Timing belt - what is it? Why change the timing belt? Replacing the timing belt do it yourself - a step to an independent service of the car with what the timing belt changes

One of the central issues of car service today is the timely replacement of all replaceable materials and components. For the highest quality operation, it is important to monitor the status of the belts. In particular, we are talking about the timing belt and the generator belt. If the generator is more or less clear, because the belt itself can be studied and explore visually, then when changing the timing belt is not clear at all. Manufacturers give different recommendations, and while the car is under warranty, there are no problems. But in the future, the manufacturer's tips will only work with the installation of original equipment.

Replacing the timing belt is a very important process that can save you from significant problems. In some cars of Japanese origin, the gas distribution mechanism system is driven by a chain. If you have just such an engine, you are lucky - this chain will have to be changed more than once every 200-250 thousand kilometers. If there is at the disposal a car with a belt, you will have to regularly include the replacement of this node into calculations of regular planned maintenance.

The frequency of replacing the timing belt in the case of the use of factory materials

Manufacturers give very foggy recommendations about the frequency of replacing the timing belt by car. Many exhibit two replacement options. The first option is the usual mode of operation of the machine. In this case, the manufacturer allows for replacing the belt and rollers once every 100 thousand kilometers. Repeat that these are individual data that can be viewed in the instruction manual.

Also, most auto manufacturers allow the use of the machine in a tense mode. In this case, the timing belt is worth changing once every 60,000 kilometers. The problem is that there is no definition of such intense operating conditions, therefore it is very difficult to determine them. If you take into account the difficult conditions of the trip in Russia, the belt on the factory recommendations is changing as follows:

• when passing each large, after 60,000 mileage kilometers;
• after four years of operation of the car, if the mileage of 60 thousand kilometers did not come;
• in case of detection of breaks or cracks on the belt when removing the protective case of the mechanism;
• with a noticeable reference of the belt tension or other changes in its physical condition;
• after detecting the unusual sound engine from the zone of the timing belt;
• due to the immediate belt break - in this case, together with the replacement, a complex of other engine repair measures is performed.

Below we will talk about what unpleasant features are fraught with a rupture of the belt of the gas distribution mechanism. Factory recommendations can only be observed in the case of using official components. If you are not sure as the acquired spare parts, you will have to proceed from other features and characteristics when performing it.

Together with the timing belt, rollers are changing, which serve to rotate the necessary systems and provide minimal resistance to the toothed belt. It is important not to forget about the rollers, since the replacement of one belt alone can cause serious problems directly with the fasteners of this mechanism. In this case, you will have to perform more serious repairs after climbing the rollers.

Replacing the timing belt when using analog spare parts for maintenance

After removing the car with the guarantee, only a few motorists remain on service from official dealers, most moves to cheaper workfolders with original or analog spare parts. Even when using factory parts, car repair on informal service will be much cheaper. The analog spare parts will further reduce maintenance and make it democratic.

Acquisition of the timing belt is a non-original type - a risky step, because you do not know how much such a device will last. Given the moderate value of this material for service, we recommend buying a factory option. If the analog belt has already been used in the design of your car, its service life should be determined by such features:

• belt manufacturer, level of its location in the range of the automotive store;
• the cost of the acquired maintenance material, which often determines the quality;
• the visual state of the belt, which is worth evaluating after every 10-15 thousand runs;
• the presence of free and stretched places on the belt, cracks and other indicators of the instant failure;
• the rough surface of the belt also indicates its rapid break, the structure of the rubber is started.

There are analog belts equipped with all the necessary qualities for successful operation for a long period of time. Nevertheless, many materials are called to serve only 15-20 thousand kilometers. We do not recommend choosing the cheapest belts for servicing your car, because it can lead to unpleasant consequences.

It is also not worth buying a timing belt of dubious origin, no matter how much money it costs. You can get recommendations on analog equipment from an independent specialist in your brand of machines. He will call a number of manufacturers, whose equipment can be trusted. It is better to leave your purchases within this series of brands.

What will happen if you do not change the timing belt and rollers?

Question about the consequences undime replacement The timing belt and other important details of the engine design is quite complicated. It is definitely not possible to answer it, because each car has its own structure of the power unit. Some models have protection against valve bending, others allow the actual output of the car output when the belt break. The main consequences of the belt break depend on the revolutions and may be as follows:

• just the need to install a new belt and rollers to continue the operation of the car;
• acquisition of additional elements of the MRM system, which failed due to a sharp belt break;
• bending some valves or the entire system of inlet and exhaust valves of the engine;
• with too high revolutions it is possible to knock out valves and deformation of the engine case;
• crimination and deformation piston group In fact, it is impossible for modern cars, but also extremely rarely happening.

On the modern machines It is not always possible to understand that the timing belt was the timing machine. Often during the trip simply stalls the power unit, it is not possible to start it. We recommend with such a situation immediately get out of the car, raise the hood and look at the integrity of the belt. If this item cannot be selected through the casing at all, you will have to call the wizard or transport a car using a tow or tow truck.

If you want to independently perform the process of repair and maintenance of the machine, we recommend to see the next video and understand the difficulty of replacing the timing belt with your own hands:

Let's sum up

Timing belt is an important part of Your car, without which the normal operation of the gas distribution system is not possible. Incidentally, the car will never go without a belt and does not even start. Therefore, it is important to monitor the quality of this mechanism and constantly change the belt when necessary. Much cheaper and easier to regularly serve a car than to cope with possible consequences Belt break.

If the belt broke, the trouble happened to force aggregate, it is better to call the tow truck and to offer a car to a hundred. Extra movements on a towing car will not clearly be useful. All experts recommend using factory belts to ensure normal operation, but sometimes the analog options can be quite a long period. Tell us what rules for replacing the timing belt guide you.

Problems with the timing belt usually arise without warning. No creak notifies that the replacement time has come. If your car traveled normally, and then suddenly the engine stalls with a deaf sound and will not start, most likely, the case in the timing belt. Engine synchronization should be perfect, otherwise valves and pistons may face, which will turn into expensive engine repair. To find out how to remove and replacing the timing belt, start from step 1.

Steps

Part 1

Before removing the old belt, you need to buy a new one. If you decide to perform maintenance, then you need to decide on the new belt before removing the old one. If the belt is damaged or slipped, then you should remove the old belt before buying a new one to compare them and purchase a suitable timing belt for your car.

• In most vehicle Rubber timing belts are used, whereas previously steel chains of gas distribution mechanism were used. They cost a few dollars and are available in any parts of the spare parts. Depending on the engine, the replacement of belts should be performed every 145,000 - 190,000 mileage kilometers.

1. Required information about your car. You will need the name of the brand, model and year of release of the model of the vehicle, as well as the type and size of the engine. For some models, various modifications are possible even within one model year, so vIN number (Vehicle identification number) can also be useful. New belt Can be purchased from a regional dealer or in the spare parts store.

   Also do not forget to buy gaskets and special glue necessary for re-assembly. Your spare parts supplier must report everything you need. Belt sets are also available, including spare gaskets and other materials necessary when replacing the belt.

   Remove the accessories that include the enhanced steering pump, the generator and the air conditioner compressor to access the timing belt cover. Do not remove fittings under pressure from the air conditioning compressor, practical all of them can be unscrewed and move aside without blending system pressure.

   Remove the distributor cover (if installed). To remove the cover, you may need to open the locks and unscrew the fastening screws.

   • Some modern cars with electronic system Ignitions are not equipped with a distributor. Instead, the crankshaft position sensor is installed distribution Vala.. It is very important to determine the upper dead point (NTT) on the first cylinder. Use the engine repair manual, because NTT differ depending on the model.

2. Alignment of installation labels. Using a spanner or end key for crankshaft bolts, turn the engine until the setting label of the crankshaft will not match 0 ° on the synchronization scale.

   • Check that the distributor rotor coincides with the pointer on the distributor housing, reporting the readiness of the rotor to the ignition of the number one cylinder. If not, do another complete motor turn.
   • Do not do this with an interference engine if you are not sure about the integrity of the belt. If you have not lost the valves with a torn motor engine, you will definitely make it, turning the crankshaft with a fixed camshaft.

3. Set the need to remove the vibration pullee pulley to remove the timing belt cover. Often, the cover overlaps the end of the crankshaft, and the pulley does not allow to remove the lid. Note, in the event of the shaft removal during the back assembly, an additional seal will be required.

   Unscrew the bolts or screws that hold the timing belt cover. Remove the cover from the engine. On some engines, the lid consists of two elements. Remove all components or drive belts auxiliary aggregatesMinding the removal of the timing belt cover. Such components and belts depend on the model of the vehicle, so we recommend using the maintenance manual.

   Check the accuracy of the combination of the installation labels of the crankshaft and the camshaft. Many engines have a dotted line on pulleys and / or asterisks, which must be aligned according to the corresponding marks on the block, cylinder head or auxiliary shaft. On some engines, the dotted line of the camshaft sprocket is aligned along the first pair connector line Bearing-camshaft.

   • This is very important when replacing a torn timber belt. Consider the correct adjustment process in the service manual for your vehicle and eliminate all the shortcomings before performing the installation of a new timing belt. On some engines, such tags can also be indicated on the sticker of the timing belt cover.

4. Inspect the zone around the belt for the presence of oil leakage traces. Inspect the areas near the distribution and crankshaft seals, as well as the valve lid and the crankcase pallet. Check the cooling fluid leaks from the water pump and the bypass hose. All available leaks must be eliminated before installing a new belt.

Part 3.

Part 4.

• The timing belts belong to the wear details. Usually in quality planned service They need to be changed every 96,000 mileage kilometers. They can break out that it will cause expensive damage to the interference engines due to the collision of the valves and the pistons due to the movement of the rotation. Timely replacement belt is the best way Avoid costly repairs.
• The timing belt is designed to synchronize the operation of the valves and pistons. The process is similar to synchronization in aviation machine guns of the time of the First World War, when the lack of consistency in the work will lead to the tool the aircraft screw.
• The newcomer is recommended to purchase an expensive factory manual from the manufacturer for a specific model of vehicle and the engine in which the belt will change. Such guides are written for professionals for mechanics, suggests a certain extent of competence, contain very detailed information with the values \u200b\u200bfor the belt tensioner, the torque of the bolts, the location of the locksters, etc.
• For some vehicles, a special tool may be required to get to the tensioning bolts of the tensioner, which are hidden by the engine mounting bolts, or to attenuate the spring-loaded tensioner of the timing belt. Most engines use spring-loaded tensioning device, to work with conventional end and wrench, but for some internal hex key is needed.
• Always follow the instructions for your brand and car model, especially if you are unfamiliar with the mechanism device. Despite its cost, the factory guide with interest will pay off at the first repair.

Some beginner drivers do not know such a thing: timing belt - what it is for what it is needed. Therefore, it is necessary to carry out a small introductory course to understand how important an element in the engine it is. Start standing with the way it looks where it is located, as well as study it internal organization. Well, finish better than a small guide to replacing the belt and the accompanying elements. But first things first.

Appearance and composition of timing belt

But it is worth thinking: the timing belt is what it is, what advantages is he able to give? Please note that it is flexible. This is one of his advantages. - Small belt width, the outer part is smooth, from the inside there are teeth. But it is unlikely that someone thought about what she gives such strength. After all, its resource on most cars is about 60 thousand kilometers, and this is about 2 years of operation in normal mode.

The outer part is the basis. She is smooth, capable of providing reliable protection From any liquid - toosol, water, oil. Inner is a teeth, their profile can be three types. Simple curvilinear or modified, as well as trapezoidal. Teeth provide reliable grip with crankshaft pulleys and camshafts. But the most important thing is inside the belt - there are fiberglass threads. The naviving of these threads are made on the helix, which allows to provide excellent elasticity and ability to withstand the load during tension.

Purpose belt timing

Now, when we more or less figured out what the device is, it is possible to move further - to determine for what purpose it is necessary. Current cars have a valve system, which is driven by a shaft on which cams are located. This mechanism is called "gas distribution". The fact is that it opens and closes the combustion chamber in the intake and release cycles. Therefore, during the combustion of the fuel and air mixture, the maximum tightness of the combustion chamber is ensured.

In this way, greater power can be achieved. Indeed, if you compare with engines that do not have valves, you can see not only an increase in power, but also the efficiency. The timing belt "Ford" is also made of elastic materials. Previously, only chains were used for the drive, but they have exactly the same resource, and noise make an order of magnitude more. Here are only valves in the engine can be different, and you need to manage all. And so that they work in tact with pistons. Some engines use two belts. True, it is on very powerful and expensive cars.

How important is the label?

To understand whether it is necessary to accurately set the shafts on the labels, simply imagine how the engine will operate if it is unbalanced. Presented? Yes, not a very beautiful situation. Suppose, in the first cylinder there should be fuel injection tact. But due to the wrong installation of the belt, the inlet valve is completely closed, and the graduation is open. Consequently, all fuel simply does not fall into the combustion chamber, and also does not ignite in a timely manner.

Then the worker occurs, at which the mixture is flammable. She had to light up, but her no, she stopped at the entrance and separated by the valve. If the timing belt marks were exhibited correctly, there would be no problems. And now she scars the spark, but she illuminates a dark and empty combustion chamber. During the tact of release, an inlet valve opens, a certain amount of fuel is served. Provided that it will not splash back to the ramp or carburetor. At the next clock not most of burns, and everything else leaves exhaust system. With such a work, the engine will never start, so it is extremely important to accurately set the labels.

How to set tags?

So it was close to the most important issue to which all the answers need to know. What tags are and where to look for them? Knowing the design of one car, easy, acting by analogy, to replace the belt at any other. If you know how to replace the Renault timing belt, then for you it will not be a problem to establish a new one on the nine or even the "ten" 16-valve. The main thing is to know where to look for the labels you need.

First, there are marks on the flywheel and the engine block. Secondly, on the distribution shaft, and if more precisely, the label is on the drive gear.

Now it is worth considering the most popular models of engines. If 8-valve, then in them one camshaft. If 16-valve is then two, and in addition to the tensioning roller there is another one. It is not needed for adjustments, with its help the timing belt "Chevrolet" is held in a normal position. There are no significant differences in the procedure for installing pulleys by tags not, you only need to put them against each other.

Replacing belt

On the different cars Replacement with some features. For example, on some models "Renault", in particular, in our country, Logan is needed to post the engine, as it is required to remove his pillow. Without this, it is impossible to remove the belt and put a new one. The owners of these cars know what the timing belt is how to cope with him, so they can spend the replacement very quickly, without resorting to the services of car services.

But in most cases it is enough to raise right side Machines, then remove the wheel. Remove the protective casing of plastic, which covers the drive. Also dismantle the drive belt of additional attachments - power steering, generator, air conditioner, depending on the configuration of the car. Then remove the pulley of the drive of additional mechanisms. The pulley that leads to the movement of the timing belt, it is not necessary to shoot, it is enough to free it. Now it remains only to loosen the fastening of the tensioner and pull the belt to remove it from the pulleys.

What happens if there is a break?

Many wonder what is dangerous to break the timing belt. In this case, you need to refer to experienced car mechanics who know the device of the piston group specifically your engine model. If you take an example domestic cars, then B. model row Engines 2108 There are many differences. On some broken belt occurs painlessly, on the other you can even damage

Pay attention to whether there are cycles on the upper surfaces of the pistons. If they are present, then you will not get to expensive repairs in the event of a break. But if they are not, it will inevitably occur damage to the valve system. Are you planning to use the car for a long time? Contact current, which will make notches on the pistons. It really can secure the engine. And the only thing that will be needed in the future is to carry a spare strap with it to quickly replace. Of course, after the cliff you will learn what the timing belt is and how to change it in the field. But bitter experience is a lesson for you, and very useful. Surely, every motorist faced a similar occupation away from home.

Replacing roller and pump

And now it is necessary to talk about the fact that most cars use the gas distribution mechanism actuator, which has already become classical. The belt also rotates the pulley of the pump, which is necessary for the cooling system for normal operation. Looking at the pump and belt resource, you can see that the first it is not much more. And the cost of this unit is not so big, therefore it is worth replacing the pump simultaneously with the timing belt. Of course, the rollers should always be changed, since they have the same resource as the belt.

True, for this it will be necessary to completely drain the liquid from the engine cooling system, allowing it to cool for some time if the motor was recently shuffled. In all models there are practically two drain holes - in the block and at the bottom of the radiator. Again, pay attention to the fact that the antifreeze resource is not very large. His additives evaporate, and properties change after 60 thousand mileage kilometers. Is it better to replace and antifreeze? Consequently, having broken, the timing belt is what it is, you need to determine which other items to replace when installing a new one.

What can I continue to replace?

Depending on which car, you can change various drives. In particular, very often car owners together with the timing of the TRG change the belts of the generator, and the steering hydraulic reserves. This turns out to be quite reasonable, since they do not always exceed the service life, which is provided for at the GD drive. And the external influences on these belts turns out to be much more, as they are not covered with protective covers in most cases.

And if it is important for the gas distribution mechanism so that the timing belt marks are correctly installed, then for the remaining drives this condition is irrelevant. Installation is made arbitrarily. All dust and drops of water immediately settle on the surface of the drive belts additional equipment. Here, before the appearance of cracks for a short time. Of course, if suddenly belt belt Generator or air conditioner compressor, the engine will not suffer, it will not need to be repaired. Only it becomes less comfortable or just starts to discharge the battery.

conclusions

So you figured out, why change the timing belt. Now you can safely begin this simple case, having familiarized yourself with the features of the design of the mechanism on your car. The main thing is to correctly set the labels and make quality repairs. For example, with a strong wear of the pump, the belt begins to slide, its edge rubs on the roller, gradually decreases the width of the surface. This may cause a cliff, which will easily result in the repair of the cylinder head.

For example, we took a fairly simple Motor Renault Logan Renault K7m. Why this is this? First, it is eight-flaped, and secondly, the replacement of the belt on this motor will give a rather objective picture, which can be safely projected to any eight-flaped motor. The 16-valve aggregates will not be considered, God forbid on this engine to do something decent.

And what do we need? ...

Our task is to perform work as close to the "garage" conditions, without the use of a rare tool or equipment, which does not happen from average motorists. Help to perform work, comment on its execution and warning from possible errors I asked the specialist of the company "Sport Garage of the USSR" Nikita Pisarenkov. But before you go to the service, we collect everything you need for the upcoming work.

Of course, we need a new timing belt. Car owners, the camshafts whose chains are twisted, now dismissively grin: "Fu, belt! Then change it, then the defective buy. Whether it's a chain! " Laugh, laugh, gentlemen. The disputes of the format could begin in ancient Greece, if there were cars then. Castled in the sheets of very ancient Greeks would spray saliva in the face of opponents and led dozens of arguments in favor of the defendant looks.

But now it is no longer so important that the drive of the gas distribution mechanism is better. If there is a belt - it must be changed (although I note that it is sometimes necessary to change the chain, and sometimes even more often than I would like). What threatens the empty attitude towards the timing belt? At best, he just breaks, and the car will stall.

In the worst, the broken belt reverends cases in the head of the block: the phases of gas distribution will be bought, and the valves will suddenly remain open at the very moment when the piston rises to the upper dead point. And then what? That's right, the valves will wake up and lose the opportunity to move in their guides, providing gas exchange in the motor.

Long ago, when the kings were the roads and the dollar was even worth not 30 rubles, but only 6, there were motors with rollers in pistons. Valves at the "meeting" with them remained inside the grooves and unharmed. But here is not enough: the groove poorly influenced the effectiveness of burning gasoline mixture, and modern engines No "insurance" you will not see. Their motors of the last decades, the masters are rightly called "inhibitors."

From the point of view of philology, the word dubiously, but in fact everything is and there is - "in the whit" in the people called the very meeting of the pistons and valves, leading to the recent bending. Motor repair in this case can cost expensive or even - very expensive. In general, you already understood, I want or not, but you need to change the belt. Different manufacturers Indicate a little different deadlines for its operation, but on average, this spare part serves 50-70 thousand kilometers.

So that the belt performs its function - passed the rotation from the crankshaft of the camshaft properly, it must be properly stretched. The tension provides a special roller, which is quite expected called tension. According to the design, this is an ordinary video, but with a displaced center of rotation, so that it can be moved relative to the axis of rotation. Tension roller It should be changed simultaneously with the belt. It is not necessary to trust it with imaginary durability, over time, the lubricant in it ages, it begins to warm more and more, but leads it to disgrace to his jam.

For a belt, this is like death, and then everything is on the above plan: a break - the bend of the valves. Therefore, it is better not to skip and the roller change each time the belt is replaced, it is not so expensive, but you can be calm for the drive of the timing. By the way, the roller is not necessary to buy the original, here this concept is very relative. Somewhere from the factory, the Koyo, SKF rollers or some other products are very decent manufacturers. The dealer will gladly sell a set of the same company, but with his cheating.

But recently, dealers gradually reduce appetites. For example, the SKF and belt roller set for our experimental Logan in the usual store cost 1,790 rubles, but we bought u official dealer For 1 901 ruble. Overpayment, as you can see, small, but on the soul calmer. Well, in any case, it should be calmer.

Many motors for removing the timing belt have to remove service belts: generator, gur, air conditioning. Sometimes a belt is one on all units, and sometimes some belts touch optionally (but it is rare). Therefore, if you, for example, you know that your belt of the portion of the rods of another gymnasists under Nicolae II, that is, it makes sense to replace it. But if you are going to work in the garage, located near the auto parts store, you should not buy anything in advance. Maybe the belt is still good, but to acquire, for example, the cooling pump. This is also possible. However, enough conversations, it's time to drive the car into the garage and do business.

The main thing is not to fuss

In order to remove the belt, you will have to do several operations. Theoretically, they are elementary, but in practice it all depends on how much downtime will meet hard-to-reach bolts and sublegate buckets. Of course, to work by the Chinese key, which when the first pressing from 13 becomes 14, will be inconvenient. Persons throwing Validol under the tongue can be found already, so we will assume that the tool is, and it is not made of plasticine.

First, we remove the front right wheel. How to do this, I will not tell me (if someone is going to independently change the timing belt, but does not know how to remove the wheel, my advice: buy red laboft and go from the garage away). So, the wheel lies beside. Now you have to disassemble what is usually hidden behind it - the subsidence, locker, protection ... All that prevents getting to the crankshaft pullee. And it should be not just visible, but it can be clear: this pulley will need to be removed. Self-timers or bolts can be a lot, better not to lose them.

1 / 2

2 / 2

So, the crankshaft was reached. Now you need to lay the road to the camshaft pulley.

On some engines it is enough just to remove the casing (as a rule, it consists of two parts) timing belt. But it is very likely that they will have to remove the engine support. How, for example, on our Logan. In itself it is easy - you need to unscrew five bolts. But before this it is necessary to subdominate the engine to remove the load from the support.

1 / 2

2 / 2

There are two options here. The first: before letting the car from the jack, put any emphasis under it, I put the car on it, I remove the jack, put it under the engine and lifted the latter. Another way is to immediately put a backup under the motor and, removing the jack, omit the motor on it. You can choose any way, but do not forget: the pallet of the crank can be duralum, and therefore fragile. Before resting with something in the pallet, you must definitely put at least a plank.

Before removing the support, it makes sense to pull the oil dipstick. Not all cars, but it is necessary on Logan: it is very close to the support, when it is removed it is easy to break the top of the probe. The speed, as they say, does not affect, but unpleasant. Therefore, the probe is better to get it, and the hole shock with something clean. We did not do this: the experience of Nikita allows not to break the probes of other people's cars.

After the support is removed, it can be examined for integrity. If the rubber part has defects, the support is better to change - it's still seized. Already gathered in the store? Wait! Perhaps you will have to buy something else.

Now it is necessary to remove those belts (or belt), which will prevent you from getting to the timing belt. There are many options: the types of belts subject to dismantling are different, and the methods of their tension and removal. On Logan worth one total belt on the generator, gur and air conditioning. Here we are removing it. Well, finally, the culprit of the celebration is the drive of the timing.

1 / 2

2 / 2

Remove the crankshaft pulley. To do this, it is best to get a closure key with a good extension and friend to help. We take the key in your hands, and the friend is planted behind the wheel. It should include the fifth gear and click on the brake pedal. If a friend sees a car for the first time, he needs to explain that with a stubborn motor vacuum amplifier The brakes do not work, so the brake pedal must be crushed strongly.

While the voluntary assistant in the cabin of your car blues from Natugi, try to unscrew the pulley nut. If this happens not immediately, we ask a friend no longer press the clutch pedal, but to put pressure on the brake (this also happens). In particularly difficult cases, nut is struggling to the last. If it is not collapsed in any way, there is an absolutely wild way that is better not to use, but I will still tell. We rest in the knob in something strong and turn on the starter for a split second. The chances of frightening the fucking nut at the same time increase many times, as well as the chances of grinding something with a broken key something under the hood. But in hopeless situations of what we will not come up with ...

Suppose everything happened. Now remove the timing belt itself. To do this, we will define how we put a new belt: simple, but wrong, or more complex, but faithful from the point of view of science.

The Master's difference was told about the difference in ways: "A simple way looks like this. I put the camshaft mark just up. We draw a marker tag on the belt if they are not preserved, remember which designations at the camshaft. We release the nut of the tensioning roller and remove the belt along with the roller.

On the new timer, the tag marks are marked (they are typical of the belt for Renault, they may not be on other motors - approx. Author). We take a new belt with a roller and put on the belt exactly by tags (remembering what our designation is the designation). We put the tensioning roller and stretch the belt, turning the roller (Specotter) clockwise. Holding in a stretched position, tighten the roller nut.

And now a difficult way, the one is recommended in the repair book. I exhibit the label on the camshaft opposite the icon on the GBC. This is NTC (upper dead dot). We unscrew the plug on the cylinder block, we screw the M10 thread and a long thread of 75 mm. Tighten it instead of a plug, thereby stoporing the crankshaft so that the pistons remain in the upper dead point. We put a new timing belt and pulls it out.

In principle, everything is clear. It is not clear what is the labels and where did they come from?

The task of the timing belt to provide synchronous rotation of the camshaft relative to the crankshaft. At any time, the mutual position of these two shafts should accurately comply with the settlement. If you put the timing belt as it fell, the valves and pistons will not work in right order. The motor is either can not be launched, or at the first start attempt, it is possible to part with the valves. For the sake of justice, we note that the script will not always be the same as when the break. If synchronization is broken quite slightly, then the valves may not fit, but the motor will work in non-optimal mode, the sensors will go crazy ... In general, it is also nice.

1 / 2

2 / 2

In order to determine the mutual location of the shafts, there are special labels on their pulleys and on the block. While the old belt is not removed, you can twist the crankshaft (by screwing his pulley and taking advantage of the key) and find all the necessary labels - both on the camshaft pulley, and below, on the crankshaft. Renault facilitated us the work, drawing the labels right on the belt, then it is simply impossible to be mistaken. Yes, and on other eight-flaped motors, it is hard to miss, the main thing is to find the necessary labels and after removing the belt try not to turn the pulleys.

The new belt is set by tags, now we put the tensioning roller. Next to the mounting hole there are two more deaf holes. They are needed to adjust the tension. After the roller is nailable, it should be wrapped to achieve the desired belt effort. There are two questions: how to twist the roller, if there is no special tool, and what is the right tension at all?

Special tools can be replaced by a large number of remedies. Someone uses the key from the Bulgarian (often fits), someone places two bolts into the holes and, inserting a wrench between them, rotates the video. We used round rows with curved ends.

Now directly about the tension. The method described in the manual is banal and bored: take the belt with two fingers and try to twist it. If it turns out to do it more than 60-70 degrees, then you need to tighten more. That's right, only not everyone will determine the eye of these 60-70 °, especially if there is no experience at all. Therefore, we do it easier: pull the belt as much as possible, then weaken the roller slightly.

In general, the correct stretch is one of the most difficult moments. It is only worth not to reach - and the belt will last long, and maybe even jumps from the tooth to the tooth, the phases will break down and ... you already know: "CTTK" or at best - difficult work. A taped belt will not only work out kilometers laid it, but will pull in the grave, for example, the pump, if it is activated by the same belt.

By the way, about the pump. It, unfortunately, is not eternal, and some manufacturers recommend changing it in times. That is, at 60 thousand mileage, do not touch, by 120 - change, at 180 - do not touch, by 240 - change. In fact, you should not interfere with the car to work. But you need to check the status of the pump. Twister and listen, there is no extraneous sounds when it is rotated, it is easy, it will help to avoid repairs in the future in the future Diagnostic malfunction.

The same applies to service belts. If they are worn, we change them immediately - disassemble the machine once again there is no time or desire.

That's all

Actually, on this work and ends. It remains to collect everything in reverse order. The last step is the most exciting: Run the engine. Only a small whistle of a new service belt is possible, but no squealing, hum or prolonged strong whistle should not be.

On the replacement of the belt, you can sometimes save a decent amount. Of course, this work on eight-cell engines is not expensive expensive, on average from 1,500 to 5,000 rubles (depending on the region and greed of masters). But it is possible to "get" for more serious repairs, if you take care of work casually. It's one thing - to work fun, and the other is frivolous. If there is a chance that somewhere in the middle of the process your inner cofty and tongue will leave you finally, it is better to immediately go to a hundred.

When assembling, again, everything must be done neatly. For example, thoroughly wipe from dust and dirt all the elements of the protective belt cover: dirt that will fall on it will reduce the service life. Well and motor oilFucking on the belt, he is at all the first enemy.

And finally. The belt, who served on our experimental car, 55 thousand, looked just fine, could still ride and ride. But the tensioning roller had noticeable traces of dealing, which speaks of its excessive heating and the upcoming ambulance "death". This once again proves that it is not necessary to save on the video. As, however, on the belt.

For help in preparing the material, we are grateful to the company "Sport Garage of the USSR", personally Ilya Ladchenko and Nikita Pisarenkov.

The belt of the gas distribution mechanism is applied on most cars. Today, you can rarely meet the engine in which the chain drive is used. The advantage of the belt is that it does not require lubricant, it is easier to replace it, the service life is the same as the chain, if not more. But most importantly - car Engine The timing belt works much quieter than the chain fellow.

Motorists try to monitor the status of the timing belt, as the integrity of the engine depends on this. By the way, most of the engines modern cars It does not have in the pistons of removal under the valves. This means only the fact that when the belt is cut, the valves will go to the lower position. Pistons moving by inertia will make a strongest shock on valves. And it will end the break of the belt by repairing the head of the cylinder block, and sometimes replacing.

How often to change the timing belt?

Most manufacturers recommend changing the belt at least than 60,000 mileage kilometers. This is a normal mileage for high-quality belt. Poor-quality specimens can break in a thousand kilometers. If you are not sure about the reliability of the belt or nodes of the gas distribution mechanism, then check the state of the strap every 10-15 thousand mileage kilometers.

For Skoda Octavia, for example, the manufacturer recently recommended the replacement of the belt every 90,000 kilometers. Today, this figure has decreased to 60. Particularly lazy drivers who loving risk continue to change the belt when running under the hundred. But this is not quite reasonable, because the numbers in the recommendations are not just diminished. This was influenced by many years of car engines. In other words, a lot of belts rushed before he turned 90 thousand.

If we talk about the domestic auto industry, then Lada Priora, one of last models AvtoVAZ, needs to replace the belt after 200 thousand kilometers of run! The figure is huge, for some in general, unattainable. And the reason for this is a wider belt, it is two times wider than dozens or nines. On the latter, by the way, the strap is better to change with 45-60 thousand mileage. But if you ride very little, then for your own calm, change it every two years. Rubber dries still, cracks, the structure is destroyed.

What to pay attention to the replacement of the belt

Not only the belt will have to be replaced. The tension roller also requires replacement, and if the engine is 16-ticked, then the support. Rollers are both completely made of metal and plastic with metal. Everyone has pros and cons, someone will argue that Metal Eternal, it is difficult to break. It is difficult, but quite real.

And imagine only what will happen if such a roller commits. The most important thing is to immediately break the belt. That is why it is better to use metal rollers with a plastic insert. If he breaks, he will not break. You still try to change the coolant pump along with the belt. Its resource slightly exceeds the roller and belt resource.

However, you can change the pump with each second timing set. But if they noticed that the edge of the belt begins to eat, then blame the pump bearing, which has a backlash. But the most important thing is to follow the belt tension. This depends on its service life. If the tension is insufficient or excessive, the teeth will be erased, the load on the belt will increase.