Moments of threaded fumes 406 Motor gas. Repeated broaching cylinder head. Works held on the right side of the car

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The head of the block can be removed with the receiver and exhaust manifold.

If the block head is removed from the engine installed on the car, you need to pre-execute the operations specified in the "Removing and Installing Engine" subsection.

You can also look at the article - "Replacing the GBC gasket."

Then disconnect the fuel tube from the exhaust manifold, disconnect the hollow hose throttle valve, Remove the drilling pipe of the radiator, remove the generator.

Remove switchgear.

Loosen the tightening of the clamps 1 and remove the hoses 2 and 3 from the throttle housing housing.

Remove the thermostat with the case.

Remove spark plugs.

Unscrew the bolts 1 fixing the head of the block. Remove bolts 1 and washers.

Remove the head of the cylinder block and the block head gasket.

You can not score between the head of the block and the screwdriver cylinder block or some other tool, as you can damage the surface of the block head adjacent to the cylinder block.

Disassembly

1. Unscrew the nuts 1 and remove the 5 phase sensor screen, bracket 2 for lifting the engine and exhaust manifold 6.

Remove the graduation collector gaskets. Unscrew the bolt 3 and remove the phase 4 sensor.

Unscrew the emergency pressure sensors of oil 7 and oil pressure pointer 8.

2. Loosen the tightening of the clamp 1 and remove the hose from the regulator nozzle idle move.

Unscrew the nuts 2 and remove the receiver 3 from the inlet tube.

Remove the receiver laying.

3. Unscrew the nuts 1 and remove the inlet tube 2 together with the nozzles and the fuel line.

Remove the gasket of the inlet tube.

Unscrew the bolts 1 and remove the back cover 2 of the block head.

Remove the cover of the lid.

Remove the valve hydro pulls.

The hydrothels are more convenient to remove with a magnet or sucker.

The hydrotherapists cannot be changed in places, so before removing they need to be marked to install in the assembly in their place.

Store the hydrotherapists should be kept in the same position in which they stand on the valves so that oil does not flow.

Install the device for compressing the valve springs on the block.

Squeezing the springs of the valves using the device, remove the clutches of 2 valves.

Then, gradually weakening the pressure on the handle of the device, completely dismiss the springs of the valve.

Remove the device from the block head. Remove plate 3 valve springs. Then remove the outdoor and inner springs of the valve.

Remove the oil reflective cap 1 valve.

7. Pick up a screwdriver and remove the support washer 1 valve springs.

8. Remove the valve from the combustion chamber.

9. In the same way, remove the remaining valves.

Before removing, marking all the valves so that when assembling, install them in your place.

avtomechanic.ru.

Repair of the head of the Cylinder Cylinder ZMZ-405, ZMZ-406

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Repair the head of the cylinder block we produce with the overall engine repair and when replacing the gasket of the GBC.

It is very important to make the repair of the head after the motor has overheated. During overheating, defects may occur, which can be visually not seen. Therefore, it is necessary to carefully do all the operations on the repair of the cylinder head. In many respects, the engine operation depends. And it will save from excess work and costs.

Removing the head of the cylinder block, we look at the article - "Replacing the gasket of the cylinder head."

Disassembly

autoruk.ru.

repeated broaching of the GBC.

And hello again :) However, I often ask - "Is it necessary to repeat broach GBC.? ". There are many who who believe that he put the head, tightened and do not touch her more.

In the process of its pretty long work, a motorist, and this is more than a quarter of a century, I made sure that if you are lazy to stretch the head through the time laid for a broach, then after a while, and it depends on the motor manner The driver and distances are simultaneously traveled, have to be removed.

Usually, the gasket burns throughout the year, AI, if a person rides for a long distance, then in a month. Therefore, my advice is: it is impossible to go far with an unzipped head, and otherwise you will have to shoot it on the road. But you know, I noticed if the technique came directly from the factory, then through a mileage for broaching, the heads are rarely weakened. It is possible that the laying material, which is put there yet.

So how much do you need to stretch the cylinder head? On average, one thousand km. Run. So it is written in the instructions and this is confirmed by practice. In the instructions on so- It is also written that in ten thousand you need to stretch or check the head stretch.

Well, in most cases there was enough one broach. But rare certainly, but there were cases that when the gasket burned, the head was weak even after one broach. In my opinion it all depends on the material gBC padsWhich is very sitting, and which does not seem at all.

Physics of this phenomenon, namely the weakening of the head broach is obvious. Typically, the cylinder heads are aluminum, and the bolts or stiletto fastenings are still steel. When the aluminum is heated, the expansion coefficient is greater than that of steel and when the engine heats up, the head expanding squeezes the gasket as a press, and when it cools, it is also released and the gasket is already siled, and the zesessino bolts are weakened.

There is a rule: it is impossible to stretch hot Engine, only cold. I will tell you a list of engines that need to stretch from your experience with whom I was dealing, namely: ZMZ405,406,409. ZMZ-402 engines, UAZ 417,421. Engines ZMZ 511,512,523, ZIL-130, Urals.

I will not say about others, but usually the VAZ heads are rarely lying. I also can't say anything about foreign cars, because I did not want to go through them, but I don't want to ask. That's all.

No, not all. In order not to suffer with a re-stretcher of the head, while it is necessary to disassemble almost half of the engine in order to make sure that it does not break, but sometimes it happens. Depends on the laying material. Immediately and do not guess.

In order not to stretch the head re-head, you can put a metal bottle. About then you can read here. And although I wrote about UAZ-Patriot, this may refer to many engines. Good luck friends!

gazung.ru.

Tightening torques of major threaded compounds ZMZ 402, ZMZ-4021, ZMZ-4062

Bolt fixtures of distribution gears 11-16 (1.1-1,6) nut mounting nuts for distribution gears 12-18 (1.2-1.8) nut mounting cover of the pusher box 12-18 (1.2-1.8 ) Nut for fastening the head of the cylinder block 85-90 (8.5-9.0) bolt fastening the back cover of the cylinder block 11-16 (1.1-1.6) nut bolt fastening rod cover 68-75 (6,8- 7.5) Fastening nut 78-83 (7.8-8.3) Bolt for fastening the crankshaft pulley 11-16 (1.1-1.6) Cranching bolt of the crankshaft (ratchet) 170-220 (17-22 ) Bolt of fastening of the stop flange of the camshaft 11-16 (1.1-1.6) bolt of fastening of the gear wheel of the camshaft 55-60 (5.5-6.0) nut of the fastening of the rack of the axis of the rocker axis 35-40 (3.5- 4.0) Bolt fastening rumor cover 4.5-8.0 (0.45-0.8) Nut for fastening of the exhaust manifold to the intake pipe 44-56 (4,4-5.6) nut fastening of the ink pipe and exhaust manifold to the head block 40-56 (4.0-5.6) fastening nut oil Carter 12-15 (1.2-1.5) Oil pump mounting nut 18-25 (1.8-2.5) Bolt fastening of the ignition distributor 6.0-8.0 (0,6-0.8) Nut Fastening of the indigenous bearing cover 100-110 (10-11) fastening nut oil filter 12-18 (1.2-1.8) Fuel pump fastening bolt 12-18 (1.2-1.8) Filter fastening nut thin cleaning Fuel 12-18 (1.2-1.8) Water Pump Fastening Nut 18-25 (1.8-2.5) Water Pump Fastening Bolt 12-18 (1.2-1.8) Cutter Cutter Bolt 28-36 (2.8-3.6) clutch crankcase fastening nut 40-56 (4.0-5.6) bolt fastening of the clutch pressure disk 20-25 (2.0-2.5) nut fastening bracket generator 44 -62 (4.4-6.2)

Nut fastening of the generator 44-56 (4.4-5.6) Ignition Candle 30-40 (3.0-4.0) fan bolt 14-18 (1.4-1.8)

Bolt fastening of the cover of the root bearing 100-110 (10.0-11.0) nut bolt fastening of rods of rods 68-75 (6,8-7.5) bolt fastening of the flywheel 72-80 (7.2-8.0) bolt Fastening the head of the cylinder block:

- the first step 40-60 (4.0-6.0) - the second step 130-145 (13.0-14.5) bolt of fastening of the camshaft covers 19-23 (1.9-2.3) crankshaft bolt Shaft (ratchet) 104-128 (10.4-12.8) Bolt fastening of the camshaft of the camshaft 56-62 (5,6-6.2) nut fastening nut 29-36 (2.9-3.6) Bolt of fastening of the front cover of the head of the cylinder block 22-27 (2.2-2.7) bolt for fastening the pulley of the water pump 22-27 (2.2-2.7) the fastening bolt of the water pump 22-27 (2.2-2, 7) Bolt of fastening of gear wheels of the intermediate shaft 22-27 (2.2-2.7) Nut for fastening the receiver to the inlet tube 19-23 (1.9-2.3) The fastening nut of the exhaust manifold 20-25 (2.0- 2.5) Bolt of fastening of oil crankcase 12-18 (1.2-1.8) when tighting is allowed to be allowed 6 N · m (0.6 kgf · m)

Bolt fastening the cover of the cylinder block of 5.0-8.0 (0.5-0.8) when ensuring tightness is allowed by a moment of 3 N · m (0.3 kgf · m) Bolt of fastening of a relaxer 12-18 (1,2- 1.8) fueling bolt with nozzles 5.0-8.0 (0.5-0.8) bolt fastening inductive sensors 5.0-8.0 (0.5-0.8) Ignition Candle 31-38 (3.1-3.8) Starter fastening bolt 67-75 (6.7-7.5) Nut for fastening of generator brackets 12-18 (1.2-1.8) Bolt fastening the clutch pressure disk 20-25 (2 0-2.5) clutch crankcase fastening bolt 42-51 (4.2-5,1) clutch crankcase amplifier bolt 29-36 (2.9-3.6) bolt fastening fastening force clutch fork 42-51 ( 4.2-5,1)

Other compounds

Nut of the Khomut Adjustment Tube Truck 15-18 (1.5-1.8) Finger of the Lower Lever Front Suspension 180-200 (18-20) Nut Axis of the Upper Lever Front Pendant 70-100 (7.0-10.0) Nut Threads of threaded hinge 120-200 (12.0-20.0) bolt and nut fastening axis axis 44-56 (4,4-5.6) Wheel mounting bolt 100-120 (10-12) Nut flange ladder rear gear Bridge 160-200 (16-20) Front suspension fastening bolt to the body 125-140 (12.5-14) Nut for fastening the steering mechanism 50-60 (5.0-6.0) nut fastening of the steering wheel 65-75 ( 6,5-7,5) nut fastening of the power steering mechanism 105-120 (10.5-12) bolt fastening bracket bracket pendulum lever 50-62 (5.0-6.2) bolt and nut mounting of the steering column to the instrument panel 12-18 (1.2-1.8) Wedge Wedge Wedge 18-25 (1.8-2.5) Suction Pump Floor Steering Pump 32-40 (3.2-4.0) valve bolt Control of the built-in power steering 80-100 (8.0-10.0) Nut of the Upper and Nerine Ejects of the injection hose of the built-in power steering 44-62 (4,4-6.2) nut of the upper and lower tips of the injection hose of the built-in power steering 44-62 (4,4-6.2) nut tube tube of the drain hose of the built-in steering power steering hose 44-62 (4.4-6.2) Nut for connecting the tip of the injection hose and hoses of the power cylinder of a separate hydraulic steering steering 32-40 (3.2-4.0) bolt-fitting of the firm hose of the built-in power steering 80-100 steering hose ( 8.0-10.0) fastening bolt swivel fist, lever and bracket 80-100 (8.0-10.0) 80-100 rotation limiter (8.0-10.0) Nut fastening axis axis pedals of brake and clutch 32-36 (3,2-3.6) Bolt mounting brake shield of the rear brake 65-80 (6.5-8.0) bolt fastening brackets of the front brake 110-125 (11.0-12.5)

Bolt fastening of the rear brake wheel cylinder 8.0-18.0 (0.8-1.8) Nut of the fastening of the pressure supplement controller 8.0-18.0 (0.8-1.8) The nut fastening of the main cylinder of the brakes 24- 56 (2.4-5.6) fastening nut vacuum amplifier 8.0-18.0 (0.8-1.8) Bolt of attachment of the rear valley cardanian Vala 50-56 (5.0-5.6) Nut for the mounting of the cardan shaft to the rear bridge 27-30 (2.7-3.0) the fastening nut of the intermediate support to the body 27-30 (2.7-3.0) Bolt for fastening an intermediate support to the crossbar 12-18 (1.2-1.8) Nut for fastening the gearbox to the clutch Carton 50-62 (5.0-6.2)

For other threaded connections, tightening torque:

for m6 - 6-8 n · m (0.6-0.8 kgf · m) for m8 - 14-18 N · m (1.4-1.8 kgf · m) for m10 - 28-36 N · M (2.8-3.6 kgf · m) for M12 - 50-62 N · m (5.0-6.2 kgf · m)

This is how the reared bolt looks like :)

gaz-Autoclub.ru.

Replacing the ZMZ-406 engine camshafts

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1. Remove the spark plug tips together with high-voltage wires, ignition coils (you can only disconnect the connectors by leaving them on valve cover), throttle drive cable and, disconnecting the wires from sensors of lubrication and cooling systems, remove the wiring harness from the block head cover.

2. Melt the cooling fluid and remove the upper radiator hoses and the sensor mass flow Air with air ducts.

7. Head at 36, exhibit crankshaft To the position of the NMT tact of the compression of the first cylinder, turning it for the pulley attachment bolt (risk on the crankshaft pulley should coincide with the protrusion on the front cover of the cylinder block, and labels on asterisks distributional shafts - At the upper edges of the block head).

avtomechanic.ru.

Removing and repairing the head of the engine cylinders of the ZMZ 406

We drain the cooling fluid from the system (see "Replacing the coolant"). Remove hoses from thermostat nozzles or remove the thermostat

(see Check and Replacing the thermostat "). Disconnect the wire block from the camshaft position sensor

(See "Checking and replacing the camshaft position sensor"). Remove the generator with its top bracket (see "Removing the Generator"). If the head of the engine cylinder block of the ZMZ 406 is dismantled with the purpose of repair or replacement, then pre-removing the inlet pipeline (see "Replacing the gasket of the inlet pipeline") and the exhaust manifold (see "Replacing the exhaust manifold gaskets"). If the work is performed with a different goal (for example, it is necessary to replace the cylinder head gasket), then the head can be removed assembled with the intake pipeline and the outlet manifold. Remove switching shafts (see "Removing distributional shafts"). Hexagon "On 12" turn over the ten screws fastening the head of the engine cylinders of the ZMZ 406.

and take out the screws.

Take out the pucks of the screws.

We take out the hydrocomathers (see "Replacing the hydrocompensators"). Placing their location in the head of the cylinder block. Remove the head of the cylinder block.

and its gasket.

The conjugated surfaces of the head and the cylinder block thoroughly clean from the car, the remains of the old gasket and sealant. Having attached a ruler to the bustal plane of the cylinder block head.

a set of probe check the non-sympathy of the head of the cylinder block. With non-reduction of over 0.05 mm, the head plane must be restored by mechanical processing, however, if non-plane exceeds 0.1 mm, the head is not maintainable.

The key "on 10" turns over eight bolts.

remove the rear cylinder head cover with gasket.

We establish the dismakeholder on the head of the cylinder block. If the design of the solucharifier is not provided by the valve stop, we put a wooden bar for a valve plate. The distributor is squeezing the valve spring. To make a plate of springs easier with superstars. We apply a light blows with a hammer at a stubborn sock of the dismissant.

Tweezers take out two croutons and smoothly let go of the spring.

Remove the upper plate and two valve springs.

Remover remove oil cap cap.

and remove the support washer.

I turn over the head of the ZMZ 406 engine cylinder block and remove the valve, placing the place of its installation, in order for the valve during the subsequent assembly, the valve rose to its former place. Similarly remove and labeled the remaining valves. Hexagon "On 8" turn the oil channel plugs.

To wipe the valves.

approximate paste on the valve brass and install the valve into the corresponding guide sleeve of the cylinder block of the ZMZ 406 engine.

Fix on the foot of the valve device for wipes and.

cressing the valve to the saddle, alternately turn it on both sides.

We continue to the tick until the valve sealing chamfer is completely in all its width and length will not be matte and clean.

The chamfer on the valve saddle should also look like.

We wash the wind from the valve and the saddle of the remains of the paste.

Similarly, we carry out the remaining valves. Before assembling the head of the Cylinder Cylinder Cylinder 406 kerosene or diesel fuel We wash the head, clean the oil channels from deposits. Then wipe the surface with clean rag and blow the channels with compressed air.

We collect and install the head of the CISM 406 cylinder block in the reverse order. Valve stem seals We replace new. Before installing the valves of their rods are coated with engine oil.

From the threaded holes of the cylinder block under the head mounting screws, we remove the remains of the oil and coolant.

On the capel plane of the front cover of the cylinder block (on a block of contact with the block of the block head) we apply a sealant.

ZMZ 406 engine cylinder head gasket replace new. By installing the head of the cylinder block to the block, follow the "sat down" to the installation bushings. Before installing the screws for fastening the head of the cylinder block, we apply on their threaded part. motor oil. Screws tighten with a dynamometric key in two stages, observing the sequence of their tightening. Pre-tighten with their torque of 50 nm, then finally - 140 nm. The order of tightening bolts fastening the head of the cylinder block

Having installed all the details and nodes, fill in the cooling system with liquid and replace the engine oil

Overhaul of GBC ZMZ 406, 405, 409 under gas.

Repair GBC.

note2auto.ru.

Serving the head of the block of cylinders with their own hands »AvtoVator

As we have already managed to figure out, the GBC is one of the most important assemblies of the engine. If you feel confident and have the skills of owning a plumbing tool, the broaching head of the block of the cylinder of labor will not be. It remains to decide for what and how to carry out the GBC broach.

When you need a broaching head of the cylinder block

Maybe not all motorists know but modern cars Do not need a preventive breakdown of cylinder heads.

Previously, the GBC broach was the mandatory point of the first, then the situation has changed. Even with contemporary VAZ engines. The cylinder head broach is mainly required for old models of VAZ, UAZ, Moskvich, etc..

The main reason that passes the owner of the car to think about the need to pull the GBC, are "wet" in the place of connecting the head and block. This indicates an existing oil leakage.

There may be several reasons. The most traditional: the failure of the gasket GBC, the CBC warning as a result of the engine overheating unnoticed by you, or initially incorrectly tightened cylinder head bolts. If you did "Kapitalku" on the car service.

How the cylinder block bolts are held

With learning. It is from the study of the repair manual for your car, preferably original. It is there that the manufacturer specifies everything that is necessary for tightening the GBC. And you need to know:

• order (diagram) of tightening bolts of the head of the cylinder block;
• what is the moment of tightening force
• what bolts are used for tightening the GBC.

Bolts for tightening the head of the cylinder block - the conversation is special. The fact is that in modern engines For GBC, bolts with special characteristics are used. The so-called "spring" bolts, which, thanks to their properties after the initial broach, do not need additional.

Moreover, when trying to make the cylinder head broach bolts, by virtue of the "fluidity" of the metal, they will be pulled out. As a result, you can get a bolt break.

During repair GBC You need to put gaskets that do not give shrinkage. This eliminates the need to pull the cylinder head bolts.

But, if you have decided that broaching bolts of the head of the cylinder block are extremely necessary for you, then it should be done with the "manual" from the manufacturer and with the help of a dynamometer key. Movement in motion, digit into numbers. Amateurity from the calculation "Prointer" is not needed here.

Control of tightening GBC.

So that your soul is calm, and since you will soon decide to draw the head bolts, then there is a method of controlling the moment of tightening bolts of the GBC. Naturally, with a dynamometric key.

A moment is applied to the bolt, equal to the moment of stroking the bolt. After the start of the turn, you need to control the moment of the stroke. If he did not increase, it means everything is in order, the bolt began to stretch.

If the moment begins to grow, it means that the bolt does not reach the yield strength. Here you need to tighten bolt GBC. Before stabilizing the torque.

When monitoring the tightening of the bolts of the cylinder block head, pay attention to two features. If a moment is attached to the bolt in 20 kgsm, but the momentum is not achieved, then the bolt is replaced, as it has increased strength.

If at the time of tightening the bolt, you saw that the moment decreases, this means the destruction of the bolt, and it uniquely requires replacement.

Such requirements for the cylinder head bolts are simply explained: they work in constant mode heating - cooling.

Good luck to you and let the tightening of the cylinder head bolts with their own hands, will be successful.

And hello again :) However, I often ask - "Do I need a repeated broaching GBC?". There are many who who believe that he put the head, tightened and do not touch her more.

In the process of its pretty long work, a motorist, and this is more than a quarter of a century, I made sure that if you are lazy to stretch the head through the time laid for a broach, then after a while, and it depends on the motor manner The driver and distances are simultaneously traveled, have to be removed.

Usually, the gasket burns throughout the year, AI, if a person rides for a long distance, then in a month. Therefore, my advice is: it is impossible to go far with an unzipped head, and otherwise you will have to shoot it on the road. But you know, I noticed if the technique came directly from the factory, then through a mileage for broaching, the heads are rarely weakened. It is possible that the laying material, which is put there yet.

So how much do you need to stretch the cylinder head? On average, one thousand km. Run. So it is written in the instructions and this is confirmed by practice. In the instructions on so- It is also written that in ten thousand you need to stretch or check the head stretch.

Well, in most cases there was enough one broach. But rare certainly, but there were cases that when the gasket burned, the head was weak even after one broach. In my opinion, it all depends on the material of the gasket GBC, which is very sitting, and which does not seem at all.

Physics of this phenomenon, namely the weakening of the head broach is obvious. Typically, the cylinder heads are aluminum, and the bolts or stiletto fastenings are still steel. When the aluminum is heated, the expansion coefficient is greater than that of steel and when the engine heats up, the head expanding squeezes the gasket as a press, and when it cools, it is also released and the gasket is already siled, and the zesessino bolts are weakened.

There is a rule: it is impossible to stretch the hot engine, only cold. I will tell you a list of engines that need to stretch from your experience with whom I was dealing, namely: ZMZ405.406,409. ZMZ-402 engines, UAZ 417,421. Engines ZMZ 511,512,523, ZIL-130, Urals.

I will not say about others, but usually the VAZ heads are rarely lying. I also can't say anything about foreign cars, because I did not want to go through them, but I don't want to ask. That's all.

So what did we get the conclusion? But what! stretch in time!And then burn to Hujam gaskets!

No, not all. In order not to suffer with a re-stretcher of the head, while it is necessary to disassemble almost half of the engine in order to make sure that it does not break, but sometimes it happens. Depends on the laying material. Immediately and do not guess.

In order not to stretch the head re-head, you can put a metal bottle. About then you can read. And although I wrote about UAZ-Patriot, this may refer to many engines. Good luck friends!

We apply a triwort paste on the valve instant and install the valve into the corresponding guide sleeve of the cylinder block head engine ZMZ. 406.
Fix on the leg valve device for wipes and ...

... pressing the valve to the saddle, alternately turn it on both sides.

We continue to the tick until the valve sealing chamfer is completely in all its width and length will not be matte and clean.
The chamfer on the valve saddle should also look like.
We wash the wind from the valve and the saddle of the remains of the paste.
Similarly, we carry out the remaining valves. Before assembling the head of the ZMZ 406 cylinder head with kerosene or diesel fuel, we wash the head, clean the oil channels from deposits. Then wipe the surface with clean rag and blow the channels with compressed air.
We collect and install the head of the CISM 406 cylinder block in the reverse order. Mascal caps replace new. Before installing the valves of their rods are coated with engine oil.
From the threaded holes of the cylinder block under the head mounting screws, we remove the remains of the oil and coolant.

On the capel plane of the front cover of the cylinder block (on a block of contact with the block of the block head) we apply a sealant.
ZMZ 406 engine cylinder head gasket replace new. By installing the head of the cylinder block to the block, follow the "sat down" to the installation bushings. Before installing the screws of the cylinder head, the engine oil is applied to their threaded part.
Screws tighten with a dynamometric key in two stages, observing the sequence of their tightening. Pre-tighten with their torque of 50 nm, then finally - 140 nm.

The order of tightening bolts fastening the head of the cylinder block
Having installed all the details and nodes, fill in the cooling system with liquid and replace the engine oil

Tightening the cylinder head bolts - an important part repair workwhich cannot be neglected. The question is worth paying attention, especially if we are talking about the car GAZ 53. We propose to find out what time the cylinder GBC GAZ 53 and what is the order of tensioning screws during repair.

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When do you need to make a tight?

Not every motorist is aware of the importance of this nuance. And not all drivers understand that you need to follow the order of tightening pins. This moment is important, and it is not recommended to neglect them. If you are the owner of GAZ 53 and incorrectly tightened the cylinder head screws, it may cause other faults. Accordingly, the repair of the engine will entail many cash costs.

Cargo car GAZ 53

Ten years ago, the procedure in the vehicle was carried out by specialists at the car. The legislation was amended, according to which this procedure was canceled. Now tighten the screws - the headache of machine owners. In what cases to perform it?

• If noted that from under the GBC proceeds consumables, NAME MOTOR OIL. In some cases, this can be the consequence of mechanical damage to the head laying. Or the gasket could simply wear out. But sometimes oil leakage occurs as a result of the weakening of the screws of the GBC.
• If the engine of its gas 53 was disassembered. When assembling and installing the cylinder head, the moment and the order of screw tightening must be observed anyway. If not to do this, then with a long operation of the CFC, its deformation may occur.

If you saw that the bolts can be tightened, then you need to do it. Cylinder head screws can relax arbitrarily during operation vehicle. Therefore, the diagnosis of tension is necessary once every 3,000 mileage kilometers.

Process and order

Our resource advises novice motorists to think before carrying out the tension of the cylinder poles with their own hands. In practice, novice car enthusiasts, not having experience, proceed to the implementation of the procedure without understanding how sad it can turn into. Of course, in case of incorrect actions. Consider this procedure for the car GAZ 53. Remember that each separate engine has its own nuances in the work.

Required tools

If the cylinder head has already been installed in place, then the whole set of tools will not need. For tightening it is necessary to prepare one tool - a dynamometric key. It is needed to perform work, since it is possible to correctly determine the moment only with it. At home, such a tool has few people, since it has a certain specificity of work. You can try to ask him from masters for a hundred, but not free. If you decide to purchase such a key for yourself, keep in mind that its value is at least 1,200 rubles or 350 hryvnia.

Another advice. Sometimes little understanding "auto experts" advise not to use a torque wrench, but to use the usual, wrench. They motivate it by the fact that the screws need to be tightened to the maximum, and the purchase of a dynamometer tool is a useless waste of money. We can say that they do not realize the seriousness of the situation. Therefore, if you want the repair process to go correctly, dynamometric key.

Phased instruction

We ate the owner of GAZ 53, we recommend using the service manual to the car. Perhaps the engine of your GAZ 53 has certain nuances in the work or its own specifics. The instruction below is relevant for all gases 53. If you are ready to perform these works, you can start. If they changed the sealing gasket or did the repair of the motor, then collect it and install a new seal.

1. Inspect the cylinder head bolts. They must be in perfect condition. If mechanical damage or traces of deformation are seen on the screws, you need to replace them. The reuse of bolts is not recommended, but if their condition is perfect or close to it, the operation of the pins is allowed. Pay attention to the thread - it must be clean. Nests for pins - too. If you notice the dirt or metal chips on the elements, they need to be cleaned with a metal brush.
2. Pins before tightening should be lubricated, the engine fluid is suitable for this.
3. Insert the screws into the holes and tighten them according to the order in the diagram. Using a dynamometer key, all pins need to be tightened with a point of 7.3 - 7.8 kgm. Observe the order. If the room in the room where they repair, minus (below -5 degrees), then the tension of the CCC should be 7.3 kgm. If there are 20 degrees, then the time of the stretch must correspond to the lower limit.

After that, on the repair, the process of tensioning screws Cleans can be considered finished. Recall that during this repair, it is necessary to be attentive, non-compliance with the nuances will lead to a negative result. Excessively having threw the pins, you can trigger the appearance of microcracks on the engine housing. As you can guess, it will turn out to be repaired. It will be necessary to brew cracks or change the GBC itself.

Do not forget that the pins should be a good quality. The absence of cracks, metal dust, deformation - a prerequisite condition that it is important to stick during such works. If you can't answer yourself for sure, whether everything can be done correctly, do not mind the stretch.

Video "Tightening pinches GBC"