Operational capabilities Vehicle depend on its performance. This indicator is associated with various conditionsOne of which is the presence of rust. Rusty machine is not able to fully fulfill its functions, and requires repair work. If you cannot eliminate rust in a timely manner, it will grow up until the car fails. Therefore, when corrosion is detected, it should be eliminated as quickly as possible.

Many corrosion car owners are known a bit. The rust occurs due to the electrochemical reaction, as a result of which the body of the body gradually turns into iron oxide. The places affected by the reaction are covered by corrosion. The reaction takes part:

• anode - metal component of the body;
• electrolyte - water with a slight salt content;
• the cathode is a metal surface exposed to electrolytes.

Thus, if during the use of the vehicle periodically comes into contact with water, rust appears. In most cases, corrosion affects the zones of joints and chips.

Rust more often occurs in winter. This is due to the fact that in the chemical renegoxes used by the communal services, contains salts acting in the role of electrolyte.

Types of corrosion

1. Dry. This kind of rust occurs when the vehicle is stored in a dry place. Dry corrosion is characterized by sweating surface by car, but the visible focus is not detected. You can overcome dry rust with special substances.
2. Wet. It occurs in the form of pronounced surfaces of the surface of the surface. If it is not possible to eliminate rust in a timely manner, it will increase. The presence of end-to-end corrosion can lead to serious damage.

Depending on the type of rust, it is chosen to eliminate it.

Stage of appearance

Usually rust occurs after the accident. But under normal conditions, this is a natural process characterized by three stages:

• in the first stage, the corrosion of the car strikes the joints of the parts - eliminates with the help of sandpaper, or other subframes;
• the second stage is known as the "pile" - manifests itself by the emerging hearth surrounded by swollen paint;
• the third stage is characterized by the lesion of the metal case, and the appearance of holes in it - eliminate such lesions of the metal can be possible with the help of a full-fledged body restoration.

In order to prevent the first stage to flow into the following, the car periodically examines the presence of chips, shocks, and changes in color color. If timely notice when rust is begged, you can prevent serious problems.

Corrosion of the painted surface

Paintwork performs. The painted surface is protected from corrosion due to:

• water-repellent properties;
• low gas permeability;
• low record permeability indicator.

With the standard use of cars, the operational qualities of the paintwork gradually decrease due to the cause of natural wear. But sometimes the corrosion of the car body takes place for other reasons:

• when applying hard paint, defects were made;
• in the film of the paint coating, pores arose;
• the paint is inflicted with a thin film (the wings and other elements of the car bending are more often susceptible to this problem.

The prolonged impact of moisture on the vehicle coverage causes negative consequences - paint destruction appears. Many drivers do not know why in some cases the car is better stored on the street than to hide in the garage. If in the garage for storing auto high humidity, it is recommended to put on the street. Carrying will slow down the wear of the paint coating.

Sand salt mixture on the roads

Corrosion of the car during operation accelerates due to the effects of the sandy saline mixture on the roads. In the winter period, municipal services often use sand and salt, poured on the road. When warming ice and snow melting, forming water. It interacts with sand and salt, and forms a sandy salt mixture.

During operation, the mixture accumulates in damaged parts of the body, provoking the destruction of the paint and varnish coating. The body surface remains unprotected, and corrosion occurs. The greater the sandy saline mixture falls into damaged places, the stronger the rust spreads. With long-term exposure, the car is applied great harm. To protect the car from corrosion on the body, special substances are used.

Types of combating corrosion

Rust on the coating can be removed with your own hands. This task is carried out using:

• sandblasting machine or grinding machine (sandpaper paper is used as a budget counterpart);
• paper;
• paint Scotch;
• winds;
• rust converter ( special toolsold in auto parts stores);
• primers and fiberglass putty;
• rubber gloves;
• a set of fiberglass;
• paints and varnish.

The list of necessary fixtures varies depending on how much the coating is affected by rust. It is recommended that on tools and materials there is a designation that allows them to use them for processing a car. The methods of combating corrosion are three types:

• passive - used soil and painting;
• active - masses, sealants, anti-corrosion substances are used to combat rust;
• electrochemical - installation of an electronic device carrying the occurrence of rust from the body surface to the electrode (the removal of rust with an electrochemical way requires serious costs).

The most common due to the low cost is the first way. Corrosion elimination is steady:

• auto cleaned from dust and dirt;
• with damaged areas is considered rust;
• according to the purified zones, the rust converter is processed (the action is performed in gloves);
• the plot is processed using primer;
• after hardening the primer, paint and varnish are applied to the surface of the metal.

Body protection from manufacturers

To prevent the occurrence of rust by car, modern manufacturers vehicle Use their own protection. Before going on sale, the car passes anti-corrosion processing. The highest quality is the protection of the body from German and Japanese manufacturers.

The most common options for factory protection are:

• paints and varnishes;
• galvanized;
• anodizing.

The last method is the most reliable, and is provided with special devices. Modern technologies Help to avoid re-occurrence of rust, but such devices are installed mainly only on expensive models.

Serial vehicles foreign production Usually after the manufacture is covered with a protective film or zinc layer. But such coatings have a limited operational period. If the car gets damage, they will stop acting.

Some firms apply galvanized with special metals. But this practice is not extended to all cars.

Conditions for car storage

Metal corrosion on the car appears in raw materials. The vehicle is allowed to be stored in a garage with a low moisture rate. The room must be ventilated and clean.

• conduct a heating system;
• clear pollution completely;
• install the ventilation system.

Methods for extending body life

Rust from the car is easy to eliminate with their own hands. But many do not know what to do for its warning. To extend the operating period of the body, and prevent corrosion, several tips should be performed. To combat corrosion, you can:

• treat the surface with water-repellent substances;
• apply noise insulating tool;
• cover the body vinyl film that prevents the occurrence of scratches and chipping;
• the lower part of the body to handle the auto station;
• apply a protective film from zinc particles.

Spots differs high cost, so it is recommended to be performed as an additional step. Another expensive option is the protectors for the car. If the car already has a rust, the actions described only can be carried out after restoration.

Are imported cars from corrosion protected

Import vehicle brands are made with additional protection. But it is temporary. Its operating period depends on the quality of the roads for which the car drives.

After a few years, the protection decreases, due to which the car becomes subject to corrosion. Therefore, in the presence of import models, the same precautions are observed as when using domestic cars.

What is the body? The design of thin sheet metal, with different alloys and with many welded connections. And I still do not need to forget that the body is used as a "minus" for the on-board network, that is, constantly spends the current. Yes, he is just obliged to rust! Let's try to figure out what happens with the car body and how to deal with it.

What is rust?

The corrosion of iron or steel is the process of oxidation of metal with oxygen in the presence of water. At the exit, hydrated iron oxide is obtained - loose powder, which we all call rust.

The destruction of automobile bodies belong to the classic examples of electrochemical corrosion. But water and air is only part of the problem. In addition to conventional chemical processes, electroplated pairs arising between electrochemically inhomogeneous pairs of surfaces play an important role.

I already see how a bored expression arises on the faces of humanitarians. Do not scare the term "electroplating pair" - we will not lead to lectures in chemistry and complex formulas. This pair in the particular case is just a connection of two metals.

Metals, they are almost like people. Do not love when someone else is pressed against them. Imagine yourself on the bus. You pressed a rumpled man, yesterday I celebrated with your friends some day of the assemblyboard. This in chemistry is called an invalid galvanic pair. Aluminum and copper, nickel and silver, magnesium and steel ... These are "sworn enemies", which in a close electrical connection very quickly "will devourge" each other.

Actually, no metal for a long time withstands close contact with a stranger. Think ourselves: even if the figureful blonde (or a slim brown, to taste) pressed against you, then the first time would be nice ... But you won't be so standing all my life. Especially in the rain. Where does it rain? Now everything will become understandable.

In the car there are a lot of places where galvanic pairs are formed. Not unacceptable, but "ordinary". Points of welding, body panels from different metal, various fastening elements and aggregates, even different points of one plate with different mechanical surface treatment. Between them, all the potential difference is constantly there, which means that corrosion will be in the presence of electrolyte.

Stop, and what is the electrolyte? An inquisitive motorist will remember that this is a certain eating fluid, which is poured into batteries. And only partly right. Electrolite is generally any substance conducted. A weak acid solution is poured into the battery, but it is not necessary to water the machine with an acid to speed up corrosion. With electrolyte functions perfectly copes ordinary water. In the pure (distilled) form, it is not an electrolyte, but in the nature of pure water does not occur ...

Thus, in each generated galvanic pair, under the influence of water, the destruction of the metal on the side of the anode begins is a positively charged side. How to defeat this process? We cannot prohibit metals from corroded from each other, but we can exclude electrolyte from this system. Without it, "permissible" galvanic pairs can exist for a long time. Longer than the car serves.

How do the manufacturers fight with rust?

The easiest way to protect is to cover the surface of the metal with a film through which the electrolyte will not penetrate. And if the metal is also good, with a low content of impurities that contribute to corrosion (for example, sulfur), the result will be quite decent.

But do not perceive words literally. Film is optional polyethylene. The most common type of protective film - paint and soil. It can also be created from metal phosphates, processing the surface with phosphating solution. The phosphorus-containing acids included in its composition are oxidizing the upper layer of metal by creating a very durable and thin film.

Having absorbed phosphate film by the layers of soil and paint can be protected by the body of the car for many years, it was according to such a "recipe" the body for dozens of years, and, as you can see, quite successfully - many cars of production of the fifties and sixties were able to preserve until our time.

But not all, because with time the paint is prone to cracking. At first, the outer layers are not maintained, then the cracks get to metal and phosphate film. And with accidents and subsequent repair, the coatings are often applied, without observing the absolute cleanliness of the surface, leaving small corrosion points on it, which always contain some moisture. And under the captive paint begins to appear a new focus of destruction.

You can improve the quality of the coating, apply all the more elastic paints whose layer can be slightly reliable. Can be covered with plastic film. But there is best technology. The coating has become a thin layer of metal having a more resistant oxide film, has long been used. The so-called white tin is a sheet steel covered with a thin layer of tin, familiar to everyone who at least once in his life saw a cans.

Tin for covering machine body machines have not been used for a long time, although the bikes about tinned body go. This is the echo of the brand correction technology when stamping with hot solders, when a portion of the surface was manually covered with a thick layer of tin, and sometimes the most complex and important parts of the body of the car and the truth turned out to be well protected.

Modern coatings to prevent corrosion are applied in the factory conditions before stamping body panels, and zinc or aluminum is used as "rescuers". Both of these metal, in addition to the presence of a durable oxide film, have another valuable quality - less electronegitability. In the already mentioned galvanic pair, which is formed after the destruction of the outer film of paint, they, and not steel will play the role of the anode, and while there are few aluminum or zinc on the panel, they will be destroyed. This property can be used otherwise, simply adding a little powder of such metals into the ground, which is covered with metal, which will give the body panel an additional chance for a long life.

In some industries, when the task is to protect the metal, use other technologies. Serious metal structures can be equipped with special plates of aluminum and zinc protectors, which can be changed over time, and even electrochemical protection systems. With the help of a voltage source, such a system transfers the anode to some parts of the structures that are not supporting. On cars, such things are not found.

The multilayer sandwich consisting of a layer of phosphates on the surface of steel or zinc, a layer of zinc or aluminum, anti-corrosion soil with zinc and several layers of paint and varnish, even in a very aggressive external environment like ordinary urban air with moisture, mud and salt allows you to save bodybar on Ten or another years.

In places where the paint layer is easily damaged (for example, the thick layers of sealants and mastic, which additionally protect the surface of the paint are used. We are accustomed to call it "anticorrosive". In addition to the internal cavities, the compositions based on paraffin and oils, their task to push out moisture from the surfaces, thereby even improving protection.

None of the ways alone gives one hundred percent protection, but together they allow manufacturers to give an eight-ten-year warranty for the absence of end-to-end corrosion of the body. However, it must be remembered that corrosion is like death. Its arrival can be slowed down or postpone, but it is impossible to exclude at all. In general, what are we talking rust? That's right: "Not today." Or, paraphrasing the modern classic, "not this year."

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How to cope with rust on the car body?

Rust on the car body is a nightmare for any car owner. If you do not eliminate corrosion on time, then after a short time it will quickly spread through the body and bottom and rebound metal up to the holes. To avoid such negative consequences, you need to know about the various methods of combating rust.

Before talking about the various methods of struggle, you need to figure out why the car's body rusts. This process is described in detail in chemistry textbooks: with the interaction of iron with water, air, acids and alkalis, chemical reactions occur, as a result of which we get oxide of iron and hydrogen.

Since the body of any car is a thin sheet of steel with a layer of paintwork, the main task of anti-corrosion processing is to protect steel from direct contact with the environment.

Do it with the help of various means, we have already written about many of them:

• - effectively pushes water from the surface of the machine;
• - anti-corrosion protection of body and noise insulation;
• - covering them body, you avoid the appearance of small scratches and chips;
• waving - effective method, especially on the eve of the upcoming winter, when on the road;
• galvanized - one can say the most reliable method, although expensive;
• electrochemical - contradictory techniques using devices of type "Rust Stop" or "Final Cath".

When you buy new car, then he, as a rule, passed all the necessary anti-corrosion processing. In this regard, German and japanese carsbecause their manufacturers apply all available funds - the same Dinitrol for the bottom and wheel arches, Special water-repellent paintwork materials, galvanized. This is easy to make sure that comparing the state of any Audi A100 1990 of the release and domestic VAZ-2104.

Chinese style budget cars, for example Chery Amulet or Lifan X60, do not differ good protection against rust, respectively, rusting the body very quickly in the most problematic places:

• thresholds;
• wheeled arches;
• places of articulation of details.

Thus, if you want the car to serve as longer as possible, use any of the above methods.

And what if the first traces of corrosion fired on the body?

Rust removal

The slightest chip paint when the base is opened, you must immediately eliminate.

Several options are possible:

• small damage that do not get to the base is polished;
• a layer of soil is visible - local painting;
• deep cracks - processing damaged space with subsequent painting, varnishing and polishing.

It is worth saying that often such scratches are not visible because of the layer of dirt and dust, but after washing they are noticeable. Polishing of shallow chips is reduced to applying a transparent varnish or a special polyrolol. If the soil and metal are visible, then it is necessary to select the appropriate paint and varnish.

Deeply emerged corrosion to win much more difficult, for this will have to buy a rust converter.

The algorithm of action is as follows:

• clean the damaged parts of the body - the sandpaper or grinding nozzles of medium grain on the drill will be suitable;
• either process anti-corrosion compositions (WD-40, Rust Killer, Rust Treatment) - they not only dissolve iron oxide, but also degrease metal;
• next, act on a simple scheme - putty (if there were dents), applying primer, then paint and varnish;
• polishing.

It is clear that it is better to charge this work to those skilled in the art that will be able to choose the desired shade and all correctly polish - there will be no trace from dents and cracks.

There is also such a service as a galvanized - it is done in the home conditions when zinc in the form of a subtle plaque settles on problem places.

They write a lot about electrochemical protection that protects against the very appearance of corrosion. This method Many are doubtful because small plates are under low voltage trailers. Such devices are quite expensive, and their effectiveness is not proven, therefore, seasonal anti-corrosion treatment will be much cheaper once a year before the winter onset.

Hello everyone! In this article, consider an interesting topic, how to remove rust and bugs from the car body.

It is the most common and common problem with which motorists have to deal with the car maintenance. Damage to the corrosion body is very difficult to stop. To do this, it is necessary to make a timely a number of protective measures to ensure the safety of the body, which further eliminate damage.

The most common cause of body damage is the small rubble, which carries out from under the wheels of counter-or passing vehicles, as well as chemical reagents that are used in order to reduce the icing of the carriageway and sidewalks.

Motorists often ask the question: "How to remove rust from the car body?" I will try to briefly answer this question.

The process of removing corrosion from the body of the car consists of several stages:

• car washing, with removal of dirt and dust on the car body;
• drying body;
• body studies for the presence of areas of damaged rust, chipping and cracks of paint with a mandatory inspection of the arches of the wheels, thresholds, the bottom of the car and a thorough sex survey inside the car;
• places damaged by bugs must be highlighted using adhesive tape;
• body preparation for rust removal work;
• work on the removal of corrosion;
• additional processing of stripped areas from rust;
• applying putty with eye treatment before creating a smooth surface;
• coloring prepared sections.

Car wash

The process of car wash is carried out manually or using means of mechanization using special sprayers. The sink must be carried out outside and inside the body, as well as motor and luggage departments With simultaneous inspection of metal surfaces.

To increase the efficiency of the sink process, it is necessary to use auto-pumps that provide a thorough, gentle cleaning of the body, prepare the body for carrying out the necessary work. The auto-shampoo easily flushes dirt, salt and fats. Returns the surface natural shine, protects the paintwork. The tool does not contain wax, does not remove the polyroli, does not leave stains and strips. The composition of the auto-mapping does not contain phenols, formaldehyde preservatives and other toxic components.

For manual washing, there was the most common distribution: shine premium, luxury premium, car-wash, biolus.

When applied automatic washing The stations are widely used by the koch chemie series.

Car body drying

The drying of the car body can be carried out in vivo or with the help of fan heaters. After washing, the car should wipe well, removing all drops of water, which in the drying process under the rays of the Sun can lead to the formation of spots on the body surface.

Inspection of the body, the selection of areas with a damaged surface requires immediate installation of protective covers to prevent chemical preparations and paints during painting work.

Conducting rust removal

With long-term operation of the car, especially with a humid climate (and not only), damage "bugs" is formed on the body. How to remove "bugs" from the car body?

For metal processing, two main methods use two main methods for the purpose of removing rust:

• mechanical;
• chemical.

The type of repair associated with the cleaning of bugs with the car with your own hands is usually carried out in a personal garage using a set of tools for car service.

Mechanical method

How to remove bugs on the body? For this place, damaged rust, usually, is treated with an eyebrow or metal brush. The cleaning of the damaged place in the initial stage is carried out by a coarse-grained skin, with the transition in the future processing process on fine-grained skirt.

Skin treatment can be carried out by "dry" or "wet" way. With the "wet" method, the metal surface is moistened with kerosene or white alcohol.

Video: How to remove the bug (a small rusty spot) on the roof of the car.

Applying a metal brush for cleaning, care must be taken, since the metal indoose corrosion, it is easy to destroy.

Rust can be removed from the car body and with a grinding machine. For this, a typical slift is suitable, with which the rust layer is removed and the place of damage is finished to obtain a smooth surface without traces of rust, fine-grained grinding skurt.

Highly good result It gives the use of a sandblasting machine to clean, which combines high efficiency and prevent body damage. The removal of rust with a sandblasting machine is carried out by cleaning the metal of a jet of air with sand particles. Such a method allows to carry out high-quality cleaning of bug damage.

Video: Sandblasting pistol.

Video: What tool can remove corrosion on the car.

It should be noted that when using cleaning mechanisms, protective glasses and gloves must be used, observing safety standards.

Chemical method

With a chemical method of removing corrosion from the car body, various rust converter reagents are used. They are able to prevent the spread of corrosion in the place of damage. Companies producing autocossetics offer a wide range of various means.

1. Among the motorists, the composition of the "Rust Rust-1" neutralizer was widely known, after processing which the rust is converted into a gray substance that is easily removed by the rag.

2. The most commonly used means for removing rust from the body of a car - orthophosphoric acid, which is part of many rust conversion preparations.

3. Recently, motorists use a zinc spray that forms a protective film from zinc particles on a damaged place, thereby preventing metal revival.

In retail stores, a special zincor-car kit consisting of a solution for degreasing and removing rust, as well as a solution for the formation of a metal coating with a protective film of zinc particles.

When using a set, the place of rust damage is processed, and then with the help of electrodes it is connected to the battery and zinc particles are formed on the surface of the metal. In the process of electrochemical reaction, the zinc particle is covered with a metal, forming a protective film.

Video: Removal of rust and metal by electroplating with a set of zincor-car.

Additional treatment

After stripping from the rust of the body, the degreasing surface is applied to the place of damage and after drying another layer of anti-corrosion soil, but this is if the metal is clean. And if it happened that after cleaning the metal remained covered with the factory soil, then the need for primer disappears.

Primers are used to protect the metal surface and ensure the best adhesiveness of the applied substances. Primers produce three types:

• primer or soil equalizer;
• sealant.

Putty and painting body

A spacure layer is applied to the treated surface, which is processed using moisture resistant, aligns to a flat surface. The putty can be applied in several layers, and each time is aligned with sandpaper until it gives to her smooth surface. And the last step before is the application of the primer.

Corrosion strikes metal parts of the machine, despite their age. A little unfavorable weather conditions and the enamel is already peeling, as a rust is formed in her place. The reason may be incorrectly applied paint, so this problem is sooner or later overtakes each driver, and it is wondering how to eliminate corrosion on the car?

Of course, you can contact a specialist in the car service, they will eliminate rust and restore damaged enamel. But be prepared to give a considerable amount of funds for such services.

If you are not ready to say goodbye to her and you want to control the process yourself, you will try to make it possible, and this article will help you.

Why corrosion occurs

The destruction of the metal comes from affecting it adverse environmental factors.

Corrosion is a wider concept than rust, which is likely to be attributed to its variety. It occurs not only from water exposure, but also the chemicals that are in it.

In connection with this, the bottom of the machine and its body suffers from corrosion.

Corrosion is there dry and wet. If the parts of the car are in a dry environment, such as a garage, and still swelling, they need anti-corrosion processing.

Dry corrosion is not so detrimental for the case. But wet corrosion is much worse, the metal is covered with a layer of rust and grow regularly.

If the process has just begun, it is necessary to fight it until it originates, because further it will be much more complicated.

If you put your car in a heated garage with cold air in winter time Day, in this version, the risk of metal destruction increases in case of poor hood in the garage.

A sharp temperature difference contributes to the appearance of condensate on metal, and the rust proceeds to the destructive effect.

Rust most often formed in those who do not work in the cleaning of the bottom during the cold time. Such a procedure gives only a short-term effect, the auto needs regular care.

After another trip outside your garage, it is necessary to clean the bottom from sand and water again. Permanent prophylaxis reduces the risk of corrosion formation.

It is not necessary to detenuate that only in the cold season, paintwork suffers.

It is worth noting that in the warm time, particles of asphalt and sand fly in it, in which case measures must also be taken, then you do not have to reflect on what kind of way to choose to remove rust.

Corrosion varieties

Given the peculiarities of damage and corrosion types, it is possible to determine how to eliminate rust from the car body.

1. Cosmetic corrosion may occur in places where the car accessories are tightly in contact with the body.

For example, lanterns, radiator grille, moldings and much more. Rust on these sites is eliminated at the very beginning, and in the end there are no serious damage.

But if you don't do anything with it, it will turn into the following type of corrosion.

2. Burnt corrosion occurs under the coating in the form of certain foci of rust. They can grow not only deep into, but also expand and if they do not respond, then everything can turn into a heaving form of rust.

3. Through corrosion It is considered the final stage of destruction at which the through holes are formed, and the metal itself is in the end easily makes itself a solid object.

4. Point corrosion precedes through, problems arise in the depths of the metal, and then the problem grows already sewn.

5. Stained corrosion covers large territory Body part of the car. Over time, it turns into end-cutting with irreversible consequences of destruction.

Places where rust appears most

The negligence leads to the appearance of an increasing number of foci of infection. However, whatever efforts make a motorist, corrosion may appear on the wings, the bottom, the thresholds of the car.

Do not often occur corrosion inside and outside the surface of the hood and trunk. But even these sites can be amazed if you leave the car in the open air in the cold season, during the rain or under the snow.

Details that come into contact with the overhead elements are the most unprotected areas that can hit rust.

Sometimes the flooring is subjected to sections of the floor that are under the seats and drivers of the driver. If small manifestations of corrosion are visible in these sites, they must be removed.

It is always necessary to remind yourself that even dry corrosion due to indifference and wasted spent time, develops into the through.

Immediately take action so that everything is not turned into serious problems.

Metal processing Auto from rust in garage conditions

Before proceeding with the processing process, it is necessary to prepare thoroughly by purchasing required tools For work, as well as materials of possible coverage.

If you have an unlimited budget, then be sure to pay attention to the special chemistry designed for the car, as well as the grinding machine, and the sandblasting machine.

If you are not going to contact the car service with this question every time, but you will decide it yourself, then these tools will still be useful.

The machine will speed up the whole process as a whole, while all the work will be produced qualitatively and without a special force application.

Attentiveness and accuracy of movements are important factors in this work. In the future, the same typewriter can be applied in the process of repairing the body, when painting and not necessarily buy the most expensive model, the rest also cope with their tasks.

Sandblasting apparatus is a very expensive acquisition, but it is so necessary when working with corrosion. Such devices can be seen at service centers. The most expensive of them have additional features - the abrasive recycling function.

Sand under pressure will fly up in all directions, so a plot is needed that will be fenced from the main premises.

If your garage is a limited room, then for cleaning, you will have to use brushes and skins of various sizes, which significantly increases the operation time and the forces applied to it.

Car processing from rust in garage conditions It is impossible without procurement of the following chemicals: a degreaser, a rust converter, a putty, anti-corrosion soil.

What they need to consider below, and do not forget to buy a couple of gloves to protect yourself when working with these substances.

All methods of combating rust bodies

Before proceeding with the metal, it is necessary to detect corrosion. For work it is better to choose a warm day to wash and dry the car.

When you determine the places affected by rust, study its depth of penetration and then try to choose one of the existing methods to eliminate it.

1. Working with the sandblasting machine allows cleaning with penetration at all pores of the metal.

The surface remains the same both in thickness and in structure. The smallest particles of sand spend the active bombing of corrosion.

Rust is pushed with sand and washed away.

2. Grinding with the help of the device. Rust coverage is destroyed, it is cleared simply to the metal, this method is as fast as possible and efficient.

The only minus, which, with corrosion, cannot be avoided - the thickness of the metal being processed is reduced.

3. Grinding manually is carried out using a metal brush or skins, come across the working surface.

Scotch brands and abrasive discs also apply to the method. This method can be considered the cheapest, while you will always get into the difficult places.

This method provides that the fact that will suffer with all this and the thickness of the metal.

It is worth noting that in some cases it is even more appropriate to apply mechanical cleansing and treat chemicals. Rust transducers are sprayed from the canola or brush.

When the substance is applied, it is necessary to leave it for a while, and then wash off with water. The body is necessary to dry and apply an anti-corrosion substance.

Body without protection is not left for a long time. In the market are also immentable anti-corrosion products. They can not be caught in paint, because it simply will not hold onto them.

Entering a reaction with rust, a special structure is created that is easy to go to the metal surface.

Therefore, such funds are best used in places where the surfaces are processed not to come across the eyes, and which requires additional painting.

Now you are oriented which method will be suitable for the removal of rust, and then it is worth moving to the main stages of work

The main stages of surface cleaning

Deciding with the method of eliminating rust, you can proceed to the initial processing.

As a result of stripping, the surface must be smooth, clean and smooth. If the work is carried out with one spot, then it is necessary to clean the corrosion center slightly more. This stage is very laborious, because the work is carried out by the usual skirt.

The next stage will be degreasing the site, working with rust converter and aggressive fluids, so gloves will be required.

After cleaning the surface from the converter, apply primer to the surface. If the level differences are visible, then without a spatula of the surface can not do.

If the corrosion managed to destroy the body completely, then it is necessary to use fiberglass putty, which will make it possible to close the holes.

If the holes are large, then without a special set with fiberglass, the epoxy resin can not do. The set presents the instruction, according to which it is necessary to apply a coating.

Additional tips on eliminating corrosion from the machine:

1. For a comfortable grinding process manually, it is recommended to make the White Spirit skirt. Places that are to be processed are indicated by a tape or on top there is a cardboard stencil.

2. Rust converter can be done on its own, dissolving in 2 liters of water 10 ml citric acid and 20 grams of soda. After applying this fluid, part of the rust should move away.

3. The dishwashing detergent can be used instead of a degreasing.

4. To find the desired color for your car, you can always take advantage computer diagnosticwhich will provide a specialist.

5. If small sections are subject to recovery, you can purchase special paint pencils that quickly dry into the details.

Now you can always cope with corrosion and protect your car from the exposure to the external environment or correct what corrosion has done.

How to react to email detachment?

The reason can be not only corrosion, but also the deformation of some details. The former enamel will not become, but it is possible to return it using the grinding method.

With the detached paint, we act in the same way as with corrosion.

For these works used skins for grinding. At the first stage, for more efficient removal of the paint layer, use coarse-grained skins, then you need to walk through the entire surface of the fine-grained skin.

Upon completion of the work we get a smooth surface without stripes.

If you have a hand on the surface, there should be no sensation of the transition, only then you can degrease the surface and cover it with wax for polishing.

Do all the above procedures and your car will be as new, ready to operate. But still try to pay attention to the care and warn the appearance of corrosion.

Cleanliness and dryness are the main criteria for metal.