How to check the cooling fan on the VAZ 2107. Diagram of connecting the cooling fan of the VAZ. On the forced inclusion of the fan
Forced by blowing the cooling radiator applied in all without exception automotive engines internal combustion. This is the only option to avoid overheating. power plant. That is why it is necessary to periodically check the operation of the electrical circuit on the incorporation of the radiator fan.
Cooling fan VAZ 2107
In the power plants of the first "seven", the radiator fan was installed directly on the tree of the water pump. Like a pump, it was actuated by belt transmission from pulley crankshaft. This design at that time was used on other cars. It almost never failed, but it was impossible to overheat with it. However, she had one disadvantage. Constantly cooled power unit very slowly warmed up. That is why AvtoVAZ designers changed the principle of forced blowing, replacing the mechanical fan to electrical, and with automatic inclusion.
Why need an electric fan
The fan is designed for the compulsory blowing of the cooling radiator. During the operation of the power plant, the liquid refrigerant through the opened thermostat enters the radiator. Passing along its tubes equipped with thin plates (lamellas), the refrigerant cools off the heat exchange process.
When the car moves at speeds, the heat transfer contributes to the oncoming air flow, but if the car costs a long time, or it goes slowly, the cooling liquid does not have time to cool. At such moments, the engine from overheating is the electric fan.
Design device
The radiator fan consists of three main elements:
The rotor of the electric motor is equipped with a plastic impeller. It is she, rotating, creates a directional air flow. The device engine is installed in a metal frame with which it is attached to the radiator body.
As the electric fan turns on and works
The process of incorporating the fan in carburetor and injection "Sexok" is different. In the first to turn on its inclusion, the mechanical temperature sensor, mounted in the lower part of the right tank of the cooling radiator. When the engine is cold, the sensor contacts are open. When the refrigerant temperature is raised to a certain level, its contacts are closed, and the voltage begins to be fed to the electric motor brushes. The fan will continue its work until the cooling fluid cools and the contacts of the sensor will not open.
In the injection "seven", the inclusion scheme of the electric fan is different. Here everything controls the electronic control unit. The source signal for the ECU is the information coming from the sensor installed in the engine output from the engine (near the thermostat). After receiving such a signal, the electronic unit processes it and sends a command to the relay that is responsible for turning on the fan motor. It closes the chain and takes electricity to the electric motor. The device will continue until the refrigerant temperature drops.
And in carburetor, and in injection "seven", the protection of the electric fan chain is carried out using a separate fuse.
Electric motor fan
The electrical engine is the main device node. Two types of motors were used in the VAZ 2107: ME-271 and ME-272. According to characteristics, they are almost identical, but as for the design, it is somewhat different. In the engine ME-271, the housing was stamped, i.e. inseparable. It does not need periodic maintenance, but in the event of a malfunction, it can only be replaced.
The device and characteristics of the fan electric motor
Structurally, the engine consists of:
- hull;
- four permanent magnetsglued around the case inside the case;
- anchors with winding and collector;
- brush holder with brushes;
- ball bearing;
- support sleeve;
- back cover.
The ME-272 electromotor also does not need service, but in contrast to the previous model, if necessary, it can be partially disassembled and try to restore it. Disassembly is carried out by turning out the tie bolts and removing the back cover.
In practice, the repair of the electric fan is inappropriate. First, parts to it can only be bought only in use, and secondly, a new device assembly with an impeller costs no more than 1,500 rubles.
Table: The main technical characteristics of the ME-272 electric motor
Faults of the cooling fan and their signs
Taking into account the fact that the fan is an electromechanical node, the work of which is provided by a separate chain, its malfunction can be manifested in different ways:
- the device does not turn on at all;
- the electric motor is started, but it works constantly;
- the fan begins to work too early, or too late;
- during the work of the node, extraneous noises occur, vibration.
The fan does not turn on at all
The main danger that breaks the cooling fan is overheating. It is important to control the position of the arrow of the temperature pointer sensor and feel the moment of turning on the device. If the electric motor does not turn on when the red sector is reached, the fault is most likely a malfunction or the device itself, or its elements of its chain. These breakdowns include:
- failure of an anchor winding, brush wear or electric motor collector;
- sensor malfunction;
- cliff in the electrical circuit;
- fuse brave;
- breakdown relay.
Permanent fan work
It also happens that the engine motor turns on regardless of the temperature of the power plant and is constantly working. In this case, there may be a place:
- circuit in the electrical circuit of the fan;
- failure of the sensor;
- switching relay in the on position.
The fan turns on early, or, on the contrary, late
The late inclusion of the fan indicates that the characteristics of the sensor for some reason have changed, and its working element reacts incorrectly to temperature changes. Such symptoms are characteristic of both carburetor and injection "seven".
Foreign noise and vibration
The operation of the cooling fan of any car is accompanied by a characteristic noise. It creates an impeller, cutting air to its blades. Even merging with the sound of the car engine, in the "seven" this noise is clearly audible even from the cabin. For our cars, it is the norm.
If the rotation of the fan blades is accompanied by a hum, creaking or whistle, possibly a disretened front bearing or a support sleeve in the lid. Crack or knock testify the contact of the impeller with the inner edge of the frame, which is installed by the electric motor. Such a malfunction is possible due to the deformation or skew of the fan blades. For the same reasons, vibration arises.
Diagnosis and repair
Checking the fan and elements of its electrical circuit is recommended in the following order:
- Fuse.
- Relay.
- Electric motor.
- Temperature sensor.
Checking the safety of the fuse
The fuse is usually checked first, since this process is the easiest and does not take much time. It will require only a vehicle or a control lamp. The essence of the diagnosis is to determine whether it misses the electrical current.
Fan chain fuse installed in mounting block The car, which is located in the engine compartment. In the diagram, it is indicated as F-7 with a rating of 16 A. To check it and replace it, you must perform the following work:
Relay diagnostics
As we have already spoken, in injection "seven" to unload the electrical circuit of the radiator fan, the relay is provided. It is installed in an additional mounting unit located under a broad box in the cabin of the machine, and indicated as R-3.
Check the relay is independently quite problematic. It is much easier to take a new device and install it in the area of \u200b\u200bdiagnosed. If the electric fan turns on when the refrigerant is heated to the desired temperature, it means that the problem was in it.
Check and replacing the electric motor
Required tools:
- voltmeter or multifunctional autotest;
- two cuts of wires;
- end keys on "8", "10" and "13";
- passatia.
The order of work is as follows:
- Swede fan power connector.
- To the contacts of half the connector, which comes from the electric motor, connect two wires, the lengths of which should be enough to connect them to the battery terminals.
- Connect the ends of the wires to the battery terminals. If the fan does not turn on, you can prepare for it.
- If he regularly earned, it is worth checking whether the voltage is supplied to it.
- We connect the probe voltmeter to the contacts of other half the connector (to which the voltage is supplied).
- We start the engine, screw the contacts of the sensor (for carburetor cars) and look at the instrument readings. The voltage on contacts should be equal to the fact that the generator is issued (11.7-14.5 V). For injection machines, it is not necessary to hide anything. It is necessary to wait until the engine temperature reaches the value at which the electronic control unit provides a signal on the relay (85-95 OS), and read the instrument readings. If there are no voltages, or it does not match the set values \u200b\u200b(for both types of engines), the reason should be signed in the chain of the device.
- When the motor malfunction is detected, the end key to "8" we unscrew 2 bolts of fixing the fan casing to the radiator (left and right).
- Carefully pull the casing on itself, at the same time freeing the sensor wires from the retainer.
- Using Passatia, squeeze the sheath casing fastening petals. Pull the clamps from the casing.
- We dismantle the fan assembly.
- Holding the blade of the impeller with your hand, unscrew the nut of its mount using an end key to "13".
- Disconnect the impeller from the shaft.
- Using the key to "10", we unscrew all three nuts that fasten the electric motor body to the frame.
- Remove the faulty electric motor.
- We install a new device in its place. We make an assembly in the reverse sequence.
Diagnostics and replacement of the temperature sensor
The temperature sensors of the carburetor and injector "seeds" are distinguished not only by the design, but also the principle of action. In the first, the sensor is simply closed-blurring contacts, and the second it changes the value of its electrical resistance. Consider both options.
Carburetor Engine
Of the tools and means you will need:
- horn key on "30";
- caid key or head on "13";
- ommeter or autotest;
- liquid thermometer with a measurement range up to 100 OS;
- clean tank for the collection of refrigerant;
- capacity with water;
- gas (electric) plate or household boiler;
- dry clean rag.
Algorithm for checking and replacing the following:
- We substitute the capacity under the cork on the power plant cylinder block.
- We unscrew the cork, drain the refrigerant.
- Turn off the connector from the sensor contacts.
- Using the key to "30" unscrew the sensor.
- By contacts of the sensor, connect the dips of the ohmmeter. The resistance between them at a serviceable device should strive for infinity. This means that contacts are open.
- We place the sensor with the threaded part in the water capacity. Devices of the device do not turn off. Heat the water in the tank with the plate or boiler.
- We observe the thermometer testimony. When the temperature reaches the temperature of 85-95 OS, the sensor contacts must be closed, and the Ommeter should show zero resistance. If this did not happen, we change the sensor by screwing into the place of the old new device.
Video: How to prevent engine overheating with a faulty sensor
Injector Engine
In the injection "seven" there are two temperature sensor. One of them works in a pair with the device showing the temperature of the refrigerant to the driver, the other - with the ECU. We need a second sensor. As mentioned, it is installed on the nozzle next to the thermostat. To check and replace it, we will need:
- autootester or multimeter with the ability to measure voltage and resistance;
- rozhnaya or a cape key to "19";
- liquid thermometer with an amplitude of temperature measurement up to 100 OS;
- heat-resistant water tank;
- boiler or stove (for heating water tank);
- clean dry rag.
The order of work is:
- We find a sensor. Disconnect the connector from its contacts.
- Turn on the ignition.
- Turn on the multimeter or tester to the voltage measurement mode. Properties of the device connect to the connector contacts. We look at the testimony. The device should show approximately 12 V (battery voltage). If there is no voltage, the problem must be signed in the power supply chain of the device.
- If the device shows the standard voltage, turn off the ignition and remove the terminal with the battery.
- Using the key to "19", unscrew the sensor. It is possible to flow a small amount of coolant. Pots wipe dry rag.
- We switch our device into resistance measurement mode. Connect its probe to the sensor contacts.
- We place the sensor with the working part in the water tank.
- Heat water, watching the change in temperature and resistance. If the readings of both devices do not correspond to the following, we produce the sensor replacement.
Table: The dependence of the resistance value of DH VAZ 2107 on temperature
Forced fan inclusion
Some owners of the "Classics", including the VAZ 2107, install a button forced fan power on their cars. It allows you to start the electric motor device regardless of the temperature of the refrigerant. Taking into account the fact that the design of the cooling system "seven" is far from ideal, this option can someday can greatly rescue. It will come in handy and those drivers who are often moved by sightseeing roads or are forced to stand in traffic jams.
Forced fan inclusion appropriately only on carburetor vehicles. In machines with injection engines, it is better to rely on the electronic control unit and not to make any changes in its operation.
Video: Forced fan turning on
The easiest way to make the fan is turned on at the request of the driver - it is to output two wires from the contact sensor contacts in the cabin and connect them to the usual button for two positions. To implement this idea, you will need only wires, a button and a tape or shrink isolation.
If you want to "unload" the button from unnecessary loads, you can install a relay circuit according to the following scheme.
In principle, nothing complicated in the design of the fan itself, nor in the circuit of its connection is not. So in case of occurrence of any breakdown, you can safely begin to independently repairs.
The cooling system is designed in such a way that the fan is started only after the engine is heated to the set temperature. A non-performing fan power sensor can lead to serious problems with the engine.
Do not confuse this sensor with the coolant temperature sensor (DPT) which shows the engine temperature on the instrument panel and is installed with right side Engine.
In time, it is possible to notice his breakdown in time only in the summer, and even then in the city or with slow driving, since the oncoming air flow is quite enough for normal operation of the cooling system. The cooling system fan, on VAZ 2107 cars, starts with a characteristic noise, so the moment of its launch is well heard.
Where the inclusion temperature is
The fan power sensor in injection models is located, on the outlet aluminum pipe of the cylinder block head (Article - 23.3828, is used in VAZ-2107i-2112, 21213, 2123, Alfa Romeo, Daewoo, Fiat, Lancia, Opel), on carburetor models (TM 108 -02 92/87 c) It is set on the engine cooling radiator.
For the "Classic", the fan's response temperature is 92 degrees and shutdowns - 87 c 0, so installing suitable in size, but it is not recommended with another number.
On the carburetor models, the sensor is located on the radiator
Check the electric fan and its chains
In order to test the operation of the fan and power circuits on the seven injector, you need to turn off the connector from the sensor, the computer will give the command to turn on the fan. If this did not happen, it is not necessary to check the sensor itself, but the cost of fuse F7, the electric motor, the fan relay and power circuits. Below is a scheme for switching on the cooling fan VAZ 2107 injector.
WAZ 2107 cooling fan switching circuit (injector)
The principle of operation of such a device differs from TM 108 and is based on resistance.
The sensor heating reduces the resistance, the ECU controls this change and when the specified parameter is reached (about 195 ohms) turns the fan relay.
On the carburetor model, everything is made somewhat easier if the fuse and relay are working, then in order for the electric motor to work, it is enough to remove the chips from the sensor and close them with each other.
The principle of operation of the fan power sensor installed on the radiator, in the cold state, the bimetallic plate opens the contacts, and when the temperature is 92 degrees (ideally), the relay is triggered. In practice, it is often possible to buy sensors with some scattering of values. Check the new one can be heated in water, controlling the temperature and inclusion.
|
|
Diagnostics
Check the fan power sensor can be measured by resistance under different temperature conditions. To do this, use the tester (multimeter) in the module mode and the spare parts resistance is measured. It must decrease in proportion to the heating of the coolant, as already mentioned, the higher the heating, the lower the resistance.
Checking the resistances can be done without removing it from the machine, for this it is enough to remove the chip and carry out measurements on the contacts of the part and warm the engine controlling its heating to the instrument on the panel. Table with indicative values \u200b\u200bof the dependence of resistance from temperature, see below.
Before installing a new controller, you can check the resistance change in the container with heated water.
Check the electric motor can be supplied to the battery voltage, the blue wire is "+", blue with black or just black it is "-".
It happens that the start of the fan occurs with non-standard large temperature values, it indicates its malfunction.
If when checking it turns out that the electric motor, the fuse, the sensor is all proper, in this case you need to check the proper function of the relay. It happens that contacts just fade. In the photo below
The fan relay on the VAZ 2107 injector is located on an additional block under the "glove compartment" (see photo) It is extreme left number 23-3787.
VAZ 2107 fan relay (injector)
If you have nothing to replace this relay, then you can fix it. Contact attached on the plate and to restore its performance enough to help contact. For this:
It should be noted that over time the breakdown is repeated, verified.
Replacing the sensor
Replacing the sensor on the injection model is easier than on the carburetor, since there is no need to merge coolant. It is enough to put some rag to absorb the rated coolant. The key to 19 unscrew the part, removes and quickly installs the new one. When installing, it is rationally to apply a sealant in advance.
To carry out the replacement procedure on the carburetor machine, you must first drain Tosol (antifreeze) and only then unscrew the sensor to 30, and install a new one.
When buying sensors and temperature controllers, try to choose branded details.
The VAZ-2107 cars, over the years of their release, were installed, both carburetor and subsequently, injection engines. Therefore, electrical circuits Voltage supply to the motor cooling fan fan motor, differ from each other.
On injection Engines of the VAZ-2107, two fan contact sensor, which stands in the upper nozzle, when raising the temperature of the coolant above the one on which it is calculated, it should signal to the ECU. The electronic unit Control, analyzing a signal, through the relay includes a fan.
Therefore, the search for the causes does not turn on the fan, start with the removal of the connector from the sensor, when the ignition is turned on. If the fan itself is good, then it must earn. By inserting the load in the terminal of the connector, in the form of a bulb, the fan must stop. Thus, you check the electrical circuit of the fan motor. In this case, it will be proper, and the fan sensor will have to be replaced. True, it should be noted that on sale, there are not substandard sensors that, when installing on the engine, also will not work.
If after removing the connector from the sensor, the fan did not earn, then its performance must be checked by connecting it directly to the battery. Experimental options, only two. If the fan works, you will have to check the performance of the fuse that protects this chain, the fan relay and the computer. And if the fan does not work, it will have to check the condition of its brushes, for their wear.
On the carburetor engines VAZ-2107 car, in the electrical circuit of the fan turning on the fan there will be no computer, and some "seven" do not even put the fan power relay. Therefore, find the reason why the fan is not included in the work is much easier and many cars of VAZ-2107 cars can cope with it.
Radiator fan - it is only needed by the radiator, because it cools it inside the radiator when the engine runs the cooling fluid and it is very heated, thanks to the fan, this liquid heats up for longer and in connection with this, the engine temperature is not so quickly rising, so When the fan fails, the car begins to warm and overheat much, it is especially noticeable when you stand in a lot of time stop in the summer heat.
Does not work
On the injector engines VAZ-2107, two-pin fan sensor, which stands in the upper nozzle, when raising the coolant temperature above the one on which it is designed, it should signal to the ECU. Electronic control unit, analyzing a signal, through the relay turns on the fan.
Therefore, the search for the causes does not turn on the fan, start with the removal of the connector from the sensor, when the ignition is turned on. If the fan itself is good, then it must earn. By inserting the load in the terminal of the connector, in the form of a bulb, the fan must stop. Thus, you check the electrical circuit of the fan motor. In this case, it will be proper, and the fan sensor will have to be replaced. True, it should be noted that on sale, there are not substandard sensors that, when installing on the engine, also will not work.
If after removing the connector from the sensor, the fan did not earn, then its performance must be checked by connecting it directly to the battery. Experimental options, only two. If the fan works, you will have to check the performance of the fuse that protects this chain, the fan relay and the computer. And if the fan does not work, it will have to check the condition of its brushes, for their wear.
On carburetor engines of the VAZ-2107 car, in the electrical circuit of the fan turning on the fan there will be no emble, and some "seven" do not even put the fan power relay. Therefore, find the reason why the fan is not included in the work is much easier and many cars of VAZ-2107 cars can cope with it.
Scheme
We present you a scheme for inclusion of an electric fan of the radiator cooling on VAZ-2107, VAZ-2105 and VAZ-2104. In this scheme, a relay is present in the fuse block, respectively, the sensor can be installed low-current.
Does not turn off
Flying the fan power sensor that monitors the temperature.
It is located on the right side of the radiator (screwed into the radiator itself). Here it must be replaced.
The inclusion sensor (DV) fan on any car, including VAZ 2107, plays an important role. It is due to it that the engine is cooling with the help of an air flow, which does not give power aggregate overheat. Read more about the principle of operation, diagnostics and replacement method, read below.
[Hide]
Fan switching sensor characteristics
On the engines of the VAZ 2107, the injector or carburetor skip the inclusion of the fan sensor is quite difficult - the cooling fan itself is quite loud. In addition, when it is activated from the engine compartment, the hum is not only coming, special, if its activation coincided with a large load on the wiring, but also the body vibration level is enhanced. And in the event that the carburetor is not properly configured dashboard Pressure indicator can light up motor fluid.
The cooling system "seven" is configured in such a way that the ventilating device in normal operating conditions is not activated immediately. This happens at the moment when a certain temperature is achieved. To accurately identify this moment, the fan sensor is used, which is responsible for activating this device.
Where is the fan power sensor? Such a question came to every car owner who ever was engaged in the repair of the cooling system. It is located in the radiator, since primarily heating the small circle of coolant, after which the system involves the passage of antifreeze through the radiator. The work of the latter is intensive heat exchange. Only in the case when the temperature level increases more than 92 degrees, the unit starts work.
On the carburetor, there are two ож sensors, one - on the dashboard, the other - to turn on the fan. And on an injection single sensor, it shows the temperature on the dashboard and goes the computer, and it controls the fan turning on.
Forced fan inclusion
The cooling system on the VAZ 2107 does not provide for regular operation of the ventilating device. But despite this, the principle of its forced activation is sometimes implemented. This happens when the regulator fails, and to replace while driving, as you understand, is impossible. You can check this as possible - Duch, which stands under the hood, demonstrated on the dashboard the critical temperature of the motor, when the arrow moves to the red zone. In this case, the fan is not activated and if so, then this may be several explanations.
The first - there was a breakdown of the DV itself, which includes a fan on the "seven". This outcome of events, as practice shows, is more favorable for the driver. All because the system itself remains full, while the radiator operates properly, respectively, part of the heat is still removed from the engine.
In this case, the driver has several solutions to the problem:
- If you eat roven road, wherein vehicle Will ride without stopping, just follow the temperature on the dashboard. If there are traffic lights or traffic jams on the way, just turn on the oven for full force.
- If you ride for a long time, you can carry out forced fan activation. To do this, two contacts should be removed from the controller and close from each other. But before performing these actions, it is necessary to dismantle the negative wire with rechargeable battery. When the wiring is closed with each other, the negative wire can be installed in place on the battery, after which the fan will work constantly and without interruptions. The engine temperature in this case does not play a role, exactly, like the car driving mode. When the vehicle stops, the fan will function until the battery is completely discharged to prevent it, it is necessary to open motor compartment and disable "minus" from the battery.
Such an option is less acceptable to car owners with an installed anti-theft system, so if you have to disconnect the wiring of the device, then it will need to be connected and exhibited. In addition, in the open space, it will be necessary to make sure that it does not get anything under the blades, since the location of the wires involves in the harnesses. Of course, it will bring certain inconvenience, because it is constantly opening the hood and closer contacts - not quite convenient. So the option forced activation should be implemented in an emergency. DV himself is an element, the value of which is quite low, but it is almost impossible to replace it in the way, since the driver in any case will have to merge antifreeze.
The second option is less pleasant for the driver and more dangerous for the car in principle - the thermostat broke, while the cooling system works deficiently due to the inoperability of the fan. Of course, if the radiator is empty, the DV will not respond in any way, respectively, the ventilator will not turn on. The main problem in this case is that thermal exchange is many times worse due to the non-functioning radiator. The only solution to the solution is to activate the stove for full force and periodic stops of the machine. This will allow preventing the arrow to translate into the critical zone on the sensor.
On the video below you can see how the VAZ owner organized a button forced fan activation button with a non-working sensor (video author - Vlad Pakhandrin).
Controller diagnostics
To diagnose the controller, you will need a graded thermometer, which can function at boiling point of water. The diagnostic procedure is as follows:
- Often the sensor addressed inside the radiator should be placed in water.
- Next, the tester probes are connected to the controller contacts, they are adjusted to the absence of resistance.
- When the fluid begins to heat up, the resistance disappears at about 87-92 degrees. If so, the controller is properly and it will work properly.
