The starter turns and the car starts up badly. The car will not start - the starter is turning. Where to dig. The main reasons why the car may not start

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Each of the drivers should be familiar with the situation when, when turning the key, the power unit unexpectedly does not start, the starter does not turn, the characteristic click is not heard, from which the operation of the retractor relay begins. Since this problem is one of the most common, it is imperative to know the causes of its occurrence, how to diagnose and fix it.

Typical problems with the starting system of a car engine

The main reason that the engine does not start, the starter does not turn, is a low battery charge. This can manifest itself as follows:

The gauges on the dashboard and the power unit stop responding when the ignition is turned on. It is quite possible that there is no contact on some part of the car's electrical network, or the terminals are not securely attached to the batteries. As a rule, after eliminating these problems, the vehicle engine starts easily.
If the starter does not work, and there is no backlight on the dashboard, and there is no response from its sensors, this is evidence of a low charge or complete discharge of the battery.

It also happens that the solenoid relay clicks during autostart, while the starter does not work and does not turn the crankshaft of the power unit due to the incorrect position of the terminals on the relay, or sticking contacts. In the first case, it is enough to simply fix them, and in the second, to clean the carbon deposits, dirt and remove the collected oxidations from their surface. Next, it is worth trying to start the engine again. If this fails, it is most likely that the charge of the power source is not enough to crank the starter.

It is necessary to consider a situation in which the ignition turns on, and the starter does not turn, but the battery is fully charged. Most modern vehicles have special anti-theft devices - immobilizers, the purpose of which is to disable the circuits responsible for starting the engine. It is worth making sure that they are disabled or not on the car. Otherwise, it will not be possible to solve the problem without the help of an auto electrician. This problem is especially common on modern foreign cars, starting from 2008.

Starter problems

When the battery has a good charge, and the immobilizer is turned off, and the engine cannot be started, this is direct evidence of a malfunction of the starter. If, when the ignition is turned on, the starter motor does not start, while characteristic clicks are heard, this indicates that only its traction relay is triggered. The appearance of a ringing knock in the engine compartment indicates that the starter retractor relay is faulty, due to which the bendix and the flywheel do not engage with each other, making it impossible to start the car engine. To diagnose this malfunction of the retractor, and start the power unit, you can close both contacts on the relay using a powerful screwdriver with a well-insulated handle.

Important! Be sure to engage neutral before performing this procedure on your vehicle.

If the launch is successful, then the retractor is faulty. Perhaps the reason lies in the burning of his dimes. Most car owners think that this starter element is not repairable, and if it fails, only a replacement will save the situation. It is enough to remove the relay, then disassemble and remove the round dimes, which must be cleaned with sandpaper, assemble the device and install it back. Note that the dimes have a special anti-corrosion coating, so cleaning them on emery is an exclusively temporary measure.

If the starter does not work, it is likely that no voltage is supplied to its terminals. In the engine starting system of most vehicles, a special relay is provided, the purpose of which is to reduce the starting current. It can suddenly stop functioning, making it impossible to supply voltage to the starter terminals. A temporary solution to this problem along the way will be the installation of any similar element, for example, a rear window defogger relay.

The wear of the starter brushes is also the reason why the engine cannot be started, or it will turn on every other time. Burning or short-circuiting the winding turns completely destroys the element. In this case, you cannot do without replacing it. It can also jam the shaft of the part, for example, due to the depletion of its bearings or misalignment.

Problems with the solenoid relay

Sometimes, when the ignition is turned on, only this relay is immediately triggered, respectively, the circuit remains open. You can try to close the traction contacts, but this does not help in all cases. The appearance of a third-party crunchy noise in the area of the engine compartment is evidence of a malfunction of the bendix. This element is made in the form of a small gear and is located on the rotor shaft. The solenoid relay is triggered when voltage is applied to it, controlling the movement of the bendix, as a result of which it engages with the flywheel. The wear of this part makes it impossible to perform this procedure, since its worn-out parts cannot aggregate with the flywheel teeth, and this is the reason for the appearance of a strong crunch.

What to do if the car stalled on the move, and does not start, the starter does not turn

Every vehicle owner has faced this unpleasant situation. The difficulty still lies in how to understand the reason for the impossibility of starting the motor without finding the car in the garage box. Often the way out of this situation is the banal start of the power unit from the pusher of the car, but if this does not help, you cannot do without expensive tow truck services, or you can fix the problem on the way yourself.

If the car stalls while driving, when starting the power unit, you need to pay attention to how much the starter rotation speed has increased. This is especially true for motors with a belt drive of a gas distribution mechanism, and in some cases it is applicable to a chain drive. If the speed of rotation of the starter increased, while the power unit of the car does not start, a possible reason for this is a broken belt or timing chain.

Consider a situation in which the starter motor hums but does not turn the engine. The most common malfunctions of this are considered to be problems with the wiring of the traction relay, damage to the gear and wear of its teeth, incorrect operation of the bendix.

Let's describe the features of these faults:

damage to the gear, as a result of which deviations in its operation appear. Since the gear wears out over time, its teeth can no longer properly aggregate with the flywheel. In addition to the natural aging of the metal, the increased production of starter elements is caused by an incorrect operation of the unit (when the driver unsuccessfully activates the starter for a long time), a mismatch in the type of engine oil recommended by the vehicle manufacturer in winter. This causes the lubricant inside the engine to become too thick, interfering with the normal operation of all parts of the unit. As soon as the wear of the teeth reaches a critical limit, they will no longer mesh with the flywheel, and there will be a crackling sound during engine start-up, and it will not be possible to start it;
gear skew, due to which the working part of the starter drive does not fully mesh with the flywheel. This is characterized by the appearance of a metallic grinding in the area of the engine compartment, and during prolonged exposure to the starter, its elements fail;
the car does not start, the starter does not turn also due to the presence of a malfunction of the plug. If this part is damaged, the drive gear will remain stationary when the retractor relay is activated, therefore, it will not engage with the crankshaft, and the power unit will not start;
lack of electrical power, which occurs due to a violation of the integrity of the wiring in the car, failure of the starter brushes, oxidation and burning of contacts and terminals. All this prevents the flywheel from gaining the necessary speed. This is evidenced by a change in the speed of rotation of the starter.

Such malfunctions are characterized by different sounds emitted by the starter during its operation. For example, a characteristic metallic ringing, which turns into a crackling sound after a certain period of time, indicates the presence of problems at the junction of the gear and flywheel. If the gear is worn out, the entire assembly must be replaced. If it is in a satisfactory condition, the cause of the problem is inside the unit (for example, bearing wear, wiring faults, plug failure, etc.).

Briefly about what is written above

As you can see, there are not so many reasons why the starter does not turn, and all of them practically do not depend on each other. Malfunctions of a car engine starter can be caused both by the natural aging process of the metal from which its elements are made, by improper operation, and by third-party factors, consisting in the correct choice of motor lubricant.

The starter does not belong to the category of expensive auto parts. But this does not mean at all that in the event of a breakdown, it is imperative to purchase a new element. You can save a lot by determining the cause of its malfunction and eliminating it. The ideal option would be to diagnose the performance of the starter on a special stand.

Owners of a VAZ 2110 car very often face a problem - the starter is spinning, and the car will not start. In today's article, I would like to tell you about all the reasons for this malfunction, what to look for in the first place and fix this breakdown on my own.

In general, there are a lot of reasons why the engine may not start, and it is impossible to consider all of them in one article. However, there are “basic” conditions that are required for a successful launch. We will discuss them now.

Why does the starter turn, but the car does not start

A successful start requires a fuel supply at operating pressure, air and a timely spark. It is also extremely important to prepare the correct air / fuel mixture. These conditions should be checked first when the engine refused to start.

Burnt contact of the starter retractor relay VAZ 2110

Difficulties with starting or its inability can arise for a variety of reasons. The culprits should be looked for in such devices:

Fuel system malfunctions for all types of engines;
Problems in the electrical equipment of the machine.

It should also be borne in mind that starting the motor in cold weather differs significantly from carrying out this operation at positive temperatures. We will not touch on the problems with the battery and the starter, we will assume that everything is in order with them, so we will dwell only on the problems of the power unit.

Why Vaz 2110 won't start - 3 main reasons

Battery problems

First of all, if the VAZ 2110 does not start, but the starter turns, it is worth checking the operation of the battery. The voltage at the terminals of a fully charged battery will correspond to a value of 12.6 V. When fully discharged, it drops to a level of 10.5 V. But even a high voltage value of the battery at idle does not guarantee its stable operation, which will be discussed in more detail a little below.

It should be understood that lead-acid batteries do not tolerate full discharge. In addition, their capacity can be significantly reduced by the number of operating cycles and the total service life. Thus, a battery with a high open-circuit voltage level, with disconnected electrical receivers, may be unable to provide the necessary power for the starter to operate. How can I check this?

It is possible to determine the fact that the battery does not have a reserve of the required capacity (Ampere hours) using the same multimeter that reads the voltage level at the battery terminals at the time the engine is started. If the voltage drops below 10.5 V, then the battery is completely discharged or out of order and is not able to start the VAZ-2110 starter.

Among the main reasons for the self-discharge of the battery are the following:

the generator is out of order or the voltage regulator does not work;
the ignition key left on for a long time;
improper operation of the battery, failure due to physical wear and tear and exhaustion of its working resource;
wiring faults.

In order to prevent problems with the battery and the operation of the generator, there is a special indication on the VAZ dashboard. It reports possible problems with the generator, a break in the belt drive from the drive shaft to the generator, or a battery malfunction. If you do not want to buy a new battery prematurely, problems with the generator should be solved in the next 50-100 km. mileage after the corresponding indication appears on the dashboard.

Checking candles and sparks

If the engine does not start within five seconds, it is useless to turn the starter. You can try to start it again, but this is unlikely to be of any use. Moreover, excessively long starter operation can lead to overheating and even fire.

If you try to start the carburetor engine for a long time, then the gasoline will flood the candles and make further start attempts impossible in principle. The injectors have a purge mode, so the candles can be dried without removing them from the car - you just need to press the gas pedal to the floor and turn the starter.

But these are half measures. First of all, you should unscrew at least one spark plug, put the wire on it again and position the spark plug on the engine so that there is a distance of about three millimeters between the metal part of the spark plug and the engine metal. Turn on the starter and make sure that a uniform spark jumps between the spark plug contacts.

Check each candle like this. If there is no spark on any spark plug, then there are global problems in the ignition system.

Checking the fuel pump and fuel supply

The principle of fuel supply in carburetor and injection models of engines is different, but intermittent malfunctions are in many ways similar. Fuel supply in both systems is carried out by a gasoline pump. In the carburetor model, it has a mechanical drive, in the injection models it is an electric pump that creates high pressure in the fuel rail. Both types of pumps have built-in fuel filters, which can lead to failures when trying to start the engine.

You can indirectly determine the supply of gasoline to the cylinders by the appearance of the spark plug. If the plug unscrewed from the cylinder is wet and smells of gasoline, then everything is in order with the fuel supply. However, it is better to be convinced of this more reliably.

An electrically driven gasoline pump may not work due to the lack of supply voltage at its terminals. A blown fuse or broken wires may be the culprit in this situation. Problems can arise due to the fault of the carburetor, clogged nozzles will not allow the engine to start. But most of the problems in the fuel system are inherent in injectors. In such systems, there are several sensors that monitor and regulate the operation of the power unit. Failure of DPKV will make it impossible to start the motor. Such malfunctions can occur due to the fault of the pressure regulator in the fuel system. Poor starting of the engine injector cannot be ruled out from the organizers.

On injection engines, for this you need to relieve pressure in the fuel system using a special valve at the end of the fuel rail. Unscrew the cap and press on the valve with a screwdriver. Gasoline should spray out from under the valve. Then release the valve and turn on the ignition. At this time, the fuel pump must start working, restoring the released pressure in the system. If the pump is silent, turn on the starter. When and with the starter turned on, the pump does not work, most likely there is a malfunction in its power supply system.

If the pump has started working, then we again check the pressure in the fuel system, dumping it through the same valve in the rail. Once again, splashing gasoline indicates that everything is in order with the fuel supply system. When gasoline does not splash and does not appear from under the valve at all, we can talk about a faulty fuel pressure regulator in the rail (it constantly bleeds gasoline through the return line to the tank) or some kind of plug in the main fuel line (for example, due to freezing of water in low-quality fuel ).

On carbureted engines, it is much easier to check the fuel flow. It is enough to remove the air filter cover, move the throttle lever of the first carburetor chamber, simulating pressing the gas pedal and see if gasoline is sprinkling from the spray nozzle. You can pump gasoline into the carburetor using the manual pumping lever, which is found on all mechanical gasoline pumps.

Timing belt broke

VAZ 2110 does not start, the starter turns - perhaps the reason lies in a broken timing belt?

The engine's gas distribution mechanism is driven by the crankshaft gear. Initially, chains were used for this purpose, and timing belts, which began to be widely used about twenty years ago, caused distrust among car owners.

The undoubted advantages of a belt drive over a chain drive are its simple design, low weight and low noise. However, it is not without its drawbacks, the main of which is the relatively small resource of the timing belt.

Of course, a faulty, torn or loose timing belt also causes the VAZ 2110 not to start. By the way, on stock non-deformed models of the 21120 engine, a torn timing belt also causes deformation of the valves and requires additional repair. In this case, driving even after changing the belt without rebuilding the valves is impossible.

Check for sparks in the spark plugs visually by turning on the ignition and pressing the outer metal part of the spark plug to the metal unpainted body of the car or to the structural elements. Do not forget that all electrical parts of the product are under high voltage, therefore it is better to work with insulating gloves. If there is no spark on only one candle, be sure to check the rest, making the appropriate conclusions.

The consequences of a broken timing belt entirely depend on the design of the power unit. To imagine what will happen at this moment, you need to turn to the mechanics of the internal combustion engine.

In a running engine, the pistons move continuously from one dead center to another. During the intake stroke, the piston moves downward and the intake valve opens, during the exhaust stroke, the exhaust valve opens, while the piston moves upward. At the moment when the piston is at top dead center, all valves should be closed. If the timing belt breaks, the camshaft stops rotating and the valves stop in one position. At the same time, the crankshaft continues to rotate by inertia, and the pistons rush towards the open valves.

In some engines, for example, the 8-valve VAZ-2111, the pistons have special grooves in order to avoid contact with the valves in the event of a break. In this case, there will be no consequences, except that the car will not be able to get to the garage or workshop on its own.

How to check fuel - air system VAZ 2110

Another reason why the VAZ 2110 does not start may be a faulty supply of the fuel-air mixture to the car engine. In the air supply system, malfunctions are extremely rare and are reduced either to a tightly clogged air filter or to a blockage of the air channel with a foreign object. Such malfunctions are unlikely to occur in a well-maintained personal vehicle. But if the car is, for example, a service car or was recently purchased, it will not be superfluous to make sure that the filter is intact, and a rag after a recent repair is not stuck in the channel.

The fuel supply system to the engine is controlled by an electronic control unit, which, in turn, regulates the fuel-to-air ratio according to the readings of the mass air flow sensor (MAF) and the throttle position sensor. If both of them are faulty, it is not surprising that the VAZ 2110 does not start.

Next, it is worth checking the condition of the air filter, since this is the easiest thing to do. And, if none of the above actions helped, it is necessary to check the pressure in the system created during the operation of the fuel pump. Connect a pressure gauge to the fuel rail diagnostic port and measure the pressure. Its low level indicates a clogged pump filter, and a high level indicates a gearbox malfunction.

The normal pressure level directly depends on the type of engine installed in the VAZ 2110 car:

the limit from 284 to 325 kPa is normal for type 2111, 2112 motors;
a limit of 364 to 400 kPa is normal for type 21114, 21124 motors.

By the way, the serviceability of the fuel pump can also be determined by disconnecting the main hose for supplying gas to the rail and pumping gas through it into a clean container. A serviceable pump will pump at least 1.5 liters per minute. fuel.

Listen also to the work of the starter. Does the main electromagnetic relay turn on with a characteristic click and does the electromechanical drive of the unit work at all? Despite the fact that the design of the starter is extremely simple, it can easily lose electrical contact or fail the gearbox. In the latter case, a characteristic creaking or whistling sound will be heard.

If the starter does not rotate, you should dismantle it from under the hood of the car. This process will not take much time, as, in fact, the disassembly of the block itself. It is worth checking the health of the electrical part with a multimeter, “ringing” the windings, and disassemble the gearbox. A large amount of grease in it in the cold season does not allow the starter to rotate.

Checking electrical equipment VAZ 2110

If there is something to burn in the working cylinders, then you need to look for what will make the mixture burn. This means that you need to pay attention to the ignition system of the car. It can be an ignition distributor, a high-voltage coil and wires, candles.

It does not happen that all devices fail at the same time, so they should be discussed separately. We will assume that the distributor is installed correctly, in which case a failure can occur through a breakdown of the cover or slider, failure of the Hall sensor.

However, most often the reason is poor contact in the power connector of the ignition distributor. Problems can be caused by an ignition module or coils that do not generate high voltage to form a spark on the spark plugs. Injectors work in conjunction with ignition modules, of which there are usually two per engine. One provides operation of 1 and 4 cylinders, and the second 2 and 3 cylinders.

In these systems, the electronic control unit can be problematic, which generates control pulses for all systems, including ignition. You can check this block only by replacing it. The same can be done with the ignition modules.

Sometimes the fault can come from the high voltage coil, it does not generate a voltage that can spark to ignite the air / fuel mixture. You can check its operation if you unscrew the spark plug from the cylinder and, together with the high-voltage wire, ensure its contact with the motor ground. At this time, you need to turn the starter and observe the candle. The absence of a spark confirms a malfunction of the ignition coil. It is impossible not to dwell on such elements of ignition systems as spark plugs.

It is they who ignite the combustible mixture in the working cylinders of the engine. In the course of their operation, the metal parts of their electrodes burn out, after which the gap increases, starting the motor becomes more difficult, if not impossible. Check the condition of the candles regularly, especially their gap, then problems can be avoided. You can still continue to review situations when the starter turns, but the VAZ 2110, 2112, 2114 will not start.

It is simply impossible to take into account absolutely all cases, but in order to avoid such situations, timely perform routine maintenance on the machine, use only high-quality operating fluids.

Turning the ignition key, the driver observes the same picture every time. The dashboard lights will first come on to indicate fuel availability and battery power. In the extreme position, the starter turns on and starts to turn the crankshaft. A few turns of the crankshaft is enough to start a working engine, but what to do when, when the starter is working, but the car stubbornly does not want to start? A variety of malfunctions can be the culprit for this situation, because several automotive systems provide the normal operation of the motor at once.

Starting the internal combustion engine. How does this happen?

A car engine works only if several conditions are met:

A sufficient amount of air-fuel mixture enters the cylinders.
At a certain moment (at the end of the compression stroke) the spark plug generates the required power.
The crankshaft and camshaft rotate with strict interaction, ensuring the timely filling of the cylinders with a combustible mixture, the correct functioning of the gas distribution system and the operation of the gas pump in carburetor ICEs.

By turning the ignition key, the driver supplies power to the starter retractor relay, which turns on its electric motor and provides engagement with the crankshaft flywheel ring gear. As it rotates, the crankshaft converts angular momentum into reciprocating pistons and drives the camshaft (or shafts). The latter ensures the timely opening of the valves, due to which the combustion chambers are filled with the fuel mixture at the right time.

The engine power supply system is responsible for its preparation and delivery. As soon as the piston reaches the top point at the end of the compression stroke, the finely dispersed fuel mixture is ignited by the spark formed on the spark plug (in diesel units, ignition occurs due to strong air compression). After that, the microexplosion acts on the piston, which moves downward and makes the crankshaft rotate - this is how the engine start circuit looks like.

Why does the starter turn normally, but the engine doesn't pick up, won't start?

In half the cases when the car refuses to start, the starter is to blame. At the same time, the other half falls on situations where the starter regularly rotates the crankshaft, and the engine starts only after repeated attempts, or is completely silent. This can be due to a variety of reasons.

Inattention or negligence of the driver

The notorious human factor can manifest itself in the most unexpected way. For example, a banal lack of fuel or an alarm that blocks the fuel pump. And it also happens that some "well-wisher" clogged the exhaust pipe, or a careless driver, backing up, stuck into a pile of soil or a snowdrift. Such reasons do not belong to the category of technical malfunctions, however, a lot of nerves can be spoiled.

Technical Problems - Starter Malfunctions

Every more or less experienced driver will distinguish the sound of a starter, which regularly rotates the engine, from the useless hum of its electric motor without engagement with the flywheel. When starting to find a malfunction, you should definitely make sure that the starter is functioning normally, and during its operation there are no extraneous knocks, clicks and failures.

The starter is considered faulty in such cases:

The bendix gear cannot mesh with the flywheel ring gear. This manifests itself in a loud metal grinding that appears when the starter is turned on. The reason for this phenomenon is the wear of the mating surfaces, chipped teeth, etc. The solution to the problem is to install a new flywheel or crown. The latter can be turned 180 ° and thus do not need to buy a new part.
The freewheel or solenoid relay mechanism is stuck. This causes the starter motor to hum, but does not make any attempt to start the engine. In some cases, repeated attempts to turn on the starter help, but this only for some time postpones the need to repair or replace it.
The crown is weakened. A similar malfunction happened on a car at the end of the last - the beginning of this century, including the popular "nines". In this case, the starter engages with the crown and begins to turn it, however, it turns with a grinding noise on the flywheel. Only replacing the latter will help.

Video: Watch for everyone who has problems turning on the starter. Helpful advice from an auto electrician.

Fuel system problems

Even the most "vigorous" battery and a new serviceable starter will not be able to start the car if there are problems with the supply of fuel to the cylinders. For this reason, the next thing to check is the engine power supply system.

1.Fuel pump

For carburetor and diesel engines, this unit is located directly next to the cylinder head or block. Injection power plants are equipped with an electric pump, which is installed in the fuel tank. Their work is judged by the brief buzzing that appears after the ignition is turned on. As for the gasoline pumps of carburetor engines, they are mechanically driven by a cam mounted on the camshaft.

It is not difficult to check the operation of the fuel pump - to do this, remove the hose from the carburetor inlet and lower it into a suitable container. After that, fuel should be pumped up using the manual priming lever or by turning on the starter. If the result is negative, we check the passage of gasoline through the fuel line and clean the mesh located in the upper cover of the pump. If this does not help, then inspect the membrane and the valves of the gasoline pump. After replacing damaged and worn parts, the device will be able to work again.

2.Fuel filters

Along the path of the passage of fuel from the tank to the engine, there are several filtering units - coarse mesh, located on the fuel receiver, in the fuel pump and carburetor, and in addition, paper filters located in the cut of the fuel line. The intensity, and even the possibility of supplying fuel to the internal combustion engine, depends on their purity. If you find a blockage, clean or replace the filter elements.

3. Choke and nozzles

Gasoline internal combustion engines operate on a fuel mixture that is prepared in the carburetor or intake manifold (for injection cars). In the first case, the fuel passes through a whole system of channels, nozzles and nozzles that are located in the carburetor. In the second, it is supplied by injectors according to signals from the electronic engine control unit (ECU).

The air supply is metered using a throttle valve, which, depending on the engine design, can be mechanically or electrically driven. Clean the parts of this unit and the choke itself. Also, check if fuel is supplied to the cylinders. If you are dealing with an injection vehicle, then press on the union valve located at the bottom of the fuel rail - at the same time, gasoline should flow from there under pressure. If the trickle is too weak, then we check the filters, the fuel line and the pressure relief valve of the fuel pump.

In carburetor engines, the fuel supply can be judged by sharply opening the throttle - in this case, a portion of fuel will be injected from the sprayer of the accelerator pump into the diffuser. In addition, for gasoline powertrains, inspect the spark plugs - they should not be dry. If not, check the presence of a control signal on the injectors. If everything is in order with this, then you should unscrew the ramp mount and move it away from the manifold in order to inspect the spray nozzles when starting the engine. The absence of fuel jets or their low intensity indicates the need to clean or replace the injectors.

As for diesel engines, they supply fuel under high pressure, and a much more complex pump (high pressure fuel pump) and nozzles of a special design are responsible for this. To repair these units, special equipment is required, so in this case it is better to contact a specialist.

Something else useful for you:

Video: The starter buzzes, but the engine does not turn

4. Violations in the operation of electronic systems

To check the ignition system, unscrew and remove the spark plug from one cylinder of the engine. Having installed the tip of the high-voltage wire on its contact nut, the spark plugs touch the cylinder head with the skirt and turn the engine with a starter. In this case, a powerful spark of a purple or blue hue should appear on the contacts. If the spark is too weak (or it does not exist at all), then we check the operation of the ECU, ignition coils and distributor (for an old-design ICE).

Other causes of difficult starting when the starter is running

The timing belt is torn, or weak and jumped a few teeth - in this case, the valve timing turns out to be knocked down, due to which the engine cannot start. It is enough to replace and set the belt according to the marks, unless such a nuisance ends with the meeting of the pistons with the valves - in this case, an overhaul of the engine will be required.
The crankshaft rotates with a noticeable force, which can be caused by various mechanical damage to the crank mechanism and the cylinder-piston group. Check if the engine cranks when you try to start it in high gear "from tow" (for manual transmissions) or by rotating the crankshaft by the pulley of cars with automatic transmissions. Relatively light rotation indicates that the cause of the malfunction is hidden elsewhere.
One of the attachments is jammed, which creates increased resistance to rotation of the motor shaft. To search for the "weak link", it is necessary to loosen and remove the belt, and then try to manually crank the pump, generator, air conditioning compressor or power steering pump. If a breakdown occurred far from the service station, then you can only get to the nearest car service on those cars in which the pump is driven by a timing belt. On other engines, you can try to connect the crankshaft pulley to the coolant pump with something suitable - a rope cut from the inner tube with a rubber strip, etc.
Failure of the sensors connected to the ECU - the position of the crankshaft (DPKV), Hall, etc. Due to their breakdown or improper operation, the engine control unit incorrectly regulates the combustible mixture or injects and ignites fuel at all at the wrong time when it is necessary ...
Sometimes the fault or misinterpretation of the signals of one or another sensor is caused by electromagnetic interference from the starter and other electrical units. In this case, it is difficult to identify the malfunction, so it is possible that you will have to turn to specialists for advice.

Seal

The reliability of cars since the Zhiguli-Muscovite era, of course, has grown significantly. Therefore, many modern drivers do not even remember right away that they have to pull to open the hood. And one of the most common situations that baffle an inexperienced motorist is just this: the starter buzzes, but the engine is in no hurry to start. There can be quite a few reasons for this behavior of the car. The main ones are listed below. We've divided them into two categories. First, let's take a look at those that any beginner can handle:

Human factor:

Funniest Reason: Not a Drop of Fuel! It happens. And the treatment is understandable without comment.
You forgot to turn off the anti-theft device, which blocks, for example, only the fuel pump.
Clogged exhaust pipe. Kind people put a rag or a potato in it, or maybe you just drove into a snowdrift - there are many options. The exhaust pipe must be emptied.

All of the above, in general, is not a breakdown, and it can be solved in no time. Now let's look at the reasons associated with technical malfunction:

If the starter turns very slowly, then the reason may be thickened oil in the engine in the cold. Or maybe a discharged battery after a long stay or its heavily oxidized terminals. In this case, the voltage of the on-board network can sink so that the engine control unit refuses to work. Well, everything is clear here: the oil should be filled according to the season, the battery should be charged or replaced.
Something is frozen - water in the gas line, diesel fuel in the tank or filter. Look for a warm box!
Defective fuel pump. This is easy to verify, unless you are trying to start your car near a busy and noisy highway. If it is quiet around, then a sensitive ear is able to catch the absence of the characteristic buzzing of the fuel pump during the operation of the starter. In the best case, poor contact in the circuit is to blame, in the worst case you will have to replace the pump.
The flywheel crown turns. This sometimes happened on cars of previous years of production, up to the VAZ-2109. The Bendix can be heard grappling with the crown, and the crown squeals around on the flywheel. Flywheel replacement is coming.
The starter does not engage with the crown. Reason: wear of parts, chipped teeth, etc. When trying to start, teeth grinding is heard. Get ready to replace the ring or flywheel.
Bendix stuck. Either its drive flew, or the bendix itself - it doesn't matter. It is heard that the starter motor is turning at high rpm, but there are no more attempts to crank the engine. Get ready to repair or replace the starter itself.
Failure of the ignition system in gasoline cars. We check everything - candles, coils, wiring, etc.
Glow plugs do not work on a diesel car. The problem may be in the control unit as well as in the power relay. The candles themselves should also be checked - you will have to tinker with this.
The timing belt shattered to shreds. It’s easy to feel: it’s easy for the starter to turn. If you are lucky (the pistons did not meet the valves), it is enough to replace the belt, if not, then half the motor.
The timing belt jumped a few teeth, disrupting the correct valve timing. Again, in the best case, you will need to put the belt back in place, but in the worst case, expensive repairs await you.
Increased resistance to crankshaft rotation: scuffing on shafts, bearing shells, parts of the cylinder-piston group, deformation of the shafts. Check if the engine can be cranked when pushing the vehicle with the highest gear engaged in the manual transmission. With an automatic machine, you will have to try to crank the engine by the bolt of the accessory drive pulley. If the engine can be cranked relatively easily, then the search for the cause will have to be continued.
Jammed generator, power steering pump, air conditioning compressor. A defective unit prevents the engine from turning. To check, you can first see if the belt is straining too much when you try to crank the engine. If the suspicions are confirmed, then you can remove the accessory drive belt and try to get to the service station on your own. Of course, this will only work on cars where the coolant pump rotates the timing belt. With the pump inoperative, without the circulation of the coolant, even a cold engine will quickly boil.
At night they tried to steal your car, but something went wrong. As a result, the attackers dug around, broke something and disappeared in disgrace. Here, without diagnostics at the service station, the problem cannot be solved.

Often, car owners are faced with a situation when the starter works in its normal mode, and the car refuses to start. Such an unpleasant situation can be taken by surprise at the most inopportune moment. To quickly solve this problem, you should familiarize yourself with the main causes of such malfunctions and adopt the most effective methods of eliminating them.

Why with a working starter, the internal combustion engine may not start

Uninterrupted engine start is the result of well-coordinated work of all units and systems serving it. Each of them needs systematic care and diagnostics. Nevertheless, even when carrying out all the declared types of services, no one is safe from failures in their work.

So, problems with starting the engine, provided that the starter is working properly, can be caused by malfunctions:

ignition systems;
power supply systems;
cylinder-piston group.

Ignition system

According to the convictions of many experts, most of the malfunctions occur in the ignition system. In the presented case, first of all, it is advisable to check the spark supply. To make sure that the coil is emitting a spark, it is necessary to remove the central armor wire and bring it to the engine ground. If, when the ignition switch is turned in the "st" position, a spark jumps between the wire and the ground, everything is in order.

The next step is to check for sparking at the spark plug electrodes. This procedure is practically no different from the previous one. The candles are in turn brought to the mass, and if a stable spark discharge is traced on each of them, then this problem is excluded.

Difficulty starting the engine can also be affected by gaps in the spark plugs. If they are higher or lower than the set value, problems may arise with the ignition of the combustible mixture, which, one way or another, will affect the effective start of the motor.

If a contact ignition system is installed on the car, which is typical for outdated models, there is a possibility that the problem lies in the contact group. During operation, the contact surface burns out, which prevents the passage of current. In addition, you should monitor the gap between the contacts. It must match the set value.

An important role in this case is played by the distributor drive. Significant backlash in the seats indicates increased wear. Operation of this unit in this condition can cause serious interruptions in the operation of the engine.

Supply system

During operation, the elements of the power supply system are subject to mechanical wear and clogging. It should be noted that the timely replacement of consumables in this case will significantly reduce the likelihood of failure of the fuel system components.

One way or another, the diagnosis of malfunctions of this kind should be started by checking the fuel pump. If it is equipped with a manual priming mechanism, you can try manual priming. If the pump does not have such a function, then in order to make sure that it works, it should be dismantled. The main working element of the pump is the diaphragm. If external damage to its surface is observed, it will be replaced.

The quality of fuel in the vastness of our vast Motherland leaves much to be desired. In this regard, timely replacement of all filter elements should be carried out. It is possible that poor engine start is associated with a clogged fuel filter.

This issue should be treated responsibly:

check the mesh elements in the fuel pump, carburetor and fuel tank,
inspect the fine filter,
make sure the throughput of the fuel line.

Cylinder-piston group

A worn-out cylinder-piston group also negatively affects engine starting. The key indicator of a serviceable CPG is the presence of a set operating pressure at the time of the compression-compression stroke.

In order to check the compression, it is necessary to use a compressometer. This device is equipped with an indicator with a scale and a tube with a fitting. The latter is screwed in instead of the spark plug. When the engine is started, the pressure gauge registers the pressure in the cylinder.

By alternately checking the compression in each cylinder, we can conclude about the degree of wear of the CPG. On average, the compression of a gasoline engine should be about 10 -12 atmospheres.

Checking the ignition system and electronics

Checking the ignition system involves a certain sequence of actions. Such a step-by-step diagnostic principle allows you to significantly save time and quickly eliminate the malfunction.

This stage involves checking the following components and elements of the ignition system:

babina;
spark plug;
distributor (breaker-distributor);
distributor condenser.

The ignition coil is used to generate the high voltage required to ignite the working mixture. If she starts to be "naughty", the engine may not start. To make sure that it works, you need to "throw off" the central wire of the distributor and "short" it to the engine weight.

If a spark jumps, the coil is good. If not, the bobbin should be replaced. In most cases, coils deteriorate as a result of normal wear and tear. But, there are times when its "death" occurs after replacing high-voltage wires with non-standard analogs.

If the coil is not in doubt, we will observe the operation of the spark plugs. First you need to unscrew them and conduct a visual inspection. Particular attention should be paid to the working part where the electrodes are located. If the candles "lead a healthy lifestyle", their surface is distinguished by the presence of a barely noticeable bluish bloom.

If the electrodes are "smoked", the mixture is over-enriched. If the electrode is white, the engine is starved of fuel.

After a visual inspection, you need to make sure if the spark is coming from the distributor to the candles. Each candle is brought to the mass of the car at the minimum possible distance.

When cranking the engine with a starter, a spark discharge should occur in the gap between the electrode and the mass.

Trambler

One of the key ignition mechanisms that affect the effective start of the engine is the distributor.

Diagnostics of its performance is reduced to checking the following elements:

slider;
contact Group.

The slider is responsible for supplying a spark to the contacts of the spark plug wires. Therefore, if it fails, the spark will stop supplying directly to the spark plugs. It often happens that a resistor installed in its case burns out. In this case, after replacing it, the malfunction is eliminated.

The contact pair consists of a movable and a fixed contact. Each of them has the so-called "pyataks". During operation and external influences, they wear out and characteristic traces appear on their surface, the so-called shells. This significantly reduces the current carrying capacity, which negatively affects sparking. If the degree of wear is insignificant, the contacts are cleaned, after which a gap between them is set with a feeler gauge. When they are critically worn out, they must be replaced.

Capacitor

A capacitor is located on the distributor body. It is designed to generate more voltage on the secondary winding of the coil. It won't take much time to check if it works.

To do this, you should use a conventional 12V car bulb. A lamp is connected to the gap between the coil and the capacitor. If it is on, the capacitor is defective. The lamp does not light up - the capacitor is operational.

Malfunction of the fuel system

Most of the problems of this nature are caused by untimely replacement of fuel filters. As a rule, as a result of their clogging, the raw fuel flows through the bypass directly to the carburetor or, in the case of an injector, to the fuel injectors.

So, the revision of the fuel equipment and all consumable items should be carried out by checking the filter parts. To do this, it is enough to check the throughput of the fine filter, as well as to revise the fuel receiver installed in the tank of the car.

If replacing the filters did not lead to the desired result, it becomes necessary to check the following components of the power system:

gasoline pump;
carburetor;
nozzles.

Due to long-term operation, the diaphragm and the fuel pump valve can deplete their resource. Due to the fact that they are consumables, to eliminate such a malfunction, you will only need to replace them.

In the case of the carburetor, the situation is somewhat more complicated. To check its serviceability, you will need to remove at least its upper part. If there are trash particles in the float chamber in the form of heavy fractions, the carburetor needs a comprehensive cleaning. It involves purging its nozzles and channels.

In addition, due to the ingress of foreign particles into the cavity of the shut-off needle, there is a possibility that it has fused. Blowing out the duct with compressed air will solve this problem.

Malfunctioning injectors is often caused by clogged calibration holes.

A clear sign of such a defect is a low spray level of the nozzles. Simply put, the fuel is delivered unevenly, in the form of a jet. In this case, they need to be washed. It should be noted that comprehensive diagnostics of injector operation is performed only at a special stand.

What to do if the car won't start in winter

It is fraught with various difficulties. This is especially true for car owners, whose cars are forced to spend the winter in the open air.

In order to significantly facilitate starting the engine at subzero temperatures, you need to adhere to some requirements:

use synthetic lubricants declared by the manufacturer;
insulate the engine compartment with special means;
use pre-heaters and auxiliary devices;
depress the clutch pedal before starting the engine;
monitor the health (check the density, level and charge of the electrolyte).

What if the attempts to start the engine in severe frost were unsuccessful? Let's say the battery is still alive. In this case, you need to unscrew the candles and ignite them properly. If they are "smoked", then the owner pressed the gas pedal too hard and simply flooded them. So, the candles are calcined and screwed into the head.

Before starting, “ventilate” the intake manifold by holding the gas pedal in the fully depressed position for a few seconds. We twist the starter and observe the behavior of the engine, while the air damper should be closed by 1/3.

If after a short operation of the starter "flashes" appear, you should not "drive" the starter until you are completely exhausted. The attempt must be repeated after a while, gradually enriching the mixture by overlapping the carburetor working chamber with an air damper.

Effective starting of the engine depends on the correct operation of all its life support systems. Each system requires systematic maintenance and repair. Such diagnostic measures will eliminate the occurrence of unforeseen breakdowns and failures and will have the most favorable effect on the operation and starting of the engine, regardless of external factors.