Additional stove UAZ 469. Modification and improvement of the design of the UAZ Hunter heater, selection and replacement of the electric motor, seasonal maintenance. Modification and improvement of the design of the UAZ Hunter heater, selection and replacement of the electric motor, seasonal

Heater Uaz Hunter is its replacement for a more advanced and efficient heater manufactured by NAMI. It has more advantages than disadvantages, the main one of which is the high price. If you want to save money, then you can increase the efficiency of the standard heater with the help of some simple modifications, which will be discussed below.

Finalization and improvement of the design of the UAZ Hunter heater.

It is worth starting with sealing the heater body. To do this, it must be removed from the car and sealed from the inside with the help of automotive sealant all the corners and mating points of the body parts. And then, preferably, also from the inside, glue the walls of the box with thin, 2-3 mm, sheets of automobile noise and vibration isolation. All this together will eliminate air leaks, slightly increase heat transfer and somewhat reduce the overall noise of the heater during operation of the electric motor.

The next step is to try in any available way, for example, by pasting with a window seal around the perimeter, to seal the lower rectangular outlet hatch of the heater body. This is to eliminate air leaks when the hatch cover is closed, thereby increasing the force of the air flow that will go through the corrugated hoses to the windshield or through the lower side air distributors.

Well, in conclusion, it is necessary to remove or simply bend to the left the rectangular protrusion located from the inside of the heater and partially covering the left outlet pipe supplying air to the windshield. General purpose and the functionality of this protrusion in the design is not entirely clear, but the fact that without it the force of air supply to the left corrugated hose increases, which means that the blowing force increases windshield from the driver's side is a fact.

Despite the plastic box installed under the air intake hatch, part of the rainwater with the hatch cover closed can still get into the UAZ Hunter interior during parking. Initially, as a result of inspection and control during the rain, it seemed that the flow of water droplets into the interior was somehow going through the drain hose of the box.

Then it was assumed that the plastic box itself was damaged. In fact, it was found out for sure that water enters the passenger compartment through the joint of the upper inner iron box of the heater that goes outside the body. There it forms a small side on which the bottom seal of the hatch is installed.

Rainwater flows under this seal, then goes into the gap between the protruding side of the box and the body itself. And from there it immediately falls into the heater housing and then flows through the leaks under the feet of the driver or front passenger. That is, it does not initially enter the plastic box, but bypasses it.

Therefore, the bottom rubber seal of the hatch must be removed, well treated with a body sealant in a circle that has become visible butt seam, and then reinstall the seal. More water will not flow into the cabin through the heater.

Installing the door seal on the cover of the UAZ Hunter air intake flap.

In any case, whether a plastic box is installed on the car above the heater radiator or not, the natural ingress of water and dust into the heater, and then into the interior with the air intake flap closed, must be prevented. Best of all, a plastic cover installed on top of the hatch will cope with this task. You just need to find out in advance whether it is suitable for the Oise Hunter with a lower leash arrangement or not.

If there is no desire to drill additional holes in the car body to install such a lining, then there is a simpler and more budgetary method. It consists in replacing the standard rubber seal of the air intake flap cover with a seal, which is installed from the factory on the inner opening of the doors of the UAZ Hunter, its Catalogue number 3153-6107018 or 3153-6107019. And in fact, this is an ordinary door seal from VAZ 2101, 2102, 2103, 2104, 2105, 2106, 2107, which goes under the numbers 2101-6107018, 2101-6207024, 2101-6207025.

There are no special difficulties when installing such a seal. The only thing you need to pay attention to is that during installation the cover is lifted as high as possible, as far as its adjustment holes allow. Now, when closed, the air intake flap cover is maximally sealed around the entire perimeter and water ingress is practically excluded, even during very heavy rain.

Selection and replacement of the heater electric motor UAZ Hunter.

Normally, an ME236 electric motor with a power of 25 watts is installed in the UAZ Hunter heater. Its capabilities are frankly not enough to properly draw air through the radiator. Even from the low performance of ME236, the quality of the windshield blowing suffers greatly.

It is not difficult to choose a more powerful electric motor to replace the ME236. For example, it can be electric motors 19.3730, 191.3730, 192.3730 and 194.3730 with a capacity of 40 watts, or 197.3730 with a capacity of 60 watts, or 51.3730 and 511.3730 with a capacity of 90 watts. The main thing is that the diameter of the output shaft of the electric motor is 8 mm, so that it is possible to install a standard impeller without alterations, and also that it has suitable studs or threaded holes on its body for attaching it to the heater.

In addition, it will not be superfluous to take into account the load that this electric motor will create on the on-board network during operation and accordingly. So, the consumed current for an electric motor 511.3730 with a power of 90 W is 15 Amperes, versus 5 Amperes for a standard ME236. Therefore, perhaps the golden mean will be the installation of an electric motor 197.3730 with a capacity of 60 watts and a current consumption of 8 amperes.

If you do not take into account the global alterations, then there are no easily accessible alternatives to the standard impeller. The efficiency of the impeller is strongly influenced by the height of its installation on the motor shaft.

If the impeller is installed high and its blades are almost completely hidden in the diffuser, then, all other things being equal, the air flow from the heater will be hotter and, accordingly, the interior will warm up faster. And if the impeller is installed low, then the efficiency of blowing the windshield will increase and, accordingly, it will be eliminated faster. So, here it is necessary to select the height of its installation based on personal preference.

Installation of a remote control drive for the heater valve UAZ Hunter.

The heater turn-on valve installed on the UAZ Hunter allows you to remotely regulate the supply of coolant to the heater radiator, but this possibility, for some reason, remained unrealized by the engineers of the automobile plant.

To correct this drawback, you can independently install a heater control drive from some VAZ or ZAZ model in the passenger compartment. More on this in a separate.

I have already told how I prepared my UAZ for moving from the south to Siberia and promised that I would continue to talk about its alterations with my own hands, and so ...

Operating the car in winter has identified a problem. If overboard is below 30 Celsius, then the front stove stops heating and blowing the glass - there are 2 "embrasures" on the frontal, the side ones are completely covered with ice from the inside, despite the fact that the car is well insulated. An internet search showed that the problem is not new, there are many solutions (and results). But since I was "made" in the USSR, I have a technical education, a technical mindset and, it seems, not crooked hands, I went my own way. So the problem of the stove is poor heating (rapid cooling) and a low air flow rate in the stove; had to be decided radically ...

I put this thought into my head and waited until I got my hands on something that would be useful to me. And now a neighbor (keeps a stall of contract spare parts next to the service station where I work) brought ... It was a stove (more precisely, as it turned out, half - a motor case with a stove motor and dampers) from Toyota (I don't know which one) with an inscription on it ST-215 and work started. The UAZ stove was removed and disassembled, everything was laid out on the floor ...

The UAZ stove was disassembled in half (according to the factory connection), the radiator was removed and given to a specially trained person for soldering-checking))). The new stove came up like a native instead of the back (half removed) native, but there was no room for a radiator. It was decided to move it forward - Bulgarian, peeling, gnuting and ... it turned out the same))). We attach the radiator to used timing belts, of course, everything through rubber (we put everything between the metal everywhere).

We collect everything in a single case, not forgetting to glue everything that is possible with heat protection and I filled all the cracks with ordinary silicone sealant

We check it again and put it in place and again an ambush - the front panel interferes a little ... The grinder will solve this))), we also slightly bend the levers for switching on the bridge and the lowered one. The windows of the "summer" blowing from the old stove remained functional.

And again you need to think ... I did not find the air ducts - I tried to pick up ... It turned out that the pipes for plumbing were 50 - the very thing))) Scheme electrical connection taken on the Internet - now I have 3 fan speeds thanks to the VAZ 2110 stove resistor.

We fill all the cracks with sealant again, wait about a day, connect. We put an additional one on the outlet hose from the cooling unit head. an electric pump (take only Bosch - ours is not) and a ceremonial launch ...)))

Hopes were justified - winter has not yet come, but "sea trials" have shown: at 1 speed the stove blows many times stronger than the old one; at 3 speeds - lifts the cap from the head by the visor))) the radiator is hot - the hand does not tolerate. I left the external aesthetics of the result for later - I'll just put a narrow shelf on top and close the view of the stove motor from the inside. I will also make new dampers through a mechanical traction - I raised the lever and opened it, lowered it - closed it, nothing interesting. Now about the costs:

The electric pump was available, in the store it costs from 2,500 rubles

resistor, wires, 3-position switch - 800r

stove radiator repair, soldering and checking - 500r

sealant, screws, bolts, plastic clamps, etc. - 300r

air duct pipe, 2 tees, 4 corners, transition 100 to 50 - 400r

insulation (foam-forl 10 mm) - 200r

Total - 2200r (excluding the cost of additional electric pump)

That's all, I will not patent - use it)))

And lowering the hatch of the boxes. If the car is not lifted and the hatch is not lowered, the structure will not fit! I needed to seriously recycle the bottom of the stove.
S. Shelikhovsky's warning

Structurally, the ventilation and heating unit (hereinafter referred to as the stove), consists of two parts: upper and lower. This separation is necessary for the convenience of installing the stove on the car.

In the upper part there are: two blower fans from the VAZ-2108, as well as an upper distribution flap, which directs air either to the heater radiator, or directly to the passenger compartment. Also in the upper part there are reflectors for blowing the driver and passenger, as well as "outputs" for blowing the windshield.

In the lower part there is a heater radiator AZLK-2141 ( it is better to buy Iranian - they are made more accurately, according to AZLK (Terra Incognito) they let them through less than ours, and out of 4 standing on my cars none of them flowed (our 3 flowed - were replaced with Iranian ones). But you need to be more careful when buying - there are Turkish ones - they are thinner and the heat transfer is correspondingly less. And on Iranian only positive reviews.) air either to the feet, or to blow the windshield, or to heat the driver and passenger (upper body).

The drawings show (30-40 Kb): side view (with a cut), a view from the salon (with a cut along section A-A), as well as the exterior view from the passenger compartment. All dimensions shown in the drawings are external. I do not recommend increasing these dimensions, as it may be difficult to install the stove on a car. Subject to the specified dimensions, the stove rises without any additional operations. The wall thickness is approximately 5 mm.

As a power frame for the stove, I used a frame riveted from aluminum corners. In the drawings, the corners are shown in red. After making the frame, hardboard was riveted to it (plywood can be used). For the strength of the seam between the hardboard and the frame, I applied glue-sealant. After sheathing, the hardboard was impregnated with waterproof varnish, pasted over with carpet on the outside, and the cavity of the fans was pasted over with polyethylene foam for heat and noise insulation. I will give an approximate list of parts and tools needed to make a stove.

• heater fan VAZ-2108 - 2 pcs.,
• heater radiator AZLK-2141 (it is better to take Iranian) - 1 pc.,
• side deflectors AZLK-2141, right - 2 pcs., left - 2 pcs.,
• stove resistor AZLK-2141 or VAZ-2108 - 2 pcs.,
• control cables for valves AZLK-2141 or the like - 4 pcs.,
• tin (galvanized or ordinary),
• aluminum corners 10x10, 25x25, 30x30, thickness 1.5 - 2 mm.,
• hardboard,
• carpet,
• adhesive sealant such as liquid nails,
• rivets for a gun with a diameter of 3.5 or 4.0 mm and a length of 6 and 8-10 mm.
• fasteners (bolts, nuts, washers M4-M6).

Tool:

• drill with drills,
• grinder or hacksaw,
• scissors for metal,
• rivet gun.

Let's take the following conventional terms: the front part of the stove - the side of the stove closest to the engine; back side - the side of the stove directed towards the passenger compartment. The right and left sides of the stove are respectively located in the direction of the vehicle.

We start manufacturing with the frame of the upper part. Cut 4 pieces of 190 mm from a corner 25x25. They will form the vertical struts of the upper frame. We connect the right and left sides (in pairs) in the lower part with a 30x30 corner (the corner is located: one vertically upward, one horizontally outward) and 175 mm long (this corner will form a plane for connection with the lower part, so you need to attach it at least 3- 4 rivets). Between each other, the right and left parts are fastened from below with a 10x10 corner, 310 mm long (the side is vertically and horizontally inward).

At a height of 55mm, the right and left parts are connected by a 25x25 corner (side vertically up and in). At the same height, a 25x25 corner is attached from the sides (side vertically down and horizontally outward).

Further, the bottom of the fan cavity with a size of 405x175 mm is cut out of hardboard. The bottom should protrude 45 mm to the left of the B-pillars and 50 mm to the right. At the bottom, mark a window for inserting the fan outlet. The fans must be located inside the power cage.

Lateral cavities (45 mm on the left, 50 mm on the right) act as air ducts and do not carry power loads. The back wall of the fan cavity has a size of 420x130 mm. The front wall of the fan cavity is T-shaped and 310 mm wide at 60 mm and 420 mm wide at 130 mm (total height 190). The side walls of the cavity are 175x130 mm in size. In the corners, sheets of hardboard are fastened using a 10x10 corner and rivets.

The holes cut out in the bottom of the fan cavity for the fan air duct must be carefully adjusted around the perimeter. The fan nozzle should fit into this window tightly and without deformation. When installing the fan, you will need to cut off the standard "ears" of the mount, as well as a small "beak" of the air duct bell. (otherwise it will be difficult to insert the fan into the window). After fastening, the cavity of the fans should be impregnated with paint or varnish, smeared with a sealant, avoiding cracks and leaks. Epoxy can be used to increase the rigidity of the structure. The holes for the fan insertion should be covered with polyethylene foam or foam rubber in such a way as to ensure tightness. To increase heat and noise insulation, you should also glue the cavity of the fans from the inside with polyethylene foam 4-6 mm thick, and from the outside with a material such as carpet. Check again how the fans fit into place. The fan housing should be tightly inserted between the vertical walls, and the nozzle should fit snugly into the hole in the bottom. In the future, the fans will be held in their places by a frame made of a 30x30mm corner, which forms the upper fastening frame (which is pressed against the plane of the standard air duct of the car). The space where the fan nozzle exits will be conventionally called the supra-radiator cavity.

To evenly distribute the air flow over the radiator, attach an inclined panel from the fan window closest to the engine to the front lower corner of the frame. It is advisable to fill the cavity between the inclined panel and the flat bottom of the fan cavity with construction foam.

In the event that a separate ventilation and heating control system is used for the driver and the passenger, the supra-radiator cavity should be divided in the middle by a partition. The partition is attached to the bottom of the fan cavity with corners or glued with epoxy glue.

The lateral parts of the supra-radiator cavity should be closed with rectangular hardboard plates, but windows should first be made in them to accommodate the electric fan resistor. It should be positioned so that the air flow from the fan is constantly blowing around it.

Next, you should make the upper flaps. In extreme positions, the damper distributes the air flow in two directions: 1) all the air pressure goes through the radiator, 2) most of, approximately 90% of the air goes up to the airflow, bypassing the radiator, and 10% goes through the radiator. In intermediate positions, this ratio changes smoothly, thus it is possible to direct air of different temperatures to the legs and to the face - hot downwards, cooler upwards. If this operating mode of the heater is not needed, then the upper flaps can be excluded by closing the rear wall of the supra-radiator cavity. The damper is made of tin, and its axis is made of a steel bar 3-4 mm thick (I used the pull of the salon door handle from a VAZ).

The left and right shutters are symmetrical. An exemplary damper profile is shown in the drawing (side view). Cut A is made to "pass" the damper past the fan resistor, protrusion A-B goes inside the fan nozzle, cut B is made in place based on the following condition - in the upper position, this part of the damper should rest against the bottom of the fan cavity. Lugs C are intended for making "loops" - they should be bent around the damper axis and riveted in this position. The damper must rotate on the axis freely and without backlash. Protrusion B is intended for fastening the damper control cable. To exclude the "ringing" of the damper, it is desirable to glue the edge of the damper (or all of it) with rubber.

Next, the air ducts of the upper part are made - under the deflector "to the face" and the side outlet for blowing the windshield or side glass... I made them from galvanized sheet (this material was at hand). It is also possible to make them from epoxy resin and fiberglass.

To make an air duct to the face, we measure the dimensions of the AZLK-2141 deflector box and make a part of the following type from tin (Fig.) The deflector body must fit tightly into the hole. The body of the deflector has a flap, when closed, the air is redistributed (the flow "to the face" stops and is directed to blowing off the glass). In order to avoid unnecessary protrusions, the inside of the deflector body should be lightly sawed.

Next, you should make a side outlet for blowing glass. I made it in the following way: I bent a square "pipe" out of tin, and then turned its edge under the hose with pliers into a round pipe. Thus, we got an adapter from a square section to a round one (for a standard hose for blowing glass).

The two pieces are riveted together and then connected to the top of the stove in the same way. Slots and leaks of joints should be coated with glue-sealant. If desired, the outer surface of the air ducts can be pasted over with carpet.

In the front part of the fan cavity, a hole should be provided for draining water - for this, we drill a channel obliquely from the right side, and glue a hose with a diameter of 8-10 mm into it. Cut the hose from the fan cavity flush. The end of the hose is subsequently brought out to the standard body hole.

Next, we start making the bottom of the stove. To do this, we make a frame for a radiator. The side section of the stove shows the profile of the lower part. For ease of making the frame, I used a 25x25 mm corner, curved in two places. To do this, at a distance of 60 mm from the edge, an incision is made on one of the sides of the corner and in this place the corner is heated to approximately 400 degrees. You can control the achievement of this temperature with a wooden stick (for example, a match), which at a given temperature begins to leave a dark mark on the metal. After heating to the specified temperature, the corner should be cooled in cold water. For about a day, the material acquires plasticity, then the place of heating becomes solid. Further, at a distance of 95 mm, the corner is bent again and cut off after another 120 mm. In this way, the right and left side parts of the frame are made.

Next, you should cut off two pieces 180 mm long from the corner. They form a parting plane with the upper part of the stove and are attached perpendicularly to the 60 mm side of the left and right parts, respectively.

Next, two pieces of the corner of 118 mm are cut off (total height 60 + 60 = 120 - the thickness of the corner is 2 mm). The corners are fastened together, forming a side frame. The radiator must be free to run in width between the side fins. The picture shows the left side. The right one is symmetrical.

Next, the length of the radiator is measured and with a margin of 20 mm, two pieces are cut from the corner 10 * 10 mm. In my case, the size was 310 mm. At a height of 60 mm from the upper plane, the right and left parts of the frame are fastened together with these corners. The corners are located with a "shelf" inward - it is on them that the radiator will "lie".

The side vertical walls are located "inside" the frame, and the distance of 25 mm between them and the outer part is subsequently filled with mounting foam and serves as a support platform for the radiator tanks.

Further, the "exits" of the walls are held together by a corner. Pay attention - its ends are cut on one side and bent down. In the future, the axis of the lower flaps will pass through them.

We make the front wall.

Fill the space between the side wall and the outer frame with "foam". After solidification, we level the plane with a knife.

Next, we glue the side walls with carpet, not forgetting to make holes for the radiator pipes.

We make and screw the air duct to the legs rear passengers... It is a 135 * 55 rectangular tin pipe with a central partition. Given size made for the lateral air duct hose from AZLK-2141.

Further, in the side walls, we make bends for heating the side windows. Their manufacture is similar to the manufacture of pipes for the upper half of the stove.

Next, we make the lower flaps. Each of the dampers in the middle has a sector - it divides the flows into two directions - "to the feet back" and "to the feet forward". To reduce air flow losses, a semicircular flow guide is made on that half of the damper that directs air to the feet of the front riders (respectively, the "outer" halves of the dampers). There is a bend on the side (inner) side of the damper, into the hole of which the control cable is inserted.The cable itself passes through the "bottom", where its shell is attached.

We also manufacture the body of the deflector to the feet of the front riders from tin (the picture shows the right one). The AZLK 2141 deflector body is inserted inside it after "filing". Thus, it is possible to direct the air flow "to the feet" in the desired direction. The body of the deflector itself is attached to the body of the stove with screws, subsequently forming one of the support points of the stove.

After assembly, the lower part of the stove takes the following form:

Further along the central partition we lay a seal and insert the stove radiator. Then we combine the top and bottom parts of the stove, align them and drill 6 holes with a diameter of 7 mm (3 on each side) in the corners of the "parting plane". We seal the slots on the sides of the radiator with a sealant and assemble the stove.

We check its operation - blowing, operation of dampers, etc. After checking, the upper and lower parts are disassembled again.

Next, it remains to put two 30 * 30 corners along the upper edge of the fan cavity (attaching them to the vertical corners with M6 bolts), fasten them with crossbars and mark the holes for attachment to the body. I attached the stove to the standard "ears" using two screws from the VAZ-2108 handrail for fastening (M6 screws about 80 mm long). Washers need to be laid under them. On the right side of the frame, a "window" of approximately 100 * 125 mm is formed. It should be closed from above with a sheet of flexible material (for example, polyethylene foam), attached on one side to the frame cross member. Thus, a recirculation valve is obtained - when the heater is turned on at full power, this valve opens slightly and air from the passenger compartment is partially sucked into the stove, accelerating heating.

A 5-15 mm high seal should be glued on the upper plane of the mounting frame (depending on the flatness of the body shelf under the heater).

The upper part is installed first (do not forget to check the free opening of the recirculation valve), then the lower part is pushed from the side to the right and attached to the upper one.

The radiator is connected as follows - the front lower branch pipe is the inlet, the rear upper one is the coolant outlet. To connect the fans, you can use the standard AZLK-2141 heater harness, or make it yourself. Since the heater fans are much more powerful than the standard ones, it is advisable to make a separate power supply to them through a 30 A fuse and a relay.

It is convenient to use the control knobs from the VAZ-2105 (07) as the knobs that control the dampers. One lever is superfluous there and we just remove it ...

Side view

View from above

Backlight

Rear airflow

The result exceeded all expectations - with ventilation at low speed, you don't have to open the windows at all. When the fan is turned on "at full", the effect of the absence of a windshield is created when driving at speed. In this case, the air flow can be adjusted in direction and intensity. The passenger controls his own side. For example, he can turn on heating only to his feet, and the driver can turn on heating to his feet and blowing "cold" to his face, or you can turn off the passenger altogether. The hand does not tolerate the temperature of the outgoing air stream, and the engine itself, despite a working thermostat of 80 g, cools down to 70 ...

Operation revealed one caveat - unfortunately, the coolant flow rate in the standard version is not very high and the AZLK-2141 radiator, which has a very high heat transfer, cools it down very much. As a result, the capabilities of the stove are not fully utilized. To eliminate this, it is advisable to build an electric pump from the Gazelle into the heater line. You can turn it on to increase heat transfer with a separate toggle switch.

The ventilation and heating system of the UAZ-31512, UAZ-31514, UAZ-31519 and UAZ Hunter cars is very simple and primitive both in design and in principle of operation. Heater with its the simplest system air distribution simultaneously, in one way or another, participates both in the operation of the heating system and in the operation of the ventilation system of the UAZ passenger compartment.

The standard heater for UAZ-31512, UAZ-31514, UAZ-31519 and UAZ Hunter cars is an extremely primitive installation consisting of a box with dampers, which contains a radiator, an electric motor with an impeller and additional resistance.

An uncomplicated system of distribution of incoming air includes an air intake with a mechanical control drive, two nozzles for blowing a windshield, two corrugated hoses and a damper for the heater box.

On UAZ Hunter cars, since 2010, a plastic box has been added to the heater design, part number 3151-8101231, which is installed between the air intake flap and the heater radiator and is designed to collect and drain rainwater entering the heater when open lid air intake flap.

Rainwater entering through the air intake hatch into this plastic box is drained out through a rubber hose that runs to the bulkhead of the engine compartment inside the passenger compartment.

And the water or condensate from the inside of the heater is drained through the second rubber hose located in the lower part of its body and also led out to engine compartment through a hole in its septum.

The installation of the plastic box 3151-8101231 greatly reduced the intensity of the incoming air flow into the cabin when the car was moving and worsened natural ventilation, but rainwater no longer falls on the hot radiator of the heater and does not form steam in the cabin, which settles on the windows from the inside. In addition, this box prevents most of the dust, sand and dirt from getting directly into the heater, and through it into the passenger compartment.

Interior ventilation of UAZ-31512, UAZ-31514, UAZ-31519 and UAZ Hunter vehicles.

The car is equipped with natural and forced ventilation. With natural ventilation, air enters the passenger compartment through open pivoting vents or door windows. While the vehicle is moving, the incident air flow is additionally supplied to the cab through the air intake installed in front of the windshield. The air intake is opened with a lever installed to the left of the heater.

With the windows closed and forced ventilation, the air is blown into the UAZ passenger compartment by the electric fan of the heater without heating it. The air passes through the air intake, the disconnected heater radiator, the fan and out into the driver's foot area and front passenger, as well as the central part of the cabin to rear seats... In addition, air flows through corrugated plastic hoses to the windshield blow-off nozzles.

The intensity of the forced ventilation of the passenger compartment with the windows closed is regulated by turning on the heater electric motor to one of the modes, as well as by adjusting the amount of lifting of the air intake flap cover.

Practice shows that the capabilities of a standard ventilation system with closed windows are very limited and it does not work efficiently, there is no normal air circulation in the cabin, which leads to permanent windows. Therefore, like everything in UAZ, it is desirable to modify the ventilation system in some way, one of the options for such a modification is considered in.

Heating of the interior of UAZ-31512, UAZ-31514, UAZ-31519 and UAZ Hunter cars.

The UAZ salon is heated with heated air, which flows inside the same way as with forced ventilation, but with the heater radiator turned on. To adjust the flow of hot liquid from the engine cooling system to the heater radiator, a valve is used, which is installed on the cylinder head in cars with UMZ-417 and UMZ-421 engines, or located inside on the bulkhead on the front passenger side, in cars with a ZMZ engine. 409.

In UAZ Hunter cars with a ZMZ-409 engine, to simplify the procedure for controlling the heater tap, a remote control system can be installed for it. More on this in a separate.

When the control valve is open, the fluid from the engine cylinder head enters the heater radiator and then is diverted to the water pump, forming a small circulation circle parallel to the main fluid flow in the system. Fresh air from outside, through the air intake hatch, passes into the heater box, then by gravity, or forced by a fan, through a hot radiator, it enters the already heated interior.

The flow of heat air passed through the radiator is distributed to the windshield blowing, heating the driver's and front passenger's feet and through the central part of the passenger compartment to the rear seats. The air flow can be completely directed to blowing the windshield, for which it is necessary to close the front cover of the heater box and the flaps on the branch pipes of the lower distribution ducts.

The amount and intensity of the heated air entering the passenger compartment is regulated by the opening of the air intake flap and the speed of the heater fan. The heater motor switch can be used to select one of two modes of its operation - minimum or maximum fan speed.

The UAZ interior heater works effectively only if the temperature of the liquid in the engine cooling system is at least 80 degrees. In the cold season, to increase the temperature of the coolant, it is advisable to install an insulating cover on the radiator lining on the UAZ Hunter car, and on UAZ-31512, UAZ-31514, UAZ-31519 cars, regulate the air flow using the radiator shutters.

Modification and improvement of the design of the UAZ Hunter heater, selection and replacement of the electric motor, seasonal service heater.

Like any primitive design, in order to increase the efficiency of work, the standard heater of the Oise Hunter needs improvement and some uncomplicated refinement. One of possible options such modifications, as well as seasonal maintenance of the heater and air distribution system, are discussed in more detail in a separate section.

UAZ 469, like UAZ Hunter, is equipped with heating system which is not capable of heating the passenger compartment. Slots and insignificant thermal insulation make the UAZ Patriot cold.

Right choice

In winter, you want comfortable warmth in the cabin

Installation of an additional heater in the rear part of the passenger compartment of the considered models is allowed. The choice of stove depends on personal preferences, tastes and finances of the owner of the UAZ 469 or UAZ Hunter. In any case, the heater configuration is changed. It can be:

• KITB.3221-8110010;
• heater NAMI-4 or NAMI-7,
• stove from Zhiguli.

Auto mechanics recommend installing on this model heater NAMI-4, which will operate on gas fuel. In this case, it is taken into account that, regardless of the choice made, the stove must have a power of 2-4 kW. The advantage of this system is the autonomous maintenance of the temperature in the cabin. The downside is the complicated installation.

Before you start tuning the UAZ Hunter, you need to take into account that the crane must also be replaced. This is due to its inconvenient location and tendency to leak. The correct solution in this case is to insert a new unit into this system... The crane is installed closer to the stove.

You need to cut in the corner faucet in the cabin, otherwise it can get clogged with dirt. In this situation, one fitting is brought out into the box, and the second is connected to a similar element of the radiator. An important point in this matter is right choice details. It is recommended to install an adjustable valve.

You can give preference to the solenoid valve from the BMW 5 series. It must be mounted in the gap between the outlet and inlet pipes of the furnace radiator. This detail is not understandable. To modernize it, you will need to drill 4 rivets in the cover. In this case, you will get a collapsible design that will be easy to clean. Screws are used to collect it.

Main works

Installing an additional heat source

Before installing a NAMI-4 heater or another model, the old stove is dismantled. If possible, the existing heating system is modified by blowing side windows.

For this, a tee, flexible wiring, drills are used. Initially, you will need to make holes in the torpedo by installing side air ducts from KAMAZ or ZIL in them.

If a NAMI-4 heater is installed in UAZ Hunter or UAZ 469 as an additional furnace, then it is connected as follows:

1. Parallel: motor block - electric pump - tee - ball valves - heaters radiators - tee - motor pump. It should be taken into account that each radiator has its own heat transfer and permeability. Upon completion of the dismantling work, the antifreeze passage is adjusted with the help of taps through the heater. This step will allow them to blow in one direction.
2. In sequence: motor block - electric pump - stove radiator - heater radiator - engine pump.

When carrying out tuning, you need to remember that the electric pump works more efficiently when the antifreeze puts strong pressure on it. Therefore, the first element must be installed after the motor block. For better heating, hot antifreeze should go up the radiator, and the remaining liquid should come out from below. This is explained by a change in the density of the substance.

Others effective method UAZ 469 interior heating is a tuning of the cooling system. Its work is arranged in such a way that cooling hot liquid practically does not get into the heater radiator. For this, an electric additional pump is installed. Initially, she is sorted out. Screws are used instead of self-tapping screws. Such tuning will allow you to get rid of the leak.

A new design is installed before or after the stove. The pump is fixed to the UAZ Hunter body with 2 self-tapping screws. From an electrical point of view, this device will operate from the moment the voltage is applied. At the same time, the valve will close the line. Auto mechanics recommend controlling a modern heating system using 2 switches:

• 1st is responsible for turning on the valve and supplying voltage;
• 2nd turns on the pump.

This scheme allows you to block the accidental activation of the pump and the closed valve. In the case of installing a turbine from a Maz's heater, specialist assistance will be required.