The accumulator contacts were oxidized. How to clean the terminals and avoid further oxidation? We struggle with an acid ripple on the terminals of the Akb in different ways

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Not one driver for his car life faced such a problem as the oxidation of the terminals. These details, covering a light bloody, do not allow the battery normally function. In the case of strong oxidation and a large number of plaque, the car is most likely not started. In order to avoid such trouble, it is recommended to systematically check and clean contacts. It should be immediately found a reason because the cleansing of the terminals from a white plaque is not a solution to the problem. If you all collided with such a situation, to start reveal the reason.

What could be the causes of oxidation of contacts:

  • Electrolyte leakage. The most common case. Being an acid, the electrolyte when contacting contacts causes a reaction - as a result, we face oxidation. Since the battery vibrates all the time, the clearance is formed between the contacts, it is through it that the acid is falling on the surface of the terminal. For Akb of a modern type of this kind, the problem is not relevant, because such batteries are closed and the electrolyte is placed in a sealed container, where evaporates and falls into the sediment. But there are cases when the battery in the course of work in one way or another is damaged and through microscopic cracks the electrolyte comes in the form of a steam, it settles on the terminals, thereby provoking the chemical reaction. Please note: the electrolyte can sometimes leak at high battery charge when there are problems in the electrical circuit. It is also possible to leak when casting full-time ventilation holes.
  • Electrolyte with unacceptable density values. In order to avoid such situations, it is necessary to use the finished composition during its replacement during its replacement, and not independently measure the components to the desired proportions.
  • The development of the AKB resource is the situation in which the rods of the seals are wounded.
  • Tightening terminals. This happens when the driver puts the terminal to the electrode without fixing it with bolts, starts movement by car. The fragile mount gives weak contact, the reaction occurs from here. Exit from position - cleaning the terminal and electrode plus a tight tightening.

Experienced car enthusiasts did not come across this trouble, so it can be easily explained why a plus or minus terminal is oxidized.

We are looking for a problem

For several signs, you can easily determine if there is damage:

  • If you turn the key, and the starter is seized not from several attempts or is seriously twisted the crankshaft. There is a suggestion that the battery does not have enough charge, although not so long ago it was charged.
  • Onboard lights and headlights will not shine brightly.

Cleaning from white plaque

There are several ways to remove the collapse with the oxidized terminals. Remember Chemistry lessons: Alkali is an acid antagonist. Hence the simple advice - you can get rid of the plaque using ordinary soda. If the protective gum of contact is fully subjected to the formation of the plaque, it is recommended to be replaced because it has lost the necessary elasticity.

Step by step:

  • Motor motor in order to avoid wiring
  • We pay attention to the location of the battery conclusions. They can be located on the sides. To remove them, use the key to 8. Other conclusions can be found on top of the battery, the key will come in handy on 10.
  • Negative and positive terminals weaken and remove.
  • Next, we recommend thoroughly inspect

Browse the device for defects. When they are, then the battery needs to be changed.

Explore wires and terminals on traces of physical wear. When flaws are needed to replace parts.

Before embarking on the elimination of the plaque, the rubber gloves, they protect the skin of the hands from contact with aggressive media.

Prepare a soda solution. One tablespoon (30 g) soda stir in a glass (250 ml) of water. As a brush for applying, use a toothbrush.

Wipe the raid on the terminals. You can also dip the ends of the cables in the soda to remove the formations on them.

After rinse the winding and terminals of the battery with cold water. You need to wash until the whole soda is clear. Wipe the terminals with a cloth dry.

All open metal parts of the wiring and terminals are treated with technical vaseline. You can replace vaseline with a special lubricant-aerosol for terminals.

Oxisions plus terminal battery battery terminals

If soda failed to remove the flare or it tears partly, you can use the knife or sandpaper. Conduct actions should be careful not to damage the insulating sheath of the wire. Also, eliminate oxidation under the hood. The following method acts as an emergency cleaning:

It is necessary to put on gloves and fixing nuts on both wiring terminals to weaken the key. Clems themselves leave in place.

From above on the battery, pour Coca-Cola.

Let's stand for a few minutes, and then rinse the battery with water.

Wrap a dry device, then tighten the terminals and try running the motor.

On the Internet, you can find a way to clean the contacts with gasoline. This is far from safe, as combustible material is able to easily damage rubber and plastic. It is best to immediately prevent oxidation, and not constantly remove the electrolyte plaque with the terminals. The faster you identify the problem, the less harm will receive a vehicle.

before proceeding with cleaning, remove the decoration from the hands, as they can close the terminals or get into the moving parts of the motor;

so that there is no closure, you should first remove the minor terminal, and during the assignment to secure it last time;

when the timing on the terminals is stable and does not affect the toothbrush, it is possible to replace it with a wire brush;

in auto shops there are many spray cleaners and greases. Many of them are an acid indicator. Eliminate the flair by such means will be much faster and more efficient, but before starting work it is necessary to familiarize yourself with the instruction, since the methods of use in all means are different. If we talk about sprays - cleaners, then they are inferior to consistency lubricants in the strength of the coating. Unlike lubricant sprayers, the "long-playing" insulating coating is created, which does not react to detergents and has a bright color to control the application of the consistency.

Purification of the battery with soda mortar

Methods of combating oxidation

We continue to disassemble what to do if the battery terminals are oxidized? It is worth understanding that even a new battery can evaporate a little acid. To somehow deal with this, you need to pay attention to the tightness of the connection. When the terminals are cleaned and securely fixed back, you need to apply a special protective coating. Let us give several methods for protecting contacts from the occurrence of acid plaque:

Oil and felt. This method stretches from the long time, it is reliable and tested by time. Many drivers are therefore preferred to use it. Mixed felt felt imposed on the terminals to minimize the effects of vapor electrolyte and other external factors. To do this, make a circle with a hole in the middle. Impreet it with oil and attach to contact Akb. Then the on-board network is put on the contact vehicleFor cigarette, top with the second fooling gasket impregnated with oil.

Felt washers. The fastening process is similar to the fooling lining.

Technical vaseline, solidol, varnish. You can take other formulations that are well isolated and difficult to wash off. A good option is silicone lubricant, as it does not absorb pollution in contrast to other materials.

Special lubrication (anti-rig). You can get it in the auto shop. The mixture has anti-corrosion properties, it is an aerosol who pollinated terminals.

How to lubricate the battery terminals so that no oxidized plus terminal

Lubrication selection for battery terminals

If you do not know what to lubricate the battery terminals, so as not to oxidize, then use the tracking tips. Since the restoration of the battery is worth a lot of money, then approach the choice of funds is more serious. Opinions in the choice of lubrication for terminals always disagree. Some remain adherents of the Deadov methods, and others prefer new technical developments. On this occasion, it is worth making the arguments for and against.

The most chassis is solidol. After cleaning and tightening the terminals, it is applied by a thin layer, it will help forget about the problem for almost half a year, provided that everything is hermetically and the battery has no damage. Its minus can be called the fact that over time he begins to coke, that is, rolling into lumps, which can not be said about Vaseline. Vaseline is considered the next no less popular tool, you can use both pharmacy and technical. Although it perfectly protects batteries from moisture and soldering, but has bad conductivity. To fix it is necessary to mix with graphite lubricant in vaseline.

Litol can be attributed to the old security tools. Only he is inferior to all modern means of protection for efficiency, as it can wash off shampoo. He has a loose, loose structure, where there are no additives and additives or dyes. So far, many manufacturers have not renounced lubricant, and recommend them in the instructions on the battery.

What to do if terminals are oxidized to clean the contacts

If we consider modern tools, you can highlight the Molykote HSC Plus lubricant, it is created specifically for FIMM batteries, although it is used on the other AKB models. Its electrical conductivity at height, and specifications Consistent with temperature fluctuations from -30 to +1100 ° C. After you can select German spray lubricants that do not create transitional resistance, but provide a stable voltage. The most acceptable price can be cited as an example of the "CIATIM" means, however, its minus in poor conductivity.

But what about the fact that on some models of the battery it is impossible to make wetlasting gaskets impregnated with oil? Probably, the best way out of the situation will create overall protection - like the anther. For example, you can use a linoleum or a rug from the "Classics". Even if it looks not aesthetic on the outside, but at least somehow protects the battery from the penetration of dust and dirt.

Battery terminals are oxidized: what to do and what causes. What to clean the battery terminals from oxidation

How to quickly clean the battery terminals

There are cases when terminals rechargeable battery covered with white or greenish raid. These are oxidation of metals, it is also called electrochemical corrosion. At first, it does not appear in any way, except for an aesthetic species, but in the end such corrosion can adversely affect the contact between the connection terminal and the battery pole. I will show a very simple way to remove such a plaque in two accounts and contain the entire surface of the battery clean .

Clean the automotive battery terminals from oxidation quickly

Weaken the key bolts and remove both terminals.

As you can see a nail quite a lot.

Pour the battery poles with plentifully ordinary food soda.

Sing the splashed places with a small number of ordinary water.

Let me stand a little to pass the reaction. If necessary, then we will share soda.

Again, shed all the water, until the reaction is completely removed.

As you can see, the terminals and the poles are simply and quickly cleaned even without mechanical exposure.

We wipe the terminals, poles and the entire top of the battery dry with dry rag.

We clean the terminals and the poles in any convenient way to remove the possible residues of the oxide and the smooth surface.

We process protective sprays. You can buy it in automotive stores. This will prevent the further appearance of the oxide for a long period.

We dress the terminals, tighten the bolts.

The battery connection node is FIXED and is ready for further operation. This method was based on the wake of soda directly on the problem connection, but there is still a similar method when the soda is dissolved in water and this solution shed oxides. If the oxidis is very much in this case, then In my opinion it is better to use waking up, as it can create a large concentration of soda on the surface, thereby increasing the reaction rate. If the raid is a bit, then the solution will be more the best choiceSince they can easily shed the entire surface of the battery to remove not only oxides, but also the residues of the splashing electrolyte.

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How to clean the terminals from oxidation












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We struggle with the oxidation of terminals

What could be the causes of oxidation of contacts:

  • Electrolyte leakage. The most common case. Being an acid, the electrolyte when contacting contacts causes a reaction - as a result, we face oxidation. Since the battery vibrates all the time, the clearance is formed between the contacts, it is through it that the acid is falling on the surface of the terminal. For Akb of a modern type of this kind, the problem is not relevant, because such batteries are closed and the electrolyte is placed in a sealed container, where evaporates and falls into the sediment. But there are cases when the battery in the course of work in one way or another is damaged and through microscopic cracks the electrolyte comes in the form of a steam, it settles on the terminals, thereby provoking the chemical reaction. Please note: the electrolyte can sometimes leak at high battery charge when there are problems in the electrical circuit. It is also possible to leak when casting full-time ventilation holes.
  • Electrolyte with unacceptable density values. In order to avoid such situations, it is necessary to use the finished composition during its replacement during its replacement, and not independently measure the components to the desired proportions.
  • The development of the AKB resource is the situation in which the rods of the seals are wounded.
  • Tightening terminals. This happens when the driver puts the terminal to the electrode without fixing it with bolts, starts movement by car. The fragile mount gives weak contact, the reaction occurs from here. Exit from position - cleaning the terminal and electrode plus a tight tightening.

Experienced car enthusiasts did not come across this trouble, so it can be easily explained why a plus or minus terminal is oxidized.

We are looking for a problem

For several signs, you can easily determine if there is damage:

  • If you turn the key, and the starter is seized not from several attempts or is seriously twisted the crankshaft. There is a suggestion that the battery does not have enough charge, although not so long ago it was charged.
  • Onboard lights and headlights will not shine brightly.

Cleaning from white plaque

There are several ways to remove the collapse with the oxidized terminals. Remember Chemistry lessons: Alkali is an acid antagonist. Hence the simple advice - you can get rid of the plaque using ordinary soda. If the protective gum of contact is fully subjected to the formation of the plaque, it is recommended to be replaced because it has lost the necessary elasticity.

Step by step:

  • Motor motor in order to avoid wiring
  • We pay attention to the location of the battery conclusions. They can be located on the sides. To remove them, use the key to 8. Other conclusions can be found on top of the battery, the key will come in handy on 10.
  • Negative and positive terminals weaken and remove.
  • Next, we recommend thoroughly inspect

Browse the device for defects. When they are, then the battery needs to be changed.

Explore wires and terminals on traces of physical wear. When flaws are needed to replace parts.

Before embarking on the elimination of the plaque, the rubber gloves, they protect the skin of the hands from contact with aggressive media.

Prepare a soda solution. One tablespoon (30 g) soda stir in a glass (250 ml) of water. As a brush for applying, use a toothbrush.

Wipe the raid on the terminals. You can also dip the ends of the cables in the soda to remove the formations on them.

After rinse the winding and terminals of the battery with cold water. You need to wash until the whole soda is clear. Wipe the terminals with a cloth dry.

All open metal parts of the wiring and terminals are treated with technical vaseline. You can replace vaseline with a special lubricant-aerosol for terminals.

Oxisions plus terminal battery battery terminals

If soda failed to remove the flare or it tears partly, you can use the knife or sandpaper. Conduct actions should be careful not to damage the insulating sheath of the wire. Also, eliminate oxidation under the hood. The following method acts as an emergency cleaning:

It is necessary to put on gloves and fixing nuts on both wiring terminals to weaken the key. Clems themselves leave in place.

From above on the battery, pour Coca-Cola.

Let's stand for a few minutes, and then rinse the battery with water.

Wrap a dry device, then tighten the terminals and try running the motor.

On the Internet, you can find a way to clean the contacts with gasoline. This is far from safe, as combustible material is able to easily damage rubber and plastic. It is best to immediately prevent oxidation, and not constantly remove the electrolyte plaque with the terminals. The faster you identify the problem, the less harm will receive a vehicle.

before proceeding with cleaning, remove the decoration from the hands, as they can close the terminals or get into the moving parts of the motor;

so that there is no closure, you should first remove the minor terminal, and during the assignment to secure it last time;

when the timing on the terminals is stable and does not affect the toothbrush, it is possible to replace it with a wire brush;

in auto shops there are many spray cleaners and greases. Many of them are an acid indicator. Eliminate the flair by such means will be much faster and more efficient, but before starting work it is necessary to familiarize yourself with the instruction, since the methods of use in all means are different. If we talk about sprays - cleaners, then they are inferior to consistency lubricants in the strength of the coating. Unlike lubricant sprayers, the "long-playing" insulating coating is created, which does not react to detergents and has a bright color to control the application of the consistency.

Purification of the battery with soda mortar

Methods of combating oxidation

We continue to disassemble what to do if the battery terminals are oxidized? It is worth understanding that even a new battery can evaporate a little acid. To somehow deal with this, you need to pay attention to the tightness of the connection. When the terminals are cleaned and securely fixed back, you need to apply a special protective coating. Let us give several methods for protecting contacts from the occurrence of acid plaque:

Oil and felt. This method stretches from the long time, it is reliable and tested by time. Many drivers are therefore preferred to use it. Mixed felt felt imposed on the terminals to minimize the effects of vapor electrolyte and other external factors. To do this, make a circle with a hole in the middle. Impreet it with oil and attach to contact Akb. Then the terminal of the vehicle's on-board network is put on the contact, for curing, they laid the second fooling gasket soaked in oil.

Felt washers. The fastening process is similar to the fooling lining.

Technical vaseline, solidol, varnish. You can take other formulations that are well isolated and difficult to wash off. A good option is silicone lubricant, as it does not absorb pollution in contrast to other materials.

Special lubrication (anti-rig). You can get it in the auto shop. The mixture has anti-corrosion properties, it is an aerosol who pollinated terminals.

How to lubricate the battery terminals so that no oxidized plus terminal

Lubrication selection for battery terminals

If you do not know what to lubricate the battery terminals, so as not to oxidize, then use the tracking tips. Since the restoration of the battery is worth a lot of money, then approach the choice of funds is more serious. Opinions in the choice of lubrication for terminals always disagree. Some remain adherents of the Deadov methods, and others prefer new technical developments. On this occasion, it is worth making the arguments for and against.

The most chassis is solidol. After cleaning and tightening the terminals, it is applied by a thin layer, it will help forget about the problem for almost half a year, provided that everything is hermetically and the battery has no damage. Its minus can be called the fact that over time he begins to coke, that is, rolling into lumps, which can not be said about Vaseline. Vaseline is considered the next no less popular tool, you can use both pharmacy and technical. Although it perfectly protects batteries from moisture and soldering, but has bad conductivity. To fix it is necessary to mix with graphite lubricant in vaseline.

Litol can be attributed to the old security tools. Only he is inferior to all modern means of protection for efficiency, as it can wash off shampoo. He has a loose, loose structure, where there are no additives and additives or dyes. So far, many manufacturers have not renounced lubricant, and recommend them in the instructions on the battery.

What to do if terminals are oxidized to clean the contacts

If we consider modern tools, you can highlight the Molykote HSC Plus lubricant, it is created specifically for FIMM batteries, although it is used on the other AKB models. Its electrical conductivity at height, and the technical characteristics are unchanged when temperature fluctuations from -30 to +1100 ° C. After you can select German spray lubricants that do not create transitional resistance, but provide a stable voltage. The most acceptable price can be cited as an example of the "CIATIM" means, however, its minus in poor conductivity.

But what about the fact that on some models of the battery it is impossible to make wetlasting gaskets impregnated with oil? Probably, the best way out of the situation will create overall protection - like the anther. For example, you can use a linoleum or a rug from the "Classics". Even if it looks not aesthetic on the outside, but at least somehow protects the battery from the penetration of dust and dirt.

trezvyi-voditel.su.

Why oxidized terminals on the battery and how to deal with it?

The question of why terminals on the battery are oxidized, worried many car owners different marks machines. Oxide only looks like it looks so beautiful and interesting, and in fact it brings a lot of problems even by experienced drivers (not to mention newcomers who simply do not imagine that it can be done with it, and than dangerous such a neoplasm). And perhaps, you need to change the terminals themselves? Or is it time to throw out an old battery and run buy new? Or simply clean the contacts and recharge the battery? Why do the terminals on the battery are oxidized? You can tell you anyone who knows at least a few chemistry, or simply - electrician from car service. And if you think that the contacts are oxidized only with the newcomers who have recently sitting for the ram, they assure that it is not. Everything happens much more harder, according to the laws of nature. Just a knowledgeable driver in time will turn its attention to this phenomenon and take the appropriate steps to eliminate the problem.
The main reasons forelectrite hits the contact itself. Perhaps the rods are loosened in the battery. Or one of the batteries sections are loosely closed by a plug. As a result, the contact is oxidized under the influence of oxygen, and a white flare appears. It is recommended to check the battery on the tightness and position of the rods. Also - check the density of the plug twist if they are available.
  • Fatigue of the battery itself. This means that its resource on the outcome (rod seals fucked, and the unit itself will no longer take the charge). It is recommended to change the old battery for a new one. Although if the battery is properly maintained, the service life can be somewhat extended;
  • The electrolyte density does not comply with the stated standards (elevated or lowered). How can this be avoided? It is necessary to comply with the battery maintenance time and use the ready-made high-quality electrolyte, and not to dilute the acid itself. When taking the use of only distilled water;
  • Battery case is damaged. Circuit of one of the tanks-cans. Leak of electrolytic fluid.

Signs of oxidation with visual signs all, more or less, clear. The visible white flare just testifies to this phenomenon. But in many modern batteries, the terminals are protected by special linings so that at first glance and do not diagnose the problem. In addition, some drivers are typical quite rarely open the hood cover. How else can you recognize the signs of nascent faults? When trying to start (especially in winter), the starter does not immediately have enough or turn the crankshaft, as if, with difficulty. And this is despite that you just recently imagined the battery through a special device. In the evening, the light of the headlights and dimensions as it were, it becomes not so bright as before. This signal indicates a possible oxidation of battery contacts.
What can be done? From the course of chemistry, even a schoolboy should be known, which neutralizes the acid alkaline environment, acting as an antagonist. So we can eliminate the emerging oxidation with the help of ordinary soda used in the kitchen. How to clean the oxidized contacts with the smallest losses? If there is already a fairly thick layer of white plaque, protective lining, absorbed by the medium, simply cut off (after you can put new ones, they are not expensive) and release the place of access to the terminals. Then - unscrew and remove the battery. And the liberated terminals are immersed in soda solution. It is quite simple to prepare it: dissolve in well-heated water (half a compound) several spoons of soda food. But the solution should be sufficient enough so that the chemical process takes place quickly. This procedure must be enough if the state of the terminals is not yet critical, and the falling there, the resulting, eaten not too deep. Otherwise, you need to use sandpaper or a sharp knife to clean up to the metal, and then use the soda solution to finally remove the oxidation. Shlifuya Terminem, at the same time you can check it on the subject of joining the wire: it should not hang and stick on snot. If you notice like this, immediately eliminate the problem.
After stripping contacts do not forget about the boost space. There may also be traces of oxidation from the battery may also be present. We remove, missing the soda solution or expanding the eatter. Yes, and do not forget about the battery itself, which attachments are also most likely, in white ride from oxidation. We take the sandpaper and gently rub it to the metal. The removed battery is convenient to clean from the oxidation of contacts on the rubber rug. Then the whole formed metallic and acid-alkaline dust would be well blurred by pressure of compressed air. Precautions: It is necessary before performing work to wear rubber protective gloves. They will be able to save your hands from the effects of reactive media, both sour and alkaline. It should also be forgotten that near the battery, which is worth a shot nearby, do not smoke, put heaters with open spirals, use open fire. Highly, the cleaning procedure itself, as we see, there is nothing particularly difficult. Anyone will cope, even inexperienced newbie. The main thing is to look at the hood often and do not miss the signals that the car itself gives you. Now you know why the terminals are oxidized on the battery, and what you need to do to remove this whitish falling from the contacts. But if the problem gets out again and again, then, most likely, the case is in the battery case, and you will have to buy a new one.

How to lubricate the battery terminals? Overview of all means and methods

It is necessary to clearly know what to lubricate the battery terminals and how often it is necessary to do it to avoid many problems. Carelessness in this issue will quickly lead you to the need to start "from the pusher", and the battery will last for a short time. But to restore it is a cost, not to mention the purchase of a new one. Why smear the battery terminals - the subject of hot disputes between motorists. And disputes do not subside for many years. There are fans of new industrial developments, there are supporters of proven methods. Consider the arguments and those and others. Refilax - our accelerated terminals of the battery on your car are constantly covered by a raid, it means that it is not easy to clean the terminals, but to find out why this happens. Prichin is not so much, and they are all eliminated:
  • bad, weak contact between the battery and the wire tip. Between them, a gap was formed through which the electrolyte pairs penetrate - here's the source of oxidation. Seat damage - and you can forget for a long time about problems with terminals;
  • on the terminal itself, the coating is shred or scratched. Will have to change it;
  • the output of the battery is notometric, the electrolyte is inserted from it and corps the surface of the contact node. Again - we seal!;
  • switch generator. There will have to find out the reason for this phenomenon. Very often it causes a cant of the regulator relay, but in each case you need to understand separately;
  • "Lost" mass on the engine. We restore - and get rid of problems with terminals.
But all this is if the oxidation occurs regularly. For prevention, check the battery is still needed: as it is neither sealing, no matter how protecting from external influences, it will still be pollution, and - let small - oxidation.
Preliminary processing, than to lubricate the terminals, you need to process the battery from the already formed oxides and accumulated dust. You can use ordinary water (Although the distilled) is recommended, but it does not remove oxides. Therefore, most of the car owners use a solution of soda for these purposes, and only after it is water. You should not take something more chemically strong, you can damage the car. Some carbuilders for washing use a conventional Coca-Cola and assure that the effect of it is even better than soda. There are fans of physical methods, i.e. the use of sandwich. However, he has significant disadvantages: firstly, scratches remain on terminals, which will provoke their further, and faster oxidation. Secondly, the friction is completely oxidized to remove it - the inconspicable eye of the little things will still remain that is not good. After removal, all the details wipe dry and proceed to lubricant.
Lubricants, tested times more popular solidol (as an option - Litol or Nigrol), used by our grandfathers. After tight tightening the terminals, they are lubricated with a thin layer - and for half a year you are guaranteed from problems (if the tightness is not broken, there is no breakdown, etc.). The second place among traditionalists occupies a vaseline - both technical and ordinary pharmacy. But, if Solidol is in principle, even with supporters of innovations, then vaseline they have a lot of doubt. It is well protecting the terminals from moisture, to some extent hinders their "soldering" to the battery, but he has difficulty with conductivity. To overcome them to Vaseline, many add graphite lubricant. Tools for lazy: When checking the oil level, the diplomas on the terminals. Since the level is checked often, the lubricant is updated regularly, and the prevention of the battery will be required not soon - again, if it does not have "personal" problems described above. Although it is still worth occasionally from dust.
If solidol is selected. Beginner motorists from generation to generation repeat the same error: they apply it between the batteries and wire terminals. They forget that from high temperatures (which cannot be avoided) Solidol is captured and hardens. As a result, dry, very dense crust. She does not conduct current, as a result of which contact disappears. And it is extremely difficult to consider it! By the way, a warning concerns other lubricants: problems with them are less difficult to eliminate, but also unpleasant. There is a huge number of different lubricants for battery terminals. You can advise the following:
  • Molykote HSC Plus. Designed for FIMM batteries, but can also be used for others. Her electrical conductivity is quite high, and the lubricant retains performance at temperatures from minus thirty to + 1100 ° C;
  • German spray-lubricant. The manufacturer guarantees the absence of transient resistance and the presence of a stable voltage. Very convenient to use - I pressed the button and apply. Protection heat resistant, plus does not allow oxidation from acid evaporation batteries;
  • "CIATIM". Regarding the pricing policy is most loyal, but the conductivity of some users is considered insufficient.

The advice of an experimental motorist Some machines is set by a battery not too successful design, in which each bank is equipped with an individual lid. Under them are certainly clogged dust and dirt, and since there are several traffic jams, the risk of trash in the electrolyte is increased at times. It is possible to make a felt cap, soapped with oil, but there is a lot of and with their construction, and under the subsequent use. It is wiser to make a general coating - like an anther. Even the linoleum will go, although it will look outnetic. But the mat from the "Classics", circumcised by the size of the cover, will fall like a native. In conclusion, we note: choose what to lubricate the battery terminals is your business. The main thing is not to forget to produce the necessary prophylaxis. Every car enthusiast should know how to remove the terminals from the battery, even an inexperienced user. And if your car is currently worth "on joke", it does not mean that the battery terminals will remain perfectly clean until you decide to get behind the wheel again. Evaporation from the battery is still inequalized, the air - circulates and provokes oxidation, the contacts interact with inevitable contaminants, and a whitish flare is formed. So the likelihood is that, by gathering somewhere to go after a long downtime, you just can not get started. What is the reason: got a battery? Most likely, no: just need to clean the oxidized terminals, and the car starts again. It is also very important, to regularly carry out the battery prophylaxis if you use a car every day (well, or, in any case, often). Moreover, even from school lessons in physics, everyone knows that good contact and conductivity is the key to the successful flow of electric current to all "driven" parts of your typewriter. And the purity and lack of oxidation on the terminals, to a large extent, will contribute to this. As you can remember the terminals from the battery, and even the child will cope with the process itself. The main thing in this business is to abide care and the correct sequence of actions, so that you did not hit the current. And the blow to the current is still the smallest problem: Spark, quite, may and fire provoke. Therefore, in addition to the rules of personal security, it is necessary to observe and fire-fighting - not to lay the washed rags around the battery and especially newspapers and paper.
Sequence Action Action Opening Part of the battery search - I think if the car is not the first day you already, you also know where it is. If the battery is covered with a lid (factory or homemade), it must be removed. If the machine is grounded - the ground is turned off first. Many disputes around the sequence of shutdown terminals. What is first removed, plus or minus? Definite minus! Turning off the negative terminal, you leave the "mass" without potential. So even a random touch of a positive closure terminal will not cause. After turning off, if the "plus" is open (lost "native" cover), it must be wrapped with a cloth or put on a plastic cap from a bottle with a detergent - then it's not exactly pulling until you take off with "Minus". The nut on the "mass" is weakened, after which the terminal is removed. If she managed to fuck, her slightly loosened by a wrench. Then from the factory lid (or improvised shell) is released and "plus" is removed. Although the negative terminal has already been removed, it is still better to try not to touch at the same time "plus" and something metallic under the hood - as you know, and uncharged rifle can shoot.
Processing the contact of the terminal with the battery was ideal, before returning them to the place you need to clean the conclusions. For this, they fall asleep with ordinary food soda. The same is done with terminals. A special brush is taken - it is sold in any auto shop and worth a penny, and in the farm thing is very useful. If you have no such - buy sure. It looks like a two-piece consisting of two parts: one with a rigid "pile", the second is a narrow, inverting into any gaps. Laziness to buy such a useful tool - boast an old toothbrush. True, she has a bristle too soft, so it will have to melt longer. The brush is considered to be all unnecessary from the terminals and conclusions, after which they are washed with distilled water - it is more convenient to use the spray gun. It is possible, in principle, it is possible to use conventional water, but salts can be formed from it if you are not well removed moisture. When the desired degree of purity is achieved, all drops are wiped with clean rags, and the terminals and conclusions are lubricated with anti-corrosion. What exactly - choose to you, but at least technical vaseline should be broken.
Reverse collechant terminals on the conclusions wear in reverse order - All of the same security reasons. First, the "plus" is put on and is naked with a nut. When its free move ends, it reaches the key. The main thing is not to overdo it in order not to thwart the threads. Then the defense is put on the terminal. With her loss, most people are wrapped with a cloth terminal. In our opinion, it is not too reasonable, because the fabric is easily flammable. Therefore, it is better to cut off the strip of rubber and secure it with a piece of wire - until you reach the place where the lid can be bought. Then it is worn and a negative terminal is fixed - in the same way: until the end of the free move, the nut is screwed by hand, then it is cordially carried by the key. If there is a common protective cover, it is put in place, all tools are removed from the hood. The rags you used are emitted - it can be in electrolyte. I will recommend to carry out such a procedure more often, as you remove the terminals from the battery and return them to the place - it's not a protracted thing at all, but it can prevent very serious problems. Do not be lazy to look under the hood at least once a month.

Maintenance and checking of the generator VAZ

Generator maintenance
Generator maintenance lies:
  1. in cleaning outdoor surfaces.
  2. in checking the fasteners of the generator to the engine.
  3. in checking the reliability of wire connections with a voltage generator and regulator
  4. in checking tension drive belt The generator (if the tension is weak - the generator will work unstable, if strong - the belt and bearings are rapid wear). Check should be carried out every 10 thousand km. Run.
  5. in checking the status of the generator belt (there should not be cracks and bundles).
  6. in checking the state of the generator bearings (remove the belt and rotate the generator rotor, if they are seized, the backlash, noises, or clicks - the bearings should be replaced).
How could you notice independent service The generator is minimized, and does not require any special knowledge and skills. These works can be limited to these works until any malfunction appear.
Check and tension belt of the VAZ generator 2110
If we talk about the vase of the tenth family, then the generator belt according to the norm should be fed by 10-15 mm at an effort 100 H (10 kgf).
Checking the control lamp generator
It is recommended to check the operation of the generator when the engine is started over the control lamp dashboard (under №16). After turning on the ignition before starting the engine, the lamp is on, which allows you to check its performance. After starting - the control lamp goes out, which indicates the normal operation of the generator.

If the engine runs the lamp brightly lit or shines in full, it indicates a weak tension (cliff) of the generator drive belt or a malfunction in the chain chain, and possibly the generator itself. It is normal for a working generator set, with medium turnover, the voltage must be within the limits 13.5 ... 14,2V. The magnitude of this voltage is measured by a voltmeter on the terminals of the battery.
Generator diagnostics
The burning control lamp Charging the battery does not always speak of a malfunction inside the generator. Most often, the malfunction is banal and lies "on the surface." Before removing the generator, it is recommended to use the procedure for preliminary diagnostics of the generator (possibly will need a voltmeter with a scale of at least 15V).
If the preliminary diagnosis has shown that the excitation winding circuit is proper, and the malfunction is in the generator, then it is desirable to check all the chains, including the relay controller. By the way, after installing the "strong" acoustics, a subwoofer and other sources of consumption, a regular generator may not cope. In this case, it can be replaced with a more powerful one or modify the generator.

xN - 2111-43DA1A8C.XN - P1AI

All places of fastenings "Mass" VAZ of the tenth family

Location of masses in the cabin of the car
1 - fuse block.2 - near the driver's right foot is the shield that is attached by a couple of self-tapping screws, removing it, you will see that everything is there as in the picture.3 - in principle, the situation is similar to the item described above, except that the shield is located nearby With left foot of the navigator.
Hairpin in torpedo for mounting blockIt would be necessary to find it to find it in a definite way. There, for a reference point, the hydrocorrector of headlights is shown, the masspid is higher and left to the left. Through this mass feed wipers, fan stove (21124) and activators of door locks.
The console is the right side, hence it is more convenient to check a very important hairpin of the mass, through it the bracket is connected to the car body, and the reliability of the mass of the ECM and the cooling fan depends on it - this nut holds the same corner that supports the long part of the left cantole.
Crimples masses harness Esud in the console. The connector is removed from the computer and is pulled out onto a driver's rug, it is more convenient. I got the fan mass of the ignition chain crimping (left in the photo), adjusted, put the tip and connected separately to the bracket. All connections have rehabited for reliability.
The mass of the electric gas station module is easy to find and not removing the tunnel, it is enough to throw back the rug, slightly bent or gently trim the carpet flooring of the floor driver's seat Below the ashtray of the rear passengers, without damaging the mass itself itself. Then the carpet turns easily falls into place and the cut is almost not visible.
Location of the masses under the hood of the car
The battery terminal is large and thick with a large cross section (approximately 16kv.mm). Its thick part, approximately with a thick thickness, connects minus battery and engine. With the unreliable contact of this wire, the accuracy of the battery charge is possible, reduced the speed of the starter when starting, as well as problems in the ECM system, because The minus on it comes from the engine, with the studs, in which the ignition distributor hung in carburetor a / m.
The thin wire connecting the minus battery and the car body is the main connection for all consumers of electricity in the car, and in carburetor modifications also for the engine. Through this connection, all the lighting equipment of the car, radio tape recorder and other devices, depending on the year of the car.
The connection point of the minus terminal of the battery to the engine block is connected to the top of the thermostat, if you look at air filter. The wire section is chosen based on a large current consumption current, this wire can be easily traced by hand if you lead from the battery. The starter current flows through this wire, charging the battery, some sensors circled into the engine block through it
Nearby there is another point of connecting the mass on the engine block, it is slightly higher and left. In Engine 2112, two brown wires are connected to this place - this is the mass of the ECM, that is, the masses of the sensors, the ignition module, the computer and the cooling fan. Below the arrow shows the motor mass (starter) from the battery.
Point of mass under the adsorber - Miha suggested that it is right headlight And the mass of the right fog.

xN - 2111-43DA1A8C.XN - P1AI

Replacing the battery wire terminals on all VAZ cars


Welcome! Wire terminals - play a biggest role, the wiring without them would have been simply bare and hook it to the conclusions of the battery, it would not have been possible, thanks to the terminals, it was all decisibly, they whatever they clamp this wiring which is bare and after which the terminal is placed on the necessary Conclusion, thereby ensuring constant contact with the batteries and the wiring in the car does not close and everything works as it is necessary.

Note! To replace the terminals of the wires, go back: new good terminals, as well as bolts for them (if they are without bolts), you may need another item thanks to which the thin metal can be cut (and to be more accurate, then cut you most likely you have to make an old terminal, in the place where it crepts the wire or you can go to another way, cut the wire itself and the terminal with a short residue of the wire is to simply postpone on the side, what path whether you will choose, decide, we recommend that you use the first option, because there may be wires Not enough after you are under the root to the terminal will cut)!

  • Replacing terminals
  • Extra video clip

Where are the terminals? If you have not yet understood what today in the article will be speaking, then we will give you a little clarity, immediately speak, there will be no speech about the Wires (just some people are confused with terminals), and this article will go on metal terminals today in this article. which the wires themselves are fixed to the battery, look at them in more detail, you can in the photo just below, the wire is indicated by a blue arrow, and the red terminal is respectively.

When should I change the terminals? Over time, the terminals rust (they are so in fact it is necessary to clean and nothing rust will not rust, we will pass with a metal brush once a month and there will be no problems) and press breaking (place breakdown, in the photo below is the red arrow, the crack as you see), From the fact that the terminal rusted, the contact is still deteriorating, and this is where it is worse, so with any deformation of the terminal, when rust has appeared on it, which is no longer removed, the terminal is to be replaced by a new one, to change them in a pair there is no need if you have a second Terminal in good condition, then in fact you can even touch it and by the way, the Terminem is cut from time to time and it can no longer be completely shy to grab the conclusion, there is no contact or there is a very bad (the terminal is dangling, although Her bolt is tightened until it stops), in this case, the terminal is also subject to replacement.

How to replace terminals on all VAZ cars?

Removal: 1. Let's start with the fact that all terminals are made in different ways and in different ways they hold the wires, which in the middle part the wire is clamped, and even in the side, to some terminals it is connected even not one, and two or as many three Wires (a bright example you can look at the photo below), after you look at your terminals and you will understand how many wires they hold, break to the disconnection of all wires from the terminals, the side wires are disconnected easily, simply bolts unscrew that they hold them and after that Removed wires from the terminal (the bolts are shown in red arrows), but the average wire (the largest) is harder to disconnect from the terminals and here two options, or to cut it under the root (as close as possible to the terminal, in the place that is indicated by the blue arrow), or cutting the middle part that the wire and keeps (see a small photo), in the first case you must take into account the fact that cutting the wire it will be shorter and therefore immediately try and will the terminal get to the output The battery after it is combined with this woofer, the second option is the best, but only for it will be needed. Tools, because what did the metal hit you do not work out (as a last resort, try to use the hammer and flat big dump if the metal is old, it will break it and the wire will be removed, but only to remove the wire will have to do the car to damage You will be a hammer on the pumping).

Installation: Most hardly behind, install the terminal is easier simple, it goes folding and clamping any passats that you do not need anything, just apply a thick wire to the terminal (you need to put it, where the clamping plate is pressed, it is specified in the blue arrow) and Apply the clamping bar and wrapping it with two bolts that are shown in red arrows, if you have two more, then each of these wires to put under the bolts will need side, in more detail how it is done, look at a small photo, but only consider more The fact that the bolts can be larger diameter and the wires simply clamp can not be able to stop the tip of the wire and remove the cord not greater and replace it with a new one (with an increased diameter) and everything will be certified.

Note! When installing the terminal, do not tighten it to Talova how they love to do most of the newcomers, especially the owners of domestic classics (old classics, new injectors, this is essentially not much concerned but still, everything may be insured), the terminal It is necessary to tighten it so that it can not be removed simply pulling to the top, but only that she starred it from the output, it is done for your security, what happens to, the short circuit will occur in the car, you will drown the engine and the battery will still give the current And to stop supplying the current into the on-board network, you will have to run over a wrench, and during this time it will already be full of wiring, and if the fire will fall there or gas, then in this case before the fire is not long, so be careful!

Additional video clip: on any car terminals are identically replaced and in fact it is not important to VAZ or a foreign car, just need to understand how they are fixed and then the splits of the terminal or cut off a little more wires, disconnect the wires and replace the terminal, in more detail how You can do it all, you can see in two videos, both of which are located just below:

www.alanda-auto.ru.

What to clean the terminals from oxidation

Why oxidized terminals on the battery and how to deal with it?

The question of why terminals on the battery are oxidized, worried about many car owners of various brands of cars. Oxide only looks like it looks so beautiful and interesting, and in fact it brings a lot of problems even by experienced drivers (not to mention newcomers who simply do not imagine that it can be done with it, and than dangerous such a neoplasm). And perhaps, you need to change the terminals themselves? Or is it time to throw out an old battery and run buy new? Or simply clean the contacts and recharge the battery? Why do the terminals on the battery are oxidized? You can tell you anyone who knows at least a few chemistry, or simply - electrician from car service. And if you think that the contacts are oxidized only with the newcomers who have recently sitting for the ram, they assure that it is not. Everything happens much more harder, according to the laws of nature. Just a knowledgeable driver in time will turn its attention to this phenomenon and take the appropriate steps to eliminate the problem.
The main reasons forelectrite hits the contact itself. Perhaps the rods are loosened in the battery. Or one of the batteries sections are loosely closed by a plug. As a result, the contact is oxidized under the influence of oxygen, and a white flare appears. It is recommended to check the battery on the tightness and position of the rods. Also - check the density of the plug twist if they are available.
  • Fatigue of the battery itself. This means that its resource on the outcome (rod seals fucked, and the unit itself will no longer take the charge). It is recommended to change the old battery for a new one. Although if the battery is properly maintained, the service life can be somewhat extended;
  • The electrolyte density does not comply with the stated standards (elevated or lowered). How can this be avoided? It is necessary to comply with the battery maintenance time and use the ready-made high-quality electrolyte, and not to dilute the acid itself. When taking the use of only distilled water;
  • Battery case is damaged. Circuit of one of the tanks-cans. Leak of electrolytic fluid.

Signs of oxidation with visual signs all, more or less, clear. The visible white flare just testifies to this phenomenon. But in many modern batteries, the terminals are protected by special linings so that at first glance and do not diagnose the problem. In addition, some drivers are typical quite rarely open the hood cover. How else can you recognize the signs of nascent faults? When trying to start (especially in winter), the starter does not immediately have enough or turn the crankshaft, as if, with difficulty. And this is despite that you just recently imagined the battery through a special device. In the evening, the light of the headlights and dimensions as it were, it becomes not so bright as before. This signal indicates a possible oxidation of battery contacts.
What can be done? From the course of chemistry, even a schoolboy should be known, which neutralizes the acid alkaline environment, acting as an antagonist. So we can eliminate the emerging oxidation with the help of ordinary soda used in the kitchen. How to clean the oxidized contacts with the smallest losses? If there is already a fairly thick layer of white plaque, protective lining, absorbed by the medium, simply cut off (after you can put new ones, they are not expensive) and release the place of access to the terminals. Then - unscrew and remove the battery. And the liberated terminals are immersed in soda solution. It is quite simple to prepare it: dissolve in well-heated water (half a compound) several spoons of soda food. But the solution should be sufficient enough so that the chemical process takes place quickly. This procedure must be enough if the state of the terminals is not yet critical, and the falling there, the resulting, eaten not too deep. Otherwise, you need to use sandpaper or a sharp knife to clean up to the metal, and then use the soda solution to finally remove the oxidation. Shlifuya Terminem, at the same time you can check it on the subject of joining the wire: it should not hang and stick on snot. If you notice like this, immediately eliminate the problem.
After stripping contacts do not forget about the boost space. There may also be traces of oxidation from the battery may also be present. We remove, missing the soda solution or expanding the eatter. Yes, and do not forget about the battery itself, which attachments are also most likely, in white ride from oxidation. We take the sandpaper and gently rub it to the metal. The removed battery is convenient to clean from the oxidation of contacts on the rubber rug. Then the whole formed metallic and acid-alkaline dust would be well blurred by pressure of compressed air. Precautions: It is necessary before performing work to wear rubber protective gloves. They will be able to save your hands from the effects of reactive media, both sour and alkaline. It should also be forgotten that near the battery, which is worth a shot nearby, do not smoke, put heaters with open spirals, use open fire. Highly, the cleaning procedure itself, as we see, there is nothing particularly difficult. Anyone will cope, even inexperienced newbie. The main thing is to look at the hood often and do not miss the signals that the car itself gives you. Now you know why the terminals are oxidized on the battery, and what you need to do to remove this whitish falling from the contacts. But if the problem gets out again and again, then, most likely, the case is in the battery case, and you will have to buy a new one.

How to lubricate the battery terminals? Overview of all means and methods

It is necessary to clearly know what to lubricate the battery terminals and how often it is necessary to do it to avoid many problems. Carelessness in this issue will quickly lead you to the need to start "from the pusher", and the battery will last for a short time. But to restore it is a cost, not to mention the purchase of a new one. Why smear the battery terminals - the subject of hot disputes between motorists. And disputes do not subside for many years. There are fans of new industrial developments, there are supporters of proven methods. Consider the arguments and those and others. Refilax - our accelerated terminals of the battery on your car are constantly covered by a raid, it means that it is not easy to clean the terminals, but to find out why this happens. Prichin is not so much, and they are all eliminated:
  • bad, weak contact between the battery and the wire tip. Between them, a gap was formed through which the electrolyte pairs penetrate - here's the source of oxidation. Seat damage - and you can forget for a long time about problems with terminals;
  • on the terminal itself, the coating is shred or scratched. Will have to change it;
  • the output of the battery is notometric, the electrolyte is inserted from it and corps the surface of the contact node. Again - we seal!;
  • switch generator. There will have to find out the reason for this phenomenon. Very often it causes a cant of the regulator relay, but in each case you need to understand separately;
  • "Lost" mass on the engine. We restore - and get rid of problems with terminals.
But all this is if the oxidation occurs regularly. For prevention, check the battery is still needed: as it is neither sealing, no matter how protecting from external influences, it will still be pollution, and - let small - oxidation.
Preliminary processing, than to lubricate the terminals, you need to process the battery from the already formed oxides and accumulated dust. You can use in conventional water (although the distilled) is recommended, but it does not remove oxides. Therefore, most of the car owners use a solution of soda for these purposes, and only after it is water. You should not take something more chemically strong, you can damage the car. Some carbuilders for washing use a conventional Coca-Cola and assure that the effect of it is even better than soda. There are fans of physical methods, i.e. the use of sandwich. However, he has significant disadvantages: firstly, scratches remain on terminals, which will provoke their further, and faster oxidation. Secondly, the friction is completely oxidized to remove it - the inconspicable eye of the little things will still remain that is not good. After removal, all the details wipe dry and proceed to lubricant.
Lubricants, tested times more popular solidol (as an option - Litol or Nigrol), used by our grandfathers. After tight tightening the terminals, they are lubricated with a thin layer - and for half a year you are guaranteed from problems (if the tightness is not broken, there is no breakdown, etc.). The second place among traditionalists occupies a vaseline - both technical and ordinary pharmacy. But, if Solidol is in principle, even with supporters of innovations, then vaseline they have a lot of doubt. It is well protecting the terminals from moisture, to some extent hinders their "soldering" to the battery, but he has difficulty with conductivity. To overcome them to vaseline, many add graphite lubricant. Proceeds for lazy: when checking the oil level, the diploma falls on the terminals. Since the level is checked often, the lubricant is updated regularly, and the prevention of the battery will be required not soon - again, if it does not have "personal" problems described above. Although it is still worth occasionally from dust.
If solidol is selected. Beginner motorists from generation to generation repeat the same error: they apply it between the batteries and wire terminals. They forget that from high temperatures (which cannot be avoided) solidol collapsing and hardens. As a result, dry, very dense crust. She does not conduct current, as a result of which contact disappears. And it is extremely difficult to consider it! By the way, a warning concerns other lubricants: problems with them are less difficult to eliminate, but also unpleasant. There is a huge number of different lubricants for battery terminals. You can advise the following:
  • Molykote HSC Plus. Designed for FIMM batteries, but can also be used for others. Her electrical conductivity is quite high, and the lubricant retains performance at temperatures from minus thirty to + 1100 ° C;
  • German spray-lubricant. The manufacturer guarantees the absence of transient resistance and the presence of a stable voltage. Very convenient to use - I pressed the button and apply. Protection heat resistant, plus does not allow oxidation from acid evaporation batteries;
  • "CIATIM". Regarding the pricing policy is most loyal, but the conductivity of some users is considered insufficient.

The advice of an experimental motorist Some machines is set by a battery not too successful design, in which each bank is equipped with an individual lid. Under them are certainly clogged dust and dirt, and since there are several traffic jams, the risk of trash in the electrolyte is increased at times. It is possible to make a felt cap, soapped with oil, but there is a lot of and with their construction, and under the subsequent use. It is wiser to make a general coating - like an anther. Even the linoleum will go, although it will look outnetic. But the mat from the "Classics", circumcised by the size of the cover, will fall like a native. In conclusion, we note: choose what to lubricate the battery terminals is your business. The main thing is not to forget to produce the necessary prophylaxis. Every car enthusiast should know how to remove the terminals from the battery, even an inexperienced user. And if your car is currently worth "on joke", it does not mean that the battery terminals will remain perfectly clean until you decide to get behind the wheel again. Evaporation from the battery is still inequalized, the air - circulates and provokes oxidation, the contacts interact with inevitable contaminants, and a whitish flare is formed. So the likelihood is that, by gathering somewhere to go after a long downtime, you just can not get started. What is the reason: got a battery? Most likely, no: just need to clean the oxidized terminals, and the car starts again. It is also very important, to regularly carry out the battery prophylaxis if you use a car every day (well, or, in any case, often). Moreover, even from school lessons in physics, everyone knows that good contact and conductivity is the key to the successful flow of electric current to all "driven" parts of your typewriter. And the purity and lack of oxidation on the terminals, to a large extent, will contribute to this. As you can remember the terminals from the battery, and even the child will cope with the process itself. The main thing in this business is to abide care and the correct sequence of actions, so that you did not hit the current. And the blow to the current is still the smallest problem: Spark, quite, may and fire provoke. Therefore, in addition to the rules of personal security, it is necessary to observe and fire-fighting - not to lay the washed rags around the battery and especially newspapers and paper.
Sequence Action Action Opening Part of the battery search - I think if the car is not the first day you already, you also know where it is. If the battery is covered with a lid (factory or homemade), it must be removed. If the machine is grounded - the ground is turned off first. Many disputes around the sequence of shutdown terminals. What is first removed, plus or minus? Definite minus! Turning off the negative terminal, you leave the "mass" without potential. So even a random touch of a positive closure terminal will not cause. After turning off, if the "plus" is open (lost "native" cover), it must be wrapped with a cloth or put on a plastic cap from a bottle with a detergent - then it's not exactly pulling until you take off with "Minus". The nut on the "mass" is weakened, after which the terminal is removed. If she managed to fuck, her slightly loosened by a wrench. Then from the factory lid (or improvised shell) is released and "plus" is removed. Although the negative terminal has already been removed, it is still better to try not to touch at the same time "plus" and something metallic under the hood - as you know, and uncharged rifle can shoot.
Processing the contact of the terminal with the battery was ideal, before returning them to the place you need to clean the conclusions. For this, they fall asleep with ordinary food soda. The same is done with terminals. A special brush is taken - it is sold in any auto shop and worth a penny, and in the farm thing is very useful. If you have no such - buy sure. It looks like a two-piece consisting of two parts: one with a rigid "pile", the second is a narrow, inverting into any gaps. Laziness to buy such a useful tool - boast an old toothbrush. True, she has a bristle too soft, so it will have to melt longer. The brush is considered to be all unnecessary from the terminals and conclusions, after which they are washed with distilled water - it is more convenient to use the spray gun. It is possible, in principle, it is possible to use conventional water, but salts can be formed from it if you are not well removed moisture. When the desired degree of purity is achieved, all drops are wiped with clean rags, and the terminals and conclusions are lubricated with anti-corrosion. What exactly - choose to you, but at least technical vaseline should be broken.
The reverse collechant terminals on the conclusions wear in the reverse order - all of the same safety reasons. First, the "plus" is put on and is naked with a nut. When its free move ends, it reaches the key. The main thing is not to overdo it in order not to thwart the threads. Then the defense is put on the terminal. With her loss, most people are wrapped with a cloth terminal. In our opinion, it is not too reasonable, because the fabric is easily flammable. Therefore, it is better to cut off the strip of rubber and secure it with a piece of wire - until you reach the place where the lid can be bought. Then it is worn and a negative terminal is fixed - in the same way: until the end of the free move, the nut is screwed by hand, then it is cordially carried by the key. If there is a common protective cover, it is put in place, all tools are removed from the hood. The rags you used are emitted - it can be in electrolyte. I will recommend to carry out such a procedure more often, as you remove the terminals from the battery and return them to the place - it's not a protracted thing at all, but it can prevent very serious problems. Do not be lazy to look under the hood at least once a month.

Why engine does not start

Possible malfunctions The engine in part of its launch can be divided into three groups:
  1. The engine does not twist.
  2. The engine twists, but does not start.
  3. The engine is badly started.

The starter does not twist the engine (the crankshaft does not turn)

Possible cause of malfunction Check (diagnostics) of malfunction Methods for solving a malfunction
Battery discharged Battery voltage (AKB) is below 6-8V (see Checking AKB). Cod appears with a hood. Charge ankb, or replace the Akb to a new one (see which battery you choose).
Bad contact on battery terminals (loose landing or oxidation) When the starter is turned on, the voltage in the on-board network drops sharply (the control lamps goes out), and on the terminals of the battery, the voltage does not change voltage during startup. Cod appears with a hood. Tighten the wires on the bank terminals, clean the terminals.
Crankshaft jammed, hinged units Check the ease of rotation of the crankshaft, the pulleys of the generator and the cooling system pump. Repair DVS, generator, replace the pump.
Damaged gear of the starter coupling or teeth of the winthide flywheel Visual inspection. Replace starter or flywheel.
The chain of the retractor starter relay (opening, oxidation, weakened tips) is faulty, the contacts "30" and "50" ignition switch are not closed. When you turn the key to the "Starter" position, the retractor relay does not work (no click under the hood). Check if the voltage is supplied to the control of the traction relay. Clean and adhere to the tips of the wires. Replace the ignition switch or its contact part.
Circuit or opening in the retractor winding of the starter relay. Singing anchor relay (skewers, contamination, corrosion, etc.) When you turn the key to the "Starter" position, the retractor relay does not work (no clock under the hood), and the voltage is fed to the control pin of the retractor relay. Remove the starter, relay and check out the work. Replace the retractor relay.
The contacts of the retracting relay or wires are oxidized When you turn on the starter, a click under the hood is heard, but the anchor of the starter does not rotate. Check the resistance of the "Akb - Starter" chain. Tighten the tips of the wires, replace the relay.
Forecasting collector, hanging brushes or their wear Remove the starter and check the force of pressing the brushes to the collector, their residual height and collector wear. Repair starter, or its replacement.
Open or closure in anchor winding The closure is checked by an ohmmeter, or by darkening isolation. Replace starter.
Open or closure in the retaining winding of the starter relay When you turn on the starter from under the hood, crackle is distributed. Akb voltage within the normal range. The relay is checked by an ohmmeter, or by its excessive heating. Replace the retractor starter relay.
Slug clutch free move When the starter is turned on, the anchor rotates, and the flywheel is immobile. Replace the coupling or starter.
The gear of the crown turns on the flywheel When the starter is turned on, the toothed crown of the flywheel rotates, the flywheel is immobile. Screech, howl by the clutch crankcase. Replace flywheel.

The crankshaft turns the starter, but the engine does not start

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Oxidation of battery terminals: reasons how to clean and protect

The charged rechargeable battery is a confident engine start and the error-free operation of the electronic devices on the trip. In this case, the power supply must not only be charged, but also to properly distribute the charge level.

Energy fits and departs from the battery through two terminals, which constantly when the engine is running under the action of electric current. Terminals are made of lead, and in the acidic medium they can be covered with a layer of oxide. This leads to the fact that the connection of the battery with other elements of the car loses reliability. It must be restored as quickly as possible, for which it will be necessary to clean the terminals from the oxide formed and protect them from the manifestations of the chemical reaction to the future.

Causes of the oxidation of the battery terminals

If the white flare was formed on the terminals of the battery, it should be removed not only in the shortest possible time, but also to establish the cause that leads to the oxidation of contacts. The most common reasons for the oxidation of the battery terminals are most common:


Please note that tightening the battery terminal with excessive force should not be - this can lead to deformation of the terminals themselves or the appearance of cracks on the battery. If the battery terminals were oxidized due to a bad connection, they need to be cleaned, also remove the white flare from the electrode, and then set the terminal to the place and fasten to consolidate so that in the future there was no such problem.


Whatever the problem contributes to the oxidation of the battery terminals, first of all it is necessary to remove the white flare, and after deciding the cause of its formation.

How to remove white raid on battery terminals

White raid on the terminals of the battery is the oxidic lead, which needs to be erased so that the electrode and contact can again interact with each other. Since both elements of the chain are solid metal surfaces, they can simply be cleared, without observing the special rules and without fearing to damage. To do this is used:

  1. Sandpaper. This method Simple, there are practically emery paper, and it is perfectly erased by oxidation. Before starting the process of stripping the terminal and electrode, do not forget to completely turn off the engine and pull the key from the ignition lock. After that, you can proceed to stripping. It is better to use sandpaper with a large grain so that the work does not stretch for dozens of minutes. Clearing the terminal and the electrode is needed to a brilliant state.
  2. Petrol. A less convenient way of stripping terminals and an electrode from a white plaque. Gasoline is well corrosive oxides, but the problem is that it can get on plastic or rubber components, and this will affect their strength. If you decide to clean the battery terminals with gasoline, moisten them with a rag and rub to completely remove oxidation.

In automotive stores you can buy special tools that are positioned as an ideal solution for removing a white plaque with terminals and electrodes. They are a banal solvent, and it is not worth spending on the purchase of such chemistry.

How to Protect Battery Terminals from Oxidation

Eliminating the oxidation fragments from the battery and terminals, it is necessary to take action to avoid the appearance of a white plaque in the future. The most reliable option is to replace the battery, but the problem may appear again in six months or two, and constantly changing the battery is economically inexpedient.

The correct option is the isolation of the terminals from the places of possible evaporation or splashing the electrolyte on them. You can protect the lead element "Dedov's way", putting on the electrodes of felt rings, soaked with oil. If there are no similar elements at hand, in any store with automotive chemistry You can purchase a special lubricant that is applied to the terminals and prevents oxidation on them.

what are the reasons and how to fix

If the engine is the heart of the car, then the battery is a battery that gives a charge to this very heart. And the oxidation of the terminals may prevent this process. The appearance of a loose white plaque on terminals occurs as a result of a chemical lead reaction from which they are made with acid pairs that are distinguished from the battery. This process is also called electrochemical corrosion.


To the oxidation of the battery terminals, a variety of reasons may result in the mains of which will consider below

Signs of oxidation of battery terminals

One of the most explicit signs Oxidation of the terminals is not a bright, dim light of headlights, turn signals, overall lights, stop signals with good charging battery. Also about the possible oxidation of the terminals, it is worth thinking if, when you try to start a car engine, the starter does not "grab" from the first time, or scrolls the crankshaft very hard, as if the battery is very discharged, although the car owner is confident in the opposite.

Why the battery terminals are oxidized: the main reasons

  • Penetration of electrolyte on contact. This is due to weakened straightened, ajar or not fully twisted battery cork. Solution: Check the reliability of the plug twist.
  • PHYSICAL WITNESS OF THE BATTERY BATTERY. In this case, to eliminate the problem must be purchased new battery, replacing the old one.
  • Remember that the spent batteries simply should not be thrown out, they must be passed to a special organization.
  • Incorrect electrolyte density. To avoid this reason, it is necessary to maintain the battery and use the finished electrolyte, and not to breed the acid yourself.
  • Damage to the battery case, sealing disorders, as a result - electrolyte leakage, or a closure of one of the battery sections. If there is divorces on the battery near the introductory terminals, then first it is necessary to restore tightness.

On the battery, the housing of which is made of the Bakelite, should be removed from the output to serve the mastic and pour fresh.

When the battery case is made of plastic, one of the listed methods will suit: apply a heated resin on the space around the output or process the area of \u200b\u200bthe thermoclaim using a thermopystole.

Another way that can be applied and after applying mastic or resin is to use felt. To do this, it is necessary to cut two rings from the specified material, a thickness of about five millimeters, the inner hole of which should be equal to the diameter of the base of the battery output, and the external hole should exceed it to a pair of centimeters. Gaskets are wetting motor Oil, placed on the withdrawal terminals of the battery, and the tips of the wires are fixed on top.

By the way, not only felt can be used for these purposes, but also felt.

  • Another of the reasons for the formation of plaque on terminals can serve as insufficient contact between the end of the wire and the withdrawal of the battery - the water particles and the electrolyte pair penetrate, and when the electric charge passes through them, then the anode is destroyed.

Do not forget that it is necessary for a tight fit of the battery terminal with a tip, but it is strictly forbidden to pride it - this can cause rewards around the conclusions. Fasten the tip is needed tight, but not applying unnecessary effort. To do this, it is better to use two keys, one to keep the bolt, and another tighten the nut. After fixing the contact node, you can apply a lubricant layer.

  • The next reason is toasting the ventilation holes of the battery can be laminating. This leads to an increase in the pressure of the electrolyte inside the battery, and as a result, the flowing out of it through non-standard holes.

How to clean the battery terminals

From the school course of chemistry it is known that an alkaline medium is needed to dilute the acid. And this means that oxidation (acid medium) can be eliminated by food soda (alkaline medium) or a solution based on it. You can also use a carbonated drink "Coca-Cola" (this is not a joke at all, but a proven fact).

You must pull the battery, then immerse the terminals in the soda solution. At a time when you remove the acid with soda, you can observe the boiling reaction, with the release of a small amount of heat.

If the "crust" of a white plaque is thick, then first it is necessary to remove it, scraping with a knife, a piece of shallow sandpaper, a metal brush, or another sharp object. It is necessary to clearly clear the place where the electrode and the terminal contact, paying particular attention to the inner surface of the terminal. Only, it is necessary to act extremely gently, so that it would damage the insulating shell of the wire. It is also desirable to wear rubberized gloves - it will save your hands from the effects of aggressive substances. Before scraping the plaque, it is better to put the battery on the rubber mat - it will protect your floor from garbage.

Before installing the battery, perform a thorough inspection of the body, check the level, as well as the electrolyte density.

It happens that the car owners advise the use of gasoline as a solvent of oxide. To do this, wipe the benzine rags and rub terminals and electrodes until the white plaque is completely removed. Do not forget that gasoline is flammable liquid. Be careful: In addition to dissolving gasoline oxide in a state of dissolving plastic and rubber parts of the car.

Before pinning the tip, the terminal area is needed and the area inside the tip is not lubricated with a thick layer of technical vaseline, solidol, or a special silicone lubricant, acquiring it in the auto shop. By the way, the last option does not attract dirt, in contrast to the two previous ones.

Outcome

White raid on battery terminals is not a cosmetic defect, the oxidation of the terminals affects qualitative characteristics The battery works, as well as significantly reduces the term of its uninterrupted work. Do not need to pull with solving the problem of oxidation of the terminals, as this can lead to the failure of the whole electrical system car. With incorrect battery operation, an additional load on the generator is created, and this is fraught with a breakdown. To avoid deposits, and if you are not ready for constant replacement The battery, spend the above methods of combating the oxidation of the terminals regularly, in order to prevent. And then your battery thanks you a long and trouble-free service life.

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In most cases, the oxidation on the terminals of the battery is a kind of "bell" that very soon the owner of the car will have to post a certain amount of money to buy a new battery. If the required amount is not yet available, at first you can do with simple oxidation removal.

Deleting oxidation on terminals

In order to remove the white oxidation flyer, you can use an ordinary metal brush (with a metal, stainless pile) or sandpaper. It should be remembered that the lead from which the battery terminal consists is quite fragile material, so it is necessary to clean the contacts carefully to damage them.

Some motorists purify problem terminals with a cloth moistened in gasoline. This method is very effective, but requires marginal caution when working with flammable liquid.

So that oxidation is not formed again

Even on very carefully cleaned terminals of the battery, the white oxidation raid can be formed again, so we must try not to provide him with such an opportunity. Based on the fact that the main reason for the formation of plaque is the effect of electrolyte on the lead base of contacts (the battery breakdown is facilitated), it is necessary to isolate contacts.

It is possible to effectively protect the contacts of the battery from the harmful effects of the electrolyte using the old, "grandfather" method. To do this, cut two washers with a diameter of about 25-30 mm from ordinary felt and impregnate them in machine oil. Then you need to wear one puck on the battery terminal and install the car on-board network terminal. The second puck should be fixed on top of the onboard contact of the car.

A solidol or technical vaseline can be used as an isolation of the AKB terminal. If finance allows you to purchase a special spray for these goals to protect batteries or a popular tool called "Lubricant-protection of a corrosion battery terminal". In the people, the word "Electrobr" is used to name this fund.

Other reasons for plating on terminals

The battery breakdown is not the only cause of the problem that has arisen, albeit the most common. White plaque can be formed and in effect of a vehicle working capacity, which may appear due to insufficiently reliable contact with the batteries of the AKB.

Also, oxidation can be formed due to clogging of the ventilation openings of the battery or overwhelmed battery mounting.

To avoid such a problem, you should periodically view the contacts, and if necessary, clean. However, simply cleaning the terminals does not always solve the problem, so it is better to look for the main cause of oxidation.

Causes of the oxidation of the battery terminals

If you have such a problem, first of all you should find the reason why the terminals are oxidized on the car battery. There may be several reasons:

  1. The development of the battery resource when the seal rods have already fucked.
  2. Leakage of the filled electrolyte. The reason that meets most often. Since the electrolyte is an acid and its contacts to contact with the reaction, which results in the oxidation process.
  3. Electrolite having invalid density readings. To avoid such situations, when it is replaced, only the finished composition should be used. It is not recommended to extract the components to the established proportions.
  4. Tightening terminals. A loose fastening of the electrode on the terminal gives a bad contact, causing the reaction. This situation can be corrected by cleaned the electrode and the terminal. To install everything and tighten well, but you should not overdo it, because there is a possibility to rip fasteners.

Experienced drivers have repeatedly encountered this problem, so they can easily explain why a plus or minus battery terminal is oxidized.

Most often oxidized minus battery terminal. The main cause of oxides is the battery wear. Microcracks begin to appear in its case, of which the electrolyte is actively becoming, whose pairs turn into oxides.

In this case, the negative terminal must be periodically cleaned to the brilliance, although most drivers remove only oxides, not a touch lead. It is incorrect because if the contacts are unscrewed, they must be treated in the most thorough way.

Why oxidizes a plus terminal on the battery? There are just two answers:

  1. The systematic reload of the battery, as a result of which the electrolyte is overheated and starts to evaporate.
  2. Somewhere there was a violation of the tightness of the ACB hull, which requires operational intervention in the situation, since acid over time may even pass the case.

Oxidation terminals of battery - symptoms and signs

One of the most obvious and common signs of oxidation of the terminals is dim, not bright light of headlights, overall lights, stop signals, turn signals with complete charging of the battery. Also possible is the oxidation of the terminal in the event that, if necessary, you do not "grab" from the first time, or very hard scrolls the crankshaft, as if the battery is discharged, although in reality it is not so.

How and what to clean the terminals of the battery

White raid on the terminals of the battery is a oxidized lead, which needs to be erased for the interaction of the electrode and contact. Since these elements of the chain are metal surfaces, they are intensively cleaned, without fearing to damage and without observing the special rules.

There are many ways to clean the battery terminals. It is possible to easily and efficiently remove the white flare as chemical reagents available in the trading network and undergraduate means. The most efficient and accessible are the following methods:

  • Sandpaper. Before cleaning the terminals and electrode, turn off the engine and remove the key from the ignition lock. So that this process does not occupy a lot of time, for these purposes it is better to use sandpaper with the largest grain size. This method is quite simple, and the sandpaper perfectly erases the tracks of oxidation and eat almost everyone. It is necessary to clean the electrode and terminal to a brilliant state.
  • To remove the residual acid remnants from the terminals, the soda solution can be used. If the acid has in contact with the metal, small bubbles will appear during the processing of the terminals. The ratio of soda and water: 1 tbsp. Spoon on a glass. After washing with such a solution, it is necessary to remove the remnants of soda with the terminals, it is enough to wipe them with a wet cloth.
  • Petrol. A less convenient method of stripping the electrode and terminals from oxidation. Gasoline is good and quickly corrupt the oxides, however, there is a chance to get into rubber or plastic components, which can negatively affect their strength. If you decide to clean the terminals in this way, it is necessary to moisten the rag with a gasoline and carefully rub the terminals until complete removal of oxidation traces.

Important! To clean the terminals and electrical contacts, it is extremely undesirable to apply WD tools. In addition to the oil, they contain aggressive conductive cleaning products of an unknown for the buyer of the composition. Also cannot be used acetone because it eats even metals.

Effective battery terminals

1) Litol, solidol. To protect terminals from aggressive impact, solid lubricants - solidol or lithol, which are took-conducting, were used as the main materials. As a result of the processes of expansion of contacts, under the temperature effect, these lubricants penetrate into the cross-stroke zone, and over time, almost in all cavities of the contact area.

Moreover, in the process of natural wear, as well as with substantial temperature differences, the technical characteristics of solidol and lithol change - they solidify. If you decide to apply a litol or solidol recommended: when working on the contact of the contact twice a year, it is necessary full replacement Lubricants (removal of old, applying new).

2) Silicone grease. Ideal for processing terminals and electrical connections. However, when purchasing it, it is necessary to pay attention to that there are no conductive additives in the composition (as a rule, manufacturers are warned).

Such a lubricant not only delays the impact of the aggressive environment, but also pushes it. The processing of the battery terminals occurs solely in the integrated use with other preventive materials. It makes it on a pure treated surface, after which they start connecting parts.

This lubricant has one disadvantage, meaningful to processing the battery terminals - fluidity. Silicone lubrication with time leaves contact and when it is used, it is necessary to regularly injure.

3) Special means. Now there are a lot of funds designed specifically for the processing of the battery terminals. There are detailed instructions on their tubes. Undoubtedly, such funds are better than using solidol or other dubious substances. They are based on a protective oil medium and, as a rule, it is a vaseline oil. How to lubricate the battery terminals so that they do not oxidize - the choice of car owner. All means and the above methods are equally good, it remains only to choose the most acceptable.

Service AKB

In order for the oxidation of the battery terminals, it was the reason for the sudden stop of the vehicle, the following works should be performed regularly:

  • external examination of the surface and contacts of the battery once a month;
  • when traces discovery on the terminals of oxidation, immediately check the tightness of the battery;
  • in the warm season, in the servants serviced once a month, control the level of electrolyte;
  • once every 3-4 months (in summer and in winter more often) wipe the surface of the battery with dry wind;
  • before starting the winter season, it is necessary to check the status of the terminals (how much they heat up during the start of the engine "on the cold"), even if there is a slight heating, you should check the contacts and make them additional processing.

It should be remembered that in the cold season, one of the common causes of the engine start failure are the problems associated with the battery. Often this reason is precisely in the oxidation of the battery terminals. Protection of the battery terminals from oxidation is an important process, so regular control and preventive measures will help to avoid such a situation.

The habit of lubricating the terminals of batteries from oxidation was inherited from our grandparents.

Let's try to figure out how effective this measure of protection is whether it is worth applying it on modern car batteries at all.

Why the battery terminals are oxidized

It is not entirely true to call the process of formation of an extraneous flying and other manifestations of the destruction of the surface and contacts of the battery terminals purely oxidation. In general, this is a combination of several chemical processes. We define the main.

Natural oxidation

All substances in the air, where many oxygen, come into the oxidation process, or oxidation. Lead, namely from it the battery terminals are made, from this point of view, it is not very good to oxidation, there are more "weak" metals, take the same copper.

However, the non-oxidized lead (brilliant) we can only observe during the stripping of the battery contacts. After a few minutes, she starts to darken, that is, oxidize.

In the natural oxidation of the lead, there is nothing terrible, the lead oxide film is very thin, it is easy to destroy, slightly stirring the terminal. In addition, to allow 100% protection against oxygen is almost impossible, except by placing the battery in the barocamera. Even thick lubricants, like Tosol and solidol, paste oxygen particles.

Acid destruction

This type of chemical reaction leads to the formation of a "snowy" white plaque on the battery terminals. In addition to not quite aesthetic species, the plaque makes an additional transitional resistance at the point of contact, leads to the destruction of the terminals, may be the cause of leaks.

Where does the acid come from? In most cases from the battery. Served batteries have technological holes for filling electrolyte and control its level.

Video - What to do if the battery terminals are oxidized:

Almost all car batteries are equipped with a gas feed system. If the data zones are notchive (the gas trap is always, if the gas feeding tube is not connected to it), during operation, the electrolyte vapor will be released.

This is especially manifested in the warm season, although under the hood of the car it comes even in winter after twenty minutes of movement.

It is even more terrible in terms of an acid emission process of overheating of the battery, especially boiling. This is possible in the following cases:

  • destruction of plates of battery elements;
  • short circuit of banks of the battery;
  • wrong (reload);
  • lack of natural cooling AKB in the warm season.

The appearing white raid on the battery terminals is lead chloride. This is a rather aggressive environment, especially for electrical connections. If you do not delete it in time, it "will eat" contact for a couple of months, and in such a way that it may not be subject to restoration.

Salt destruction

Russian roads still sprinkle sodium and potassium salts in winter. The composition of modern funds from icing is an industrial mystery, at least for car enthusiasts.

But all the mixtures in the composition with water vapors and impurities of other substances located on the road, ultimately, envelop all parts of the car, including the contacts of the battery.

Salt plus water is an excellent electrolyte, and where there is electrolyte, metals and electrical stress, there is an electrolysis process. He slowly destroys metal parts.

It is not possible to destroy the massive battery terminal with electrolysis, but it is possible to make a change in the contact zone.

Cleaning as a method of struggle

The easiest and most reliable method is timely removal of the plaque, cleaning the battery terminals.

Technical Council: Whatever you facilitates battery terminals, no less often than once every six months (better at the borders of the winter and summer seasons), clean the terminals mechanically.

It will save you from problems with the start of the engine, leakage processes and the heating of contacts. In order to cleanse them, you need to unscrew the crimp bolts, it is better to completely disconnect the terminals. Then moisten their alcohol-containing liquid and wipe dry.

If there is no one, you can use a solvent, diluted with water. So more fireproof, besides, the aggressiveness of the solvent is reduced.

To remove with the terminals, possible residues of the appeared acid, it is necessary to use a soda solution (a tablespoon of soda on a glass of water). If the acid really came into contact with the metal, in the process of treatment with a sponge moistened in solution, small bubbles will appear. After washing with a soda solution, it is necessary to wipe the terminals with a wet cloth.

In no case should not be used WD to clean. In addition to oil, they contain conductive aggressive cleaning agents of an unknown composition for the consumer of the composition. For processing electrical contacts WD-products are extremely undesirable.

Also cannot be used to process electrical contacts acetone, it eats even metals.

Next, cleaning is carried out with shallow sandwich, it is possible on a paper basis. The preliminary processing of highly polluted terminals can be made by a metal brush. There are special brushes for sale for such work.

Video - How to Clean the Battery Terminals:

The ideal result of work is a brilliant surface, not necessarily perfectly smooth. Lead soft material, so at the time of the crimping terminals contacts the maximum contact will receive.

After carrying out mechanical work There is a natural question about cleaning: how to maintain the perfect state of contacts in the period between regulatory work? The answer is simple: to protect with the help of various terminals from aggressive substances.

For this, various lubricants and other materials are used.

How to lubric battery terminals from oxidation

Litol, Solidol

Solid lubricants were published as basic materials to protect against aggressive chemical impact: Litol, solidol, fatty lubrication.

To protect the battery terminals, mainly solidol or lithol was used. These are drive-cutting lubricants.

As a result of the processes of temperature expansion of contacts and mechanical compounds, these lubricants gradually penetrate into the cross-contact zone. Over time, it penetrates almost all internal cavities of the contact area.

In addition, at large temperature drops, as well as in the process of natural wear, the technical characteristics of litol and solidol change: they solidify. As a result, it is simultaneously possible a disruption of electrical contact.

Recommendations to those who decided to use Litol or Solidol: when carrying out regulatory work on the cleaning of contact (at least two times a year), a complete replacement of lubricant is required, i.e. Removing the old and applying a new lubricant.

Silicone Grease

Great lubricant in all respects for processing electrical connections. But only when it is purchased, you should pay attention to it to be without conductive additives (manufacturers usually warn on the bottle).

Lubricant is characterized by the fact that it does not just delay the aggressive media, she repels them. It's like a fur coat that pushes the cold.

For processing battery terminals, lubricant is suitable only for complex use with other materials. It is applied to the treated clean surfaces, then begin to mechanically connect the parts.

The main lack of lubricant in terms of processing batteries terminals - fluidity. Over time, silicone grease leaves contact.

If you use silicone lubricant, it is necessary to regularly produce it injecting, then the lubricant does not fall into place from the check-in zone. A little troublesome.

Graphite lubricant

Some motorists used graphite lubricant to handle contacts, justifying its use by conductive properties. However, this lubricant has a high resistivity and in the absence of metal electrical contact terminals, having skipping a high current through itself, can lead to heating and even ignition.

Apply graphite lubricant for processing drive terminals it is impossible!!!

Special means

Now there are many funds specifically designed to handle the terminals of automotive batteries. We will not describe the benefits of using concrete brands, manufacturers with this themselves do well.

Video - what can lubricate the battery terminals so that they do not oxidize (MS-1710 tool):

On tubes of these processing tools, there are instructions for their use. Of course, such funds are better than the Dedovsky solidol, although they are also based on an oil medium, as a rule, vaseline oil.

Very comfortable lubricants in the form of spray.

The process of applying protective funds for contacts AKB

Deciding with the material for the protective coating, proceed to applying it. To do this, first produce mechanical cleaning (see above).

After the terminals are cleaned, it is better to pre-process the contact zones with silicone lubrication.

Which is better? Here, the opinions of auto electricians diverge. In favor of the first, the fact that under the terminal in any case has air cavities, if the lubricant will fall into these places, it will only be better.

However, if you do frequent disconnection of the terminals, for example, to recharge the battery, it is better for the lubrication terminals not to apply.

When using branded lubricants, the instruction will indicate how to apply them.

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