempts to start it turned out to be unsuccessful. To do this, press the accelerator pedal stop and perform a starter engine scrolling for (3 ± 1) seconds. Upon completion of the scroll, check the state of the battery if the battery voltage (UACC parameter) is below 11.8 V, then perform the prevention of the battery.
   • It is not recommended to start the engine from the superheated state when the coolant temperature (TWAT parameter) exceeds 100 ° C, and the air temperature in the receiver is more than 65 ° C.

1. Do not press before turning on the ignition on the accelerator pedal.
2. Turn on the ignition. Perform the necessary actions in accordance with the "basic recommendations before carrying out the engine start."
3. Do not go to launch if:
   • electrical displacement has not yet turned off;
   • if the engine malfunction lamp is burning.
4. Turn on the engine starter scrolling for the time required for a steady start, but not more than 10 seconds.
5. If the engine does not start, go to the analysis of the unexpected engine starting situations.

1. When installing the ignition key to the "Starter" position, the engine crankshaft does not rotate. There is no failure (up to 10 V below) on the voltage of the boots, observed according to the oscillogram of the UACC parameter. Self-diagnostics does not record fault codes.
2. • the control circuit or the starter power supply is faulty;
   • faulty to turn on the starter;
   • faulty starter or its retractor relay.

1. Engine coolant temperature above 5 ° C. When installing the ignition key to the starter position, the engine crankshaft is slightly rotated. Observed by the signpost, the failure of the battalion below 7 V. Information communication with the control unit is interrupted.
2. Check and eliminate possible faults:
   • Insufficient charge or battery malfunction. Perform the prophylaxis of the battery or replace it with a good one.
   • There is no reliable connection of the starter power circuits to the battery or to the mass of the engine.
   • The starter electric drive is defective. Replace starter.

1. Engine coolant temperature above 5 ° C. When installing the ignition key to the starter position, the engine crankshaft rotates steadily. Freq parameter (crankshaft rotation) of more than 200 rpm. The self-diagnosis of the block does not record the system malfunctions or fixes individual malfunction codes of the primary control chains of ignition coils 91 ... 98, 231 ... 238, 241 ... 248.
   • Check the condition of the power supply chains (27B, 27B) and control (1, 20) ignition coils.
2. Engine coolant temperature above 5 ° C. When installing the ignition key to the starter position, the engine crankshaft rotates steadily. Parameter Freq \u003d 0 rpm. The self-diagnosis of the block does not record the system faults.
   • Check the condition of the wiring harness chains (48, 49) of the crankshaft position sensor and the function of the sensor itself.

1. Engine coolant temperature above 5 ° C. When installing the ignition key to the "Starter" position, the engine "grabs" and stops. Reverse flashes are observed in the intake manifold engine. FREQ parameter (crankshaft rotation speed) more than 400 rpm. The self-diagnosis of the block fixes the fault code 53.
   • Check the probability of an erroneous connection of the wiring of the harness (chains 1 and 20) to the ignition coils of 1.4 and 2.3 cylinders.

1. Engine coolant temperature above 5 ° C. When installing the ignition key to the "Starter" position, the engine "grabs" and stops. Freq parameter (crankshaft rotation speed) more than 300 rpm. The self-diagnosis of the block fixes the fault codes 53 or 29.
   • Check the probability of erroneous stirring of the wiring of the harness to the crankshaft position sensor (chains 48, 49).
   • Check the mounted gap between the sensor end and the synchronization disk.
   • Check out the service and, if necessary, replace the synchronization sensor on knowingly serviceable.

1. Cooling fluid temperature below 5 ° C. When installing the ignition key to the "Starter" position, the engine "grabs" and stalls. FREQ parameter (crankshaft rotation speed) more than 400 rpm. The self-diagnosis of the block records the fault codes 53, 21 or 22.
   • Check that the coolant temperature sensor is connected or the probability of erroneous wire reversal (chains 45, 30d).
   • Check the condition of the circuits 45 and 30d of the wiring harness to the coolant temperature sensor.
   • Check the service and, if necessary, replace the temperature sensor on knowingly serviceable.

1. Engine coolant temperature above 70 ° C. When installing the ignition key to the "Starter" position, the engine starts and stalls. FREQ parameter (crankshaft rotation speed) more than 1000 rpm. The self-diagnosis of the block fixes the fault code 53.
2. After 5 seconds after switching on the ignition, check the gauge pressure gauge in the fuel ramp:
   • If it is higher than 3.5 kg / cm² (increased pressure), then check the health of the fuel drain chain (insufficient drain):
     • clogging of pipelines, hoses and plum chain elements;
     • malfunction (leakage) fuel injectors;
   • If it is below 2.5 kg / cm² (increased pressure), then check the facilities of the chain of the fuel bay (insufficient bay):
     • leakage and clogging of pipelines and bay chain filters;
     • malfunction (coking or clogging) fuel injectors;
     • insufficient performance of the electrical space (fuel pump is faulty);
     • feed the fuel pressure regulator (the controller is faulty).

1. When installing the ignition key to the "Starter" position, the engine starts and stalls. FREQ parameter (crankshaft rotation speed) more than 400 rpm. The self-diagnosis of the block fixes the fault code 53.
   • If the engine is started only with partially pressed (8 ... 20% of the opening of the throttle) of the accelerator pedal, and the self-diagnosis of the block does not record the system fault codes (except for code 53, 54), then perform the prevention of the bypass channel or replace the additional air regulator.

Often there is a situation when they turn the key, the starter confidently twists his crankshaft, and the car cannot start. Some drive the engine until the battery sees, in vain hope: and suddenly grab. In fact, after two or three unsuccessful attempts should be accepted for troubleshooting.

1 Does not start the engine when the starter is running - possible breakdowns

When the starter twists, and the engine does not start, finding the cause is immediately difficult. It is necessary to search for a malfunction in sufficiently many places. Still still from the starter. Once again we turn the key and listen to the sounds that he publishes. From him should come from a characteristic even buzz of the electric motor without failures and nothing more. If you are heard clicks, hum and extraneous sounds, we are looking for a problem in the starter. With good condition, the motor is most often not started, because it does not flow fuel or it does not ignite.

If the fuel is served, with ignition, the starter is twist, but the motor will not start, we are looking for the reason in electrical equipment: check individual sections of electrocups and its elements. The reasons may be the simplest: blocked the fuse, there is no contact due to cliff or oxidation. Rarely, but there are damage to the electronic control unit. Sensors can be broken, which send erroneous signals to the ECU, and the incorrectly adjusts the fuel and air ratio, its flow into the engine.

It is possible a phenomenon when the engine is rags with a plant, it seems to start, but does not grab. The reason may be electromagnetic floors that interfere with the sensors correctly process the data and submit a signal to the ECU. The tip can create an electromagnetic starter field. If the crankshaft position sensor failures are present (DPKV), the engine will not be able to start. At the same time, fuel is fed normally, the crankshaft is clearly scrolled by the starter.

Faults when starting when the starter confidently scrolls the crankshaft, there are quite often and do not depend on the type of engine.

2 diesel - specific troubleshooting

The ignition of fuel in a gasoline and diesel engine is fundamentally different. The compression tact in the diesel engine occurs without fuel, it is injected at the very end of it when the temperature in the cylinder reaches 700 °. Fuel ignition occurs when contacting hot air. Surplus heat from the head is discharged by the cooling system. In order to inside the combustion chamber, the temperature required to ignite the fuel, the cold motor before starting is heated by incandescent candles.

If the cold diesel does not start, the search for the problem is starting with the candles. The starter can twist for a very long time, but with faulty candles, even at + 5 °, start the engine hard, not to mention frost. First check the help of the control unit. Connect the light bulb on the tire of the candles and the mass, turn the key. With a good unit, light bulb will turn around. Further turn the key to the original position, turn off the power bus and check the incandescent candles. One contact light bulb 21 W connect to the candle, the other to the battery plus. If the candle is working, the light burns brightly.

In any weather, diesel does not start if the fuel pump is delivered or the stuff valve is defective. Checking the light bulb - whether the power supply is supplied to the valve. If it is, removing and put it on the conductive wire. A good stuff valve makes clicks. If the valve order remains air in the fuel system. We unscrew the reversal of the nozzles or the cap, through which we will burst air. If there is a manual podachka of the fuel pump, supply voltage to the valve to open, and screw the diesel on until it flows instead of air. If a low pressure pump with an electric drive, turn it on.

If you fail, when the diesel fuel fails, we check the fuel filter: it may be superimposed by dirt or paraffin.

3 Gasoline Engine - Fuel Check

The engine does not start during defects in the fuel system: no gasoline does not flow, the starting device is defective. To check the fuel system of the carburetor engine, we carry out the following operations:

1. We sharply open the throttle valves of the carburetor, watching the gasoline injection (the air filter cover is removed in advance). If the fuel is sprayed, it is fed into the carburetor.
2. If the fuel is served, but it is impossible to start the cold engine, check the starting device. We close the air damper - it must completely overlap the primary chamber, and the throttle of the throttle is obtained by 0.8 mm. To verify the operation of the throttle damper, you will have to remove the carburetor.
3. When gasoline is not served accelerating pump, it is not in the carburetor. We manually pump, we start the engine.
4. We check the work of the fuel pump: remove the hose from the graduation and swing. After a few ridges should be gasoline.
5. If the gasoline could not rotate, check the fuel filter, the mesh in the sump of the carburetor. Dirty filter change, rinse mesh.
6. Isn't the fuel yet served? We disassemble the fuel pump and check the diaphragms. If they are torn, gasoline does not fall into the carburetor, but in the pallet, diluting the oil.

Oil should be replaced, flushing is not needed. We change the diaphragms, pump gasoline and start the motor.

On cars with an injector, the engine does not start, if the fuel cell does not work. Its health is determined by the buzz after the ignition is turned on. Sometimes the reason for the oxidized terminals or the fuse, but it happens, the pump burns. There may also be absent or being insufficient pressure in the ramp if gasoline got there. On the opposite of the fuel connected to it, the side under the cap is the valve. Press it - from there I should splash gasoline. If this has not happened, check the fuel filter, the benzonasus reducing valve (is located in the gas tank).

4 ignition - how to find and eliminate breakdown

If the fuel supply faults are eliminated, and the machine does not start, start checking the ignition. Unscrew the candles and check the formation of sparks. On the candle we wear the wire from the cover of the traver, the skirt touch the metal by car, and at this time the engine helper the engine twist. In a good candle, a strong spark of blue is noticeable. For an injection engine, the lack of spark speaks about the module malfunction, for carburetor - coil.

Injector module Check at home is impossible, and the coil is amenable to check. On old models, one cylindrical coil is installed, on modern - dual or monolithic module. The most advanced KZ, which are installed on each cylinder directly on candles without wires. Coils with wires are checked simply: pull out a central wire from the traver, bring to the metal metal to a distance of 5 mm and turn on the starter. Availability sparks speaks about health.

Often, the car refuses the rubber - burning contacts of the distributor of the distributor does not allow you to start the engine. If the rubber is contactless, perhaps broke the Hall sensor. This is not a characteristic fault - the sensors rarely fail. Among the most common tribe malfunctions:

• on the runner burned resistance;
• ruled the cover of the traver;
• the wires of the Hall sensor are torn off;
• trembling shaft beating through worn bearings.

The lid of the traver check the replacement: the car in experienced drivers is always equipped with a spare. Contactless ignition with a rubber has a switch that is responsible for stable sparking. A faulty switch may cause the engine that the engine does not start. Malfunction We detect the hand - the broken switch is very heated.

In cars with an electronic system, various sensors are often faced. The fault is fixed, and an error message appears on the panel, each of which is assigned the code. Often, ignition failures occur due to wiring when power is not served. With some malfunctions, the engine does not manage the engine. Block repair in a car service or change to a good one.

Malfunctions that are manifested at the time of engine start are quite common in the process of operation of the vehicle regardless of the type and features of the design of the installed power unit (gasoline, diesel, or motor, etc.). One of the frequent situations is that after turning on the ignition and turn the key in the lock to the start position, the starter turns normally, but the motor will not start.

A feature of the breakdown of this kind is a certain complexity of the localization of a malfunction. The fact is that much easier to look for the problem in the event that, for example, the starter makes a sound, but does not turn the engine, or, the fuel pump does not pump after turning on the ignition. In any case, the existing problem needs to be solved. Next, we intend to talk about why the motor may not start when the starter turns well.

Read in this article

The machine will not start with a normally working starter: Possible causes

Let's start with the fact that at the beginning of the check should make sure that the starter's performance. During his work, when trying to start the engine, there should be no clicks, hum and other extraneous sounds. A good starter should twist the motor with a characteristic buzz of an electric motor of the starter, and it is exactly, without skipping and failures. If the specified signs are seen during attempts to start the engine, then the fault is to search at the starter.

Making sure that the starter twists, and the engine does not start, you need to go to a detailed check of certain car systems. You should start with the diagnostics of the engine power system, as well as from checking the ignition system and some sensors in the electronic control system of the DVS. In other words, the motor with a good starter is most often not launched as a result of the fact that the cylinders do not receive fuel or fuel is not flammable for certain reasons.

Checking the fuel system

Causes of difficult starts of a cold engine. List of faults. What you need to check for diagnosing and more accurately defining the problem.

This directory covers typical faults of most types of passenger cars that can be diagnosed without applying instruments. It will help you quickly find the cause of the breakdown and proceed to repair.

To the list of characteristic features and possible causes of problems, it is desirable to add records from personal experience and experiences of others - then a solid database about the causes of car stamps and diagnostics will not provide problems.

Diagnostics - repairs repairs. No wonder in car services, the most experienced masters are prescribed by the receivers, because mistakes in the diagnosis and determination of repair volumes lead to financial losses of customers, an incorrect understanding of orders with mechanics and re-work. Proper definition of faults is available not only to professional mechanics, this is the result of knowledge in combination with the system approach. Diagnostics must be continuously learning. Do not rely on the technique, since diagnostic equipment cannot find the cause of the malfunction, it shows only its consequence. Start the diagnosis with the analysis of possible causes of malfunction. Check out the condition of the car, find out the client driving manner and car care methods. Look for the cause by relying on the facts.

When diagnosing faults, follow the following recommendations:

Apply the exclusion method, proceed from simple to complex, do not miss the obvious;

Finding out the cause of the malfunction, take action so that it does not happen again;

If the electrical network refuses due to a bad connection, check all other connections on the network so that they also fail;

If some kind of fuse often burns out, find out the reason, and not replace it automatically;

Remember that the failure of one detail may precede a breakdown of a more important node or poor system functioning.

Condensate on the candlelight after a long downtime of the car without operation.

Moisture on the distributor cover, high voltage wires and their tips (summer in the morning after a night with a temperature difference, dew or fog).

Harrow, frost or moisture on the cover of the distributor, high voltage wires and their tips (winter in the morning after a night with a temperature difference).

Water on the cover of the distributor, high voltage wires and their tips after overcoming deep pomp or fusion.

In the exhaust pipe stopper (ground after maneuver, a reverse move in a pit, a ditch or something else) or moisture (if the machine is in deep water).

Instead of the "Neutral" position instead.

The driver has forgotten to turn off its own fuel or current lock.

Fuse blocked.

Bad contact of the mass "Mass" from the engine to the body.

The wires in the launch circuit are broken or connected.

Battery terminals are weakened or corroded.

The battery is discharged or damaged (the headlights and wipers will not work).

Faulty anti-theft system (or other system) included in the ignition system circuit.

Starter gear stuck in the flywheel wedge.

Damaged traction starter relay.

Incorrect installation of the ignition.

Faulty ignition lock.

Faulty ignition coil.

Disordered system connections.

Candles are grilled or filled with fuel.

Invalid gap between candle electrodes.

Candles are clocked by Nagar.

There are cracks in candle insulators.

High voltage to the ignition candles is not supplied - high voltage wiring tips are loosened, wires are severely contaminated or insulated with their insulation.

The order of attachment of high voltage wiring to the ignition distributor cover contacts is broken.

The contacts are not blocked - the gap between the interrupter contacts is disturbed between the interrupter contacts, the textolite pad or the interrupter lever sleeve is worn.

There is no current through the contacts of the interrupter - the contacts are oxidized or burned, an overly large gap between the contacts or weakening the pressure springs.

Ignition distributor details are faulty.

The distributor is loosely fixed - the moment of ignition has begun.

Picks the capacitor (short circuit).

Wear, damage to the contact carbon or its hang in the ignition distributor sensor lid.

Current leakage through cracks or squeezes in the ignition distributor cover, through the naiga or moisture on the inner surface of the lid, through cracks or localar in the ignition distributor rotor.

Open in the primary winding of the ignition coil.

Open or closure on the "mass" of the secondary winding of the ignition coil.

Cutting wires between the ignition distributor and switch.

Wire opening connecting switch with switch or ignition coil.

Faulty switch.

Faulty contactless sensor.

Breakfast resistor in the ignition distributor rotor.

Cutting the wire connecting the power relay with the ignition module. Faulty power relays.

Faulty ignition module.

The controller is defective - does not produce pulses to the ignition module.

The crankshaft position sensor is defective, the installation is broken, or the wire connecting the sensor with the controller is broken.

Faulty electromagnetic valve.

The electromagnetic valve does not work in the carburetor gasoline when the ignition is turned on.

The poor mixture with a cold engine is not covered with an air damper.

Poor mixture - air seats, in addition to the diffuser of the carburetor.

A rich mixture with a hot engine is covered with an air damper.

Surplus gasoline in the intake manifold - pumping with sharp presses on the gas pedal.

Empty fuel tank.

The fuel does not reach the carburetor or injection nozzles - the fuel filter, tube or tank ventilation are clogged.

Focused fuel pump.

Water in fuel.

Steam plugs in the fuel line in hot weather.

Strong air filter pollution.

Too high fuel in the carburetor - re-enrollment of the mixture.

He fits the air damper.

The carburetor is deregulated.

The sprayers of the carburetor or injectors contaminated. Failing a gasoline vapor capture system.

Worn up the belt (or chain) of the actuator of gas distribution - a phase shot down.

Cutting the gear mounting key on the camshaft - the phase shot down.

The valve gaps are incorrectly adjusted.

The unsatisfactory condition of the power supply chains and control of ignition coils.

The unsatisfactory condition of the chains of the crankshaft position sensor wires and the serviceability of the sensor itself.

The probability of erroneous stroke of the wiring of the harness to the crankshaft position sensor.

Invalid mounted gap between the sensor end and the synchronization disk.

You need to know what the reason is when the car does not start, the starter turns, but does not grab. The reasons can be a lot - this is the problems of the ignition, fuel feed, startup (directly starter), batteries and wiring. And each breakdown has its own characteristics, sometimes they are difficult to reveal, but if you do it, you can conduct diagnostics without a special tool, exclusively for rumor. And you need to start such diagnostics from the simplest, and to finish more complex. As practice shows, very often the malfunction lies on the surface, you only need to look closely.

Cutting carburetor motor

If the starter twists, but the engine does not start on the carburetor motor, then there may be several reasons:

• clogging of the fuel filter (located in the subcontrol space);
• violation of the fuel pump;
• clogging of loopholes or mesh carburetor;
• violation of the carburetor - the level in the float chamber is incorrect, the idling valve is broken;
• air filter clogging.

The fuel filter is installed immediately before the pump, it should be examined for damage or the presence of blockages. Replace if necessary. If there is no possibility, turn it around its axis (if it is in the form of a cylinder).

Usually the lower half is clogged, the upper remains clean.

The nearest store will come to get there.

The pump may have the following faults:

1. Destruction of the membrane. Eliminated by installing a new bucket kit.
2. Destruction of the membrane refund spring.
3. Disruption of intake and exhaust valve. Very often, when heated, they are jammed, so you need to cool - put a wet cloth on the pump housing or pour it water.
4. Physical damage to the gas station housing.
5. Wash the cam actuator. In this case, there are two outputs - replace new or remove one of the gaskets under the pump.

Remkomplekts for fuel pumps have a relatively low cost. And the replacement of all components occurs fairly quickly, but their quality is not very good, therefore the service life is sometimes limited to even a few days. Much better to purchase a product assembly and install on the car. At least two years, the pump will work, and if there is a defect in it, there is a guarantee.

Cleaning of loans is performed by completely disassembling the carburetor. But if there is no such possibility, you can snatch a little. Change places of the second and third armor barrel and try to start the engine. If there is a blockage, he will leave. Sometimes come out of the engagement of the needle and float. Then the motor starts, but can stall at any time. But it happens that it is not possible to run it. Electrodes of candles at the same time dry, camera float too. The input is installed grid for cleaning. When using poor-quality fuel, it quickly clogs. It is sometimes necessary to remove it with the help of a toothbrush from pollution.

But if the starter does not twist the engine at all, then the problem is clearly not in the fuel system.

And one more node that affects the operation of the carburetor engine is an idling valve. If its jacker is clogged or burned out the winding, nutrition broke out, then it is necessary to carry out the appropriate repair. For this, the first thing is necessary to check the presence of voltage on the power wire (when the ignition is on). If there is, then to experience the operation of the valve - when applying does not, the voltage must be heard the characteristic click. If it is not, there is a break of the winding. If there is, check the fatter. Unscrew the valve and blow the seat and holes in the jaw. View, does it prevent anything to move with a needle.

Injection Injection Malfunctions

Everything is more complicated here, as anything can break through. But if the starter twists, and the engine does not start, you need to watch all sensors and actuators included in the system of the system. Main faults:

1. Disabled electric gas station leads to the fact that pressure is not formed in the fuel ramp. It does not hear the characteristic hum of the motor when the ignition is turned on. The electric motor may not work because of the failure of the windings or the fuse, the electromagnetic relay, which are in the power circuit.
2. If the gas station works constantly, without stopping, the starter twists and does not start the engine, then you need to check the integrity of the check valve (overpressure) installed in the ramp. The same symptom and in the case of clogging the filter on the gas station body.
3. Disruption of fuel injectors. Typically, this clogging occurs due to the use of low-quality fuel. At the same time, the starter twists, the machine does not start, as the fuel-air mixture is either at all falls into the combustion chambers, or it is extremely small. The problem of washing nozzles under high pressure is solved.
4. Faults of the electronic control unit, sensors. When the sensor fails, the signal is served on the ECU, which generates the corresponding fault error code and gives it to the onboard computer panel or diagnostic scanner.

Breakdown in electrical wiring

The most common malfunction from most old cars. On any car there are two power sources - battery and generator. Akb is required to start the engine. After all electrical equipment, it works at the expense of both sources. And the generator supports the charge of the battery at the proper level. There may be the following breakdowns in electrical equipment:

1. The failure of one or more fuses. If the voltage does not come to vital nodes - sensors, computer, gas station, the engine will not start.
2. Cliffs in the supply chain nozzles, control unit, sensors and actuators.
3. Low battery charge - while turning on the starter, crackle or clicks are heard. The feeling that the retractor relay cannot work. But why the starter twists slowly, you can understand by checking the battery charge and the quality of the mass of mass wires.
4. The presence of secret anti-theft. Some motorists install the hidden buttons that turn off the power supply of the pump or the computer, switch (on carburetor engines). Similarly, the alarm is blocking the operation of the car systems and prevent launch. It is necessary to carefully check the integrity of the security system.

It is very difficult to find a malfunction in the wiring if the break is somewhere in the harness. Therefore, it is better to turn to an experienced electrician who has not only tools, but also the experience of finding such faults.

In the ignition system, the following breakdowns may occur:

1. The failure of the switch on the carburetor motors. The crankshaft rotates, but the engine does not start, as there is no spark on the electrodes of candles.
2. The destruction of the coil (coils if there are several of them) ignition.
3. Welcome to the ignition module on injection engines.
4. Disruption of the work of the ECU.
5. The failure of the ignition distributor on carburetor engines. Destruction of the cover of the traver, runner, lounge sensor or wiring.

Starter malfunctions

Here you can select the following breakdowns:

1. The failure of the retractor relay. In this case, the starter does not turn at all, even the click is not heard.
2. Clip in the winding of the stator or rotor. You can diagnose after full disassembly. In this case, the click of the retractor is heard, but the rotation does not occur.
3. A similar symptom and in case of failure of brushes, rotor jamming. Only at the same time there will be an excessive heating of the stator body.
4. If the starter rotates with an incredibly high speed, then we can conclude about the fault of the Bendix or the wint of the flywheel. In the first case there will be no extraneous sounds, the rotor is simply rotated and does not grab the crankshaft. The reason lies in the failed overtaking clutch. In the second case, sometimes the starter will grasp, the crumpled and crunch will come. This Bindix teeth cling to the weden of the flywheel.
5. And another malfunction is the destruction of the bushings and tires. Check the mass, due to bad contact, the feeling will occur, as if the battery is discharged. In this case, the car does not start, the starter twists very slowly. The lamps in the dashboard are lit either normally or as in the case of a served battery.

Some breakdowns are eliminated quickly. But when replacing the wedge, the flywheel will have to dismantle the gearbox. And it does not depend on the brand and model of the car.

Malfunctions of the gas distribution mechanism

On cars of the classic series VAZ 2101-2107, the valve system is very arrogant, requires constant attention and adjustment. The frequency of checking the gaps of 15,000 km of run. There are no such problems on newer front-wheel drive cars. And if there is a system of hydrocompensators, the driver will never carry out the driver. But in the classics, the engine may not start if the gaps are installed incorrectly. Gas distribution cycles are violated and ignition occurs at open valves. It is incorrectly, the engine will not work in this mode.

The circuit or belt of the gas distribution mechanism is an infrequent breakdown, but it happens.

And if the belt is changed - this is a matter of ten minutes, then with a chain everything is more complicated. But not all belts are rushing without consequences, valves begged on some engines. And it will take dismantling the head of the cylinder block, installing and trigging new valves. A sign of what the timing belt occurred is too rapid rotation of the crankshaft starter. That is, the entire system of startup works, but the distribution shafts do not rotate. It is impossible to start without work.

Diesel engines

The share of passenger transport with diesel engines is quite small. The reason for this is the complexity of the engine and its systems. Most of the breakdowns that are found on gasoline engines are available in diesel. This clogging of nozzles, filters, failure of the engine control system. But there are also specific breakdowns that are associated with such a type of engines. If low-quality fuel is used, it can freeze in a large frost. This will lead to the impossibility of running.

One of the main components of the power supply system is a high pressure pump.

Its incorrect work affects the engine launch. DIY repair of such a mechanism is sometimes impossible, it is better to refer to the mechanics. Possible failure of incandescent candles. In this case, the crankshaft will rotate, all systems are triggered, and the machine will not start. Therefore, before sining on the pump, it is necessary to digitize their work. But great harm brings air. If there is a sacrifice to its highway or pump, it is necessary to eliminate the problem. In some cases, the entire power supply system will be required.