Starter to start aircase engines. Manual Starter for Safe Launch Aviamode Loop Foods Homemade Electrical Starter for Avia Model Engine

This idea was not born by chance. The fact is that on my model sometimes on high turns of Gloh engine. Patience burst when the spring burst and eventually broke a hand starter lace ...

To begin with, I purchased a gearbox on the engine, which was replaced by an old manual starter ...

Well, directly electro Engine from the screwdriver

But then the problem (little space. We had to make a gearbox that would remove the engine from the gear from the gearbox on the courtyard. He began with the fact that the body was made for this gearbox.



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It may seem strange that so much gear, but I had to make such a "row", so that, as I said to remove the electric motor, due to the lack of space. And the spacer between the plates made from moisture-resistant plywood.


Well, finally the result

A little slaughter, so I decided to grind on the sandpaper)


As can be seen in the photo, a pin for engagement with a gearbox is installed on the drive shaft.


Now it's time to establish this miracle on the car. Long thought how to do it. And that's what I thought ...

And finally everyone assembled ...


Although the model was sick for 300 grams)) BUT BUT CAAAAK TO MOVE !!! And + best grip with expensive !!
And here is the video report:

In a very soon, I plan to connect all this to the 3rd channel. I will describe the details in the second part of the article ... In the meantime, I expect the arrival of the details necessary for the end of the project!

Good motorists! A light turn of the ignition key - and the starter, tugging the crankshaft, starts the engine. Of course, we do not call on modellers to install electric machines for micromotors. It will be about a stationary unit designed to substantially facilitate the launch of compression and gantile model engines. He will provide you with great help and in training, and at competitions where the engine start time is strictly limited.

The starter can be made from quite affordable materials and aggregates. The electric motor is a car or motor scooter starter, and you can use and already used. To turn on the engine, it is desirable to apply a start relay. The current source is the battery (6 or 12 V). There may be even an old battery, which is not able to run the engine by car; Our starter is not experiencing large loads.

Starter from the scooter and the corresponding battery will make it possible to make a less powerful, but more compact and easy start-up unit.

The starter is installed in the housing moving, on guides parallel to the shaft. In the extreme front position, the engine is kept in two springs. Run is carried out as follows. Taking the model with two hands, insert the KOK air screw into the rubber clutch of the starter output shaft and click on it. In this case, the starter moves, includes a start-up key, and the motor shaft begins to rotate, while turning the screw model. After starting, the starter returns to the starting position with the springs and it turns off.

This design is quite safe and excludes random injuries with an air screw, because at startup the model is held with two hands.

The starter must be modified - to remove the Bendix from his bed (overtaking clutch with a leading gear) and shorten the output shaft, so that it can be installed a rubber master clutch on it. The holes of the starter flange are used to install it on the guides, but short, about 10 mm long, sleeve are inserted into them to ensure the accuracy of moving. Steel studs serve steel studs, the diameter of which corresponds to the inner diameter of the sleeves. With grinding sandpaper, it is customized under the size of the holes of the sleeves, providing a moving landing. For fastening studs in the case on both of their ends, a carving is sliced. To avoid the starter's skew on the guides under the influence of weight, in the rear part it is installed an additional roller support.

1-rubber coupling under Kok screw, 2-plastic keypads, 3 - housing and sleeve coupling, 4 - handle, 5 - starter, 6 - roller support, 7 - Roller guide, 8 - Power Support, 9 - Switch, 10 - Rear Starter focus, 11 - starter guide, 12 - bracket for switch control, 13 - Starter installation hole sleeve, 14 - Spring, 15 - battery.

The installation housing is assembled on nails and glue from plywood 6 - 10 mm thick. A handle for transferring an aggregate can be made from a pipe cut or a round wooden bar. Top cover Cases - removable. The bottom of the box should also be removed - from it easier to replace or recharging rechargeable battery.

When selecting fittings, consider a significant current that consumes the starter (up to 50 A); Power contacts must be calculated on this load, otherwise they can be mounted at the first inclusion. The so-called mass turnouts are quite suitable for this purpose. If you get a switch with two pairs of contacts, they should be selected to facilitate their mode. The offset of the starter housing needed to turn it on must be no more than 10 mm.

Another way to start the starter is through a regular car relay. In this case, the switch itself can be significantly less. Cables applying to the starter must have a cross section of at least 6 mm 2.

The driving clutch consists of a rubber sleeve (with three longitudinal grooves on the outer surface, in which the swords are installed), a metal closure and a metal sleeve. These details are collected on the starter shaft sock, as shown in the drawings.

It happens that - you need to urgently start the car, and the battery sat! You have to deliver the "Wires for Cursting" and wait - and will not agree by your car passing by "Seek".

But, it's good if you are in the city! Then you can just remove the battery and charge it. And if the nearest housing of kilometers 30, and even on the street stands frost under -20?

In this case, such a device as a Jump Starter comes to the rescue.

On Aliexpress such devices of pond-prudes. That only in them is additionally not embedded - lanterns, chargers for smartphones and other bulbs, which rarely use. And the price of the device is growing exorbitant with each refinement.

But let's think about it - what really is needed to start the car?

Really - only a powerful battery and wire connecting an external battery to the existing one.

At the time of launching the starter, there is a strong load on the battery and it, according to the laws of physics, gives a stress drawdown, as a result of which the starter simply cannot turn the engine. Top consumption with a car factory about 200 amps. Often staff lead accumulator There is not enough power due to supercooling.

When connecting an external battery begins charging the standard automotive. It is enough for 10-15 minutes to ensure that chemical processes have begun and raised the density of electrolyte and increased power to start the motor. In addition, the external battery connected in parallel, also helps at the time of the starter, taking part of the load.

By the way, when starting by car with mechanical box - Be sure to learn the clutch! By this, you will reduce the load on the starter, as you do not have to turn the box to pass with viscous (because of cold weather) oil.

Look at the video below - there will be a car with an old battery (7 years of operation), which is frozen for 4 days of non-use of the car at a temperature of about -20 degrees.

The video is clearly seen - when trying to start the starter, the lead accommodation will learn a lead acc. Before the onboard electronics and clock are discharged at 00:00. Starter cannot turn the motor even once!

But a lipo battery from a radio-controlled model comes to the rescue (they have a large current-matt), with a connected Lipo car easily starts.

So it turns out that you can just buy only Lipo battery large tank and use it to start the car.

So, you need a powerful 4S Lipo battery, charger For it and wires for connecting.

Where to buy a set for homemade starter jump

Zop Power 14.8V 5500mAh
Buy: Banggood. HTRC H4AC 20W 2A
Buy: Banggood. 150mm XT60 Female Plug
Buy: Banggood.

Good luck on the roads!

Talk about the utility of a manual starter, I think you do not need. Running for the air screw motor, there is always a possibility of "getting" the blow of the screw blade on the fingers. To protect your fingers, you need to wear a glove, or a special attack, or wind on your fingers isolate, etc.

The manual starter does not allow to touch the air screw blades, scrolls a simultaneously motor shaft to 10 or more revolutions, which makes it easier. The starter offered to the attention of society has a housing handle made of emissions. The coil on which a ribbon of durable fabric is winding up is driven into rotation with a sharp stretching of the ribbon from the handle. Cathedral is made at the same time with the axis and cylindrical "cup", which is pressed by tires with a reverse cone. There are 2 bearing on the axis. The rear bearing is installed inside the handle, and the front in the spacer, through which all this node is fixed in the housing. On the opposite of the "cup" side of the axis there is a cutout, in which one end of the rubber harness is fixed. The rubber harness passes through the handle and at the opposite end is fixed in the lid (if you can say so). The spontaneous spout of the harness in the lid has a pin (it is visible in the photo).


In the manufacture of "cups", inside it is made of a bin, which keeps the rubber cone from falling out. The cone is done like this: without removing the "cup" lathe from the cartridge, a piece of leaf rubber is attached to it with a thickness of 20-25m. And the backstroke of the back of the lathe of the lathe, when the lathe is running, the rubber is crushed into a "cup". The cone is cut into the scalpel or another narrow sharp knife. After this, the cone surface is processed by sandpaper. The starter is going: the rubber harness is shrinking through the handle, fastened with a wire pin on the axis of the coil, and the opposite end of the harness is fixed by the same pin on the lid. For the lid, the harness is spinning clockwise until the handle on the ribbon is prevented into the housing handle. The driver is ready for launch. I had to easily launch a homemade engine volume of 8.5 cubes in winter at a temperature of -18 degrees. Respect for reading, lion.

Starter rework for DVS on autonomous food fromLipo.

Until now, I used the usual starter for its DVS models, that is, that is powered by the battery in the starting box. It's not too comfortable. Rolled into the spiral wire with terminals has to stretch, he always strives to get under the rotating screw, and the same fell a couple of times!

I saw in the field, as some models cling to the lapolka lamp lap tank, which immediately makes the starter independent of the starting box. I did not like only the fact that someone took a battery with scotch, and someone she just hangs on the wires. This seemed not the most successful decision, and I decided to build a special battery container, which would be part of the starter. Analogue served as a starter: Turnigy Lipoly Belt Drive Starter(Park Parking, Hobbyking)

At first, I simply cut the starter power wire and hit the HT60 connectors. So, on occasion, I can use the starter as before using the starting box.

And reflecting on what a container, I stopped, in my opinion, on the simplest solution. The container served as a segment of a plastic box for electrical wiring with a cross section of 80 x 40 mm. On the top snapshot, the ready-made device in which the starter is powered by two lipolak with a capacity of 2600 mAh each one.

(I ask you to not pay attention to the stickers. As the goat of rods wrote: "If you see the inscription" Buffalo "on the elephant cage - do not believe your eyes!" On the back of the other notation. I bought in the Hobbit Store in Beijing.) Along the way I decided the task - where to attach? I do not have models for them. But on occasion, they simply are withdrawn from the container and can go to the flight.

The container is simply screwed to the starter from the bottom, since the holes are prudently made in the legs of the latter. The ends cut off with the reserve of the box gently beaten, and then carefully welded to the sore soldering iron. This is the most reliable way for this plastic, as it glues badly.

Then I saved the splitter to reduce two batteries to one connector. On them T-shaped connectors that I do not really love.

For additional protection of the container, it is saved outside the reinforced tape, and inside the foam rubber in order to protect the batteries from the inaccurate treatment with the starter. The device is checked - it works.

Success in creative work!