The starter turns the car will not start. The starter motor turns the engine, but the engine does not start. Other diesel engine starting problems

When an automobile internal combustion engine runs smoothly, starts and stops properly, the owner of the car feels comfortable and does not think about possible problems. But if the car does not start, or the engine starts with great difficulty, you have to look for the causes of the malfunction. The engine can not start when the starter is running for a variety of reasons, ranging from the banal lack of fuel supply, and the defect can also be hidden in the wiring or engine control system. There are other breakdowns that prevent the internal combustion engine from starting up, and in this article we will consider in sufficient detail why the engine refuses to work in such cases.

Reasons for the lack of starting when the starter turns

When the starter turns, and the car does not start, while the bendix engages with the flywheel, the malfunction of the starting device is practically excluded here. It is also unlikely that the battery is to blame for the defect, and other factors should be taken into account for troubleshooting. So, the main reasons for the phenomenon when the starter turns, but there is no start:

• no fuel enters the cylinders;
• there is no spark in the ignition system;
• exhaust gases do not come out through the muffler;
• fuel overflow occurs;
• the air filter is clogged;
• candles are faulty;
• the burglar alarm fails (especially often the alarm with autostart blocks the operation of the internal combustion engine);
• the power unit itself is faulty.

For carburetor and injection internal combustion engines, diagnostics are performed in different ways, and since the device of a car with a carburetor is simpler than with an injector, it is relatively easy to look for the cause of the defect here. For an experienced driver, it is usually not difficult to detect a breakdown on a carburetor car, you just need to determine the sequence of actions for yourself in finding the cause.

The starter turns, the relay does not work

Another sign of a defect when starting the car: the starter is idling, the crankshaft is in place. In this case, the bendix no longer engages with the flywheel, and here, too, there are several breakdown options:

• the teeth of the bendix are worn out (broken);
• the solenoid relay (BP) does not work;
• bendix scrolls on the shaft.

If the starter turns, the relay does not work at the same time, most likely the contacts of the BP are burnt, there is not enough lubricant on the surface of the core. Also, a sign of a malfunction of the "retractor" can be repeated spinning (with buzzing) of the bendix idle, and the motor is grabbed only after several start attempts. The solution to the problem is achieved in two ways:

• replacement of the old BP with a new spare part;
• disassembling the relay with flushing the parts and cleaning the contacts.

If the car stalled somewhere far away on the track, stubbornly does not want to start (it drives in vain), you can try to start using "military tricks":

• when scrolling idle, without letting the bendix stop completely, turn the ignition key all the way to the right, repeat this several times;
• with the engine stopped, gently knock with a hammer on the body of the retractor relay, then try to start the motor;
• After turning on the ignition, close the contacts of the BP and the main "plus" on the starter with a screwdriver, not forgetting to put the car in neutral at the same time.

Also, the "idle" scrolling of the starting device can occur due to a worn out or broken plug (lever) of switching on the bendix, although such a malfunction is not typical, it does not occur so often.

The engine does not start, the relay clicks

Another variant of a defect when the internal combustion engine is turned on: when the key is turned all the way to the right, light clicks are heard, but the engine does not start. And in this case, there are several reasons for the malfunction:

• the contact relay installed in the break of the starter circuit has failed;
• the contact group of the ignition lock is faulty;
• poor contact in the connection of the wires going to the starting device;
• there is no reliable mass of the power unit with a body.

The fuse responsible for starting the internal combustion engine may also blow out, and with such signs the battery may still be discharged (dead). Diagnostics in cases when the relay clicks, but there is no motor start, always start with checking the battery's performance, first of all, measure the voltage at the terminals with a voltmeter with the engine off (should be within 12.4-12.8 Volts).

If the battery is working properly, then it is necessary to inspect the condition of the terminal wires and the terminals themselves on the battery, if there are oxides on them, clean the contacts with a metal brush or emery paper. Then it will not be superfluous to tighten all the nuts connecting the starting device with the electrical wiring (the main "plus", on the retractor relay), check if there is a good mass of the body with the engine.

Injector startup problem, diagnostics and fault finding

The distributed injection system (in other words, the injector) has a more complex device than the carburetor, because of this, troubleshooting in the absence of starting the internal combustion engine becomes more difficult. But there are no unsolvable tasks in the world, here you need to perform diagnostics using the chain check scheme:

• elements of the starting device (starter, its wiring, battery with terminals, relays, and so on);
• electronic engine control system (ECM);
• nodes and parts of the fuel system (TS).

All elements of the injector starting device are fundamentally no different from the carburetor circuit, and since we have already considered all the causes and signs of starter defects, we will not return to this issue. Therefore, we will analyze how the ECM affects a difficult start, and where you need to start its diagnostics.

Diagnostics of the electronic control system of the injection engine

If the "launcher" turns, and the car does not start well or does not start at all, first of all we make an external examination of the high-voltage wires and the ignition module: there should be no cracks, traces of burnout, material stratification, and so on. Then we find out if there is a spark, for this:

As a precaution, it is recommended to disconnect the connectors with the wires that fit the fuel injectors. If there is no spark, this may be the result of a faulty coil, engine control unit, breaks or bad contacts in the wiring are also possible, and the immobilizer that blocks the ignition is often to blame for the absence of a spark. It will also not be superfluous to check the plugs themselves under pressure on a special device, clean them with sandblasting or manually before reinstalling them.

The injection engine may not start due to the breakdown of some sensors, but not all of them affect the start of the internal combustion engine. The car will absolutely not start with a faulty crankshaft position sensor, and if there is no good contact in the wires that fit to it (there is an open circuit). Bad start-up (or lack thereof) occurs due to sensors:

• temperature;
• throttle valve;
• air consumption;
• idle speed regulator.

All malfunctions of the listed parts are determined using diagnostics on a special scanner or computer, the worst option if the ECM is defective. Its performance can only be checked by replacing it with a known good ECU, and the ignition module with hidden defects is checked in the same way.

Unstable start of the injection motor due to the power system

With a fully functional starter and ECM, we proceed to diagnose the elements of the vehicle, first of all, we check the condition of the air filter (it should not be clogged). Then you should make sure that the fuel pump pumps and supplies fuel; when the injection engine is cold started, its operation can be heard immediately after the ignition is turned on (the pump “buzzes” for several seconds, its noise stops on subsequent attempts to start). The electric petrol pump will not supply gasoline if:

• the fuse responsible for the integrity of this electrical circuit has blown;
• the fuel pump relay does not work;
• there is an open in the power wires (no plus or minus);
• the electric pump itself is faulty.

Also, the pump may not provide the pressure required for the system; in order to check it, a dial gauge should be connected to the fuel rail. The working pressure in the vehicle should be in the range from 2.0 to 6.0 bar, depending on the type (model) of the internal combustion engine and the number of revolutions; when the fuel hose is pinched, it can rise to 7 bar. By the way, if the fuel pressure regulator is faulty, and in this case there may be no normal fuel supply, as a result the engine will not start either. Another reason for poor gas flow along the highway is a completely clogged fuel filter. After making sure that the fuel supply is normal, we check if there is the necessary power supply to open the fuel injectors, there are two options for checking:

When the starter is spinning, the carburetor engine does not start

If a carburetor car does not start with a working starting device, a spark may also disappear here, fuel supply problems may arise, but the data of the ignition and power systems differ from the injection systems. The most common defects in cars with a carburetor:

• the mechanical fuel pump does not supply fuel, the most common malfunctions of this unit are a punctured diaphragm, valve leaks;
• the switch does not work;
• the ignition coil overheats;
• the carburetor overflows fuel;
• the central high-voltage wire is broken;
• there is mechanical damage or there are burnouts on the distributor cover;
• defective candles.

If a contact ignition system is installed on the machine, it is necessary to check the gap between the contacts in the distributor, the condition of the contact surfaces, and the serviceability of the capacitor. It should be borne in mind that if the wire suitable for the capacitor is cut off, the car will also not start, another common defect is the sticking or burning of coal in the distributor cover.

The starter is turning, but there is no start due to a malfunction of the engine itself

The car may not start if the power unit itself is faulty, here are the main problems:

• violation of the valve timing (jumped the chain or timing belt);
• due to coagulated low-quality engine oil, valves are stuck and do not close;
• there is no compression in the cylinders, most often this is due to the occurrence of piston rings;
• the head gasket is broken (usually the motor stops starting when it overheats);
• there are cracks in the cylinder head.

On engines with a lower camshaft (for example, ZMZ-402), the motor stops working when the camshaft teeth break, which occurs as a result of their wear. On engines with overhead camshafts, the timing belt often breaks, and if, due to the design features of the valve, they "meet" the pistons, this leads to a rather serious repair of the internal combustion engine (it is necessary to change the valves, and sometimes even the pistons and the block head).

And, finally, the rarest option for the lack of starting when the starter is spinning is blocking the exhaust gas outlet in the exhaust system, here the cause may be freezing of water in the exhaust pipe, a partition in the resonator or muffler torn off inside, which also blocked the outlet. In such cases, the internal combustion engine starts up and immediately stalls, and there is no smoke from the rear pipe at all, there is no air pressure.

Each of the drivers should be familiar with the situation when, when turning the key, the power unit unexpectedly does not start, the starter does not turn, the characteristic click is not heard, from which the operation of the retractor relay begins. Since this problem is one of the most common, it is imperative to know the causes of its occurrence, how to diagnose and fix it.

Typical problems with the starting system of a car engine

The main reason that the engine does not start, the starter does not turn, is a low battery charge. This can manifest itself as follows:

1. The gauges on the dashboard and the power unit stop responding when the ignition is turned on. It is quite possible that there is no contact on some part of the car's electrical network, or the terminals are not securely attached to the batteries. As a rule, after eliminating these problems, the vehicle engine starts easily.
2. If the starter does not work, and there is no backlight on the dashboard, and there is no response from its sensors, this is evidence of a low charge or complete discharge of the battery.

It also happens that the solenoid relay clicks during autostart, while the starter does not work and does not turn the crankshaft of the power unit due to the incorrect position of the terminals on the relay, or sticking contacts. In the first case, it is enough to simply fix them, and in the second, to clean the carbon deposits, dirt and remove the collected oxidations from their surface. Next, it is worth trying to start the engine again. If this fails, it is most likely that the charge of the power source is not enough to crank the starter.

It is necessary to consider a situation in which the ignition turns on, and the starter does not turn, but the battery is fully charged. Most modern vehicles have special anti-theft devices - immobilizers, the purpose of which is to disable the circuits responsible for starting the engine. It is worth making sure that they are disabled or not on the car. Otherwise, it will not be possible to solve the problem without the help of an auto electrician. This problem is especially common on modern foreign cars, starting from 2008.

Starter problems

When the battery has a good charge, and the immobilizer is turned off, and the engine cannot be started, this is direct evidence of a malfunction of the starter. If, when the ignition is turned on, the starter motor does not start, while characteristic clicks are heard, this indicates that only its traction relay is triggered. The appearance of a ringing knock in the engine compartment indicates that the starter retractor relay is faulty, due to which the bendix and the flywheel do not engage with each other, making it impossible to start the car engine. To diagnose this malfunction of the retractor, and start the power unit, you can close both contacts on the relay using a powerful screwdriver with a well-insulated handle.

Important! Be sure to engage neutral before performing this procedure on your vehicle.

If the launch is successful, then the retractor is faulty. Perhaps the reason lies in the burning of his dimes. Most car owners think that this starter element is not repairable, and if it fails, only a replacement will save the situation. It is enough to remove the relay, then disassemble and remove the round dimes, which must be cleaned with sandpaper, assemble the device and install it back. Note that the dimes have a special anti-corrosion coating, so cleaning them on emery is an exclusively temporary measure.

If the starter does not work, it is likely that no voltage is supplied to its terminals. In the engine starting system of most vehicles, a special relay is provided, the purpose of which is to reduce the starting current. It can suddenly stop functioning, making it impossible to supply voltage to the starter terminals. A temporary solution to this problem along the way will be the installation of any similar element, for example, a rear window defogger relay.

The wear of the starter brushes is also the reason why the engine cannot be started, or it will turn on every other time. Burning or short-circuiting the winding turns completely destroys the element. In this case, you cannot do without replacing it. It can also jam the shaft of the part, for example, due to the depletion of its bearings or misalignment.

Problems with the solenoid relay

Sometimes, when the ignition is turned on, only this relay is immediately triggered, respectively, the circuit remains open. You can try to close the traction contacts, but this does not help in all cases. The appearance of a third-party crunchy noise in the area of ​​the engine compartment is evidence of a malfunction of the bendix. This element is made in the form of a small gear and is located on the rotor shaft. The solenoid relay is triggered when voltage is applied to it, controlling the movement of the bendix, as a result of which it engages with the flywheel. The wear of this part makes it impossible to perform this procedure, since its worn-out parts cannot aggregate with the flywheel teeth, and this is the reason for the appearance of a strong crunch.

What to do if the car stalled on the move, and does not start, the starter does not turn

Every vehicle owner has faced this unpleasant situation. The difficulty still lies in how to understand the reason for the impossibility of starting the motor without finding the car in the garage box. Often the way out of this situation is a banal start of the power unit from the car's pusher, but if this does not help, you cannot do without expensive tow truck services, or you can fix the problem on the way yourself.

If the car stalls while driving, when starting the power unit, you need to pay attention to how much the starter rotation speed has increased. This is especially true for motors with a belt drive of a gas distribution mechanism, and in some cases it is applicable to a chain drive. If the speed of rotation of the starter increased, while the power unit of the car does not start, a possible reason for this is a broken belt or timing chain.

Consider a situation in which the starter motor hums but does not turn the engine. The most common malfunctions of this are considered to be problems with the wiring of the traction relay, damage to the gear and wear of its teeth, incorrect operation of the bendix.

Let's describe the features of these faults:

• damage to the gear, as a result of which deviations in its operation appear. Since the gear wears out over time, its teeth can no longer properly aggregate with the flywheel. The increased production of starter elements, in addition to the natural aging of the metal, is caused by an incorrect operation of the unit (when the driver unsuccessfully activates the starter for a long time), a mismatch in the type of engine oil recommended by the vehicle manufacturer in winter. This causes the lubricant inside the engine to become too thick, interfering with the normal operation of all parts of the unit. As soon as the wear of the teeth reaches a critical limit, they will no longer mesh with the flywheel, and there will be a crackling sound during engine start-up, and it will not be possible to start it;
• gear skew, due to which the working part of the starter drive does not fully mesh with the flywheel. This is characterized by the appearance of a metallic grinding in the area of ​​the engine compartment, and during prolonged exposure to the starter, its elements fail;
• the car does not start, the starter does not turn also due to the presence of a malfunction of the plug. If this part is damaged, the drive gear will remain stationary when the retractor relay is activated, therefore, it will not engage with the crankshaft, and the power unit will not start;
• lack of electrical power, which occurs due to a violation of the integrity of the wiring in the car, failure of the starter brushes, oxidation and burning of contacts and terminals. All this prevents the flywheel from gaining the necessary speed. This is evidenced by a change in the speed of rotation of the starter.

Such malfunctions are characterized by different sounds emitted by the starter during its operation. For example, a characteristic metallic ringing, which turns into a crackling sound after a certain period of time, indicates the presence of problems at the junction of the gear and flywheel. If the gear is worn out, the entire assembly must be replaced. If it is in a satisfactory condition, the cause of the problem is inside the unit (for example, bearing wear, wiring faults, plug failure, etc.).

Briefly about what is written above

As you can see, there are not so many reasons why the starter does not turn, and all of them practically do not depend on each other. Malfunctions of a car engine starter can be caused both by the natural aging process of the metal from which its elements are made, by improper operation, and by third-party factors, consisting in the correct choice of motor lubricant.

The starter does not belong to the category of expensive auto parts. But this does not mean at all that in the event of a breakdown, it is imperative to purchase a new element. You can save a lot by determining the cause of its malfunction and eliminating it. The ideal option would be to diagnose the performance of the starter on a special stand.

Problems that become noticeable when starting the engine are considered a fairly common problem among car owners. These include the situation when, after turning the key and turning on the ignition system, the starter turns, but does not start. You can find the reasons for such a malfunction yourself, without contacting a service center.

Possible reasons

The difficulty in diagnosing breakdowns of this kind lies in finding the area where the problem is localized. To find it, you should check some parts of the car.

Candles, battery and fuel filters

The spark plugs create sparks that ignite the air-fuel mixture in the engine cylinders. If this part becomes unusable or becomes covered with accumulated carbon deposits, this can lead to the fact that the starter turns, but does not start.

If the battery reaches zero charge, the car will not be able to start therefore it is best to always keep this part in optimum condition.

Fuel filters are a part of the machine that is necessary to filter out some of the dust and rust. Thanks to their work, refined gasoline enters the system. If, for some reason, the filters fail, the engine may not start when the starter is turned on.

Terminals, damper and fuses

Special attention should be paid to the battery terminals, as new drivers may forget about their condition. If this part oxidizes, a problem may occur.

The throttle valve acts as a mechanical regulator of the flow area of ​​the channel, which is necessary to regulate the level of its medium. A starter problem can be caused by a blockage in this part.

Fuses - The cause of the problem may be a violation of their integrity.

Tank and exhaust pipe

The gasoline level in the tank is measured by a special sensor equipped with a float. If the mechanism is defective, an arrow on the dashboard will indicate that there is fuel, although the container remains completely "dry". In such a situation, the motor cannot be started in any way.

If there is a foreign object in the exhaust pipe left by an ill-wisher, the engine may not start. The same consequences are obtained if the driver accidentally stuck the pipe into a snowdrift or soil, backing it up.

Condensation and oxygen ingress

Idle operation of the starter can be triggered by the appearance of condensation under the hood due to the air conditioner or corrosion on the parts included in the electrical circuit. In addition, at sub-zero temperatures the engine may also not start due to the ingress of water into any parts and its freezing... In this case, warm up the car.

The cause of the malfunction may also be the leakage of oxygen into the fuel supply system, especially this applies to diesel engines. They often undergo paraffinization - diesel fuel freezes, since this fuel is simply not able to be pumped through the system in such a state.

In addition, cold weather can flood the spark plugs, resulting in no spark. In some situations, this helps to carry out the "drying" of such parts. Disconnect the high-voltage wires from the candles, and then rotate the starter for a while.

Quite often, a problem can arise due to active movement through puddles or regular washing of the engine compartment contents. Moisture can enter the equipment and motor, causing electronics to malfunction.

This can be avoided by being careful when washing the engine or driving in rainy weather.

Troubleshooting

Although there can be many reasons why the car does not start, but the starter turns, most often a similar problem occurs due to incorrect operation of the ignition and fuel supply systems. They should be checked when no jerks or strange overtones are heard when turning the key. If any, you should check the starter itself, because it may be defective.

Ignition performance

To diagnose the ignition system, unscrew one of the spark plugs and make sure there is a spark. A high-voltage wire should be put on the removed part, then touch the metal part of the motor with its skirt. If a spark is visible when the engine rotates, plug replacement is not required and the problem should be looked for elsewhere.

The absence of a spark indicates a malfunction of various localization. In injection machines, you should pay attention to the ignition module, because the cause of the malfunction lies in it, and in carburetor models it is better to check the coil.

It is rather difficult to check the ignition module on your own due to its design, but with the coil, the situation is simpler. It is necessary to get the main wire of the distributor cover and pull it about 5 mm to the metal part of the engine, while avoiding touching it. Next, you need to turn the engine with a starter. If there is no spark, then the coil is faulty.

If there is a spark, you should start checking the distributor by removing its cover. If all other parts of the ignition system are working properly, the reason lies precisely in it. Make sure that this part of the car is free of defects and corrosion. The absence of damage to the distributor indicates the need to look for the cause of the problem in other systems.

It is worth noting that in most cases the problem when the starter turns and the car does not start is precisely the ignition of the car, therefore it is necessary to check this system especially carefully.

Fuel supply

The fuel supply system should be checked in stages in order to gradually exclude malfunctions of individual parts. It is better to diagnose all elements in the following sequence:

• electric fuel pump;
• mechanical fuel pump;
• injector or carburetor, depending on the type of vehicle;
• fuel filters;
• gasoline supply lines.

In injection-type machines, when the ignition system is turned on, a sound should be heard from the operating electric fuel pump. If this sound is absent in the passenger compartment, you should check the pump motor - it could either burn out or not receive the voltage required for operation. Its safety system is also diagnosed.

Cars that have a carburetor are more difficult to check, because the pump has a drive from the distribution shaft. Because of this, when diagnosing, disconnect the end of the hose and the inlet connection. After that, you need to start the pump priming lever several times - if everything is in order with it, fuel will flow from the fitting or hose.

Additionally, it is worth checking the fuel filter, making sure that there are no blockages in it, otherwise the fuel will not be able to pump normally through the mechanisms. Next, the throttle valve is checked, which should be cleaned if it is clogged.

If the car runs on a diesel engine, it will not be possible to diagnose and repair the problem on your own. This is due to the fact that in such models, the fuel is supplied at a higher pressure compared to gasoline engines, which is why a complex pump design and a special shape of the nozzles are used.

In most cases, checking the ignition and fuel supply systems solves the problem when the car does not start and the starter turns. If, with this diagnosis, the problem was not found, the relay should be checked. You need to look for his problems according to the following scheme:

1. Carefully remove the retraction relay from under the hood.
2. Thoroughly clean the starter from dirt, dust and other debris.
3. In the presence of oxidized contacts, treat them with fine-grained emery paper.
4. Place the removed part close to the car battery and find 2 wires of the required length. Better to use wires with crocodiles.
5. One motor is used to connect the positive terminal of the battery to the same output on the retraction relay. Contacts with a negative charge are connected with another wire.

When connecting the relay to the wire, a characteristic click of the charge should be heard. This sound indicates the serviceability of the relay, therefore, if everything is in order, the part should be returned to its place.

Otherwise, the mechanism must be repaired or replaced. To carry out repairs, first disconnect its power supply from the battery, and then unscrew the rods from the bolt and remove the contact. Next, you can unscrew the screws used to connect the relay to ground, and then pull out the part. After removing the end nuts, the retractor relay is divided into 2 parts, then the core is removed from it and a new one is installed in its place.

The assembly is carried out in the reverse order, and then the relay is mounted back to the vehicle. Now you need to check its performance.

It is worth noting that in the models of some car manufacturers, relays with solid structures are used for configuration. They cannot be disassembled, and in case of malfunction, this unit must be completely replaced.

Checking other details

If a check has been carried out on all systems that most often lead to a problem when the starter turns, but does not grasp, you should pay attention to other details. The first of them is better to check the crankshaft position sensor.

For this, a thorough diagnostics of electrical circuits and their elements is carried out. A blown fuse, a break in the power supply system, a breakdown of the control relay, an oxidation process, corrosion or damage to the contacts can lead to malfunctions.

Failure can occur in ECM sensors interacting with the ECU. It is not uncommon for a faulty sensor to send incorrect signals to the control unit. Because of this, the operation of the ECU is disrupted - it cannot normally regulate the composition of the fuel-air mixture, which leads to failures in the fuel supply.

Also, the problem can be caused by electromagnetic interference going to the crankshaft sensor from the starter, which prevents the electronic device from creating the correct signal to the ECU. Under such operating conditions, the DPKV engine will not start, although the fuel supply will be normal, and the starter will rotate the crankshaft well.

If the timing belt is torn, stretched or jumped a few teeth, this can also cause a failure in the valve timing. In this case, you need to replace the part and set it according to the marks. If the malfunction has led to the meeting of the valves with the pistons, you will have to change the engine.

Additionally, you should check the operation of the car alarm. It is capable of blocking the start of the engine due to failures that have occurred in the main unit or an additional immobilizer.

A possible malfunction could be a problem with the ignition switch. To check, turn on the headlights. If they fade or go out when you try to start the motor, then the part is in good order.

In some cases, it happens that the starter works, but turns in jerks. A similar sign indicates insufficient contact of the contacts. This is usually due to the installation of poor quality electrical wiring. The engine may also not start if the starter clicks. This means that he has broken contacts. This problem indicates a malfunction of the solenoid relay.

It is much worse if after turning the key nothing happens: the starter does not even turn. You can understand this by the absence of characteristic sounds and clicks. With such a problem, it is better to consult a specialist.

By turning the key in the ignition, the driver is accustomed to seeing a repeating pattern. First, the dashboard lights up, it displays the current battery charge and the amount of fuel in the car's tank. After that, the starter is activated and the crankshaft begins to rotate.

If the engine is in good working order, then after a few crankshaft revolutions the engine will start. But sometimes the following situation occurs: the starter turns, but the car is definitely not going to start. What to do in this case? A variety of situations can be the culprit, so you need to start looking for what happened.

In this article, we will analyze the most common problems that lead to the fact that the engine will not start. We will try to tell you in as much detail as possible about the problems that the car owner may face.

The combustion engine only runs if the following conditions are met:

1. A sufficient amount of a mixture of fuel and air enters the engine cylinders.
2. At the right time (or, to be more precise, after the air-fuel mixture has compressed), the spark plug gives off a high-power spark.
3. The camshaft and crankshaft rotate at the required frequency, which is strictly selected. Only in this way the gas distribution system works correctly and the chambers are filled with a combustible mixture in a timely manner.

When the driver turns the ignition key, voltage is applied to the starter relay, thus activating the electric motor. Its function is to engage the flywheel with the crankshaft. Then the crankshaft begins to rotate, its angular momentum is converted into reciprocating movements of the pistons.

When the cylinders begin their work, then later this leads to the movement of the camshaft. The latter is needed in order to timely open the valves to fill the combustion chambers with a mixture.

Camshaft

The ICE power supply system is responsible for the timely delivery of the combustible mixture. As soon as the piston moves to the top compression point, a high voltage is applied to the spark. Thus, when the mixture is ignited, a small explosion is created, the expanded gases act on the piston and it moves by moving the crankshaft. We have described the principle of starting an internal combustion engine, remember that engine modifications can be different, so the starting algorithm may differ.

Internal combustion engine operation

In almost 50% of cases, the engine refuses to start due to the fault of the starter, that is, it may be faulty. Another part of the situations occurs when the engine cranks the crankshaft properly, but the engine starts after several attempts. But it also happens that the engine does not start at all, the reasons may be different, so you need to study the common causes of malfunctions.

Driver's carelessness

The human factor can play a cruel joke and you can simply harm your car. Let's say you forgot to go to a gas station or didn't turn off the alarm. In the first case, everything is clear - if there is no fuel in the tank, then it will not enter the cylinders. And in the second example, if you forget to turn off the alarm, the gas pump will be deactivated and it will not be able to pump the mixture into the engine.

It also happens that some intruder plugged the exhaust pipe of the car, and then the engine will also not start. Sometimes this happens due to the driver's negligence, for example, when returning the car, it buried itself in the ground and the pipe was clogged with earth. Such circumstances are not among the technical malfunctions, but you will definitely spend a lot of nerves on it.

Starter problems

Even an inexperienced motorist will be able to determine by sound how the starter works. By the sound, you can easily understand how the starter turns the engine, and many motorists have encountered the hum of the starter, this happens in the absence of contact with the flywheel.

Car starter

Before disassembling half of the car, you must first check if the starter is working properly. We advise you to make sure that there are no foreign clicks and knocks when it is fully functioning.

The starter can be recognized as faulty in the following cases:

Fuel system malfunctions

Even the most serviceable starter and a brand new battery will not be able to start the car if there are difficulties with the fuel supply. Next, we will analyze in detail what needs to be checked in the fuel system, and how to quickly find a malfunction.

Fuel pump

In carburetor and diesel engines, this unit is located almost next to the cylinder blocks. The injection engines are equipped with an electric pump, it is installed directly in the fuel tank. Its correct operation can be judged by a short vibration after turning on the ignition.

Fuel pump

If we consider carburetor ICEs, then they have a mechanical cam drive on the camshaft. It is not difficult to check the operability yourself; for this, disconnect the hose from the inlet fitting and lower it into any container. Next, pump up a little fuel with the manual pumping lever, and after that you can already start the starter. If the result is negative and fuel is not pumped, then clean the mesh located at the top of the pump.

If this does not help, then carefully examine the membrane and the valves of the gasoline pump. When all damaged parts are replaced, the pump functionality will be fully restored.

Fuel filters

On the way of delivering fuel from the tank to the engine, there are several filtering units: coarse nets (they are located in the fuel receiver, on the gasoline pump and carburetor). And also there are paper filters throughout the fuel line, they are needed to remove fine particles, if any, come across in the fuel. Therefore, if fuel does not enter the cylinders, then check all filters. If a completely clogged filter is found, it should be replaced with a new one.

Fuel filter for VAZ 2110

Fuel filter

Injectors and choke

All gasoline engines run on a mixture of air and fuel, it is prepared in the carburetor or in the manifold (on injection vehicles). In the first embodiment, the liquid passes through a system of nozzles, channels and nozzles. In the second case, fuel is supplied by injectors according to signals that come from an electronic control unit (ECU).

The air supply is regulated by a throttle valve, depending on the design, it can be mechanically or electrically controlled. If possible, disassemble this entire unit, we also recommend cleaning the throttle itself. In addition, we advise you to check whether the engine is getting fuel - to do this, press on the union spool. In this case, gasoline should be sprayed under high pressure, if the pressure is too low, then the filters and the fuel line must be checked.

Throttle valve in different positions

On a carburetor engine, it should be judged by a sharp opening of the throttle, while a portion of the fuel mixture will be sprayed. Remember, on gasoline engines, the spark plugs must not be dry. To do this, carefully unscrew them and inspect; a small layer of the fuel mixture should be visible on them. If some candles are completely dry, then you need to check if a signal is being sent to the control nozzles, you can do this with a multimeter.

On gasoline engines, the spark plugs must not be dry.

If there is a signal at the injectors, the ramp must be moved back in order to gain access to the injectors. If gasoline is not sprayed or it flows in a weak trickle, then this indicates that it is clogged. Therefore, it should be replaced, but if you cannot get new ones, then as a temporary option - they can be cleaned.

Injector ramp

As for diesel internal combustion engines, here the unit is responsible for preparing the fuel mixture - a high-pressure fuel pump. If there is a problem with nozzles of this design, then it is better to contact a specialized service, since you will need professional equipment.

Electronic system problems

To test the ignition system, it is necessary to remove the spark plug from one cylinder. Before turning on the ignition, make sure that the candles touch the cylinder head with a skirt. Then we try to start the car, a purple or blue spark should appear on the candle. If the spark is absent or too weak, then you need to check if the ECU and ignition coils are functioning normally.

Spark on spark plugs

Other causes of difficulty starting the engine when the starter is running

• Torn, slipped a few teeth or weakened the timing belt. In such a situation, the phases of gas distribution are most often lost. For this reason, the engine will not be able to start. To solve this problem, the belt should be adjusted correctly for the risks. If you align the belt correctly, the engine will work again. The only terrible thing that can happen is if, after jumping over the belt, the valve and the piston meet. This situation will disable the engine and you will have to make major repairs to the engine.

  

  Timing belt

• One of the attachments turned out to be jammed, for this reason, there will be strong resistance to the rotation of the shaft. To find in which link exactly the problem is, first you need to loosen and remove the timing belt. Then you need to manually crank the pump, generator or power steering pump. It is worth noting that it will be possible to get to the service station only if the pump is driven by a belt.
• The rotation of the crankshaft is carried out with a noticeable effort, the reason for this may be mechanical defects, for example, the connecting rod is broken or the piston group has serious defects... Check how the engine rotates, to do this, set a high gear and drag the car a little in tow. If nothing interferes with the rotation and it is carried out smoothly, then this is not the problem.

  

  Broken connecting rod

• The failure is sometimes caused by electromagnetic interference, for example, from a starter or other components. In this case, it will be very difficult to clearly understand where the cause of the malfunction is hiding, so it is worth contacting specialists.
• Failure of sensors(Crankshaft position sensor, Hall sensor). If they fail, the wrong amount of combustible mixture will enter the engine, and ignition will also occur at the wrong time. All this will lead to the fact that soon the engine will begin to kill itself, so it is important to monitor the status of the sensors.

  

  Hall Sensor

Now you know for what reasons the engine may not start. If you find the reason, but you do not have the proper skills, then it is better to contact a specialized car service. Try to monitor the health of your car so that in the future you do not have to overhaul the internal combustion engine. We wish you good roads!

Starter grabs, but car won't start. What to do?

Turning the key, rattling the starter and ... the engine does not start. Sooner or later, every car owner faces such a problem. What to do in this situation?

In general, there are a lot of reasons why the engine may not start, and it is impossible to consider all of them in one article. However, there are “basic” conditions that are required for a successful launch. We will discuss them now.

A successful start requires a fuel supply at operating pressure, air and a timely spark. It is also extremely important to prepare the correct air / fuel mixture. These conditions should be checked first when the engine refused to start.

Checking the candles and spark

If the engine does not start within five seconds, it is useless to turn the starter. You can try to start it again, but this is unlikely to be of any use. Moreover, excessively long starter operation can lead to overheating and even fire.

If you try to start the carburetor engine for a long time, then the gasoline will flood the candles and make further start attempts impossible in principle. The injectors have a purge mode, so the candles can be dried without removing them from the car - you just need to press the gas pedal to the floor and turn the starter.

But these are half measures. First of all, you should unscrew at least one candle, put the wire on it again and position the candle on the engine so that there is a distance of about three millimeters between the metal part of the spark plug and the metal of the engine. Turn on the starter and make sure that a uniform spark jumps between the spark plug contacts. Check each candle like this. If there is no spark on any spark plug, then there are global problems in the ignition system.

It can be:

General faults:

• Defective candles (carbon deposits, destruction of the insulator)
• High-voltage wires are faulty (insulation is broken, current flows "to the left", not reaching the candle)

For injectors:

• Defective ignition module
• There is no power to the ignition module. Power is supplied from the engine control unit, but the signal to the unit comes from the ignition switch. Therefore, it is possible.
• Defective engine control unit

Ignition control system errors are usually visible during diagnostics and cause the Check Engine lamp to turn on.

For carburetors:

• Hanging contact coal in the cover of the ignition distributor (distributor)
• Burnout of the resistor in the distributor rotor (in the distributor slider)
• Burning up or backlash of the contact group (for contact ignition)
• Switch malfunction (for contactless ignition)
• Ignition coil defective
• Lack of power on the coil. The coil is powered through the ignition switch, so it's worth checking it

When there is no spark on only one spark plug, you need to replace this spark plug with a new one or change its high-voltage wire. Too wet candles also need to be replaced with new ones, or at least dried in a flame. This is necessary because the current will not be able to pass through the wet contacts and there will be no spark.

If there is a spark on all the candles, check the fuel supply.

Checking the gas supply

You can indirectly determine the supply of gasoline to the cylinders by the appearance of the spark plug. If the plug unscrewed from the cylinder is wet and smells of gasoline, then everything is in order with the fuel supply. However, it is better to be convinced of this more reliably.

On injection engines to do this, you need to relieve pressure in the fuel system using a special valve at the end of the fuel rail. Unscrew the cap and press on the valve with a screwdriver. Gasoline should spray out from under the valve. Then release the valve and turn on the ignition. At this time, the fuel pump must start working, restoring the released pressure in the system. If the pump is silent, turn on the starter. When and with the starter on, the pump does not work, most likely there is a malfunction in its power supply system.

If the pump has started working, then we again check the pressure in the fuel system, dumping it through the same valve in the rail. Once again, splashing gasoline indicates that everything is in order with the fuel supply system. When gasoline does not splash and does not appear from under the valve at all, we can talk about a faulty fuel pressure regulator in the rail (it constantly bleeds gasoline through the return line to the tank) or some kind of plug in the main fuel line (for example, due to freezing of water in low-quality fuel ).

On carburetor engines checking the fuel supply is much easier. It is enough to remove the air filter cover, move the throttle lever of the first carburetor chamber, simulating pressing the gas pedal and see if gasoline is sprinkling from the spray nozzle. You can pump gasoline into the carburetor using the manual pumping lever, which is found on all mechanical gasoline pumps.

Checking the air supply

In the air supply system, malfunctions are extremely rare and are reduced either to a tightly clogged air filter or to a blockage of the air channel with a foreign object. Such malfunctions are unlikely to occur in a well-maintained personal vehicle. But if the car is, for example, a service car or was recently purchased, it will not be superfluous to make sure that the filter is intact, and a rag after a recent repair is not stuck in the channel.

These are basic steps you can take quickly when the engine won't start. If there is a spark on all the candles, gasoline enters the engine and everything is in order with the air supply system, you need to "go deeper".

As already mentioned at the beginning of the material, it is difficult to describe all the reasons why the engine may not start within the framework of one article. Therefore, we will give only a general list.

• Starter does not develop starting speed
• Insufficient voltage of the vehicle electrical system (weak battery)
• Lack of compression in the engine cylinders (piston rings are worn out, valves are stuck)
• Violation of the valve timing (the timing belt broke or jumped one / several teeth)
• There is no signal from the crankshaft position sensor or other "vital" sensors of the injection system.
• Malfunction of the engine control unit

Other. The search for such faults is already more difficult to carry out in the street, especially if it happens in winter. You need to take the car in tow and pull it to a garage or car service.