Is car oil for a scooter suitable. What oil is pouring into a motorcycle. Oil for four-stroke engines

Tool and material: The cape key on 17 (or 19), the capacity 1l, preferably widespread, so as not to overtake, funnel, a little gasoline, rag.

Although this is not supernatural, we describe the process for beginners.

First you need to warm up the engine, 5-10 minutes. At the same time, the oil will become fat, which will make it easier to replace, and also raise and mixes the dirt (when it is present) with butter.

It is also advisable to clean the area around the fuel and drain holes. The fuel is on the left side, next to the generator mokhovik. Drain holes are usually two, one at the bottom of the engine, the other side, on the left (see photo).

We unscrew the lid (it and the dipstick) of the fuel hole. Without this, the oil does not go. Next, slowly unscrew the nut of the drain hole. It is better to unscrew the lower drain to rinse the metal filter. Be careful, - the nut is standing on the nut, which can explode, and the filter, do not lose them. Remember how they are located. We'll have to get dirty a little, it's not deadly)). While the oil is merged, the nut, the filter and the spring gasoline. How to go, you can still shift the moped to the sides, so some more observed.

We twist the nut with the filter and spring. We proceed to the fill of the new oil.

With the help of a funnel fill the crankcase oil. Here carefully, it is necessary to pour slowly, and of course, leave a place to exit the air. However, watch not to overflow the crankcase. The first 700 ml can be pouring boldly, then carefully - on different mopeds it takes from 800 to 1000 ml of oil. It is necessary to exclude both lack and excess oil. Excess can be removed using an empty tube from under the transmission oil - these tubes are usually with a long nose, just suitable for our case. Check the level of PCU.

Ready. Periodically check the level, pour if necessary.

Replace frequency Look on the manual. If it is not, usually the first oil replacement is done after the first 300 - 500 km. The second after 1000. Then every 2000 - 4000. (On my Baotian every 3000 km).

When the motorcycle season came, the motorcycle owners will come back to their Iron horses, and think again, what kind of oil in the motorcycle to pour, how to make it right and will the car suitable?

Car oil and motorcycle

Turning from a motorcycle to a car and vice versa, many believe that the oil should be applied differently in one and other technique, as it works in it differently.

Three oils apply in the car:

• for the engine;
• for gearbox;
• for the rear axle.

In modern motorcycles, almost all models are all functions on one single oil, as the engine, and KP, and the clutch are located in one block.

It is said that in cars the oil only serves as a protective barrier, preventing various mechanical impacts. And in motorcycles, in addition, it should cool the motor and prevent the thermal refusal, since due to the huge speed of rotation, a large amount of energy is produced, causing strongest heating.

Motorcycle oil

To cope with it, the oil must be adapted to work in extreme conditions. The viscosity is obliged here to persist, even if the temperature changes dramatically. The oil must be, on the one hand, easy to flow through narrow holes, and on the other - viscous to cover the quickly moving parts.

Viscosity means the ability to resist dissecting and flow. The liquid will be less fluid and more resistant to dissect when the viscosity is large. And vice versa. At less becomes more fluid and less sustainable dissection.

When the engine is running, its grinding parts are trying to oust oil due to friction on each other. But if the viscosity of the oil is quite good, the liquid passes through the holes slowly, and the contacting elements have the ability to recover.

The instructions for the motorcycle indicate the types of oils that are recommended for the engine.

All-season

One of the most popular among them is SAE 10W40. Oil belongs to all-season.

10W means viscosity indicator at a temperature of -40 degrees Celsius.

40 also denotes viscosity, but at a temperature of 100 degrees Celsius.

This motorcycle oil at low temperatures manifests itself as an easy, and at high has its own standard appearance. The idea of \u200b\u200bit is to have low density during the cold start, and after heating, it retained its viscous properties. Before the appearance of this type of type, the engine has always been in a state of increased wear, therefore, one thing is usually poured for the winter, and the other for the summer.

When operating, you need to remember that the motorcycle oil manifests itself non-linear as he warmed. Usually manufacturers are about it silent. Meanwhile, this is the second most important parameter to which you want to pay attention to after viscosity.

Given the guidance on the operation of the vehicle, for motorcycles should be chosen primarily with common sense. For example, if the usual ride is carried out at a temperature of +35 degrees Celsius, then a more dense oil 15W15 is suitable. So the engine will be better protected. But in the spring just a good option will be 10W40 (as less dense).

If the viscosity level is small, and the motor at high temperature is strongly heated, the oil dishes the engine elements is particularly easy, and therefore it is susceptible to rapid wear. In this case, it is necessary to pour the level oil above the recommended one.

Since when warming up the power of the engine is not very different, many riders for the maintenance of the unit and the CP poured the oil for a motorcycle even greater viscosity when operating on high temperatures.

Or maybe still automotive?

The first thing that rushes into the eyes when compare automotive oil And the oil for a motorcycle is the price. Motomaslo is much more expensive than automotive.

According to the manufacturers and many owners vehicle, Automal spoil the motorcycle aggregates, and he disappears the clutch.

But there is another opinion, according to which some conditionally negative impact really happens. But this concerns only the clutch. And the whole negative comes down to the fact that modern oils Very strong cleansing properties that lead simply to slip clutch. But it is possible to use less modern oil!

Classification

Oils have a specification. For example, by American aPI classification As new products appeared, their indices changed: SA, SB, SC, SD and so on for their letter for each generation. Modern car oils have already reached the SN indexes, but the motomasla stopped on sh.

If you view and other classifications, it will be detected by an amazing case: the motorcycle oil is simply no different from the car!

But why then have to overpay? Maybe all the case in the psychology of buyers and large costs of manufacturers for smaller packaging? It is worth thinking about it.

A lot of questions and disputes arise about which oil is suitable for the moped of alpha or for low-intensive Chinese motorcycles, for example of Stels Delta 200, Reiser Magnum 200 and the like. Therefore, it is worth understanding what oils differ and why some of them do not suit your Chinese motorcycles.

To begin with, it should be immediately clarified that the term "Motomau" is not in any of the manure instructions for motorcycles. You can check in your instructions on Alfa - there is no word "Motomo". There are only specifications that must fit the oil fill and its characteristics.

The oil is divided into three large groups:
- Mineral:
- semi-synthetic;
- synthetic.

Alfa Moped engines were copied with Japanese Honda Super Cub. Do you know when he started to be produced in Japan? The first sample came out from the conveyor in 1958, that is, more than 50 years ago. In those times, what is a semi-synthetic, synthetic did not know little even in Japan, then there was one oil - mineral. Therefore, the engines of your mopeds are not demanding of the quality of the oil.

In Alpha, it is quite possible to pour mineral water or semi-synthetic. Synthetics will only go to harm - it is mainly intended for lubricating high-robous forced engines (according to the type of sportbikes) - they have completely different modes of operation and oil requirements. In the low-intensive Chinese motorcycles, it is desirable to pour semi-synthetic.

So with the type of oil figured out, now about viscosity. Oil happens thick and not very. This is very important parameter To reduce engine wear. In general, the viscosity of the oil is selected by temperature during the operation of the moped or motorcycle. Oil viscosity designations are, for example 5W40, 10W40, 5W30, 10W50, etc. The first digit before W denotes the viscosity of the oil in the cold engine, the second in heated. The smaller the first digit, the fluctuate oil, the viscosity is less. You will not ride in winter in -30? Then it makes no sense to pour liquid oil - in the summer it will be like water and will not provide good lubricant Engine. Therefore, the best option There will be an oil with a viscosity of 10W40, it is also most common.

Now let's figure it out with oil standards. You probably noticed that the canister is written on the API SL, Jaso Ma and other foreign letters. Do you know why they are there? This is just the specification of the oil, for which it should be selected for your technique.

For engines of motorcycles with wet clutch (this is now just about Mopeds Motorcycles) are important two specifications - API and Jaso.
The API standard is one of the most famous classifications of motor oils. It was developed in 1947. But this is not important, the most important thing is that the standard of oil is denoted by two letters, for example SL, SJ. There are entire tables with a description of each group of oils, but I will not go into details, I will only say that for our technology a API SL, API SJ or API SH.

Another standard that is important to us is Jaso. This standard came up with the Japanese organization of automotive standards in 1994. You can say it happened quite recently. For motorcycles that use wet clutchIt will be better if Jaso Ma, Jaso Ma-1 or Jaso MA-2 be written on the canister. If Jaso MB is written on the canister - then such an oil is not suitable. If on the canister about the JASO standard not letters, it means that the oil is not certified in accordance with this standard, nothing terrible and without it has been driving until 1994.

Now about the firms, let me forgive me the fans of the Motula ... The most expensive oil is the most expensive and most common, oddly enough. And what is the oil for motorcycles? Well, of course, everyone's favorite, tasty smelling Motul. It's inadequate price tag, and taking into account the growth of the course so generally cosmic. If you have a lot of extra money - then I have nothing against - buy and leut it into your mopeds. Just take from official dealers.

If there is not much money, it is quite for a moped alpha or a low-fiber Chinese motorcycle, any automotive oil with a viscosity index 10W40 and the standard API SL, API SJ or API SH. For example, such requirements performs grade semi-synthetic ... LUKOIL. Yes, yes the most inexpensive LUKOIL. The period of changing the oil at mopeds is 1000 km, at motorcycles 2000 km. So, for this period, expensive oil will not work completely, and you will salt good oil. Such a small replacement interval is caused by the fact that in our mopeds and most of the low-fiber Chinese motorcycles are not provided with a filter. thin cleaning Oils, there is only a grid that can clean the oil from the metal chips of the bolts and nuts that will be in oil.

In general, in conclusion - you can pour an expensive motorcycle (the motor will not be worse) or use the automotive corresponding characteristics (nothing terrible will not happen). It's like a joke - "If the pig feed oranges - she will not appreciate it anyway, but it will not be bad for it." Now look at how much the piston is on your moped assembly, and divide this cost on the price of oil. How much will the replacement? Two, three, four? It turns out, you will spend more money on the oil than the CPG, and the resource using conventional automotive oil will be about the same, can be 5-10% less.

The most important thing is better if at least some auto / moto oil is flooded in the engine than if you ride without it. Therefore, do not be lazy to check the oil level with each train and periodically make it replacement.

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A lot of questions occur in people who first serve the moped on their own.

In the instruction manual prescribed to use oil for four-stroke engines, SE, SF API, SAE 15W40 viscosity.Let's try to figure out what it means.

Gearbox

The instructions are written, which oil should be poured into the engine, but there is no word about the gearbox. Although we all accustomed that the box is filled transmission oil, usually more dense than in the engine.

Owners of the mopeds of Alpha (and the like), you need to know that transmission, engine and clutch are in one (general) Carter and lubricated with the same oil. So do not think about what kind of oil and where to pour. It is one!

Oil for four-stroke engines

This phrase means it is impossible to pour into the moped engine oil for two-stroke engines. The thing is that the two-stroke engines have a completely different principle of engine lubrication: they are mixed with gasoline in certain proportions (either in the gas tank, or with the help of a special oil pump), and then together with the gasoline arrives at the engine crankcase, lubricating bearings crankshaft and connecting rod, as well as a cylinder mirror. The mixture is then entered into the combustion chamber, where the oil burns together with gasoline and is output from the engine through exhaust pipe. In this way two-stroke oil Not calculated for long-term operation, it is "disposable".

In most four-stroke engines (and the engine has four-stroke alpha), the oil is poured into the engine crankcase and lubricates the parts or spraying (due to rotating engine parts), or under pressure (which creates a maswana pump). Also oil helps engine cooling. Therefore, the oil in the four-stroke engine must withstand a long service life at high temperatures.

Some owners ask: "Do I need to add oil to gasoline?". Remember: for mopeds Alpha (Delta, Sabur, Veto, etc.), it is not necessary to add oil to gasoline!

API classification

API is a system of classification of automotive oils in quality. Oil designation in this system consists of Latin letters.

The first part can be either S (Service) - oil for gasoline engines, C (Commercial) - oil for diesel engines, EC (Energy Conserving) - Energy-saving oils.

The next letter is the designation of the oil generation. The designation is in alphabetical order, i.e. The letter further from the beginning of the Latin alphabet - the one-generation of the oil above (operational qualities is better).

Categories of API SA, SB, SC, SD, SE, SF, SG today are invalid, the SH category is considered to be conditionally acting. Thus recommended in the instructions for moped oil categories SE and Sf. For sale now not to find. What is the oil then buy? The answer is to buy any, next on the alphabet (SJ, SL, SM, SN), it will not be worse than the recommended one in any case.

SAE classification

The last edition of the classification divides motor oils on 11 classes: 6 winter (0W, 5W, 10W, 15W, 20W, 25W) and 5 year old (20, 30, 40, 50, 60) viscosity classes. Letter W. (Winter - Winter) in front of the number means that the oil is adapted to operation at low temperature.

Most of the motor oils present today are all-season, i.e. satisfy the requirements for viscosity both at low and high temperatures and have a double designation, for example, as in our case: SAE 15W-40. The first digit characterizes the pumpability of the oil at low temperatures. If the first digit is subtracting 35 - it turns out the minimum temperature at which safe cold launch Engine. The second digit is an oil viscosity indicator at 100 degrees Celsius. If the second digit is added to 5 - the maximum allowable air temperature in which oil can be operated.

Synthetic, semi-synthetic or mineral water?

It is believed that synthetic oils The highest quality and almost prolong the life of the engine. On the other hand, as I wrote above - now any oil that has passed the certification according to the API standard is suitable for operation in the engine of the alpha moped engine.

I chose for myself golden middle: Lew to the moped semi-synthetic imported manufacturers, because Price liters semi-synthetic oil Now it is not very different from the price of mineral.

But only now you can rarely meet on the shelves of semi-synthetic 15W-40 stores. This designation sells mainly mineral oils. Therefore, I pour into the engine oil 10W-40 as the most close to the manufacturer's recommendations.

How often do you need to change the oil in the moped?

In the instruction manual, the first oil change (on a new moped) - after 500 kilometers of run (T-1). The second replacement is at 1,500 km (T-2). The third replacement is at 3000 km. (TO-3). Next, every 2,000 km. But there is an indication that if the moped is operated at elevated loads and in the conditions of dusting - it is necessary to change the oil (do something).

Personally, I am changing the oil every 1500 km.

Hello.

In the issue of motorcycle engine oils, people are divided into two types. Some, without bothering, pouring into your motorcycle what a friend said (or flooded in a motor-axervice), others, on the contrary, bother too much, fighting on the forums in the name of the truth, proving their rightness of boring charts of a breakdown of oil film and thermal stability. We will be in the middle somewhere in the middle, we'll figure it out in the question, but without unnecessary scoring wisdom heads.

In the picture to the article we have two Repsol girls, but we will not talk about the brands of manufacturers for motorcycles today, and for what reason. The fact is that any branding is primarily a set of economic relations, any motorcycle roller will tell that it is Motul / Repsol / Ravenol / Belray, etc. He pours into the motorcycle, and everyone recommends everything else. But it is obvious that when selecting oils of the same properties, but with another label, its motorcycle will go in the same way, not slower and no faster, and the wear indicator is likely to remain at the same level. Indeed, most modern motorcycle oils comply with certain international standards. For racing motorcycles, it is possible and makes sense to bother with graphs, for the detection of the best indicators within one standard, but for everyday ride it is clearly unnecessary. Let's see what kind of motorcycle oils are fundamentally different and we will understand, it also does not make sense to deeply delve into the question.

What oil pour into a motorcycle, motorcycle or car?

First you need to understand that in motorcycle oil, so that it is generally called a motorcycle? To answer this question, it is necessary to understand the design of the motorcycle, namely the crankcase and the oil system. The fact is that all motorcycles can be divided into four types, with minor exceptions, but it is already exotic:

1. Wet Carter or Dry Carter, Clutch in Oil Bath. These are the most common designs. The oil is poured into a single crankcase (or the marvelous), splashes there and lubricates everything at once: both piston, and grip, and gearbox. Attention on a wet or dry crankcase, I only drew only to illustrate: it doesn't matter whether the oil is poured into the carbon or in the crankcase, the clutch is still lubricated them. Accordingly, the wet crankcase stands on most road motorcycles, dry - on most normal entrores and crossbs.
2. Dry clutch. Like Dukati, for example. The oil lubricates only the piston and gearbox mechanism.
3. Separate Carter when the oil is poured into two containers, one of which is responsible for the lubricant of the piston, and the clutch is bullied. This design occurs on Honda motorcycles, and on CRF450, in particular.
4. Two-strokes. Oil is served by B. fuel mixture A separate system or using premix (plucked into the tank and squeezed). And the box and clutch have a separate closed crankcase.

Please note that I spent the classification of motorcycles, depending on the type of crankcase and clutch, since it is the clutch and affects most of the oil. First, in order for the motorcycle clutch does not slip, the manufacturers do not add some antifriction additives there. Most often, it puts motorcycle oils initially class lower than automotive, in their lubricant properties. Secondly, Ferodo from clutch frictions, in case the same oil lubricates and grip, and piston, faster pollutes the oil, in addition to its natural wear.

From this logically follow two outputs:

1. You can pour into a motorcycle automotive oil if your motorcycle refers to 2 or 3 categories, it will not be worse from it. If your motorcycle refers to 1 or 4 categories, then you can also, but it is possible to slip the clutch, which will entail, naturally, replace the oil. I poured car oil into my motorcycles and I continue to pour into the box of my two-stroke the regular car transmission, and never experienced clutch difficulties, although always loved to ride the rear wheel. In addition, sometimes there are opposite cases when the motorcycle feels perfectly when using the automotive motor oilbut it is worth pouring any Motul 7100 - immediately starts the clutch (on different modifications BMW F650 This glitch is sometimes found.)
2. To increase the motorcycle engine resource, you need to compensate for the initially lower class of motorcycle oils by its more frequent replacement. That is why the interservice intervals of most motorcycles are shorter than that of cars. And it is better not to exceed them.

Which oil to fill in a motorcycle: synthetic or semi-synthetic?

Manufacturers of motorcycles in their manuals almost never indicate which oil pouring, synthetics or semi-synthetic. Manufacturers of motor oils are stably produced by semi-synthetic for motorcycles. I think that it should be repeated from ordinary logic and expediency to pour an expensive oil into an already inexpensive motorcycle, because, driving motor oils on the sites of four major IPONE manufacturers, Motul, Bel Ray and Castrol on different models of motorcycles and years of release did not notice any dependence . Moreover, it is often an alternative to the same motorcycle, you can pour both synthetics and semi-synthetic.

I think in the fresh motorcycles leut the synthetics, in the ushawki and necrocycles you can already semi-synthetic.

What oil to pour into specifically my motorcycle?

If the motorcycle is officially supplied to Russia, just call the nearest dealer and ask. For all sorts of fibroids, intra-sorted motorcycles and other smuggling, this method will not fit. Therefore, we climb into the manual and see the tablet of the oils and choose, relying on the standards that are indicated there.

SAE is a viscosity attached to the temperature at which the motorcycle is used. 10w40 in our medium strip climate is usually enough for most motorcyclists.

The API standard is an American standard that establishes certain quality criteria, based on various characteristics, from oxidation and nagar to ecology and efficiency. For motorcycles, the standard of the SG API is often written and above, which most often fits into the template of almost any average engine oil for gasoline engines.

The JASO standard is the Japanese standard, the criteria are the same, but slightly less sharpened on the ecology. It is the most clear standard of motorcyclist motorcyclists, since it has special MA and MB standards - this is oil for four-stroke motorcycles with a different friction coefficient. The friction coefficient is just determining whether the grip will be slipped on your motorcycle or not. MB is a low friction coefficient, MA1 - medium, MA2 is high. The most common Motul 7100 has a MA2 coefficient. You can try something better, but there is a possibility that there will be questions with the clutch. And for Jaso two-stakeholders in general, jokes: there are two-stroke oil for developing countries (FA) and oil that meets the requirements of Japan (FB, FC, FD in ascending order). Accordingly, it is better to use FD.

Although there is an option and easier: we climb on the site of any major producer of oils and use the oil reflection.

Myths about motorcycle oils.

We will analyze several common belts and rumors about motorcycle oils, with whom everyone probably came across.

1. If you ride only dumplings, the oil can be changed less frequently.

Definitely, yes, since, as we already understood, the most oil suffers from driving around the city and in all sorts of strokes, when the motor with constant accelerations is experiencing heavy loads, and the clutch works almost constantly due to frequent gear shift. And on the dallenka scored the cruising - and gazash himself exactly and without switching. Veterans confirm this idea, by the way. But just do not get drunk.

2. Conspiracy Motul and counterfeit Motul.

At once, two myths about motorcycle oil of one of the most famous manufacturers. The first myth of the conspiracy is Motul is due to the fact that "in which motorwear will not come, everywhere I am poured Motul 7100 10W40." Indeed, most often it is poured, although there are also exceptions recently. Of course, this is not a conspiracy, simply, firstly, the Motul 7100 synthetics can be pouring, in most cases anywhere, and it will go beyond the service zone and will ride on. Brandly normal universal oil for most motorcycles. And secondly, Motul is very easy to purchase in bulk, dealers are fully, it is not necessary to search for them, but discounts for wholesale decent. Tritely profitable, but this is the law of the market, and not a conspiracy.

I did not meet in my life in my life in my life, although I get in a moto-topic from a dozen years. Of course, I never bought 7100 on the backyards of garages, but, in addition, I want to note that fake Motul is much more difficult than any other oil without color and odorless, at a minimum, because you have to fake more and smell. In addition, the label on bottled bottles with them is changing quite often, and this is an additional factor that makes fake.

3. Cannot mix semi-synthetic and synthetic oil.

I mixed up - normal flight! But Mixed different viscosity one manufacturer and forced. In general, in technical properties motul oils It is specifically indicated that the oil can be mixed with synthetic, mineral oils and semi-synthetic. In general, I think that in a forced situation, it is possible to mix different engine oils, but I did not specifically do this.

EVENTUALLY:

If you use a motorcycle just for road trips common use, do not wise and pour any synthetic motorcycle oil of a well-known manufacturer. If you want to frustrate, take advantage of the automotive engine oil, which is now almost every manufacturer on the official website. In both cases, just try to observe the service intervals.

If you drive racing or on motorcycles - then wisely!