Resistance to the anchor of the generator VAZ 2110. How to check the generator for performance in various ways. Measurement of the output voltage

The problem of the generator as the main source of electricity in the car - the formation and maintenance of voltage at a certain level, regardless of the level of load on the on-board network.

A fully operational unit must issue 13-14.5 volts.

The stability stability is supported by an electronic regulator relay, which is in most cases embedded directly to the generator. Its failure abruptly limits the possibilities of operation of the machine: in this case, the only energy source will remain the battery, which will soon be discharged. What breakdowns happen to this device, how to check the generator and what causes damage, it is described below.

Signs of the malfunction of the generator

Full or partial device failure can be determined by the following features:

1. The warning lamp on the instrument panel, usually made in the form of an image of the battery, starts flashing or burning constantly. This suggests that the battery is not charged or the current is not sufficient.
2. Permanent faults in electrical equipment: unstable work Outdoor and internal lighting when the lamps are burning brighter, then dim, heating with the engine center (if the motor is muted, then everything functions normally). By the way, problems with lighting can be observed and if necessary.
3. The rechargeable battery is constantly and often discharged.
4. In the cabin or pumpapot space there is a grown smell.
5. From the generator side, a whistle is heard or overly loud rustle.
6. The generator is greatly buzzing when working: a diode bridge or stator winding is faulty.

The emergence of the above signs indicates the need for immediate diagnostics. But how to check the generator yourself? If you can handle a multimeter, then the diagnostics can be carried out without contacting the car service. However, you first need to decide on the character of the breakage. Damage can be both electrical and mechanical.

Malfunctions of the generator and the cause of its failure

First a little about the design of the device. The main components of the generator are the stator (fixed element), the rotor (spinning part), brushes, the block of the built-in relay regulator, the diode bridge and the housing with bearings.

And now - about the most characteristic faults:

1. Bearing jamming. This problem most often arises from a generator for a long time in operation. Dirt, dust, moisture gradually make their own business: As a result, the bearings are jammed, the device rotor ceases to spin and the drive belt is broken. There is a nuance here: sometimes a complete stop of the generator does not occur - its "twisted". In this case, a characteristic whistle will be heard, indicating elevated friction in the collapsed bearings. When replacing these elements, it is recommended to put two new ones at once (in the rear and the front of the generator lid).
2. Combustion, intersless closure of rotary or stator winding. The reasons for this malfunction are also not distinguished by the originality: it is moisture and salt on the roads, which in the "pair" erupted the lacquer insulation of the windings, resulting in a closure and ultimately burning wires.
3. Breakdown or wear brushes. According to the design, they are graphite square or rectangular products in contact with copper tracks (contact rings) of the stator. Most often brushes wear out, less often - break. Sometimes their performance can be determined visually: put the machine into a dark garage and let the engine pre-opening the hood. Sparkling inside the generator indicates the worniness of the brushes.
4. Voltage regulator faults. it the electronic unit, whose task is to maintain a voltage at one level, to ensure the arrival of the rated current on the battery and prevent its recharging (which leads to the bulging of the electrolyte).
5. Faults of the rectifier block. It consists of several electronic components forming a diode bridge. When it fails at least one of them, the current stops straightening, the operation of the voltage regulator stops: the onboard network begins to eat only from the battery, the resource of which is limited.

How to check the battery charging and generator performance by multimeter

To carry out this procedure, it is not necessary to have a professional tester: a conventional multimeter is suitable, in which there are modes of measuring the resistance (ohmmeter) and voltage. First you need to measure on disabled Engine. Fit the probe multimeter to the battery terminals: the tester should show at least 12.5 volts (with a normally charged battery).

Now start the car and, not including any consumer, measure the voltage again: it must be in the range of 13.8-14.5 V. At the next stage, you will need to connect the load to the on-board network: the heater full power, multimedia, headlights ( far light), fog and heated rear glass. Look at the device: with a serviceable generator, the voltage will drop to 13.7-14 V. If the value is below, you will have to test the generator. The following describes how to check the generator and its components without removing the device from the car.

Voltage regulator

The purpose of this block (some is called it "chocolate" or "tablet") embedded in the generator - stabilization of onboard voltage. To check the generator by a multimeter along with the regulator, the latter is not necessary to remove from the machine. It will be necessary to carry out the operation described above: i.e. measure the battery voltage with a muted and engine running. Deviation from the norm in a smaller side indicates a malfunction or voltage regulator or generator. But the exceeding parameter of 14.5 volts indicates the failure of the relay, which is fraught with constant boiling of the AKB. To more accurately check the voltage regulator, you need to remove it. It is not difficult and dismantling can be made directly on the installed generator: it is enough to unscrew the 2-3 screws (the number depends on the car model). Next steps:

• disconnect the plus terminal from the battery;
• take the regulator and to its terminal (where the thin wire is connected from the generator) Connect the "+" battery, minus attach to the second relay contact ("mass");
• to the voltage controller brushes using wiring, connect any automotive lamp designed for 12 V;
• its glow will indicate the serviceability of the block.

Checking the diode bridge without removing it from the machine

The function of this unit is to straighten the variable for conversion to permanent. The bridge most often includes 6 semiconductor diodes. Three of them spend current only one way, three to another. To check the generator by a multimeter and at the same time the integrity of the diodes, it will be necessary to remove the wires attached to the voltage regulator, the generator. Do not forget the test "-" from the battery. Switch the tester in the resistance range. The positive probe (it has a red shade) of the device to join the "30" generator terminal (the fastest cable comes here, stretched from the battery), minus (black) - to the body ("mass") of the device.

If the diode bridge is working, then the testimony of the tester is infinitely large resistance. If it is somehow, then the rectifier needs to be changed.

Checking diodes by a multimeter on a dismantled and disassembled generator

The bridge includes a pair of aluminum plates: one of them is "minus", the second "plus". Take the tester and one of its probe to the plate, and the second touch the contacts of the diodes fixed on the plate. The device should show infinity or resistance (usually a few kiloma). Then change the probe: there must be the opposite picture. The same is done with the second plate. If at some diode, the testimony will be zero, it means that it breaks and it must be replaced. If all diodes show a certain resistance, and one of them is infinity, this means a break: the electronic component also needs to be replaced.

Checking the rotor windings

When the generator brushes are not worn and their length is 4.5 mm and more, and the diode bridge is intact, you can proceed to the rotor check. For this, the generator will have to remove and disassemble. The dismantled device must be divided into two parts, filming the mounting bolts. On one of them you will see the shaft on which copper contact rings are fixed. How to check the generator in this case? It is necessary to simply set the measuring device into an ohmmeter mode with the measurement limit of 50-100 ohms and put each appliance probe to the contact rings. The arrow (or appears the numbers) of the multimeter will deviate up to 2-5 ohms. If it is higher, then this is a sign of unreliable contact between rings (a bad soldering of the winding conclusions are possible). With a smaller resistance, an emergency closure of windings is obvious.

For sure to make sure that the rotor state is worth spending another check. The contact rings should be applied to the voltage of 12 volts from the battery, connect the tester into the rupture of the minus or possessive wire, setting it into the current force measurement mode (observe the polarity of the device's probe connections). Its value must be in the range of 3-4.5 A. The higher current of the current indicates the intersensional closure of the windings. It is possible to determine their inoperability and cleanly visually: this will tell you the dark color of the wires and the smell of Gary.

Checking insulation resistance

It will take 220 volts and the lamp designed for this voltage. Connect one wire to any contact ring, the second to the rotor housing. With a whole and unlocked winding, the light will not burn light bulb. If its burning is observed or even a little weak glow, the winding will have to be replaced (rewind in the profile workshop) or change.

Checking stator windings

This procedure also requires a generator dismantling followed by its disassembly. This part of the device has several windings, so you have to check each. First, disconnect the wires leading from the diode bridge to the windings (perhaps you will need a soldering iron). Later:

1. Switch the measuring device into an ohmmeter mode, to the minimum limit - usually it is 1 (which is better) or 10 ohms. All measurements are recommended to carry out a more accurate digital device.
2. Connect the tester probe alternately to the windings conclusions. The device must "issue" almost 0.2 Ohm.
3. Test the resistance between one of the conversions of the coil and "zero" (shared wire) of the stator. Normal tester reading - 0.3 Ohm.
4. Still check the integrity of isolation. One wire connected to the household outlet 220 V, connect to the rotor housing, the second - through a conventional filament lamp with a power of 25-40 W, included in series to the winding terminal. If the latter has no defects (insulation does not break), the lamp will not light up.

At the same time, carefully inspect the "insides" of the stator and the rotor: traces of contact are not allowed here. If they are, it speaks about wear of bearings or sleeves, which confirms the "abnormal" noise published by the generator on the engine center. By the way, if it can be a sign of several faults at once.

Verification of the generator and contact rings brushes

Their performance is determined visually. The minimum length of these products is 4.5 mm (new - 8-10 mm). The main reason for the failure of the brushes is their long-term operation. Sometimes they quickly wear and even break due to the skew of the rotor shaft, which is associated with the factory marriage or deformation of the device due to, for example, an accident. The brush node is most often constructively combined with a voltage relay, so the extraction of this block is possible without dismantling the generator. But buying the entire block assembly: relay-controller and brush holder.

The diameter of the new current collecting rings is 14.2-14.4 mm. The minimum value of 12.8 mm is allowed. These products can be freely purchased in the auto shop.

For replacement, drop contact wires from the winding and dismantle the rings by the puller. New, before installing, you can handle the sandpaper on the lathe: this will eliminate the beyon associated with surface irregularities, and eliminates burrs.

Generator bearings wear

To replace them, the generator must be removed from the machine and disassemble as described below:

• remove the back cover (usually it is made of plastic), folding the clamps or byverting the screws;
• disconnect the brush knot, combined with the regulator;
• remove the diode bridge by unscrewing 3 screws;
• remove the metal back cover located under the plastic and pull out the stator;
• pull out the rotor and clamp it in vice to remove the pulley, by reloading the nut of its fastening to the shaft;
• the front cover remove along with the bearing: according to the manufacturer's company, it should be replaced assembly.

If you still decide to replace the bearing separately, take the electric drill with a drill with a diameter of 4 mm and drill the cover in the location of the crank. Select the old bearing, insert a new and turn it out. The rear bearing is easier: it is enough to use the puller with two legs. Some car models generator is intimidrate: the stator winding is soldered to the lid. Then you have to unwind the wires to extract the stator. When choosing a bearing, it is worth paying attention to the cost of them, as a rule, below, and the quality may not give up the original.

It often happens that the generator ceases to function only on a heated engine. A similar phenomenon is due to the natural expansion of the metal with an increase in temperature or by changing the properties of semiconductors (diodes) for the same reason. In this case, the control of the generator's performance is first worth spending on a heated car, and if it did not bring results, the device dismantle and check, pre-heating with its construction hairdryer. In conclusion, it is worth noting that independent replacement Such components of the generator, as a stator or rotary winding, bearing for living conditions are appropriate only if there are appropriate equipment, tools, as well as experience. If it is not, then in the absence of battery charging, limit yourself to an attempt to replace the relay controller, combined with the brush node. To do this, it is not necessary to buy a new device: you can deliver obviously good and evaluate the result.

The generator is the main power source for the onboard network of the car. The automotive generator is obliged to issue a strictly normalized voltage value, regardless of the load on the on-board network (there is a standard load, without powerful external consumers). The voltage of the generator during operation in the car in the overwhelming majority should be 13 ... 14.5 V. The design has been developed for a long time ago and the indigenous changes have not occurred since then, therefore the unified diagnostic technique allows you to identify any generators.

Appearance automobile generator

Some subtleties of checking at home may vary depending on the model, but the basis is the same everywhere.

Car generator device

Any generator consists of the following parts:

Automobile generator device

The fixed part of the generator, the stator, has a multiphase winding (4) and serves as a voltage source in the car. As a rule, it has three windings connected by the star. The rotor (2) rotates inside the stator, on which the excitation winding is wound. Changing voltage on this winding, you can adjust the output voltage of the generator. This is engaged in a special device, relay - regulator.

Most modern generators have a built-in voltage regulator (5), which is attached to the stator and has terminals for connecting voltage and graphite brushes for contact with the current excitation winding rings. Bearings (1) and (3) are designed to ensure the ease of rotation and centering of the rotor inside the stator. The stator winding during operation gives an alternating voltage, so the car generator is equipped with rectifying diodes, which are made on a separate panel and are attached to the stator housing. Because the windings are three, then six diodes are used for straightening (three-phase bridge straightening scheme).

The automotive generator shaft is fastened with a pulley for transmitting the rotational torque from the engine. The stator together with the side covers is a single design and is attached to the engine housing with the possibility of adjusting the position.

Major faults

Below are the main faults in the order of the frequency of their occurrence:

• weakening of the tension of the belt of the generator;
• failure failure;
• wear or sticking brushes;
• break or closure of windings;
• time of rectifier diodes.

The need to diagnose the generator occurs in the event of a non-compliance of the on-board network voltage in the car required value, or its complete absence. It often happens that at low load, the voltage is normal, and with an increase in current consumed, the voltage drops. Before checking the car generator, first of all it is required to check the tension of the generator belt. To check it is enough to press the belt with your finger and measure the magnitude of the deflection. It should be no more than 10 ... 15 mm.

The larger deflection will lead to the fact that with increasing load on the generator, the friction force between the belt and the pulley will be insufficient for full transmission rotational torque from the engine, and the belt will slip. The adjusting screw needs to push the stator of the generator from the engine. If the belt tension is normal, then the car generator requires a deeper check.

Increasing the voltage during the engine operation may indicate a voltage regulator fault.

Checking the automotive generator

To check the generator in the car at home, a measuring device is required - a tester in which there are functions for measuring voltage and resistance. Now the most common and have low cost digital testers (Fig. Below).

Digital tester for measuring in electrical equipment

Such an appliance is enough to carry out almost any measurements in the electrical equipment of the car. In addition, the performance of devices is carried out without the polarity of the probe connection.

Some measurements are carried out with the engine running.

The operation of the generator in this case is verified only with the connected battery. Without battery, the voltage regulator normally function will not function, and in the onto the car network of the car will come overshadowed, which will certainly lead to failure on-board controller And other electronics.

Below will be described how to check the generator multimeter. First of all, it is necessary to measure the voltage on the terminals of the battery with a tester with a non-working engine. After the engine is running, the voltage should increase and make a nominal value, which means charging rechargeable battery. Otherwise you need to dismantle the generator and its full check. You can check the car generator and without removing it from the car, but this technique varies significantly depending on the brand of the car and the generator.

Checking the dismantled generator includes:

• visual inspection on the subject of isolation isolation, wiring, brushes;
• checking the resistance of the stator and rotor windings;
• performance of rectifier diodes;
• the performance of the voltage regulator (relay - regulator).

After examining the removed generator, first of all it is necessary to make sure that there are no mechanical damage to the windings, reliability of terminal compounds, the integrity of the discovets of diodes. The relay controller brushes must move freely in their guides and do not have chips.

The current excitation ringing rings on the rotor shaft should not have burrs and burning traces. Strong nagar and traces of the burnt metal on the rings indicate a short closure between the turns of the rotor winding.

The windings of the stator and the rotor are checked by an ohmmeter. The resistance of the windings should be several Ohm. The excitation winding is checked by measuring the resistance between the current collecting rings on the rotor shaft. Normal resistance should be 5 ... 10 ohms. The stator winding is checked only after disconnecting all terminals. There should be three free wires on the winding (on new generators) or four (output from the connection point of the windings on old generators). The car stator must have winding resistance within 5-15 ohms between the beginning of the winding and the point of the connection and 10..30 ohms between the ends of the adjacent windings. Here the main thing is that the stator has the same value when measuring all three windings. The difference in more than 20% speaks of a malfunction of one of the windings.

When measuring small values \u200b\u200bof resistance, the probe is made error. For accuracy, you must first move the probe among themselves and determine their resistance. It usually is 0.2 ... 1 ohms. This magnitude should be taken into account with further dimensions.

Next, it should be checked the state of the rectifier diodes. In most generators, two types of diodes are used in the car. Some of them have a negative output on the housing and positive free. Others are made on the contrary. This is done for the convenience of mounting diodes on the cooling plates - radiators (Fig. Below).

Diode car generator bridge

For measurements, it does not matter. Diodes are measured when the ommeter switch is measured to measure diodes. If there is no such position or use the arrow device, the measurement limit is set to measure the resistance of 200 ... 1000 com.

The rectifier bridge must be disconnected from the stator. The operation of the diodes is checked by comparing resistances with direct and reverse polarity of the device's probe. Values \u200b\u200bshould differ several times. An ideal case, this is when in one polarity, the instrument shows a complete break and measured values \u200b\u200bare the same for all diodes. If in both provisions, the device shows zero resistance Or his complete absence, then such a car diode bridge requires replacement.

In addition to checking resistance, it is also necessary to check the insulation status of the windings. For this, the measurement limit of the device is set to measure the maximum resistance, then one of the probe is applied to the generator housing (to the stator), and the other probe to the inspected winding. The instrument readings must show very large resistance (on the shooter should not deviate).

More accurate insulation resistance can be checked using a special device (megommeter) used to measure electrical cables or cable communication lines.

From the cartridge lamps, two wires are displayed, one of which is connected to the generator body, since the stator has a metal housing, and the second is connected to a normal household outlet. The second terminal sockets are connected to the winding checked. The lack of a lamp glow indicates the normal state of isolation.

Check voltage regulator

You can check the voltage regulator (relay-controller) using an external adjustable power supply of 12 ... 16 V (Fig. Below).

Scheme check relay regulator

To check the relay, the adjustable source is connected by a plus on the output terminal, and a minus for a mass. 12 V. Car lamp is connected to the brushes at the power supply voltage of more than 14.5 in the lamp should go out. Faulty voltage regulator requires replacement. Relay - the old type controller is subject to configuration.

Video. Fast check

Quite often, faults arise in a car on a warm engine. This can be due to both the linear expansion of the metal on temperature (closure of windings) and the properties of semiconductors (malfunction of the rectifier diodes). In this case, you can recommend the operation of the generator to check directly by car. The question of how to check the generator after heating is solved by heating the construction hairdryer to a possible temperature of operation.

Repair of the automotive generator at home requires great qualifications and, in most cases it is inexpedient. It is much easier to replace it completely. The exceptions are a car regulator relay and a diode bridge.

The main source of electricity in the car is the generator. It is thanks to him that the normal functioning of all electrical nodes, devices and systems is carried out. In the case of its breakdown, the current produced by the generator will not go on the battery, respectively, such a car can no longer be able to work. Therefore, to avoid such cases, you need to regularly diagnose this device. And today we will look at how to check the generator with your own hands and what devices are required for this.

Instruments

First of all, you should take care of the purchase of special devices for the diagnosis of such nodes. They can be a multi-voltmeter. Both devices are not a deficit, and you can buy them for a completely acceptable price. Voltmeter's maximum cost is no more than $ 20.

What is the difference between multi and voltmeter?

The main difference lies in the fact that the first element, in addition to measuring the voltage, can determine the mass of other electrical parameters. This is the strength of the current, resistivity and so on. But with a regular voltmeter it is quite possible to diagnose the generator. However, for this you need to know the sequence of all the works that we describe below.

How to check the generator?

On the vases of different year of release, this diagnosis is not significantly different, so this instruction can be applied relative to all passenger cars And even foreign cars.

So, first you need to check the battery. It is necessary for starting the generator, which will subsequently charge it. Thus, the discharged battery is not able to start this item, and therefore it simply makes no sense to check it with a sex battery. By the way, if jumps with charge are observed at a minus temperature, most likely your battery is very worn. In this case, it is subject to replacement.

How to check the generator multimeter? First you need to drown out the motor and attach the device to the battery. Make it is not difficult - red contact is responsible for the "plus", and black for "minus". During the diagnosis, it is not recommended to touch the battery with our bare hands.

After completed manipulations, the device must show the charge. If it is 12 V and above, it means that your battery is in complete orderShe is able to run the generator while turning the ignition key. If the multimeter showed the numbers below 12 V, this indicates a discharged battery. In this case, charge it to the level of 13-13.5 V. If the battery begins to lose tension instantly, it speaks of its strong wear. Recall that the average service life car battery It is 2-3 years.

Relay diagnostics

We disassemble further with how to check the generator. So, if it turned out that the battery is charged, go to the next stage of work. In the queue diagnostics relay. This element is used to maintain the necessary potential difference in the on-board network of the car. This item reduces the risk of network overvoltage in the machine. How to check the generator relay? If you use a multimeter as a diagnostic device, translate it into the voltage measurement mode. Next, you should start the engine and pay attention to the apparatus scale. The multimeter should show values \u200b\u200bfrom 14 to 14.5 V (at the generator outputs or battery terminals). At the same time, when you click on the accelerator pedal (here it is best to call an assistant) the voltage should not increase more than 0.5 V. If the device showed other values \u200b\u200bat least in one of these cases, it means that the generator relay is in a faulty state. If the data satisfies the norm, go to other items.

Diagnostics of a diode bridge

How to check the diode generator bridge? To do this, you need to translate the multimeter to the "sound" mode. After closer, the contacts of the probe and listen to the device. The latter must publish a characteristic squeak. It is worth noting that the bridge consists of 6 diodes, half of which are responsible for "plus", and the other for "minus". You need to check each of them in both directions. At the same time, the peak should be heard only in one of them. If the diode "beats" in two sides, most likely, it breaks through and is subject to replacement. But motorists are recommended in this case to change the whole bridge. On this, the question of how to check the diode bridge of the generator, can be considered closed. But this does not mean that the diagnosis has already been completed. The queue we have a generator stator. This item has the form of a metal cylinder, inside which there is a special winding. How to check this item? To do this, we need to disconnect the conclusions of the stator and inspect the winding status. The latter should not contain any mechanical damage, burning and other deformations. Next, you should translate the multimeter to the resistance measurement mode and check the winding for breakdown. How to do it?

In this case, we measure the resistance between any of the winding conclusions and the stator housing itself. The obtained numbers must be large. Ideally, they strive for infinity. But if the device showed resistance less than 50 kΩ, most likely, your generator failed.

Rotor check

However, this is not all. Also, the problem of the malfunction of the generator can be hidden in the worn rotor. The latter is a metal rod. It has a winding. In addition, the rotor (namely end of the rod) has rings for which the generator brushes rub. So how to check this detail For goodness? To do this, remove the rotor and see the state of bearings. Also pay attention to the winding. As in the previous case, it should not have damage and burning.

But visual inspection It is not enough to diagnose such a detail as the generator rotor. This element, like everyone else, must pass the test produced by a multimeter. How to do it? To do this, measure the resistivity between the contact rings. The result obtained should be at least 2 ohms. If the data amounted to less than one or generally close to zero, it means that a short circuit occurred in the system, which struck the rotor, causing its fault. Out of such a situation only one - the replacement of the part.

Safety technique

During the diagnosis of elements, it is not necessary to forget that the generator is the source of the formation of electrical energy. Therefore, all its elements can cause damage to the current in non-compliance with the safety rules. Now you know how to check the generator. But you need to pay attention to the following points:

• In no case cannot be checked by the performance of elements by short circuit.
• You should not connect the terminal "30", also denoted as "B +" with 67th or "D +". Also unacceptably connect it to "mass".
• Do not allow the generator when the battery is turned off. It can quickly bring it out of order.
• If you need to replace the wiring in the generator system, you need to pay attention to the section and the length of the acquired items. These two parameters must be as close as possible to those that have been "native" wires.
• How to check the generator? Before sure to make sure the reliability and health of all connections and the normal belt tension. Make it is not difficult. When pressing a large finger on its middle, the generator belt should be made no more than 1-1.5 centimeters. Otherwise, it must be loosen or tighten (depending on the situation).

Welders at a notes

By the way, in the work of repair and welding, the body in the car must disable all wires that run from the battery and the generator. Otherwise, the short circuit or breakage of the onboard network chain will be inevitable.

So, we found out how to check the charging of the generator with their own hands.

The car generator is the main source of energy in the on-board network and when it or fails, you will not drive for a long time on the same battery. That is why it is so important to control the operation of the generator.

The full range of generator checks includes:

In most cases, it is not difficult to check the car generator with your own hands, because on what kind of car you did not check, the principle is the same. But still, many car owners are often wondering: how to check the generator by a multimeter or undergraduate means?

How to check the generator without removing the car

There are two ways using a multimeter and without it. The first, relatively new, is that, and the second, old and verified, almost in the opposite - the battery terminal must be removed on the engine running.

1. Verification of the battery multimeter First takes place at rest - the voltage must be within 12.5-12.8 V. Then it is necessary to measure the readings already on the engine running, if 13.5-14.5 is observed at 2 thousand turns, it means everything is in order. With that on new cars even 14.8 in quite normal, as manufacturers assure - the abundance of electronics affects. In conclusion remains check voltage under load, that is, connecting consumers - stove, headlights, heated, radio. Failing within 13.7-14.0 V is considered to be permissible, but 12.8-13 in already talk about a malfunction.
2. The second way, like many "grandfathers", simple and trouble-free, but at the same time rather dangerous and requiring accuracy. According to statements, it works both on vases and on relatively new cars, like Aveo. What is the essence - weaken the bolt of fastening the minus terminal of the AKB key to 10, start the engine and give a small load by turning on one of the consumers, such as headlights. Then remove the terminal when the motor running is if it does not stares and the headlights are not a meal, it means that everything is fine with the generator, otherwise you can be sure that it is broken. Trying such a method should be at your own risk.

It is extremely unwittingly to allow the operation of the generator with the disconnected consumers, especially the battery. This can lead to a relay controller malfunction.

Finding out that there is a malfunction, you should dismantle and check the removed generator with a multimeter, a light bulb and visually. The check is subject to each of its elements separately.

First of all, it is worth making sure that the generator belt is well stretched, and the bearings are not broken. Foreign noises and a very hot generator talk about wear of bearings.

How to check brushes and contact rings

For the start of the ring and the brushes visually inspect, and their condition is estimated. For example, the minimum residue is measured (min. the height of the current-piece brushes do not 4.5 mm, and min. Rings diameter 12.8 mm). In addition, they look at the presence of workings and furrows.

Brushes extracted from the brush knot of the regulator

Generator Rotor Contact Rings

How to check the diode bridge (rectifier)

Checking the diodes is made by measuring resistance and detection of conductivity. Since the diode bridge consists of two plates, then check one immediately and then another. The tester should show the conductivity of diodes is only in one direction. Now a little more details: one tester probe is kept on the "+" terminal, and then alternately check the conclusions of the diodes, and then change the probe (in one case there should be great resistance, and there is no other). Then we act in the same way and with another part of the bridge.

It should be noted that the resistance should not be zero, as it says that the diode is punched. The punched diode of the bridge and then when there is no resistance in both sides.

Checking a diode bridge

Checking contact rings

At least one the unsuitable diode leads to the failure of the entire diode bridge And gives an abbance of the battery.

How to check the generator on the VAZ-2110 at home? Determine the faulty part of this electric machine is easy. To do this, disassemble it into composite parts. You may not have to buy it entirely, but it will be enough to replace or repair the broken item.

1. Bearings. To determine the state of the rear bearing, vigorously regenerate it in different directions. If rotation is difficult, there is a backlash or extraneous noise - the bearing is subject to replacement. Similarly, check the front bearing. To do this, keeping the pulley hand, bring the front cover.
2. Pulley. Inspect it for damage and wear of teeth. Perhaps it requires replacement.
3. Winding. We connect the apposals of the ohmmeter (or multimeter confined in the measurement mode) to the rotor contact rings. If its resistance ranges from 4.5 to 10 ohms, then everything is fine. Otherwise, the replacement is subject to the direct rotor (anchor) entirely.

If now one of the probes to transfer to the rotor housing, the multimeter should show endless resistance. If it is close to zero, the winding is also faulty, "closed on the body."

Similarly, a multimeter check the integrity of the stator winding.

Diode Bridge (rectifier block)

Connect the positive multimeter probe configured in the diodes check mode to the total bus of the rectifier block, negative probe touch the opposite conclusions of each diode alternately. Resistance should strive for infinity. When changing the probe, in places resistance - within a few hundredthm. If this is not the case, the diode bridge works incorrectly and the diode replacement or the entire rectifier block is required.

Voltage regulator

First of all, we inspect the brushes of the regulator. Their wear or damage - the most frequent cause of the malfunction of the generator, they are considered consumable material. The length of their protruding part should be at least 5 mm. Check the smoothness of their walking, the operation of pressing springs.