Recommendations for lubricating the motor of an automobile stove. Stove motor - can it be lubricated and how to do it? How to lubricate without removing the motor

home / Driving

Currently, manufacturers are trying to make the car as comfortable as possible for a person. To do this, they fill it with convenient and useful functions: heater, seat heating, electric glass lifting drives, air conditioning, cruise control, etc.

But the most interesting thing is that the principle of operation of all these systems is based on the most elementary mechanisms. There are no innovations. As an example, you can take the interior heater or, as the drivers call it, the stove. It has been installed in cars since the middle of the last century. Then it was a motor that drove warm air into the pipes and pushed it out - into the salon.

A little later, fans began to be made in plastic cases, more power and smaller to reduce dimensions with weight and increase productivity. To this day, nothing has changed, only now digital sensors have appeared in the heating, as well as an improved travel system that allows you to blow different compartments of the passenger compartment.

An example of a stove motor

Thanks to innovations, the device can independently maintain the desired temperature in the car and heat it efficiently. But everything is still powered by that very motor. It is the heart that, if it fails, will destroy the entire system. This happens quite often even in imported cars. The main rubbing elements wear out, and the fan begins to hum, creak or even jam. To prevent this from happening, it is advisable to sometimes service the stove motor and know how to lubricate it.

There are now two main types of stoves. They are classified according to the principle of operation:

Stationary. This is the most common system that is installed on every car in mandatory... It is powered by the engine, that is, from its cooling system. Antifreeze, heated by the engine, goes through the pipes to the heater radiator - to the salon. Here a motor is installed, which either blows or sucks in air from the heating element (radiator). It is pumped into the branch pipes, which are diverted to the frontal and side windows as well as at the feet of passengers. When the fan is on, hot air constantly flows through the pipe system and heats the entire interior;
Autonomous. Another type of heaters, which is a serious competitor to a stationary device. The above system is effective only when the engine warms up, or rather antifreeze in the cooling system. Otherwise, cold air will blow. The autonomous option in this moment has a great advantage, since it allows you to heat the interior of even a muffled car. The stove itself is an installation that consumes some kind of fuel and heats air, antifreeze or oil in a special chamber. A motor is installed behind it, forcing cold air into a hot place. From it, it comes out already in a hot stream through the nozzle. This configuration allows operation independent of the motor.

Simplified diagram of the car heating system device

It is worth noting that the latter is an additional function and can be installed both by the factory and by the car owner. It is very good if these two systems are combined.

Also at least important parameter is the savings. In a stationary system, it is observed in the resource of the motor. That is, there is an additional branch pipe in the device, which is brought out to the outside of the car in the form of an air intake. At high speed, it captures the air flow that goes to the heater radiator. Thus, the design allows the electric motor to be switched off during intensive driving and to be heated with one boost.

In an autonomous system, the fan runs constantly, but the savings here are different. The main element in the heating is heated from the burnt fuel, the supply of which is controlled by special sensors. When the temperature reaches a certain value, the portion of diesel fuel, gasoline or gas decreases. The device consumes less resource and gives more heat.

Which of these systems is better is difficult to judge. On the one hand, the heat transfer of the motor is used and thus its efficiency is increased, and on the other hand, an independent system is introduced into the car, capable of working even with a muffled engine - autonomously. We will talk about the first type.

The electric motor, like other devices, has its own resource. If the car is old, then these things often get into trouble. They manifest themselves in noisy operation or squealing due to lack of lubricant. The motor itself consists of a fixed part with magnets (stator) and a moving part with windings (rotor). The latter is installed in the body on bronze bushings. So, if this place dries up, then a creak and an unpleasant sound appear.

Bronze bushing

In general, in the manufacture of such bushings, graphite is added to bronze, which serves as a solid lubricant. That is, in principle, they should work without auxiliary materials. However, if moisture or dust gets into the rubbing pair, then problems are guaranteed. Because of them, the bronze oxidizes and dries up, but after a couple of minutes of operation of the motor, everything is rubbed again. Therefore, the screeching disappears quickly. The reason for its appearance is also the poor-quality material from which the rotor shaft and bushings are made. They can simply permanently rot or oxidize if they were not coated with anti-corrosion stainless components during manufacture.

Bronze bushings

Many factories provide for such a development of circumstances, therefore, the sleeve and shaft are equipped with compulsory system lubricants. This simple fixture minimizes wear on the pair. It is a special material with high absorbency, which is fixed close to the seat of the sleeve. Most often it is a felt ring. It must be periodically impregnated with grease (ordinary oil), which will get on the rubbing parts and reduce friction. If such a felt is installed on your car stove motor, watch it carefully. When noise is heard during operation, most likely the grease in the felt has dried out. Soak it with oil and operate the fan again.

Felt ring

The situation with felt is clear, but what to do if poor quality electric motor? This manifests itself in permanent rust on the fan shaft, due to the fact that the necessary components were not added to the steel during smelting, or the bronze bushings do not contain graphite. In this case, the steam can overheat at the place of friction and jam. Then there is still a risk of fire, which is possible in the event of an overload short circuit.

Such motors will have to be serviced much more often, because grease them only with thick grease (better than graphite). And she, as you know, does not last long.

It is better to lubricate unreliable furnace motors with graphite grease.

Lubrication of the defective stove motor

Although there is another option that many car owners use. You can make a felt ring yourself and rivet it to the motor body, and then saturate it with oil. It will not differ in any way from factory production and will last a long time. That is, you can also ride with a defective fan, but you will have to boggle your head a little. Not everyone will be able to properly lubricate or finish the stove so as not to damage other systems in the vicinity. The best thing, of course, is to simply replace the fan with a new one and forget about the problems.

It is also worth noting that roller or ball bearings can be installed instead of bronze bushings. In this case, you can completely forget about their lubrication, since they all come from the factory for electric motors closed. That is, they are already filled with the required amount of lubricant.

Before lubricating, you must first get to the fan. Most often, it is installed in the passenger compartment, under the main panel. Less often, it can be found under the hood (in this case, it will not be difficult to remove it). To dismantle the motor in the passenger compartment, it is necessary to partially disassemble the panel. But before that, it is better to remove the terminals from the battery, since there is a risk of shorting the wiring. The trim in each car is removed differently, so the recommendations will not help here. Most often, it is attached either with latches or with screws.

When you get to the motor, do not rush to take it off. Disconnect all adjoining wiring first (to gearbox and pneumatic valve). If you are going to dismantle the heater radiator as well, then you need drain antifreeze from the cooling system... To do this, unscrew the tap on the main radiator and find a clean container. But all the antifreeze will still not be able to be decanted. Some of it will remain in the pipes, so be careful when disconnecting.

Car stove motor with removed plastic cover

The motor itself is usually attached with two or three bolts, and can also be in a plastic case, which must also be unscrewed. To lubricate it, you must first disassemble and assess the internal state. You can't rush in this moment! All parts should be detached easily, without effort. If something does not work out, it means either it is not completely unscrewed, or it just stuck. Enthusiasm is misplaced here.

How to lubricate the stove motor

The propeller should be removed from the fan, and unscrewed top cover into which the bronze bushing will be pressed. The second is located in the body (glass) itself. Before lubricating, assess their condition for backlash or depletion. If the rotor dangles in them, then it is better to immediately buy new ones and replace them. Well, if everything is in order, then it remains to wet the felt ring with oil (for example, engine oil) or coat everything with grease and assemble it correctly.

good day everyone .......
As I already wrote here, just now I replaced the stove motor, the motor is essno Kytay, although I was strenuously vparivat it as a Turkish one. In general, after installation, this SS * KA creaked, and even worse than the old one. The question is - can this motor be lubricated, if so, what and how and for how long is it?
Well, to the heap ......... I think to change the timing belt, the question arose about the rollers, and so the catalog seems to be two different sets of rollers for my dvigun. Is it possible by VIN to clarify which kit I have and is there a fundamental difference between them?
Thank you in advance..............
About the stove motor - I will not say, I do not know. But what with regards to the videos, I can say one thing, according to WIN, they must break through exactly, and since the store cannot tell you what yours are, look for another store better, so it will be calmer.
Answer: Stove motor - can it be lubricated and how to do it?
If you have such a motor,

P.S. Thoughts wander in my head on the topic of rooting instead of plain bearings, rolling bearings. I remember that this was successfully practiced on basins. But there ready-made motors (on ball bearings) were sold. Here you will have to farm. But this is still a thought.
Answer: Stove motor - can it be lubricated and how to do it?
If you have such a motor,
That can be lubricated. I was doing this the other day, because my motor is also quite new.
So, in the back, you unscrew two screws and move aside the black plastic case (or whatever it is called), in which the contacts stick out. Be careful with the wires, do not break in the soldering points. Then you remove the plastic cap, it has two latches. With latches, too, be more careful, try not to break. However, when I disassembled mine, it was already without one latch, and it holds on like this, a wire props it up there. After removing the cap, the shaft itself, more precisely, its rear end, is already visible. You remove the spring washer, adjusting washers from it and now a place for lubrication is already open. After removing the spring and adjusting washers, the shaft along the axis can be moved back and forth by 4-5 millimeters.
First, we drop alcohol (solvent, gasoline) there to remove the remnants of old grease and dirt. Well, just in case. I twisted the shaft back and forth, dribbled more, twisted it again. After the alcohol evaporated, he stuffed grease (tsiatim) where the adjusting washers were, dropped a couple of drops of oil. All this was accompanied by the movement of the shaft along its axis, rotation, so that the lubricant would penetrate into the bearing. Then he pushed a small one of the same grease into the syringe, instead of a needle, he put on a suitable tube about 5 cm long (I used a cambric heat shrinkage) and squeezed it out a little into the place where the shaft on the other side of the bearing comes out, there is still such a conical washer. Well, and there are a couple of drops of oil. Again, regularly rotate the shaft, move it back and forth.
Do the same with the front bearing, but there is much worse access to both sides of it, unless, of course, you remove the impeller. But here, too, a syringe with a long "nose" helps.
About lubrication. As I said, I used tsiatim, tk. it is liquid enough to squeeze out of the syringe, but it does not thicken very much in the cold. Oil - so that all this penetrates better, ordinary, household (it turned out to be at hand). You can also motor, I think.
I do not pretend to be an optimized technical process, and I will not say how much this lubricant will suffice. Anyway, my motor hasn't squealed for three days.
P.S. Thoughts wander in my head on the topic of rooting instead of plain bearings, rolling bearings. I remember that this was successfully practiced on basins. But there ready-made motors (on ball bearings) were sold. Here you will have to farm. But this is still a thought.
Click to Expand ...

Thanks for the science !!!
I will shoot one of these days and lubricate, otherwise I already have no strength to listen to this creak.
Then I will unsubscribe .........
Answer: Stove motor - can it be lubricated and how to do it?
Yes, it is not worth tightening, otherwise the bearing will wear out quickly without lubrication. And further. I recommend that you clean the impeller well from dust and dirt - the balancing will be restored (if, of course, it was originally produced there).
Answer: Stove motor - can it be lubricated and how to do it?
P.S. Thoughts wander in my head on the topic of rooting instead of plain bearings, rolling bearings. I remember that this was successfully practiced on basins. But there ready-made motors (on ball bearings) were sold. Here you will have to farm. But this is still a thought.
Good thoughts wander, I have already done so.
we knock out the bushing and run to the bearing store, there they pick it up along the shaft and on the seat, run to the garage, pull in the bearing and enjoy life
changed only at the impeller due to the wear of this very sleeve, the second one was simply lubricated.
Success
Answer: Stove motor - can it be lubricated and how to do it?
Well, I just lubricated the motor.
First, about the main thing.
The fundamental difference between Bosch motors and other "original" ones from Chinese pornography:
In Bosch, the shaft is literally seamed in those places where the bushings are located. The shaft is absolutely smooth, there are no grooves for spring washers for fixing, respectively, the bushings are not lubricated at all, more precisely, there is factory lubricant there, but it is enough for the entire service life of the motor. DOES NOT MAKE OIL ON THE EXTERNAL SURFACES OF THE SLEEVES. If such a motor creaks, it is a replacement and only a replacement. accordingly, this design completely eliminates shaft backlash. There is practically no backlash on my old motor at all.
In a Chinese motor, fixing the shaft and the armature relative to the body is achieved by installing adjusting washers and spring washers. on the shaft itself there are 3 grooves for spring washers - at the rear (end, in the area of attachment contact group and an element where a large spring washer-retainer is inserted for fixing the motor in the snail body) with outside bushings, in the front part (impeller), also on the outside of the bushing, as well as on the outside of the impeller, apparently for fixing the impeller.
In my case, two of the three spring washers were missing. There were only three shim washers and a spring washer at the end. The shaft has a longitudinal free travel of 5-7 mm. When the shaft is pressed from the impeller side, it springs, trying to return to its previous position, however, in the limit position (pressed), the skirt on the shaft touches the sleeve at the end and the notorious creak appears.
What has been done - bushings are lubricated graphite grease, two of the three adjusting washers are installed on the impeller side and secured with a spring washer to prevent a situation when the shaft is displaced towards the end and the skirt starts to squeak due to the contact of the sleeve during the rotation of the shaft.
The motor was installed in place, a strong decrease in the noise level was noted, the creak disappeared. However, this is only for the first 30 minutes of motor operation. I will write about the further development of events later.
Yes, as I wrote in another thread, I cut the snail to facilitate the process of replacing the motor. Sealing of joints today is done by gluing on the mating ends of the cut parts of double-sided tape (1-2 mm thick), which is very well formed and adjusted to bends, etc.
Answer: Stove motor - can it be lubricated and how to do it?
What motor is in the Phoebe package ??? which motors are NOT_original normal, a friend bought Phoebe with an impeller on the shaft, they connected it - he has problems with balancing ...
Answer: Stove motor - can it be lubricated and how to do it?
11 days - normal flight
Answer: Stove motor - can it be lubricated and how to do it?
Two months after lubrication - a lousy flight. He began to whistle slightly. Warms up - disappears. While the low music drowns out the whistle. The motor is not a year old. I will tune in to the bearing, fortunately, there is an old motor for experiments.
By the way, I remembered. Once in the Zarul I read how in the classics they are struggling with this misfortune (there it is a disease). It was suggested as an option to drill a small hole in the front bearing, bring a tube to it, and on the other side connect a small "soft" reservoir (or syringe) with oil to the tube, which should be fixed in a convenient place. Lay the pipe so that the oil does NOT flow by gravity. At the next appearance of the whistle, we squeeze the reservoir, a portion of the oil is supplied to the bearing.
My motor whistled. The whistle began only after about 30 minutes of driving with the kondeem. Mainly at 2-3 motor speeds. Recently I decided to replace both the motor and the radiator of the stove. The motor was bought by the cheapest (fool) JP Group, the Behr radiator (but it doesn't matter). In general, the whole day of the Kama Sutra with the car and hurray, everything works. But the happiness only lasted a couple of days. This new motor also began to whistle. After about half an hour of work, the whistle begins, especially when you accelerate in 1-2 gears (that is, with inertia backward).
There is no desire to remove the stove for the second time, especially since I do not have a garage. In car services, 3500 rubles are asked for such work. What can be done? Or buy the original VAG? Can the old one be restored somehow? He's kind of original yet. Although here they write that relatives cannot be restored. And just do it, is it like a motor whistling or maybe some kind of dampers whistling inside the stove? Damn, I never thought that in China they make such shit, which on the second day already works worse than the original, which is 15 years old.
And yet, to get to the motor from the side of the evaporator will not work. Conde is some kind of self-made and the stove with the evaporator body is connected not by a corrugation, but end-to-end. Because of this, the two of us tried to pull out the stove itself for an hour, it clings to the evaporator housing, somehow pulled it out.
I'm desperate...

The most common in all industries component equipment - electric motor. Grease for electric motor bearings- in this article we will try to help you figure out how to choose a lubricant for an electric motor, what to look for, how and how to lubricate an electric motor in order to extend its service life.

Maintenance of electric motors is one of the mandatory items in the list of duties of mechanical services, one of the components of such maintenance is the lubrication of the bearings.

Despite the fact that the service life of a bearing is made up of many factors, ranging from the quality of the bearing itself, the correctness of its correct installation and the presence or absence of environmental factors, its service life can be radically increased provided timely and correct lubrication.

Correctly selected lubricant, depending on the type of electric motor, its operating conditions, will allow you to ensure reliable and long-term operation. Incorrectly selected grease at the same time threatens the least increased consumption and an increase in maintenance costs, in the worst case, it will cause increased wear, and in the future, destruction of the bearing. This is especially applicable to bearings operating in difficult conditions - with high temperatures, speeds and loads.

The use of lubricants reduces friction on the surface of the roller separator, dampens the shock load of the rolling elements on the cage and, accordingly, reduces the noise during the operation of the mechanism. Also, the use of lubricants contributes to the uniform distribution of heat from the friction surfaces, they are a kind of buffer that protects the bearing from mechanical contamination (the higher the accuracy of the assembly and the higher the speed of its rotation, the more weight this factor), and also protects the metal surface from corrosion.

For the bearing to function properly, it is necessary to follow the recommendations on the application and the norms for placing greases, adding excess grease to the bearing is not only uneconomical, but also leads to the fact that the grease removes heat worse and can increase the temperature of the bearing. Research has shown that raising the bearing temperature by 10 degrees will reduce bearing life by 20%.

For the lubrication of electric motors, greases on various thickeners, for example, lubricants based on calcium soap - the simplest representative of this class of lubricants is ordinary grease, however, greases no longer meet the requirements for modern lubricants and cannot ensure reliable operation of the electric motor.

Another representative of calcium greases is a grease developed during the Soviet era - CIATIM-221.

CIATIM-221 is a grease based on synthetic polysiloxane fluid 132-24 thickened with calcium soap, the grease is specially designed for use in electric motors with a rotation speed of up to 10,000 rpm.

Lithium greases - Due to the structure of the thickener, lithium soap greases are used over a wide temperature range.

We have developed a grease based on Roxol MS lithium soap with the addition of molybdenum disulfide - for use in electric motors at speeds up to 5000 rpm at medium and high loads. Due to the content of molybdenum disulfide, the grease has high antiwear properties.

ROXOL MS grease can be used to replace more expensive VNIINP-242 and Molykote FB-180 greases. temperature range from -30 to +140 degrees.

Polyurea Lubricants - Unique Lubricants in terms of their mechanical and chemical stability, as well as temperature resistance.

How to lubricate the oil seal / motor bushing (sliding)?

Due to the nature of the thickener, greases are classified as ashless, i.e. do not leave carbon deposits, form superstable rheological systems (the lubricant quickly restores the structure after mechanical action, perfectly resists the increase in load, due to which its service life is higher than lubricants based on soap thickeners).

To meet the needs of the domestic consumer, Roxol has developed a polyurea grease with a tetraurea thickener Roxol PU EP... The grease can be used to replace SKF, MOBIL and SHELL greases and other imported polyurea thickened greases. Ideal for difficult conditions work at high speeds, in contrast to lithium greases works up to 10 times longer. At low temperatures (below minus 30 degrees), we recommend using lubricants based on synthetic oils- for example, Roxol PU SYNT grease - which works in a wide temperature range and has excellent antifriction properties.

The choice of lubricant for an electric motor should be made taking into account a number of factors:

Engine operating mode - rotation speed, load on the shaft, duration of the operating cycle.
Working environment conditions - air humidity, temperature, presence of aggressive factors (chemicals, steam, dust, etc.)
The design and dimensions of the unit.

The bearing rotation speed requires special attention the higher the speed, the lower the viscosity should be base oil on the basis of which the lubricant is made.

The shaft load will indicate if a higher load capacity grease (with EP additives) is needed

Long-term trouble-free operation - puts forward demands on the mechanical stability of the lubricant.

At a bearing operating temperature of 130 degrees and above, heat-resistant greases with a dropping point of 190 degrees and above should be preferred.

Thus, the lubricant must maintain its consistency within the operating temperature range, have high mechanical stability, not cause a self-heating effect (i.e., the viscosity of its base oil must correspond to the speed of operation), and be resistant to oxidation.

Consistent high temperature grease based on mineral oil with a polyurea thickener ROXOL PU EP was developed by us for use in electric motors of heavy off-road equipment, electric motors of pumps and fans instead of greases such as SKF, MOBIL XHP, SHELL GADUS, it can also lubricate wheel bearings.

Exhaust Fan Cleaning - Extending Exhaust Fan Life

Installing a fan in the bathroom is a very good idea. Thanks to him, you can ventilate the room in a matter of minutes. Thanks to the fan installed in the exhaust duct, the draft of the hood itself is increased, which is useful when the humidity in the bathroom rises or after a smoke break.

However, over time, especially if people smoke in the bathroom or toilet, the exhaust fan becomes very dirty. As a result, cravings are weakened. In addition, over time, the lubrication in the motor bearings runs out and the fan starts to work poorly, and may even burn out. Therefore, from time to time he should do prophylaxis.

If your fan starts to creak and change the speed due to jamming, do not rush to throw it away, it can still extend its service life. First, remove the fan. It is usually mounted on four self-tapping screws. It is connected to the power supply using a conventional two-wire terminal. It is convenient to connect the fan to a switch so that you can turn it on and off as needed.

And so the fan is very dirty, the engine wedges and overheats, so it needs to be lubricated and cleaned.

Fig. 1. Disassembly of the fan begins with the removal of the impeller. It is fixed to the motor shaft by means of a collet clamp with a tapered thread; the nut must be unscrewed clockwise.

Fig. 2. After the nut is unscrewed, the fan impeller can be easily removed from the shaft.

Fig. 3. Turn the fan with its front side and disconnect the motor wires from the terminals. Otherwise, it will not be possible to remove the engine.

And we remove the engine, it is mounted on two screws.

Fig. 4. The motor is fixed in the fan casing with two screws. To remove the engine, they must be unscrewed. When removing the engine, it must be supported. Wear gloves when disassembling a fan that has just been in operation. the engine is hot. Alternatively, cool the engine before disassembling.

Here is the fan motor itself.

Fig. 5. To lubricate the fan, apply a few drops of oil to the front bearing and rear bearing. It is convenient to use a medical syringe with a needle. It is necessary to drip oil into the place where the shaft enters the engine housing on one side and on the other.

Let it cool down. Then we clean it with a brush and grease it. It takes literally two drops to lubricate the fan. engine oil, not worth pouring a lot. One drop is needed for the front bearing, the second for the rear. Next, we rotate the rotor (shaft) of the engine by hand so that the lubricant is distributed. It is immediately felt that it has become much better to rotate. Now the engine will not wedge and overheat.

Fig. 6. All plastic parts are cleaned with water and detergents.

All parts must be well dried before assembly.

Now we assemble its fan and install it in place.

Fig. 7. Fan assembly is carried out in reverse order.

Electric motor bearing greases

First, the motor is installed, then the clem is connected, after which the impeller is attached. The assembled fan is installed in place and connected to the power supply.

We've seen how easy it is to bring an old fan back to life. In most cases, fan failure is due to contamination and lack of lubrication in the motor bearings. By cleaning and lubricating the motor, you can regularly extend the life of the fan. All the work takes no more than 10-15 minutes, and saves time and money that could be spent on a new fan for the bathroom or kitchen.

Lubricant for kitchen hood motor bearings.

Forum / Ventilation and air conditioning / Grease for kitchen hood motor bearings.

Ask your question on our forum without registering
and you will quickly receive an answer and advice from our specialists and forum visitors!
Why are we so sure of this? Because we pay them for it!

Learn more

The motor on sleeve bearings (which is built into the hood) has worked for 4 years and its rotor does not slip anymore. I smeared it with "synthetics" - it started to work, but it lasts for half a month maximum, then the same thing again.
Perhaps you need some special lubricant?

If the electric motor of the kitchen hood has closed-type bearings and it does not slip or works with noise, then the lubricant must be changed.

How to lubricate the kitchen hood motors so that they do not squeal (grease, oil and lithol do not help for long)?

It is necessary to disassemble the bearing, wash it in gasoline or diesel fuel, assemble the engine and add spindle oil. If the bearing is open, grease can be used for lubrication after flushing.

The author of the question mentioned that there are plain bearings in his kitchen hood. These bearings need to be cleaned and washed just as much as rolling bearings. In general, the entire motor and fan must be cleaned. I use silicone oil to lubricate the hood motor.

Dear guest, stay!

Already many people earn just by chatting on our forum!
For example, like this. Or like this.
You can start chatting on the forum now. Just log in through Vkontakte or register, it will take one minute.

But if you are passing through us, you can still:

Address of this page

<<Предыдущая страницаОглавление книгиСледующая страница>>

§ 4. Stamps for drawing. Clamping force when drawing cylindrical products. Draw folds. Draw Lubrication.

Exhaust dies used for the manufacture of products of various shapes... As a result of drawing, for example, a cylindrical product with a bottom can be obtained from a round flat circle of material (Fig. 126, a, b). When stretching, the mass and volume of the material do not change, but only the shape of the workpiece changes. After drawing, the product has different wall thicknesses. In places of transition from the bottom to the walls, the material becomes thinner.

Rice. 126. Exhaust dies:

a - for the first operation, b - for the second operation

To avoid the formation of folds during drawing on presses of simple (single) action, clamps are used - buffers built into the dies, or pneumatic cushions. For deep drawing, double-acting presses are used, which have an external slider for pressing the material and a pillow for pushing the product out.

The clamping force depends on the specific pressure, mechanical properties extruded material and radius of curvature of the extruded edge of the matrix.

The clamping force when drawing cylindrical products with a bottom for the first operation is determined by the formula Q = (π / 4 * q, where D is the diameter of the workpiece, mm; d 1 is the diameter of the hood, mm; r is the radius of curvature of the exhaust edge, mm; q - specific pressure for mild steel and brass, Pa (kgf / mm 2).

If a spring or a rubber buffer is used as a clamp, then at the initial moment the minimum pressure must be ensured, since with an increase in the drawing depth, the pressure increases. When using a pneumatic cushion, the pressing force is almost constant, which contributes to an increase in the quality of the hood. Deep hood products are made in two or more operations.

The designs of the drawing dies depend on the shape of the product and the number of the drawing operation performed, the ratio of the dimensions of the product to the workpiece. The ratio of the diameter of the product to the diameter of the workpiece is called the elongation ratio, which is determined by the formulas m 1 = d 1 / D - for the first operation; m 2 = d 2 / d 1 - for the second operation.

Elongation factors and correction factors are given in chap. I.

Knowing the coefficient of elongation, the size of the product for operations is determined by the formulas d 1 = m 1 D - for the first operation; d 2 = m 2 d 1 - for the second operation.

The elongation ratio is influenced by the radius of rounding of the die and the punch. The radius of curvature, depending on the thickness of the material, should be: for mild steel -10S, for brass - 5S, for aluminum - 7S.

Tightening ribs are installed on the die matrix for drawing rectangular and square products, which increase the reliability of the clamp. Excess metal in the workpiece is present at the rounded corners where the workpiece is clamped.

Draw folds are caused by large gap between punch and die and insufficient clamping force. When the gap is small, the bottom of the product may be torn off. The established gaps between the die and the punch for drawing dies are for mild steel (1.2 -: - 1.4) S, brass and aluminum (1.1 -: - 1.2) S in the first operation. For subsequent operations, respectively (1,1 -: - 1,2) S.

In fig. 126 shows two different (inconsistent) dies: for the first (a) and second (b) drawing operations.

The dies are designed for double action presses. Punch 1 is fixed on the inner slider of the press, and clamp 4 - to the outer slider. The workpiece is placed on the die 2. After switching on the press, first the clamp 4 is lowered, and then the punch 1. During the drawing, the clamp 4 remains stationary. The pusher 5, exerting counterpressure under the action of the pneumatic cushion, moves together with the punch 1. After drawing, the punch 1 rises first, and the clamp 4, remaining motionless, removes the product from the punch. Only after the release of the clamp, the product is pushed out of the matrix by the pusher 3.

The clamp for the second operation (see Fig. 126, b) has a different design: when lowering it enters the interior of the hollow product, which is drawn to a smaller diameter. With this design, wrinkling is eliminated, thinning at the bottom of the product, as well as the pulling force, is reduced.

Draw Lubrication increases the durability of dies, reduces the coefficient of friction and the magnitude of the pulling force. Lubricant must have wettability, i.e. adhere to lubricated surfaces; preserve their properties during operation and storage; do not cause corrosion (rust) of stamped products and the press; be harmless to humans; easy to apply on the surface of stamped products and easy to remove from them.

For deep drawing, a mixture of spindle oil, grease and talc is used. At a shallow depth of drawing, as well as when drawing spherical products, a soap solution, an emulsion, etc. are used.

Grease composition (%) for deep drawing: spindle oil 40, solid oil 20, talc 11, sulfur 8, alcohol 1 (sulfur is introduced in the form of crushed powder).

Grease composition for shallow (light) drawing: green soap 20, water 80.

At the Gorky Automobile Plant, for example, for complex drawing, a lubricant of the following composition is used,%: spindle oil 52, mylonft 20, talc 18, gypsum 2.5, wood flour 5.5.

For heavy forgings(chalk grease,%): spindle oil 33; sulfided castor oil 1.5; fish oil 1.2; chalk 45; oleic acid 5.5; caustic soda 0.7; water 13. Soluble lubricant: liquid emulsion 37; chalk 45; soda ash 1.3; water 16.7.

Lubrication when drawing with thinning and cold extrusion of steel: copper sulfate - 4.5-5 kg; table salt - 5 kg; sulfuric acid - 7-8 liters; wood glue - 200 g; water - 80-100 liters.

Note... The glue is preliminarily dissolved in hot water, after which the remaining components are dissolved. Copper-plated blanks are stored in a hot soapy solution, from which they are fed to the hood.

Move up to navigation

Every car owner can face a problem when, when the fan of a car oven is turned on, sounds in the form of a grinding, howling, crackling or squeaking sound begin to be heard. The fan may not rotate even if the wiring is completely intact. Is it possible to lubricate the stove motor yourself and how this process fulfill? First, you need to prepare the appropriate tools for such a procedure. We arm ourselves with a Phillips or flat screwdriver (depending on the motor heating system), pliers and wrenches suitable sizes, a cleaning cloth, a hammer, a few drops of engine oil, a little gasoline or alcohol, and new bushings (in case you know their parameters in advance). Now you can start disassembling the instrument console of your machine so that you have full access to the oven fan compartment. When disconnecting the power terminals on the motor, be extremely careful not to break the contacts under the terminals. We unscrew the screws or nuts securing the motor in the compartment. Now you need to remove the blades. In the absence of a nut fastening of the fan blades (when the blades are simply tightly planted on the axle and it is too difficult to remove them by hand), you can slightly heat them using, for example, a construction hair dryer. As a result of softening the plastic when heated, it will be much easier to pull off.

We clean the impeller from the dirt on it, which will improve impeller balancing and reduce bearing wear. Next, you can start disassembling the motor. Depending on its model, we use wrenches or a screwdriver for disassembly. Also, the attachment of body parts for certain models can be carried out using bent antennae, which must be carefully unbent with a screwdriver or pliers. Among other things, you can find models where special removable plastic caps are used to close the bearing locations. To lubricate the bearings on such motors, it is necessary to remove these caps and drop machine oil into specially made holes. If carrying out this procedure does not eliminate the squeak in such a motor, it will definitely need to be disassembled. All the insides removed from the motor and the housing itself should be cleaned of dust, after which a thorough inspection of the bushing bearings. With their increased wear, the motor may jam. Replace them if necessary. The next point is wiping the rubbing parts with gasoline or alcohol to completely clean them from old grease and dirt. When the gasoline (alcohol) evaporates, apply a little lubricating oil to the friction points.

Remove excess grease with a rag. Now you can start assembling the motor by performing the steps in reverse order... Pay attention to the exact location of all gaskets, bushings and other parts in their places in order to avoid the accumulation of dust in the motor and its inevitable subsequent breakdown. After installing the heater motor in place, we connect the power terminals in accordance with their polarity. Make sure that the connection is correct so that the fan does not have to be removed again due to the fan rotating in the opposite direction. When cleaning and lubricating, keep track of where and what you filmed. You can mark everything on paper to remember correctly and not to be mistaken. We hope our advice on how to lubricate the stove motor with your own hands will help you not to make mistakes when performing this type of work.