What to make a 0.30 mm dipstick. Adjusting the valves of the vases with your own hands. Adjusting the thermal clearances of VAZ valves with your own hands, with a photo report of step-by-step operations

Valve adjustment Two probes instead of one

When adjusting the valves on the Zhiguli, the instruction recommends using a 0.15 mm thick dipstick, which should come out of the gap with some effort. This work requires skill, otherwise it takes a very long time and does not give confidence in the accuracy of the adjustment. It is best to measure the gap with two probes - "non-passable" 0.16 mm thick and "through" - 0.14 mm. If the first does not enter the gap between the lever and the cam, and the second enters without effort, then its actual value lies in the range from 0.145 to 0.155 mm, which is required. This method is easier than using a single probe.

Make a bracket

When adjusting valve clearances in VAZ-2108 and VAZ-2109 engines, a rather complex device is used at service stations to compress and fix the springs.

But you can only get by with the bracket shown in the figure, performing the work as follows. Rotate the camshaft clockwise (as viewed from the side of the belt) until the desired cam compresses the spring so that the bracket with its bottom edge C rests against the rib of the pusher guide cylinder, and edge B stands on the edge of the pusher itself. While supporting it, rotate the shaft further until the cam stops pressing on the adjusting washer, passing it. Now replace the washer, and then release and remove the brackets by rotating the shaft in the opposite (counterclockwise) direction to avoid the valve against the piston (Fig. 14 ).

This is more comfortable

Regulate valve clearances on the VAZ-2105 engine it will be more convenient if on the pulley camshaft, which has 42 teeth, every 10.5 teeth, starting from the factory mark, make "notches" with punching or persistent paint. This marking makes it easier to install the shaft during the adjustment process.

For accurate installation shaft

When adjusting the valve clearances in Zhiguli cars, the camshaft must be rotated successively by 90 degrees. Measure this angle at

is done approximately by turning crankshaft half a turn each time.

To more accurately install the camshaft, we suggest applying additional marks on its sprocket (at least with a punch), as shown in Fig. 15.

Ready labels

It is necessary to adjust the valve clearances on the Zhiguli alternately in four positions of the camshaft. To find them accurately, make a simple fixture. Cut off the broken distributor cap (as shown in

Rice. 15. Location of labels on the asterisk: 1 - existing label; 2 - additional labels. Other digits - serial numbers of teeth from the first mark

Adjustment thermal gaps do-it-yourself VAZ valves, with a photo report of step-by-step operations.

In this position, mark 4 can be marked on the ignition distributor housing. It should be located exactly opposite mark 1, the piston of the fourth cylinder is at top dead center.

The whole point of the adjustment is to set the gap between the camshaft cam and the valve actuator lever 15 in the position when the piston is at top dead center and the cam is maximally retracted from the lever 15. Lever 15 rests on one end on the spherical head of the adjusting bolt 17 and is held by a spring 16, and others, having a special recess for holding the lever on the valve, rests on the end of the valve. The sleeve of the adjusting bolt 17 is screwed into the cylinder head. Adjustment is made by screwing in (the gap increases) or unscrewing the adjusting bolt (the gap decreases). The adjusting screw is locked with a lock nut 18.

Thus, in order to adjust the valve thermal clearance, it is necessary to loosen the locknut 18, insert a 0.15 mm dipstick between the camshaft cam and the valve drive lever and rotate the adjusting bolt 17, progressively moving the dipstick in the gap until the dipstick comes out with force.

The preparatory work has been completed. The piston of the fourth cylinder is at top dead center. The mark on the camshaft sprocket (round countersink mark) is aligned with the longitudinal mark on the camshaft bearing housing.

We proceed to adjust the clearance of 8 cams of 4 cylinders (valves counting starts from the front of the engine) and 6 cams of 3 cylinders. Oil-lubricated dipstick 0.15mm, insert between 7 and 8 cams until it stops, then when the dipstick moves in the opposite direction, at the same time we shift the dipstick to the right, into the gap between the cam and the 8 valve actuator lever. When pulling out the dipstick halfway, it should already be completely wide in the gap under the 8 cam. To pull the dipstick through the gap, you must apply significant force, the more the better.

• Increased clearances in this timing mechanism can lead to knocking out the working surface of the valve levers and camshaft cams. This happens because the valve drive lever is located cantilever on the head of the adjusting bolt, rests on the valve and does not have an axis that the rocker arms of the levers on Volga and Moskvich have. Therefore, with an increased clearance, at high speeds, shock loads appear.

As an experiment, have been tested thermal clearances installed on manufacturer, on several new VAZ cars. The probe was difficult to insert into the gap and was removed with great effort. Therefore, to facilitate the adjustment, I use a 0.14mm dipstick. The force of movement of this probe is palpable, but we can say that it should move back and forth with a little effort. After such an adjustment, when checking with a 0.15 mm stylus, the required force of movement of the stylus is obtained.

If, when checking, the dipstick moves very easily - you need to loosen the adjusting screw locknut with a No. 17 wrench, and unscrew the adjusting bolt with a No. 13 wrench, without removing the probe from the gap. Turning the adjusting bolt, we constantly check the movement force with a feeler gauge.

If with a 0.14mm stylus there is a tangible effort to move the stylus, but it can be moved back and forth freely, without jamming, hold the adjusting bolt with a key No. 13, and tighten the lock nut with a key No. 17. After this operation, we again check the clearance with a 0.14 mm feeler. If, after tightening the locknut, the force has not changed, check the gap with a gauge 0.15 mm. If this dipstick is forced into the clearance, the 8th cam clearance adjustment is complete. In the same way, we adjust the clearance on the sixth cam. If the clearances of the eighth and sixth cams are adjusted and checked, turn the starting handle half a turn (180 0). The outer contact of the rotor of the ignition distributor will move ¼ of a turn and must align with the mark 2 on the distributor housing. The piston of the second cylinder is at top dead center.

• In this position of the camshaft, use a sharp punch to apply a mark on the camshaft sprocket opposite the longitudinal mark on the camshaft bearing housing. This is to facilitate the following adjustments.

In this position, the clearances 4 of the cam of the second cylinder and 7 of the cam of the fourth cylinder are adjusted.

After adjusting and checking the clearances of 4 and 7 cams, turn the starting handle half a turn. The outer contact of the rotor of the ignition distributor must be aligned with the mark 1 on the ignition distributor housing. The piston of the first cylinder is at top dead center.

In this position, the gaps 1 of the cam of the first cylinder and 3 of the cams of the second cylinder are adjusted.

After adjusting and checking the clearances 1 and 3 of the cams, turn the starting handle half a turn. The outer contact of the rotor of the ignition distributor must match eat with label 3 on the ignition distributor housing. The piston of the third cylinder is at top dead center.

• with a punch, we put a mark on the camshaft sprocket opposite the longitudinal mark on the camshaft bearing housing.

In this position, the clearances 5 of the cam of the third cylinder and 2 of the cams of the first cylinder are adjusted.

After adjusting and checking the clearances of 5 and 2 cams p adjustment thermal gaps valves VAZ considered complete. You can go around the circle again, already focusing on the new marks on the camshaft sprocket, check the clearances on all cams. After that, put a new gasket and close the cylinder head cover. And we carry out the assembly work in reverse order. As you can see, complex vehicle adjustments can be made do it yourself.

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Valve adjustment is a responsible operation, it is not cheap. Owners of many modern cars are saved from expenses thanks to hydraulic supports (hydraulic compensators) - they automatically maintain the required clearance. But the complication of the system reduces its reliability (even theoretically) and maintainability. For example, "Honda", known for its super-reliable engines, is in no hurry to abandon the usual stop screw with a locknut, especially since the factory adjustment is often retained even after 100 thousand km. From domestic cars such stability of clearances can boast only a few copies of "samar" and "ten".

In a mechanism with adjusting washers (front-wheel drive VAZs) in the absence of extraneous sounds it is enough to check the clearances every 30 thousand km. On domestic machines with levers in the timing drive (Zhiguli, Moskvich, Volga, Zaporozhets), it is advisable to do this at every MOT. Such a drive in foreign cars requires less attention (for example, on a Honda - every 40 thousand km).

The basic principles for adjusting most motors are similar. Allow the engine to cool down first. The closer its temperature is to that specified in the repair manual (usually 15–25 ° C), the more accurate the measurements. With increasing temperature, the gaps grow, and many craftsmen adjust them "hot", making an amendment. However, for different engines this dependence is not the same, and the parts cool down at different rates. Therefore, it is better not to rush, but, while it is cooling, change the oil, filters, check the operation of lighting equipment, etc.

On many vehicles, the gap is measured under the adjusting screw and a common set of about 10 mm wide feeler gauges is sufficient to control it. For the "classic" you need a wide probe (photo 1). Narrow can give an error due to the skew of the valve lever. In "Zhiguli" the clearances for the intake and exhaust valves are the same and equal to 0.15 mm (permissible variation is 0.14–0.17 mm). Measuring the gap with such precision with one probe is not easy, but you will not find suitable sets on sale, so you have to train muscle sensitivity. If the 0.15 mm dipstick bends, but does not enter the gap, the valve is "pinched". If the stylus passes almost effortlessly, the gap is large.

Sometimes it is not possible to accurately set the gap - when tightening the lock nut, it "goes away". In this case, it can be left more, but in no case less than what is supposed to be. Many people are confused by the correction table, which indicates the clearances for "hot" adjustment - they are the larger, the hotter the engine. But do not forget that they are given for a stopped engine. On a running engine, the gaps do not increase, but, on the contrary, decrease, since the valves heat up (and lengthen) much more strongly than other parts of the gas distribution mechanism.

A motor with overtightened valves runs quieter, but in some modes the valve may stop closing, its plate will not be able to give heat to the cylinder head, it will overheat even more, etc. This process ends with valve burnout; engine troit, does not pull. Sometimes a piece of a cymbal will damage the piston and cylinder. You can make sure that the valves have been overtightened by removing the camshaft: you will see signs of wear on the back (non-working) side of the cams.

Experience shows that the non-working surface of the cams of the Zhiguli camshaft is not always ideal: the eccentricity (runout) sometimes reaches 0.04 mm. This will become clear if you check the clearance at different positions of the cam - after closing the valve and before opening it. So, having set the camshaft in a position where the mark (hole) on its gear is directed upwards, we check the clearances at valves 6, 7, 8, 4. Turning the crankshaft by 180 ° (the camshaft will rotate 90 °), check valves 7, 4, 3 , 1. One more turn - 3, 1, 2, 5 and, finally, 2, 5, 6, 8. If the results of measurements coincide for all valves - you are in luck. Otherwise, when setting the gap, you will have to focus on the most "squeezed" place.

To adjust the gaps on Zhiguli, special devices with a hour indicator are sold. In theory, they provide greater accuracy than a feeler gauge and allow clearances to be adjusted on a cold engine. In practice, not everything is smooth. So, in our device for the simultaneous adjustment of a pair of valves (photo 2), the axes of the holes for the indicator do not coincide with the axes of the adjusting bolts. As a result, the indicator leg is displaced from the middle of the lever (in the circle in photo 2). In the free state, the lever is often slightly skewed, which introduces a measurement error, albeit a small one. We could not install another device (photo 3) on the engine without modification at all: the screw head rested against the indicator. I had to grind it off, as shown by the arrow in photo 4.

In engines like the VAZ 2108, where the clearances are adjusted by the selection of washers, the adjustment accuracy is much easier to ensure. And the admission for "Samara" is three times more than for "classics". Intake valve clearances - 0.20 ± 0.05 mm, exhaust - 0.35 ± 0.05 mm. If the 0.15 mm dipstick does not fit into the gap between the washer and the camshaft for intake valves, or if a 0.25 mm dipstick passes (for exhaust valves, 0.3 and 0.4 mm, respectively), adjustment is required. To do this, you need a special device (photo 5). We fix it on the studs of the cylinder head cover with standard nuts and washers.

Turn the crankshaft so that the cam of the variable valve is pointing up. Use a small syringe to suck the oil out of the grooves near the pushers (photo 6) - this way it is more convenient to orient the pusher and remove the washer. With an awl or a thin screwdriver, turn the pusher so that the rectangular cutout “looks at us” (photo 7). Pressing the lever of the device with your hand, we recessed the pusher and install a retainer between its side and the camshaft (photo 5). We hook the washer with an awl and remove it with tweezers (photo 8). Do not put your fingers under the camshaft - if the pusher lock suddenly pops out, serious injury cannot be avoided. The thickness of the new washer (it is marked on its surface) is selected taking into account the actual thickness of the old one, measured with a micrometer (photo 9). If the latter is slightly worn, it can be reused when adjusting other valves. For storing washers, a cash register with plastic film pockets is very convenient. We install a new washer into the pusher with the marking down, after which we re-sink the pusher with the device and remove the retainer.

Owners of foreign cars sometimes alter the "eight" device, and sometimes do without it - a pusher lock suitable size... To do this, after unscrewing the candles, turn the crankshaft until the pusher drowns the camshaft cam, insert the retainer and gently rotate the shafts further until the cam comes off the washer. After replacing the washers, rotate the camshaft back with a special key for its gear. You cannot rotate the crankshaft, otherwise the belt will not be loaded correctly.

You should not use smaller washers or grind large ones. The erzats washer in such a responsible and highly loaded unit will quickly wear out, or even worse - it will ruin other parts. In addition, sometimes it is possible to do without buying washers at all, simply by swapping them.

TO MEASURE MORE EXACTLY:

1. Let the engine cool down to a temperature of 15–25 ° С.

2. Carry out the measurements at least twice, turning the camshaft full revolution. If the results do not match, measure the clearances again.

3. Whenever possible, use a pair of probes - “straight through” and “not through”.