Most budget cars It does not boast good noise insulation, and some of them, incl. domestic productionIn general, at least some. Sound of a working motor, transmission, suspension, tires, as well as external sounds not only annoyed, but also tire the driver, especially in long trips. So you have to our car owners independently refuse such machines to get rid of excess noise in the cabin.

You can dispense cars like in specialized servicewhere for it you will take at least 20 thousand rubles and own forces In the conditions of the garage. This procedure is not so much complicated how much time is time, because it implies disassembly of seats, door cards, interior cover elements, trunk, etc. But if you still decide, and make it right, silence in the cabin will delight you not one year.

To begin with, we define the main places through which noise penetrates into the salon. These include:

• hood;
• doors;
• bottom;
• partition between the engine compartment and the cabin;
• roof of the cabin;
• luggage compartment.

It is these elements that are treated.

Noise insulation with your own hands What materials are required: Instructions, photos and video

There are three types of materials used in the process of exclusion car:

• vibrating absorbing;
• sound absorbing;
• pastener.

Vibrating absorbing materials (vibration-pitchers)

The process of absorption of vibration is based on internal friction arising in the material. For the most part, such materials are manufactured based on butyl mastic or bitumen having high degree Mechanical losses. There are also so-called bimers consisting of two layers: bitumen and mastic.

Vibropoloters on the one hand have a glue layer, significantly simplifying installation, and on the other - a protective coating in the form of fabric, dense paper or aluminum foil. Consider the most popular materials.

1. Bimast is a relatively new two-layer material (mastic and bitumen). It has 3 varieties: "Standard" (thickness 3 mm) with a tissue coating, "super" (4 mm) with a coating of thick paper, and "bombs" (4 mm) with an aluminum coating.

2.Vibroplast is a plastic material based on a polymer adhesive composition with a coated coating as a durable aluminum foil. Until recently, the material was available on sale two varieties: M1 (1.5 mm thick) and m2 (thickness 2.3 mm), but not so long ago, the Silver vibratinglast (2 mm) and "GOLD" appeared on sale (2 , 3 mm). This modern material differs from M1 and M2 in the fact that with the same thickness it has a larger coefficient of mechanical losses: 0.25 and 0.33, respectively.

3. Visomate - self-adhesive vibration-absorbing material based on bitumen. The sale is presented with two species: PB (without coating, thickness 2 and 3.5 mm) and MP (with an aluminum coating, thickness 2.7 mm).

Sound absorbing materials

Sound-absorbing materials are used to protect the cabin from outdoor noise. Usually they are applied by the second layer on the vibrating detergent. They also have a glue assembly layer. The most popular sound absorbers are:

Splen - lightweight material based on fine polyethylene foam polyethylene. It does not absorb moisture, resistant to temperature differences;

Barrier - similar material from polyethylene;

Vibroton - a soundproof based polyethylene with a bitumen layer.

Packing materials

Gasket materials are designed to eliminate friction between plastic interior elements. Most often they are used to delete parts dashboard and door cards.

These include:

Bitoplast is an elastic polyurethane with a thickness of 5-20 mm, impregnated with a special waterproof solution, and equipped with an adhesive assembly layer;

Madeline is a decorative material on a tissue basis with a thickness of 1-1.5 mm.

Calculation of the number of materials

Calculate the desired amount of materials for noise insulation of the car is easy, however, it will be necessary to disassemble the salon, trunk, and measure all the roulette. We offer a simpler way. Below is a table with already carried out by calculating materials for different classes of machines. This, of course, inaccurate indicators, but sufficient to understand how much they need, and how much it turns out.

B - vibrating absorbing material;

ZV - sound absorbing material;

P - gasket material.

The number of material in m 2 is indicated.

If you want to delete the instrument panel, add unnecessary meter-one and a half of the plug material.

What else will need for noise insulation

In addition to the materials you need warm box Or a garage (in the summer, you can work on the street under a canopy). When working, the surrounding temperature should not be below 18 0 C. Otherwise, the material will be bad to the surface.

Also need to take care to be at hand required tools and funds:

• working gloves;
• white Spirit;
• several sheets of cardboard;
• industrial dryer;
• rag;
• construction roulette (ruler);
• small rigid roller or soft spatula;
• pencil or marker.

Noise insulation hood

Start work is better from the hood. This is the easiest plot on which you can stretch cut and glue special materials. For the hood, you can use inexpensive vibration and sound absorbers. Vibroplast M1 is perfectly suitable as the first - Splin as the second.

1.In the hood and inspect it with inner. If there is thermal insulation, take it carefully. The inner surface of the hood lid is inhomogeneous. It has symmetrically located deepening. In them, in fact, you need to lay insulation.

2. Processing the surface of White-spirits and wipe the cloth dry. We measure, place and make patterns from cardboard, corresponding to forms and dimensions of recesses.

3. In the vibrant material on the vibrating material. Cut.

4. The carved item warming up the construction hairdryer so that it becomes more elastic.

5. When the protective film on the adhesive layer, glue the vibropolotor on the selected area. After that, again heating it with a hairdryer and quit to the surface with a maximum force using a roller or a spatula;

6. When all the recesses are punctured, we cut out the same way and glue the sound-absorbing material - Splang.

7. Remove the insulation.

Noise insulation doors

This process is somewhat more complicated, as the doors have a more complex design, rather than the hood cover. In addition, good noise insulation in the door is needed even in order to ensure the high-quality sound of the front speakers of the acoustic system.

Here it is also impossible to overdo the materials, since the extra weight subsequently will lead to the hauling of the door loops. It is better to use a thin but high-quality vibration-hammer. With this task, the Vibroplast "Silver" with a thickness of 2 mm will be perfectly cope. As for the sound-absorber, you can apply all the same splang or a barrier with a thickness of 4-5 mm.

1.Demon door cards. Vibroplast is stacked through the door holes on a solid surface. If it has traces of anti-corrosion material, remove them using White Spirit.

2. Exercise and cut out the corresponding piece of vibroplast. Warming it with a hairdryer, remove the film, and we stick to the inner wall of the door. This process is quite uncomfortable, but you need to try to smooth out and pull the material to the gland.

3. Next step - laying the sound blower. Having made a pattern from Splanba, stick it over the vibroplast.

4. After this, we glue the entire door splen, closing the technological holes.

5. Purchase to doors cards. We glue them from the inside with a 10-mm Bitoplast. In addition, traction, locks of locks and other movable (potentially knocking and creaking) metal parts of the doors, tighten Madelin.

6.To these procedure are carried out with all doors.

7. Cobbing doors.

Noise insulation of the bottom and partitions of the engine compartment

This stage of work is the most difficult and taking place. For the bottom, the finest and heavy vibration hammer should be used. An ideal option here will be 4 mm bimash "bombs". For partition, it is better to use the "Silver" or "Gold" vibroplast. Splane (4-6 mm) is suitable as a soundproofing material.

1. Disabling and dismantle the instrument panel, seats, carpet. If the bottom from the inside is processed by an anti-corrosion, we remove it with the White spirit.

2. Emergency and cut out the most large pieces of bimaste. Warming them with a hairdryer, put on the floor, trying not to miss a centimeter. If in the process of stacking remains gasy, we put them on top of bimash pieces, overlapping the edges of at least 30 mm. Special attention should be paid to the internal bends of the wheeled arches.

3. Then the hairy hairdryer has already laid coating, and press it with a roller or spatula.

4. In the same way, we glue and partition motor compartment From the cabin by vibroplast.

5. Measure and cut off Splang. We glue it over the vibropolotor.

6. Mount Torpedo and Salon.

7. When necessary, collecting the instrument panel, you can smoke individual elements of Madelin.

Roof insulation

For noise insulation of the roof, it is better to use a thin vibration hammer as, for example, vibroplast M1 or Silver. Here excess weight is absolutely nothing. For sound absorption, Splin is perfect with a thickness of 4 mm, which is additionally and a good heat insulator.

Processing procedure is similar.

1. Consider the trim.

2. Just the factory noise insulation.

3. Watery the surface of the White Spirit.

4. Want, cut out, warming the vibroplast.

5. Apply it between rigidity ribs, press.

6.The most layer apply a sound absorber.

7. Remove the trim.

Noise insulation of the luggage compartment

The luggage of the trunk is carried out in two schemes: the trunk lid is processed in the same way as the hood, and part of the bottom, the inner surfaces of the arches and the rear wings - the same as the floor of the cabin.

Mandatory processing is subject to a niche for a spare wheel. Do not forget also about the inner surfaces of the rear arches - from them in the trunk there is the greatest number of noise.

For greater clarity, look a few rollers about how to dissemble the car.

The question of the organization of noise insulation sooner or later faces each owner of foreign cars or domestic auto. Unfortunately, after driving bad roadsNone of the brand of the machine will endure and after some time the metal and plastic parts of the "iron horse" will begin to break out, which is in the cabin motor vehicle And annoying noises arise, "crickets" and other rattles. Such an atmosphere creates a lot of unpleasant sensations for the driver, which must be extremely vivid on the road. In addition, listening to music in good quality under such an accompaniment is also pretty dubious pleasure. In order not to overpay for expensive services for specialized car dealerships and get rid of unpleasant noise, spending the minimum of funds, it is enough to figure out how to make the car noise insulation with your own hands. Video - Instructions There are many instructions on this matter, the most visual and interesting will be given in the article.

And now in order. First of all, we'll figure it out that it is noise insulation (or in Schumka commoner) and what materials are used for it.

Materials for noise insulation cars

Shumka consists of several components, each of which should be made of a certain material.

Vibration Isolation

Foreign sounds appear due to vibrations, whose oscillation frequency is 20 Hz and more. To avoid such a hum, you need to purchase a vibration insulating material that is manufactured on a rubber basis. It resembles liquid rubber and from above can be covered with a metallized coating. Vibration isolation is good "extinguishing" noise, and you can lay it as whole sheets and stripes through the same interval. Such materials are sold by sheets with dimensions of 0.5x0.7 m or 0.5x1.2 m. In stores you can meet the following stamps: vibroplast, bimash, vibroplast, isoplast, as well as less popular materials: STP Splin noise insulation and TEAC. Consider some of them:

• Self-adhesive noise insulation Vibroplast Silver with metallized coating. It is flexible and is a convenient material. Equipped with marking (squares 5x5 cm), due to which it is possible to uncover the sheets of the required size. Suitable for flooring of the floor, doors, roofs, hood and trunk. Does not require heating. It costs from 100 to 300 rubles.

• Bimast bombs with aluminum foil coating. To work with the material it must be heated to 40 - 50 degrees, which is not very convenient, but the bimaster is characterized by the highest efficiency compared to the analogues. Suitable for arches of wheels, speakers, tunnel, cardanian Vala and zones over the silencer. Costs from 480 rubles.

Useful! Most of all vibrations comes from a motor compartment, gender and wheeled arches. If you have a car audio set, you can make noise near the speakers, rear shelf or trunk lid. We can hear noise from the racks and the roof of the car, so you can hear the noise from the racks and the roofs, so in these places you can use a cheaper material.

The vibrating material is superimposed first, after it follows the noise insulation.

Noise insulation

The sound absorber is made of soft porous materials designed to absorb sound waves, which are coming outside. Most often, drivers acquire the material for the car's noise insulation of the following companies:

• Bitoplast 5. This material performs two functions at once - noise absorption and seal, thanks to which it is not necessary to buy an additionally anti-scrip. It eliminates the rattles and screens in the car. This material made of polyurethane foam with a protective anti-adhesive layer is manufactured. In addition, biplast retains its properties even at very low temperatures (up to -50 degrees). It costs about 360 rubles.

• Accent 10, performing only sound-absorbing function. This material made of polyurethane foam covered with a metallized film. Allows you to get rid of 90% of noise. Accent 10 is adapted to low temperatures (up to -40 degrees), as well as it is not deformed when heated to +100 degrees. Most often used to handle the hood cover, trunk and partitions of the engine compartment. It is also about 350-390 rubles.

Important! Do not confuse noise and sound absorbers with soundproof materials, as they are fundamentally different from each other with their properties and composition.

If possible, it is better to combine the shine of different composition. For example, one material can be glued on the outer panel of the car door, and the inner is different. When calculating the engine compartment or wheeled arches, different materials can be stacked right on each other. The fact is that various noise insulation hold different frequency ranges, so thanks to such tricks you will achieve a better result.

Another secret. As a noise absorber, you can use ordinary construction Materials. For example, noise insulation of Testsound. It is an order of magnitude cheaper and used for both homes or apartments and cars. Another such wagon is Gerlen (noise insulation).

There is also a liquid Shumka. It is most often used for outdoor work. Such materials like liquid noise insulation of the arches of the wheels has excellent anti-corrosion properties. The composition of this material may be aerosol or painted type (for applying with a brush or spatula). Mastic liquid noise insulation is resistant to reagents and other aggressive media.

Gasket material

Another stuff, about buying which should be thought, before making noise insulation with your own hands - this is a gasket (anti-graded) material. It is used to get rid of such noiseissued when contacting metal parts of the machine. Previously, its analogue served plasticine, foam rubber, and so on, in general, everything that can be found at home. Today there are specialized anti-scaffolds, for example, "Madelin". This decorative material on a tissue-based thickness of about 1-1.5 mm is equipped with a glue layer and a protective gasket with anti-adhesion properties. Most often Madeline is used to seal the gaps between the decorative parts of the cabin, the body of the car, air ducts, or in the dashboard. Costs about 750 rubles.

If you purchased a universal noise absorbing material, then it is not necessary to spend on the seal. Experts are still recommended to acquire all components separately. The fact is that if you buy a universal coating, then work it will take less, but the car will greatly add in weight.

Some motorists are "with experience" prefer to combine various compositions of materials. If you feel about their number, then be sure to consider that the number of one or another material directly depends on the selected technology of noise insulation (whether it is a two-or three-layer "sandwich").

If you have decided on what materials for noise insulation of the car do it yourself to purchase, it's time to go to the preparatory work.

Preparation for noise insulation

First of all, it is necessary to prepare the following tools (in addition to vibro, noise insulation and sealing):

• construction hairdryer (the usual home in this situation is not suitable);
• a roller roller (with him you are faster and high quality glove the material to the surfaces of the car);
• scissors;
• stationery knife (for piercing bubbles);
• the solvent or degreaser (they will need to handle the surface, and the usual "White Spirit" is suitable).

After that, make dismantling of all parts, free the area and clean the surface from dirt and dust. The room temperature during operation should be not lower than + 18 + 20 degrees. If all the conditions are observed, you can start styling Shumkov.

The first is superimposed by vibration insulation. If it involves thermal processing, then warm it with a construction hairdryer. When laying the vibra, it is not enough to attach it to the surface, it needs to be well done by roller in all available places Until those time until the foil texture disappears. If the material is poorly chopped, then over time it will begin to flap. Please note that the anti-corrosion properties of the vibration will only have if there are no bubbles under it, otherwise moisture will begin to accumulate in these places. Therefore, use the stationery knife, carefully spinning them. In the joints of the joint, the vibration insulation is better glued to join. The vibra is not necessary to apply whole pieces.

But the Shumkov is better to impose as large as possible slices and in no case cut it on the strips, it will reduce the effect of noise insulation to almost zero. In addition, individual small pieces are simply dismissed over time. It is best to draw on a roll with a shine of a kind of pattern in the sizes of the surface to which you are going to glue it. After that, cut the template and, slowly pulling off the protective film from it, begin to sequentially glue the material. So, step by step you can maximally fix noise insulation. There should be no bubbles in this case, so it's good to walk on the material. If you are still glue insulation with pieces, then be sure to follow each piece firmly adjacent to the neighboring, without leaving no lasers.

When working with the seal, there are no special subtleties, the main thing is to ensure that the material does not stick out the material on the ends.

Now consider much most often noise insulation.

Noise insulation hood

With noise insulation, the hood cover is worth considering its weight, as if you drown this item too much, then the shock absorbers will sweep soon. Therefore, it is better to use a light vibra for this area, for example, Vibroplast Silver. It is also worth considering that noise insulation of the hood itself is not done to get rid of the noise published by the engine. In fact, it is necessary for its insulation. As a heater, you can choose focus 10, which will retain heat and will not change its properties from high temperatures.

Important! The factory thermal insulation does not need to be thrown out, since the new cannot be its full replacement.

Some cars are not equipped with factory shock hood, in this case use the fattest material from possible.

Noise insulation doors

When processing doors, it is also worth considering the weight of the materials if they are too heavy, then you risk riding a loop. Therefore, it is important to understand why you need noise insulation in these areas. If you want to improve the sound, then " small blood"Do not do and have to glue at least 4 layers of Shumkov. For more "modest" requests, only vibra will be enough, which is applied to the inside of the door opposite the speakers. It is also worth noting that than metal thinner, the more material you need.

Before working the door, you need to disassemble, remove the skin and process the solvent surface. In the heat of work, do not forget to leave a free space for cables, thrust and other wires located in the door.

First of all, it is necessary to process the inner part of the doors with vibration insulation, for this you can use the Vibroplast Silver. In places behind the speakers will suit Bimast Bomb. The second layer is a shine thick about 4-8 mm. After that, outer insulation is performed. The material is glued under the door cards, after which they are glued by the anti-scrip.

Attention! The video contains elements of abnormative vocabulary.

Noise insulation of wheeled arches and trunk

Niche for spare parts should be fully attached to the vibro, the same applies to the plastic trunk plating.

Noise insulation of the arches of the wheels with their own hands will save you from the noise of the roadway, especially in winter timeWhen a hips is used. To process the wheeled niches, you must first remove the standard reflements from the plastic (but not to throw them out), clean the parts from dirt and dust and process the free surface with the vibration insulator. The sneakers themselves can also be covered with material.

Attention! The video contains elements of abnormative vocabulary.

Roof insulation

If you want to get rid of the sounds of drumming on the roof of the rain, then definitely get the roof time of your car. Good noise insulation will also make rid of "crickets".

When processing the ceiling, take into account its weight if it is dried strongly, the controllability of the vehicle will noticeably deteriorate. Shumka for this area is worth choosing a thickness of no more than 8 mm. Each material is stacked one layer. Before work, calculate all the values \u200b\u200bto install the ceiling trim in your place without problems.

Floor insulation

In addition to the wheels, while driving on the road, the noise is also the floor of the car, and pebbles, knocking on the bottom, bring a lot of unpleasant sensations. For this area, it is better to use the highest quality materials, for example, bimash bombs (although it is a heavy vibration, but its characteristics are the best). The top layer is superimposed with a layer of a thickness of 4-8 mm.

Make sure that there are no joints between the sheets of the materials, and try to attach as much area as possible, it is best to just with one sheet. The same goes and noise insulation of the floor of the car.

After applying all the components, leave the car for 12 hours so that all adhesive bases "grab" well.

In custody

Of course, Shumkov can also be installed in a specialized cabin, such as Olympus cars noise insulation, but such services will cost it somehow. If you only sat down behind the wheel, then it is better to contact the specialists, but for the "experienced" motorists is a waste of money. In addition, although it is recommended to be noise insulation immediately on all cars, but in fact, even if you do everything in stages, it will not affect the noise level. If the car is noise insulation with your own hands, the video of which is recommended to look at work before starting work, does not scare you, then you can significantly save.

Every car enthusiast, acquiring a car, expects usable in addition to the convenience of use vehicle Also on relative comfort while moving. One of the components of comfort is.

Some automakers pay fairly attention to noise insulation, but this is usually firms engaged in status expensive cars. The manufacturers of the middle and budget segment are not particularly engaged in noise insulation of their cars in order not to increase the cost of production. The assurances of such manufacturers about the complex noise insulation of the car should not be particularly believed. Of course, they spend noise insulating machining, but more often it concerns the cabin only. That is, this processing is made with a floor of the cabin, doors, less often ceiling. Can still additionally get the processing of the hood, gender and trunk lids, and not always. This is not speaking about the quality of the material used, it often leaves much to be desired.

Why need noise insulation arches

Rarely when the arches of the wheel occurs on the budget car. But they are the practical largest source of noise. The wheels and the case are thrown into the arches of the pebbles and crushed stone, the wheels themselves are added additional noise. Winter studded tires is very noisy, and untreated wheel arches Only this noise is enhanced.

The increased noise of the wheeled arches is further dependent on the body of the car. If you take a sedan, the arches of the front wheels are at the level of the hood, and the rear - at the level of the luggage compartment. If the booming space and the rear wall of it, bordering the salon, as well as the baggage compartment are processed in terms of noise insulation, then the sound coming out from under the wheeled arches they muffle.

Worse, the case is with the hatchbacks. No matter how processed the front of the car, the arches of the rear wheels in the car with such a body are located in the cabin, so noise from the wheels in the hatchback is stronger.

As a result, the problem of increased noise entering the salon from under the wheeled arches has to be solved by the car owner itself. Here, as always, the solution options are two - to remove the car to a hundred, performing work on car noise insulation, while laying out a good amount for the performance of work. Or, having studied the sequence of work while spending the necessary materials by preparing the required tool and equipping, allocating time for work, make the processing of wheeled arches.

It should be noted that now the arches of the wheels on both sides are insulation: the internal side of the engine, the luggage compartment or the cabin, and the outer-wheel side. If internal processing is known for a long time, then the external only recently appeared, but it is considered rather effective.

Materials and tools

• Sheets of vibration insulation;
• Noise insulation sheets;
• Scissors and construction knife;
• Measuring tool (roulette);
• Set of keys and screwdrivers;
• Hairdryer (preferably construction);
• Small building roller;
• Winds;

Before purchasing noise and vibration insulation materials, it should be determined at least approximately, the area on which the material will be applied. It should be taken into account where the processing will be made - with the inner, with an external or on both sides of the Arch. Also, the degree of vibration and noise insulation depends on the thickness of the material layers. But do not overdo it in this matter. Strongly thick layers of material in the future may interfere with the installation hinged equipmentwhich is attached to the arches or near them, and can also significantly reduce the distance between the wheel and the arch. The optimal is the layers with a thickness of 3-5 mm. This also applies to vibro and noise insulation.

Video: Citroen C4 rear arches noise insulation

First we describe the sequence of work on applying insulation on the inside of the arch. First of all, you need to release access to them to the maximum, dismantling all the elements that may interfere.

Then the surface of the arch from dust, you can even wash, and after witch dry or dry the hairdryer. Next, you need to make a preliminary pattern from the vibration insulating material. To facilitate it, you can first make molds from paper, and then cut on it. The same milestone will then come in handy for the pattern of the noise insulating layer.

Now vibration and noise-insulating materials go with a self-adhesive surface, so that the layers will not be difficult. The only difficulty can be vibration insulation on a bitumen basis. Its when gluing will need to warm the hair dryer.

When gluing a sheet should not be applied to the entire surface, and it is gradually made from one edge to another, moving the applied with a roller layer.

If there are complex sections, you can cut the material with slices and glue their jack. After the sickness of the whole area, it will need to be driven once again with a roller. It is important to achieve the lack of emptiness under the applied layer, otherwise condensate is formed there, which will lead to the emergence of corrosion focus.

Inner noise insulation arches from the cabin

After applying the vibration insulating layer, a noise insulating layer is applied over it. It is also applied gradually and rolling with roller. After applying, no work on the protection of the top layer is not made. Next, it remains only to install the removed items.

Noise insulation Arches of wheels from the outside

Video: Lada Granta - noise insulation of the front arches

Noise insulation arches of wheels with outside Very similar, but there are some nuances. It should be borne in mind that vibration and noise insulation is applied not only to the surface of the hider, but also on the wing itself from the inside.

First you need to prepare the surface. To do this, removed from the auto wheel, the locker is dismantled - plastic protection arches. After the surface of the arch, the locker needs to be carefully cleaned. If there is a factory defense on the arch or anticorrosive processing, It must be removed.

The first is applied with vibrosla, and be sure to use only material on a bitumen basis. Since the material on the arch from the outside is not very convenient, it is better to do it with pieces. At the same time, the joints of the joints need to be well to miss with a renurbiar mastic. Next, the entire surface should be treated with this mastic, and it is desirable in two layers.

Wheel insulation wheel arches from the outside

On the arches of the rear wheels, it is preferable to plant the reinforcement mastic on the vesiburous mastic applied into one layer. After the surface with the applied layer, twice is treated with mastic.

The noise insulating layer is glued to locker. Glue it carefully, moving the roller. Next, it is put in place and fixes. This works completed.

In the Slave Auto, the locker is not provided, therefore the gluing of the insulation layers is not advisable there, since they will not last long, and even after damage can be ensured by the appearance of corrosion focus. The output is to apply special vibration insulating bitumen mastic on the surface of the arch with the subsequent drying. At specialized service hours, this operation is produced by spraying the material to the surface. In the garage conditions, it is possible to do it with rollers, it is only important not to leave places without covering.

Car Noise Isolation: Start

The easiest way to do this is to come to a reliable car service and entrust all the work by professionals - the success of the work on noise isolation in this case is guaranteed. But, first, for high-quality work will have to pay good money, so it would be easier to buy a high-end car. And, secondly, a real motorist, a lover of big toys, for whom to dig in his car in attempts to improve its characteristics is a great pleasure, it may well make noise insulation with your own hands. Like many other works on tuning cars.

Noise insulation with your own hands what materials are required

True, it is worth it to immediately note that the acoustic tuning (it is also called noise insulation) requires marginal accuracy, at least the superficial knowledge of acoustics, skillful hands and the presence of special high-quality soundproof materials. Of course, traditional and special tools will be required.

To perform high-quality work on noise insulation, you must first determine the objectives. Maybe the car enthusiast wants music in the cabin to sound no worse than at home or at a concert in Philharmonic, it wants to completely drive out of the salon from the salon, finally create the most comfortable acoustic conditions. And only then you can start purchasing tools and materials.

When going to perform acoustic tuning, you need to evaluate your own financial capabilities. If the budget is limited, it is better not to wake up on the noise insulation of the entire car immediately, but to start performing it in parts. Thus, you can gain experience in its absence, fill cones and generally learn the implementation of these complex works. That is, you first need to perform, say, isolation of the doors of the car, at the end of the work of tuning the trunk, proceed to work with the floor and so on.

What you need to work

To perform Shumkov, there will be special tools calculated for this purpose. In principle, you can do without them, but the use of these tools guarantees ease of work and achievement good results with less time and strength.

From the tools may be needed:

• construction hairdryer - home hair dryer for drying hair, even if the most expensive, for this purpose is definitely not suitable;
• a roller roller - buying this tool does not require big investments, but this thing is quite useful;
• special scissors that you will cut the material;
• the solvent like White Spirit - you will degrease them the surface before sticking the soundproof material.

Noise-insulating materials

Special materials are used to perform noise insulation. Each of them is designed to perform certain types of work, and it depends on unique properties each of them.

Vibroplast. This is a modern polymer composition, which has an aluminum foil in its composition. Vibroplast - self-adhesive material, has a markup to squares with a side of 5 cm, which allows you to comfortably cover a solid plate into pieces of the desired value. It is used to absorb vibrations, it can to some extent to serve as a sealant, has good anti-corrosion properties, immune to moisture, is not amenable to the decomposing influence of adverse environmental factors, including biological genesis. Used to effectively absorb vibrations in the field of floor, roof, salon doors, body sidewall, trunk covers and hood. Extremely attracts tuning lovers and the possibility without any problems to lay insulation on the surface, having even a very difficult relief. Two brands of vibroplast - Silvere Gold are known. Their properties are identical, but Golds, and therefore, has the best vibration insulating properties.

Bimast Bomb - Another high-quality material that serves to absorb vibrations. It is rightfully considered the best of all vibration insulators. This is an effective design consisting of several layers:

• aluminum foil - facial layer;
• bitumen composition;
• rubber composition;
• anti-adhesion film.

A characteristic feature of the use of the material is the need for its heating to fifty degrees during installation. Its efficiency is very high, and this material is used for efficient sound insulation of the tunnel, zones over the silencer and cardan shaft, Wheel Arches and Front Shield.

Splane - This is an already soundproofing material having a layer of glue. Additionally, the material can be used as a good heat insulator. It is easy to mount on the surface of the vertical and non-standard configuration, it is hydrophoben and is not subjected to a destructive effect of aggressive media. Split temperatures in which you can exploit Splage is quite wide. SPLEN materials are known with marking 3002, 3004 and 3008. Splane 3004 is glued to the vibration insulator by the second layer. With this material, wheel arches, sidewalls and doors are treated.

In order for the adhesion to be the most complete, the surface before the salary should be carefully cleaned and degreased using acetone or white spirit. It should be borne in mind that Splane 3004 should not stick at temperatures below +10, since the adhesion abilities of the material are greatly deteriorating. You need to stick the ribbon without tension, and the protective layer needs to be deleted directly before installation.

Bitoplast - An excellent seal, additionally quite effectively eliminating the screenshots and dresses. It is performed on the basis of polyurethane and has a sticky layer protected by a special gasket that impedes random gluing. The material does not smell, differs in durability, not afraid of water and does not decompose. Its properties are fully saved even at very low temperatures, up to -50 degrees. When installing, it is necessary to exercise accuracy, since the sticky layer has powerful adhesive properties, and with a random connection of the adhesive layer of ribbon with each other it sinters tightly.

There is a lot of other materials used in conducting acoustic tuning on the market. The choice depends on the specific conditions of operation and goals that the motorist pursues when performing noise insulation.

How to make noise insulation hood and hood lid

The hood noise insulation work does not guarantee full deliverance from the noise of the engine, although the level of vibrations and, accordingly, noise, and the engine insulation in the cold season is significantly reduced as a result of work. To perform work, a soundproofing material of the type "focus" with a thickness of 10 mm and "vibroplast" Silver brand, having a low weight.

If there is a factory "Shumka" in the procession space, then it is worth throwing it out, since our work should be only the help of the factory, but not a replacement. Some models of budget vehicles do not have factory noise insulation. In this case, work on acoustic tuning is a practically vast necessity.

Noise insulation doors

Noise insulation of doors produce to efficiently get rid of the noise of the roadway, that is, external influence. After performing work, acoustic comfort in the cabin is significantly increased, the music begins to sound much better.

When providing only the minimum protection itself, only a layer of vibration insulation is required, for example, for example, the "vibroplast" grades of Golduli Silver. The material is pasted on the inner side of the door opposite the column. The area of \u200b\u200bthe coating material should be more possibly - it is achieved best result. If the metal doors are thin, then the vibroplast layer should be increased. It only needs to be borne in mind that excessive severity of the insulator on the doors can sooner or later lead to loosening door loops, so the approach to noise insulation of the doors should be reasonable.

If the minimum sound insulation is not enough to achieve emphasis, for example, to implement the highest quality sound of a good audio system, then work is significantly complicated. In this case, isolation in four layers. The first is placed on the inner surface, using specially left holes for this purpose. Used Vibroplast Silver. Next (on top of the vibrationproofer) you need to put Splane.

The next layer is pasting outside (under the door cards) vibroplast and splen. In this case, the technological holes are stuck. Thus, the sealing of the inner space of the door is achieved, in which the speaker plays, and as a result, the quality of the playable audio system is significantly improved. As mentioned above, it is primarily necessary to lovers of high-quality car audio.

And the latter in noise insulation of doors - processing door cards in order to prevent the formation of creaks and generally extra extraneous sounds. To do this, it is best to use Bitoplast. Handles and traction can be additionally saved by Madelin - the material of the "AntiSprip" type. This is done to avoid penetration into the salon unpleasant "curtains" from the door itself.

The noise insulation of the rear and front doors is almost the same, only the number of layers of material on rear doors It can be reduced - if they do not have the set speakers or the quality of the sound of music in the back of the cabin can be considered more loyal.

Ceiling and roof insulation

Noise insulation of the roof is performed to reduce noise outside. Mainly, this is noise from the rain. After performing work in the cabin, even during a strong rain will be maintained silence, and from large droplets falling onto the roof, it will only be a heavily weakened sound in the elephant, which will no longer deliver discomfort. Used when performing noise insulation ceiling vibroplast any brand. Additionally, it is possible to use Splamen, but you need to consider the weight of the material - the excessive weighting of the roof will cause an increase in the center of gravity, which cannot but affect the comfort in driving a car.

Floor insulation

Through the floor of the car, the "traditional" noises penetrate into the salon, which cause small pebbles falling in the bottom, always present on the road surface. Noise from the road canvase itself is heard. To eliminate these extraneous ghosts, floor insulation is carried out. First, Bimast bombs are laid, and from above - Splin for the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe floor without the formation of gaps. It is especially important to pay attention to the places of the wheeled arches - from the inside of the cabin. In these places you need to stick two or three layers of a simpler material or use the Gold vibroplast in two layers for greater vibration insulation. Best Material For this - Bimast Bombe.

Trunk, Wheel Niche and Arches

The trunk or the fifth door in the hatchback body is very important to isolate, because extraneous noise and squeaks in the luggage compartment are not less than in other places of the car. Niche in which a spare wheel is placed, it is necessary to completely wake with vibration insulation, and the plating - bitoplast.

Noise insulation of wheeled arches are performed in order to ensure more high level Comfort while finding a car in the cabin. Competent performance guarantees the absence of an annoying noise that produces the wheels of the machine, as well as spikes on winter rubber And the canvas road. To this end, you first need to remove plastic liners (not to throw out!). After that, the vibratinglast is pasted on the purified surface of the inside of the arch. It is further desirable to handle the niche anti-gravity, which also increases the level of noise insulation.

With the right execution of all the work, no noise from the beams of pebbles about the niche will not hear.

See also the video on the topic of car noise insulation:

Dear readers, in this article consider an interesting question, who worrying every second driver is noise insulation of the car with your own hands.

I dare to say that in every car after some time there are different noise, maybe it is related to the critical perception of foreign noise, with an addiction to the car. And this is mostly true, over time, plastic sheathing parts dry out, standard meager noise insulation of budget car bodies.

But what noise is not related to, the desire arises to eliminate and even thoroughly reduce, and the right path to that complete noise isolation.

Turning to the specialists, you need to be prepared that this work will cost in a round sum, silence will cost from 25 to 50 thousand rubles, depending on the scope of work.

And if your hands grow out of the right place and there is a desire to make your iron friend to quiet like Bentley, the car's noise isolation with your own hands you will be under power.

For this, of course, theoretical preparation is needed, which will be in this article, and certain knowledge in the practical embodiment of this work.

Let's figure out the noise in order.

So that the car's noise isolation was correct and efficient, we will try to understand where noises come from.

Body vibration. When the car moves, the vibration is transmitted from the operating engine and from the road through the car suspension. And since the body of the car, it is roughly speaking, a large tin can, which collects all these vibrations and converts them into a variety of sounds.

The external flow of air through which the car is cut through. If neither twist, and the car body, although it is done as aerodynamic as possible, is still a sail. And the noise of the passing air flow has a very high level.

Wheels Serious noise source. Rubber, or rather, to say its protector, when moving is constantly hitting the road. These millions of micro shocks create a constant hum that increases with increasing speed. If the tires are spinning, then noise is more. Noise from wheels are transmitted mainly through the wheeled arches.

I never use studded tires and believe that they are only one harm and car and roads.

Noise insulation elements

Noise insulation of the car with your own hands is a major goal - it is to make it comfortable as the most luxury car and naturally save extra 50 thousand rubles.

We divide our body on the elements, is insulating who will achieve the perfect effect, believe the noise insulation rolls.

Noise insulation of the roof of a car

The main element giving a lot of noise. Noise occur from a large resonant level surface, external wind and other street noises.

Noise insulation of the floor of the car

The most vulnerable element that perceives numerous minor items, sand, gravel, hum of rubber. Resonates with the road, accepts suspension strikes, 2-3 layers of noise insulation will drop it by 95%.

Noise insulation hood

The first element accepting and transmitting the main vibration from the engine to the body. Correct noise insulation will allow you to block vibration, makes a quiet engine operation, minimizes the noise penetrating from the boost space.

Perhaps the lion's share of street noise enters the salon from doorways. Here you need the maximum number of layers of noise insulating material. The noise insulation of the doors of the car presents even additional difficulty, in the fact that they are located acoustic systems that require a special approach for high-quality sound.

Noise isolation of the trunk

Although the trunk brings not so much noise to the salon, it should not be ignored by its noise insulation. From him, too, there is a lot of street buzz, plus he catches and conveys the roar exhaust pipe. Vibroty and noise-eyed layers for the trunk will not be superfluous.

Noise insulation of wheeled arches

Important and mandatory area for noise insulation. Automakers are often ignored by sound insulation of this element. Meanwhile, the wheeled arches are one of the main supplier of low-frequency sounds. Sticks of pebbles from the road, sand, beating about the bottom, noise of rubber, etc. In addition, the arches are most susceptible to corrosion, wear the surface of the fearspace, plastic rotting. Therefore, in addition to sound insulation, the arch should be protected from these harmful effects.

Torpedo - front panel of the car. It is not always solid, so over time this element becomes a source of creak in the cabin. The plastic is noisy from which the panel is made, and its elements in the connection places. Noise insulation Torpedo will remove all squeak problems.

Applied materials and their properties

STP vibroplastSilver

Vibropolotel. On self-tier, with foil. When sticker, heated is not necessary. Anticorrosion properties, does not rot, sealant. Silver thickness is 2 mm., Made with marking in squares 5 cm., For cutting when mounting. Weight 3 kg / m2.

Application: noise insulation doors, roofs, trunk, hood, floor.

STP vibroplastGOLD.

Gold properties are the same as Silver, only it is a little thicker, and of course absorbs vibration more. Weight 4 kg / m2. Thickness 2.3 mm.

Vibration Isolation STP BIMAST BOMB

The best vibrating unit. Sandwich from bitumen and rubber composition, foil. Requires heating to 50 degrees when mounting. High efficiency Vibrarity. Weight 6 kg / m2. Thickness 4.2 mm. It is considered ideal with audio training.

Application: noise insulation of tunnels, arches, silencer zones and a cardan shaft.

STP Splane 3004.

Noise insulating. Self-adhesive. Good heat isolator, not hygroscopic and does not rot. Work from -40 to +70 degrees. Thickness 4 mm. Weight 042 kg / m2.

This material for the second layer is glued on the vibration material at a temperature of from 18 to 35 degrees, on a degreasing surface.

Application: Shield front, tunnels, arches, doors,

Noise reduction and seal. Antioskrip. The base is polyurethane, self-keeper. Water vehicles are not subject to rotting, heat isolator. Frost saves its properties. Thick 5 mm. Weight 0.4 kg / m2. Biplast 10 - 10 mm.

Audioral. Elastic polyurethane foam, self-tech. Heat insulator. A good frequency range, absorbs up to 90% noise. Passing.10 mm. 0.5 kg / m2. Works from -40 to +100 degrees C.

It is used for sound insulation of the hood, in the engine compartment.

Thick 1-1.5 mm. Fissure base, self-keys. Sealer.

Applies a gap between different elements of the body, instrument panels, air ducts.

This is not a complete list of materials used for vibration and sound insulation. It is possible to apply any, with similar characteristics, for example, there is a vibration-insulating "Vicar" thickness. 1.5 mm. and noise insulating "Shumoff" 4 mm.

The main stages of noise insulation

What instruments are used for work, if it is decided that the noise insulation of the car does it all still be implemented?

• Room hairdryer (just construction, with high temperatures heating);
• order roller (for good contact with the body surface);
• scissors (preferably more powerful);
• the stationery knife (for the output of air from bubbles under the material);
• fluid-degreaser (solvent, acetone, white spirit).

Prepare a tool, dismantily dismantily dismantle all the elements of the trim, clean from dirt and dust. The more remove the details of the interior of the cabin, the better and will be able to cry for vibration insulation, and the better will be your noise insulation.

The first layer is sticking vibration insulation. If the material requires heating, then of course grate it to the desired temperature (40 -50 gr. Bimast Bomb) And stick. If the material is self-adhesive, then heating the surface as required by the corresponding material (18 - 35 gr. Silver, Splang).

Then we ride well the goat. Return high quality until the foil texture disappears. The material must be well chopped, there should be no air bubbles under the material, otherwise corrosion may form and the material can be formed. The vibra in the connection places is better glued to join.

But the noise-insulating sheets is better glued with large pieces, otherwise there will be no effect. It is better to glue in advance outdated templates.

Vibration insulation of the roof of the car

After the entire skin is removed from the cabin of your car, carefully degrease the surface, reveal the sheets of vibration insulation, and proceed to the sticker, be sure to press the roller and make sure that there are no air bubbles under the glued material.

After laying the vibration insulation layer, on top of gluing noise insulation from the proposed materials - Splane, biplast, accent.

Noise insulation of the car with your own hands. Floor

What to say there, you will have to work hard to free the interior of the car from all too much and first of all you need to tinker with the floor. But it is necessary to remove everything, and to doll down and wear out what remained from the factory "noise insulation." Clean wash and degrease.

Then, like a roof, we combine the vibrationant - Silver BIMAST BOMB,Vibroplast GOLD.

Then we apply a layer of a noise insulating layer of material Accent or Biplast.

The next step will be the application of another layer of the noise absorbing layer. STP Splane 3004.

Noise insulation hood

The hood we will sound in two layers in those places where metal the main plane of the hood is opened between the ribs of stiffness. That is, open openings, which resonate, creating additional noise.

We use any of the proposed vibrational materials, 2 -3 mm thick. And over it is noise insulating, for example, focus 10, 10 mm thick.

Then glue and press the vibrational material

And the next step on top of the vibration material we stick noise insulating material. Focus 10 or any other, with the same characteristic.

The most difficult thing in the noise insulation of the body is work with the doors. The limited space due to the design of the doors, regardless of the brands of cars, does not allow large pieces of glue vibration and noise insulation.

It is necessary to stick the material in small pieces, in order to close all the noise-producing sections of the iron.

Noise insulation of the doors of the car, in addition, is still the fact that the material is desirable to use lightweight or with less thickness. It is dictated by the fact that the door is still in permanent work and overload it hinged joints Not recommended. And so there is enough heavy elements in it (windows, glasses, acoustic systems).

Purchase doors according to the following scheme:

Material use any available, but strictly first glue vibro, then noise insulation.

In the pictures of the step-by-step process:

Noise isolation of the trunk

The trunk is coated in two layers - vibro and shine.

The door of the trunk, glue as the hood. Everything is simple:

Noise insulation Arch of car do it yourself

Noise isolation of the archer of the car with your own hands is made quite simple. According to the standard scheme, you can do as all previous elements.

We remove the plastic sneakers, if they are, clean-moom-degrease, sample from the outside (from the pervaling to the body) with a vibration of 3 mm. The arch of the body itself is also clean-degreased and sample with a vibrational 4 mm thick. The nochifsakers in the arches are not used, because the effect of them will not be here, they work in a high frequency range, the arches are devoured low frequencies. And in the conditions of the street, they will do moisture.

Noise Isolation Front Panel (Torpedo)

The very thing is probably difficult in all the work on the noise of the car, this is the removal of the front panel.

Not everyone is decided to do this without knowing where to start and how not to accumulate when assembling the finished panel. Heaps of wire connections and the unknown of the order of disassembly, cunning clips are stopped many, and it is justified.

But still those that decided to make noise insulation for all a hundred, having some experience of car disassembly, it will be going and good luck will smile.

Cover biplast 5 or similar noise insulator under the instrument space:

On the disconnected torpedo, we glue all possible cavities with a vibration insulator in 2-3 mm., Then we sink a biplast 5 noise insulator.

All major areas are insulated. Now it remains carefully and properly assemble the interior and enjoy silence! AND

Up to the emergence of the blog!