Cleaning contacts and contact surfaces. Chemistry for electronics - cleaning contacts. Tool for cleaning printed circuit boards

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The aerosol composition of the combined action. Removes metal oxides and fatty contaminants in a single process. Restores the electrical conductivity, blocks leakage currents. Does not damage parts from metals and plastics. - Cleans contaminated contacts - breaks and removes salts of oxides - reduces contact resistance - does not contain silicone using kontaktreiniger allows you to quickly and easily clear contacts from oxides and contaminants, saves time and improves the quality of electrical equipment service.

Application

Contacts Disable from the power source. The product spray to contacts and, depending on the level of contamination, leave about 5-10 minutes. Remove the dirt with a napkin, brush or compressed air. In the event of a product from entering lacquer or plastic surfaces, wipe them with a damp cloth. After cleaning, protect contacts using Elektronik-Spray (Art. 3110) or LM 40 Multi-Funktions-Spray (Art. 3390). Note: Connect to the power source 10 minutes after the cleaning is completed.

The modern chemical industry produces many drafts of the useful means of cleaning and protecting electrical contacts from corrosion and oxidation. But it is not necessary to discount the recipes of such cleaners, as they can also come in handy when working with those or other devices. This article describes several available chemical compounds for cleansing and protecting contacts.

Cleaning products for contacts can be relatively easy to prepare at home, and you do not need any exclusive materials.

After any of the cleaners given, you need to move the contacts to make up the composition of the all meta treated surface. You also need to wait about 15 minutes, in order to evaporate the solvent, after which it is necessary to wipe the contacts to remove dissolved contamination and excess solvent.

How to make liquid for cleaning electrical contacts Recipe first:

You need to mix in a glass jar of a substance observing the proportions:

250 ml of ammonia aqueous concentrated

750 ml of methanol (this substance is poisonous) or ethyl alcohol denatured by gasoline.

The mixture is stored in a well-closed glass container.

How to make liquid for cleaning electrical contacts Recipe Two:

It is necessary to dissolve 20-50 ml of vaseline (medical) oil in 950 ml of extraction gasoline. After you need to mix thoroughly and pour into a bottle.

Composition for cleaning silver contacts:

If it is possible to remove the contacts and put them into the solution, that's what you can use:

Contacts are first degreed by washing in trichloroethylene, ether or tetrachloromethane. Degreased contacts are immersed in a bath with a 5% solution of potassium cyanide (you will be very careful if it is poison !!!). Immersed in solution Contacts (no more than 1 min) It is recommended to move the part. If during this time does not dissolve the dark layer on silver contacts, it is necessary to immerse the parts into a new solution (the former is already saturated).

When pollution disappears, silver contact is necessary to rinse well in running water.

Note that after such removal silver is very subject to new oxidation! Therefore, your contacts must be placed in the composition of a concentrated (25%) pure ammonia solution, no more than 3 minutes (stir the composition continuously). Then it is necessary to rinse well with running water, or in ethyl alcohol, denatured by gasoline or ether and dry well.

After such operation, silver contacts will no longer be oxidized under the influence of the external environment.

Recipe defenses for contacts:

If you need to "put it up for a long time" electrical contacts, then do the following: In the porcelain cup, dissolve with weak heating 10 - 30 g of stearic acid and 980 ml of trichloroethylene (instead of trichloroethylene, tetrachloromethane or tetrachloroethylene can also be used.).

It is necessary to give a solution to stand and pour into a bottle with a good plug. This solution has a protective "preservative" action. Such a solution must be applied to carefully cleaned, skimmed and dry contacts with a homogeneous layer.

P.S.: I tried to visually show and describe not cunning tips. I hope that at least something will be useful to you. But this is not all that it is possible to invent, so dare, and look through the site

The question of why terminals on the battery are oxidized, worried many car owners different marks machines. Oxide only looks like it looks so beautiful and interesting, and in fact it brings a lot of problems even by experienced drivers (not to mention newcomers who simply do not imagine that it can be done with it, and than dangerous such a neoplasm). And perhaps, you need to change the terminals themselves? Or is it time to throw out an old battery and run buy new? Or simply clean the contacts and recharge the battery?

Why do the terminals on the battery are oxidized? You can tell you anyone who knows at least a few chemistry, or simply - electrician from car service. And if you think that the contacts are oxidized only with the newcomers who have recently sitting for the ram, they assure that it is not. Everything happens much more harder, according to the laws of nature. Simply knowing driver On time will turn its attention to this phenomenon and will take appropriate steps to eliminate the problem.

Main reasons

The electrolyte hits the contact itself. Perhaps the rods are loosened in the battery. Or one of the batteries sections are loosely closed by a plug. As a result, the contact is oxidized under the influence of oxygen, and a white flare appears. It is recommended to check the battery on the tightness and position of the rods. Also - check the density of the plug twist if they are available.

  • Fatigue of the battery itself. This means that its resource on the outcome (rod seals fucked, and the unit itself will no longer take the charge). It is recommended to change the old battery for a new one. Although if the battery is properly maintained, the service life can be somewhat extended;
  • The electrolyte density does not comply with the stated standards (elevated or lowered). How can this be avoided? It is necessary to comply with the battery maintenance time and use the ready-made high-quality electrolyte, and not to dilute the acid itself. When taking the use of only distilled water;
  • Damaged housing rechargeable battery. Circuit of one of the tanks-cans. Leak of electrolytic fluid.

Signs of oxidation

With visual signs, everything, more or less, is clear. The visible white flare just testifies to this phenomenon. But in many modern batteries, the terminals are protected by special linings so that at first glance and do not diagnose the problem. In addition, some drivers are typical quite rarely open the hood cover. How else can you recognize the signs of nascent faults?

When trying to start (especially in winter time) Starter not immediately grabs or turn crankshaft, as if, with difficulty. And this is despite the fact that you quite recently seem to recharge the battery through a special device.

In the evening, the light of the headlights and dimensions seems to fill, becomes not so bright as before. This signal indicates a possible oxidation of battery contacts.

What can be done?

From the course of chemistry, even a schoolboy should be known, which neutralizes the acid alkaline medium, speaking to it by an antagonist. So we can eliminate the emerging oxidation with the help of ordinary soda used in the kitchen. How to clean the oxidized contacts with the smallest losses? If there is already a fairly thick layer of white plaque, protective lining, absorbed by the medium, simply cut off (after you can put new ones, they are not expensive) and release the place of access to the terminals.

Then unscrew and remove battery. And the liberated terminals are immersed in soda solution. It is quite simple to prepare it: dissolve in well-heated water (half a compound) several spoons of soda food.

But the solution should be sufficient enough so that the chemical process takes place quickly.

This procedure must be enough if the state of the terminals is not yet critical, and the falling there, the resulting, eaten not too deep. Otherwise, you need to use sandpaper or a sharp knife to clean up to the metal, and then use the soda solution to finally remove the oxidation. Shlifuya Terminem, at the same time you can check it on the subject of joining the wire: it should not hang and stick on snot. If you notice like this, immediately eliminate the problem.

After stripping contacts do not forget about the boost space. There may also be traces of oxidation from the battery may also be present. We remove, missing the soda solution or expanding the eatter. Yes, and do not forget about the battery itself, which attachments are also most likely, in white ride from oxidation. We take the sandpaper and gently rub it to the metal. The removed battery is convenient to clean from the oxidation of contacts on the rubber rug. Then the whole formed metallic and acid-alkaline dust would be well blurred by pressure of compressed air.

Precautions: It is necessary before performing work to wear rubber protective gloves. They will be able to save your hands from the effects of reactive media, both sour and alkaline. We also should not be forgotten that near the battery, which is standing nearby, do not smoke, put heaters with open spirals, use open fire.

RESULTS

In the very cleaning procedure, as we see, nothing is particularly difficult. Anyone will cope, even inexperienced newbie. The main thing is to look at the hood often and do not miss the signals that the car itself gives you. Now you know why the terminals are oxidized on the battery, and what you need to do to remove this whitish falling from the contacts. But if the problem gets out again and again, then, most likely, the case is in the battery case, and you will have to buy a new one.


  • To neutralize spills from lead-acid and nickel-cadmium batteries, you should use food soda. From these types of batteries can be found a strong acid that can pass clothes, a carpet, and in some cases even metal. Put the protective gloves and the mask and sprinkle the spill of food soda, until it starts hiding and bubble. Remove the residue, using the paste from food Soda and water.

    • Food soda also sprinkle in a trash package in which there is a damaged battery.

  • Alkaline spills remove weak household acids. When working with alkaline batteries, you must take a cotton swab, dip it into vinegar go lemon juice, and then wipe spill and neutralize the main leakage. Take the old toothbrush, plunge it into the same substances and wipe the spill, which by the time it will dry. Water can lead to further oxidationSo moisten the paper towel as weaker and wipe them with acid.

    How to remove oxide from contacts?

    Repeat until you completely remove the spill, then give the device to dry for several hours.


  • Lithium leakage remove with water. Package with lithium batteries, which are often used in mobile phones or push-button batteries, should be immediately placed in a closed durable container, as they can lead to a fire or explosion. All electrical devices that hit the spill, use more unsafe. Throw off the device and clean the spill to the water alone and nothing else.


  • Recycling batteries. In some countries, you can throw away alkaline batteries with ordinary garbage, but most other batteries according to the law should be recycled.

    • Some battery manufacturers can offer you a new battery for free or at a low price.

  • Clean the electrical contacts (optional). If a battery has any device during leakage, it is possible that before you can safely use it again, you will have to clean the electrical contacts of this device. Sleep the remnants of the spill with a plastic or wooden stick, and then wipe the contacts with a slightly wet paper towel, after which you dry them with a towel. If the contacts are rigged, they were separated by acid or discouraged, polish them with sandpaper or file, but know that they may need to be replaced.

  • What could be the causes of oxidation of contacts:

    • Electrolyte leakage. The most common case. Being an acid, the electrolyte when contacting contacts causes a reaction - as a result, we face oxidation. Since the battery vibrates all the time, the clearance is formed between the contacts, it is through it that the acid is falling on the surface of the terminal. For Akb of a modern type of this kind, the problem is not relevant, because such batteries are closed and the electrolyte is placed in a sealed container, where evaporates and falls into the sediment. But there are cases when the battery in the course of work in one way or another is damaged and through microscopic cracks the electrolyte comes in the form of a steam, it settles on the terminals, thereby provoking the chemical reaction. Please note: the electrolyte can sometimes leak at high battery charge when there are problems in the electrical circuit. It is also possible to leak when casting full-time ventilation holes.
    • Electrolyte with unacceptable density values. In order to avoid such situations, it is necessary to use the finished composition during its replacement during its replacement, and not independently measure the components to the desired proportions.
    • The development of the AKB resource is the situation in which the rods of the seals are wounded.
    • Tightening terminals. This happens when the driver puts the terminal to the electrode without fixing it with bolts, starts movement by car. The fragile mount gives weak contact, the reaction occurs from here. Exit from position - cleaning the terminal and electrode plus a tight tightening.

    Experienced car enthusiasts did not come across this trouble, so it can be easily explained why a plus or minus terminal is oxidized.

    We are looking for a problem

    For several signs, you can easily determine if there is damage:

    • If you turn the key, and the starter is seized not from several attempts or is seriously twisted the crankshaft. There is a suggestion that the battery does not have enough charge, although not so long ago it was charged.
    • Onboard lights and headlights will not shine brightly.

    Cleaning from white plaque

    There are several ways to remove the collapse with the oxidized terminals. Remember Chemistry lessons: Alkali is an acid antagonist. Hence the simple advice - you can get rid of the plaque using ordinary soda. If the protective gum of contact is fully subjected to the formation of the plaque, it is recommended to be replaced because it has lost the necessary elasticity.

    Step by step:

    • Motor motor in order to avoid wiring
    • We pay attention to the location of the battery conclusions. They can be located on the sides. To remove them, use the key to 8. Other conclusions can be found on top of the battery, the key will come in handy on 10.
    • Negative and positive terminals weaken and remove.
    • Next, we recommend thoroughly inspect

    Browse the device for defects. When they are, then the battery needs to be changed.

    Explore wires and terminals on traces of physical wear. When flaws are needed to replace parts.

    Before embarking on the elimination of the plaque, the rubber gloves, they protect the skin of the hands from contact with aggressive media.

    Prepare a soda solution. One tablespoon (30 g) soda stir in a glass (250 ml) of water. As a brush for applying, use a toothbrush.

    Wipe the raid on the terminals. You can also dip the ends of the cables in the soda to remove the formations on them.

    After rinse the winding and terminals of the battery with cold water. You need to wash until the whole soda is clear. Wipe the terminals with a cloth dry.

    All open metal parts of the wiring and terminals are treated with technical vaseline. You can replace vaseline with a special lubricant-aerosol for terminals.

    Oxisions plus terminal battery battery terminals

    If soda failed to remove the flare or it tears partly, you can use the knife or sandpaper. Conduct actions should be careful not to damage the insulating sheath of the wire. Also, eliminate oxidation under the hood. The following method acts as an emergency cleaning:

    It is necessary to put on gloves and fixing nuts on both wiring terminals to weaken the key. Clems themselves leave in place.

    From above on the battery, pour Coca-Cola.

    Let's stand for a few minutes, and then rinse the battery with water.

    Wrap a dry device, then tighten the terminals and try running the motor.

    On the Internet, you can find a way to clean the contacts with gasoline. This is far from safe, as combustible material is able to easily damage rubber and plastic. It is best to immediately prevent oxidation, and not constantly remove the electrolyte plaque with the terminals. The faster you identify the problem, the less harm will receive a vehicle.

    before proceeding with cleaning, remove the decoration from the hands, as they can close the terminals or get into the moving parts of the motor;

    so that there is no closure, you should first remove the minor terminal, and during the assignment to secure it last time;

    when the timing on the terminals is stable and does not affect the toothbrush, it is possible to replace it with a wire brush;

    in auto shops there are many spray cleaners and greases. Many of them are an acid indicator. Eliminate the flair by such means will be much faster and more efficient, but before starting work it is necessary to familiarize yourself with the instruction, since the methods of use in all means are different. If we talk about sprays - cleaners, then they are inferior consistant lubricants In the strength of the coating. Unlike lubricant sprayers, the "long-playing" insulating coating is created, which does not react to detergents and has a bright color to control the application of the consistency.

    Purification of the battery with soda mortar

    Methods of combating oxidation

    We continue to disassemble what to do if the battery terminals are oxidized? It is worth understanding that even a new battery can evaporate a little acid. To somehow deal with this, you need to pay attention to the tightness of the connection. When the terminals are cleaned and securely fixed back, you need to apply a special protective coating. Let us give several methods for protecting contacts from the occurrence of acid plaque:

    Oil and felt. This method stretches from the long time, it is reliable and tested by time. Many drivers are therefore preferred to use it. Mixed felt felt imposed on the terminals to minimize the effects of vapor electrolyte and other external factors. To do this, make a circle with a hole in the middle. Impreet it with oil and attach to contact Akb. Then the on-board network is put on the contact vehicleFor cigarette, top with the second fooling gasket impregnated with oil.

    Felt washers. The fastening process is similar to the fooling lining.

    Technical vaseline, solidol, varnish. You can take other formulations that are well isolated and difficult to wash off.

    What to clean the contacts from oxidation in the car

    A good option is speaking silicone GreaseSince it does not absorb pollution in contrast to other materials.

    Special lubrication (anti-rig). You can get it in the auto shop. The mixture has anti-corrosion properties, it is an aerosol who pollinated terminals.

    How to lubricate the battery terminals so that no oxidized plus terminal

    Lubrication selection for battery terminals

    If you do not know what to lubricate the battery terminals, so as not to oxidize, then use the tracking tips. Since the restoration of the battery is worth a lot of money, then approach the choice of funds is more serious. Opinions in the choice of lubrication for terminals always disagree. Some remain adherents of the Deadov methods, and others prefer new technical developments. On this occasion, it is worth making the arguments for and against.

    The most chassis is solidol. After cleaning and tightening the terminals, it is applied by a thin layer, it will help forget about the problem for almost half a year, provided that everything is hermetically and the battery has no damage. Its minus can be called the fact that over time he begins to coke, that is, rolling into lumps, which can not be said about Vaseline. Vaseline is considered the next no less popular tool, you can use both pharmacy and technical. Although it perfectly protects batteries from moisture and soldering, but has bad conductivity. To fix it is necessary to mix with graphite lubricant in vaseline.

    Litol can be attributed to the old security tools. Only he is inferior to all modern means of protection for efficiency, as it can wash off shampoo. He has a loose, loose structure, where there are no additives and additives or dyes. So far, many manufacturers have not renounced lubricant, and recommend them in the instructions on the battery.

    What to do if terminals are oxidized to clean the contacts

    If we consider modern tools, you can highlight the Molykote HSC Plus lubricant, it is created specifically for FIMM batteries, although it is used on the other AKB models. Its electrical conductivity at height, and specifications Consistent with temperature fluctuations from -30 to +1100 ยฐ C. After you can select German spray lubricants that do not create transitional resistance, but provide a stable voltage. The most acceptable price can be cited as an example of the "CIATIM" means, however, its minus in poor conductivity.

    But what about the fact that on some models of the battery it is impossible to make wetlasting gaskets impregnated with oil? Probably, the best way out of the situation will create overall protection - like the anther. For example, you can use a linoleum or a rug from the "Classics". Even if it looks not aesthetic on the outside, but at least somehow protects the battery from the penetration of dust and dirt.

    Gas Club - Allgaz.ru\u003e Tips (FAQ)\u003e Our garage\u003e Electrician\u003e What to clean the scurrid contacts on the ECU?

    View the full version (in russian): What to clean the scurrid contacts on the ECU?

    Guys, what means optimally clean the contacts on the ECU? Some small wiring are covered with white oxide. What to buy, how to smear, sprinkle, wash off?

    10.02.2010, 19:10

    Cleaner for carburetors - aerosol.

    Wires can be covered with a hoist so what ????
    If you doubt the reliability of the contatetics, it is stupidly reinstall and insert the spikes to eliminate the film on contacts
    Don't do two things
    1 Water pouring on time
    2 steam baths from sealing with every films seem to be for the good goals of protection against moisture (the fact is that the time of one material should be in dry and all

    And all will be well!

    There are special aerosols for cleaning contacts "Contact Clear" of various firms, I think in Moscow they are not a problem (chip and dip). They are expensive in order to clean the contacts once, it is better to use the above methods.

    I think, besides alcohol, it is better not to handle anything else. Especially the cleaner of the carburetor. For this purpose, a toothbrush is suitable or a brush with a rigid pile.

    11.02.2010, 00:50

    That's right, medical alcohol, WD-40 removes moisture, but according to the instructions dissolves chewing gum, glue, lubricants, resins and with high penetrating ability there is a possibility of entering the unit itself. Predicting that she may not begin there, but he himself would not risen.

    11.02.2010, 01:10

    what? Old Dedov's way - alcohol! ๐Ÿ˜‰


    alcohol is not entirely correct, alcohol creates a film on the surface .. In principle, it is not great .. it is better gasoline ..

    in general, you need to not clean the contacts, but why they zakisli .. And it would not hurt to check that inside the computer .. I am more than sure if you zakisii contacts, then inside not ice ..
    I imagined a lot inside, but the contacts were like new ..

    look for the reason why they zakisli.

    In the sense of inside the ECU? In general, we are talking about the observed scheme inside the ECU, i.e. What we see after the opening of two external halves of iron. Or there still need a circuit board to unscrew and look further?

    11.02.2010, 01:52

    orenpux, I thought the question about the cells .. Now I understood .. I don't even advise the VD and otherwise, because there oil, and the oil conductor .. I cleaned a needle-knife .. honestly I don't know which liquid, but I think alcohol does not need .. Alcohol creates a film on the surface ..


    orenpux, I thought about the cells ..

    now I understand .. the DR and other I do not advise, because there oil, and the oil conductor .. I cleaned a needle-knife .. honestly I don't know which liquid, but I think alcohol does not need .. Alcohol creates a film on the surface ..

    maybe it can be better than solvent or anti-zavchy?

    the fact that the chip and the dipe is not sold is not acid .. it's easier to buy a new block ๐Ÿ™‚

    only after washing this nastiness, most likely it will wash off and varnish, I think it will be necessary to cover everything again.

    Added after 2 minutes 4 seconds
    You can try a gasoline and a toothbrush .. better or on the street or in a ventilated room (it is not worth it in the apartment) and rinse later ..

    Ndaaa .... Flight has already begun, it's somehow ... suddenly what they shook ... the people who cleaned the contacts on the board from oxide inside the ECU?

    11.02.2010, 02:04

    Guys, what a dispute? Introduction of the century on radiospauds of the board with technical alcohol, what films, what are the nonsense? Mobile phones in an ultrasonic bath wash too, by the way alcohol. You just need to confuse denature with pharmacy medical alcohol and everything!

    11.02.2010, 03:06

    here are my pictures .. Quartz Resonator had to buy a new ..

    Cleaning dirty contacts with sprays

    question Question 15R ๐Ÿ™‚
    Relled out, everything worked ... True I go to the new .. And this one lies like a spare ..
    You will find what to wash, write, I will give my own state to the state ๐Ÿ™‚

    It is not clear how it could happen ???? Quartz and everything around ideally and the leg as the ants of the Cieli ๐Ÿ™ and only one ?????
    Is this that the moisture dripped exactly on foot?

    alcohol is not entirely correct, alcohol creates a film on the surface .. In principle, it is not great .. it is better gasoline ..
    : shok:
    Life all the contacts of the electronics were wiped with alcohol!
    It is for the reason that the alcohol does not leave the films and does not dissolve the lacquer on the boards.
    Gasoline contains a huge amount of impurities and perfectly dissolves varnish.

    11.02.2010, 11:49

    iILLYYYAA2, this is just a bright example of not washed flux, the legs on quartz are very bad and acid-containing fluxes are used to facilitate the process (at home, I use an acyl-salicylic acid - aspirin tablet, it is also suitable for removing a varnish with enamel wires ), And if you do not rinse thoroughly, condensate will make your black business.
    Foot feet quartz is not a problem, just need? Under the conditions of vibration, it is already dumb.

    11.02.2010, 13:27

    GAM, I do not know, maybe worse thanks to the lacquer was this leg, maybe something ..

    radioded, I am new quartz soldered without problems .. the usual Fleus SCF (alcohol and rosin)

    m010103, so let the gasoline wash the lacquer .. You need one FIG to cover the fee again .. so you will twist the contacts themselves, and you smash the old Pokotsya ... Then the fresh one will be pretty and there will be a good happiness

    so let the gasoline wash the lacquer .. You need one FIG to cover the fee again ..

    so you will twist the contacts themselves, as well as the lacquer between them, you will smash the old Pokotnikha .. then the freshly put together and there will be happiness ๐Ÿ™‚

    And how and then cover? For nails female will go?

    11.02.2010, 13:31

    GAM, there is badly visible, but the legs of all the chips were covered with oxides (some kind of greenish pairs, I already scraped it)
    First, the brain was buggy, I gave a different mistakes, then I stopped working, it works not .. I suppose that I suppose from quartz, it was not .. I bought a new one .. And this began to repair

    Volzhanin34.

    11.02.2010, 13:31

    i do not know how you have in auto magician. Taught special fluid To clean the contacts ... It looks inexpensive ... and without any fiction of gasoline alcohol .. and all that

    11.02.2010, 15:01

    orenpux, depending on how much you do and wind .. Maybe it's easier to take in auto parts? He cheaper will be more than his wife till ๐Ÿ™‚

    by the way I thought to fill with a glue rod .. Siliconov .. who thinks? It spreads like water and seals super .. I poured a twist, and in it there is a contact ๐Ÿ™‚

    Added after 1 hour 28 minutes 3 seconds
    So, I am ready to conduct experiments on my solar brain, I will go to Lerua Merlin, buy some thread solvent and try to wash everything ..

    then I will check whether it works and snapped with a varnish .. or a glue rod ..

    11.02.2010, 18:12

    I would not apply solvents, you can damage the oxide film on the tin, there is such an effect, called the "tin plague", tin turns into a white powder, is especially progressing at negative temperatures. Bakelite lacques, after washing with alcohol, or on extremelyak paraffin. The main principle of the electronics is not harming. For myself, you are doing.

    The qualifection qualifies was received in 1970.
    1. Only a toothbrush and alcohol. Spit-only 96 degrees !! 70 degree can not !! At a very worst end, a seton can not be punished, melted. What is something else to think?
    2. Call-pin-lacquer !! Sealants, adhesives, thermoclauses are indignant!
    Better-go to Mitino-Maybe something new appeared! In the sense of new varnishes. The best alcohol - no one invented ...

    11.02.2010, 22:01

    by the way I thought to fill with a glue rod .. Siliconov .. who thinks? It spreads like water and seals super .. I poured a twist, and in her contact disappeared

    It is not silicone, silicone thermosetting - not melting after drying.
    Most likely it is a polyvinyl acetate or something like that.
    And now imagine - the fee is flooded with this bzyaka, and it took something to repaid?

    11.02.2010, 22:52

    bear, correctly and about the future of the following repairs, you need to provide, and so possible with epoxy: haha:, then exactly or for centuries or in the trash can: (

    Added after 5 minutes 21 seconds
    Ie in 15 years old have you been qualified?

    11.02.2010, 23:02

    bEAR, the store is sold with a Silicone sign .. Which is what it is .. And then you can pull it on .. or melted and turn out something .. Yes, and in principle, there is nothing to overpass if it will take it .. The main problem is moisture and oxides.

    in short, I bought a 646 solvent for 25r sex liters .. by smell Galimi acetone ..
    Soaps on the cold on the street, stupidly watered and slightly climbing in some places. The result is satisfied in principle.
    I would advise into some kind of capacity to pour and put a fee back there for a couple of minutes, then a cloth to lose the contacts .. well, and then rinse it clean ..

    here is a photo, and you decide what to do. before and after.

    11.02.2010, 23:16

    Yes, the header suffered prettyly, and the alcohol to translate the hand did not rise? Supply metalized holes - from one of the most narrow places, fill with the alcoholic solution and pour the tin soldering iron before going from the reverse side. Although I do not save on the varnish.

    11.02.2010, 23:31

    radioded, when I took a brain for the first time, he was filled with water on half .. it turns out and under water works ๐Ÿ™‚ disassembled, blew, went further, but I did not leave for a long time, then I bought a new brain, and this left to better times ..
    I will probably wash out to the end and then all the foul ..

    and alcohol, alcohol will not take a varnish .. I thought that the solvent would not take .. I thought to take 650, but I decided to start with 646 ๐Ÿ™‚

    11.02.2010, 23:40

    Restore - will be a reserve, I envy in good, success! And think about Paraffin, before a lot of military hall was filled, drilled a hole in the housing and under the neck. It will be very easy to remove it, slightly frowned with a hairdryer, the paraffin follows. And moisture fee will not be available at all, and on the insulating properties of paraffin one of the best materials.

    12.02.2010, 00:02

    radioded, good thought ..

    and the girl and angrily .. I think the brain was vryatli heats up so that the paraffin will follow .. I have in Moscow somewhere with half liters of the deposited paraffin ..

    Added after 1 minute 56 seconds
    .
    .
    Waiting for the photo by the author and how he solved his problem ๐Ÿ™‚

    And I began the qualification of the radio amateler at 9, when I tightened the wire around the courtyard and Masteryl detector receiver from D7zh, and then the scarmer did from 6p3c, it was very cool.

    Detector from D7? There is also a point, d2 or d9 :).

    arpsoa, Ie in 15 years old have you been qualified?

    You are on aryikomet-2 points.
    In the 70th I was 16.
    At the age of 14, I did not want to give the rights of a film mechanic. The passport was not, there was a wide profession!
    Every summer, (this is after school) for free, went to the south, to the pioneer camps ... a film mechanic.
    In the afternoon on the beach you sleep, you turn the cinema in the evening, at night - with pioneerware .... (Practice in female students after the 3rd course of the pedigree ...)

    12.02.2010, 19:51

    arpsoa, but I consider you faster, although not correct: yes2 :: lol2 :: drinks:

    arpsoa, Ie in 15 years old have you been qualified?

    I, for example, "soldering creativity" with preschool age Ballen, at school from grade 8 there was such garbage - "Crimson" was called, there was a crust "ERPS installer".

    arpsoa And a couple of posts about alcohol here saw - it is written. And the literate literacy in their cars is rinsed at least in their cars.

    So, for those who are really wondering:
    1) after _lusion_ with aspirin - be sure to launder irradiated from aspirin residues (alcohol!);
    2) _Pait_ only with rosin (or rosin + alcohol), after soldering, launder with alcohol, or first acetone + alcohol, and then with an alcohol with a wooden handle, with a metal rope and from natural bristles, because the plastic acetone dissolves;
    3) Varnish: If "on always", then epoxy varnish (you can make eaps of epoxy resin alcohol - almost the same thing), if "quickly", then Zapon-varnish is not so secure, but then you can repaid directly through it and dries quickly.

    All petroleum products for contacts - trouble, for silver plated - just death, acetone (enters the carburetor cleaner) eats the majority of plastics, incl. Isolation of most wires.

    The "stripping" of gilded contacts of knives, skin, eraser - these are the ways only for newspaper readers like "Komsomolskaya Pravda" (solid nonsense, even in the title - and the Komsomola has not long, and the truth is not found there :)).
    If I really want to clean - the same natural brush or a piece of paper in your hand ...

    If you have worked a start-up scheme - look for oxidized contacts in connectors, unpains and "cold solders". Well, mold, cockroach excrement, etc. ...

    12.02.2010, 21:02

    Detector from D7? There is also a point, d2 or d9.
    I learned this later, then there was no one, the Internet and forums did not invent, reached everything. Book Source Knowledge - I can say for sure! Therefore, I remember both the diode, and a telephone capsule from the cut-out phone of the machine.

    tarakanya excrement

    Yes Yes Yes. Especially concerns cars with mileage! ๐Ÿ™‚

    12.02.2010, 21:28

    Added after 2 minutes 10 seconds

    12.02.2010, 22:52

    Well, mold, cockroach excrement, etc. ...
    A man writes very correctly. You can of course show your head and say: "This is necessary how not to love your car to make cockroaches there with clouds." Although this infection does not ask where she lives, looking for where warming, darkened and preferably higher humidity. The cockroaches are the very first radio amateurs, about Popov repent the legends with their cockroach and shy, and they are gloomy. And they strive straight between the legs of the chip. When repairing somehow pinned out, the resistance of their shit was measured, it ranging from 500 to 500 ohms, it would probably be allowed from the intly features of the gastrointestinal tract of each individual. Not a gift in any guarantee, one of the items are exemption from warranty obligations in the presence of insects. Of course, all insects were offended in vain, but the cockroach is on the cockroach to spoil the life even to representatives of its class.

    By the way, I didn't take up professionally Rea repair (when the institute finished, I paid sharply for the accounting), but the cigarette cigarettes and the institute poded the cigarette. So, already being an accountant :), in the instructions for repairing Iwovsky muses. The centers saw the description of the common cause of the breakdown of the patephones - fascinating under the laser emitter and the breathing there is a tarakan. And the term "bugs" relative to the computer equipment appeared in a beard of the year precisely because of the settlement of insects in the computer (or Tarakanov, or butterflies, there are different versions). So, do not register, and beware :) ...

    Added after 5 minutes 57 seconds
    and I remember, I took the 646 solvent and washed off all the city

    Yes, and I do not care, no one for more than many years for many years - like wisdom comes ๐Ÿ™‚

    i'll ask again, isn't the alcohol with a varnish? Or will you try to wash oxides from microcracks in varnish? or wash only on top and the fool is not laundered again with varnish ??

    If cracks were formed in the lacquer, and in the board - there are still no, it means, at least, varnish - M-shaped. And the manufacturer of the board is also. Varnish more than the foundation of the board in traditionally oriented perfection ๐Ÿ™‚

    Aleviko, by the way, too, learning at school in some kind of a circle crazy handles ๐Ÿ™‚ (with a soldering iron) Well, at home and before and after a mug something twarily ..
    I generally learned "to repair household appliances" but did not die ๐Ÿ™‚

    Here (as one who used to say with a stain on Lysin) and the dog rummaged ... ๐Ÿ™‚

    radioded - about paraffin - the idea is very interesting, but strongly jammed heat exchange. On the "cold" schemes I will try to apply.

    13.02.2010, 15:31

    Aleviko, there is nothing to warm in the computer brain .. although there are 2 power diode there .. (probably diodes, in the transistor body 2 legs, the average is hung off)

    Black, flat, rectangular, all legs from one edge, from the opposite strip metal sticking - to the fee of solder? So it is transistors and there. If the inductor of the inductance from the thick wire is inhabited by an electrolyte for 500-3000mkf, it means that it all together is a secondary power source. He is exactly heated. And the rest is needed.
    In addition, unlosable can practically do not heat up, because the heat sink is good, but it does not guarantee that after the fill it does not warm up like an iron. Urgeted example - chickening from the fan heater.

    13.02.2010, 18:10

    Aleviko, if necessary, I can lay out without reducing 3648x2736, but I think there is nothing to look at it.

    even if it is somewhere to warm up .. I do not think that it will bring wax to boil .. well, it melts, it will give heat to the body and that's it. The main hole to make the bay top. what would not flow ๐Ÿ™‚

    that transistor that you say, probably commeses the relyushki on the ignition, the fuel pump ..

    i began to look at where the roads go from the "transistor" and noticed on the back of the rotten path .. right now I will see what answers .. but the brain worked without this track ๐Ÿ™‚

    According to the photo it really turns out that transistors include something - call the blurred legs on the connector, you will understand the connector that includes.

    The legs, near which resistors are attacked - probably the base, on them from the chip signals should go. The remaining legs are emitters, they are most likely to sit on the back.

    22.02.2010, 21:13

    Aleviko, my ECU worker, after replacing quartz ... Even the breakage of the track did not affect his work .. The track has been restored .. I'll buy a varnish, snap, then it can up to Kuchi Paraffin .. and probably kine in the car ... as a reserve ๐Ÿ™‚

    vBulletinยฎ v3.8.6, Copyright 2000-2018, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd. Translation: zcarot.

    Recipe in principle to store tools in a dry place and wipe and dry after work in a wet environment. I did not understand what kind of contacts there is a speech. It is possible just a malfunction of power tools, for example, tritely stuck brushes.


    Vlad Parak.

    Hello. The simplest recipe in this case is the storage of your electrical appliances in a dry place. Well, I do this particular contacts are not oxidized. And if there is no place for this, you keep your tools in packages.


    Athron.

    Try to look into the nearest auto shop and buy such a thing. The car is located in an even more aggressive environment, there is the problem of protecting contacts sharper. In extreme cases, technical Vaseline or Lithol-24 is used. Of course, at first it is necessary to rinse well and clean the contact point with alcohol, dry, and then apply lubricant.
    So in the case of the collector plates, everything is more complicated, copper is oxidized very actively and quickly, and I have not met protection for her yet.

    Did you work in the rain when? Or offer dried tool after changing?

    What to clean the contacts of the battery terminals to remove oxidation

    Where to store your home tool and how to keep it in general I know perfectly well, but working on objects in two shifts where the tool is general and passed from the brigade to the brigade to keep track of everything.

    No desire to come with your instrument, it is useless to speak director, so I'm trying to find a way out of the situation.

    Dear guest, stay!

    Already many earn just communicating on our forum!
    For example, like this. Or so.
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    September 24, 2014 at 15:40

    Car medicine Computer equipment service: another way to clean the contacts

    • Electronics for beginners

    Situation, familiar to everyone. You are watching your favorite movie. In the most interesting place, the TV screen goes out. Instead of pictures, Message: "Check the signal cable", "No Signal", "Check the power of the connected devices", etc. Diagnostics In this case, simple:

    1. several times remove the cable from the connectors at both ends;
    2. if not earned, try another cable;
    3. if another cable does not help, try to find out at what end problem: connect the TV instead of a monitor to a PC; Connect the monitor from the PC to the media player, etc.
    If after such a experience has not changed anything, most users go to the store to buy a faulty device: TV, monitor, media player, etc. There are still solutions "middle-half": for example, instead of HDMI, connect the device according to the composite, DVI, VGA - who has what is. But after all, these are semi-dimensions: you will not give rest to the idea that the device is faulty, that is about it to burn something else in it. Anyway, soon it will have to change it.

    Or maybe not?

    Suddenly it properly?

    Experience shows that 99% of such cases occurs due to the oxidation of contacts, and not in the cable, but on the device itself. (Especially often it happens when it's already cold on the street, and the batteries have not yet turned on - in the houses of raw, everything rusts especially quickly). Yes, you once bought a high-quality wire with gilded connectors. But the manufacturer of the monitor may not take care of this. What material he used to make contacts, it is impossible to check. Well, do not pay 15 thousand for a new monitor because of this?

    A simple and safe method of cleaning absolutely any contacts is proposed. No cotton sticks, no alcohol or cologne need. Everything is so simple that it is embarrassed somehow even describe.

    1. Rotate the device connector up;
    2. Take the WD-40 cylinder, insert the tube into the sprayer from the kit, put the tube close to the connector and press the head. Splashing should be abundantly, do not be afraid if something falls inside the case. Nothing to do it;
    3. Immediately, while the lubricant liquid has not leaked yet, we take the response part of the connector and insert / take it out several times in a row;
    4. Repeat PP. 2-3 another time for loyalty;
    5. Repeat PP. 2-4 for the second device and for the second end of the cable;
    After that we collect the system and check whether it will not work.
    If you work, do not rush to put the technique in place. Turn down down, put the napkin and let the remnants of the "medicine".

    How it works?

    It is worth familiar with this drug in more detail. The composition is very simple: 50% White Spirit, 15% mineral Oil, carbon dioxide and some "inert ingredients". Nothing, it means that there is no danger to the electrician. Because combustible materials, it is necessary to take care only that there is no open fire nearby, I did not understand anything and did not overheat. White spirit evaporates over time, and the oil forms a thin film, which subsequently slows down the oxidation of the contacts. In addition, if dust got into the connector, it is gained moisture and also becomes conductive, which can lead to equipment failure. It is not always possible to remove these particles possible, but if they are placed, the probability of closure becomes significantly less.

    Is it dangerous?

    Theoretically I will not say anything. But here are a few experiments.

    Of course, I did not come up with it myself. The first time I encountered such a "repair of electronics" when I was suddenly refused in my car directly on the track. The call is a familiar electrician, advice: Welcome all contacts. After 15 minutes I go on.

    Some time later (just before the start of the heating season) when the computer is turned on, I hear a disgusting squeak: problems with memory. Mac Mini, Kingston's memory, two 4 GB modules. The replacement of the modules of the problem did not solve, then problems with the motherboard, and she is notabled there. From despair, it was decided to repeat my travel experience: all the banks of memory splashed in a waist, set it out several times / removed the modules. Turn on the machine - cheers, earned! Naturally, immediately Memtest All in Single User Mode - no problems. Since then, it works without complaints.

    The DVI connector has stopped working in the Acer monitor at work. Temporarily connected via VGA and began to ask the bosses a new monitor. Where there ... and again simple procedure I solved all the problems.

    Finally, the case that this article opens. SAMSUNG TV, BBK media player are connected to HDMI. After 10 minutes, we have already seen a movie.

    conclusions

    It turns out that the simple liquid, which everyone is accustomed to use to lubricate locks, cycling chains, unscrewing rusty nuts and the like, can really extend the life of a complex expensive technique. Of course, it can save money to the owners of this technique itself. But it is more important, probably, how much pleasure it can deliver various owners of crazy handles.

    Important addition

    Especially for novice electronics - all manipulations with repeated removal / insertion connectors should be done only by turning off both devices from the network. This also applies to those interfaces for which the standard allows you to connect "on the hot" (for example, HDMI, USB): one thing is to stumble, another thing is under the current to pull.

    And, of course, it is not necessary to do this with devices that are under warranty - let the service center change everything to you. And "traces of foreign fluid" can serve as a basis for removal from warranty.

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