How to close a hole in the car. Repair of through corrosion of the car body without welding. Sealing point holes

Repair of a rusty body do it yourself "\u003e
How to get rid of rust on is a question that most owners of used cars are worried. There are not many options, go to the maintenance station, or do a problem on your own. Many people do not know how to fight rust on the car body, so often they just smear paint, but this method does not save for a long time, but the rust is not fatal, so we consider ways to get rid of it.

Rust not through

Body has small holes

Hammer solder

Application of poplats

We remove rust from the car body - a step-by-step description from "A" to "I"

Corrosion sooner or later may appear on any car, and the sooner you start fighting it, the less the body will suffer. But how to get rid of rust so that on the affected area she no longer appeared and at the same time the car returned an attractive look? A gradual description of the rust removal process with the subsequent protection of the body from corrosion, we have prepared for you in the article.

1 Body preparation, or where to get started?

Before removing the foci of rust from the body, it is necessary to thoroughly wash it so that the car's surface is perfectly clean. The fact is that the affected areas are poorly visible on the dirty surface, besides, without compliance with this requirement it is impossible to qualitatively follow the subsequent finish and protection of metal from corrosion.

If access to the affected corrosion is hampered by access due to other parts, they must be dismantled. It may be a bumper, molding, turn signal, emblem, etc. In addition, the surfaces around the affected rust area must be saved by painting scotch, so as not to damage them in the process of work and not stain paint. This prepared actions end.

2 Body repair materials - Tools

To high quality and quickly get rid of home from rust on the car body, you must prepare the following set of tools:

• angle grinding machine or even an ordinary electric drill with a special nozzle in the form of a metal brush;
• sandpaper with abrasive P120, P600 and P1000;
• rust converter type "zincar";
• degreaser;
• polyester resin for lamination and glass cholester.
• anticorrosive primer;
• putchal with fiberglass;
• spacure without filler (finish);
• paint.

I must say that there are repair kits for the fight against rust, such as "zincor-car". They contain three components - the rust converter, a degreaser and an anti-corrosion coating, as a rule, based on zinc. Such sets allow to eliminate small foci of corrosion.

3 We remove corrosion with minimal loss of forces and time

As you know, there are two methods of combating corrosion:

The greatest effect can be achieved if you fight rust comprehensive. Therefore, we will further apply both methods at once.

We start working with mechanical processing of rusty places. To do this, it is better to use the grinder or an electric drill, as it is high enough to clean it hard and long. Rust must be removed with the old paint and the layer of old soil, i.e. It is necessary to work before the appearance of a pure shiny metal not only on an affected rust plot, but also a plot around it, a width around centimeter-two. When the surface is cleaned, pass the P600 sandpaper from above, if necessary, clean the hard-to-reach places manually.

If you do not have the power tool at hand, you will have to eliminate the paint manually. To do this, use the skin with a grain P120. Then make the P600 brand in the skurt. If the metal rotted through, it is necessary to expand the hole to the "live" metal. The prepared surface is then treated with rust converter. Chemical Allows you to get rid of microscopic traces of corrosion.

Do not use more rough sandpaper than P120, as it will leave deep scratches on the surface, which will have to put out.

Before using the composition, shake it carefully. Then, with the help of a sprayer, tassels or even rags, apply a liquid so that the surface is carefully moocked. After that, stop working and wait until the composition is completely dry. Next, process the surface with a metal brush to remove the residues of the converter that did not react, as well as the transformed sandpaper.

For the greatest effect, the procedure must be repeated. At the end of operation, the processed area must be thoroughly rinsed with water and then wipe dry with a cloth. Note that this is a mandatory requirement that cannot be neglected.

By this principle, process all rusty points on the surface of the car.

Most often, corrosion appears on the doors under moldings, where dirt and moisture accumulates, as well as on the thresholds. Therefore, dismantle all the attached parts on these areas, as the rust can be hidden under them.

4 We restore the damaged area

So, with the removal of rust, we successfully coped. Now it is necessary to immediately begin the anti-corrosion processing of the prepared area, otherwise, after a few days, new traces of corrosion will begin to appear on the surface. Work is starting with metal wip degreasing. To do this, simply feed the rags in the liquid and then wipe the stripped metal.

Next, it is necessary to apply anticorrosive soil on the surface. It not only protects the metal from corrosion, but also improve adhesion between the base and putty or paint and varnish material. The soil is applied using a sprayer or ordinary brush. After drying the first layer, apply the second layer and then the third one. Read more about the use of soil, read in the instructions from the manufacturer. The fact is that different soils have their own nuances that need to be considered when applied. Thus, treat the primer all stripped from corrosion space.

Anticorrosive primer allows you to stop the process of corrosion development. Therefore, if necessary, after its application, you can take a break in work, but it's not worth it anyway.

After that, you need to close holes, if, of course, they are available. For sealing a small hole, use the fiberglass putty. Apply it with a spatula as an ordinary solid surface. Due to the sufficiently thick consistency and the presence of fiberglass in the structure, it will not fall into the hole.

If the hole is more, with a diameter of 2-3 cm, with the back of the metal, you can put the greasy tape. If the hole is large, i.e. More than 3-4 cm in diameter, it can be sealed with a glassball, which is glued with a polyester resin. To do this, pre-cut the glass of the glass bag so that it will be placed on the 5-10 centimeters to overlap intact metal. Then mix the resin with the hardener, as a rule, the latter is added in an amount of 3% of the amount of resin.

Keep in mind that the "vitality" resin is about 10 minutes, after which it hardens and grab. Therefore, immediately after kneading, apply it to a brush on the prepared surface and attach a fiberglass latch to this section. Melt the surface of the planes to the resin so that it is completely soaked. After pouring the resin, it must be pasted with sandpaper to remove all major irregularities.

If the body damage is insignificant, the surface can not even be putty, it is enough to apply several layers of soil, after which you can start painting.

Then apply the finish or universal putty to the surface with a thin layer, trying to smooth it as careful as possible. After drying, the coating is cleaned by the sandpaper "zero". Next, the surface must be carefully cleaned from dust. In order for the paint, the spots did not show up and the paint itself was well, apply another layer of primer on the surface. After soaring, the soil must be pulled by the sandpaper "zero", pre-operated in water.

After that, the prepared surface must be painted. To repair a small area, you can use the paint in the canister. If you need to cut a very small plot, you can use a repair pencil with paint or paint in small tubes, which is sold with a tassel like a female nail polish. On this, actually, repair of the body of the machine and completed. The only thing can be applied on top of the paint varnish and then polish it.

We suggest you finally get acquainted with some useful advice By removing rust:

• the best quality of corrosion removal by mechanical way can be achieved using a sandblasting machine, since it allows you to process even the smallest pores, but does not change the thickness of the metal;
• to eliminate rust with a chemical way, immersible transducers can be used, which convert rust into a protective film suitable for applying finishing materials;
• if the grip rust is carried out manually, wet the sandpaper in White-Spirit, which will slightly increase the efficiency of work;
• if you do not have a rust converter, make it with your own hands. For this, two liters of water add grams of 15-20 oxalic acid, as well as a bit citric acid and food Soda. The resulting liquid needs to be treated by corrosion areas and wait 3-5 minutes. Then the surface must be rinsed well;
• instead of a degreaser, you can use the usual detergent for dishes;
• when the rust is removed, overlaps a piece of paint from the car and save it, it will make it possible to accurately choose the paint for the body color.

Here, perhaps, all the highlights, knowing which you even can perform high-quality repair of the body of your car.

Honda Accord Lastona\u003e Logbook\u003e Through corrosion. You are not praaavically uncle Fedor Sandwich Eat ...

Pretty glazed on bortovikov in the portal, I decided to tease the article (I could not stand the soul), towards the repair through corrosion Body. Our ancient cars, a quarter of a century, how not to twist. And Honda in those distant times had not yet bothered to galvanizing the body, and the hosts of the car were not changed little, and saw anyone.

Experience in this area, I was podnabl after the union collapsed, when the sailors began to sweep the auto balls in Europe and to put it out of the powers that were not spoiled by the machines. Any foreign cars were in the wonder and went out like hot bail cakes. The sailor tried to take the cheaper (if for sale), and leading to the divine appearance, to sell with profit. Being a guy with hand (in Batka), I willingly help the people to sculpt from g ... on candy, stuffing your hand, gaining experience and entertainment for the sake of between watch and recreation.

So ... I dare to say that in most cases, when repairing through corrosion of housings, there is no need for the use of welding. You can boil when replacing the entire panels (which is often inappropriate), or to restore the power frame of the body (spars, racks, alternate, etc.). The same, wings, doors, aprons and other elements, including the arches of the wheels, are quite amenable to durable (not ashamed to emphasize it), repair using special fiberglass spackets. They were created for this, for holes through corrosion.

Holes with a fist, can easily be embossed, only the right approach is important.
Having found such a hole (you don't need to tear your hair and sprinkle ashes a head), we try to clean the rust to the maximum. There are many modern tools for this, but I will consider the cheapest approach - manual work of the owner. It is very convenient to overeat the edges of the misfortune of the chief (without the use of a hammer), just holding it in his hand and portraying Dyatla. Thus, the scale is very well removed. Then the metallic brush is input, it is better with the help of a drill (the brushes for this set, both in form and size). And the final stage will be degreasing by the solvent and processing the rust converter.

In the process of cleaning against rust, at the stage of the chisel, the edges of the hole must be taken inside throughout the circumference, leading them from the outer plane of the panel. Next, it is not necessary to bury these edges (if possible, treat as a personal enemy), in fiberglass putty. If the size of the opening allows, it is convenient to use a finger, a curved strip of metal and any healthy material that allows you to hide the corrosive edges. Finger to admire the soap solution (for aesthetes and manicure connoisseurs).

If the misfortune is small, then there is no need to be so crowded. It is enough to press the spatula with a slight amount of the putty, leveling the surface. And if large, it will be necessary to provide support from inner Panels (after all, you won't smear the putty to the air. You can use a piece of polyethylene, cardboard, plastic I.T.P. (By turning on the Intel), with the possibility of supporting hand from the reverse side, or to submit support to the rag, a piece of foam rubber, adhering to the scotch finally ... (it all depends on the place of misfortune).

If the cavity is closed and inward to get not to be able to succeed, then we encourage support from the cardboard, or the mesh is fine inside (naturally the size of a little more holes) and press the hole from the inside due to the product of the capronic thread, the wires, fishing rods. It may have to be held support to the formation of a putty. What at room temperature, 10 minutes. Puttlewing to the spa sticks perfectly and is one whole, so it is not necessary to be frightened if you cannot apply at a time.

Puttlewing this, serves only for the embezzlement of the hole. And therefore, letting it dry (20-30 minutes), it happens enough, it is necessary to stroke the middle-grain with the skin, until the surface alignment and the little deeper. Protheses of dust with solvent and at the same time degreased, apply over the already ordinary polyester putty, preparing the surface to paint.

Our hands, dry with sight, always leave a fat footprint from sweat and therefore pawing immediately before applying splotels, soil, paint, varnish surface is not recommended.

If necessary (if there is no other opportunity to get to the back side), you can even drill a hole for a spray hose, in a convenient place for access, of course not in the front of the body. But we can make the place of work from the inside, you need iron. Good luck to you my dear. It's not so terrible ... And the sealing option is simple and cheap, for not lazy.

For the last, a few words about sandwiches ... It is not necessary before applying a putty during the repair of closed cavities, to blew the last foam, allegedly to support the apparent putty. All cavities in the car are ventilated, blowing out air when the car moves and prevent this process to be fraught with the body. So make unfair sellers, trying to overtake the car. I'm glad if I could be helpful.

Repair rusty body do it yourself

How to get rid of rust on the car body is a question that the most owners of used cars are worried. There are not many options, go to the maintenance station, or do a problem on your own. Many people do not know how to fight rust on the car body, so often they just smear paint, but this method does not save for a long time, but the rust is not fatal, so we consider ways to get rid of it.

Methods of getting riddled from rust

Of course, the most proper and fundamental solution in the fight against corrosion will be the replacement of the whole part entirely, however:

• It happens that this detail is not to get, or its value exceeds the reasonable limits, and I always want to save;
• Therefore, we will now understand how to eliminate rust on the body of the car with your own hands;
• There are several ways, and all of them are quite laborious;
• Modern cars have body from galvanizing, at least most;
• It does not give corrosion to develop, however, with deep scratches, elevations and chips, the protective zinc layer is damaged;
• How do you make sure that the body of your car is galvanized?
• It is enough to explore the passport details of your car;
• Or very gently scraping with a small part of the body paint, not forgetting to paint it;
• For a car, the body from stainless steel does not produce, most likely the case in the cost of production, so the problem of rust remains relevant;
• It is necessary to respect security measures, use glasses and rubber gloves, when carrying out bodywork to avoid entering the body of chemicals.

Rust not through

If the body is struck by rust in several places, it is necessary before starting work to clean these places with the help of a car shampoo, then:

• After drying the case, all problem places It is necessary to handle the skin with a large grain, or use a metal brush;
• It is not recommended to use the grinder, because the enrolls remove the metal layer;
• To perform such a procedure, only discs with plastic soles are suitable;
• Abrasive circle planted on a drill, pass the problem areas.

Body has small holes

If corrosion is deep, and even small holes arose, then act in the following way:

• With the help of a tapered brush, (more rigid it is recommended) The drill is made on the rust with a car body.

ATTENTION: The use of abrasive circles and grinders are not allowed - you simply wait for the metal, after such a stripping it will quickly rotate.

• After stripping, it is possible to confidently appreciate how deeply penetrated the corrosion of the stripped place is blown by air from the compressor, then you need to put the spotlight or a flashlight behind the details;
• If the detail of the body is fixed, then you need to try to stick the light source behind the back;
• In places where holes appeared, glowing points will be visible, with external lighting;

Instructions, how to stop the corrosion of the car body, as follows:

• The easiest way is to sew holes by the usual tin solder;
• To do this, you need a hammer soldering iron, soldering acid (rosin is not suitable here), solder the POS-61 brand, a construction hairdryer can be useful to warm the repair place when the soldering iron is not enough;
• Check the rust converter, without it can not do.

Attention: Before working with a new soldering iron, you should have a sting (its working surface).

Hammer solder

• Before starting work, a repair place having through corrosion should be cleaned of rust residues;
• Because it will not be for a rusty surface of the solder;
• The most important thing is not to be lazy when it is too lazy, then come back to the beginning, where it is recommended to purchase a new detail;
• To remove the residues of rye you will need a pointed feet, or a chop canvase debris, or a knife having a sharp blade and an abrasive skin;
• A rough skin, (R60-80 grain) pass the center of rust (if not passed the brush), so the surface layer is removed;
• Then should be chicken from a metal rust that has already been hosted;
• To make places have become clearly visible, you need to apply a rust converter with a brush and wait a couple of minutes;
• Rust will darken and become well noticeable on pure metal
  at this stage, you will use pointed items to choose rotten metal;
• The process is the most vigorous and time consuming;
• It is necessary to constantly apply the brush converter of rust these places;
• In this way, you wash off rust, which has already been signed, and see where you should attach additional efforts;
• After the place is cleaned, you can proceed to it;

ATTENTION: When the diameter of through holes exceeds 2-3 millimeters, it is no longer possible to fill them with a solder, such a method is suitable when end-to-end corrosion is formed by the shallow mesh.

• Apply a soldering acid to the surface until it dried up, you need to drive a tin solder with a warm soldering iron, where there are already holes from corrosion
• To better adhere to the tin solder, constantly cheat evaporating acid
• When the thick of the thick and power of the hammer soldering iron is not enough to warm the tin, then use the industrial hairdryer or the second soldering iron

Tip: The soldering should be performed in the open air either a ventilated room, (or with a room having a forced hood), as evaporated acid, is very harmful to respiratory tract, and it's not pleasant smell.

• Repair of corrosion damage to the body does not tolerate hacktare, the price of negligent work-campus again and very quickly rusts;
• After completing the work again, check the light, whether there are still through holes;
• After the repair place is irradiated, and the corrosion is registered, it is necessary to clean the surfaces from the acid and the converter that could remain;
• As a rule, washed with water, or a mixture of gasoline with alcohol;
• In order to increase the service life renovated body detail, it is important to protect it properly from contact with the atmosphere;
• On the irradiated place of this body part, with the help of a kraskoraspylitel, apply acid soil, then, on top of it acrylic soil, only after that it is possible to sharpen the surface;

Important: On top of the acid soil, the putty can not be put it, so acrylic soil is placed.

• If suddenly, when grinding the putty, you will have wipers to metal - there is nothing terrible, simply blew up with acid soil and smear acrylic outbred places;
• Completing the restoration of the rusty body of the car, you should certainly protect the opposite direction of that repair place;
• Mandatory condition! Otherwise, all the work done will go to the Nammark;
• There are many ways to protect against corrosion, the main thing is to block the access of moisture and air to the protected place;
• The first option is to primar the opposite side with acid and acrylic soil;
• The second option is a layer of good sealant, mastic or pour Movil;
• The choice of option will depend on the convenience of accessing the surface being processed;
• If you don't cut the sprayer, try to apply soil with a brush, after which it is covered with Movil, for reliability or similar to the agent;
• Now it is clear to you how to restore the body of the car from rust with small holes;

Application of poplats

When a hole was already formed in the body, putty or soldering here not to do ...

• The easiest way here will be the manufacture and installation of the patchwork;
• Of course, this method is suitable for holes with a diameter of no more than 5-7 percents, when the hole is more, it is definitely necessary to replace the body element, or welding;
• How to get rid of rust on the bodies of cars, if there are holes already appeared?;
• First, the place of damage should be pretty well, then clean it from rust, above the method described;
• After that, the patch is cut with dimensions a little large than the hole, from the latter metal, the canning can is suitable;

Patch from thin tin

• Now you need the same hammer soldering iron, it will be necessary to post the tin surface from the outside of the hole and the edges of the finished patch;
• How the flux is used by soldering acid, or its analogue;
• In the end, it will be necessary to turn the patch with a solid seam, then the patch with a hammer must be sieved;
• The protruding edges are cleaned with coarse sandpaper;
• After that, the defective place is covered with putty, primer and paint;
• Body repair after rust can be performed using welding;

• The patch is welded with carbon dioxide welding to the body, however, for this you will need a welding machine (or a welder with the device), plus the skills of the welder;
• Further processing as with the previous patch, stripping primer, putty, grinding putty and painting;
• Do not forget about the processing of the reverse side.

We wish you success in body work!

Forget about fines from cameras! Absolutely legal novelty - a nanofill that hides your numbers from IR cameras (which are standing in all cities). Read more about this by reference.

• Absolutely legally (Article 12.2.4).
• Hides from photo-video phixation.
• Installed independently in 2 minutes.
• Not visible to the human eye, does not deterue because of the weather.
• 2 years warranty,

How to save the body from pass-cutting rust

The car body is the most expensive part of it. But the modern auto industry offers the body of cars of this quality that with the "first swabs" of rotting can be encountered for the first two years of operation.

One of the most simple ways Solve the problem, or rather, to slow down its development - contact a specialized car service. There will be an expensive cycle of eliminating through rust, ranging from welding and ending with paint and varnish coating.

Methods of attaching holes

Is it possible to repair the body with their own hands, the rust that "ate" to the hole? A variety of tools and materials offered in auto shops allows you to perform several ways to get rid of the coded rust of the body. They will cost cheaper professional repair and take relatively little time.

Cross-cutting corrosion of the body is eliminated by only one way - a complete replacement of the affected part. But this method is appropriate only in cases where the dimensions of the affected area are greater than 10 cm in diameter. Experienced masters of body repair believe that with the right approach and use of special materials, the holes of up to 8-10 cm are repaired.

To fulfill such work, you will not need special expensive tools, but the minimum work skills will not prevent their hands. Each caring car owner is interested in how to close the car corrosion, without resorting to the replacement of body parts.

There are several ways to solve this problem, namely:

• Welding is a local approach to the fight against through rust, which implies the presence of special welding equipment and experience with it;
• Patch - or "solder" - soldering a suitable piece of metal with a soldering iron and tin solder;
• Mesh - extension of the missing part fragment using a special grid. Works in a bundle with fiberglass and epoxy resin.
• Fiberglass - it is necessary to have a special glass stained putty and special material To create a multi-layer rigid surface.
• Putty - this method is effective only when using a backing side of the part and long-fiber automotive putty.
• Rivest - Outdated method, a special tool is required (riveter), or a hammer and rivets.

Materials for troubleshooting

Grid

A special aluminum peptular mesh is used as the main material, or a similar non-professional mesh is selected with a fine cross section. It is possible in our time to do the usual household plastic, metal or tissue grid.

Prepared several suitable pieces. Stretching one of them from the inside of the part and giving the necessary form of the missing part, the grid is attached using painting tape. Epoxy resin is applied to the mesh layer on the layer.

Each layer must dry well. So you need to repeat and with the next piece of the grid. And so close as long as the rigid surface is turned out.

Fiberglass

From this material you can make not only a fragment, but the item is completely. The sequence of actions is the same as with a grid (rust hole on the car body), but using fiberglass. In fact, the framework of the missing element is created.

Stages of work

Delete body corrosion can only be compliance with a certain sequence of actions in this process. Despite the diversity of the methods of repairing through corrosion with their own hands, the car enthusiast should know what to do with through corrosion of the body at the beginning of work. The complexity of the work itself will depend on the overall body of the machine.

Preparatory stage

To begin with, it is necessary to clean the surface, indoor corrosion So that there would be a pure piece of metal without traces of corrosion. If it fails to do it carefully, the damaged fragment is cut.

In each embodiment of through corrosion, all stripped places are coated with acid or epoxy soil.

Welding

From a suitable piece of metal (for body repair, the cross-cutting corrosion will need a metal thickness of 0.8 mm) is made by 2-3 mm latch more through hole. If there is an opportunity, the watch is applied on the back side of the body part, and with welding is cooled by dots by contour from the front side.

Neither in one may not be prepared with a solid seam, so as not to be led and did not delay the metal.

Welding points are cleaned with a repair area. It turns out a swelling, which is then leveled by automotive putty.

Soldering

The principle of operation is the same as during welding, but instead of metal 0.8 is used tin (for example, cut out from under tin can). Latca is cut slightly more than the repair place. With the help of a powerful soldering iron and the tin solder, the wave is soldered by a solid seam.

The protruding walled plot on the car can be dried a little hammer, but it will complicate further work with putty, so it is necessary to observe accuracy and accuracy.

Putty

For such a repair, only a special automotive fiberglass putty is used. Starting from a large (starting) and ending with a small (finishing) fraction. For this, it will be necessary to need a substrate (for example, a piece of abrasive skirt).

Each layer is carefully dried from 30 minutes to several hours depending on the thickness and temperature of the air. The refrigerant putty is overwhelmed by abrasive, smoothing the borders of the resulting halo.

The result is a flat surface for applying soil and paintwork.

The thickness of the automotive putty layer should not exceed 2 mm. Thicker layers will lead to cracking material.

Finishing work

Whatever the method of repairing end-cutting corrosion of the body was carried out, cosmetic painting works will necessarily need to complete. This includes a multi-layer leveling of the repair surface with several types of automotive putty.

Each layer is dried and overwhelmed by abrasives. After that, the surface is grounded with epoxy soil, then aligning. After that, paintwork is applied.

Painting a car or its details requires special skills, so it is best to entrust it to professionals.

Through corrosion is a critical defect. Not only the appearance and reliability of the car depends on the body, but also the safety of its owner. Therefore, it is advisable to regularly inspect the body and perform prophylactic anti-corrosion processing.

How to close a hole in the bodie of the car? Sometimes before staining vehicle On his body, small "bugs" are found, under which the through hole is hidden. Consider how to make a patch on the body yourself. A quick way to mask the hole in the body without overhaul! You can repair the hole on your body yourself if its size is not more than the matchbox.

To eliminate this problem, you can use 2 methods.

The hole can be masked by a spheolder containing fiberglass additives. This method is simple and rapid, but not everyone can be called successful.

Therefore, it is better to choose more complicated, but effective method Car body repair.

The method of eliminating serious damage on the car body

It lies in the installation of a patch cut from fine metal, for example canning cans. Initially, a piece of metal of the required size is cut, for full overlap of the hole. Then a powerful soldering iron, the patch is soldered to the body using the rust acid converter as a flux.

When performing this procedure, it is necessary to take into account the following nuances:

Before attacking a patch, its edges must be reached by the soldering iron. You also need to lose the surface on which the attack is made. The patch must be soldered with a solid seam so that there are no empty gaps.

You need to make sure that the latch did not swear above the hole. If it happened, you must neatly drown the metal, with the help of a hammer. If the failure is that most often happens, the patch must be removed with a putty, the layer of which should be a thickness of no more than 3 mm. For this you need to perform

How to close a hole in the car body - the following actions:

1. Find the sandpaper with the size of the abrasive 120. On the eye you need to determine the surface area, which should be covered, adding 2-3 millimeters with each side of the margins.

3. After final preparation of space for spittle, it is necessary with the help of a small cloth with a moistened "White-alcohol", carefully treat sandy surfaces, clearing them from dust and dirt, at the same time degreasing.

4. Next, you can begin to perform the most responsible step, consisting in the pre-primer of the patchwork. This work should be performed immediately how the metal will be processed with alcohol, because after 2-3 hours, the corrosion of this part of the body will begin.

5. First, the first primer layer (acid or phosphate) is applied. This two-component primer is better breed in a glass jar or plastic dishes. Another option is to use acid soil selling in aerosol cans.

6. Phosphate soil must be applied on a piping thin layer. The soil begins to dry quickly, and can give herds. After fifteen minutes, you can begin to apply another thin layer. The procedure must be performed at a temperature of 20 degrees.

7. After some time (from 1 to 15 minutes), the last layer of acrylic two-component soil is applied. You need a few minutes to dry the patchwork, then you can begin to paint the body, so that it glisters, as if the car just left the car dealership. To speed up this process, you can use infrared warming.

How to close a hole in the body of cars we told, quite simple!

The restoration of integrity I. external view The car using welding is often economically inexpedient, and sometimes impossible or unreliable. Then apply ways to repair the bodies without welding. Bearing elements in this way restored not recommended, especially since.

Rubbling ways of repair

Almost all work on the body without the use of welding refer to the discharge of non-professional. They are not the result of any developments in this area, based on the use of the properties of certain materials and substances, do not have a clear technology, verified and regulated by the relevant institutions, organizations, regulations and gta stations. This is the fetus of folk wisdom and the seven of domestic craftsmen, initiated by the specific conditions of our life. For example, in Europe, no one will come to mind trying to repair a damaged body part or bugged car - They are simply changed to new ones. These methods are oriented, first of all, to eliminate end-to-end damage to the facial surfaces and the bottom of the car.

General requirements, the rules are as follows. If necessary, cut or expand the damaged place is used by the grinder. The repaired area is cleaned of paint, rust, dirt. Treated with anticorrosive or zinc, degrease. After seeling the hole at the point of repair, the surface of the desired configuration is formed, if necessary, use a painting auto-suck. Then prepare the body to paint.

Use putty with fiberglass. It happens the following types:

• with fine fiberglass;
• with medium;
• with large.

For sealing through damage, a composition with large fibers is used. The method is suitable for small holes or when significant damage is arranged in the area of \u200b\u200bconstructive "pockets" that protect large masses of putty from sprinkling (for example, the front of the hood over the radiator grille). To fix the composition during work, you can use lining that are installed on the reverse side of damage. Shp clashing is the most unreliable way. Used, mainly in extreme cases for urgent repairs and when there are no other alternatives.

Before starting the work, the cleaned metal of the body is soaked. When mixing spacing with a hardener, bubbles should be avoided. The composition is missing first inside, and then lay on top. When damage to significant sizes, work is carried out in several stages. They give the opportunity to dry by one layer, then superimpose the following. Drying occurs in a natural way.

Using the aluminum mesh allows you to repair more significant damage. It is applied to the hole and fix the scotch. At the end of the work, Scotch is cleaned.

Fiberglass and glue

With more serious damage, fiberglass and adhesive composition are used, which is prepared from epoxy or polyester resin. Fiberglass use for reinforcing the marks. This method is more reliable than the previous one also requires pre-priming.

From the fiberglass, several linings are cut on the shape of the hole. The size of the first provides overlap of damage to the bracket by 2 cm. Subsequent pieces of fiberglass more than previous ones, the latter completely closes the prepared bare metal of the repaired area.

The linings are impregnated with glue and set, or applied to the damaged surface with the applied glue in ascending order of the sizes. So that the fabric during work has not saved, with a significant hole in size, the linings are installed. At the end of the work, the resin give time to dry and grab. The method is suitable for small damage.

Soldering

Used to eliminate the damage of large sizes. The metal sheet is tightly pressed to the body, the connection with which is produced by the solder. To ensure the strength of the soldering use flux. This method is quite easy to implement and even a newcomer; For reliability - something mean between welding and gluing. Solder and flux are selected on the basis of alloys of the metal connected. Perform a soldering electric soldering iron of high power.

Basic Disadvantages:

• about high price (due to big price solder);
• the compound is not solid enough (welding is much more reliable).

Patch from metal should completely close the hole. Before the start of work, the soldering place on the pad and the body is listened to (processed by soldering with a flux by the soldering iron). The larger the area of \u200b\u200bthe meadow and the soldering, the more reliable the connection. If the soldering pad strongly performs, it is aligned on the surface of the car's details with a hammer. The resulting dent close the putty.

Rivets

Riveting compounds are used in the production of body - this is a fairly reliable way of repair. Allows you to repair large areas of damage, change one-piece details (wings, aprons, for example). Fastening locations should be desirable to be at an invisible place. This method when repairing floors is better than welding, which in this case is quite unreliable.

The damaged area is cut out, and a new piece of metal or a fragment of the part is put on its place. Rivets should be steel - they are stronger and will not create conditions for electrochemical corrosion, in contrast to aluminum. Diameter 5 mm, for loaded places (in spars) - 6 mm. When replacing parts and their fragments, rivets put, focusing on the point of factory welding. Before installing the rivet color. A special device will be required - a riveter.

other methods

The bottom can be repaired using galvanized sheets and bolts. The damaged area is cut out. Two pieces of galvanized are cut out - outdoor and internal. The floor is labeled with bitumen mastics on both sides. Isolation should dry. Distribution sheets before installation are also treated with mastic. The lower fragment is installed, it is fixed by it with self-draws, the protruding parts of which are cut into the cabin. Apply an inner sheet of metal. The design is fastened with bolts (suitable M5 x 15). The fixation is performed in series around the perimeter to avoid the wounding of sheets.

To repair the large dents of the threshold requiring it to replace, you can apply the following. Several holes drill in the threshold, insert the tool into them, which are straightened by the rumped plot. The holes are eliminated by one of the above method and together with the residual dent prepare for painting.

Operation of the car in real road conditions Provokes the development of corrosion foci on the body. Especially this is relevant for cars domestic production and inexpensive cars. Metal starts rust, the paint swells, through holes are formed. Meanwhile, body repair associated with welding works is quite expensive. Therefore, repairing old car In terms of car service, it is economically inappropriate. Close up small holes can be independently at home. The volume of financial investments will be minimal. The repair under consideration can be divided into several stages.

Stage of surface preparation

The start of work is to high-quality surface preparation. At the same time, the rust rust and old paint are roughly purified by a metal brush, after which the area of \u200b\u200bdamage is estimated. It is worth noting that the metal never violates strictly locally. There is always a certain amount of thinned metal, which also need to be deleted around the existing hole. The boundaries of this zone are determined by strong presses. If the metal crusts and begged under the press by pressing, it must be deleted. It is possible to cut the sections of the thinned metal using the "Bulgarian" with the cutting disk.
After the metal is frankly, the edges of the processed zone are cleaned and aligned with emery paper or the same "grinder", but already with a grinding disk. Metal around the edges of the hole should be clean and brilliant. In cases where completely clean the edges of the holes from rust fails (small cavities remain), the metal is treated with an acid converter rust. For this, the composition is applied to the corrosion areas, they give time to leak the reaction (15 to 30 minutes) after that the converter is washed away with a large amount of water, the treated area is wipe and dried.
Further work must be made immediately after the initial processing. The delay in several days in most cases leads to the emergence of new corrosion foci, to process which will have to re-on.

Direct repair stage

Close the existing hole can different wayswhose choice depends on the level of load on the repaired body element, hole sizes and availability required tools and materials.

Repair by disposition of hole

The simplest performed is the method of lubing a hole with epoxy resin or fiberglass putty. Such a repair method is perfect for small holes on poor parts of the body, not too much affected by road factors. Before processing the edge of the hole, they wipe the sandpaper, creating minor scratches (risk), and degrease in gasoline, alcohol or acetone. After that, the hole is roughly embarked in the selected composition, if possible, filling the inner cavity is better if the hole is not fully filled. The filler level should remain a couple of millimeters below the main surface level.
After the fiberglass putty dries, the remaining hole is filled with a universal putty or putty for final finishes. After drying it, the surface grinding is produced, comparing the level of the main surface with the level of repair material. At the same time, grinding is made in shallow sandpaper, using a wooden grinding bar. The result of grinding should be so that the person, spending his hand at the place of repair, did not feel the bugness.
In aesthetic purposes, the place of repair can be sealed with a decorative picture or primer and tinker. However, completely hide the place of intervention at home will not be possible. To do this, it is necessary to completely repaint the body element or resort to a complex subcrace procedure for a damaged "stot".

Repair by climbing metal hole

This repair method is somewhat more complex and requiring a certain toolkit. However, in a similar way, you can repair holes, it is not possible to smell that fiberglass due to their large sizes.
To perform work, the hole is measured. After that, the patch is cut out of a separate piece of metal, 1 to 2 centimeters overlapping the hole and flowing to the strong metal area, the patch is adjusted in shape, align the edges and purify them from sharp burrs. After that, around the edges of the patch drill holes, the distance between which should be about one centimeter.
Before installing the patchwork, the repaired area is treated with anti-corrosion compositions and sealant. You can also process the lower part of the patch. The processed insert is pressed to the installation site, fixed. After that, fasten with the help of metal screws through in advance the drilled holes. The fixation fortress is sufficient for elements that do not undergo significant loads, and the sealant treatment prevents moisture penetration through the gap.
After the patch is fixed, the protruding heads of the screws are almost fully rated by the Bulgarian. However, the residual thickness of the cap should not be below 0, 4 - 0.5 mm. Otherwise, the patch simply flies from the mounts. The patch itself and the adjacent plot deepen with the help of a hammer, after which the repair plot is putty and tinted.

Repair by brewing hole

This method is the most correct of all listed. At the same time, the patch is fixed not with self-draws, but welding. You can do it by points through the drilled holes. In this case, the mount is obtained more durable and inconspicuous. After the welding work is completed, the patch also blend and put off.
For welding work on the car it is better to use welding - semi-automatic. The work of the arc inverter is also possible, but the welding seam is obtained more coarse, requiring significant subsequent processing. In addition, the thin car metal just roasted under the influence of the electrode.

End of work

Before the shtailing, it is necessary to apply a layer of anti-corrosion soil or reversible mastic on a fixed composite. The putty is applied only after it is complete drying and processing sandpaper with risk creation. Universal putty or several types of specialized putty can be used for shtlock. After drying the applied compositions, the plot is grinding to achieve the perfect coincidence of the main and repair surface.
Before the tint section degreases and apply another layer of anti-corrosion primer. After drying it, a tint is made in several layers. Paints of the Metallic type must also be covered with transparent varnish. It is done until the moment of complete drying of the paint, after 15 - 20 minutes after applying its last layer.
To make the repair plot less noticeable, paint is applied without painting tape, avoiding the appearance of a clear boundary of the painted area. In this case, the transition is obtained more smooth. It is only necessary to stick to those sites, paints to which are undesirable (glass, door handles, headlights, chrome elements).

The choice of paint is a huge topic, to reveal that in the format of one of the sections of this article is not possible. However, there are several of the most pressing councils for independently conducting this event.
1. The cost of selecting and creating paint, exactly the corresponding color of the car, is quite high. In various shops, it can vary from 3 to 5 - 6 thousand rubles per kilogram. However, when repairing old cars, they are not necessarily as accuracy of the same paint. In most cases, it is enough to remove the hatch (the only painted part, the removal of which takes no more than a minute) of the gas tank and come to the store. Sellers without problems will select paint with special color sheets. This paint will have minimal differences from the car's native paint, not noticeable without a close inspection.
2. To select paint, you should not take plastic painted elements in the store. Due to the characteristics of the material, the paint on them can be quite significantly different from such on the metal parts of the body.
3. It is better to use the paint designed for the spray gun

The first manifestations of the cross-cutting corrosion of the body in the cars of the domestic auto industry appear in the second year of operation. In this case, it is not necessary to contact the car repair shop, since the muffle of the hole in the body of cars without welding is quite simple. The craftsmen came up with several ways to quickly latch small holes, such as arches or holes in the wing. However, methods without welding are unacceptable for repairing power elements.

Before embelling through holes from their edges, you need a grinder to remove the rusted metal. In the area around the opening, paint, dirt, corrosion traces are removed. Then it is treated with anti-corrosion composition and degrease. To close the hole in the body, one of the following methods is selected. To give the renovated place of the desired form, a car putty is used.

Body repair putty

This method is used when it is necessary to urgently close a small hole without welding or there are no other auto repair options. However, it should be understood that this is a temporary measure, as the putty will quickly crumble. To repaired damage use a special putty with small, medium, large fiberglass. When preparing it is necessary to monitor the absence of air bubbles. To create a uniform layer from the reverse side of the hole, the lining is installed.

A primer is applied to the prepared place of damage. After its drying, a putty is applied with large fibers. Depending on the size of the hole, several layers are applied with a complete drying of each. The total thickness should not exceed 2 mm, otherwise the patch will be taken to crack. The latter layer is applied with a putty with small fibers. The renovated surface of the car is treated with fine-grained emery paper.

Fiberglass and grid

For repairing more extensive damage, a peptular grid of aluminum is used. A piece is cut out of it a bit size of a little more hole and is attached by painting tape. Next embedding holes in the car body without welding is made in the following sequence:

• a thin layer of fiberglass putty is applied, without affecting the scotch;
• after drying, the scotch is cleaned;
• subsequent layers of putty are applied after drying the previous one;
• the surface of the car is treated with sandpaper or grinding machine to a smooth state;
• to enhance the grid on the reverse side of the body several layers of putty are applied.

Long-term patches on the car are made from fiberglass and epoxy resin. It cut out of it several linings, the first of which should close the hole with a reserve of 2 cm. The size of each next piece is made more than the previous one. The last pad must close the entire metal-cleaned process during the preparation process.

Sliced \u200b\u200bpieces are impregnated with resin and superimposed on a hole in a sequence of increasing dimensions. If you need to close the holes of a large size from the reverse side of the body use linings so that the fabric does not savage. After laying all the layers of fiberglass, it is waiting for the complete solidification of the resin. The time required for this is indicated in the instructions.

Soldering body car

This method is used for sealing small and large holes without welding. It will take flux to work that protects the metal from fast oxidation. With this task, the soldering acid sold in stores of radiosters will successfully cope. To achieve the required temperature, you will need a soldering iron from 1 kW or its type with a heating solder lamp, but it is better to use the gas burner. Solder is selected refractory, as it is possible to close the hole in the car with it, it is possible more securely.

The fine holes are simply filled with the solder, starting from the edges gradually by moving to the center. A large hole in the body is closed with a patch cut from tin from tin can. It provides:

• strong connection, almost like;
• much greater than that of putty, service life, but less than that of welding;
• the possibility of sealing holes of significant sizes;
• easy of execution, repair is available even to beginners.

The work is performed in the following sequence:

1. Cut patch with a reserve in size of the hole. The larger the area of \u200b\u200bits fit to the body, the most reliable connection.
2. The soldered edges of the patchwork and the place of damage are cleaned with sandpaper to shine.
3. Using flux and solder, cleaned surfaces.
4. Wrongs to pay for the repaired section of the car, it is heated to the melting point of the solder. At the same time, it is necessary to monitor the continuity of the seam so that there are no missed areas.
5. After cooling the flux residues are removed, the place of the soldering is washed with hot water with soda.

Taking into account!

The disadvantage of this method is the swelling of the patch due to heating. If the scan of the ruler confirms this, the bubble is removed with light hammer blows.

The resulting depot is aligned with putty:

1. On the surface of the patch, plus several millimeters from each edge, the risks of the 120th emery paper are applied. This is necessary for a reliable clutch of putty with metal.
2. The stripped surface is cleaned of dust and degreases with solvent.
3. So that the metal does not have time to be covered with rust, the primer is applied no later than an hour after preparation.
4. The first 2 layers are applied with phosphate or acid primer with an interval of 15 minutes.
5. After waiting a quarter of an hour, 2-3 layers of acrylic soil with a periodicity of 5 minutes are superimposed.
6. For complete drying, it takes 3 to 4 hours. The drying process can be accelerated using an infrared heater.

Rivets

In this way, not only large holes in the body of the car are close to the car, but also the details (wings, aprons) without welding change. In terms of reliability, it is not inferior to welding. Rivets are recommended to be installed in a small place. Since there is no spray of molten metal when welding, it is often used to repair the floor in the cabin car.

The riveter required for work can be bought in the store (cost approximately 500 rubles). Technology is simple:

1. A patch is cut into so that it is superimposed by 2 cm on the edges of the opening.
2. Having attached to the body, she is given the desired form.
3. The locations of the holes for rivets are scheduled.
4. After drilling the groove with a rivet diameter with a rivet diameter (4 - 6 mm), preferably the edges of the holes to divide so that it fits more to the surface of the car body.
5. With again, putting the pay, the center of the first hole is rolled and drilled.
6. After its ripping and alignment of the ravings, the rest of the holes are lighted and drilled at the place.
7. To ensure a tight fit of the patch to the body of the car rivets are fixed from the center to the edges.
8. So that the moisture does not get inside, the location of the connection around the perimeter and rivets is labeled with a sealant.

Finishing stage

Regardless of which way, the car repair was repaired, they all end with putty. However, it absorbs moisture, which leads to rapid destruction. Therefore, it must be covered with anti-corrosion or epoxy primer. Completed body repair without welding painting. For this, paintopult or aerosol cans are used, having previously closed the adjacent surface of the auto with a polyethylene film. It is not worth using the brush, as the drums are possible.

The proposed methods will help repair cars without welding with single damage. However, if corrosion amazed a significant area easier and more reliable will contact the car repair shop for. Most often it happens with the floor, so it is recommended to regularly check it from the bottom of the car on observation pit or lift.