Flush report oil filter VVT-i

For some reason I do not understand, would-be photo hosting moderators deleted the entire album.
To hell with them, download the whole file, in Word format: Oil filter flushing report VVT.doc

Theoretical digression.
The VVT-I system (hereinafter - VVTI) has been on all Toyota engines for a long time. Its essence is to shift the valve timing so that the engine delivers maximum power in the entire speed range. With proper operation of the VVTI at the bottom and at the top, the engine produces more power than the same engine with disabled / faulty IWVI.
This VVTI is very important, half to the point that in case of its malfunctions on some cars the brakes disappear, and some spontaneously throttle and strive to crash into the wall.
For Prius, with his Atkinson cycle, VVTI is of itself paramount. Also, VVTI works with constant starts / stops of the engine, its inadequate operation leads to the fact that the car stops stalling or jerks when stopped / started.
The VVTI system consists of the VVTI valve, through which the onboard computer. controls the movement of oil in the VVTI system and the sprocket on the intake camshaft, which directly changes the duration of the intake phase depending on the pressure and direction of oil movement in the VVTI system. There is a filter mesh in front of the VVTI valve so that any valve does not wedge. Between these elements - of course - thin oil channels. For details about VVTI, see the Avtodata website, well written, with graphs, diagrams and drawings)).
When using bad oil or an untimely change, dirt from the oil settles on the filter mesh, clogs it completely, the oil stops flowing into the VVTI mechanism, it freezes in the middle position, such as the car does not have VVTI, and Prius jerks when starting / stopping, consumption increases, decreases dynamics. Also, deposits can be in the valve, jamming it in one position. They can be in the cavities of the IWTI star mechanism, limiting their movements and. thereby violating the valve timing. All this leads to the same shaking.
Please note, I am not claiming that this is the only reason for St. Vitus's dance at 1NZ-FXE, but one of many that should probably be devoted to a separate FAQ-style article.
Now - what to do about it. Everything is as usual, dirty - to clean, broken - to replace.

The practical part.

Cleaning the oil strainer.
This is how the correct filter looks like, we will strive for this result:

Devices and materials.
For parsing, we need keys / head for 10, hex for 6 (bought in Avtomag for 19 rubles). I also have a kind of bit holder handle, like a screwdriver, that also helped.

To clean the lacquer deposits on the mesh, I used this household chemicals - the Shumanit grease remover (Israel), it costs about 250 rubles a bottle, by the way, a terribly effective thing, removes carbon deposits from the stoves at once, your wife will thank you for it.

Instead of Shumanit, you can use this Russian remedy, also works well, but costs 5 times less.

Those interested can, of course, wash with kerosene or carbcliner, but KMC, their effectiveness is much lower.

Working process:
In a 1nz engine, the filter is located on the left, below the cylinder head cover, just below the VVT-i valve.

To access the filter, remove the case air filter, we disconnect there all sorts of wires, tubes (wires to the VVTI valve, to the gasoline steam utilization valve and the evo tube), so that they do not interfere with unscrewing, we remove them to the side.

Unscrew the filter with a hexagon. Tightened very tightly, it is worth sprinkling with VeDeshka. Having unscrewed, do not lose the washer-gasket, it is tricky there. It's not a fact that it's right to reuse it, but I don't have another one, and the old one works fine.

We take out the filter. It is made in the form of a mesh in a plastic case, inserted into a metal bolt, removed together. Sometimes (as they say) the mesh remains in the hole, then remove it from there with tweezers. This is how I had this filter (view from both sides).

As you can see, the filter is very heavily soiled, even water practically did not pass through it, which means that the VVTI mechanism practically did not work. By the way, an indirect way to determine the operability of VVTI is to run the engine on Idling remove the connector from the VVTI valve, if the revolutions have not changed, then VVTI does not work. If they have changed, then it may work .
In general, we put the filter in a vessel and fill it with shumanite, leave it for 20 minutes.

Then, wash off the eaten away dirt with water, see the result.

And on the light:

As you can see, the result is already there, about 50% of it has been laundered. We repeat the procedure with shumanitis for another 20-30 minutes. We rinse. The result is a 100% clean filter.

In the light, you can see that the mesh has cleared completely, outside and inside.

Now it can be dried and replaced. Tighten as tightly as it was, check if the engine is running for oil leaks, you can check in a day. Everything was fine with me the first time. A week later, I made a control check, out of curiosity, if anything was jammed. The result is perfect condition (see first photo).

The valve also belongs to the VVTI, I could not take it out, it stuck tightly there. Because the new one costs 1,500 rubles, and the old one seems to work, then it was decided not to touch it yet. In the internet there is infa, how one motorist had to break off the electromagnet from the valve, and pick out the valve with a special device welded from a screw in order to replace it with a new one. They also write that fuel oil and tar can accumulate in the VVTI sprocket housing, limiting the range of valve timing adjustment. I'll climb there some other time when cylinder head gasket buy.
While I am thinking of washing all the oil channels with Shell Helix Ultra Extra oil, they write that it actually washes well. And with the help of slow flushes before changing the oil, on which you can drive 100-200 km (I saw this at Liquid Molly, Laurel).
Results:
VVTI started working. At the bottom, I did not notice a change in thrust, at the top - a noticeable increase in power by 10-15% (according to sensations). After 80 km / h, the dynamics are better. The car began to drive at a speed of 90-100 km / h with a flow rate of slightly less than 5 l / 100 km. It used to be more than 5 l / 100km. It began to stall (otherwise it stopped completely earlier.) Well, and an unexpected side effect - the shaking stopped when the start-stop was hot, it stalls and starts up very smoothly. In fairness, it should be noted that it quite occasionally shakes, but I think this is due to candles, coils, dirty injectors. Everything has its time.

I hope this creation will be useful to someone.
Sibirsky_Kot.