Doesn't Toyota Corolla? Time to look under the cat. Why the car Toyota Corolla Toyota Corolla E120 does not start

the main / KPP

Yours technical equipment It should be impeccable - after all, the time you have, there are the same money that we hope you also have. Do not lose any other. If there is a disappearance of a tie or a library, a trouser who has lost the iron can cause a breakdown of a business meeting, then talking about a car that does not want to start an hour before the appointed negotiations.

Early in the morning, the freshly brightened and full of great plans (a child - to school, a wife - in a hairdresser, and he himself - to joke a labor penny), you jump into the car, "key to start" and ... what a damn ... still time. More ... Nervous manipulations with the key and pedals do not bring success. The day is spoiled from the very beginning. Plans and mood - a cat under the tail.

Calm down. It is not necessary to rush under the English costume under the hood and, sinking the tie oil mud, try to diagnose. In 5 minutes, most likely, do not cure. Take another car, and leave the treatment of a friend to the evening. And better instruct his doctors with a good reputation, especially if you have a dear car, and you are not special. So it will be cheaper. Well, if your friend is well acquainted and you consider yourself a healer - Well, try yourself, if not too lazy to get dirty or another output.

To the formulation of the diagnosis we must start quietly

Examine mentally symptoms. First - does the starter twist? And if so, how much is cheerful? You already know the answer - recall what happened at the first attempts to start the car. If you do not remember - try again.

If the starter does not twist at all and does not even click the traction relay when inclusion ignition, It is either faulty (you can close the hood and follow the advice given above: "Take another machine ..."), or trouble with the battery - turned off or sat down. Only in rare models, the starter power supply chain can be protected by a fuse - the amper of the AMPE is 300 - it is easy to find it, especially if you know where it is located in advance. If the battery is to blame, then all electrical equipment does not work. The simplest and easiest case - flew or contaminated one of the terminals, but the battery is in order. Tighten the fastenings of the terminals on it and at the starter (if any). If it turns out that the battery completely sat down (they forgot to turn off the headlights on the night), you can still leave. But with an extreme help. Here, as they say, options are possible. You can try to start with a shock, from a slide or from a tug. Do not try to bypass underwater stones: a car with an automatic box or electronic fuel injection (if there is an electric fuel pump) with these ways it will not be possible to start. We'll have to bite the neighbor. True, some machines may damage the computer (read the instructions for the machine). If the starter is twist, but sluggish (it happens in summer, in winter it is a subject of a separate conversation), most likely the battery is almost completely discharged. It will be visible on the weak light of the headlight or a sick signal. In this case, the above assistance options come into effect.

If the starter turns cheerfully, and the engine does not respond to attempts to start it, boldly exclude from further reflections all connected with the battery. Patya on the ignition system or fuel supply, you will not be mistaken. When making a diagnosis and treatment of each of them, a systematic approach is required. Start better from ignition - there are more often malfunctions. Especially in crude weather.

From the spark will marry ...

So, you need to look for a spark. Your car can be equipped with a classic (simplest) contact system Ignition, rather complicated electronic contactless or some combined option. In any case, the system consists of three parts. Part One is low-voltage (interrupter contacts in a classic system or a special sensor in the electronic, plus a box with an electronic stuffing forming a spark). Part Two is an increase in the transformer, referred to in the world of the ignition coil. Part Three - high-voltage (mechanical or electronic distributor and wires, for which the high voltage current is summed up to the candles). And naturally, the candles themselves. The check of all this farm must be carried out in stages and it is better to start from the end.

Stage First. High voltage part Systems. Check if there is a spark on the central wire - this is the one that connects the coil with the distributor. The tip of the wire must be removed from the distributor cover, closer to any part that has a good contact with the mass of the car (it is painted or not, it does not matter), and the gap of 5-7 mm remains between the tip and the selected part.

If the ignition of your machine is electronic, it is necessary to mount the wire especially reliably - if it falls on the ground, the electronics will instantly order for a long time. For the same reason, it is impossible to chirp the wire on the body. Do not advise him by hand either, not even with your own - it will hit the current.

Stage second. Turn the engine starter. At the same time, see what happens on the tip of the wire. Two options are possible. A more favorable is a spark. Powerful, accompanied by loud-clicking. This significantly narrows the field of further searches.

First of all, you need to remove the distributor cover. Under it can be raw and dirty. According to such a "conductor," the spark is willingly slipping anywhere, but not there, where it is necessary. Wash out, clean and dry. At the same time, it is harmful to clean the contacts of the distributor, for example, a shallow eye. Inspect the so-called "runner". If you find a dark trail of the electrical breakdown on it or on the distributor cover, the part will have to change.

The most respectful way to check the wires from the distributor to the candles. Wires and their tips should be dry and clean. If with them, in your opinion, everything is in order, you can put the lid in place, restore the connections and try to start the engine. If the fault was burned under the lid - the engine will start or, in the worst case, at least start sneezing. The symptom is also favorable - you are on the right track. True, you will have to turn, clean and dry the candles - in trying to start the engine you poured them with gasoline. If the engine does not even sneeze, the candles still have to turn, clean and check. Simply, if there is a spare kit.

If you have already reached the step of turning the candles, it is possible to be quite effective (and effectively) to check the entire ignition system as a whole. Connecting to twisted candles high voltage wires, Collect the candles in a bundle, like carrots, and wrap directly on their threaded part with a naked soft wire. Make sure the wire has contact with each candle, but does not concern the central electrodes. Fluent wire end connect with mass. By placing a beam of candles in a convenient place to observe the location, screw the engine starter. At the same time, there should be funny sparks between the electrodes of candles in turn (in accordance with the order of cylinders). If so, then the whole ignition system is in order. The sound of the engine will be very unusual - do not be scared, because it spins with twisted candles. Do not twist for a long time. Worse, if at the second stage of checking there is another option: the sparks between the central wire and the "case" is not. So it's not in high-voltage chains. Further search will be more complicated, appreciate your time and desire. If both are available, proceed to the third stage. Check if the voltage is supplied to the ignition coil. It is easy to make a tester, and if it is not, you can use a rotor light bulb. True, you will need a pair of wires to connect it to the coil. In the classic ignition system, connect the light bulb between the mass and the input of the primary winding.

In the third stage, As usual, two options are also possible: the voltage to the coil is either served or not. If it is served, the coil is to blame - a breakdown or short circuit, which, however, it happens extremely rarely. The coil will have to change. It is more likely to be bad contact in the mounting of the wires to the coil. Or the same wet dirt, according to which the spark bucks not known where. Sometimes the coil is cleaned to the brilliance, but under it the invisible very narrow strip of dirt is preserved - a good conductor.

If, at the third stage, you were convinced that the coil voltage is not served - the electronics or contacts and contacts and unreliable connections in the low-voltage part of the ignition system are to blame. With electronics (switch and, less often, sensor in the distributor housing) you can not cope - for their diagnostics you need special equipment. It is possible for you to pull the sensor connector on the dispenser housing - suddenly helps. If you have a car with a classic ignition contact system, you can find further.

Remove the cover from the distributor and inspect the contacts of the interrupter - they can oxidize, especially if the car stood for some time without movement. Contacts need to be carefully cleaned with a thin eyelet or special nadfyl.

Hold the cleaned contacts so that they are closed, they swallowed. The voltage on them is only 12 volts, so it is possible to pull without knowlessly. If the cleaning did not help and the coil voltage is still not fed, we once again advise you to finish the attempts to resuscitate the car, since the difficulty will begin.

If the voltage appeared (when moving the contacts, the lamp flashes), restore all the developed and disassembled, start the car and, maybe still will have time to do. If it does not start, but at least sneezes - turn out the candles and ... (see).

Do not press the floor - it will not help

It may turn out that the entire ignition system was checked, everything is in order, and the engine, even though you are crazy, does not start. So, problems with another of the previously mentioned systems - power system, t. e. Fuel supply to the engine.

If you have an injection machine ( injector system Feed) Fuel - Do not touch it (to the system). You can only come to the conclusion that it was broken by it: there is a spark that fuel is suitable - it means she is rim. Treatment only in the hospital. At home and kustareys, it is useless to repair it and even harmful.

In the usual carburetor Engine fuel system Simply - tank, gas station, a set of pipelines and a carburetor. Here you can smooth yourself. First of all, you need to make sure that gasoline enters the carburetor. Disconnect the hose from the carburetor and click on the manual fuel swap lever. If a rather powerful jet of gasoline scored - everything is fine, it's time to go to the carburetor. It happens that gasoline is applied to the carburetor properly, but for some reason it does not come. If there is time and desire, remove air filterAfter that, ask someone to sharply press the accelerator pedal. Or you yourself dramatically pull the drive cable throttle valve. At the same time, look at the carburetor from above (the air damper is open, otherwise you will not see anything): If the gasoline strika does not appear in the first diffuser - it means that there is no it in the float chamber. There is no it there because the needle of the valve (it happens very often) is completely clogged with a fuel filter in the carburetor - it is located in front of the float chamber. Or zepers clouded. The filter is purified by purging, however, in the absence of the necessary skills, it is better not to bind to the carburetious insides at all, to deal with the healing of the needle valve, clogging of loopholes and other subtleties - let it make specialists.

If the trickle is in the diffuser, pay attention to the launching device of the carburetor - it is quite often fail. On foreign cars starting from about the 70s, applied automatic control air damper. The device without your participation, depending on the engine temperature, closes or opens the flap as far as it is necessary, enriching the mixture when the engine starts. If this automation works, you can try manual manipulations with air damper, but there are a lot of options and there are no universal councils. Before starting manipulations, connect and secure the previously disconnected fuel hose. Air filter can not be installed yet. If it starts, let the engine warm up and with God (after returning the air filter to the place) .. if when checking the fuel supply by a fuel pump, it turns out that gasoline from the hose does not go or the trickle is very fluid, the reason should be sought in the closed pipelines, the fuel filter or fuel filter The fuel tube itself - you can safely demonstrate your masterness, pumping the benzins of the tire pump in the direction, inverse the movement of gasoline, t. e. From the carburetor to Baku. In the tank should be heard the ardor, bullous sounds.

With filter thin cleaning Fuel is simple. Although almost all modern models, it is made in a transparent building, the degree of contamination is impossible to visually determine. The dirty filter will allow you to start the engine, but will not allow you to go normally. If it is completely clogged - the engine does not start. The most efficient check: Remove the filter and, if there is no new, temporarily replace it with a suitable tube, for example, the ballpoint housings are better transparent - it can be seen how gasoline flows. Do not attempt to clean the filter - a walled (or missed) case does not understand.

If you came to the conclusion that your car does not work the fuel pump, and there is no spare on hand - "Take another car ...".

Rare, but the most unpleasant diagnosis we left at last. If the starter works fine, you have already spent a bunch of time and made sure that ignition and food in complete orderAnd the car, however, does not start - it is worth considering the camshaft drive belt. However, decide for yourself, this check can be carried out at the beginning, especially if the engine has already passed more than 60 thousand. The complexity is that we will have to remove or at least partially bend the top of the closing belt of plastic casing. It is possible that the belt was cut off the teeth - in the belts, like people, teeth are lost from old age. In this case, the camshaft does not rotate and the engine will not work. It is clear that a toothless belt requires replacement (those who have a car with a chain drive camshaft, this trouble is not threatened). The belt replacement procedure is not complicated, but troublesome. Carried out in the hospital. Well, if everything limits the replacement of only the belt, and not bent valves or the entire block of the block - it also happens.

Smaller fucking

It is worth saying a few words about the battery. Since on most modern cars, it is maintenance free, it makes no sense to give here instructions for use. We will give only a few additional advice, how long to keep the battery viable. Do not get carried away with your machine with additional energy consumers. The fact that in the energy balance of the machine is provided for a defined stock that allows you to connect to two-three "thugs", does not mean that you can hang six clicksons for the car and ten foglights - have a sense of measure. In addition, if you connect the unforeseen Tsatski yourself, the likelihood of insulation damage is great. And in general, as practice shows, any, even the most qualified operational intervention in the wiring of the car sooner or later makes itself felt. Trouble.

If your battery breathes to incense, try not to kick the engine during cutting stops in the city. Nothing raises the battery as a frequent use of the starter.

And the last (this applies not only to the battery, but also the entire electrical equipment in general). Remember: all terminals, contacts, wire tips should be dry and clean and well to lay down to "destinations". Dirty, grilled insulation sooner or later makes its way, and the burning and oxidation of any contact surface May serve as the only (and sufficient) cause of the ignition system failure. Or fire.

This can be stopped. The meticulous car enthusiasts undoubtedly noticed at some superficialness of our tips. We admit, we intentionally do not want to go deep into the debrist. In order not to provoke you to self-medication - it does not lead to good. Understanding the nature of pain at the bottom of the belly on the right does not mean that you yourself must delete your appendix. But you need to describe the doctor's doctor's symptoms for sure. Very helps treatment.

Your technical equipment should be impeccable - after all, the time you have, there are the same money that, we hope you also have. Do not lose any other. If there is a disappearance of a tie or a library, a trouser who has lost the iron can cause a breakdown of a business meeting, then talking about a car that does not want to start an hour before the appointed negotiations.

To the formulation of the diagnosis we must start quietly

If the starter does not twist at all and does not even click the traction relay when the ignition is turned on, then it is either faulty (you can close the hood and follow the advice above: "Take another machine .."), or trouble with the battery - turned off or sat down. Only in rare models, the starter power supply chain can be protected by a fuse - the amper of the AMPE is 300 - it is easy to find it, especially if you know where it is located in advance. If the battery is to blame, then all electrical equipment does not work. The simplest and easiest case - flew or contaminated one of the terminals, but the battery is in order. Tighten the fastenings of the terminals on it and at the starter (if any). If it turns out that the battery completely sat down (they forgot to turn off the headlights on the night), you can still leave. But with an extreme help. Here, as they say, options are possible. You can try to start with a shock, from a slide or from a tug. Do not try to bypass underwater stones: a car with an automatic box or electronic fuel injection (if there is an electric fuel pump) with these ways it will not be possible to start. We'll have to bite the neighbor. True, some machines may damage the computer (read the instructions for the machine). If the starter is twist, but sluggish (it happens in summer, in winter it is a subject of a separate conversation), most likely the battery is almost completely discharged. It will be visible on the weak light of the headlight or a sick signal. In this case, the above assistance options come into effect.

From the spark will marry ...

So, you need to look for a spark. Your machine can be equipped with a classic (simplest) ignition contact system, a rather complicated electronic contactless or some combined option. In any case, the system consists of three parts. Part One is low-voltage (interrupter contacts in a classic system or a special sensor in the electronic, plus a box with an electronic stuffing forming a spark). Part Two is an increase in the transformer, referred to in the world of the ignition coil. Part Three - high-voltage (mechanical or electronic distributor and wires, for which the high voltage current is summed up to the candles). And naturally, the candles themselves. The check of all this farm must be carried out in stages and it is better to start from the end.

The first stage. High voltage part of the system. Check if there is a spark on the central wire - this is the one that connects the coil with the distributor. The tip of the wire must be removed from the distributor cover, closer to any part that has a good contact with the mass of the car (it is painted or not, it does not matter), and the gap of 5-7 mm remains between the tip and the selected part.

Stage second. Turn the engine starter. At the same time, see what happens on the tip of the wire. Two options are possible. A more favorable is a spark. Powerful, accompanied by loud-clicking. This significantly narrows the field of further searches.

If you have already reached the step of turning the candles, it is possible to be quite effective (and effectively) to check the entire ignition system as a whole. Connecting the high-voltage wires to the twin candles, collect candles in a bundle, like carrots, and wrap directly along their threaded part with a naked soft wire. Make sure the wire has contact with each candle, but does not concern the central electrodes. Fluent wire end connect with mass. By placing a beam of candles in a convenient place to observe the location, screw the engine starter. At the same time, there should be funny sparks between the electrodes of candles in turn (in accordance with the order of cylinders). If so, then the whole ignition system is in order. The sound of the engine will be very unusual - do not be scared, because it spins with twisted candles. Do not twist for a long time. Worse, if at the second stage of checking there is another option: the sparks between the central wire and the "case" is not. So it's not in high-voltage chains. Further search will be more complicated, appreciate your time and desire. If both are available, proceed to the third stage. Check if the voltage is supplied to the ignition coil. It is easy to make a tester, and if it is not, you can use a rotor light bulb. True, you will need a pair of wires to connect it to the coil. In the classic ignition system, connect the light bulb between the mass and the input of the primary winding.

In the third stage, as usual, two options are also possible: the voltage to the coil is either served or not. If it is served, the coil is to blame - a breakdown or short circuit, which, however, it happens extremely rarely. The coil will have to change. It is more likely to be bad contact in the mounting of the wires to the coil. Or the same wet dirt, according to which the spark bucks not known where. Sometimes the coil is cleaned to the brilliance, but under it the invisible very narrow strip of dirt is preserved - a good conductor.

Do not press the floor - it will not help

It may turn out that the entire ignition system was checked, everything is in order, and the engine, even though you are crazy, does not start. Therefore, problems with another of the previously mentioned systems - power system, i.e., fuel supply to the engine.

If you have a car with an injection (injector feeding system) of fuel - do not touch it (to the system). You can only come to the conclusion that it was broken by it: there is a spark that fuel is suitable - it means she is rim. Treatment only in the hospital. At home and kustareys, it is useless to repair it and even harmful.

In the usual carburetor engine, the fuel system is simpler - tank, fuel pump, a set of pipelines and a carburetor. Here you can smooth yourself. First of all, you need to make sure that gasoline enters the carburetor. Disconnect the hose from the carburetor and click on the manual fuel swap lever. If a rather powerful jet of gasoline scored - everything is fine, it's time to go to the carburetor. It happens that gasoline is applied to the carburetor properly, but for some reason it does not come. If there is time and desire, remove the air filter, then ask someone to sharply click on the accelerator pedal. Or you can dramatically pull the throttle drive cable. At the same time, look at the carburetor from above (the air damper is open, otherwise you will not see anything): If the gasoline strika does not appear in the first diffuser - it means that there is no it in the float chamber. There is no it there because the needle of the valve (it happens very often) is completely clogged with a fuel filter in the carburetor - it is located in front of the float chamber. Or zepers clouded. The filter is purified by purging, however, in the absence of the necessary skills, it is better not to bind to the carburetious insides at all, to deal with the healing of the needle valve, clogging of loopholes and other subtleties - let it make specialists.

If the trickle is in the diffuser, pay attention to the launching device of the carburetor - it is quite often fail. On foreign cars starting about the 70s, automatic air damper control is applied. The device without your participation, depending on the engine temperature, closes or opens the flap as far as it is necessary, enriching the mixture when the engine starts. If this automation works, you can try manual manipulations with air damper, but there are a lot of options and there are no universal councils. Before starting manipulations, connect and secure the previously disconnected fuel hose. Air filter can not be installed yet. If it starts, let the engine warm up and with God (after returning the air filter to the place) .. if when checking the fuel supply by a fuel pump, it turns out that gasoline from the hose does not go or the trickle is very fluid, the reason should be sought in the closed pipelines, the fuel filter or fuel filter The fuel tube itself - you can easily demonstrate your masterness, pumping the benzins of the tire pump in the direction, inverse the movement of gasoline, i.e. from the carburetor to Baku. In the tank should be heard the ardor, bullous sounds.

With a fine fuel filter, everything is simple. Although almost all modern models, it is made in a transparent building, the degree of contamination is impossible to visually determine. The dirty filter will allow you to start the engine, but will not allow you to go normally. If it is completely clogged - the engine does not start. The most efficient check: Remove the filter and, if there is no new, temporarily replace it with a suitable tube, for example, the ballpoint housings are better transparent - it can be seen how gasoline flows. Do not attempt to clean the filter - a walled (or missed) case does not understand.

If you came to the conclusion that your car does not work the fuel pump, and there is no spare on hand - "Take another car ...".

Rare, but the most unpleasant diagnosis we left at last. If the starter works fine, you have already spent a bunch of time and made sure that ignition and food are in perfect order, and the car, however, does not start - it is worth considering the camshaft drive belt. However, decide for yourself, this check can be carried out at the beginning, especially if the engine has already passed more than 60 thousand. The complexity is that we will have to remove or at least partially bend the top of the closing belt of plastic casing. It is possible that the belt was cut off the teeth - in the belts, like people, teeth are lost from old age. In this case, the camshaft does not rotate and the engine will not work. It is clear that a toothless belt requires replacement (those who have a car with a chain drive camshaft, this trouble is not threatened). The belt replacement procedure is not complicated, but troublesome. Carried out in the hospital. Well, if everything limits the replacement of only the belt, and not bent valves or the entire block of the block - it also happens.

About the causes of atherosclerosis

Let's try to explain why the car's blood system is sometimes amazed by "atherosclerosis". Gasoline - blood car. And blood should be clean and run through clean vessels. And in the fact that in vessels over a permissible measure, "cholesterol" is accumulated, as a rule, we are to blame. Do you often use Cannomen for gasoline topping? If so, the chances of cloging the benzipers and filters are rising, especially if your funnel without a mesh. In the canister usually accumulate trash, rust, sand, and if the canister is painted inside, then paint particles. It is clear that the smaller the amount of intermediate packaging is used on the path of gasoline from the column in the tank, the better. Whatever enough, even on the most saddeless gas station of dirt in tanks in a specific rate than in the "home" cancut. Beach of our benzokolonok is not so much dirt as water. But here we are powerless. On our memory, only one rogue has grown on the dilution of gasoline, and it is not water, but with donkey urine, and not in life, but in the movies (see "Gentlemen of Good luck"). So you have to put up. However, to properly do not add water to domestic diluted gasoline, try to always keep the tank full. In an incomplete tank, condensate accumulates, especially in the offseason, when sharp temperature differences occur.

Smaller fucking

If your battery breathes to incense, try not to kick the engine during cutting stops in the city. Nothing raises the battery as a frequent use of the starter.

And the last (this applies not only to the battery, but also the entire electrical equipment in general). Remember: all terminals, contacts, wire tips should be dry and clean and well to lay down to "destinations". Dirty, grilled insulation sooner or later breaks through, and the burning and oxidation of any contact surface can serve as the only (and sufficient) cause of the ignition system failure. Or fire.

(but)- Simple checks

Before performing these checks, make sure that you definitely follow the startup procedure described in the chapter "How to run the engine" in Section 3, and that you have enough fuel. Check if the engine will start from other keys. If they work, your key can be faulty. Check the key from any authorized dealer or repairman to Toyota or another properly qualified and equipped professional. If none of your keys work, perhaps there is a malfunction in the engine blocking system. Contact any authorized dealer or repairman to Toyota or another properly qualified and equipped professional. (See "Keys")

If the crankshaft of the engine is not rotated or turns too slowly

1. Check that the battery terminals are clean and tightly clamped.

2. If the battery terminals are all in order, turn on the internal lighting.

3. If the light does not light up, fades or goes out when the starter turns the engine crankshaft, accumulator battery discharged. You can try to start the engine from external source. For further instructions, see in the "(c) launch from an external source."

If everything is in order with the light, and the engine does not start, it requires setup or repair. Contact any authorized dealer or repairman to Toyota or another properly qualified and equipped professional.

NOTIFICATION

Do not run the engine with towing or pushing. This can lead to faults in a car or cause a collision as a result of a sudden engine start. Also, a three-channel catalytic converter can overheat and create a danger of fire.

If the engine turns with its normal speed, but does not start:

1. Turn the ignition key to the "ass" or "Lock" position and try to start the engine again.

2. If the engine does not start, the engine can be flooded due to multiple crankshaft turning. For further instructions, see Point "(b) Run a flooded engine."

3. If the engine is still not started, it requires setup or repair. Contact any authorized dealer or repairman to Toyota or another properly qualified and equipped professional.

(b) - launch of the flooded engine

If the engine does not start, it can be flooded due to repeated crankshaft turning.

If this happened, turn the key to the "Start" position, fully pressing the accelerator pedal. Hold the key and the accelerator pedal in this position for 15 seconds, and then release. After that, try running the engine, removing the foot from the accelerator pedal.

If the engine does not start after 15 seconds of crankshaft turning, release the key, wait a few minutes and try again.

If the engine does not start up, it requires setup or repair. Contact your Toyota authorized dealer or repairman or another properly qualified and equipped professional.

NOTIFICATION

Do not rotate the crankshaft of the engine for more than 30 seconds at a time. This can lead to the overheating of the starter and the electrical wiring system.

(c) launch from an external source

To avoid serious injuries and damage to your car, which can occur as a result of an explosion of a battery, with acid burns, electric shock, or damage to electronic components, it is necessary to strictly follow these instructions.

If you are not sure you can do

WARNING

The battery contains sulfuric acid, which is a poisonous and corrosive substance. During the launch from an external source, put on safety glasses and try to splash the acid to your skin, clothing or car.

If the acid accidentally got on you or in your eyes, immediately remove all the contaminated clothing and rush to the affected places across the water. After that, immediately consult medical attention. If possible, continue to apply water with a sponge or fabric on the way to a medical institution.

Gas, which is usually highlighted from the battery, explodes if the flame or spark is near. Use only standard connecting cables and during the startup process from the external source do not smoke and do not ignite the matches.

NOTIFICATION

The battery voltage used to enhance must be 12 V (b). HE Start from an external source if you are not sure that the auxiliary battery meets the requirements.

Running procedure from an external source

1. If the auxiliary battery is installed on another car, check that cars do not touch each other. Turn off all unnecessary lighting and accessories.

To increase the voltage, use the battery of suitable or higher quality. It may be difficult to start the engine from any other battery.

If it is difficult to start the engine from an external source, charge a battery for a few minutes.

2. If required, remove all the ventilation corks at the auxiliary and discharged batteries. Blank outdoor bunches of a piece of fabric. (This will help reduce the danger of explosion and the risk of injury and burns.)

3. If the car engine with the auxiliary battery does not work, run it and let it work a couple of minutes. In the process of starting from an external source, hold the engine speed at about 2000 RPM (rpm), slightly pressing the accelerator pedal.

4. Connect the cables in the sequence A, B, C, D.

a. Connect the clamp of a positive (red) connecting cable topositive (+) terminal of the discharged battery.

b. Connect the clip at the other end of the positive (red) connecting cable to the positive (+) terminal of the auxiliary battery.

c. Connect the clamp of the negative (black) connecting cable to the negative (-) terminal of the auxiliary battery.

d. Connect the clamp at the other end of the negative (black) connecting cable to a solid, fixed and unpainted metal part of the car with a discharged battery.

Do not connect the cable to or near any part that moves when turning crankshaft Engine.

WARNING

When performing connections to avoid serious injury, do not lean over the battery and do not allow the cables or clamps to touch anything other than the corresponding battery terminals or land.

5. Get your engine in the usual way. After the engine is started, let it work for several minutes on revolutions of approximately 2000 RPM (rpm), slightly pressing the accelerator pedal.

6. Gently disconnect the cables in a strictly reverse sequence: first the negative cable and then positive.

7. Carefully remove tissue coatings with batteries, on them can now be sulfuric acid.

8. If the battery ventilation corks were removed, set them into place.

If the reason for the discharge of your battery is not detected (for example, the lighting is turned on), you should check it from any authorized dealer or repairman of Toyota or another properly qualified and equipped professional.

If the first start attempt is unsuccessful:

Make sure the connecting cable clamps are connected tightly. Recharge the discharged battery, connecting the connecting cables, within a few minutes and start your engine to return to normal.

If the second attempt is unsuccessful, the rechargeable battery can be depleted. Check it with any authorized dealer or repairman Toyota or another properly qualified and equipped professional.

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