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Greek dress without a pattern. 3 ways to sew yourself

Your aim- These are light flowing fabrics (muslin, satin, silk, jersey, thin knitwear, velvet). The fabric should be fluid, thin, easy to fit into soft folds and not wrinkle much.

(By the way, please note that among the flowing fabrics, you can find those that do not crumble on the cut, then you will not need to process the edges after sewing the dress.) The length of the cut must be at least 3 meters.

We will create a dress in the Greek style ourselves. And no patterns! Just a flight of fancy and a mirror. And every woman must have both.

You do not have sewing machine? So to create a Greek dress, it is not particularly needed.

Have you never sewed anything? And the Greek dress does not need to be “sewn” in the generally accepted sense of the word (with drawings of patterns, darts and darts).

Method One: "Wrap Up and Tie Up"

Here is a visual diagram:

Two decorative pins on the shoulders and tie with a ribbon at the waist or under the bust.

Of course, this simplified version of the dress will swing open in any wind. Therefore, it is this model that will be appropriate at a beach resort over a swimsuit.

And in order to make a full-fledged Greek dress out of this, all you need to do is sew the sashes of the dress along its right side from bottom to top so that the body does not look out. The result is an elegant outfit in the Greek style.

This model is good because, while not fitting the body at all, it nevertheless emphasizes the beauty of its curves, thanks to the fluidity of the fabric, seductively flowing over the body. And according to this method of modeling, completely different dresses can turn out, depending on what color and quality of fabric you will use to create them.

For example: ivory satin, a string of river pearls around the wrist, a discreet but exquisite brooch on the shoulder made of the same pearl, hair scattered over the shoulders - and you get the image of a young Aphrodite emerging from the foam of the sea, and your wardrobe is replenished with a fashionable day-type Greek dress .

Or the same model: black silk, a brooch on the shoulder and a gold-colored bracelet, smoky eye makeup - and this is an evening look of a formidable goddess.

The second way: drapery on the body

The great French fashion designer Madame Gré created her dresses in the Greek style, draping them by hand on the body of the model. Her way of making antique dress became classic, and her clients included Grace Kelly, Jacqueline Kennedy, Marlene Dietrich and Barbara Streisand.

As the ancient Greeks used to say: “Not the gods burn the pots,” and we will try ourselves as a fashion designer.

Here is a picture of a Greek dress made from a single piece of fabric.

High-fashion? Yes, high, but not so high that we could not reach it.

What do you need: the fabric is a little more than 2 times your height from heels to shoulders (if you want a dress to the floor). A decorative braid or ribbon of such length that it is enough to wrap around itself under the chest and at the waist twice.

Let's start. They spread the fabric on the floor, found the middle on it and drew a line in chalk. This line will lie on your shoulders.

Now in the center you need to make a hole for the head - draw a perpendicular line (about 15 cm to start with, so that the head crawls through) and cut it with scissors.

We put our head in the hole, and now we need to decide to what level we will deepen the neckline. ( The dress in the photo has a waist-deep cutout. But after all, you can stop it under the chest, tie it with a ribbon there, and then you can no longer wrap another ribbon around your waist, let the fabric flow freely down, starting to fall right from the ribbon under the chest. And it will be a slightly different model of the Greek dress, less frank). But let's continue...

So they put it on their heads, and marked on the fabric with chalk desired level cut depth. They removed it, spread it on the floor, drew a line to our mark and cut the cutout to the end with scissors. Along the line of the shoulders, the fabric was gathered with pins and then we proceed as shown in the figure.

They tied a ribbon under the chest, but not over the fabric, but under it, on the body. We take the pins and, laying the fabric in folds, pin them to the ribbon, draping first one chest, then the other.

About the same we do with a tape at the waist.

Now, when we already see the image of our future Greek dress, and we are satisfied with how the fabric lay down, you can thread the needle and, taking out one pin at a time, sew our folds to the ribbon with large stitches (or you can sew everything all over again, and then already remove the pins). Stitches can be made oblique and crooked, anyway, we will sew on top of another ribbon or braid, and we will already sew it neatly.

so, we blinded the front of the dress in the Greek style.

You can do the same thing on the back as on the front - with a cutout and two ribbons. Or show your imagination, play with drapery. Using the method of pins and pinches for hair, find the very location of the folds when the fabric flows in the most interesting way for you, emphasizing your strengths and hiding your flaws.

The pictures show 3 ways to drape the back of the dress. The third way "swing", is achieved by shirring the fabric up (the left and right edges of the fabric are gathered, and the middle sags freely, forming these very beautiful “rockers”) Accordingly, for the third method, fabric on the back hem needs 1-2 meters more.

But when playing with fabric and fantasizing, keep in mind that the dress must be provided with free entry and exit, that is, somewhere it must be fastened and unfastened. It is best to sew on the side, at the ends of the ribbons of the front of the dress, one elegant button, and at the ends of the ribbons of the back of the dress - a loop. Thus, it turns out that the dress above the waist does not have side seams, but is fastened with buttons (or Velcro, or decorative fasteners - to your taste).

The third way: drapery on the "lining"

Let me explain what a "slip" is. Imagine that you have a short dress in a figure, that is, almost in a slip. But you don’t wear it and you won’t wear it, because once you spilled bleach on it, and the stain cannot be removed. And if you still haven’t thrown it out yet, then rejoice, you don’t have to sew a slip on purpose - this dress will serve as an ideal basis for creating your new gorgeous dress in the Greek style. That is, it will be this very “lining”.

Put on the slip, take a flowing fabric in tone, throw it over your shoulder (or cut a hole for the head, as in the previous method), form folds and pin them to the slip with pins. Then you sew them on first with a rough thread with simple coarse stitches, take out the pins, try them on again and, if everything suits you, sew them on by hand with neat neat stitches.

Pull out the draft thread, cut off the excess fabric, if necessary, make a seam. As a basis for drapery, you can use not only a sheath dress, but also a tight-fitting T-shirt or bra. The main thing is that the drapery completely hides the base, and the base itself is the same color as the drapery fabric.

As you can see, a Greek-style dress can literally be made with “bare hands”. Without any drawings and mathematical calculations. Guided solely by intuition and a sense of beauty.

Go ahead, take the fabric and try, create! And you will definitely succeed!

As the ancient Greeks said: "To learn how to play the harp, you have to play the harp."

And if you want to know more, then you are welcome to follow the link. You will learn how the unsurpassed Alix Gret and Madeleine Vionnet created their Greek dresses.

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My love for sewing began as a child, when I dressed my plastic baby dolls in homemade clothes. I remember my mother (also a needlewoman, by the way) had a large bag with pieces of fabric left after sewing. It was happiness for me to swarm in this heap of scraps, I chose the most gaudy bright pieces of matter and sewed my first creations from them. It's about me. But I know that many of you come to the desire to sew already in a conscious adult age, when you go to the store and, confused by the variety of types of fabrics for clothes, make the “wrong” purchases.

• Easy to sew fabrics
• Difficult fabrics to sew

Types of fabric for clothes. What are the fabrics for sewing

For many needlewomen, the closet is filled to the top with cuts from which they would like to sew “this”, “this”, and “this”, but they don’t know if this fabric is suitable for sewing the desired thing. Or they don’t know at all what exactly they would like to sew, but they simply bought it because they liked the pattern. I call this an irrational approach to tailoring. The fact is that I, too, used to have a desire to immediately buy the fabric I liked, because I liked an interesting print or color on it, and at that moment I didn’t think at all what clothes I would sew from it. Often it turned out that it was not at all suitable for the intended thing, or I simply did not have the experience to work with such a fabric.

Today I will tell you how a beginner seamstress can avoid such mistakes. So let's start with the basics - what are the fabrics.

According to their characteristics, fabrics are divided into simple and complex. I will give you an example of the main fabrics and tell you exactly what properties the fabric should have or, on the contrary, not have, so that you do not have any problems and difficulties when sewing. I always advise beginner seamstresses to go from simple to complex, choose simple models for sewing, otherwise you can lose all desire to create. The same principle applies to fabrics - there is a group of fabrics that are easy and simple to sew, and they are ideal for beginners.

Easy to sew fabrics

1. Chintz. The lightest and most inexpensive cotton fabric. It is environmentally friendly, does not cause allergies, so clothes for babies, for sleeping and at home are sewn from it - shirts, pajamas, bathrobes, as well as bed linen, tablecloths, napkins.

2. Gabardine. Due to its high wear resistance and water repellency, I recommend using this fabric for furniture covers, bedspreads, curtains, and some artists use it as a canvas for paintings. It is easy to work with it, gabardine does not wrinkle, so skirts, raincoats, trousers are best obtained from it. But I would not recommend sewing tight-fitting clothes from gabardine for daily use. This material on most consists of synthetics, which means there will be poor air circulation, you will sweat in such clothes and feel uncomfortable. Although today some fabric stores are showing wool or all-cotton gabardine, so check the composition carefully before buying.

3. Jacquard. A rather expensive and refined fabric, and all because of its relief, created by a special weave of threads. If you look at its front side, you can see how the pattern is not just applied to the fabric, but embossed or embroidered on it. Clothing made of jacquard does not need additional decoration, the fabric itself gives an elegant look. It holds its shape well, so dresses, coats, trousers can be sewn from this fabric. Jacquard also looks beautiful in the interior, you can sew upholstery for furniture or put it on curtains. The composition can be cotton, silk, mixed, synthetic. High-quality lining jacquard can be purchased. For a beginner seamstress, it is best to take cotton or synthetic jacquard for sewing.

4. satin with a matte finish, no gloss or gloss- dense, durable, beautiful fabric that does not lose its properties after repeated washing, is pleasant to use, durable. Bedding, curtains, bedspreads, clothes are sewn from it.

5. Staple- Thin and light fabric. Due to its properties to absorb moisture well, while cooling the skin, the staple can be used when sewing summer things: sundresses, dresses, blouses, skirts. It drapes well, so it is suitable for models with assemblies and numerous folds.

6. Viscose- the softest and most pleasant to the touch fabric. Despite the belief that viscose is a natural fabric, in fact, viscose is produced artificially.

There are three types of viscose fabric:

• natural 100% viscose from wood pulp. This is the most capricious type of viscose. It wrinkles quickly, shrinks a lot when washed, and sewing from this type of fabric requires experience.
• viscose with cotton. This combination gives a stronger fiber, so sewing from it is easy. If you love natural fabrics, take note of this composition. From it, flowing tight-fitting dresses, skirts, blouses are well obtained.

• synthetic viscose. Not always the inscription on the label is viscose, which guarantees that the fabric is natural. If you are new to sewing, the manufacturer may mislead you and sell fake viscose. It is easy to distinguish synthetics - fabric made from artificial viscose is much cheaper, it almost does not wrinkle. But then the clothes will quickly become covered with spools and are not suitable for summer due to poor breathability.

7. Dress and blouse crepe. Surely many people remember how in Soviet times it was considered chic to wear a crepe de chine dress. This type of fabric has not yet lost its appeal for women's clothing. Today in the mass sale you can find the prefix crepe to satin, silk and synthetics. For a beginner seamstress, I would recommend using the last type of crepe for sewing, as it is the most unpretentious in work. The crepe has a rough surface, because of this things from dress crepe look textured, I would compare it with suede, but in a lighter version.

8. Tight knitwear. There are quite a few types of knitwear, and I would divide it into two groups: dense and highly stretchable knitwear. For a beginner seamstress, it will be easiest to work with tight knitwear that does not stretch much, does not unravel at the edges. These are such types of knitwear as: interlock, cashmere, jersey, footer, acrylic (synthetics), textured knitwear.

I'd did not recommend for beginners to sew from supplex, mesh knitwear, velor, terry, knitwear with angora - to sew from such fabrics, practical skills are needed, otherwise you risk ruining your fabric and mood.

9. Lorenzo- easy to sew fabric that does not wrinkle, creates beautiful folds and practically does not shrink after washing. For beginners, it is best to take a lonrenzo containing synthetic fibers, or a mixed composition. Suitable for sewing summer things - dresses, wide trousers, sundresses. This type of fabric has the only drawback - after a while, spools may appear on it, but its price is low.

10. Taffeta- the most elegant fabric and therefore is used everywhere for tailoring evening dresses or to create a rich interior. It is easily recognizable by its shiny surface and rigidity. Due to the properties of taffeta, it is good to keep its shape - it is suitable for a lush bottom: skirts and dresses on the floor.

In the fabric salon, it is easy to distinguish several types of taffeta:

• Synthetic taffeta is the most budget type of fabric. If you still haven’t decided what to sew an outfit for your baby or yourself for a wedding as a guest, you can safely make a choice in favor of acrylic taffeta. Don't let the unnatural composition scare you, because you will wear such an outfit for only one evening. I recommend to all beginners in sewing to work with this fabric when I myself sewed my first elegant taffeta dress.

• cotton taffeta - in this outfit you will definitely shine, because the ability of taffeta to reflect light is on top! But keep in mind that cotton products also wrinkle well, but they are hygroscopic - which means they are suitable for everyday use. It is easy to work with cotton taffeta in tailoring, with it a beginner seamstress can test himself in tailoring a suit or dress.

• silk taffeta is an expensive option for those who are ready to shell out a tidy sum for their outfit. As you understand, it is better for a beginner seamstress to refrain from working with silk fabrics - firstly, there is not enough experience, secondly, it may not work and you risk throwing a large sum down the drain.

11. suit fabrics- this is a separate group, which includes fabrics that are used when sewing adult and children's jackets, trousers, skirts. According to their composition, they are:

• suit wool, tweed. Not capricious in work, dimensionally stable fabric. Perfect for winter dresses, vests and warm bottoms: skirts, trousers. However, beginners need to know that woolen fabric can be scratchy, so such clothes definitely need a lining. If you have not yet mastered the technique of sewing the lining to the product, it is better to refrain from buying fabric with a wool composition.
• suit fabric made of synthetics. This includes gabardine, memory. The main advantage of artificial fabrics is wear resistance and crease resistance. Such suits can not even be ironed after washing. My most recommended sewing item for a beginner is a school uniform. And fill your hand and save the family budget. At the same time, its price is low.
• cotton costume fabrics - denim or jeans, linen. Of all the above, I would advise you to take only jeans for sewing at the beginning of training.
• but the suit fabric of mixed composition proved to be the best in operation. If you find such a fabric - choose boldly!

12. Poplin- natural double-sided cotton fabric. In terms of density, I would put it between a staple and satin. That is, it is not too thin, and at the same time it is suitable for the warm season. Therefore, dresses, skirts, shorts are well made from poplin. If you are in the process of choosing a natural fabric for a summer sundress, take a closer look at poplin. Due to the presence of two types of threads, it has a smooth and slightly shiny surface. Also, because of its low cost, you can afford to sew poplin bedding.

Difficult fabrics to sew

1. Shaggy and satin coated fabrics: velvet, velor, velveteen, plush, satin, satin. Although pile fabrics drape beautifully and are pleasant to the touch, I do not advise a beginner to take on sewing products from velvet, velor, plush. This requires experience and knowledge of sewing technology. The pile has a direction, so when cutting it is necessary to observe this feature, otherwise the dress will turn out to be multi-colored. Such fabrics are not ironed, and if they are decoated, then it is obligatory in compliance with all WTO wet heat treatment technologies. And if your eyes fell on satin or satin, then I advise you to reconsider it in favor of taffeta or jacquard. Since on the satin coating there are forever traces of a puncture with a needle. Therefore, all your errors in the form of crooked lines or work with a ripper will be visible in all their glory.

2. Checkered and striped fabrics. To make a checkered dress look neat, you need to cut all the details in accordance with the pattern. It will not be easy for a beginner to adjust the pattern, and the errors made will immediately betray the inexperience of the tailor.

3. Thin, highly stretchy jersey. Here, too, there are nuances. You need to take into account the extensibility of the fabric, otherwise you can end up with a thing a couple of sizes larger, even if you used a pattern by size.

5. Transparent fabrics: cambric, chiffon, organza, silk, guipure and lace. One of the most difficult fabrics to sew. Here I advise a novice seamstress not only not to take on sewing products from this group of fabrics, but also to look for a good experienced dressmaker when ordering a custom-made lace dress.

6. Loose fabrics with high friability: linen, wool, tweed. Although tweed makes exquisite demi-season coats with a small rib, in your work you will constantly encounter garbage from threads and villi. To be honest, I do not like working with these fabrics, especially sewing a woolen coat annoys me. After which you have to vacuum the whole room, and given that I have an allergy, then you can completely refuse to work with such fabrics.

7. Natural silk. Its price corresponds to the difficulty in working with this fabric. The price of silk woven from natural threads of silkworm cocoons starts from several thousand per meter. To date, they have learned how to make silk by artificial methods, but no matter how it is obtained, experience is needed to sew clothes from silk. When cutting on silk fabric, it is difficult to decompose patterns in the usual way - the fabric slides and ordinary chalk marks cannot be used here. Therefore, at the initial stage, I advise you to look at more than one pair of lessons on working with silk and get your hand on a cheaper organza.

There are many more types of classification of fabrics for clothing, I have listed only the most common ones. But even those discussed in today's example will help you at first to do right choice so as not to be disappointed in their own abilities.

Dear friends, if this article was useful to you - do not be too lazy to click the "share" button in the social. networks.

When creating this kite, I spent no more than $40 on materials.

The whole process of creating this wonderful kite took me 8 hours. This is the snake I ended up with:

Step 1: Materials and Tools

My goal was to use the cheapest and most accessible materials that can be bought at any store. Please note that many of the materials I did not have to look for, so your kite may cost a larger amount.

Materials:

1. Durable nylon. I bought a meter of each color. This amount should, according to my calculations, be enough for 5 kites.
2. Six wooden dowels (0.6 cm in diameter, 92 cm long)
3. Vinyl tube 61 cm long, with a diameter of 0.6 cm. This tube will hold the dowels together.
4. Adhesive for fabric. You can choose the cheapest in the store.
5. Super glue. It is necessary to firmly glue the fabric to the vinyl tube.
6. Special fishing line or rope for winding / unwinding and controlling the kite in the air.
7. A pack of safety pins (optional, can be used to hold pieces of fabric together while gluing it to the wooden base of the snake).

Instruments:

1. Scissors
2. Marker with a fine tip for marking on fabric and dowels.
3. Boxed cardboard to create a layout (optional). It was easier for me to measure the triangular layout of the kite on cardboard so that in the end my kite turned out to be symmetrical.
4. Tape measure and straightedge (36 inches long) for calculations.
5. Protractor - for measuring angles in a triangular kite.
6. Regular pencil sharpener - we will use it to cut the edges of the dowels.
7. Hacksaw and cutter (optional) - in order to cut off part of the wooden dowel.
8. Large nail - should leave a hole through which a wooden dowel can pass through.

For work, I advise you to spread the fabric on the floor, so it will be more convenient to do calculations.

Step 2: Building the Foundation

What we need: wooden dowels (3 pieces 91 cm long, 1 piece 6 cm long, 1 piece 7.2 cm long), vinyl tube, nail, scissors, tape measure, marker.

The vinyl tube should be long enough for you to fit the wood dowels into it.
The vinyl tubing will need to be doweled and cut later (NOT NOW). Therefore, the length of the tube can be calculated based on the dimensions of the parts:

1 tube 7.6 cm long;
6 tubes 1 cm long (for connecting the crossbars);
2 tubes 1.3 cm long (for fixing the outer tips of the "wings" of the snake so that the fabric does not come off).

1. Measure the length of each key. 3 dowels do not need to be cut at all, while 2 dowels can be obtained by cutting one. I used a miter and a hacksaw to cut the dowels. You can replace these tools with scissors, but then you have to work hard to cut straight.

2. Take a pencil sharpener to round off the edges of the dowels. No need to sharpen, just round off so the keys can be pushed into the vinyl tube. Look at the photo.

3. Measure one and a half centimeters from the edge of the vinyl tube and make a mark with a marker. Then, in place of the mark, stick a nail perpendicular to the tube. Look at the photo.

4. Now you need to push the key into the tube. This will take some time and effort. How to do it - look at the photo.

5. Once the first key has been inserted, you can measure a length of 1 cm and cut it off.

6. Repeat for all keys:
to fix the tip, the “nose” of the snake, you need a dowel in a tube 7.6 cm long;
two 92 cm dowels will require 2 vinyl tubes. One 91 cm long key will need a vinyl tube in its central part. This is quite difficult to explain - follow the step-by-step actions in the photo.

Step 3: Measure and cut the fabric

What do we need: nylon, marker, scissors, tape measure, straightedge, protractor.

I drew a sketch of my kite on cardboard in advance and cut out the layout. Thus, I got a symmetrical layout, which is left to attach to the fabric, circle and cut along the contour.

I had to tinker with trigonometric calculations. To make it easier for you, here is a picture with the measurements I used:

Note that the 2 edges are 1.5 cm longer. This margin is needed to glue together the "sleeves" into which we will insert the dowel.

Step 4: Glue the pieces of fabric

What we need: dowels, fabric glue, pieces of fabric you just cut out, safety pins (optional)

Note: glue one of the 19" pieces into the sleeve. The other part will be used to glue two pieces of fabric.

For beginners, the longer piece of fabric will be wrapped around the longest dowels. Next, I made the sleeve by gluing nylon around the edge and inserting a dowel as shown in the photo.

Now it's the turn to glue one piece of fabric to another. Take the piece where there is no dowel sleeve and cut it to 0.5 cm. Glue as shown in the photo, do not forget to insert the dowel into the sleeve before gluing.

Let the glue dry for several hours.

Step 5: Joining the Base and Fabric

What we need: tape measure, parts of the kite that you have already made - fabric base and wings, superglue, fabric glue, an additional dowel to even out the roughness from the glue layer on the fabric.

Prepare the fabric:
Along the edges, you need to measure and make cuts to insert the doweled vinyl tubes. The incisions should be at a distance of 9 cm and 32 cm from the "spout". Detailed process in the photo.

Insert dowels:

To create the outer slats of the kite, take the two dowels in the vinyl tubing prepared earlier.

1. Starting at the “nose”, carefully slide the dowel into the fabric sleeve.
2. Once you reach the first notch, slide a piece of vinyl tubing over the key as shown in the photo below.
3. Continue to slide the dowel down the takani sleeve, making sure that the outside of the vinyl tube does not move.
4. Repeat step 2 for the next vinyl tube when you reach the second notch in the sleeve.
5. Pass the dowel to the end of the sleeve, and do the same with the other "wing" of your kite.
We collect the central part:
The 19-inch sleeve, which is made in the middle after gluing the two halves of the fabric, also needs to make two cuts to fit the short key.
1. The outer slats are now in the sleeves at the edges of the "wings".
2. The upper layer of the sleeve in the middle must be cut to pass the key, which should be fastened at both ends with vinyl tubes.

A few finishing touches:

Now we need superglue. It is very important to use super glue to secure the tips of the "wings" of the kite so that they do not stick out and do not fray during acrobatic stunts in the air.

1. Use 3" vinyl tubing to secure the spout. Now use superglue to stick the fabric to the vinyl tube.
2. One and a half inch vinyl tubes from the base of the kite should be attached to the ends of the outer strips. Use superglue to glue the fabric to the tubes.
3. Apply fabric glue to the back (the only edge without a key). To prevent the glue from bubbling, straighten the fabric with a dowel.

Voila! Finally, we have a kite that can perform acrobatic stunts.

Step 6: Attaching the ropes to control the kite

What you will need: rope, twine (60 meters), scissors, kite.

In total, there are 6 connecting points (3 on each side), they should be located as in the photo.

I made a loop at one end of the loop, cut the rope into 6 pieces, each 61 cm long. Then I attached each rope to the snake at the connection points. To do this, I wrapped the rope around the key and threaded the free end into a loop, thus tying it around the key.

Measure, without cutting, the length for each tied rope:
top rope (21 cm);
the lower rope of the outer strap (16.5 cm);
lower ropes with inner sides(14 cm).

1. Measure each rope, make a mark with a marker.
2. Once all the ropes have been marked to the correct length, take the 2 ropes from the left side and 1 lower middle rope and line up according to the marks.
3. Apply superglue to all three marks to hold the three ropes together.
4. After the superglue dries, tie a knot on all three ropes. To secure the knot, I put some superglue on it.
5. Repeat all these steps for the right side of the kite. Excess pieces of rope can be cut off after the glue dries. Don't forget to check the photo.

Rope guides.

You will need two ropes to control the kite in the air. One for the right hand, the other for the left. Each of these ropes should be about 25-30m long. The photo explains in detail how to connect these lines to the base of the kite. Make a loop at the end of each rope and follow the instructions in the photo!

Have you ever wondered what you can do with fabric with your own hands? A wide range of fabrics of various colors and textures allows you to create a variety of textile products. And various techniques for working with this material will amaze the imagination of the most sophisticated master.

About material

Weaving from natural materials originated before our era. People skillfully used the gifts of nature, creating densely woven silk, linen, cotton and wool. Each empire in which weaving from one material or another vehemently guarded the secrets of production. The spread of fabrics to all corners of the world was largely facilitated by the Crusades and trade sea routes. Thus, Alexander the Great brought the finest muslin to the Mediterranean. This fabric won the hearts of women with its lightness and grace. And the trade of Britain with its colonies led to the spread of Indian calico throughout Europe.

In countries that did not have their own production, fabrics were worth their weight in gold. This prompted the English ladies to cherish every piece of precious chintz. Thus, a new type of needlework was born - patchwork. The English women made up various ornaments from scraps of fabric, using strict geometric rules.

At the beginning of the 20th century, the world experienced scientific progress that changed the processes of fabric production and its properties. This is how knitwear appeared, which is based on artificial fibers. Denim or jeans in general is a type of canvas. It began to be used for sewing work overalls in 1893. The fabric is made of cotton, and the high resistance to wear is due to the special interweaving of the warp and weft threads.

And now we will look at techniques for working with fabric and products that you can create from it with your own hands.

sewing basics

Armed with a needle and thread, you can create any textile product. And if you know how to sew on a sewing machine, then there are practically no limits to creativity.

The first purpose of the fabric was clothing. Simple models can be performed even by inexperienced craftsmen. To do this, you need to learn how to process fabric and read patterns. Turning to the school of cutting and sewing, you will master these skills in 1.5-2 months. Learning to cut and sew simple models you can gradually improve your skills. After all, the craftsmen who sew the most complex wedding dresses for individual orders also once did not know how it was done.

For beginners on their way to mastering sewing, tailoring a soft toy is perfect. It's easy, use one of the suggested patterns and create a small furry friend for your child.

Just cut out the pieces on the fabric, taking into account the seam allowance, sew them, stuff them and put them together.

Toys, sewn by hand, have a special attraction and become a talisman for the baby. As the first toy for the crumbs, they came up with comforter.

This is a small fabric handkerchief with the head of an animal attached to it. The fabric absorbs the smell of mom and makes the baby feel safe. You can also try creating a comforter using a pattern.

Sewing technique involves the ability to work with patterns. If you achieve it, you can sew anything.

Patchwork technique

You have already learned about the history of patchwork, now you can try to work in this technique yourself. A small workshop on crazy patchwork will show you the basics of this skill.

All work is based on the creation of small modules, usually in the form of squares. To obtain a large product, the modules are sewn into strips, and then into a large canvas.

So, to create a modular square 20 by 20 cm, you will need:

• Various scraps of fabrics;
• Scissors;
• Sewing machine;
• Ruler;
• Iron;
• Module template with a side of 20 cm.

Your module will be based on a regular pentagon. Trace the piece onto the fabric and cut out.

Each side of the polygon must be sheathed with strips of fabric scraps. Choose a direction to sew and strictly follow it. Sew the selected piece of fabric to the figure using sewing machine. Unfold the strip and iron. It is advisable to iron each seam, this will help to avoid deformation of the product.

Using a ruler, cut off the excess fabric as shown in the photo.

Continue sewing strips of fabric until the fabric reaches the desired size.

Attach the template to the canvas and cut out the module.

Now look how many wonderful things you can create using the patchwork technique.

From furniture fabric, you can create new sofa covers.

Disposal of old things

The fabric wears out easily and even the most beloved things lose their beauty. Throw them away? Not! Give things a second life. From pieces of fabric you can create beautiful rugs. To do this, cut the old things into strips and weave a long pigtail out of them. The joints of the fabric can be sewn or fastened by making cuts in them. A new strip is inserted into the end of the working strip, its tail is passed through the slot and tightened. This allows you to connect the patches without a seam.

The resulting pigtail must be rolled up with a snail, stitching with threads. Shape your rug to the size you need.

You can make a pom pom rug from scraps of fabric. It's simple:

• cut out circles from the fabric;
• pull them together with a “needle forward” seam;
• fill the pompoms;
• Sew them on any base.

It turned out a beautiful and original rug.

Decorative items

From the remnants of fabric from your favorite dress, you can create beautiful beads that will complement your look.

Sew a long strip of fabric to fit large beads. On the edges of the fabric strip, fix the fittings with a clasp. Each bead must be intercepted with a thread or a decorative cord, or even just tied knots between them. The process is shown in the photo instructions.

Stylish accessory is ready!

From small pieces of fabric you can make fantasy flowers. They are very easy to make.

You can use them to create various decorative products and finish any thing.

It's easy enough to make a painting out of fabric. There are many techniques:

• Wet cloth work. It involves applying a fabric soaked in a paste to the base. It is neatly draped, creating mountains, waves, clouds. The rest of the plot of the picture can be completed or made in any other technique.
• Application. Gluing starched fabric details onto the background can be both childish and adult creativity. Below you can see the denim work done by child and artist Ian Berry.
• Stretching the canvas on the frame. There is no skill required at all. The piece of fabric you like must be inserted into the finished frame, secured with glue or a furniture stapler.
• Performing work on foam. Cuts are made in the foam sheet that correspond to the selected sketch. Pieces of fabric are tucked into the slot. Such a picture looks voluminous and does not require the use of glue.
• Pictures with flowers from fabric. Choose a plot - it can be a female figure with flowers in her hair or a vase, a flower bed, a flower branch. Using the sketch, glue the flowers to the background.

This is not a complete list of what you can make from fabric with your own hands. Inspiration to you and creative success!

Video on the topic of the article

We invite you to watch a selection of videos from which you will learn how to make various fabric crafts.