Engine temperature above Mazda 6 GG. What should be the operating temperature of the engine. Working thermal mode

Many motorists are wondering what should be optimal, that is, the operating temperature of the engine. The question is not unambiguous and here much depends on its design features. So for any person, the normal temperature is 36.6 degrees, providing its owner a healthy existence when all life processes proceed without any deviations. So for automotive engines there is a calculated temperature at which they are able to work stably, with a complete efficiency, in economy mode for a long time.

Why is the working heating range is considered optimal?

The process of combustion of the fuel-air mixture in the cylinders is accompanied by the release of a large amount of heat, since the temperature in the combustion chamber is about 2000 degrees and above. The task of the cooling system includes maintaining the optimal thermal regime in the range of 80-90 degrees. For some types of power settings, the temperature is up to 110 degrees, more often on air-cooled motors.

With optimal temperature mode, the cylinders filling, start and reliable operation of the car occurs.

Heat

Structurally in the engine provides heat gaps when heating its parts when they are expanded. When heated over the permissible value, there is a violation of the gaps, which causes intensive wear, jackets and various damage. In addition, there is a decrease in capacity due to the deterioration of cylinders, as well as the appearance of detonation and fuel and self-ignition.

In the photo - check of valve thermal gaps

The main reasons for increasing the temperature of the power plant:

The stretch of the additional mechanisms is weakened or breaking;

Depressurization of the cooling system.

Operating temperature is not recruited

Incomplete is also undesirable. The surface of the cylinders is not warmed and the fuel in contact with the cold walls condenses and falls into the crankcase, the dilution of the oil there is, which leads to intensive wear as CPG and all pairs of friction. The main, these are neck crankshaft and liners, as well as the camshaft bed and the shaft itself, as well as the intermediate (piglet) and balance shafts, etc.

Plus, when working on an immentable motor, it is especially true in winter (a large amount of condensate on the inner surfaces of the CPG) when traveling for short distances, the additives in oil practically do not work, without fulfilling the role of protection.

In addition, the undoamed more thickened and is no longer fully fed to the friction parameters, causing their wear on the cylinder walls, plus the fuel consumption increases and the power of the power plant falls.

Causes of low temperature:

The thermostat valve hangs in the open position;

Frequent trips for short distances;

The thermostat or temperature sensor is more cold than prescribed by the manufacturer.

Working thermal mode

When the thermal regime is in a given working range, all processes proceed without any deviations, the motor does not threaten anything and only its natural wear occurs.

Engine Types and Temperature Mode

There are low and high-affiliated, as well as "cold" and "hot" types of power units, where the working processes of combustion of fuel proceed by different laws.

The temperature response the thermostat valve when the fluid gets able to circulate over a large circle (for cooling after the temperature of the temperature from the water jacket), actually it will be the optimal temperature.

In this case, the heating parameters will be different, which directly depends on the target of the factory thermostat and the temperature sensor for the operation of the electric fan, that is, what installed the manufacturer on the conveyor.

So for the engines of even one brand of the car, for example, the models of the VAZ, where the coolant heat heating is varied for carburetor and injection models. Here, again, it all depends on the calibration of the thermostat provided by the developers and on the type of cooling system.

Features of cooling systems and their effect on temperature regime

Liquid cooling systems are divided into two types:

Open;
Closed (hermetic).

The open-type system is directly communicated with the outside air, that is, the air can constantly come to the system and leave it in the form of steam. The boiling point of the coolant is 100 degrees.

The closed system has a connection with the atmosphere through a special valve, mounted into the radiator tube or the expansion tank cover. The release of hot air and steam occurs only with a strong increase in the pressure in the system.

In the photo - the cooling system of a closed type

In the system of closed type, significantly above the pressure and the booster temperature of the antifreeze, which is about 110-120 degrees Celsius.

The minus of the closed system is a sharp increase in the heating of the motor in case of depressurization of the system and the valve failure in the lid of the expansion tank. This is caused by the fact that the system is under high pressure and in case of depressurization, most of the fluid will immediately be thrown out.

If the valves malfunction in the tank lid, the liquid begins to boil, which also leads to a critical motor with subsequent complex and expensive repairs.

Engine ecology and resource

When, in favor of the ecology standards, they began to raise the heat mode of the engine, for complete combustion of fuel, it turned out that other oils needed, since there was no oil, it simply cannot provide full-fledged protection at high temperatures. This has adversely affected the resource of power plants, not designed to work in such temperature modes.

Favorable thermal regime

The optimal thermal regime within 85-90 degrees provides fuel economy and minimal wear of parts in various conditions and modes of operation.
To maintain the cooling system, always in working condition, we recommend periodically to undergo its diagnostics for the smooth operation of your car.

Mazda 6 (2008+). Tosol boils in an expansion tank

1. Low antifreeze. The cooling system not filled to the desired level does not cope with its task, so the temperature exceeds the critical and fluid boils.

2. Cleaning the cooling fan. Its function lies in the forced cooling of the elements of the system of the same name and liquid. It is clear that if the fan does not turn on, the temperature will not be descended and it may end the antifreeze liquid. Especially this situation is critical for the warm season.

3. Availability of air traffic jam. The main cause of its appearance is to deploy the cooling system. As a result, there are several factors harmful to it. In particular, pressure drops, which means that the boiling point of antifreeze is reduced. Further, with long-term location of the air in the system, the inhibitors included in the Tosola are deteriorating, and do not perform their protective function. And finally, the level of coolant falls. This has already been mentioned earlier.

4. Low cooling fluid quality. It is the most common problem of drivers who "saved" on Toslaz. The fact is that poor-quality Tosol, bought from a unknown manufacturer at a low price, is diluted with water. And since the water boiling point is lower than that of Tosola means that the risk of boiling appears. Especially often it happens when the engine is stopped.

5. Gasket of the head of the cylinder block. The running gasket also often becomes the cause of tosol boiling, as it disrupts the tightness of the cooling system. To determine its malfunction, you can start the motor and ask for an assistant to slowly touch the load. If air bubbles appear in the tank, then this is a clear sign of a gasket malfunction that can only be replaced. Also, the residues of the coolant in the exhaust of the car can also be observed. The level of antifreeze, while significantly declining.

6. Other cooling system problems. These include: water pump from another manufacturer, increased contamination of the radiator and the absence of a normal air flow. The last malfunction is often found at the fans installed on the water pump. If you use such a fan without special casing, then it will be blown up with hot air, which is assembled from the workpiece. Therefore, the use of casing on such a fan is mandatory.
In the case of a water pump from another manufacturer, its blades may be noticeably less than the norm, which is why there is a lack of pressure in the system. It needs to be simply replaced, however, the diagnosis of such a malfunction is quite problematic.

7. Thermostat malfunction. The thermostat at a temperature, approximately 90 degrees opens the valve and "skips" the coolant into a large circle of cooling system. It happens that the valve simply does not open and the liquid moves only in a small circle, which becomes the cause of boiling. Diagnosis of such a malfunction is measured by the temperature of the large circle nozzles. If they are cold, the fault really touched the thermostat and should be replaced.

8. Tosol must be changed. This is the safest cause of boiling. The fact is that Tosol has a property to change its chemical composition during long-term operation, which certainly leads to a change in the temperature of its boiling, as well as the deterioration of its cooling properties. In this case, it just needs to be replaced. Non-quality antifreeze. If low-quality toosol is flooded in the car, that is, a liquid that does not meet the necessary requirements, which means that the probability that the radiator will boil. In particular, we are talking about the fact that the fake coolant is often boiling at temperatures below + 100 ° C.

9. Faulty radiator. The function of this node is to cool the antifreeze and maintain the cooling system in the working condition. However, it can get mechanical damage or simply score from the inside or outside.

10. Pump breakdown (centrifugal pump). Since the task of this mechanism is to pump the coolant, then when it fails, its circulation is terminated, and the volume of fluid that is in close proximity to the engine, starts to heat themselves and, as a result, boils.

11. Temperature sensor breakdown. Everything is simple here. This node has not transferred the corresponding commands to the thermostat and / or the fan. They did not turn on and the cooling system and the radiator boiled.

12. Foaming antifreeze. This may occur for various reasons. For example, the low quality of the coolant, mixing of incompatible antifreezes, the use of inappropriate for the Tosol machine, damage to the gasket of the cylinder block, which is where the air in the cooling system occurs, and, as a result, its chemical reaction with coolant to the formation of foam.

13. Depressurization of the tank cover. The problem can be both in the failure of the safety-trigger valve and the depressurization of the cover of the lid. Moreover, it concerns both the lid of the expansion tank and the radiator lid. Because of this, the pressure in the cooling system is compared with atmospheric, and therefore the boiling point of antifreeze decreases.

What to do if the engine overheated

To understand that the engine overheating has come, look at the coolant temperature pointer. If its temperature exceeds the norm, then it is necessary to immediately dwell on the side of the side and drown out the engine, turn on the alarm and set the emergency stop sign. By the way, it is worth noting that some engines can continue their work after turning off the ignition. This mode is an emergency, therefore, quickly turn on the first gear, squeeze the brake and dramatically release the clutch pedal. Such action negatively affects the clutch disk, but it will save you from breakdown in the engine.

Open the car hood, so the engine is cooled much faster. On this, the first help ends with a boiling engine. Further car enthusiasts allow gross mistakes.

First, in no case cannot be opened with a radiator cork or expansion tank. Since boiling occurs in the cylinder block, the open tank can provoke a sufficiently powerful emission of boiling fluid outwards, which inevitably leads to the burns and face burns.

Secondly, do not water the hot engine cold water. The temperature difference almost always leads to the fact that the block of cylinders can crack and then expensive repair can not be avoided.

Do not take any action until the boil stops. Only after that you can take a rag and carefully open the lid of the expansion tank, throwing off, while the pressure remains in the system. After that, fill the missing amount of coolant into the tank, while trying, while not to get to the cylinder block or its head.

Run the car engine and follow the change in the temperature of the coolant. If it rises fast enough, then further movement to the maintenance station or garage is possible only on the cable. If slowly, you can get to the garage or one hundred on my own, while trying not to make big revolutions and do not load the engine.

Observing these uncomplicated rules, you can avoid costly engine repair and maintain your health when working with hot cooling elements.

If there is something wrong with Mazda 6, then "Check-engene" does not go out, or it lights up again after a while. He may flash, which unequivocally speaks of a serious malfunction. This indicator will not inform the Mazda owner exactly what is the problem, it draws attention to the fact that the diagnosis of the engine Mazda 6 is required.

Since all foreign cars, not excluding Mazda 6, tightly tied to electronics, A huge number of sensors follow the operation of the car. Therefore, the diagnosis of the Mazda engine 6 is by and large, checking the most important node of the machine, with the exception of the suspension, which is verified by mechanical path.

There are a large number of specialized equipment for the diagnosis of engine Mazda 6. There are compact and fairly universal scanners, which can afford not only professionals. But there are cases when ordinary portable scanners do not identify malfunctions in the Mazda 6 engine, then the diagnostics need to be carried out solely licensed software and the Mazda scanner.

Mazda diagnostic scanner shows:

• The value of the opening of the throttle percentage;
• Engine turnover in rpm;
• Mazda engine temperature 6;
• Voltage in the onboard network Mazda 6;
• Air temperature absorbed into the engine;
• Mazda's ignition advance angle 6;
• The fuel injection is nozzle. It is displayed in Miliseconds;
• Indications of air flow sensor MAZDA 6;
• The testimony of the oxygen sensor Mazda 6;

1. To diagnose the engine Mazda 6, first of all, the subcontrol space is visually inspected. On a good engine, there should be no leaks of technical fluids, whether it is oil, coolant, brake. In general, it is important to periodically purify the engine Mazda 6 from dust, sand, dirt, it is necessary not only for aesthetics, but also for a normal heat dissipation!

2. Check the level and condition of the oil in the engine Mazda 6, the second test step. To do this, you need to pull the dipstick, and also look at the oil by unscrewing the bay lid. If the oil is black, and even worse, black and thick, it indicates that the oil has changed long ago.

If there is a white emulsion on the filling lid or it can be seen how oil is foaming, it can talk about water from or coolant into oil.

3. Checking Mazda's ignition candles 6. Remove all the candles from the engine, they can be checked by one. They should be dry. If the candles are covered with a minor layer of yellowish or light brown Nagar, it is not worried about, such a nagar is quite normal and permissible phenomenon, does not affect the work.

If there are traces of liquid oil on Mazda Candle 6, then the piston rings or oil-challenge caps are likely to be replaced. Black Nagar testifies to the re-entered fuel mixture. The reason is the wrong operation of the fuel system Mazda, or too clogged air filter. The main symptom will be increased fuel consumption.

Red raids on Mazda 6 candles is formed due to poor-quality gasoline, which contains a large number of metals particles (for example, a manganese, which increases the octane number of fuel). Such a flare spends the current well, which means with a significant layer of this plaque, the current will go on it without forming a spark.

4. Mazda ignition coil 6 fails. Most often it happens due to old age, insulation is damaged and a closure occurs. Change the coils are better in accordance with the rules mileage. But there is a breakdown cause bad candles or punched high-voltage wires. To check the Mazda coil, it must be removed.

After removal, you need to make sure in the integrity of the insulation, there should be no black spots or cracks. Further, the multimeter should go into the move, if the coil burned, the device will show the maximum possible value. It is not worth checking the Mazda coil 6 by the grandfather method for the presence of a spark between the candles and a metal part of the car. This method takes place in old cars, while on Mazda 6, due to such manipulations, it can not only burn the coil, but also the entire electric car.

5. Is it possible to diagnose the engine malfunction for the Mazda exhaust pipe 6? The exhaust can tell a lot about the state of the engine. From a good car in the warm season, there should be no thick or nasal smoke at all.

If the white smoke is visible, it may indicate a burned gasket or not tightness in the Mazda cooling system 6. If smoke is black, then, at best, these are problems due to a rejuvenated fuel mixture. At worst - problems with a piston group.

If smoke has a bluish shade, this suggests that the engine Mazda 6 consumes oil. At best, it will be necessary to replace the oil-changing caps, at worst - repair of the piston group. All this GAR is strongly clogged and reduces the life of the Mazda 6 catalyst, which does not cope with the purification of such impurities.

6. Diagnosis of engine Mazda 6 by sound. The sound is a gap, which is exactly what is said in the theory of mechanics. There are gaps in almost all moving connections. In this small gap, there is an oil film that does not allow the items to touch. But over time, the gap expands, the oil film can no longer be distributed evenly, the details of the MAZDA motor engine are friction, as a result, it begins very intense wear.

Each node in the engine Mazda 6 is characterized by a certain sound:

• Ringing, frequent sound, audible on all engine speed, indicates the need to adjust the valves;
• A smooth knock, which does not depend on the revolutions caused by the valve distribution mechanism, which indicates the wear of its elements;
• A distinct short knock, increasing on high revs, warns about the imminent end of the connecting rod insert.

7. Diagnostics of the Mazda Engine Cooling System 6. With the proper operation of the cooling system and sufficient heat siform, after the start of the engine, the liquid circulates only in a small circle through the stove radiator, which contributes to rapid warming as the engine itself and the Mazda 6 in the cold season.

When the normal operating temperature of the engine Mazda 6 (about 60-80 degrees) is achieved, the valve on a large circle is opened, i.e. The liquid partially flows into the radiator, where it is warm through it. If the critical mark is reached at 100 degrees, the Mazda thermostat 6 opens to the whole, and the entire volume of the fluid passes through the radiator.

At the same time, the Mazda radiator fan 6 is included, it contributes to the best blowing out of hot air between the coolant cells. Overheating can output the engine and will need expensive repairs.

8. Typical Mazda Cooling System Faults 6. If the fan does not work when the critical temperature is reached, then first it is necessary to check the fuse, then the fan of Mazda 6 itself is examined and the integrity of the wires to it itself. But the problem may be global, the temperature sensor (thermostat) failed.

The performance of the Mazda 6 thermostat is checked as follows: the motor is pre-warmed, the hand is applied to the bottom of the thermostat, if it is hot, it means well.

More serious problems may arise: the Mazda Radiator 6 will arise, to flow or clog the radiator of the Mazda 6, break the valve in the lid of the filler neck. If the problems arose after replacing the coolant, then most likely the air traffic jam.