Preparation of a diesel car by winter. Diesel preparation for winter. Essential sprays rush to help

the main / KPP

Like all drivers remember the saying "Prepare Sani in the summer" since this old Russian proverb is more relevant for auto owners when the first snowflakes begin to fly. At the factory, in the manufacture, the car is prepared for operation not lower than -25 ° C.

Therefore, if in your region the temperature level falls below this mark, then the car must be prepared for such weather conditions, and this is done as follows:

First of all start with, namely the electrolyte level in rechargeable battery, and if required, add distilled water to the MAX mark.

Fully charge the battery and check (for all regions except the density of electrolyte - 1.28-1.29 g / cm²; for the north - 1.29-1.30 g / cm²);

Let's start everything in order:

Battery

When it is a relatively young (up to 3 years), then on the eve of winter enough from oxidation and fully charge.

When the battery is old and up rated tank It does not charge, then you need to change without mind, in the winter will probably bring it, because the container is weak, then with a decrease in temperature will fall even stronger. In addition, it will increase the load - heater, heated seats, light, wipers, glass heater ... and much more.

Winter tires are very important in winter, do not listen to those who recommend save on a set of winter tires, believe me, not worth saving on your own security, in treadmill Imaginary savings can turn into for you or your close tragedy. As a rule, "economists-advisers" most often become guests of cuvettes and pillars. Riding in winter by summer rubber dangerous not only for the owner itself, but also for other participants road. Next to such cars it is dangerous to move, the skid can happen at almost any moment and does not affect this actuator or the ability to drive a car. Therefore, if you don't care about yourself, think about others !!!
As you already know, tires or rubber are summer and winter, in addition, they are divided into studded and untapped. Tires with spikes in turn are classified by type of spikes, however, as the practice shows a simple driver, it is least interesting. The main criterion for selection of studded rubber are the conditions in which they will be operated. If your car is exploited to a greater extent on the asphalt road, which is often covered with a minor ice crust, it is quite enough to be not enough tires, it is more concerned with the owners of rear-wheel drive models. When driving around the thick layer of snow, studded rubber is almost useless, a thick loose layer of snow will equally slip and prevent the movement, both studded and ordinary winter Sheen. The studded rubber is perfect for those who are most of their time moves along a thick layer of ice or on country rolling hard roads. However, a big fear is that you bought "spikes", and winter was surprisingly warm - no, well, yes a little lost, but a little noisy when moving along asphalt, but it is much better than a cuvette or a frontal collision on all pairs.

Important!!! In no case do not make a "mix" front - studded, rear - non-sucking rubber, or, on the contrary, on slipping road Such a dissonance can turn into trouble even on a normal, not slippery pavement. Yes, and fine cannot be avoided.

Check out brake system, Want your own hands as it is written here, but you want using specialists a hundred, in addition, before the onset of cold weather, make a complete diagnosis of such systems as ABS, ESP, ASD, ASC + T, etc., if you have of course.

And winter, it is good check And cars and drivers. It is necessary to change the driving style, reduce the speed of movement, to slow down the engine more, planning maneuvers in advance, and do not make sudden movements. Do not forget about the cable, shovel and "crocodiles" for the battery in the trunk. Pour a good non-freeze. We often check tire pressure. It is said that the engine on modern cars is not necessary for a long time, but still at a minus temperature, let it work at idle 3-5 minutes, and warm up gently in motion the first 1-2 km. Yes, and about my miles: do not wash hot water in the cold, wipe the rubber parts of the doors and trunk well, do not put on the handbrake after washing with a strong minus (the pads are not able to touch).

Let us prepare yourself and our iron horses. Write in the comments about your winter hectares of operation!

In winter, working processes in the dieselle are noticeably complicated. The more viscous due to the low temperature fuel is worse through the nozzle, and the spray immediately "settles" in the form of dew on the walls of the combustion chamber. Its evaporation from the walls is difficult due to low temperature. The stal air, entering the cylinders, only aggravates the position, and after all, its temperature at the end of the compression should be higher than the temperature of the self-ignition of diesel fuel. It should also add thickened oil, which increased resistance of which you have to overcome when starting.

That is why for confident launch of a diesel engine in winter time In his combustion chambers, it is pre-create a "little tashkent". Starter and battery must develop power sufficient to force crankshaft "Push" pistons with high frequency, and diesel fuel It should not turn into "Kisel" and crystallized at low temperatures.

Now let's talk about what you need to do to prepare a diesel engine in operation in
Winter period.

Let's start with the battery. Diesels due to significant degrees of compression and higher than that of gasoline engines, launchers require the presence of high power accumulator (notice, it does not matter about the container), which is characterized by starting current. As a result of B. winter conditions It is not recommended to use batteries with starting current below 320 A on diesel engines, although on gasoline engines Akb with smaller standing currents do not create problems. Problems may occur with the battery, which served on a diesel engine for more than 3 years. Interestingly, it is worth rearranged it on a gasoline engine, as everything becomes in its place. Such casses should also be considered.

Be sure to check the electrolyte level. In the summer it is somehow forgotten, and sometimes it turns out that in the battery dry, as in a dry well.

Special attention The withdrawal terminals of the battery and the starter should be given, as well as the tips of the wires that must be cleaned of oxidation. At low temperatures, the capacity of the battery for natural reasons is significantly reduced, high transition resistances in electrical circuits are added to this. It does not hurt to cover the layer terminals plastic lubricantTo somehow protect them from salt action, which is much on the road in winter.

In the power system, it is necessary to drain sucks from the filter and fuel tank.

If the diesel in the summer worked with the "smoke", it makes sense to check and, if necessary, adjust the fuel injection advance angle. The failure of this parameter can greatly impede the launch of a cold motor. In the absence of experience independently adjust the angle of the injection should not, it is better to turn to the maintenance station.

Think maybe it is necessary to remove the mesh from the fence in the fuel tank. This mesh is the "beautiful" cork organizer. No matter how the compressor has to blow up the tank fuel line in the opposite direction. Let it be better for the diesel fuel filter.

For vehicles with a mileage of over 100,000 km, winter launch can greatly complicate insufficient compression in the diesel cylinders. "Blame" in this, usually worn out piston rings and cylinder sleeves. But what can you say if the owners put repair piston group Until the last moment. * In our latitudes, the thermometer column is rarely lowered to -25 ° C, so the use of all-zone motor oils Does not create difficulties in the work of diesel. The desire to "ease life" the starter and the battery with the use of low viscosity oils on SAE 10W-30 does not cause objections. However, 5W-30 oils are good, perhaps for Siberia, but not for our moderate frost.

The stal air, entering the cylinders, only aggravates the position, and after all, its temperature at the end of the compression should be higher than the temperature of the self-ignition of diesel fuel. It should also add thickened oil, which increased resistance of which you have to overcome when starting.

That is why for confident launch of a diesel engine in winter in his combustion chambers to pre-create a "little tashkent". Starter and must develop power sufficient to force the crankshaft "push" pistons with a high frequency, and diesel fuel should not turn into "Kisel" and crystallized at low temperatures.

Now let's talk about what you need to do to prepare a diesel engine in winter.

Problems may occur with the battery, which served on a diesel engine for more than 3 years. Interestingly, it is worth rearranged it on a gasoline engine, as everything becomes in its place. Such casses should also be considered.

Be sure to check the electrolyte level. In the summer it is somehow forgotten, and sometimes it turns out that in the battery dry, as in a dry well.

Special attention should be paid to the withdrawal terminals of the battery and the starter, as well as the tips of the wires that must be cleaned of oxidation. At low temperatures, the capacity of the battery for natural reasons is significantly reduced, high transition resistances in electrical circuits are added to this. It does not hurt to cover the terminals with a layer of plastic lubricant to somehow protect them from the action of salt, which is much on the road in winter.

In the system, you should drain sucks from the filter and fuel tank.

If the diesel in the summer worked with the "smoke", it makes sense to check and, if necessary, adjust the fuel injection advance angle. The failure of this parameter can greatly impede the launch of a cold motor. In the absence of experience, it should not regulate the angle, it is better to turn to the maintenance station.

For cars with a mileage over 100,000 km. Winter start can greatly complicate insufficient compression in diesel cylinders. "To blame" in this, usually worn piston rings and cylinder sleeves. But what can you say if the owners lay the repairs of the piston group until the last moment.

In our latitudes, the thermometer column is rarely lowered to -25 ° C, so the use of all-season motor oils does not create difficulties in the operation of a diesel engine. The desire to "ease life" the starter and the battery with the use of low viscosity oils on SAE 10W-30 does not cause objections. However, 5W-30 oils are good, perhaps for Siberia, but not for our moderate frost.

Lovers of aerosol cans with flammable makeups for starting motors Please remember: diesel engines May suffer greatly from overdose. Even 1 cm3 of this composition is able to break all the pistons - the arising loads are too large (the composition will ignore too early).

A few more articles from the section "

Diesel preparation for winter winter time is a difficult period for the operation of the car, especially if he is diesel. So what should be done so that diesel does not let go in winter: 1. Remove moisture from the tank. For this, various additives are sold in auto chemical stores. 2. Check and if necessary, replace the filter: fuel (coarse and thin cleaning) And air. 3. Check and if necessary, replace the glow candles. 4. If an intercooler is installed on the machine (the air cooling radiator supplied to the turbine into the engine), then it must be rinsed. 5. Check the battery service. Diesels due to significant degrees of compression and higher than that of gasoline engines, launchers require the presence of high power accumulator (notice, it does not matter about the container), which is characterized by starting current. As a result, in winter conditions, it is not recommended to use batteries with starting current below 320 A on diesel engines, although the batrol engines are not created with smaller starting currents of problems. Problems may occur with the battery, which served on a diesel engine for more than 3 years. The second stage of the preliminary preparation is to drain the fuel from the filter and the fuel tank. In the frosts, especially carefully follow the sump and get rid of its contents every 1000 km, the more now the cases are incorporated when water is also included in the gas station. The third is good diesel fuel, as for most summer varieties, the temperature of gelation -17 s; And the limit temperature of filterness -5 s !!! For winter varieties -26 C and -21 with respectively. But adding a good antigel can lower these indicators to -55 C and -47 with respectively. Many motorists in the summer completely manage to forget about the incandescent candles. But with a malfunction of just one such candle, it is absolutely impossible to launch a diesel engine in the cold. It must be said that in principle, the candles of incandescent are coping with their work well, especially on form and rowhecamic diesel engines. On average, the candle serves about 5 years. Check them more often: for this, the candle must be unscrewed from the head and bring it to it positive and negative wires from the battery. If after 10-20 seconds the caliling tube did not disperse and did not light up - you can safely throw this candle and acquire a new one. By the way, many are lazy to produce such checks and simply focus on the indicator on dashboard. "I caught fire - it means that the candles of incandescent are working and work!" - Some will think, however, this indicator may well be alarmed about starting inclusion even if there are malfunctions in electrocups, and the candles do not receive power at all. If the diesel in the summer worked with the "smoke", it makes sense to check and, if necessary, adjust the fuel injection advance angle. The failure of this parameter can greatly impede the launch of a cold motor. In the absence of experience independently adjust the angle of the injection should not, it is better to turn to the maintenance station. For vehicles with a mileage of over 100,000 km, winter launch can greatly complicate insufficient compression in the diesel cylinders. "To blame" in this, usually worn piston rings and cylinder sleeves. But what can you say if the owners lay the repairs of the piston group until the last moment. Fans of aerosol cans with flammable compositions for starting motors Please remember: diesel engines can suffer greatly from overdose. Even 1 cm3 of this composition is able to break all the pistons - the arising loads are too large (the composition will ignore too early). Nevertheless, the best solution of the "winter" problem is to date the use of preheatersFreshing a diesel engine on a timer in the absence of a host. Sometimes it's easier to make up for its acquisition and installation, but then do not experience any problems in the morning. He left the entrance, got into the car and went - the motor is already warm!

Battery

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