We carry out the electronic ignition circuit on the UAZ. Electrical equipment of cars UAZ. Ignition electronic ignition on UAZ Buanka

- sensor distributor;

- transistor switch;

- ignition coil;

- adding resistance;

- emergency vibrator;

- spark plug.

Sensor distributor

The distributor sensor has a housing, a cover, roller, a sinusoidal voltage sensor, centrifugal and vacuum regulators, as well as an octane corrector. The centrifugal controller automatically changes the ignition advance angle depending on the rotational speed.

The voltage sensor consists of a rotor and a stator. The rotor is a ring permanent magnet With tightly pressed to it from above and below four-pole rockets, rigidly fixed on the sleeve. In the top of the rotor on the sleeve installed the slider.

The sensor stator is a winding concluded in four-pole plates. The stator has an isolated stranded output attached to the output of the sensor. The second output of the winding is electrically connected to the case in the collected distributor.

A label is applied on the rotor, on the stator arrow, which serve to set the initial moment of sparking.

Resistance of windings at a temperature (25 ± 10) ° C, Ohm:

primary ..... 0,43.

secondary ..... 13 000-13 400

Developed secondary voltage maximum, in ..... 30 000

The coil has a high voltage output and two low voltage outputs:

- output to - for a compound with an output to additional resistance;

- Non-marked withdrawal - with the conclusion of the switch of the switch.

The value of the active resistance between the conclusions of "+" and "C" (0.71 ± 0.05), between the conclusions "C" and "K" - (0.52 ± 0.05) Ohm.

Consists of a housing and boards with radio elements. Switch conclusions are intended:

- output D - for connecting to low-voltage output of the sensor-distributor;

- the conclusion of the KZ - to connect to the output of the ignition coil;

- The output "+" - to connect with the output "+" of the addition resistance or fuse block.

It consists of a housing and boards on which all vibrator nodes are mounted. It has one conclusion. Including it in operation is allowed only if the transistor switch or the coil of the sensor stator is fail.

Maintenance

After 8,000 km

Check the liner of the low-voltage distributor sensor connector, fastening the connecting wires.

After 16,000 km

Check the ignition distributor: inspect the slider, the distributor cover and, in the case of their contamination, wipe the X / B with a cloth moistened in pure gasoline.

Lubricate from the dropper (4-5 drops) the rotor sleeve (you first remove the slider and the filter under it).

After 50,000 km

Thoroughly rinse the pure gasoline ball bearings of the stator's support, label lithol-24 lubrication into it no more than 2/3 of the free volume of the bearing (you first remove the lid, the slider, the rotor and the stator support).

Ignition Moment Setup

1. Install the piston of the first cylinder in the upper dead point of the compression tact in the first cylinder to the coincidence of the M3 hole (5 ° to the NTT) on the crankshaft pulley with the pin on the camshaft cap.

2. Remove the plastic lid from the distributor sensor. Ensure that the electrode runner was installed against the output on the sensor-sensor cap marked with a digit "1" (output for the ignition wire of the cylinder of the first cylinder engine).

3. Tighten the coarse-corrector plate inserted into it inserted into it to the drive enclosure so that the pointer coincides with the average division of the Octane Corrector.

4. Loosen the fastening bolt of the Octane-corrector plate to the dispenser's sensor housing.

5. Holding the runner against its rotation with the finger (to eliminate the gaps in the drive), carefully turn the housing to align in one line of the red mark on the rotor and the island of the petal on the stator. Fasten the octane-corrector plate with a bolt on the dispenser's sensor housing.

6. Install the distributor sensor cover, check the installation of the ignition wires to the candles in accordance with the order of engine cylinders 1-2-4-3, counting counterclockwise.

After each ignition installation, check the accuracy of installing the ignition torque, listening to the engine operation when the car is moving.

To do this, warm the engine to a temperature of 80 ° C and, moving in direct transmission by roven road at a speed of 40 km / h, give a car overclocking, dramatically clicking on the drive pedal throttle valve. If there will be a slight short-term detonation to a speed of 55-60 km / h, then setting the moment of ignition is made correctly.

With a strong detonation, turn the dispenser sensor housing (Fig. 7.24) on the OCTAN-corrector scale by 0.5-1.0 division counterclockwise. Each division of the scale corresponds to a change in the moment of ignition by 4 °, counting on the crankshaft. With the complete absence of detonation, it is necessary to increase the ignition advance angle by turning the sensor housing of the distributor clockwise.

Any ignition system is non-contact mainly differs only by the manufacturer and has the following constructive features - This is a sensor-distributor or simply rubber, candles and a ignition coil, a resistor (responsible for resistance), an emergency vibrator and switch.

The rubber has a simple device consisting of a housing, covers (usually plastic), 2 regulators, roller and voltage sensor, as well as a corrector. The voltage sensor has a rotor and stator. They have special labels to set the initial ignition (primary).

The ignition coil has a primary winding resistance of 0.43 Ohm and the secondary 13000-13400 ohms, at a temperature of about 25. The maximum voltage up to 30000 V on the secondary winding.
Transistor switch is simplest deviceconsisting of a housing with a fee, and the emergency vibrator has the same parts as the last, but it comes into operation when the switch fails.

Under what conditions do it

As a rule, the ignition needs maintenance as a malfunction is detected, but according to the regulations, it is recommended for running. 8000 km. Tighten the wiring nuts and fastening the wires of the wires. 16000 km. Inspection of the state visually, cleaning visible elements from contamination. Rotor sleeve lubrication. 50,000 km. Cleaning bearings and bookmark new lubricant, cleaning all parts from dirt, standing wiring contacts.

How to set the desired ignition point.
1. The piston of the 1st cylinder must necessarily be in the upper dead point, it is achieved by scrolling camshaft, while the labels are followed, they must coincide.

2. Remove the plastic lid from the springboard and make sure the electrode coincides the slider with a notch on the lid. 3. The corrector plate is delayed with a bolt to the housing, the tightening is performed until the pointer will be in the middle of the marked scale. 4. The plate is weakened, with the help of its holding bolt. 5. Turning the trimmer body, and at the same time holding the slider, follow the marks on the rotor and the stator (they must match), after which the plate is again delayed. 6. Collect all in reverse order And check the car to accuracy the moment of ignition.

The engine is warmed up operating temperature (80-90 degrees), then choosing a smooth and straight line of the road, abrupt clicking On the gas pedal, overclocking the car. Hearing a minor detonation, we conclude that the adjustment is made correctly. With a significantly greater detonation or it is not at all, the following manipulations produce - turns the body clockwise in the absence and against, with a significant detonation.

The voltage sensor consists of a rotor and a stator. Fasten the octane-corrector plate with a bolt on the dispenser's sensor housing. 6. Install the distributor sensor cover, check the installation of the ignition wires to the candles in accordance with the order of engine cylinders 1-2-4-3, counting counterclockwise. After each ignition installation, check the accuracy of installing the ignition torque, listening to the engine operation when the car is moving.

Ignition system on UAZ 469

This mode is used if you start the engine starter. Ignition on UAZ have a simple design. Contactless ignition is more convenient to use than contact.

With anti-theft locking device, with a locking against re-enabled starter without prior to turn off the ignition and with a backlit of the socket. The blocking device against the starter re-enabled should not allow the key again from the position I (ignition) to position II (starter).

The engine operation is not possible without a correctly set point of ignition. Turn the housing of the traver until the average label on its enclosure is aligned with the engine label. For example, for the VAZ-2106 car, the switch can be installed in the free space between the washer tank and the left headlash. Drill 2 holes and screw the switch with screws. Proper installation The ignition advance angle in the contactless ignition system makes it possible to operate the car in a comfortable environment. Install crankshaft To a position that corresponds to the angle of a ignition ahead of 5 degrees. Check the order of connection high voltage wires Engine cylinders.

Underwater ignition UAZ Scheme

And you can go on, throw out the regular harness, the EPHX system and the variator's place under the hood to install the switch. The output of the additional resistance "to the starter relay" in some options, the wiring is connected to additional contacts on the ignition lock, and not to the starter relay. The coil is for the ignition contact system! An interesting addition to the ignition system with the ATE-2 Draver and the Hall sensor will be the switch 962.3734 complete with the detonation sensor (automatic octane corrector). The detonation sensor is connected to the 7th foot of the commutatra, which is usually not used. The point is that the eight range on the eight motor is "from the ass" engine and has a drive from camshaft.

A pair of linel sensors located under 90 degrees is placed in the bar. relative to each other. A plate "Butterfly" is put on the axle, it is at the movement in the Hall sensors alternately forms impulses. The trambler will be consolidated by any, the main thing that he approached the type of actuator and was good.

Recommendations for setting the traver Can I put a rubber from the Volga on the Operation of the Tambler with a Hall Sensor (article) How to isolate from the water of a rubber? Rework contactless ignition All electronic ignition by 31519 with a 3 L.1 engine redelled to contact. The regular electronic ignition distributor is replaced by the mechanical P 119-b; 2. The regular ignition coil is replaced by B-117 A; 3. The regular switch and the variator are simply removed; 4. If a contact system Ignition, it is possible to wear bearing in the ignition distributor or an incorrect gap between contacts. Turn the traver runner to the first cylinder to the first cylinder, and the middle label on the SV pulley (ZMZ 402) or the first pulley (UMP engines) opposite the Shortt. Designed for installation on Cars Gazelle and Volga with carburetor Engine ZMZ-4026.10 In return for a regular ignition system.

Step 4: Connecting wiring and installing a switch. Insert the injection into the rubber.

Manual for replacing a metal-pump drive

Turn off the ignition and dismantle the lid of the traver, tips and high-voltage cables are connected to it. Then from the distribution mechanism you need to turn off the wire connected to the switch. Taking a wrench to 13, unscrew the two nuts fixing the device and dismantle with power aggregate Mechanism with a oil pump drive.

What is a circuit of connecting electronic or contactless ignition, on UAZ 417, how to remake the contact ignition to contactless? Why is the coil warms and how to adjust and adjust the angle of ahead? Also contactless systems Equipped with an electromagnetic device, which makes it possible to achieve a more stable engine functioning. One of the main nuances in terms of service is the need for a periodic lubricant of the distributor drive - no less often than every 10 thousand km run. After that, from the distribution mechanism, remove the lid.

Whatever the rubber rose into the drive, it is necessary to achieve the coincidence of the protrusions on the coupling from the bottom of the traver with the slots on the drive roller. On the installed rubber, there should be no gap between the octane-corrector plate and the drive housing itself. The lid of the new trambling. To do this, unscrew the crossed screwdriver 2 screws. The slider should look at the engine shield. It is that the ATE-2 traver of the 1st cylinder number does not coincide with the numbering of the standard traver. It is put on a regular place without alteration. Hasha 4. Connecting the wiring and the installation of the commutator is complex. If a set from the VAZ-21074 is used, then no blocks will be 3 contacts.

The main components of the contact type system are the battery, shortcut, drive, candles, capacitor, as well as a breaker with a distributor. Contactless ignition system called transistor. Unlike the two systems described above, the electronic ignition system is characterized by a complex device, which ensures the performance of not only the moment, but also other parameters.

8000 km. Tighten the wiring nuts and fastening the wires of the wires. Rotor sleeve lubrication. 2. Remove the plastic lid from the springboard and make sure the electrode coincides the slider with a notch on the lid.

Ignition systems

Distributor Sensor (Draver)

Spark plug

Other Ignition System Questions

• R1 - 1K; R2 - 6,2K; R3 - 1.8K; R4 - 82; R5 - 10; R6 - 300; R7 - 47K; R8 - 3K; R9 and R13 - 2K; R10 - 0.1; R11 and R12 - 330; R14 - 10K; R15 - 22K.
• C1, C2, C6, C8 and C9 - 0.1MKF; C3, C5 and C7 - 2200PF; C10 and C11 - 1MKF.
• VT1 - KT863; VT2 - CT630B; VT3 - KT848A.
• VD1 - KS162B; VD2 - od522; VD3 - CD212; VD4 and VD5 - KD102.
• Chip KR1055HP1 or KS1055HP1.
• The VT1 transistor on parts of the switches is not installed.

I had the same thing on the usual ignition. The very first checking the candles, most likely some one flew out and the car simply Troit. Check out the alternate wires from the lid of the trambl. I found this way. Yes, and see what candles are standing, the best put A11.

The question is not as simple as it seems at first glance. Possible plenty of causes of this phenomenon. Unstable work The stroboscope itself first. The composition of the mixture (rich, poor), the presence of unstable contacts in electrical equipment (including in the ignition lock), the leakage of high voltage through poor insulation and dirty, wet surfaces. Application in electrical equipment of interference resistors and high-wired wires. If the contact system of the ignition is possible, it is possible to wear bearing in the ignition distributor or an incorrect gap between contacts. The list is not complete, look for and unite :-)

Yuzay him about 4 months - nothing has changed radically. A number of advantages were felt - the engine works smaller, but the fuel consumption did not change significantly (although I expected it). It is possible to seal the ignition system completely. Some special increase in traction did not notice. Perhaps this is the consequence of the fact that I also brought to mind to the mind - I chose the characteristic of the centrifugal regulator with springs. To my some surprise, the ASUD system does not choose the optimal ignition angle - the ignition sensor can be done before or later. Those. The procedure for placing an angle of detonation remains. In addition, I had to repair it almost immediately - there was a printed circuit board. Summarizing this way - this system allows you to pay the ignition system significantly less attention, increase its buoyancy in water. But do not wait for cardinal improvements.
Photos:
Block "Mikhailovsky ignition" ASU
Coils and sensor,
Two coils acuds
Sensor ASUD,
Block ASUD
Block and coils ASUD

Do I need an emergency vibrator
The emergency vibrator gives continuous sparking, regardless of the position of the pistons, as a result, the mixture flashes before the required torque, in detonation mode - the result is similar to continuous sledge hammer blows over the pistons with a frequency of 500 to 2000 times a minute in each cylinder. What do you think, what will be the result? The overhaul with the replacement of broken rings, molten pistons, burned valves, bent crankshafts, handled the walls of the cylinders.
Thinking over the question - why is such a dangerous thing in the car - I came to the conclusion that, perhaps, the emergency vibrator was set by the military so that the car after the nuclear explosion (when all the electronics arises, incl. Switch). I think that if it comes to the nuclear war, I will still be anyway - the car can continue the movement or can not.
If you want to increase the vitality of the car, then you have a better spare switch with you (and the spare stator of the traver - (y)).

I felt some "twitching". After the stop at the refueling could not get started. Another symptom - when the ignition is turned on, the voltage arrows immediately takes the fix. Position (when everything is fine, it is after a couple of seconds after that (the coil is charged?) Should still go to the right). Replacing the switch situation has not changed. Dipped notorious wiring in the rubble. An attempt to increase it led to the cliff of a piece. A spare track, naturally, no (it is necessary to carry with you the "stator" to the reserve). Shops do not work (Sunday, late evening). Recruited the emergency vibrator. About a hundred kilometers on it drove. The car fled 80-90, though it ran down when trying to accelerate sharply. Consumption - within reasonable limits. In the legs of the passenger, the whole road was distributed in the invigorating squeak.

Well just one in one! But with the emergency vibrator I was waiting for a bummer. I had a vibrator from the factory faulty. How far he flew away after I found out. And then a few hours with a cable in the hands. Now I drive a stator coil to a person ... Still, it is better to carry duplicates with you, it's more reliable.

Step 1. Preparation

General view of ATE2 set:

It is still necessary, in addition to the system itself, a set of a chauffery tool. At a minimum, you need: horn keys on 8, 10, cross screwdriver and "curve" starter (if a body elevator is made or not the ability to use the "curve" starter - you need something that you can turn the engine).

Step 2. Dismantling of the native distributor sensor (hereinafter - the traver) and the ignition coil

Before removing the native rubber, you must turn the engine to combine the tag on the "5o to NTC of the 1st Cylinder" with the pin on the block. Rotate the engine clockwise, we combine the labels and then remove the lid of the traver. If the slider is directed towards the cylinder block, then you can dismantle the native rubber. If not, the slider is directed to the opposite side of the block, you need to turn the engine for another turn. Now the slider looks at the engine.

To dismantle the rubber, remove the high-voltage wires and the hose of the vacuum controller and the key to 10 turn the fastening bolt of the octane-corrector plate to the drive housing and, shaking the rubber, take it out. In the event that there are not enough forms of hands, we get a slotted screwdriver from the bottom of the octane-corrector plate, and, leaning on the drive, shifting the rubber upward.

Then remove the regular ignition coil. We unscrew 2 nuts and remove the wires from the conclusions. The coil itself is screwed with 2 screws to the engine shield.

Step 3. Installing a new trambling and ignition coil.

Before installing a new rubber, you need to mount the octane-corrector plate on it. This plate has no fixed position on the housing of the traver. The location of the primary installation is a little left of the housing of the vacuum regulator, if you look at the rubber on top. Putting the plate on the housing, and putting it up with an approximate location, 10 tighten the nut on it. Thus, the plate crimps the housing as a clamp.

ATTENTION (!) - Do not make an excessive effort, this material is very fragile!

Finally, the position of the plate is selected already during the exhibition of the engine on the engine.

Now the rubber is ready to install on the engine. Whatever the rubber rose into the drive, it is necessary to achieve the coincidence of the protrusions on the coupling from the bottom of the traver with the slots on the drive roller. Position the rubber next to the drive and turning the coupling with a hand, achieve an exemplary protrusion with a slot on the roller.

ATTENTION (!) - The protrusions on the coupling coincide with the slot only in the same position, because The protrusions are shifted from the center line.

We insert the rubber into the drive and, turning it out of the side, to the side of the coincidence of the coupling with the drive roller. On the installed rubber, there should be no gap between the octane-corrector plate and the drive hull itself.

Remove the lid of the new traver. To do this, unscrew the crossed screwdriver 2 screws. The slider should look at the motor shield.

The fact is that at the ATE-2 traver, the numbering of the 1st cylinder does not coincide with the numbering of the standard traver. The conclusion of the 1st cylinder at the new traver is above the roof of the Hall sensor (on the cover there is a number "1" - this means a 1st cylinder). This is explained by the fact that the coupling of the ATE-2 traver is deployed to 180 °.

Then, turning the housing of the traver, we seek that the 1st cylinder connector on the lid coincided with the Runner's contact. In other words, the moment is igniting the mixture in the first cylinder. It will be the initial Woz. Naturally, it is impossible to ride it, but it is already possible to start the engine for adjustment. From the hands we wrap the fastening bolt of the octane-corrector plate to the drive housing.

Now install a new ignition coil. Put on a regular place without alterations.

Step 4. Connecting wiring and installing a switch

There is nothing complicated. If a set from the VAZ-21074 is used, then no blocks will be 3 contacts. Because In different schemes, these wires of different color, I will write their number. I think from left to right through the number of switch contact numbers (the location of the switch as on the 1st photo).

The wire from contact number 3 (colors is more often blue or blue with a red stripe) connects to the plus connector of the ignition coil. On the coil, this jack is more often indicated by the "+" or "b" sign, or "wat". To the same connector you need to connect the "+" from the regular coil.

Wire from contact number 5 (more often brown or black, this is the shortest "tail") connects to any "mass"

The wire from the last contact number 6 (more often brown with red or brown with blue) connects to the second connector on the ignition coil. It can be indicated as "K", "VK" or "RUP". On the same coil connector, the wire is connected from the EPHH control unit (if any).

2 The connecting pads are connected to the switch and the output of the Hall sensor on the rubble.

Insert the wires to the rubber. Connection order 1-2-4-3, ranging from the output of the 1st cylinder. It should work like this:

It remains to find the place to the switch, because the length of the wires does not allow it to put it on a regular place. If the machine does not participate in competitions, you can put the switch next to the fuse block. Quite reliable I. affordable place. I put the wires and secured the switch under the instrument panel in the legs of the front passenger.

It is also worth noting that not all digital tachometers that worked with a regular transistor-switter scheme can work with the hall sensor.

It remains only to adjust the uz and tighten the fastening bolt of the octane-corrector plate.

ATTACHMENT. Ignition scheme VAZ-21089

25 - ignition coil

23 - EPHH control unit

27 - Switch