Noise insulation of a car by construction materials. We make noise insulation with your own hands. Roof and floor of the cabin

The acquisition of a new car may not be at all such a joyful event as expected. The thing is that expensive cars Business class noise insulation of the cabin made on high levelAnd it is very different about cheaper machines. Here protection OT foreign noise It may not be perfectly or it will be performed on an extremely low level. Accordingly, comfort, especially with long trips, will be low.

In addition to the inability to fully enjoy a quiet music from the stereo system, the impact of noise is constantly negatively affecting the driver's body, reducing its attentiveness, the reaction rate and provoking quick fatigue. In addition, the irritability increases that "forces" the driver to choose a more aggressive driving style, which is fraught with various emergency situations.

Types of noise insulation of a car

Before how to properly make noise insulation in a modern car, you should know in which places it makes sense to place materials for noise insulation. In accordance with the placement location, the following types of noise insulation distinguish:

Depending on the main problem, you can make noise insulation in the car both complete and partial. In addition, depending on the materials used to work, the effect of thermo- and vibration insulation can be achieved, which increases comfort even more with long-term automotive movements.

To determine which material to choose for noise insulation of the car, you should know the main types of materials that have already proven their sufficient efficiency, as they have been developed specifically for cars.

What noise isolation better

What noise insulation to choose for the car itself is solved by the motorist on the basis of both the priority tasks that need to be solved, but also material opportunities. The most qualitatively solves the problem of interior insulation professional noise insulation of the car, but if there is a desire and a certain amount of free time, it can be done with their own hands, accurately observing the technology of sticking the materials used. It makes sense to pre-examine the instructions for vehicleSo that when disassembling there is no difficulty.

Definitely answer the question of which noise insulation for the car is almost impossible. It can be said that it is better to use special materials intended for the car - they take into account all the features and difficulties in operation, for example, constant vibration, temperature differences and high humidity. It is not worth fanatically to search for separately thermal insulation, separately vibro- and sound insulation, since all these properties are usually combined in one material. The only thing that is worth paying attention is to the heat resistance of the material used for the insulation of the engine compartment.

The cost of noise insulation for the car varies depending on technical features and the thickness of the material, but its acquisition with more than the high acoustic comfort in the cabin, the absence of a violep and vibration. Besides, in winter time The salon will be much warmer, and in the summer it will heat up much slower, even under the right sunlight. At the same time, to get the perfectly isolated salon, most likely it will be necessary to use several types of insulation, the main part of which will be equipped with a foil layer. See how this is done in practice can be on video

Objectives noise insulation salon

Installation Noise isolation in a car according to the reviews of the owners helps to achieve the following effects:

• soundproofing of the engine compartment;
• lowering noise when running gearbox;
• reducing noise from the road itself;
• elimination of foreign noise (squeaks) of plastic interior trim elements;
• thermal insulation of the cabin.

The installation of noise insulation on the car with your own hands is a forced measure, since automakers, seeking to reduce the cost of products as much as possible, pay minimal attention to this moment. In addition, an increasingly perfect suspension becomes quieter, respectively, noise insulation machine becomes more and less relevant. At the same time, even at the initial absence of squeaks and abundant noise in a new car, riding bad roads Very quickly will cause their appearance.

Foreneous noise penetrates inside the cabin through the doors, gender and ceiling, trunk and motor compartment. Meeting on its path numerous obstacles, it partially weakens, and partly goes into vibration, which is also perceived by a man as a noise. Hence the noise is allocated primary and secondary. Installation of noise insulation for the car allows you to effectively deal with both species. To achieve such an effect, it is better to be carried out comprehensively, that is, to sick the entire car with insulating materials.

Correct car noise insulation with your own hands: The main stages of work

Installation of vibration noise insulation cars can not be called a simple process. It includes four main stages.

1. Disassembly of the cabin (complete).
2. Laying (sizing) of selected insulation materials.
3. Installation of materials to combat the symbols in the cabin.
4. Assembly and assessment of the quality of work performed when the car moves.

Before smoking the car with noise insulation, its salon must be completely disassembled to the metal. To shoot or remove the torpedo, the car owner solves independently, depending on the availability of free time and desire. By dismantling, it is special accuracy to show with respect to fastening elements that may be broken or lost. At the end of the work on the analysis, it turns out a completely naked salon, all the surfaces of which are to be cleaned from dirt and careful degreasing. Only after that you can start the cloak of the car with noise insulation with your own hands.

Initially, the vibration insulation material is stacked, the area of \u200b\u200buse of which should be at least 80% of the area of \u200b\u200ball metal surfaces in the cabin. Noise insulation is fixed on top of it. From this rule, you can retreat in the event that the acquired material combines both of these qualities. It is worth understanding that, saving, and buying too thin or poor-quality material, all performed work will be in vain, since the desired result will not bring.

Attention! Working with isolation having a foil layer is better in gloves, since the likelihood of fairly deep cuts of foil is very high.

If the car's noise insulation is done correctly, in true problem A different embrying in the cabin that has not previously been noticed is transformed. Therefore, work aimed at combating creak is extremely desirable to perform immediately after installing noise insulation. For this purpose, special materials listed above are used, which fit between metal and plastic parts of the cabin. The salon assembly is carried out in the order of reverse disassembly.

Increased attention zones when conducting noise insulation

In conclusion, it should be noted that the best noise insulation for the car is a complex isolation. For its own, its device will need a lot of time. It is worth considering before starting work. Many drivers until the last doubt whether to make noise insulation of the car, but it is enough to carry out a very little time behind the wheel of a car with noise insulation of the cabin, as any doubts disappear literally instantly. Another roller showing the main points of work:

Conducting the modernization of its car, the rare driver will forget about such an important element as noise insulation. But in order for tuning to justify the expectations assigned to it, it is necessary to competently approach the installation of materials. About how the car's noise isolation is carried out with their own hands, will be told further.

WHY I need a car noise insulation

Many people wonder: "What will the insulation of the cabin?". In fact, after such a procedure, the motorist will notice a number of advantages:

1. The level of vibration in the cabin will decrease.
2. Noise will decrease.
3. The car will get thermal insulation (most of the materials are capable of it).

Of course, feel all this can only be proper selection Materials and compliance with installation technology. Therefore, if there is no confidence that the installation of noise insulation on the car with their own hands will be smooth, it is better to go to the service, or with particular care to explore the procedure.

The best materials for quality noise insulation and their prices

If you contact a specialized store, it can be noted that there is a wide variety of noise and heat woolly insulation for the car. Make a choice can be quite difficult.

STP Vibroplast Silver

Flexible coating that perfectly absorbs vibration. Material has aluminum base and a layer of self-adhesive film. The coating has a markup (squares 5 × 5 cm), by which you can easily cut the desired forms. When installing is not required. The cost is about 200r per sheet. The thickness is 2mm. You can noisely insulate the car with this material in the area of \u200b\u200bthe doors, trunk, hood and roofs.

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You can also purchase the GOLD vibroplast. It has the same properties, but thicker (2,3mm), so it best absorbs vibration.

Accent 10.

It is made of polyurethane and metallized film. Also has a self-adhesive surface. Coating thickness - 10mm. Suitable for mounting in the trunk and under the hood, as well as on the partition of the engine compartment. In addition to the absorption of sound, it also has insulating properties. average cost It is 250r per sheet.

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Splen

Great option for soundproofing the car. The material has a special layer for gluing to the surface. Thickness may be different: from 2 to 8 mm. The coating does not absorb moisture and retains its properties in a wide range of temperatures.

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Splin must be pasted on the vibrating absorbing material. The air temperature should be about 25 degrees. The cost of such sound insulation may vary depending on the thickness.

Noise insulation felt

Now many companies offer ordinary felt as noise insulation. It can be imported or domestic, have various brandsBut the essence remains the same. But is it worth choosing this fairly expensive material?

Manufacturers claim that felt acts much better than the same splen. And indeed it is. However, you need to remember that this material absorbs water well. And in this state it stops working.

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Therefore, if the choice fell on felt, it will be necessary to take care of its sealing. In addition, sticking noise insulation using a regular film will not work (it is simply no). Therefore, the procedure is significantly complicated.

Liquid noise insulation: protection arches and bottoms outside

Another popular way to be offered to make car noise insulation. It is used in parallel with conventional materials.

The composition for liquid sound insulation is applied on the bottom of the car and wheel arches. To do this, you can use a brush or pulverizer.

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Such noise isolation with your own hands is able to significantly reduce the noise level in the cabin. However, it is advisable to use it together with other means of isolation.

Tools for installing sound insulation do it yourself

In addition to the material itself, the correct car noise isolation will require availability additional equipment. For work is necessary:

• Construction hairdryer (home does not fit, as the temperature of his work is insufficient).
• Solvent (used for degreasing surfaces).
• Scissors.
• Rolling roller (optional, but can significantly simplify the process).

How to spend complete sound insulation cars

If all that are required by the materials for noise insulation of the car with their own hands, already purchased, you can proceed to the main work. The procedure will be somewhat different, depending on which part of the body is isolated.

Work on the hood

Do not count that the noise of the car with your own hands pasted on the hood, completely relieve sound. Of course, the material will absorb part of the waves, but the noise will still be. The main task of staging the material in this area is thermal insulation for the winter.

It is necessary to competently select material for work. He must have enough thickness and be resistant to high temperaturesTo avoid fire (focus and vibratinglast). But it is not necessary to get involved: too heavy hood can disrupt the work of the shock absorbers.

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Factory sound insulation does not touch: the new material is mounted on top of it. The order of how to glue noise insulation in the machine will be as follows:

1. First, the car washing insulation. After that, you should cut the material in size. If the body shape is highly difficult - it is desirable to pre-prepare pant out of the paper.
2. Next, the surface of the car is cleaned: the parts that interfere with the work are removed, the rust and dirt are believed. After that, it is necessary to carry out degreasing.
3. Finally, you can proceed to applying material. The procedure will depend on the selected coverage. The universal instructions in this case do not exist, so you need to follow the recommendations of the manufacturer "Shumkov".

Noise insulation doors

Perhaps this is one of the most important stages To protect the cabin from foreign sounds. If you correctly do the car noise insulation in the area of \u200b\u200bthe door, the sound from the operation of the systems will be practically silent, and the quality of the sound of music will improve.

The choice of material will depend on the objectives of the work. In most cases, you can do the layer of vibroplast. However, if the goal is to improve the operation of the audio system, it is better to use a minimum of 4 layers of materials (although it is not necessary to get involved, as it can lead to a saving of doors).

To properly attach a car, the order of the layers will be like this:

• First there is a vibroplast (you can use similar vibro-absorbing materials). It is mounted inside the door. It is necessary to glue the vibration insulation in the car and comply with the manufacturer's recommendations.
• Next is installed splen. For high-quality insulation there will be a layer of 4-8mm.
• Of course, two layers will be quite most of the car owners. But, if the car is a high-quality audio system, it is advisable to add more. Now the vibroplast and spill are glued outside the doors (under the door cards). It is also desirable to take all the technological holes.
• The next step will be the installation of the anti-scrip material. Madelene and Bitoplast will suit these purposes.
• Thus, the front doors are insulated. For the rear procedure will be similar. But if there are no speakers in them, you can make smaller layers of materials.

Noise insulation ceiling

The next step will be "noise" ceiling. This stage is very important because it is able to reduce the noise level in the cabin during the rain.

For the ceiling there will be a layer of vibroplast and 1-2 layers of splash. Vibro and noise insulation of the car with your own hands is selected so that it is not too much to move the center of gravity up. In addition, it is necessary to take into account that the factory casing must be attached.

Floor insulation

Neither the professional nor budget noise insulation of the car will not be able to do without qualitative "hack" of the floor. Here you can also hardly limit yourself in the materials used.

For the floor, heavy soundproofing "Bimast Bomb" is suitable. And on top of it passes the layer of splen. Special attention is paid to wheel niches.

Sanders and wheeled arches

Such sound insulation will allow you to get rid of noise when driving on snow or soil. For work, you will need to remove the shoes. Next they are cleaning. Vibroplast is pasted on their inner side (preferably, Gold). After that, you can return them to the place.

For additional isolation, you can handle the liner with liquid "Shumkov". This will significantly improve the effect.

Important! Regardless of the application area, it is necessary to ensure that noise insulation lay exactly and without gaps.

To noise insulation hood is an ambiguous attitude. Some begin with the overall insulation of the car from the hood as a "workout", because It is quite simple in terms of installation element. At the same time note a very weak effect. Others believe that noise insulation of the hood is a meaningless spending of time and means. I can say that all these opinions have the right to exist. My general conclusions are:

• noise insulation of the hood gives an additional effect only in the complex with noise insulation of the engine shield, because Sound waves penetrated through the hood, partially fall through the windshield in the salon
• noise insulation of the hood creates an effect of additional thermal insulation, which reduces the engine cooling time in winter, but also has the opposite effect in summer

In any case, the advantages are more, and given the minor costs of material and ease of installation, I recommend not to neglect this stage.

First layer: Vibration isolation of the hood.

As a vibration-hammer, it is necessary to use only materials that require heating for mounting. Because Often, under the hood, a high temperature regime is maintained, a softer material can "swim". The presence of a foil layer is also desirable, which will additionally work as a reflector of thermal waves. The MP Visomat or Bimast is fully suitable for these purposes. Fully flat elements between rigidity ribs are processed.

Second layer: Soundproofing / Heat insulation.

Noise insulation of the roof of a car

The roof of the car is actually the only element that does not normally have almost no vibration and noise insulation. In most cases, if the roof does not have stamped rigid ribs, it is a thin metal sheet - an excellent source of vibrations. Noise protection - only salon casing. The noise insulation of the roof allows to reduce the noise from passing by large-sized cars (trucks, buses, etc.), wind, rain. But the roof noise insulation is especially important for audio training. A less powerful system equipped with a subwoofer is easily "swaying" the roof, forcing it to produce resonant pride.

The roof, as a stage of noise insulation, perhaps the easiest in terms of implementation. Many people try their strength on this site.

First layer: vibration isolation.

Based on his own experience, I advise you to use a visome of 2mm, covering 80-100% of the free surface between the rigidity ribs. This material has proven itself very well on flat squares. Often, transverse stiffeners, in contact with the roof metal, publish a ring knock on the bodies. Therefore, they can be pasted small transverse strips of any vibration-pulp.

Second layer: noise insulation.

As a noise absorber on the roof, the "focus" with a thickness of minimum of 10 mm is used. All flat surfaces are covered. The ribs of rigidity (both transverse and perimeter are processed by a bit plastom of 5 or 10 mm, depending on the distance between the trim and ribs of stiffness. Platephones, handles, etc. It is advisable to cover 5mm bitoplast, because when setting from In place and tightening, can turn the roof covering.

You can buy materials in our online store noise insulation

Noise insulation of the engine shield from the side of the cabin.

The engine shield from the cabin is, perhaps the most responsible, important and complex stage of noise insulation. Responsible - because the motor partition is actually the only obstacle for noise between the salon and the main sources of noise - the engine and the checkpoint. Complicated - because for high-quality conducting insulation, it is necessary to dismantle the instrument panel. IN modern cars Foreign production is pretty difficult to do this, so the engine shield is treated where it is possible without removing the torpedo. In other cases (domestic and foreign cars of the budget class), this is quite real. Not so much damn, like his little! Well, the importance of this stage is indisputable. Many owners of the car seek with noise insulation as much as possible to reduce the noise from the engine, especially on high revs. What results are achieved during high-quality processing of the engine shield, can be found in the section Articles section.

First layer: vibration isolation.

Motor shield - the most vibrating body element, because As close as possible, it is located to the force aggregate. As a vibration-pulp, use the materials with the highest CMP, such as bimava bombs or a visomat. Try to handle the maximum surface area by paying special attention Flat surfaces and arms of the front wheels. In order to make it easier to do, use pieces of small material (pretend from the place). All "extra" technological holes also close the vibration filter, or close them with the maximum overlap. Side walls are not as loaded with vibrations, but have many technological holes. Close them with a completely thinner material to avoid then problems with the installation of facing.

Second layer: noise insulation.

As a noise absorber on the entire surface of the shield and arches, the "accent" thickness is 10-15mm. The thicker - the better. Take a torpedo design. It usually allows you to use and thicker materials. It is necessary when dismantling dashboard It is noted the places of its adjacent to the body and the place of contact (usually visible in dents on regular sound insulation). In these places, use Bitoplast 10mm, because Well, it is compressed and will additionally work as an anti-graded material. Most often, this place is the upper part of the engine shield immediately under the windshield. Also treated with bitoplast side panel. Try to glue the emphasis as big slices in advance by making cuts in the fields of wire output, thrust, etc.

Third layer: Soundproofing.

On the arches of the front wheels, it is recommended to use an additional layer of soundproof "Splang" over noise insulation. This is due to the fact that the arches are subject not only to vibrations and air noise, but also mechanically exposed to flying gravel, stones, etc. Used "Splen" 4mm or 8mm. However, 4mm is quite enough.

Fourth layer: regular noise insulation.

After conducting vibration and noise insulation, regular noise insulation is installed. Perhaps it will have to be partially trimmed, because It will interfere with the installation of the torpedo. But without its use, the effect of work performed will be significantly lower. If it is not either it came into disrepair - buy a new one or use a similar material with a fibrous structure. (See the "Materials" section).

I will add that increase the efficiency of the engine shield noise insulation and additionally reduce the noise of the engine, can be conducted torpedo, using it as an acoustic shield.

SGM-SAMARA.RU.

Salon side insulation

You can buy materials in our store SGM-SAMARA.RU

Noise insulation of car doors

Noise insulation of the doors of the car - undoubtedly, is also very important and necessary. Through the doors there are noise from both the road and passing by cars. Moreover, the same attention must be paid to both vibro and noise insulation. In addition to reducing noise, it is often parallel to the target to improve the sound quality of the audio system. In addition to the basic effect on the reduction of noise, the following "pluses" from noise insulation of doors can be noted:

• doors are closed more clearly and quietly, due to increased mass
• improved sound quality audio system

The minus one is an increase in the mass and the sagging of the door with time. Although this happens when too "fond of" vibration insulation.

First layer: vibration isolation.

Doors are not so loaded with vibrations, such as a motor shield or a floor tunnel. But they are most often the place of installation of the front acoustics, which causes the resonant metal pride. Therefore, you must first decide whether they will place the installation of audio components with high quality quality requirements. This will depend on the applied version of the vibration insulation. The visual example of the preparation of doors and installation of acoustics is considered in the section "Articles".

However, with any embodiment, on the inner face side of the door (the one that closers to the street), it is recommended to apply a Silver or Gold vibratinglast (or vibroplast M2), with a pasting surface close to 100%. Be careful - do not close the ventilation and drain holes!

Damping same inner (The one is closer to the cabin) - depends on the selected option. If acoustics are not installed, or there is an acoustics of low power - it is enough to carry out the vibration-fixing of flat sections, such as a bimaster super or a MP visome.

If it is planned to install a powerful sound system, the metal of the inner surface of the door is completely closed by the same materials. All technological openings including. Before that, I recommend that you check the performance of all the mechanisms of the lock and windows, spend the stretcher of the fasteners and make lubrication. Closing the holes - you will turn the door to a closed box (or close to this), which will have a positive effect on the quality of the acoustics.

Second layer: noise insulation.

It is divided into two stages: noise insulation of the door itself and noise insulation of the door sheath. For the first stage, the focus of 10mm is used. It is well compressed, which makes it easier to install the trim. If acoustics are installed - right behind it, on the front inner surface of the door, make a circle of bitoplast 10mm or 5mm, sizes by 30-50% more holes under the speaker. The goal is to absorb reflected waves from the acoustics, so that they did not act in the opposite direction on the dynamics diffuser. Accent Try to stick a single sheet.

The cover of the door is not only a source of creak and vibrations, but also allows it to be used as an additional acoustic shield. To reduce vibrations, on the reverse side of the trim, pieces of vibroplast M1 are pasted on flat sections. If the lifting consists of several parts - use the vibroplast in the connection places and on the joints, thereby strengthening them.

Then the entire surface is pasted Bitoplast 5mm with the allen on the edges. After trimming the surplus - it will not allow the skin to creak about metal door.

Naturally, prerequisite When installing the skin in place - its rigid fastening. Replace the pistons to new or use the screws where it is possible.

In the car, many of us spend a sufficiently large amount of time, so it makes sense to make it most comfortable and convenient. Noise in the cabin of the beloved "Iron horse" may seem no more than annoying trifle, but if you often use a car, especially to overcome large distances, then pleasant rides can turn into a real torture. To get rid of discomfort, you can make noise insulation of the car - it will relieve you from extra sounds and will give the opportunity to enjoy your favorite music or just silence. In addition, properly made noise insulation will make your car, and in the cold season, it will reduce heat loss from the salon, thereby saving money to you.

Distribution of materials for noise insulation of the car by body

There is no one source of extraneous sounds in the car - they can come from different parts. The sources of noise are not only the air flows that enhance the body, but also the tires from the contact with the road surface, and the poorly collected elements of the cabin, which, after reaching certain speed, begin to vibrate. The main sources of noise of many carsespecially budget - force aggregate, suspension and transmission; Unnecessary sounds arise due to non-compliance with the balance, improper design calculations and not enough high-quality materials.

If you decide to make a car, you can go in two ways - easier or more complex. Simple, but more costly financially - entrust work to the Masters Station maintenance. Specialists who have repeatedly conducted noise insulation will make it better than the newcomer, but also cost it will be more expensive, especially on official hundred. But even service clients cannot be completely confident in the proper quality of materials and execution of the procedure, the absence of which can manifest itself after a while. In addition, the cost of such a procedure is often overpriced.

You can make work cheaper, if you do everything yourself - in this case you will have to pay only for the materials, but also the responsibility for the result is shifted at you. In addition, the procedure will take room, knowledge of the car device and self-insulation device, a large amount of time to disassemble and assemble the cabin. To prevent breakdowns, for example, broken fasteners, improper build finishes, a loose fit of the panels, work must be performed carefully.

Materials for car noise insulation

There are three types of noise insulation materials for the car: the first, vibration-ham, is designed to absorb vibrations, transform them to heat and weightliness of the metal. Vibodmospheres also perform an anti-corrosion function at the expense of anti-corrosion materials contained in them.

The heat and sound insulators have a porous structure that does not skip the sound outside and holds heat inside the cabin.

Anti-graded materials make it possible to neutralize the friction of poorly adjacent decoration elements.

Something useful for you:

Organization of work on noise insulation machine

Before conducting the procedure of noise insulation, you need to disassemble the car interior

Noise isolation technology is approximately the same. First you need to disassemble the interior: under this we mean the removal of upholstery, panels, disconnecting of electronics. After dismantling excess, the inside of the cabin is drying, after which the damaged parts of the factory noise insulation are removed, which could be detached, swell or dug. If rust stains are present, they are removed, and the treated zones are ground and painted. Finally, all surfaces are degreasing - the mount should be as reliable as possible. Failure to comply with the technology of the preparation of the car will affect treadmillAnd work will have to redo.

The technology of processing different zones of the car is different. For example, the main emphasis must be done on vibration-absorbing materials, because the arches themselves are, in fact, do not vibrate, but broadcast vibrations on smooth areas. For the floor, the materials are chosen that are intended for zones exposed to high vibration load, since it is one of the main sources of noise due to the proximity of vibrating nodes. As for the doors, at the factory almost do not pay attention to their noise insulation, despite the fact that it is through them that a sufficiently large number of noise penetrates. When working with the hood, especially if under it is hidden, attention is paid to the selection of vibration-ham. They are combined with noise insulators applied on ceilings; In this zone, noise occurs due to air flow.

Video - Noise Isolation Your Auto

First, all the necessary surfaces (covered about 65-70% of the area) are treated with vibration-emphasis, after which there is a turn of insulators and anti-graded materials. A paper template is prepared for which in the future and cut out the workpiece (do not forget about folk wisdom "Seven times will die - once again"); After that, it is covered with glue (for self-adhesive materials, this step is skipped).

Print insulating material stands carefully so that air bubbles are left between it and the metal; It is better to spend a little more time and do everything as carefully as possible than to spoil the outskirts and then redo everything. After that, you need to collect the interior back, connect the electronics and fix all the panels - this stage is not easier and sometimes more complicated. Ideally, the car should look as if no one contacted him, but when he was deprived of foreign sounds when driving, which were so annoyed earlier.

Cost of work

Note that learn and from the first time to properly make noise insulation of the car, reading the description of the sequence of actions or watching a couple of videos, it is impossible - the best thing Pourge into a similar procedure, for example, if your friend makes it. If you independently make noise insulation of the car, about 9000-12,000 rubles will go to the materials, in the car service for this service they will seem to at least 20,000 rubles. As you can see, with independent procedure, there is a significant savings, but in the case of which the responsibility for the unsatisfactory result also lies at you. In any case, noise insulation, whether it is independent or conducted by qualified specialists, is one of the necessary manipulations for most car models, because manufacturers in pursuit of savings are often not paid to the comfort.

Very often, extraneous noises are hampered in the car. They are not only "pressure" on the brain, but also cause certain harm to the body. For this, motorists often make noise insulation, which protects both the driver and passengers from all squeaks and foreign noise.

The choice of material for noise insulation depends on your goals, that is, insulation for better sounding of music and noise reduction will be different.

Since in most cases the budget is limited, then it is not necessary to make noise insulation in the entire car. It is better to start with the doors, and then move to the floor, the trunk, and so on. As for the toolset, it will be necessary for a construction hairdryer, a roller roller (needed to roll the material for insulation), scissors for cutting material, solvent (for degreasing the surface before applying noise insulation).

Materials

Vibroplast Silver

This material is designed to absorb vibration. According to the structure is elastic and flexible. Externally is an aluminum foil and polymer self-adhesive coating. There is on the aluminum side square markup (5x5 cm)Through which it is very easy to cover the sheets on parts of the desired size. Vibroplast Silver Water-repellent, resistant to the effect of the external environment, is not subject to corrosion, it has hermetic properties. Regardless of the surface relief, this vibroplast is very easy to assemble. When installing, the material does not need to be heated. Thickness - 2 mm, weight - 3 kg / square meters. m. Designed for insulation of the floor in the cabin, doors, roofs, side parts of the body, the caps of the hood and trunk, the shield of the front side of the cabin.

Vibroplast GOLD.

Analogue of the Vibroplast Silver, but more in thickness (2.3 mm). Because of the greater thickness absorbs more vibration. Designed for noise insulation of all those parts of the machine that are listed above.

Bimast Bomb

Material that absorbs vibration. Bimast bombs are a multilayer material, the front layer of which forms an aluminum foil, then a bitumen sheet is coming, after it is a rubber layer, which is protected by an anti-adhesive film. To mount this material, it must be warm up to 40 - 50 ° C. It has a water-repellent effect and is resistant to decomposition under the influence of environmental factors. This material best absorbs vibration. Perfect for audition audience. Weight is 6 kg / sq. M., And the thickness is 4.2 mm. Designed to insulate the shield front, tunnel, arches of wheels, zones under the silencer and the cardan shaft.

Splane 3004.

Material for sound insulation. Self-adhesive. Provides excellent thermal insulation. Mount this film is very easy, with an angle of tilt surface not important. This material will be perfectly lying on the vertical and surface curve. Equipped with water-repellent property, not exposed to the external environment. Weight of 1 square. The meter of the film is 0.42 kg, and the thickness is 4 mm. Withstands temperature drops in the range from -40 ° C to + 70 ° C. Suitable for handling the arches of the wheels, the shield front from the cabin, doors and tunnel.

In addition to Splin 2004, there is a variant of splang 3008 with a thickness of 8 mm, as well as splang 3002 with a thickness, respectively, 2 mm.

Splane 3004 glue is needed by a second layer on the material absorbing vibration. Splen can be mounted on the doors, rear and front arches, sidewalls.To fastening the most durable, it is necessary to clean the surfaces that are glued together, with acetone or solvent.

In order for the film to attach the most well, the temperature of the medium should be in the range from + 18 ° C to + 35 ° C. At such a temperature, the film will retain its adhesive properties when the outer medium temperature drops from -40 ° C to + 70 ° C. Specialists do not recommend fixing Splamen 3004 if the temperature on the street fell below + 10 ° C, since the initial force of adhesion will be too small. You do not need to pull the adhesive tape before installation, and the protective layer needs to be removed directly before applying.

Bitoplast 5.

The material-seal, absorbs the noise, eliminates any rattling and creaking in the cabin. Made on the basis of polyurethane foam, there is a sticky layer, a protective anti-adhesive layer, which is impregnated with a special solution. Water-repellent material that will last for a very long time will not be detected under the influence of the external environment, provides thermal insulation. Without smell.

It will perform its function even at a temperature in -50 ° C. Material thickness - 5 mm, weight - 0.4 kg / sq. M. There is a version of 10 mm thick (Bitoplast 10).

Accent 10.

Material for sound insulation. It is a composition of the needle-free metallized film, polyurethane foam with an elastic structure and adhesive layer for mounting with an anti-adhesive layer for protection. This material is well kept warm. Wide operating frequency range. The percentage of absorbed noise is 90%. The total thickness is 10 mm. Weight - 0.5 kg per 1 sq.m. Temperature Rangein which the material will perform its functions, is -40 - +100 ° C.

The material is kept on the surface with a strength of 4 H / cm. Designed to protect the covers of the hood and trunk, as well as the partitions of the engine compartment.

Madelin

Decorative material that plays the role of the seal. Made based on black tissue. The thickness of the material is 1-1.5 mm. There is a sticky layer with a protective anti-adhesion layer. The strength with which the material is kept on the surface is at least 3 n / cm. Suitable for mounting in gaps between the elements of the cabin and body, in the gaps on the dashboard, and can also be sealing the air ducts.

All listed materials are products of one company - STP.. But there are other manufacturers whose products are not inferior on the quality of the product of the firm mentioned.

Noise insulation hood and hood cover

There is an opinion that noise insulation of the hood will protect you from that noise that generates the engine. This opinion is mistaken. If the hood is noise insulation, the engine will not "suffer" in winter from the cold. To accomplish this operation, the Silver vibroplast will be needed.

If you want to make noise insulation of the hood, but you need to take into account the weight of the material so as not to overload the hood too, since otherwise its shock absorbers that will need to be changed. In order to remove the vibration, the vibrousplasts are used, which are sufficiently lungs, therefore create a small load. So that under the hood, heat has been maintained, use the emphasis that protects the engine compartment from supercooling into winterAnd in the summer will protect the motor from overheating.

At the stage of manufacture in the car make their thermal insulation. Additional preparations of a similar kind should not replace "native" insulation, and should complement. Therefore, the thickness of the additional material should be so that the regular sound insulation can be returned.

If a standard noise insulation is installed on the machine, then it must be made with your own hands. To do this, you need to pick up the most thick material - at least 15 mm. And if you add more and the material that will absorb vibration, then you will be fenced from outsided sounds from under the hood, and the motor will not suffer from cold.

Noise insulation doors

This type of insulation is aimed at getting rid of himself from outside the outside of the outside world, as well as in order for music in the car better. Often, even the most ordinary noise insulation can create "miracles", why the music in the cabin will be heard at times better. In order to make the minimum "Shumkov", it will be enough to take the usual vibroplast "Silver" and "Gold". Fix the material is needed inside the door opposite the column. The layer need as much of the vibroplast as possible, since the smaller the thickness of the metal, the more it will be necessary to spend noise insulation.

Before making insulation from noise, you need to calculate the weight of the material that will go on protection. If the weight of the door with insulation will be excessive, then the likelihood is that it will simply resist, because of what you need to change the door loops. If the car is worth a good audio system, you will need at least 4 layers of insulating material, in order to music in the cabin sounded well.

First you need to protect the inside of the doors. In this case, it is necessary to lock the material through special holes in the door in the back of the speakers. On top of the vibroplast you need to put Splin with a thickness of 4 mm.

Then you need to isolate the outer part of the doors. In order for the sound of music to be more "complete", you need to take away the part of the door where the speaker is set. Plus, after the procedure done, the door will become more rigid, which will also have a positive effect on the sound of music. The outer part needs to be covered by the "Silver" vibroplast, and then put Splane.

Next you need to pay attention to the door cards. They need to be processed so that they do not publish squeaks and other unnecessary sounds. To do this, you need to take anti-slip bitoplas or similar material for noise insulation.

Attention should also be accommodated with handles and thrusts that need to be covered with Madelein's material against the screens. Handle rear doors It is necessary similar to the front. If the dynamics are not mounted on the door, then you can apply less than a layer of simpler material.

Ceiling and roof insulation

Car enthusiasts handle the roof of their "swallows" in order to noise outside the comfort of movement. After you make the ceiling noise insulation, even the strongest rain will not "beat" on the head. Only light deaf blows will be tangible, which will not deliver strong discomfort.

For this type of insulation, the vibroplast of the species listed above is suitable. It is advisable to take the easiest material, since an excessive load on the ceiling may affect the fact that the center of gravity is too much shifted upwards, and this very badly affects the handling. The thickness of the splane used should be 4 or 8 mm. If the thickness is insufficient, then you can put 2 layers. Restrictions on this procedure are that after mounting the material it was possible to quietly return the ceiling trim.

Floor insulation

The main purpose of this type of isolation is to reduce the noise from the contact of the car with the roadpapers, as well as from the blows about the bottom of the machine of small items. The choice of material is unlimited, that is, you can take the best vibration and noise insulators. Typically take to the insulation of Paul Bimast Bombs. This material is the best in characteristics, but by weight and the hardest. On top of this vibration absorber put the material that absorbs the noise and keeps the heat (splang 8 or 4).

Sometimes it is very inconvenient to use fat Splin, so you can take the material less thick, but the layer will need not one, but two layers. Splen should be covered by the entire floor area, you can not leave the gaps.

Most of all noise comes from the wheels, so the wheel arches must be protected. In this place you need to use 2 - 3 layers of material with sufficient thickness. Best of all, the vibration will protect "Bimast Bomb". You can use another material, but the layer will need not 1, and 2 layers.

Noise insulation trunk, arches and wheeled niches

Protect the trunk and fifth door near the hatchbacks is extremely important, since it is from there that most unnecessary creaks and noise comes. If you want to put a subwoofer in the car, then it is necessary to make noise insulation of the trunk.

Special attention should be paid to the spare wheel niche and try to completely attach it with a material absorbing vibration. All sheathing in the trunk should be covered with bitoplast, which will protect you from creak.

Wheel niches need to shock noise insulating material so that you can feel more comfortable in the cabin. If everything should be done as it should, then you will almost not feel the noise that makes the wheels in the process of interaction with the roadpapers.

Before laying an additional insulator, you must first remove the "native" sneakers, which also protect against noise. Then you need to clean the arch from dust and dirt, and after that it is possible to lay material for vibration insulation. Most often use the "Gold" vibroplast or analogue. Experts are recommended to carry out the processing of wheel niches with anti-gravel, which will protect the metal from corrosion, and will also perform the role of a noise insulator. In addition to the niches themselves, you can rebuild and fenders, which can be prelayed with vibroplast, and then fasten into place. If pebbles are fighting about these sneakers, then the sound of contact will not hear.

In order to make movement in the car more comfortable, it is not necessary to contact the specialists. Everything can be done personally and much cheaper.