Today in Moscow there is a good weather, it pleases, you can walk and enjoy the sun, but we with the mechanic Alexey replacing the timing chain on Volkswagen Tiguan. The owner did not like the sound of the chain in the engine running, the diagnosis of the Volkswagen Tiguan engine showed that it should be changed. In general, such a tendency is traced that the belts do as many and the chain, or even longer. We will try to figure this later, and now for business.

Given:

• Car: Volkswagen Tiguan
• Year of release: 2012
• Model year: 2012
• Engine: Cava (1.4 l., 1390 cubic meters. See, 150 hp)
• Features of DVS: 4 valves per cylinder, direct injection, turbocharger
• Transmission: LJV (MCPP, 6 steps, Modification 0A6)
• Preselective PPP Robot DSG: No
• Mileage: 70570 kilometers

Tiguan passed all the stages of diagnosis, we can change the chain. We unscrew the right wheel, it interferes with us, and begin to be famously get rid of the air filter, coolant, hoses for this liquid, sensors and wiring harnesses.

We hang the Volkswagen engine Tiguan with a 1.4 liter volume on the traverse. Engineers of the VAG concern tried, with such an area, the engine gives 150 horse powerThat only 20 horses are less than a two-liter senior comrade.

Replacing the timing chain on Volkswagen Tiguan provides dismantling of support, bracket support and crankshaft pulley. All that interferes - to the side.

Remove the covers, replacing the timing chain on Volkswagen Tiguan approaches the equator.

Now in turn of the folkswagen campus camshafts. Armed with a special tool, which is so like cars of the VAG concern, and remove it. Also in the direction of the oil pump chain tensioner and bolts. The bolts work at the yield limit, unscrewed - threw, disposable methis - a normal trend for Volkswagen.

Here we see such a spectacle removing the cover of the timing cover Volkswagen Tiguan.

Carefully draw the caller of the timing chain Volkswagen Tiguan, and then remove the chain itself.

Here is a kit from the concern VAG waiting for us. The owner correctly made a choice in favor of the original consumables. The "Health" of the engine must be maintained, and not risk them. The timing chain has a number, tensioner, and who is reluctant to collect individually, you can take a set.

The new timing chain Volkswagen Tiguan in design is different from the old. The manufacturer initially sets the circuit of another configuration. During the operation of the car, the chain "eats" gears, if you install such a chain, then the gears will continue to "eaten" in the same places. Therefore, smart and seats, cunning engineers of the VAG concern have developed a chain of another configuration, which after replacement will produce gears from the beginning. Chains of different configurations can be seen in the article ""

Solemn moment: Replacing the timing chain on Volkswagen Tiguan took place. On the chains there are links labels, combine them with labels on the crankshaft star, the camshaft star of the graduation valve camshaft and the star distributor phase regulator.

To combine all three tags, you need to use special tools, experience, short patience and calm. Tributes of the timing chain and stars are combined, we put on the calm.

Install the new chain tensioner.

We return to the place of the joints of the Folkswagen Tiguan camshafts.

Engine 1.4 TSI Volkswagen-Audi

CAXA engines characteristics

Reliability, Problems and Engine Repair 1.4 TSI Volkswagen-Audi EA111

A series of low-volume Turbomotors EA111 (1.2 TSI, 1.4 TSI) gained widespread in 2005, thanks to the popular Golf 5 and the Jetta sedan. The main and initially the only engine was 1.4 TSI in various modifications, which was called to replace atmospheric 2.0 fours and 1.6 FSI.
Based on power aggregate It is a cast iron cylinder block, covered with an aluminum 16 valve head with two camshafts, with hydrocompensators, with a phase inspector on an inlet shaft and with direct injection. The GDM drive uses a chain with a service life designed for the entire period of operation of the engine, but in reality the replacement of the timing chain is required after 50-100 thousand km. Let's go to the most important thing, and most importantly in engines TSI This is, of course, reducing. Weak versions are equipped with a regular turbocharger TD025, more powerful 1.4 TSI Twincharger and operate according to the EATON TVS + turbocharger compressor KKK K03, which practically eliminates the turboyama effect and provides significantly more power.

Despite all the manufacturability and advanced EA11 series (Motor 1.4 TSI, the repeated winner of the "Engine" contest), in 2015 it was replaced by an even more advanced series of EA211 with a new, seriously changed, 1.4 TSI engine.

Motor modifications 1.4 TSI

1. BLG (2005 - 2009) - an engine with a compressor and turbocharged, which blows 1.35 bar and the motor develops 170 hp at 98 gasoline. The engine is equipped with an air intercooler, corresponds environmental Standard Euro-4, and manages all Bosch Motronic MED ECU 9.5.10.
2. BMY (2006 - 2010) - an analogue of BLG, where the boost reduced to 0.8 bar, and the power fell to 140 hp. Here you can go around the 95th gasoline.
3. BWK (2007 - 2008) - version for Tiguan by 150 hp
4. Caxa (2007 - 2015) - Engine 1.4 TSI 122 hp It is simpler in all components than compressor with a turbine. Turbine on Caxa is a Mitsubishi TD025 (which is smaller than at Twincharger) with a maximum pressure of up to 0.8 bar, which quickly goes to the boost and allows you to abandon the compressor. In addition, modified pistons are installed here, intake manifold without dampers and with a liquid intercooler, a head with more flat inlet channels, changed camshafts, simpler exhaust valves, recycled nozzles, Bosch Motronic MED ECU 17.5.20. Motor meets Euro-4 standards.
5. CAXC (2007 - 2015) - Analog Sakha, but programmatically power increased to 125 hp
6. CFBA - Engine for the Chinese market, part-time this is the most powerful version with one turbine - power 134 hp
7. Cava (2008 - 2014) is an analogue of BWK under Euro-5.
8. Cavb (2008 - 2015) - BLG analog for Euro-5.
8. CAVC (2008 - 2015) - BMY engine for Euro-5 standard.
9. Cavd (2008 - 2015) - Motor CAVC with firmware at 160 hp Advance pressure 1.2 bar.
10. Cave (2009 - 2012) - an engine with a firmware for 180 hp For Polo GTI, Fabia RS and Ibiza Cupra. Superior pressure 1.5 bar.
11. Cavf (2009 - 2013) - version for Ibiza FR by 150 hp
12. Cavg (2010 - 2011) - Top velocity among all 1.4 TSI at 185 hp Stands on Audi A1
12. CDGA (2009 - 2014) - version for work per gas, power 150 hp
13. CTHA (2012 -2015) is an analogue of Cava with other pistons, chain and tensioner. The ecological class remained Euro-5.
14. CTHB (2012 - 2015) - CTHA analogue with a capacity of 170 hp
15. CTHC (2012 - 2015) - the same CTHA, but stitched under 140 hp
16. CTHD (2010 - 2015) - Engine with firmware for 160 hp
17. CTHE (2010 - 2014) - one of the most powerful versions 180 hp
18. CTHF (2011 - 2015) - Motor for Ibiza FR by 150 hp
19. CTHG (2011 - 2015) - Engine, Replaced Cavg, Power is the same - 185 hp

Problems and disadvantages of 1.4 TSI engines

1. Tensile timing chain, tensioner problems. The most common disadvantage of 1.4 TSI, appearing during runs from 40-100 thousand km. The crack in the engine is a typical symptom, when there is such audio support, it is worth going to replace the timing chain. In order to avoid repetition, you should not leave the car on the gear.
2. Does not go. In this case, the problem is most likely lies in the turbocharger by the turbocharger valve or the turbine control valve, check and everything will be settled.
3. Troit, vibration on the cold. Motor feature 1.4 TSI, after warming up these symptoms go.
In addition, the VW-Audi TSI engines are warm and loved to eat high-quality oil, but the problem is not so critical. With timely maintenance, use quality gasoline, quiet operation and normal attitude to the turbine (after the movement to work 1-2 minutes), the motor departures for quite a long time, resource engine Volkswagen. 1.4 TSI is more than 200,000 km.

Tuning Engine Volkswagen 1.4 TSI

Chip tuning

The easiest and most reliable option for increasing power on motors data is chip tuning. The usual chip Stage 1 at 1.4 TSI 122 hp or 125 hp It is capable of turning it in 150-160 a strong motor with a torque under 260 nm. At the same time, the resource critically change - a good urban version. With Downpippe, you can remove another 10 hp
On engines Twincharger The situation is more interesting, here the stage 1 firmware can be raised power up to 200-210 hp, the torque will increase to 300 nm. You can not dwell on the achieved and go further by making the standard Stage 2: Chip + Downpipe. Such a kit will give you about 230 hp And 320 Nm of the moment, it will be relatively reliable and riding forces.Further climb does not make sense - reliability will significantly seek, and it's easier to buy 2.0 TSI, which will give 300 hp

Caution: Before installing the polyclinic belt, check whether all the aggregates given to them (the generator, the climate installation compressor) are securely secured. Pay attention to the installation of a polyclinic belt to the direction of the stroke and the correct landing on the pulleys and the stretch elements.

First put the polyclinic strap on the crankshaft pulley. On the tension roller The belt is put on the last turn. Further installation is made in reverse sequence. Pour coolant. After completing the work. Turn the engine and check the drive belt.

Belt Transmission with Climate Installation Compressor

• 1 - belt pulley - coolant pump
• 2 - belt pulley - crankshaft
• 3 - Tension Roller
• 4 - Tension Roller
• 5 - belt pulley - generator
• 6 - belt pulley - climatic installation compressor
• 7 - Polycline Belt

Relo-drive compressor

Instruction: The belt pulley of the electromagnetic coupling of the compressor -N421- is beyond the belt pulley - the cooling system pump. Polycline belt -4- passes through the belt pulley of the electromagnetic coupling of the compressor -N421-.

• 1 - Belt Pulley - Compressor
• 2 - Tension Roller
• 3 - belt pulley of the pump cooling system with belt pulley of the compressor electromagnetic coupling -N421-
• 4 - Polycline Belt

Removal and installation of the engine speed sensor -G28-

Engine speed sensor is installed in G28- is on the crankshaft sealing flange on the flywheel side. Remove the compressor. Remove the -1 sensor connector of the engine speed -G28-.

Remove the seal -2 block of cylinders and dismantle the engine speed sensor -G28- with the asset key -T10370-.

Installation

Install the engine speed sensor -G28- and tighten the screw of its fastening with a torque of 5 nm. Further installation is made in reverse sequence.

Head block cylinder

Instruction: When installing the exchange head of the cylinder block before mounting the camshafts, it is necessary to lubricate with engine oil contact surfaces Between the supporting elements, roller levers and laying camshafts. Plastic lining, protecting the open valves, delete only immediately before installing the GWC. When the cylinder head is replaced, you should also merge the old and pour a new cooling fluid. Lubricate all the reference and work surfaces before assembly.

• 1 - 20 nm
• 2 - TNVD for the power supply system, with an adjusting fuel pressure valve -N276-
• 3 - laying of wires, secure to the camshaft housing torque 8 nm
• 4 - to the air filter
• 5 - 10 nm
• 6 - Hall Sensor -G40- with clarity, when damaged, replace the sealing ring
• 7 - Studs, 6 nm
• 8 - 10 nm and trust 90 °, replace, tighten from the center to the edges
• 9 - Carter distributional shafts. To ensure that the oil circuit grid must be installed in the head of the cylinder block. Remove the remains of the old sealant, carefully clean the planting surfaces; They should not be oil and lubrication, before installing coat sealant -D 188 003 A1-, install vertically on the heels and pins
• 10 - 20 nm
• 11 - dressing for hanging
• 12 - turbocharger
• 13 - oil pressure sensor -F1-, 25 nm, with no tightness sealing ring and replace
• 14 - laying the head of the cylinder block, replace, metallic. After replacement, change the cooling fluid
• 15 - head of the cylinder block. To ensure that the oil circuit grid must be installed in the head of the cylinder block. On the sealing surfaces, there should be no oil and lubrication to the videoer of the camshafts, after replacement, change the cooling fluid
• 16 - guide fingers, 20 nm
• 17 - Installation Pin
• 18 - reference element, not change in places, with hydraulic valve gap compensation, lubricate the working surface
• 19 - valve roller lever (rocker], peak on the jerking roller bearing, lubricate the working surface, to fix the locking bracket on the support
• 20 - Sealing Ring. When removing and installing the housing of the camshaft bearings, it is necessary to take into account various seals, replace, 4 pcs., Insert into the GBC
• 21 - Cylinder head bolt, replace. Observe installation instructions and sequence when unscrewed and tightening
• 22 - roller pusher, slightly lubricate work surfaces by engine oil
• 23 - Sealing ring, replace, before replacing mooring with engine oil

Checking the GBC for the presence of warping

The maximum allowable curvature of the fit plane: 0.05 mm.

Removing the camshaft drive chain and oil pump drive chain

Raise the engine casing at points -1- and remove the casing, moving it forward in the direction of the shooter. Remove air filter. Merge coolant. Remove the cooling system hoses and guide triggers-stlocks.

Remove the fastening bolts and remove the plugs of the camshafts. Remove the first cylinder spark plug. Use the puller -T10094 A- and Candle wrench -3122 B-. Screw the adapter for the hourly type indicator -T10170- until it stops the spark plug socket. Insert the hourly type indicator -VAS 6079- with the extension agent -t10170 / 1- until it stops and press it with a nut-stick,

Scroll the crankshaft in the direction of rotation of the engine to the NTC of the cylinder 1. Remember the position of the small arrow of the hourly type indicator. Holes-stalks - for distribution praises should be located, as shown. If necessary, turn the crankshaft for another turnover (360 °).

Instructions: If the crankshaft was scrolled further to the NTC more, whose 0.01 mm, then it should be turned again against the direction of the engine rotation of about 45 ° in conclusion to bring the crankshaft in the direction of rotation of the engine in the cylinder NTC 1. The allowable deviation from the first cylinder : ± 0,01 mm.

Insert the camshaft fixture is -T10171 A- in the hole of the camshaft until it stops. Stop spectals - stalks 1- should enter the holes-stalk 2-. Mark "TOR" -C Greet 3- should be visible from above.

For fastening the fixture of camshafts -t10171 A- screw the bolt M6 and the corresponding hole-stalk - by hand; Do not delay.

Instruction: It should be borne in mind that for the fixture of camshafts -t10171a there are various attachment points.

Remove the timing of the timing. Remove the lid -1- with an asterisk of oil pump.

Nadavit on the tensioning bar with a hand-made arrows and fix the tensioner piston pins -T40Q11-.

Mark the target direction of the Timing Timing Timber --3-.

Instruction: Bolt fastening the phaseman -2- has the left thread.

Remove the bolts -2- and -4- and remove the gas distribution regulator -1- with the timing chain -3-. In this case, use to fix the support -t10172-.

Hold the stars of the oil pump using the support -T10172- and unscrew the mounting bolt -1-.

Press the stretch spring -1- with a screwdriver to a bolt -2- and remove the spring -1-. Remove the fastening bolt -3- and remove the chain tensioner. Mark the felt-tipset direction of the stroke of the oil pump drive -2-.

Unscrew the sprocket mounting bolt -1-and remove the stars -1- and -3, together with the oil pump chain -2-.

Installation

The crankshaft must be in the first cylinder VTT. To put an astrolochka -1- in-mail the arrows - until the crankshaft stop stops.

CAUTION: Cast protrusion -2-stars must enter the groove -3- on the crankshaft neck.

Mark the position of the sprocket and the crankshaft with a felt-tip pen relative to the cylinder block.

To lay the oil pump drive chain -3- on the asterisk -1 - and at the same time install an asterisk -2- on the drive shaft of the oil pump.

Instructions: Consider the stroke of the direction on the oil pump drive chain. The oil pump gear is adjacent only on the position on the oil pump of the oil pump.

Hold the operating gear of the oil pump support -t10172-. Tighten the new bolt fastening -1-moment 20 nm and trunnounce 90 °. Install the tensioner on the oil pump drive chain, and tighten the mounting bolt -3-point 15 nm. Press the stretch spring -1- with a screwdriver, based on the bolt -2-.

Instruction: Consider tags-storks. Do not turn the crankshaft.

Fasten an asterisk -3- manually with a new bolt. Mix the timing chain -1- on the strip of the crankshaft -4-, the strip of the camshaft camshaft -3- and fasten the gas distribution regulator -2- manually with a new mounting bolt.

Instructions: Take into account the direction of the direction of the camshaft drive chains. Check the installation of the centering sleeve between the camshaft of the inlet valves and the phase regulator of the gas distribution. The fastening bolt -2 is the left thread.

The camshaft drive chain should facilitate the chain -1 and lie on the camshaft-strollery gear.

Install the target tensioner -1- and tighten the screws -2-torque of 9 nm. Tensioning the timing chain of the gas distribution mechanism, pulling the locking pin -T40011 - from the chain tensioner. Check the location of the labels on the crankshaft gear and the cylinder block, they must be opposite each other.

Tighten the bolt -2-moment 40 nm, and the bolt -4-moment 50 nm (use focus -t10172-).

Instructions: Drink bolts -2- and -4- 90 ° only after checking the phases of gas distribution. The fastening bolt -2 is the left thread.

Unscrew the bolt-stot - and remove the fixator -T10171 A- with crankcase of camshafts. Check the gas distribution phases. If the gas distribution phases are in order. Hold the stars of distribution shafts support -T10172- and trust the bolts -2- (left thread) and -4-rigid key 90 °.

Instruction: Bolt fastening the phaseman -2- has the left thread. An asterisk when tightening bolts should not be scrolled on camshafts.

Install the oil pump lid -1-. Install Timing Case. Install crankshaft pulley. Install the polyclinic belt. Press the engine of the engine at points -1- in the direction of the stitching down to fixation. Further installation is made in reverse sequence.

Today we will tell about the replacement of the timing chain on Volkswagen Tiguan.Machine installed 1.4 TSI engine, gasoline. Pretty common motor. The car comes 5 fifth year, but the mileage is already very decent, 139 thousand kilometers. Timing chain Volkswagen Tiguan. Will be changed for the second time.

Customer Auto Center "Victory" for replacement chain timing Bought original spare parts. Other buying, we simply do not recommend. After replacing the timing chain, it is advisable to change and motor oil. We will spend this procedure immediately after replacement chain timing, after a couple of thousand kilometers - planned maintenance.

Volkswagen Tiguan When changing the timing chain

First, answer a simple question when you need replacing the timing chain? If you believe the regulations, on the 1.4 TSI motor, the chain changes once every 80,000 mileage kilometers. Based on our experience, we can say with confidence that the timing chain is stretched with a mileage of only 50 thousand kilometers. The question is how long the chain is stretched? You can check its condition using computer diagnostics. If the coal of stretching is more than 6 degrees - immediately needed amena chain timing. The opening will lead to the saddest consequences. Cut valves, overhaul Engine. The experienced mechanic of the "Victory" auto center for the replacement of the timing chain will take about 8 hours.

Volkswagen Tiguan What is needed to replace the timing chain

Often, many motorists are surprised why the list of spare parts at replace chain TRM Not limited to a chain, but consists of 10-15 items? Reply to this question. First, when changing the timing chain, you need to "open" the motor. All gaskets are disposable, it is impossible to put them for the second time. Therefore, we need a gasket of the timing chain cover and the phase adjustment sensor laying. The crankshaft gland is also subject to replacement. Set of screws, exactly exactly needed cover screws GRM And the crankshaft pulley attachment bolt. As for the timing chain itself, naturally, a new chain is needed, a chain tensioner, a tensioner shoe, it is desirable to replace the chain replaceer planks, two pieces. As you can see, buying only one chain is not limited to.

Volkswagen Tiguan how to change the timing chain