Correct Shumka doors for acoustics. That is why soundproofing car doors is the most important stage in our work! What materials are there

Soundproofing car doors is just as important as the "noise" of the entire car. A large amount of unwanted noise from the roadway enters through the doors. After completing this process, the following is observed:

• reduction of external sounds, most of which are created by passing cars;
• doors close much quieter by increasing their weight;
• improving the sound of audio systems.

Do not forget about the drawback, which is the sagging of the door due to the increase in its weight, after vibration and noise isolation.

The choice of materials for noise and vibration insulation

Vibration-absorbing materials are used to reduce "structure-borne noise" - the sounds that are produced as a result of vibration of metal elements of a car, namely:

• engine;
• transmissions;
• suspension elements.

This will achieve good result... These materials have an adhesive base, which allows installation to be carried out rather quickly and without the use of additional tools. Also, this adhesive has sealing properties to protect metal body parts from corrosion.

All these materials are made on the basis of bitumen or mastic with or without aluminum foil:

Sound absorbing materials are used to isolate extraneous sounds. They are based on a foamed (porous) fabric - polyethylene. Depending on the properties and qualities of this insulator, they are available with or without foil. "Accent" (open-celled structure) and "isotone" (covered with a metallized film) are the main representatives of this group.

The "pluses" include high thermal insulation properties, since noise and sound insulating substances have low thermal conductivity.

Sound insulating materials are necessary to isolate the vehicle from external noise. They are a minor material and are used after vibration isolators. The main representatives of the sound insulator, which are based on foamed polyethylene and an adhesive base, are:

• barrier;
• vibroton;
• spleen.

Soundproofing car door frame

Do-it-yourself car door soundproofing is a process that does not take much time. It requires patience and a few tools:

• a set of screwdrivers for disassembling the door trim;
• construction hairdryer;
• construction knife or scissors;
• degreaser / thinner;
• a stitching roller;
• noise and vibration insulation material.

You also need to decide which "Shumka" to choose. It depends on what result you want to achieve:

• improving the quality of audio sound;
• removing squeaks and vibrations of metal body elements for greater comfort.

The above will determine what kind of soundproofing of the car doors will be used:

• minimum;
• standard;
• maximum.

Consider a standard door treatment option. For him you need:

• disassemble the door, namely - remove the door trim, protective film (if any) in order to gain full access to all necessary surfaces;
• further, the inner surfaces should be treated with a solvent or degreaser so that there is no fat, dirt and moisture on them;
• after that, the first layer of vibration-insulating material, vibroplast M1, is glued to the inside of the door;
• the next stage of the work is the application of a layer of sound insulation. It can be spleen or accent.

• technological holes on the door are sealed with a cut of the required shape with a small overlap with aluminum foil ("Viek");
• after that, vibration isolation (vibroplast M1) is glued to the aluminum foil. The result is one glued surface, consisting of two layers.

When performing all operations, the main thing is not to disturb the correct operation of all rods and cables, as well as electrical wiring.

Greetings. Today we will analyze everything on the topic: "Car soundproofing". I will tell you how to do it right and what to make noise first. And I will also share secrets and tricks. Go!

If you want to build even an entry-level audio system, then Shumka is the first necessity and foundation for improving the sound in a car. An additional pleasant bonus will be increased comfort on any trip. Well, if the main thing for you is precisely the reduction of ambient noise, then improving the sound of even a standard audio system will pleasantly surprise you. But everyone will decide for himself to what extent to make soundproofing of his car, and I will try to help determine this.

More than a dozen cars have passed through my hands on soundproofing works, and I think I will be able to give you some useful information.

Types of noise insulation materials

Under the general name sound insulation, several types of materials are combined - these are vibration absorbers, noise absorbers and seals.

Vibration isolation materials

The name speaks for itself, these are materials for reducing vibration of metal surfaces of the car.

They are mastic on foil-clad material of different hardness and thickness. "Vibra" - is the basis of any soundproof "sandwich" of the car. Most often, materials are self-adhesive, but there are also those that require heating for installation.

• roof;
• hood cover;
• doors;
• trunk lid;
• wheel arches;
• salon floor;
• partition engine compartment;

Noise insulation materials

As a rule, they are laid on top of vibration isolation, performing a double function - noise absorption and thermal insulation. There are two types.

First option made of foam materials with a closed-cell structure, has a pronounced thermal insulation effect.

• salon floor;
• trunk floor;
• roof;
• bonnet cover.

Second option- softer foams with a wavy or pyramidal surface structure. The uneven face of the material increases the area, providing more efficient sound absorption compared to flat counterparts of the same thickness. Due to its softness and pliability, it facilitates the assembly of interior parts and fills in voids.

• roof;
• doors;
• trunk lid;
• wheel arches from the inside;
• bulkhead of the engine compartment.

Sealing materials (anti-creaks)

With the help of these materials, all hated "crickets" are eliminated and, if necessary, an additional seal is created at the joints of the plastic parts of the interior. Anti-creaks can also be used for winding electrical wiring.

• joints of plastic panels,
• air ducts,
• places of contact of door trims.

Manufacturers

On the Russian market there are two of the most famous and common:

"StP"

"Standartplast" has been on the market since 1996. Distributes its soundproofing, soundproofing and sealing materials through dealer networks.

"Shumoff"

It is both a developer and a manufacturer. Has a number of very successful materials, fully meeting the requirements of car noise isolation.

Of course, there are many more manufacturers and types of noise insulation, but I will give examples of materials from these two brands. Because they are the most common and well-known among us. This will make it easier for you to get an idea of ​​the type of insulation for a particular surface.

Car soundproofing tools

To carry out work on soundproofing a car, you will need:

• stitching roller **;
• a heat dryer, if you need to heat up certain materials;
• scissors and a knife for cutting material;
• degreaser (solvent, white spirit, etc.);
• cleaning rags;
• a spatula for removing old glue and factory sound insulation;

* Interior disassembly tools. Thanks to the material, the interior parts of the car during assembly and disassembly work remain scratch-free, do not damage painted, leather, chrome and other surfaces.

** Roll-on roller. A simple tool for rolling material onto the surface, avoiding bubbles and loose areas. Do not buy rollers with a plastic roller, it is good for them not to roll in the Shumka, besides, it will definitely not last long.

Basic Provisions

• Materials are glued exclusively to dry and degreased surfaces;
• Be sure to carefully roll vibration isolation over the entire surface;
• Choose the thickness of the material so that the plastic elements of the interior would normally fit into their mounting places;
• Be prepared for the fact that several caps may break during work, so you can stock up on them in advance or buy in addition in the process;
• Carefully follow the fastenings of the parts and the location of the wiring plugs, it will not be superfluous to take a picture so that you do not get worn out during assembly;
• Work must be done in a warm room (+20 degrees).

Soundproofing doors

Doors must be noisy. This is the foundation for building an acoustic system, you will not even recognize the sound of the staff after gluing the doors, the external noise while driving will also noticeably decrease, and the sound of their closing will become many times more pleasant. First of all, I want to note that door processing will have the greatest effect on costs, both financial and physical. You will hardly feel the effect of processing other surfaces for such a bright effect!

Dismantling doors

On the net you will find detailed manual for almost any model, there shouldn't be any problems here.

Be sure to use special tools so as not to damage the plastic and paint. If there is no access to them, you can use a screwdriver wrapped in electrical tape. The main thing is not to scatter bolts with caps and remember well which one is from, and also pay attention to the location of the wiring plugs. When assembling, you can spend a lot of time remembering where this or that chip is inserted, or you can completely forget to connect something.

Preparing doors for soundproofing

After disassembly, remove all factory insulation, remove the remaining glue (any solvent will help with this). When the insides are dirty enough, it makes sense to rinse the metal of the door, and after drying, thoroughly degrease both inside and outside. Do not neglect this rule so that the materials are held securely.

If the inner space is covered by a one-piece shield, then it will have to be drilled out for removal (use a drill with the diameter of the rivet shafts). In principle, it is even more convenient for seaming, since it is not always easy to get into the technological holes with your hand, and even forcefully roll the vibrator with a roller.

Vibration isolation of doors

Advice: initially apply on the metal a frame grating made of a material of increased rigidity from those that require heating for installation (for example, "ProfF" from Shumoff).

Then stick and roll the inner surface of the outer wall with vibration isolation as much as possible over the entire area where you can get. Usually materials with a thickness of 2-3 mm are used. ( Examples: Shumoff Series M or Light, Stp Bimast Bomb or Aero.) with thicker ones, the effect will be better, but at the same time the load on the hinges increases and the complexity of installation increases.

The next step is gluing outside inner wall. There are several options here:

• standard - everything is rolled up under the material used and the assembly openings are sealed with it;

• reinforced - mounting openings are sealed with a material that becomes sticky and soft only when heated, and at a standard temperature has increased rigidity;

• professional - the holes are riveted with aluminum or overlays made of fiberglass, and then vibration isolation is applied on top.

Leave room for wiring when gluing. You can cut the material and glue it already under it, or you can partially remove the wires, completely roll up the door (leaving the holes for the fasteners) and install the wiring back. Also, do not forget to leave holes for caps, screws and guides, otherwise you will not be able to wear the trim later. Additionally, watch the edges of the insulated area so that the material does not go beyond the border covered by the sheathing. Be sure to pay attention to the moving parts, often out of inexperience, the guides of the mechanical open / close buttons are glued.

Additionally, you can partially glue the cladding from the inside, but do not overdo it.

If you are making noise on the doors to improve the quality of the music, be sure to install wooden spacers between the speaker and the door iron (pictured above). Select the height of the spacer according to the distance to the casing. In order for it to sit in place during assembly.

Soundproofing doors

Sound absorbers are usually glued to inner side sheathing.

But it so happens that the shape of the sheathing is very complex or has a fleecy structure. In this case, it is better to stick the material on the wall of the door itself over the vibration isolation. It is more efficient to use material with a pyramidal structure ( Example: Bitoplast, Hermeton).

Do not use splen or similar noise isolators in doors, most of at low temperatures just peels off. I had to face it more than once.

If you had problems with crickets and squeaks in the map, then you can glue the joints with an anti-squeak.

Door assembly

Do not forget to connect all connectors, install all mechanisms in their places. Be careful not to use too much force. With proper gluing, the sheathing should sit normally. Before fully assembling and pulling the fasteners, check all controls (lift, lock, mirror controls, speakers, etc.)

If everything is done correctly, now you will hear more bass, the music will become more collected and pleasant, as well as external noise when driving will decrease.

Noise isolation of the trunk

Thanks to the competent soundproofing of the trunk:

• the level of external noise will decrease, especially in hatchbacks and station wagons;
• qualitatively increase the sound level of your subwoofer and the speaker system as a whole (sound will no longer be lost in the vibrations of the metal of the luggage compartment);
• decrease heat losses

For vibration isolation, a material of 2-3 mm is usually used. ( Examples: Shumoff Series M or Light, Stp Bimast Bomb or Aero). To enhance the effect of resonating surfaces of a large area, thicker material is glued, or a reinforcing mesh is made, as is the case with doors.

The soundproofing for the boot floor is selected from materials with a smooth structure ( Example: Shumoff series P or isotone from Stp).

For walls and lid casing luggage compartment it would be more expedient to use a Shumka with an open structure ( Example: Bitoplast, Hermeton).

The trunk usually has a lot of uneven surfaces, so carefulness and patience will come in handy to get a good result.

Soundproofing car roof

Installing additional noise insulation for the roof of a car will significantly reduce heat loss. In cold weather, the car interior will heat up faster and cool down longer, which will undoubtedly add comfort. The general decrease in external noise will be quite difficult to catch, but during the rain you can experience pleasant sensations. The sound of drops disappears almost completely. And also the quality of the bass will increase if you have a subwoofer installed.

The procedure for soundproofing the roof itself is not complicated and it is quite convenient to carry out rolling work.

Do not glue the stiffeners - they must be ventilated. Otherwise, condensation will accumulate inside!

The dismantling of the casing can cause problems. You need to be careful and do the work with an assistant in order to accidentally bend or not break it. And be careful with the wiring.

Examples of materials: Light or Aero for vibra, and Hermeton or Bitoplast for Shumkov.

In the area of ​​the arches, the main external noise accumulates and, moreover, it is a rather vibro-loaded surface. Comprehensive soundproofing of the arches will significantly reduce the noise level and improve acoustic comfort.

Soundproofing arches outside

If your car has fenders installed, you will need to dismantle them. Glue the outer metal of the arches with a vibration absorber (3 mm). For the wheel arch liners, you can use a lighter material. Example: Shumoff M series, Stp bimast bomb.

It is better not to use silencers outside, even if they are moisture resistant. Practice shows that this is not very effective and best result will give the correct insulation from the passenger compartment.

If there are no wheel arch liners in your car, then also glue the outer metal with vibration isolation. The material must be rolled out very carefully to form a uniform surface. Then liquid rubber and similar materials are used on top ( Noxudol 3100, Shumoff layer, etc.), they additionally protect against sandblasting, reduce noise from impacts of small particles and mask vibration isolation.

Soundproofing of the arches from the passenger compartment

From the inside, the gluing process is standard. The first layer is vibration isolation ( example: Shumoff M series, Stp Bimast Bomb), the second insulation ( example: Bitoplast, Hermeton). It is better to stick the noise on the interior parts that cover the arches. But if their material does not allow the insulation to stick reliably, then mount it directly on the vibrator.

It should be noted that a noticeable effect is achieved only with an integrated approach. If you only apply one of the options presented, you will most likely be disappointed with the result.

Soundproofing the car floor

The floor of the car is characterized by a large area. The main labor costs are disassembly of the passenger compartment, removal of seats, etc. In this case, it is convenient to glue the material, in contrast to working with doors and trunk.

Since the area is relatively flat and large, it is better to use a thicker vibrator for the first layer ( example: Shumoff MixF, StP Aero Plus) for the most resonant places, materials that require heating during installation can be used.

The second layer is rolled up waterproof noise insulation with a closed structure ( example: Shumoff Comfort 10, Hermeton L; StP Accent or Isotone).

Be careful not to glue the mounting holes so that later you do not look for them under the thickness of the material.

It should be noted that, oddly enough, often the soundproofing of the floor does not meet the expectations of the average owner. The effect is hardly noticeable, especially against the background of a lot of work done and material costs. But as an additional plus, you will receive improved thermal insulation of the cabin, if this is relevant for your region.

The best effect on engine noise reduction is achieved when the engine compartment is insulated both from the passenger compartment and from the outside.

This process is perhaps the most difficult compared to working on other body parts. The main difficulty is disassembling the instrument panel. because modern cars have a lot of electrical equipment, which is located in the torpedo area. Therefore, the process of removing and reassembly will require very great care and attention. Also, it must be borne in mind that it is unlikely that it will be possible to insulate the engine in one day.

From the side of the engine compartment, it is advisable to use thicker vibration isolation; it will not be superfluous to use a material that requires heating. You need to cover the maximum area, including in the most inaccessible places. A material with a reflective surface is suitable as sound insulation in order to prevent possible overheating.

From the side of the passenger compartment, the thickness of the materials is chosen so that dashboard fell into place.

If all work is carried out correctly, the noise level from the engine in the cabin will decrease significantly (up to 50%). In addition, vibrations will also decrease, this can be felt on the steering wheel. In addition, if you use a material such as, for example, modelin etc., then you can get rid of squeaks and annoying "crickets" in the dash, if there were any.

The main disadvantage is the risk of damaging expensive equipment. It often happens that after the soundproofing of the instrument panel, there are malfunctions in the electronics.

Therefore, before deciding to carry out these works, you need to weigh everything well.

I will not dwell on the hood soundproofing for long. It can be made as insulation for the engine compartment, but for this it is better to use an auto blanket or something similar.

This procedure practically does not reduce the noise of the engine in the cabin. Here on the drive, the guy carried out cognitive measurements: .

I would advise you to carry out soundproofing of the hood in case you have a diesel engine and it rumbles loudly. The hood can also be processed if it vibrates noticeably when driving and you don't like it. Standard materials: Shumoff series M or Light, Stp Bimast Bomb or Aero for vibration isolation and closed types for Shumka: Shumoff series P or isotone from Stp.

It is better to glue the soundproofing to the standard soundproofing of the hood, so it will be more convenient. And in this way the ventilation openings will not be sealed.

Outcomes

How much to carry out soundproofing, everyone decides for himself.

I would recommend the following:

Soundproofing of doors - "musthav" it is worth doing even if you are not going to modify your speaker system. The effect is remarkable compared to the cost.

The roadbed on which the vehicle is operated is far from always of high quality. Coupled with the fact that automakers rarely pay enough attention to high-quality door soundproofing, frequent trips from poor surfaces lead to loosening of the body, trunk, hood and door fasteners. The driver learns about the presence of problems only in the second year of operation of the car, if it was originally purchased new. It is the doors that make themselves felt in the first place. How is the sound insulation of car doors carried out, and what materials are needed for this?

Soundproofing functions of doors

Soundproofing work should be carried out immediately after purchasing a car, even if it is new. The improvements will be as follows:

• a significant increase in driving comfort and a decrease in the risk of accidents, while extraneous noises irritate the driver and make the trip unsafe;
• the acoustic capabilities of the cabin are increased, the sound quality is increased, vibration and rattling are eliminated while driving;
• heat losses are reduced, which leads to a long-term preservation of the required air temperature even when the engine is off.

Choice of materials

The key purpose of vibration damping materials is to reduce structure-borne noise caused by vibration of metal parts vehicle(suspension elements, transmission, engine). When choosing a specific material, it is necessary to focus on the mechanical loss factor. It should be as high as possible. Due to the adhesive base, the materials under consideration are quickly mounted and have additional sealing properties for anti-corrosion protection of metal body elements. The basis for the manufacture of the materials presented below is mastic or bitumen, it is possible to add aluminum foil, but there are also options without it.

1. Bimastas are presented in two layers - bituminous and mastic. The thickness is 2 - 4 mm, the outer cover can be made of aluminum, paper or fabric.
2. Visomat is a vibration-absorbing material based on bitumen, made on an adhesive basis. Vibration absorption is ensured by the combination of bitumen and foamed polymer. The MP series is distinguished by the presence of a foil coating.
3. Vibroplast is characterized by high rates of elasticity and flexibility. The structure is represented by aluminum foil, polymer and self-adhesive backing.

Sound-absorbing and sound-insulating materials, in turn, isolate sounds, are made on the basis of polyethylene. Refers to the category of additional materials used after vibration isolators.

Technologically correct performance of noise insulation works in the door area requires the preparation of the following materials and tools:

• noise and vibration isolators;
• stitching roller;
• solvent;
• scissors or construction knife;
• construction or household hair dryer;
• Screwdriver Set.

The preparatory stage requires the following work:

1. The door is disassembled open. The cladding must be removed in a well-lit room, the process is monotonous and long. Try not to damage the fasteners and remember the disassembly process. The glass lifter mechanism does not need to be dismantled.
2. Second preparatory stage requires the removal of factory insulation and corrosion protection.
3. At the final stage, the clean metal obtained after dismantling must be degreased.

Phased noise isolation depending on the degree

Do-it-yourself step-by-step soundproofing of car doors directly depends on the degree of sound insulation that needs to be achieved.

Minimum noise insulation

it a budget option, and it is not suitable for improving acoustics, but noise is reduced. Door processing is minimal and involves gluing vibration-absorbing material to the outer door panel in a continuous layer or at least 70%. The use of a 2 mm vibration damper is allowed. To reflect the noise, it is also necessary to process the inner panel of the door card; for this, you can use a noise-insulating material. Additionally, this measure will serve as protection against moisture and dust.

Flat places of the door card can be trimmed.

Average noise isolation

The optimum balance between quality and price can be achieved with medium sound insulation. Special materials in this case, more, and the installation principle is somewhat different. Noise from the road side is significantly reduced, and acoustics can be installed in the door, from which it will be possible to get a good return. The procedure here will be as follows:

1. The first layer is a 2mm vibration absorber. In the area opposite the speaker, you can use a 3mm thickness and add an acoustic lens. Soundproofing material can be glued on top, but this step is optional.
2. Use a rigid vibration absorber to clean the outer panel and close all technological openings.
3. Thin vibration absorber (2 mm) is suitable for processing door cards.
4. A 5 or 10 mm sound absorber is used to finish the entire inner surface.

Maximum noise isolation

The considered level of sound insulation will be appropriate, if necessary, to mount a powerful speaker system with midbass in the doorways. Doors should be carefully prepared for such speakers. The main goal in this case will not be to suppress external noise, although such processing will cope with this function perfectly. Features of installing such insulation:

1. Vibration-damping material 3 mm thick should be used as the first layer for processing the external panel. You should not choose a material of greater thickness, otherwise the doors will become too heavy.
2. Use a soundproofing material with a layer of waterproof glue as the second layer.
3. Prepare adhesive-backed aluminum foil to process the holes in the inner panel. Roll a rigid vibration-damping material 2 - 3 mm thick on top of the foil.
4. Four- or five-millimeter soundproofing material will be the finishing layer.
5. Don't forget to craft the door card. First, glue the wavy sound absorber (10 - 15 mm), and on top of it a vibration isolation 2 mm thick.

Extreme noise isolation

The key purpose of this level of sound insulation is represented by the preparation of the car before the competition in sound pressure or loudness of the front acoustics. For processing the door in this case, it is necessary to use the thickest materials in order to ensure the greatest efficiency. The likelihood of overweighting the doors is too high, but this risk is no longer taken into account with such tuning. The steps for installing such insulation will be as follows:

1. At the first stage, the door is reinforced by means of aluminum strips glued onto the outer panel at small intervals. Also, the role of a reinforcing material can be played by strips of rigid vibration-insulating material.
2. At the next stage, it is necessary to roll vibration-absorbing material 4 mm thick between the gaps.
3. The next layer is represented by a sound absorber or soundproofing material based on latex film or waterproof glue. Do not forget to close the technological windows with aluminum sheets or polyester resin. The upper layer will be represented by vibration isolation with a thickness of 3-4 mm.
4. Pieces of vibration isolation are also used to process the door card, but the sound absorber must first be glued on. Its thickness should be as large as possible. The area covered by the sound absorber directly depends on the number of speakers installed in the door. Since there can be several midbasses, the door card is fixed on the iron part of the door by means of through bolts and only then the speaker system is mounted.

Soundproofing car doors is one of the most popular types of tuning. It makes the door heavier and seals, protects from outside noise, and improves the sound of music. There are minimum, average, maximum and extreme.

With the help of such tuning, different goals are achieved. This is getting rid of noise, drafts, improving acoustics, etc. The thickness of the door metal is the smallest in the entire body. The material resonates with sounds, vibrates, does not interfere extraneous noise... At the same time, the total area is significant, so their cladding is the first thing to start with insulating the interior.

Getting rid of external noise

This is one of the main reasons why "noise" of doors is made - this is what the common people call soundproofing. If no sounds from the street, which are emitted by people, other equipment, animals, industrial enterprises, and other sources, get into the car while driving, then the driver feels more comfortable. His attention is focused on the road and driving, he is not distracted and at the same time feels comfortable.

Getting rid of extraneous squeaks and bounce

The squeaks and rattles that your own car makes can also annoy and distract the driver. Soundproofing in this case does not solve the problem, but it will help not to be distracted by noise until it is completely eliminated.

Elimination of excessive blowing of drafts in the car

There are technological holes in the door. They are usually covered with casing and do not create drafts. But if gaps have appeared somewhere, the cladding has ceased to adjoin tightly, then an additional layer of insulation is mounted.

Improving door closing

When the car doors are closed, they begin to vibrate, and sometimes it is not possible to slam them shut the first time. The introduction of additional layers of insulation makes the structure heavier. As a result, it falls into place on the first try, without rattling, vibration.

Improving the sound of music in cars

While insulating doors to improve the sound quality of music in the car, many are trying to turn the structure into a completely closed "box". But this is unreal. There are drain holes here, a slot for side glass, and the walls themselves are not rigid enough. If you want to improve acoustics, the main thing is to get rid of resonances. It is they who form extraneous sounds, distort the signal reproduced by the speaker.

How is door soundproofing done?

The procedure includes the following steps:

• dismantling the door, its trim;
• vibration isolation;
• performance of noise insulation;
• assembly and installation.

Each stage has its own nuances.

The choice of materials for noise and vibration insulation

There is plenty of space under the skin for the thick seal material. The main condition for choosing is that it should not be too harsh. Otherwise, it will push the skin away from the metal where they fit snugly against each other.

Materials fall into three categories:

1. Bimasta. They consist of layers of mastic and bitumen with an outer coating of aluminum, paper or cloth. Thickness - 2-5 mm. A relatively new material on the market.
2. Vibroplasts. Consist of three layers: glue, foil, polymer water-absorbing material.
3. Visomat. The product is made of a bitumen-polystyrene mixture with an anti-adhesion layer on an adhesive basis. Protects against vibrations. Installation requires heating with a building hair dryer.

For vibration isolation of doors, Bitoplast, Visomat, Vibroplast Gold, StP Aero Plus, Accent Premium, Bomb Premium are suitable.

Materials differ in their characteristics. The choice is made based on the goals. You have to decide what you want: excellent acoustics, isolation from noise from the street or protection from drafts.

Soundproofing methods

All options have a different execution technology. Which method to choose is a personal matter for everyone.

Minimum

Its purpose is to reduce the level of noise coming from outside. It is not suitable for use of serious acoustics in a car. Advantages - ease of installation, low price... All that is required is to glue the door with a continuous layer of material. Thickness - at least 2 mm. The surface of the door card is pasted over. The isolate layer also acts as a protection against dust and water. This method is often chosen for soundproofing front doors.

Average

Used to reduce the level of noise coming from outside and also to improve the sound of the speaker system. Advantages - optimal price-quality ratio. Installation is more laborious than in the first case. A vibration isolation layer is applied. The second layer is soundproof. Additionally, it is recommended to install an acoustic lens.

Acoustic lens - a special device that looks like an optical lens, but made of different materials. It focuses the sound wave, does not allow it to scatter. As a result, the sound is clearer and louder.

Maximum

It is used to enhance the sound of a powerful speaker system with speakers in the doors. Eliminating sounds outside is not essential, but this problem is solved automatically. The procedure involves more steps than the minimum and average. We list all the layers of such sound insulation:

1. Vibration isolator up to 3 mm.
2. Sound absorber with adhesive layer.
3. Adhesive aluminum foil, used for technological holes.
4. rigid vibration isolator up to 2-3 mm.
5. Soundproof Splen or others.

For noise insulation of door cards, a layer of vibration-insulating material is laid. Also carry out the installation of speakers.

Extreme

It is installed for powerful acoustics. Advantages - complete isolation from all extraneous sounds, the most pure sound. This makes the door much heavier. Stages of gluing car doors:

1. The door is reinforced with aluminum strips or rigid vibration isolation.
2. A layer of thick vibration-absorbing material is placed between the reinforced ribs.
3. A glue-based noise absorber is placed on top.
4. The holes are covered with aluminum or a special resin.
5. Vibration isolation 3-4 mm is laid on top.
6. The final layer is made of a sound insulator.

For the processing of door cards, vibration and noise-absorbing thick materials are also used.

Sequence of the procedure

The obeshumka does not have clear, unambiguous instructions. Each car model has its own nuances. However, the sequence of actions is the same for everyone.

Dismantling

Before gluing the sound insulation on the doors in the car, they must be dismantled. Then remove the casing, remove the moisture-proof film. Clean all surfaces, degrease with a suitable product.

On the inside of the structure, a vibration isolation layer is glued between the stiffeners. The material should not be allowed to go over the ribs. This will create unnecessary air pockets and negate the effect. Therefore, you should carefully mark and cut the material. After the sticker, it is necessary to seal it; for this, a stitching roller is used. It is important to leave open drain holes at the bottom of the structure.

When finishing a shield with technological holes, one should be guided by the traces of the removed moisture-proof film. During installation, you can immediately cut holes for fasteners, otherwise it will be more difficult to find them later.

Noise isolation

Consider how to properly glue sound insulation in a car on the door:

• remove standard noise insulation;
• degrease the surface;
• measure, cut out the desired piece of material;
• glue the layer, carefully repeating all the bends of the sheathing;
• along the way, cut holes for the speaker, clips, a set of wires, a handle;
• skip a strip of anti-squeak material along the edge of the insulating layer.

After that, the structure is put back. For the rest of the doors, the scheme is exactly the same.

Advantages and disadvantages

Noise isolation has a number of such advantages:

• being in the car is more comfortable, more pleasant, nothing distracts;
• the car can be sold at a higher price;
• you will be able to use a good speaker system without losing sound;
• the door closes softly, without extraneous noise.

There is no unequivocal opinion whether it is worth doing it. Any tuning has pitfalls. The door becomes heavier, as a result sagging, hinges quickly deteriorate. The driver hears worse what is happening outside. You have to focus only on the mirrors.

Before starting tuning, you should study how to properly noise the doors of a car and find out what materials should be used, otherwise self tuning will lead to major repairs.

How to glue a car with soundproofing yourself

How to glue the car yourself with soundproofing is a topical question for any owner, regardless of the model and brand of the car, in last years they save money on noise insulation, so it is either very weak or absent altogether.
The process is not at all complicated, but after all, everyone wants to save money, so it is only important to know what can be used to make noise insulation in the car, to have the right tools and read our recommendations and advice, and after that you will cope no worse than the masters of this business.

Newbie mistakes

The most common mistakes car enthusiasts make when making noise insulation.

With the choice of the contractor company

A mistake when choosing a workshop threatens not with high-quality work, a banal loss of money and, as a result, a lack of noise insulation effect, and the most unpleasant thing, in this case, that you will conclude that it does not give any effect

Your presence in the room the craftsmen are working on your car

As a rule, craftsmen do not like it when clients constantly pry into their work:

• This is the opinion of most of the masters with whom I know personally.
• When someone constantly stands above your soul and looks under your arms in the process of work, even you can expect a very hostile reaction
• Almost no one likes it when someone constantly asks "will everything be ready soon?" affects the result not in the best way

Haste and no plan

When you are very fired up by the implementation of noise isolation and immediately want to do it:

• Starting work without planning will be fraught with a huge loss of time and, of course, money.
• You may need to travel several times to pick up a missing instrument
• It may happen that you have to redo the work again.
• Sound insulation once glued and then torn off is no longer suitable for repeated use - again a loss of money
• In addition, the process of soundproofing is a business that requires a lot of time and effort, so you should take into account the time and effort (for an hour or two you will not be able to do it), here you will have to be patient, perseverance and hard work, especially if you are a beginner

Wrong choice of materials

This is one of the most common and unpleasant mistakes, from not knowing how to properly make soundproofing in a car:

• As a rule, good, and even more high-quality materials always cost good money.
• Here, the habit of saving easily leads to new expenses.
• Not only will they flake off prematurely, which leads to corrosion of the case, the effect of such will be weak, and again you can argue that the sound insulation does not work.
• In addition, low-quality materials can be harmful to health, they, being in the cabin, will poison the air with vapors, and then you and the passengers will breathe.

Error with the choice of the level of noise isolation

When at first you decide that it is enough to just insulate the car to a minimum, then it will seem to you that you should have done better, more expensive, thicker, but this, as a rule, is a problem of very economical people and perfectionists

Error with choosing a place to perform work

The Internet is full of descriptions and photos of the do-it-yourself soundproofing process, which are carried out wherever they fall:

• Right on the street, near the office, on the side of the road and others
• Here the problem will be the fact that in the wrong place where you will make your soundproofing, you will either be extremely uncomfortable, the onset of night will catch you at the most inopportune moment
• And the most unpleasant thing is that in this case something will certainly be stolen from you, right from under your hands, you can lose not only tools but also interior elements, mobile, radio, video recorder, etc.

Use of unsuitable tools

Let's figure out how to make noise insulation in a car, if all work is done with only one screwdriver - and disassemble the car and roll up vibration isolation, then it will be at least difficult, although it seems to be real:

• However, if you want to do the job efficiently (so that something does not fall off later), disassemble / assemble the machine without any problems, then you will need the appropriate tools

Lack of confidence in their abilities

• to drown out external noise and to improve the sound quality of music
• From my own experience I will say that even the most primitive "noise" of the doors gives a wonderful effect, in the cabin the music starts to play much better
• With a minimum program for gluing doors, only one vibration-insulating material is required, vibroplast vibroplast "Silver" or "Gold" You need to glue from the inside of the door directly opposite the column
• It is important to glue the largest area with vibration-insulating material, the quality of insulation depends on it
• Here, too, it is better to take into account the weight of the material, if you overweight the doors, then over time it will sag and you will have to replace the hinges
• If you have a powerful audio system and you want to improve its sound, then you can't get off with minimal sizing.
• An integrated approach and at least four layers is required (photo below)

• The first layer is glued to the inside of the doors, where the material is glued through special holes
• You can again use a silver class vibroplast (or bimast bombs) behind the speaker
• And with the second layer - on top of the vibration-insulating material, lay a 4-millimeter splen (or Accent)
• Next, we isolate the doors from the outside
• In this version, it is necessary to completely glue all the technological holes, and make the volume of the door practically airtight, in which the speaker will play
• However, it is worth leaving the drain holes open so that condensation does not accumulate in the doors.
• Glue the outside with a vibroplast of the Silver class and on top of it with an accent or spleen
• The next step is to soundproof the door cards so that they do not emit squeaks and other unnecessary sounds.
• Here anti-creak material "Bitoplast" will come in handy
• In this zone, the thicker the layer, the better.
• "Crickets" inside the doors and pasting the rods and handles are performed with the help of Madeline - this is an antiskrip
• Rear doors are treated like the front
• If there are no speakers in them, then the number of layers is reduced and the type of material is chosen thinner.

Go to the roof

So:

• We make soundproofing of the roof to reduce outside noise from rain, exclude its vibration, and to remove "crickets":
• You already understood how to glue a car with soundproofing
• After gluing the ceiling, the effect in the rain is simply amazing - even in pouring rain, only muffled blows remain inside the cabin, which are almost imperceptible and do not cause discomfort
• Here you can use vibroplast Silver, the weight is important, the higher the weight of the roof, the more the center of gravity will shift, we recommend using an accent of 4 or 8 millimeters, even in two layers
• Opportunities are limited so that the headliner can be re-installed without interference

Car bottom

Soundproofing the bottom is done to reduce noise from the road surface, and from impacts from pebbles on the bottom of the car:

• Here you can use the best vibration dampers and with good layers, overlap, just do not glue the fasteners, otherwise there will be problems when assembling the cabin
• Top again Accent, better low thickness, but in two layers, here the wider the coverage area, the better the effect
• Close attention should be paid to the places of the wheel arches inside the cabin, it is better to glue them thicker (in two or three layers), use "bimast bombs" as a vibration isolator, in its absence, vibroplast gold

Trunk and wheel arches

There are a lot of noises and creaks in the trunk area, so you shouldn't miss it:

• Particular attention should be paid to the spare wheel well, if possible it should be completely covered with anti-vibration material
• Second Layer Accent Sound Absorber
• All trims in the trunk should be glued with anti-creak material "Bitoplast"
• Soundproof wheel arches necessary to increase the comfort in the cabin

Instructions for action for soundproofing wheel recesses outside:

• Take off the wheels
• Remove the plastic wheel arch liners (they cannot be thrown away, they serve as good sound insulators)
• Then you clean it from dirt and glue a vibration-insulating material on the surface of the arch, preferably "vibroplast of the Gold class"
• Ideally, apply "liquid" noise insulation of the "Noxidol" type, it is easier to apply and works better and the weight is less and excellent anti-corrosion protection, together with the arches, the bottom can also be processed from the outside

This is how all the fenders are soundproofed.

• If you do the job well, then the impact of the pebbles should not be heard at all.

What can replace sound insulation in a car?
An excellent question, you just have to ask it to local "craftsmen" and you will be given a bunch of advice from construction noise insulation to linoleum with felt:

• Construction noise is used, as a rule, outside the premises, so inside the cabin it can be toxic, in the engine compartment it can burn or melt, and the effect from it may not justify expectations
• Felt, even acoustic, is suitable in a car with a big stretch, because it absorbs moisture by itself, pulls it out of the air, so the car body will quickly rust, then felt is by no means a cheap pleasure
• To use felt in a car, it must be sealed in polyethylene
• We are not talking about the use of other "alternative" materials at all

That's all for me, in addition watch the video on your specific model.