Heated rear window heating. What to do? Step-by-step instruction. Rear window heating recovery rear window heating determine the gap

Freezing and fogging rear glass lead to a decrease in visibility, which limits control over road situation. In the article, consider all components of heating, as well as their possible malfunctions. Let's show how the rear window heating is performed.

How the system is arranged

To find the fault of the rear window heater without any problems, consider the system of the system. All items are presented on a schematic diagram.

1. Mounting block.
2. Ploy switching relay.
3. Egnition lock.
4. Button on dashboard. Inside the button, a light bulb is installed, which lights up when the heating is enabled and the ignition.
5. The corresponding icon on the dashboard, duplicating information about the enabled heating.
6. Conductive threads located on the rear window.

The principle of operation of the entire system is the heating effect manifested in passing the current through the heating element. Those in the heating system of the rear window is the network of conductive threads. When the ignition is turned on in the 3rd position (ON) through the fuse (in our case F7), power is supplied to the system's power button. After pressing the current button, Ignor the control light, enters the corresponding icon on the dashboard and back to the mounting unit to the switching relay. After closing the appropriate contacts, the relay is taking power supply (+) to one of the terminals of the conductive threads. The second output is connected to the car body corresponding to the minus conclusion of the AKB. Thus, through the thread begins to flow the current.

Now it is easier for us to understand how to repair the heating of the rear window. For the successful repair of heating of the rear window of the car, it is advisable to be able to read electrical circuits, since not to all cars you will find so clearly depicted elements as the scheme provided by us.

Fault

How to find a cause

All manipulations for the search for the cause of the breakdown should be made after checking the fuse. Also, the character of the breakdown itself can tell the way to find a fault.

For example, a light bulb stopped working with the heating of the rear window in the button. It is likely that it is just a coincidence, since the light might just overdo it. But the correspondence says about the likelihood of no power flowing to the button. In this case, according to the above scheme, you need to check the chain from the ignition lock, the conclusions 1 and 9, 2 and 4 on the mounting unit, 85 and 86 the contacts of the relay, as well as the button itself.

The heating of the thread is missing, but the light bulb in the after switching button works. In this case, the power to the button is exactly the arrival, so the breakage in the circuit after the switch. It is necessary to check the fuse F4, the heating switch relay and the corresponding conclusions in the mounting unit, as well as the contacts of the heating threads.

Glass thaws only partially, which indicates the breakdown of some filaments of incandescent.

Power Check

To diagnose chain breakdown, you need to know. In measurement mode direct current (DCV) You need to sequentially check whether the voltage of the same or other conclusions.

To check the power coming to the relay, it must be removed from mounting block. To check, you will need a multimeter (in DC mode, up to 20 V) or the control. Turn on the rear window heating. If 85 and 86 conclusions of the relay are current, it means a malfunction in the relay itself either in subsequent chain elements.

To verify the performance of the relay itself, it also needs to be removed from the block.

You can use a multimeter in resistance measurement mode or the so-called call. The lighting of different light bulbs helps to determine + and -; Some devices have sound support.

To check the coil located in the relay, connect the probe with contacts 85 and 86. If the multimeter shows the infinite resistance, and the red indicator does not light up in the control, indicating the KZ, then the coil burned or the contacts were burned. For subsequent check, attach to 85 and 86 conclusions power from the battery. After a click indicating the coil performance, contact between the conclusions 30 and 87 should appear.

If you do not want to check separately relays and conclusions 85, 86 in the mounting unit, check whether there is a voltage at the outputs 10 (sh9) and 5 (sh8). The presence of voltage is the fact that the relay and track of the mounting unit are fully operational.

If you have discovered the oxidation of contacts, clean the surface with emery paper or supfil. Repair of the heater will be completed.

Search for a cliff of the heating element

There are a lot of ways to detect cliff conductive threads. For search, you can use a multimeter in resistance measurement mode. You need to measure resistance at the beginning and at the end of each thread. The value must be approximately the same. If a value of 1 is lit on the screen, it will indicate a break. You can connect to the conclusions of the filaments of the battery. Multimeter must be translated into DC measurement mode. Plus proud to secure on the plus output of the heating element, and apply a minus to the middle of each thread. The value should be equal to half the battery value.

To localize the place, measure the same method, ranging from the edge of the thread. Place the probe at a distance, for example, 10 cm and move to the edge of the thread. In order not to damage excessively tinting, you can solder on the conclusions of the needle probe. So you can imperceptibly pierce the film and do not harm the threads.

Repair with your own hands

Repair of heating rear window is not possible without a special conductive composition. Special glue can be used to attach terminals to the element. For the restoration of the threads there are special repair formulations. Their cost is quite democratic, and you can find them in almost every department of autotovarov. There are also methods for independent manufacture of conductive compositions. Repair of the heater occurs as follows:

• delete a toning from the break. Use a ruler and stationery knife to gently trim the film only around the perimeter of the cliff of the thread;
• decrease the surface;
• cut the malarious tape, leaving inside the place under the repair makeup;
• apply conductive glue;
• turn off the scotch. Do not wait for the drying of the composition, since it is likely that later with it will turn and a layer from the repair area.

Do not apply too thick layer, as it will reduce resistance and, as a result, the temperature in the repair area.

The heating element renovated in this way will be further faithfully serve you.

The heating system of the rear window TC is a common equipment for almost each modern car. The purpose of this functional supplement is to eliminate ice crust or sprousing from glass in winter. If the heating of the rear window does not work, the visibility is deteriorating, and the driver is deprived of the ability to rationally assess the circumstances on the roadway behind its own car. Restore safe driving will allow the speedy repairs.

Device of heating system

To understand how to restore the heating of the rear window, it is worth pre-examining the principle of operation of this system. Its goal is to eliminate fogging and preventing air cutting in the cabin. IN winter time This function is indispensable as icing evenly leaves glass and at the moment when you already need to go, the review is 100% free.

The principle of operation of such a system in the case of the windshield is the effectiveness of directional air flow.

If we are talking about the rear window, compact heating elements come into operation, the source of which is the electrical network. Metal tracks are fixed on the surface of the glass from the cabin. These are numerous thinnest ribbons through which electricity passes, activating the heat release process. As a result - due to the heating of the glass, the water evaporates and the surface becomes transparent in a couple of minutes.

Scheme of work

To know how to restore the heating of the rear window of the car and with high levels professionalism to come up to the performance of repair, examine the principle of work and electrical circuit Connecting wires. From the terminal + battery power goes to the ignition lock, then on the fuses and last on the controller. After such a path, it follows the power contact relay. TC Body is associated with minus battery output. The activation of the heater supplies the voltage to the relay winding, then the power contacts are closed, there is also a connection of relay conclusions. The current flows by parallel to the connected tapes of the heater, then it falls on a minus output through the body of the machine.

Remember, the activation of the heater is possible only with the activated ignition key.

In some cases, a launched motor appears in the role of factor activation. Such a feature is due to the fact that the battery should not be prematurely discharged, and given the features of each brand of the car, the amount of consumption of this system can be 10-25 A.

Sources problems

Since to restore the heating of the rear window with their own hands prefer many drivers, you need to know about the options for repair, taking into account the source of the problem. IN independent check The functional nodes of the machine will not be obstacles if you have minimal automotive repair skills.

The safety element is the first thing that should attract your attention when the breakage is detected, since the system will not work if it overwhelms. The localization of this element varies depending on the machine model, so at this stage you will have to seek help from the TC service book. Next, remove the fuse and make sure it is working. Rear window heating repair will be limited to the replacement element.

The breakdown of the system relay can also lead to the opening of the heating. In this situation, the installation of the fresh item will also be enough.

Wiring

If the fuse replacement has not corrected the situation, proceed to the diagnostics of the feeding electrical conductors. Burning, fastening breakdown or fracture contribute to stopping current flow to heating poles. To detect this circumstance, turn on the heating button and measure the terminal tester voltage. You can detect the terminals at the bottom of the glass or on its sides. The lack of voltage on the wires should alert you.

Examine the entire path of wiring for integrity, clean the contacts of the terminals and connections. Oxidation in these zones often lead to voltage supply lock. If it was not possible to cope with this task, it will help you autoelectric.

In case of damage to the heating tapes, it may also be necessary to restore the heating of the rear window. To know how to do this, it is necessary to pre-explore the peculiarities of the workflow in this area. The heating element receives the voltage and the energy follows the threads. In relation to the base, they are connected in parallel and perform the role of current conductors. Their heating is due to a certain fraction of resistance, despite the insignificant heating temperature, it is enough for its purpose. If one or more threads are damaged, there is no current on them, therefore, these sites are not heated. Features repair work This situation describes a little lower.

Controls

If all the items that you checked earlier are good, you should pay attention to the power button. It is possible to determine the operation of the system along the lighting light indicator, which makes it necessary to know after pressing the button. If everything is activated and the corresponding indicators made itself felt, but the glass does not heat, it is likely to wear or burn the working contacts of the toggler, so the energy is not served. Repair of the heating of the rear window of the car requires only replacement of the button.

Import cars

In the case of imported machines, the repair of rear window heating does not limit itself to the diagnosis of the standard heating system, since the rear view mirrors are also equipped with heating. The activation of the heating of the glass of the feed leads to a parallel activation of the mirror warming up. If the system does not work on both zones, the most likely probability is that you are dealing with the cause discussed in the first point - a fuse or relay.

It is important to determine which fuses are connected with glass, because there are several of them. It will not be superfluous to diagnose the electronic board, which due to the disappearance of contacts and the rupture of the tracks is often wearing.

Phased repair

It is paramount to diagnose and purchase a repair kit. Repair kit options can be somewhat and below the repair technology in each case.

In addition to visual diagnostics of the state of the threads, there are several more methods, more reliable and effective:

1. Visual diagnostics requires the activation of the heater when the rear window swam. Where the threads are torn, the surface almost instantly will move, whereas in the rest of the zones will be problematic.
2. Using a voltmeter requires ignition activation and further turn on the heating system. One dipstick should lie on the mass of the vehicle, and the second near the center of the heating ribbon. Pre-second probe wrap foil. The opening will be localized in the zone where the voltage will rise to 12 V or fall to zero. Ideally this parameter should not exceed 5 V.
3. The second method of using a voltmeter implies fixation of one probe to the positive terminal of the heater, and the second must be moved along the tape of the negative terminal. Problem Most There will be where the voltage is zero.
4. The use of an ohmmeter requires activation of the Kilo regime. The device must be analog, with an arrow. Probes should be located near the system conclusions that are in opposite sides of each other. Use distilled water to wet your wool, which you need to smoothly spend on the tape. As soon as the appliance arrow fade, you can detect the cliff area.

Repair conductive glue

Repairing the rear window heating yarns can be carried out using conductive glue. It is designed for temperature range from -60 to +100 degrees. Do not choose sets with glue, the cost of which is 150-200 rubles. Often they are enough for a while or they can be ineffective at all. The cost of 300-400 rubles will be optimal for such a set.

Procedure for performing work:

1. Explore the instructions attached to the set. You must have a clear idea of \u200b\u200bthe embodiments of the composition and the speed of its full drying.
2. Prepare a problem surface. Moisten the rag in the alcohol solution and wipe the area.
3. Slightly clean the edges in the cliff zone with zero emery paper. It is enough to simply remove the flare and the tag with two movements.
4. Take advantage of the scotch even to wake strips through the thickness of the sides. It should not overlap the thread, but also avoid the departure from the tape for a long distance. Focusing specifically on the width of the thread.
5. Start applying a conductive adhesive on the prepared zone with a tassel or a syringe. From the instructions you will learn how many layers need to be applied. Fall on the working zones of the tape should be 1 cm left and right.
6. Liquid your tape and wait for the composition to dry. Previously, this will not happen.
7. Check the performance of the system after drying.

Among the demanded and reliable manufacturers of the repair kit, which includes threads, it is worth highlighting Quick and Permatex. Such options are suitable for repairing even extensive plots, even ate we are talking about 10 cm. The package assumes the presence of heating tapes, a polymer resin in the form of a spray and stencils.

The repair of the heater is reduced to the following actions:

• determine the rupture zone and prepare the filament of the appropriate size;
• eliminate the protective film and use the resin to fix the threads in the required zone;
• after complete drying, repeat the manipulation and check the result after 2 days.

Alternative method

Folk methods will also rise to restore the threads. The difference between them is only in the material used:

1. Chips in combination with paint. The first material will be able to get copper and brass from the bar, which must be treated with files. Pick up the paint so that it is combined with a shade of heating tapes. Mix the components in the same proportions until you reach the mild dough consistency. Use an insulating tape or scotch to create a stencil. Stick stencil and activate heating. It is possible to determine the contact by characteristic hiss. Apply a mixture on a stencil. This method Allows you to get rid of the need to wait for a day. You can operate the car immediately after the manipulations performed.
2. The breakdown of the breakfast is carried out using zinc chloride. Prefer the act with the minimum content of tin - POSS-4-6 or POS-18. He lived from copper or silver is suitable for repairing an extensive ribbon section.

Each car is equipped with a rear window heating device that allows the driver in bad weather. full picture About what is happening from behind his car. But sometimes it happens that this device fails, from which safety when driving is significantly reduced. How is the repair of heating rear window, how to make this procedure with your own hands? Find out below.

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Description of the rear window heater

First of all, it is necessary to deal with what is a conductive heating of the car, how the filament of the incandeship film works and what kind of malfunction is characteristic.

Device

Heating windshield Or the rear is well coped not only with the thawing ice in the winter season, but also with fogging in dry weather. Thanks to the threads of the incandescent film, glass can evenly get rid of ice while the machine is heated. When the heater's air flow is only beginning to become warm, heating windshield or rear will already make it completely transparent. The heater is the only one effective method In the fight against fogging.

As for the windshield - its heating is carried out as a result of the impact on it of warm air. As for the rear, then in this case the heater is a certain amount of incandescent threads on the film mounted on glue that operate from voltage. On the heated glass, these threads are installed, characterized by greater resistance. The filament of incandescent mounted on glue is carried out through themselves energy that allows you to highlight heat. Ultimately, when the heating button of the rear window is pressed, the threads begin to warm and completely heated.

Principle of operation and function

If you do not work the heating of the rear window or wind, then for proper diagnostics, breakdowns need to be dealt with the principle of work. Below is a scheme of work and connect the heater with your own hands to the on-board network of the car. As you can see, food goes with a positive battery terminal through the ignition lock, as well as fuses, in the end, entering the device controller and the relay contact. As for the minus conclusion, it connects to the body vehicleThe mass is also connected one of the conclusions of the heater.

During the activation of the heater, the current begins to go to the relay winding. After the relay is triggered, the power contacts are closed, as well as the simultaneous connection of two conclusions marked with numbers 87 and 30. The voltage enters the car heater, passing through the threads installed on the glue, interconnected in parallel. After that, the voltage passes again through the mass of the car and returns to minus the battery.

Possible malfunctions and their signs

If the heating of the rear window does not work, then the motorists usually recognize this when it starts sweating or falls on it. Including the function of the heater, you can wait for a very long time, as a result, the results will not be or the glass is heated partially. Here you do not need to be a big specialist in order to understand that the device requires repair.

Depending on the connection scheme, the car heater or rear window can be turned on both when the ignition is turned on and without it, but usually still works with the on. Depending on the car, wind or threads mounted on the glue on the rear window can only work after starting the engine. This allows you to prevent an accelerated battery discharge (video author - Logbook Renault Megan).

It should also be noted, the device can operate on a current from 10 to 25 amps, it all depends on a particular car.

So, if the rear window heating does not work, then the fault types may be several:

1. The system does not turn on. In the event that the lamp located on the button does not shine when the system is turned on, most likely, the problem is either in the button or in the fuse. If the lamp is on, but the threads planted on the glue are not warm, the relay must be checked. In some cases, the problem lies in the connecting connectors of the device with a car electr cap, so you need to check these elements. Diagnosis is carried out in accordance with the service documentation for the car.
2. If the rear or windshield turns slowly, especially in the period of winter cold, the essence of the problem can be in bad contact of one of the connectors, it needs to be checked. In the end, the resistance of the contacts will increase, and the voltage will be less powerful, respectively, the threads planted with the glue will warm up longer. In order to test it, you must use the multimeter and measure the voltage indicator on the terminals of the device. If there are differences in the testimony, they must be no more than one volt. Otherwise, it will be necessary to restore the heating of the rear window of the car.
3. Horizontal footprints remain on the autoglack - Another fault type. One of the most common problems in this case is to break the filaments of incandescent in certain places. Usually it is possible to check and reveal such a breakdown without special devices, just to the eye, because in the place of the breakage of the autoglass will not flaunt or swam. It should be noted that even with a small mechanical effects of the track destroyed, so when cleaning the autoglass, it is necessary to carefully use the scraper. If you practice the transport of overall cargo, make sure that they do not rest in the rear window.

Diagnosis and repair

Methods for finding a problem thread

With your own hands, repair and diagnosis is not so difficult.

There are several options for checking with your own hands:

1. First of all, this is a visual check. When moving the autoglass, turn on the system. In the place where the breakdown occurred, it will take off almost immediately. In this case, the rest of the surface will not be warm. This method of diagnosis with your own hands is the easiest.
2. Another option check with your own hands - using a voltmeter. You need to activate the ignition of the car and, accordingly, the heating system. One probe voltmeter should be put on a vehicle mass, and the second turns into the food foil, after which it must be reduced to the heating yarn. When performing such a procedure, you will notice that the voltage level is no more than 5 volts. If this indicator decreases to 0 or increases to 12, in this place there was a breakdown.
3. Another diagnostic version with your own hands is the same voltmeter. One voltmeter probe is connected to the plus of the system, and the second must be moved along the incandescent thread, from the minus side. Where the breakdown occurred, the voltage level will decrease to zero, in which case the repair will be required.
4. The last diagnostic option is your own hands - using an ohmmeter. The device's probes are connected to minus and plus system. You need to take a piece of the rolling and moisten it in distilled water, then spend on the thread. When the arrow of the Ommeter starts to move, it will talk about the cliff.

Repair options do it yourself

How to repair the heating of the rear window at home? There are several ways:

1. Using Remkomplekt. In practice, repair kits usually have the same characteristics - usually they allow you to restore up to 10 cm damaged threads. Such remklects include the threads themselves, as well as a canister or tube with a special polymer resin. For repair, you need to accurately identify the place of the cliff, then disconnect the heating system. Next, you need to remove the protective film and attach a new thread to the place of damage. Using a brush, a polymer resin should be applied, repeat the application procedure after complete drying. Before the next use of the system, it is necessary to wait a day.
2. For repair, you can use a conductive paste - the substance layer must be applied to the break point. It should be noted that when applied it is necessary to capture several centimeters on each side, wait about a day after applying. So that the paste dried faster, it can be blown up with a construction hairdryer.

Video "How to repair the heater at home"

A detailed system for repairing the system with your own hands is given on the video below (the author of the video is self-skinned and gadget +).

In cold weather, or simply in the rainy, when you turn on the heating of the rear window, you can find that it simply does not work - either completely, the fogging does not go away, or does not warm one or more threads. Thus, the view of the rear window is reduced - which can adversely affect driving safety! Need to restore. But how to do? It turns out everything is quite simple, read ...

Actually the reason for everyone known to everyone, on our VAZ, these threads are constantly "burned", and rode from 1 - 2 - 3 threads that did not get raged, terribly uncomfortable! But now it is long ago there are funds and repair kits that allow you to restore all this, and quite efficiently.

How does the heating of the rear window work?

All just to the rear glass fit the wires, with a voltage of 12 volts. On the surface on the sides there are special, tracks in which and embed these wires. The tracks go vertically up, it is if you can express it - the "main tire", there are only two of them on the right and left, at least.

But already come from them, thin (in 2 - 3 mm), horizontal strips that heat the glass itself, cleaning it from fogging, or from snow in winter. They are the main work element of the whole design.

Usually there are several dozen, about 20 - 40 in the working area, it all depends on the class of the car and the size of its rear window.

Of course, any electrical device is controlled by a fuse, which is designed for a certain voltage and ampero.

Does not work what is the reason?

Actually, there are only two main reasons here, and both of them lie in the power system:

• Fuse. Yes, he can really blown. It happens because of various reasons, it may be trite not a big closure and that's it. Thus, the heating will not work completely. Need to find . This is the first and mandatory step.

• If it is intact, then we need to check the voltage on the wires that are suitable for the main "tires" (side wide stripes). As a rule, they have conventional metal contacts. Just take the multimeter and measure if the voltage is and it is about 12 volts, it means that the meal comes here, everything is in order.
• Thin lines themselves. To be honest, then immediately all of them can not overdo it. As a rule, burns from one to three, well, the maximum of four "threads". Therefore, if you have a part of the window leaves (from fogging or ice), and the part is not. You need to watch non-working threads.

• Inspect this thin strip, and you will see the break place. This will be a distinguished part, near it can be a little black (although the thread is originally brown). Also, the thread will be swallowed, this is a place and you need to connect to restore performance.

From myself I want to add, the fuse is rarely lit, mostly, it is the breakdown of the glass that needs to be restored.

Repair of heating with their own hands

I remember distant times when it was practically not real! Now how the technique has reached - you can buy a rear window repair kit, it is to restore these narrow strips. I suspect that there is some kind of metallized composition, or paint - but it is called a conductive glue.

Such glue can withstand temperatures from - 60 to + 100 degrees Celsius. It is him that we need to buy. The only thing you want to say - do not take the cheapest composition, now in my opinion it is about 150 - 200 rubles, take a little more expensive about 300 - 400 rubles, such compositions work much longer.

Now actually instruction for recovery:

• First you need a little, I repeat a little - clean the edges of the strip in the cliff places. It is necessary to remove the nap and other flats, which is formed on the glass. For this, the sandpaper "Zero" is ideal, literally a couple of movements and ready.
• We wipe the alcohol, we remove the whole raid.
• Now we take adhesion, and stick strips on the sides, in its thickness. Scotch should not close the strip, but also should not move away from her for a large distance in the width of the thread so that there were no gaps.
• Next we take our composition, "conductive glue." He has a syringe or a special brush. We begin to paint the place we have prepared. How many layers will not be written in the instructions. So it is worth noting you need to go to the working sections of the strip on 1 centimeter to the right and left.

• Now we need the composition to dry. Remove the scotch and wait. Usually enough about 24 hours. But not earlier! After that, we include and check the performance, everything should work.

That's actually all, such not complicated instruction. Now watch the video version.

On the street it became cold and in the morning everything is more and more often what you have to do - press the heating button of the rear window. But horror, you turn on the heating and discover that not all the threads are warm. What to do? Replacing the glass - the pleasure is not cheap, the repair remains on its own. Usually recommended repair methods

the heating threads of the rear window, from the words of those who tried, leave to desire better - the low efficiency of inexpensive conductive adhesives, and the high price of branded mixtures.

And at the open spaces of the network met an interesting repair technology, reviews of those who tried it more than enthusiastic:

Description of technology.

From the reagents, the copper sulfate is needed - better known as the copper sulphate (used in crop production and construction), and sulfuric acid - the electrolyteor is completely suitable. From the tool - the segment of copper (preferably precisely copper - not brass.

It is quite suitable for several segments of the copper wire folded in the beam) tube or bar with a diameter of 6-10 mm and a tissue strip 20-30 mm wide and a length of an approximately halfter. At the end of the rod, the strip of fabric should be hung on half of its width - it should be something like auscity. From above, you must put a bandage from the thread so that the fabric does not work out.

Preparation of electrolyte - not to be confused with an electrolyte AKKA - also does not represent complexity. In the floor-glass of water, a couple of teaspoons of copper sulfate is poured, and is stirred before dissolution. It was not completely dissolved - not scary, do not pay attention. In the resulting district, it is necessary to add 0.2-0.3% of the concentrated sulfuric acid or 0.5-1% of the electrolyte for the battery - this is approximately half a teaspoon of electrolyte on these half-table.

Well, the actual process. Both glass terminals are connected to the "mass" (if the glass is installed in the car and at it is at least one warming thread - it is not necessary to do anything), and the "plus" of the battery is connected to the tube with a cloth.

We urinate the positive electrode in the solution and begin to actively and continuously rub the seat of the thread cliff within 3-5 minutes. Through the solution passes the current that transfers copper ions from the electrode to the heating thread. With a slight damage, the thread, the gap is completely delayed with copper, with large gaps, deposited areas should be irradiated with a non-heated soldering iron and solder the jumper from the thin wire.

Limit current is not required, because After a few seconds, the anode is passivated and limits the flowing
current. Do not forget that the solution contains sulfuric acid - for the skin such a concentration is not hazardous, but
On the clothes in a week - two holes appear (therefore I do not advise you to carry out the process without removing the glass, although it is quite possible.

• A couple more ways ......

1st way:

- On the stuffing glass, turn on the overtakers and at the site of the glass quickly turns the spot, then this thread does not turn off the thread.

2nd way:

- To detect the rear window heater rupture, turn on the ignition and turn on the rear window heater.
- Connect one probe voltmeter with a mass of the car, and the second probe wrap the foil and move the foil along the heater conductor.
- Connect the probe voltmeter in the center of each conductor of the rear window heater. If the voltmeter shows the voltage of about 5 B, it means that the heater conductor is working. If a voltmeter shows a voltage of 0 V or 12 V, then there is a break of the heater conductor.

- To detect the heater conductor break location, connect one voltmeter probe to the positive terminal of the heater, and the second probe move along the heater conductor from the negative heater terminal. A point in which the voltage shown by the voltmeter will fall from several volts to zero and is the place of rupture of the heater conductor.

3rd way:

- Ommeter, in Kilo mode, and better than mego. One probe clings to one conclusion of the heater, the second probe to another conclusion of the heater. Take a piece of moistened wool in distilled water and lead them along the heater threads, monitor the readings of the kilo, the megohommeter at the point of the cliff arrow will rush.
- Ommeter is better to use analog (with an arrow).
- Works in case the break in one place ...

Directly repairing threads:

In all the methods listed below, it is preliminarily to clean the conductive strip from varnish (better - bent steel wire, clip) until the metallic shine is appeared and degreased.
1st method (conductive paste):

- Restore the torn conductor of the rear window heater can with the use of conductive paste.
- Before repairing, turn off the rear glass heating and allow the glass to cool the glass.
- Observing care, clean the heater conductor and rinse it with alcohol.
- Use the sticky ribbon to mark the repaired area.
- Apply the electrically conductive paste about 20 mm from each end of the damaged conductor.
- After drying the electrically conductive paste for 24 hours you can use the heater of the rear window.

Can be dried as high temperatures, then you can use heating earlier.
2nd method (electrolytic coating):

- Copper sulphate is needed from the reaction - more known as copper coupos (it is used in extinity and
Studing), and sepal acid - it is quite suitable for an electricity from the ackamulato.

- From the instaturation - the depressions of copper (preferably it is copper - not brass. It is quite suitable for several emissions of the copper punching folded in the beam) timing or a diameter of 6-10 mm diameter and a strip of tissue of 20-30 mm and a length of half-one.

- At the end of the psyuka should be hung the strip of the tissue on half of its shine - there should be something like a brush.

Svetuha must be putting a bandage from the thread so that the fabric does not work.

- PREPARATION OF USER - not to be confused with the electricity of the accumulator - also does not appease complexity. In the half-glass of water, the pap of teaspoons of copper coupos is poured, and it is completely in charge, not fully understood - it is not necessary, do not pay attention.

In the resulting P-P, it is necessary to add 0.2-0.3% of the application of concentrated sepital acid or 0.5-1% of the battery voltage - it is half a teaspoon of the television spoon on these half-table.
- Actually ppotsss.

Both glass terminals are connected to the "mass" (if the glass is installed in the car and on it, at least one guming thread on it - it is not necessary to do anything), and the "plus" of the battery is connected to the trumpet. We will urinate the positive electrode in the public and begin to actively and not sufficiently roll the place of the yield of the thread within 3-5 minutes.

Those, the public is the current current, which moves copper ions from an electrode on the gveying thread. These are a small leakage of the thread. The thread is completely delayed with copper, and the crumpled areas should be launched in a non-steady soldering iron and see the drift from the thin pensioner.

Spanking current is not tuped, because Those for a few seconds an anode passivates and fetuses the current current. We should not forget that the UPOP is facilitated by a sepitalic acid!

3rd way (paint with chips):
- Take the copper-brass bpat (the graphite fit) and the small file began to make a stupu.
- KPAS (you can kpasnaya, under the color of the threads) mixed with the stupuka, the approach simply 50/50. There should be a dough-aqueous mixture.
- It turns on over and applied paint to the thread, which has been tapping the TPAFPET from the isol or tape. IN
The process of applying paint appeared hissing from the point of contact, then it pipped, but the thread was gentle.
- done. Literally, the composition is frozen a minute.

4th method (magnet and glue):
- Prepare very small iron sawdust, small size magnet (from speaker) and transparent glue (type BF 2) or nitrolac.
- attach a magnet with outside Over the break site, then from the side of the conductor, sprinkle sawdust, quietly moving the magnet to achieve electrical contact at the break site (it will be noticeable of heating strips - unless of course the gap in one place, otherwise you will need more magnets).
- Apply a small brush with a brush drop of glue on the sawdust and give dry glue (lacquer).
- Then remove the magnet and the blade to remove excess sawdust. You can re-apply one layer of glue (varnish).
- Enough for several years.

5th method (special adhesives):
- special adhesives to restore heating threads, and russian production
- Reviews are contradictory, someone likes, someone does not
- Instructions for use attached to glue
- It is recommended to add a little iodine to adhesive. In this case, the glue is red and the color coincides with the rest of the threads.

6th Method (Association):
- damage places can be soldered with a soft low-headed POS-18 or POSS-4-6, using zinc chloride as a flux. If a long section is damaged - it is better to solder a thin copper or a silver vein from the wire.

7th method (sawdust and glue):
- Silver sawdust (for example, wwwdered alloy with a contact of the unsuitable power relay) You need to pour into the fold of the paper sheet, add a drop of nitrocea there. Quickly roll the cylinder with a knife with a length of 2 ... 3 and a diameter of 1 mm and impose it to the place of damage. Then - crushing to close the sawdust tightly, and delete too much.

To implement this idea, I used the 2nd method - electrolytic coating.
Here was a break:

he was visible to the naked eye, but just in case I rang this place with a tester ... Then made a device with which copper ions will be applied:

it is done very simply ... I took 3 copper veins from the copper wire of a 2.5mm section, fed them together, put on them a heat shrinking tube, cleaned the copper, wound a rag of a width somewhere 3 cm, secured all this with ties ....

on the other hand, the body contact soldered so that it was possible to connect this device instead of heating. Next, there was a copper vigor, the benefit were the old stocks and the syringe took a little acid from the battery .... (Copper vigoros can be bought in the store where fertilizers sell). There is such a liquid:

Further, everything according to the instructions .... The electrode into a glass was turned off, turned off the plus wire from glass heating, connected a homemade electrode to it, turned on the ignition and the heating button - so "+" appeared on the electrode ...

On the heating strips, the sign "-". Just took the place where there was a gap and saw how a raid from copper was formed ... I note that this method is most effective for small scratches ... I have also reached this place for reliability, the benefit after such a proceeding procedure rolls everything Hurray!
As a result, everything turned out and everything works!