Disassembling the front semi-axes UAZ Military bridge. The difference between the "collective farm" and "military" bridges. Carter of the main transfer of the front military bridge UAZ

On UAZ cars of different models and in different time At the factory installed many variants of bridges. Let's try to figure it out ...

UAZ Timken Bridge (civil or collective farm)

This is a split bridge, that is, a bridge consisting of two halves. To the same type can be attributed and (it is gentle or portal). From the factory, civil bridges are installed on cars UAZ of a cargo row (loaf, onboard,), as well as cars passenger row UAZ-3151 (469).

Transmission numbers of military bridges UAZ

The transfer number of military bridges 5.38 (\u003d 2.77 * 1.94 - gear ratios, respectively, the main and on-board gear) is more traveled, but less high-speed than normal bridges.

Characteristics of a military bridge

• Road clearance: 300 mm (with tires I-192 215/90 R15 (31 x 8.5 R15)
• Pitch: 1445 mm
• Track reducer bridges UAZ BARS: 1600 mm
• The weight of the front military bridge UAZ: 140 kg
• The weight of the rear military bridge UAZ: 122 kg

Scheme of reducer (military) UAZ bridge

Rear axle UAZ with onboard transmission:

1 - Cover Case Main Transmission; 2 - Differential bearing; 3,13,49 - adjusting gaskets; 4 - sealing gasket; 5.7 - the bearings of the lead gear; 6,15 - adjusting rings; 8.42 - Cuffs; 9 - flange;
10 - nut; 11 - duster; 12 - Ring; 14 - spacer sleeve;
16 - the leading gear gear; 17 - satellite; 18 - right half; 19 - Carter Boart Peredachi; 20.29 - oil refractors; 21 - half-axis bearing; 22,26,40 - retaining rings; 23 - Carter Carter Sealing Layout; 24 - Capher Capher Capher; 25 - Bearing; 27 - brake shield; 28 - brake drum; 30 - wheel attachment bolt; 31 - pin; 32 - Bearing hub; 33.41 - gaskets; 34 - Keeping washer; 35 - lead flange; 36 - nut bearings hub; 37 - lock washer; 38 - sleeve; 39 - the slave shaft of the Boart Peredachi; 43 - Bearing of the slave shaft; 44 - driven by a gear of the Boart Pedaging; 45 - special nut; 46.50 - plug holes;
47 - the leading gear of the Boart Pedaging; 48 - Right cup of satellite box; 51 - Carter of the main transfer; 52 - Sheet gears of the semi-axis;
53 - gear semis; 54 - Satellite axis; 55 - driven gear gear; 56 - left cup of satellite box; 57 - Left half

Swivel fist of the front bridge UAZ with onboard transmission:

a - signal groove;
I - right swivel fist; II - left swivel fist; Iii - Wheel shutdown coupling (Verification version, see Fig. 180, IV); 1 - seal; 2 - ball support; 3 - swivel hinge; 4 - gasket; 5 - Press Maslenka; 6 - kkvorn; 7 - lining; 8 - the housing of the swivel fist; 9 - Skivorn's sleeve; 10 - Bearing; 11 - the slave shaft of the Boart Peredachi; 12 - hub; 13 - lead flange; 14 - coupling; 15 - Clamp Shark; 16 - Protective Cap; 17 - coupling bolt; 18 - pin; 19 - lock nut;
20.23 - Supported washers; 21 - the leading gear of the Boart Peredachi; 22 - Stop Pins; 24 - Sealing Rubber Ring; 25 - Stubborn washer; 26 - casing of the semi-axis; 27 - turn limit bolt; 28 - focus limiter wheel rotation; 29 - Rotary Fist Lever

Military Bridge Device (Photo)

Video replacement and adjustment of the main pair on the military bridge UAZ

Bridges Spyser UAZ Patriot and Hunter

Spice is not a split, solid bridge.

In the early 1990s, leading bridges like "Spyser" were developed for the Ulyanovsk Automobile Plant.

The lack of connectivity in the transverse plane of the bridge gives the design high rigidity, the unloadedness of the cover of the lid and the crankcase reduces the probability of leaks on the junction, and the placement of the main transmission and differential in a single crankcase provides high accuracy of engagement and more favorable conditions for the bearings.

• Width of the bridges Spice for UAZ Patriot - 1600 mm
• Width of the bridges Spice for UAZ Hunter - 1445 mm

Differential Bridge Spyser

Bridge with onboard gears

or Military Bridge UAZ

P-shaped leading bridges with on-board transmission - installed on cargo-passenger cars UAZ 3151.

Installation of P-shaped driving bridges (Complete front and rear) on cars UAZ 31512 is possible with the simultaneous installation of the drive shafts of the UAZ 3151 car. Installing P-shaped bridges with onboard transmission to the car chain collection requires significant refinement of bridges, bumps, bumps, Car suspension, manufacture of cardan shafts, shorten by 10 mm, and cannot be performed outside the factory (without his recommendations)

fig. one Rear axle with onboard transmission:

1 - Cover Case Main Transmission; 2-bearing of differential; 3,13,49 - adjusting gaskets; 4 - sealing gasket; 5.7 - the bearings of the drive gear; 6.15 - adjusting rings; 8.42 - Cuffs; 9 - flange; 10 - nut; 11 - Messel trap; 12 - Ring; 14 - spacer sleeve; 16 - leading gear gear; 17 - satellite; 18 - right half; 19 - Carter Boart Peredachi; 20,29 - oil refractors; 21 - half-axis bearing; 22,26,40 - retaining rings; 23 - Carter Carter Sealing Layout; 24 - Capher Capher Capher; 25 - Bearing; 27 - brake shield; 28 - brake drum; 30 - wheel attachment bolt; 31 - pin; 32 - Bearing hub; 33.41 - gaskets; 34 - Keeping washer; 35-lead flange; 36 - nut bearings hub; 37 - lock washer; 38 - sleeve; 39 - the slave shaft of the Boart Peredachi; 43 - Bearing of the slave shaft; 44 - driven by a gear of the Boart Pedaging; 45 - special nut; 46.50 - plug holes; 47 - the leading gear of the Boart Pedaging; 48 - Right cup of satellite box; 51 - Carter of the main transfer; 52 - Sheet gears of the semi-axis; 53 - gear semis; 54 - Satellite axis; 55 - driven gear gear; 56 - left cup of satellite box; 57 - Left half

Bridges with onboard transmissions (Fig. 1 and 2) are installed complete (front and rear) on modification of cars of the OAZ-31512 family with simultaneous replacement of the rear cardan shaft.

Maintenance of bridges with onboard transmission differs from the above described lubricant replacement technology in the hinges of the rotary fists of the front axles, check and replace the oil in the boards of onboard gears, as well as adjustments to the position of the lead gear 16 of the main transmission and its bearings 5 \u200b\u200band 7 (see Fig. 1 ).
After adjusting the side gap, it is necessary to check the gear gear of the main transmission on the contact spot, as indicated in the section - Correct and adjust the rear axle nodes- (p. 73).
After running 50,000 km at the next maintenance It is recommended to suspend the bolts of fastening the slave gear 44 onboard gear and the driven gear 55 of the main transmission, as well as the bolts of the removable bearing body of 25 onboard gear.
The position of the gear 16 is regulated by the selection of the adjusting ring 15 of the required thickness. When replacing the gear of the main transmission and a large conical bearing or only the gear of the main gear, measure the mounting height of the large conical bearing 5 under the axial load 2-2.5 kN (200-250 kgf) and, if it is smaller than the size of 32.95 mm on some The value will increase the thickness of the adjustment ring on the same value compared to the one that was installed in the bridge crankcase. When replacing only a large conical bearing 5, so as not to disrupt the position of the gear, measure the mounting height of the old and new bearings and, if the new bearing is a mounting height greater than that of the old one, then reduce the thickness of the adjusting ring 15, and if less, increase by magnitude The differences of the heights of bearings.
Tensioning in bearings 5 \u200b\u200band 7 Adjust the selection of the adjusting ring 6 and the tightening nut 10. If you cannot do this, then change the number of gaskets 13 and again the selection of the ring and tightening the nuts to achieve such a pre-tension of bearings so that the axial movement of the gear is missing, and the gear rotated without great effort. Dynamometer checks performed with a rubber cuff 8. proper adjustment At the time of turning the gear for a hole in the flange, the dynamometer should show 10-20 H (1-2 kgf) for the bearing fittings and 25-35 H (2.5-3.5 kgf) for new ones.

Replace lubricant in swivel fist hinges in the following order:

Fig. 2Protable fist of the front bridge with onboard transmission:

A-signal groove; I - right swivel fist; II - left swivel fist; Iii - Wheel shutdown coupling (Verification version, see Fig. 180, IV); 1 - seal; 2 - ball support; 3 - swivel hinge; 4 - gasket; 5 - Press Maslenka; 6 - kkvorn; 7 - lining; 8 - the housing of the swivel fist; 9 - Skivorn's sleeve; 10 - Bearing; 11 - the slave shaft of the Boart Pedaging; 12 - hub; 13 - lead flange; 14 - coupling; 15 - Clamp Sharick; 16 - Protective Cap; 17 - coupling bolt; 18 - pin; 19 - stop nut; 20,23 - support washers; 21 - the leading gear of the Boart Peredachi; 22 - Stop Pins; 24 - Sealing Rubber Ring; 25 - Stubborn washer; 26 - casing of the semi-axis; 27 - turn limit bolt; 28 - focus limiter wheel rotation; 29 - Rotary Fist Lever

1. Disconnect the flexible hose from the wheel cylinder of the brake mechanism and the tips of the steering rods from the levers, unscrew the fastening bolts by rolling the ballproof sealing rings and slide the clip with sealing rings on the ball support neck (Fig. 2).
2. Unscrew the nuts for fastening the lever fastening or the top pad bolts and remove the lever or lining and adjusting gaskets.
3. Remove the bottom lining bolts, remove the lining with adjusting gaskets.

Fig. 3 Pillarmers Puckle

4. Remove using the puller (see Fig. 3) Skvorni from the key of the swivel fist and remove the case assembly with the ball support hinge.
5. Caution, not spreading the plugs (so as not to jump balls), remove the hinge assembly with bearings and gears from the casing of the swivel fist. Without a special need to remove the hinge from the housing of the swivel fist and should not be disassembly.
6. Remove the spent lubricant from the ball support, hinge and housing, thoroughly rinse kerosene and lay fresh lubricant.
Follow the assembly in the sequence, reverse disassembly, observing the requirements for the adjustment of the kingle. When installing a flexible brake drive hose, do not twist it. After assembly, pump the brake mechanism drive system (see the "Working System" section).

Side transfer disassemble in the following order:

1. After removing the hub with the brake drum (see the section "Removing, disassembling and assembling hubs") Unscrew on the rear brake shield the coupling of the brake driving pipeline (on the front - a tee connecting tubes and a flexible hose) from the wheel cylinder, unscrew the nuts of the fixture Tsazfy and remove the spring washers, an oil refrigerator, an armor, a pad gasket, a spring gasket, a braking mechanism assembly and laying the brake shield.
2. Unscrew the nut 45 (see Fig. 1) Fastening the bearing on the drive shaft of the onboard transmission, remove the mounting bolts of the onboard crankcase cover, remove the cover assembly with the shaft, remove the cover of the lid gasket and eject the shaft from the lid.
Unlike the left side transfer, the shaft 39 and nut 45 of the right transmission have left threads. The left-thread nut is marked with a ring groove, and the shaft is a deaf drilling with a diameter of 3 mm in the end of the spam end.
3. Remove the fastening bolts of the slave gear and remove the gear from the shaft 39.
4. Mark the position of the roller bearing housing 25 on the tilt of the onboard bridge crankcase, unscrew the housing bolts, remove the bearing housing. Without a special need for a roller bearing of the front axle side bridge, do not remove. (Further order disassembly onboard transmission of the front axle, see above in the description of the replacement of lubricant in the hinges of the swivel fists.) Remove from the crankcase of the onboard transmission the retaining ring 22 of the ball bearing 21, semi-axle 18 and oil reproducer 20.
5. Remove the roller bearing retaining ring 26 from the semi-axis, Roller Bearing 25, leading gear 47 and ball bearing.

general information

Front axle

Shrews

Shkvorno knot

Couplings "Elmo", "Stelm", "Rus", etc.

Rear axle

• Design and repair of the rear axle (Timken)

Inter-wheeled blocking

Hubs

Tuning bridges. Refinement of UAZ bridges. Non-standard bridges on UAZ

Other information about bridges

The military bridge differs from the usual presence of onboard gearboxes. Due to the presence of gearboxes, the bridge is raised relative to the axis of the wheels of 4 cm, which increases the clearance of the machine (the distance from the ground to the lower point of the bridge). Therefore, military bridges call "P-shaped" (bridge as a crossbind of the letter, on the right and left of the letter fasten the wheels). The torque is not entirely on the main pair (as in civil bridges), but is distributed between the main pair and gearboxes. Due to this, the main steam is smaller in size (the Carter of the Military Bridge "hangs" 4 cm less than civilian). The main couple has less teeth, and they bigger size - It increases the reliability of military bridges compared with civilian. The transfer number of military bridges is 5.38 (\u003d 2.77 * 1.94 - gear ratios, respectively, the main and on-board gear) - more "travelers", but less "high-speed" than that of ordinary bridges.
Rear cardan shaft under military bridges per 1 cm shorter than Civilian! What is the transfer number of civil bridges?

Until July 1989, the main pair was installed in civil bridges with a gear ratio of 5,125 (41 tooth), now with a gear ratio of 4.625 (37 teeth), i.e., more "speed", but less "powerful". In stores you can find both those and others. Replace the "new" on the "old" major pair will most likely have, when installing very large wheels. Replace the main pairs recommended only complete (in the front and rear axles), otherwise the front axle will have to be included exclusively In the mud, on the snow, on the sand, etc., so as not to deleate the transfer boxes do not spoil the rubber.

How to determine the gear ratio?

The rear breeze bridge from the ordinary military is distinguished by only two details:
stockings - taken from a collecting bridge;
semi-axle - original spare part. What is better - ordinary or gear bridges - and why?

For the first time, this question arose when cars with reducer bridges appeared in the free sale. Disputes "What bridges is better" arise in the conference regularly. Here are all frequently cited arguments.
The advantages of military bridges compared with civilians:
- clearance of 30 cm (against 22 cm in civil bridges); according to the latest measurements, the difference of 8 cm is observed only when used on military bridges of rubber I-192. With the same wheels, the difference is only 6 cm. (Winning on gearboxes - 40 mm. Winning on the size of the dief crankcase - 20 mm Total: 60 mm.)
- MORE "TRAPHER" (torque) - for the carriage of heavy loads, towing, driving on small mud circulation;
- more reliable due to larger sizing the main pair;
- more reliable due to the uniform distribution of the load between the main and onboard gears;
- developed, including for the "accompaniment of the tank column" and (unlike civilian! - see the journal "driving") approved the USSR Ministry of Defense.

The advantages of civil bridges compared to the military:
- less weight (more comfortable ride and (physically) is easier to repair);
- less details - easier and cheaper repair;
- it is possible to install serially produced;
- Possible installation of spring suspension (see also Note);
- at the same speed smaller, the engine is "unlocked" due to a minor gear ratio;
- less noisy (since the onboard transfers of military bridges are spoiled, and they are noisy);
- More affordable and cheap zap. parts;
- gasoline consumption with other things being equal;
- Less lubricant points - easier service and less need oil.

Note for long military Bridges:
- Only a spring suspension (comparison of spring and spring suspension is installed on them);
- improves stability;
- increases the permeability;
- Spare parts are not available.

Guys, I agree with you only 50%. These 8 cm give not such a big advantage. It all depends on the laying between the wheel and the seat! Example. Yesterday we went fishing 2 ozami. One 31514-10 +, another 31514-031 + 8 cm road lumen (military). It was necessary to drive a segment of the road along the virgin about 150 meters. They walked two different ribs purely to satisfy their own curiosity - what is still better - diffs or 8 cm lumen. It turned out that the diff was cooled !!! I pulled it twice from the snow captivity! The road (if you can say so) - the snow is dense, spring. The depth did not merry (not for this we were driving), but already asked! So alas - 8 cm give a little! [Valera]

Differences (except for a smaller landing on civilian) has not yet worried. But I think that warriors are not a fool - since they put such bridges, then when driving on off-road they are better. But for driving on the highway with high speeds should be better simple, because Warves quickly do not go and bridges are adapted precisely for a slow ride ... The difference is noticed in critical situations, for example, two weeks ago, at the entrance to the country, the road consisted of a wet sticking snow - "goat" sat down with all belly, but this with civilian Bridges. I figured that he did not have enough those ... centimeters, ... which make the military above the simple. Last winter on the old "goat" with military bridges, I didn't even think about the road. And there are many such examples - what's here to feel - the cargo of the car, which ... Above - naturally better ...

Civil bridges. Recently went to the forest and had to be liked on such a rut that the car bridges on it simply lay. I drove, leaving behind two grooves from gearboxes. Clinging, apparently, only the edges of the wheels. I think that with military bridges will be significantly easier. At least if you have to change bridges, I change to the military. True, the military has one big minus - the design. Complex mechanics made by Soviet hands - unreliable.

Military bridges ... really designed for difficult conditions, but also the consumption is higher, and no more and more difficult. However, there is a pattern - all Militia UAZ are equipped only with civil bridges (consumption and dynamics are important on asphalt, only I-245 are completed), only military bridges (Rubber are only I-192).
Operation of the UAZ to MO is horror without start and end. As a rule, the transmission of onboard gearboxes begins to flow. There are no more problems, after 100 thousand cars, as a rule, sell to the national economy and ... on it another 10 years ride, it is not particularly worried that there with bridges.

If I got on the bridges, it is unlikely that the lock will help (except to bury up a deeper). You have a sense from them, undoubtedly, but not in these situations. By the way, according to my observations (4 recent years Active hunting in the winter, spring and autumn) UAZ with collective farm bridges As a rule, they lose the opportunity to move precisely because of landing on the bridges. I remember only one case when the locks could really help - Moving along the frozen large puddle UAZ broke the ice and fell by right wheels (did not sit on the bridges). As a result: the left wheels on the ice "soap", and the right-wing, getting up to the solid ground at the bottom of the puddle, are without movement. Well, I still took UAZ with military bridges. In hunting produce rarely someone goes to virgin (almost never). Basically, the people ride on the "roads" - such bits in the forest, or the rolled "roads" in the fields. In such conditions, the main obstacle becomes deep tractor rhesis, especially in lowlands, swamps and streams, or false trees, or stumps, etc., the characteristics of "rowing" with all wheels are not so important, how many ground clearance. In practical conditions, if I have one (or two on board / diagonal) the wheels are sinking, then it will be easier for me to put something under them (branches, blesses, etc.) than to watch the UAZ sitting on the bridges and the bonus all four blocked wheels.

A year ago, I replaced civil bridges for the military, conclusions:
1. There is no tangible difference in noise between military and civil bridges.
2. With a properly adjusted machine, fuel consumption should not increase more than 1-1.5 liters (for military).
3. ON CLOSE MEC. At least half of the owners of the UAZ on collective farm bridges costs GP 5.125. At the military - 5.38. Total we get twisted less than 5%! At 3000 about. This is only 150 vol. Funny! But at the same time, as if laid according to state, I-192 in diameter more than 245 or 357 by 3%. That is, in the "regular" option, the difference in the twist is less than 2%! (although the "regular" options and not so often meet in the city (I-192)).

About Patency. Well-sitting UAZ on both gearboxes of collective farm bridges to pull out to others in the same UAZ is practically not possible (even if sitting on Goodrich - passed repeatedly). At military bridges, the Carter is made in the form of a skis, so the car can move on them, leaving the furrow from the crankcase to 3 cm.

Well, in conclusion - military bridges are much more reliable than collective farm. And the design is more thoughtful, and the manufacture of a couple of percent is better. [Radomirych]

When installing blockages in civil bridges and wheels\u003e \u003d 33, it is necessary to change the semi-axes, screws or main pairs. These locks are calculated not on the UAZ, but on the BTR ... In addition, this blocking is not intended for use as an interstole differential and latter functions. To put it mildly, it does not quite well perform that it can lead to the sad consequences in terms of [not] of controllability. Military bridges dramatically improve the position with the hammosis, but there are no locks for them (but lumen more). Nevertheless, the entire progressive jeeper public is gradually moving to the military Bridges, including those some time ago, was an irreconcilable supporter of blocking. [_Sergey_]

I then spent the operation of remecking bridges the other day. Now I have reduced bridges with locks stand. Wheels huge and gearboxes just unloaded the load. Made it out of the military and grinders of stockings and, accordingly, inserting the Military stockings into civilians. [Glory] What is needed to replace "civilian" bridges on the "military"?

1. Plates under the tower of the rear axles.
2. For the foresight of the bridges, the lower cups under the stirrer are the same. But you need to clean carefully from dirt. There is a notch, which in civil bridges is not involved and clogged with mud, and in the military it works.
3. Stepladders gr. And military. Bridges are the same

Report on the replacement of the Mr. Mostov for the military:

First, I want to immediately ask the person who wrote that it will only be necessary to shorten the back Cardan for 10 mm and find the plates under the lap of the rear axle confessing and in this case I will not beat it !!!
Hemorrhoids turned out to be plentifully.

1. the front brake tubes on the military - their original, they go with the tee.
2. plates under the lap on sale are missing as a class. I had to breed square rods.
3. After the installation of the stepladder on the springs it turned out that they were long, because Spring has only seven sheets. From the suitable tube I had to make a 20mm bushings under the nuts, otherwise the thread is missing.
4. Cropped brake hoses completely refuse to unscrew from the tubes, all sorts of fluids did not help. When heating the connection with a gas burner, miraculously confident from the trimming of the hose, which the bullet flew out of the collapse. Lucky !! :-)))
5. Because Bridges were acquired without brakes, i.e. Old cylinders, drums were lying in the bag and even used something, but I had to collect everything from scratch. The drums are flowing, the cylinders of pollaring and anthers on the sealant, the pads are glued from the Volga - again labor costs and bars are extra.
6. All springs were counted and all sleeves were replaced.
7. Yes, and the gear of the speedometer to change - the hands did not reach.
8. In the kit, Dali Traiga is transverse - put it, it is straight, without bending under the division of civilian.

That is what the work has been done.
P / S If it knew that the drain should be done - I would have thought ten times. And now the Pozdnyak. It is necessary to sell gr / bridges, even though denyuzhek returned spent.

Total that I was worth it (July 2002):
4500 rubles Bridges
2000 Basic Spare Parts on Initory
1000 locksmith for the bulkhead of onboard gearboxes
1000 - if not more in the smallest.
Total: 8500 rubles and two weeks of Kama Sutra in the evenings and weekends.
It remains to collect some of what snot.
I rolled a bit, it seems nothing buzzing, but I finally did not make sure that I want to calm my soul - I didn't touch the soul and therefore anxious. The fact that thrust added and the fitted mass was also noticeably immediately! And in the rest let's look further And what are blocking differentials?

In the "original" at the UAZ non-blocked inter-track Differentials in the back and in the front bridges (both in civil, and in the military). Therefore, in turns, as it should be, wheels on one side (internal relative to the center of rotation) are slower than wheels on the other side (external). In the limiting case, if one of the wheels of the bridge does not have any resistance (for example, hung by a jack or spinning in liquid dirt), then another wheel is still. This is the lack of differentials on off-road - if, for example, the car fell into the dirt the right sideNo matter how the dirt did not have the right wheels, the left remains still and the car is worth it. To avoid this, inter-wheeled differentials are made by blocked (rigid or partially). Rigid blocking can be forced (lockers) or automatic (self-locking, cam diops).
Lockers are managed, as a rule, pneumatics. Lockets work simply - it is a cylinder with a fork, which moves such a crown crap, which blocks itself.
The automatic locking of the cam differentiation occurs when it is turned half the differential housing relative to each other (by one turn?), I.e., when slipping one of the wheels. Such a differential is blocked as when turning forward and forth, and automatically unlocked when aligned (up to a certain value?) Wheel rotation rates. Features of managing machine with automatic locks cm. .
Partially blocked - these are high friction diffuses (LSD), have inside a number of discs (by type of clutch), poured special oilwhich helps drives to slow down ... but there is nothing solid there.

And according to the principle of operation ... such self-blocks at least 60% goes on the lagging wheel in any situation. On some modes - up to 70-75 (maximum). But self-block does not care what resistance it overcomes (that is, what is caused by the resistance to the scrolling of the wheels). Moment differences up to 70-30 \u003d 40% of the traction effort it is coated in a state with any combination of resistance (friction in the tire contact spot with a road, braking the working brake or the moment of inertia of the spinning wheel). Therefore, if it lacks this very difference of resistance moments (that is, it exceeds these same 40%) ... Gently press on the brake. First will just grow the moment on standing wheel, Then it will start turning (if the power engine is enough), and then, if the difference becomes less than 60-40 \u003d 20%, the Differ will force both wheels to stop synchronously, as strictly blocked (it is simply "bite" with such a large common time). That is, there is a "one hundred percent blocking" (though, what price ...). And you can simply gazay - the same role will play the moment of inertia of the posted wheel. And the people are still surprised why when moving in a turn on a weak ground, the sharp supply of gas can cause a "sharp change in the behavior of the car" with cam differs (when the self-block is simply clinite). Necessary need with these fitters :)) ...

See the principle of camping differential on the site of the UAZAVTOTHOTECHS

From the letter of Technoservis:

Differentials that below will be discussed only in the so-called. "Civil" bridges. It's connected with constructive features. At the time, we have (technonevis) there are two types of high friction differentials: cam and with cones. They differ on the principle of work. The first works hard enough, sometimes leading to the timeline of the wheels. The work of the second is much softer, with a smooth increase in the moment on the lagging wheel from 0 to 0.65max.
The first differential is allowed to install only in the rear axle, because On the front control bridge is not allowed to block the wheels.
The second differential can be put in the front axle. GRIGORY SERJANTOV What cross-field differentials can be installed on UAZ? How many alterations?

Yesterday I came from Gorky (N. Novgorod) very incomplete information that in nature still there are self-locking diffuses for army bridges !!! The fact is that this summer I asked for my friend's father-in-law (he lives in bitter) to search for information about self-locking direphs on military bridges. And yesterday I was given that he had found a man who had such diffuses on army bridges! In short, I think it is worthwhile in search! All successful hunting !!!

On military bridges blocking there! But this is homemade (although the drawings can be reached ... theoretically - because they may not give, but for money, I think the blocking themselves will be supplied. The principle is the same as from BTR-60. In general, if well, it is very necessary And there is money (I did not ask, but for an order of magnitude more than the BTrovsky ... [Kolka]

Locks in military bridges - automata - bridge with setting 6 - 7 t. R. (Beginning of August 2000), hard pneumatics with control with dashboard 8 - 9 t. R. The automata is also 100% blocking - but turns off at all on turns. Machines for military bridges - the bridge is constantly rigidly blocked. In the turn when overtaking the wheel, the pin is leached and the bridge becomes completely free until the wheel is larenched. Pin back - diagonal away. Old Differ are reworked in the case of a machine. The entire bridge is reworked in the case of Airlock. Local locks from special equipment CCCR. A familiar license. He will put it. [Chif] Reviews on locks in gear bridges

Since until the last moment there were no reviews on the real use of self-locking differentials for gear bridges, me was not found, except for the article in the 4x4 magazine, I decided to spend some time and describe my own feelings from their operation. So, in contrast to the 4x4-based Moscow-made self-blocks described in the journal, for which the producer was clearly not in themselves for $ 600 per piece (after which the desire to contact his products was gone - let him treat his head), I acquired Nizhny Novgorod products that have absolutely The same principle of operation as Moscow, but it is more acceptable (for example, in the OFROD, they can be bought for $ 370). I put self-blocks on both bridges and drove them to test them on the 3rd stage of the partisan trophy. The complexity of the tracks was very high (who are interested, pictures from the track -), and the conclusions from use turned out to be approximately such:

1. Self-blocks do not work at all with severe diagonal hanging. That is, I really did not have a single time when it was visually visible to rotate the same wheel on the bridge with a fixed car. Moreover, the use of 100% blocking most likely helped the car to touch. "Add a Garbage" as described in the example of 4x4 magazine, it was not possible to solve this situation: I went to the borger and the data advice would go deep and for a long time ;-)) It is not clear whether this fact takes into account, but 100% blocking No one promised, the manufacturer promises only 70%, although I would even doubt this figure (by 70% they will work only with a very strong difference in speeds. If you do not allow a strong slip of the wheels, they almost do not work or work quite a bit - that is, no apparently effect).
2. It was noticeably worsened by turning on the maximum twisted steering wheel. The rotation radius has increased twice. Checked on a soft soil in a guy forest ;-)) To pass the passage with minimal radii, it was necessary to reduce the speed. As it turned out, it is a panacea from this glitch: at a low speed radius of the old.
3. Significance has significantly improved (this plus notes the 4x4 magazine). The difference is huge, those places in the rut, in which we sat on the bridges a month ago, now they were easily drunk, and if we sat on the bridges (1-2 times all the time) then in the place of the river, it was very smashed and last time I would not even put into this place, but would drive around the forest.
4. There is no sound of work (perhaps I did not hear, 2 hours after the start, I turned off the Glushak ;-)))). So it is not clear at all, the usual it was Diff or self-locking \u003d)))

In short, the conclusions from here are as follows: We go further on self-blocks, but only if suddenly it does not find out that they quickly scatter. So far, two-day operation in the super heavy mode did not reveal a lack of strength. There is no tangible superiority of self-blocks on ordinary differs and most likely will not be. Therefore, to count on a serious increase in passability by and large naive ;-))) How will there be further experience - I will definitely share it. \u003d)) [Alexander Filatkin ( [Email Protected])]

Self-blocks, for which the manufacturer requested $ 600 is first, with the installation, and secondly, they differ in the way that they are modified precisely for the UAZ. As for the use of you, this is the actual quaphy from Muscovite, having a slightly smaller blockability coefficient with just as high quality (another screw angle). The manufacturer is not a factory, but a fairly small enterprise, and could reduce prices provided a sufficiently large number of sales (from their words).
You can "add a gate", and it is possible not to add - to include simply higher transmission - the difference in the angular speeds of rotation of the semi-axes will increase, respectively, the larger moment is transferred to the frozen wheel. And you can simply "touch" the brake pedal - with properly adjusted brakes, the effect will be the same, although it is hardly actually achievable for the UAZ with drums))
So the "self-blocks" - "self-blocks" mink, and should not immediately generalize. I personally experienced them, and in my jeep it is exactly these. I'm happy yet. Another thing is that I personally prefer the Detroit Locker, which is just working on his head, and than self-blocks LSD, and than any kind of "forced". [Ivan Evdokimov (MONSTR4X4), the author of the article "Military blocked"].

The BTR-60 is no longer produced, but nevertheless, blocking are produced in Arzamas Nizhny Novgorod region, in Kurgan?
! ... The range of search for differential is narrowed to fence in / h. Does the ensigns responsible for the safety of the match, credit cards, travelers or postal transfers are taken, I don't know how to refuse non-human habits from cash.
! Self-locking diffuses (from the BTR-60) are often in the village of the outbound (southern departure from Arzamas) in the Gaz-UAZ store ... Take just a few pieces. How to find a store? We travel from Arzamas (south), moving railway And after 70 meters on the left (opposite the church) there will be a store (the one). Mode of operation: 8-17, Saturday 8-14, Sunday - day off. There is no phone in the store. Host phone (8-247) 9-08-86 (call in the evening, ask Valera). [Misha from Lower]
! There are interclaid blocks from the BTR. Ready for installation on a UAZ car. [Email Protected]. Tell how to establish self-locking differentials from BTR-60 in civil bridges.

Everything is done very simple! Remove the bridge with the car, pre-drained the oil and unscrew the brake hoses. Pull the semi-axes. Then the bridge must be broken. To get to the Dif box, pull out the old diff, you remove the bearings and the gear of the main pair from it (all the gaskets and bolts gather in a bunch - they will be more useful to you). In the new dife you need to drill holes from 10 mm to 12 mm (if they are not angry). After these operations, you can proceed to the assembly - put the gear to the place (the benefit nothing more is required for this), adjust the DIFA bearings (in the book it is described in detail the process of adjusting the bearing box of the differential box) and add everything to the previous place! EVERYTHING!!! The front axle is installed in the same sequence! Good luck in locks !!! [Valera]

I think everyone already guessed that the differentials are much simpler to the rear axle :), so I started with him:
1) falls off the cardan from the bridge;
2) the oil merges (although everything is not allocated :));
3) the brake hoses are unscrewed, and flexible to rule so as not to flow;
4) unscrewed stepladders, but not to the end, so that the bridge still kept a bit;
5) shock absorbers;
6) the wheels are removed;
7) hung over the frame of the UAZ and the stepladders are completely unscrewed - the bridge is removed;
8) unscrewed and removed the semi;
9) Bollar bridge. ATTENTION: GROWING THE GRAPHER OF THE MOST BETTER NOT REST !!! I broke my break, and in stores it does not exist, even in the southern port! Although you can cut out of a dense watman, as I did. By the way, the layers of the semi-axes are also not frequent ... Here you got to DiF and look at the main couple ... It turns out, there are two types (besides the number of teeth) - it happens with holes by 10 mm, and it happens with holes with a thread by 12 mm, so if you have a carving in the main pair - it's worse, since it will have to sweat a little and drill in a new differ hole at 12 mm (and for this you need to have a good metal drill on 12 mm, and it is better to have several pieces and preferably self-folding, if such happens ). I had everything in the back bridge, and in the front I had to drill, so everything rested in the absence of such a drill: (and the hard metal turned out to be ...);
10) Next, you need to suffer with bearings: Remove both (7510), for this you just need a puller !!! Without it, we filmed 40 minutes, with it 13 seconds :), and you need to take it as many times (when adjusting);
11) Next process from the book: Dress in ch. pair, and the bearings are not up to the end, but leave the gap of 3-3.5 mm, collect the bridge along with the gasket, tighten the gearbox bolts, disassemble again and see what you have left from the gap (one and the other bearing) add to This figure 0.1 divide the resulting number in half and here in such a thickness insert the rings before the bearings. Next, everyone just collects to the end!
This, only briefly, was repent of Valera, but they wrote about the front axle: "You do all the same" ... The first difficulty: turn away the brake hoses, for some reason the front is more discontinuous and quickly break down (not on my UAZ ). The second difficulty is my inener-mindedness with UAZ :)) I tried to unscrew the semi-axes as early, but here I realized that not everything is so simple and this is the front axle ... In general, I immediately broke the bridge (preformed it Having removed :) and unscrewing steering traction in two places) and then everything did everything with the rear, only with the semi-axes ...
As a result, they all put in place, pump the brakes, pour oil into bridges and in dirt !!! :-)) Question to Valera and to the rest: As far as I was wrong, when I didn't pull anything in the front bridge (half-axis), and rightly regulated bearings? .. [Kolka]

Finished the installation of self-locking dife into the rear axle. Until I forgot:

1. The stepladders left immediately. For turning out the prieved brake pipes It is necessary to warm them up and the soldering lamp or something else and cool several times, after which they turn into hot. I breaking one tube, I framed it again, which turned out not so difficult.
2. Gaskets between halves of the crankcase bridge are sold without problems, so you can tear old.
3. Treat holes at 12 in the differential is better than a special multi-hour tool - zenker, then reserved the drill to 12.1 - 12.2, if the holes do not coincide. If you immediately drill a drill, because of its beating it turns out an uneven approach, and the hole goes aside. Because I did not find the Zenker, I did an approach (for a depth of about 2 mm) with a 12-time depth, but I sharpened the ends like the drill. It is impossible to be deeper. Runs cut sideways and the hole again moves to the side. Next, he reserved the usual drill on 12. As a result, it turned out holes, exactly coinciding with carvings in the slave gear (a couple poured to the file to the side). You can achieve a more accurate matching holes by turning the gear on the dife.
4. Old dife fastening bolts to the gear short, because Diff thicker. After long searches, the GAZ-53 Cardana bolts were selected with the letter X. They are longer and with the head to 17. The unscanned part of the thread just corresponds to the dif thickness, so that wrapping the bolts to the end remains somewhere 1 mm threads to the driven gear. The bolts need to shorten the grinder, ton if they hang on the other side of the gear, they will touch the rear bearing of the lead gear behind the support nest. Additionally, planted the bolts on the threaded glue.
5. Pay attention to the disconnecting bearings of the differential. Almost always on the rollers there are sinks - bearing under replacement. Because of them, the bridge runs up at speed. Under the Council of Conduct, the outer ring of the bearing knocked out the welding of iron and knocking the outside by half a sequin. It turned out very easily. Cooking neatly tweln, so as not to overlay the cast-iron socket.
6. It is better to buy a good bearings for 300-500 rubles. Than to buy disposable Zhigulavsky for 100-12. I hardly had it enough.
7. Under the halves of the bridge it is better to make special stands. Very convenient for multiple assembly - disassembly. The adjustment of the bearing tightness itself did not cause problems. Clearance - the required thickness of the adjustment pads can be measured by conventional suns.
8. The nuts of the grinding halves of the bridge can be replaced with the nuts of the fastening axis. These are broken at times, but those higher.
9. The fracture force of the differential is 5 kg on the flange. The effort of the drive gear is 1.5 kg. Total - 6.5 kg. Much decreased after filling the oil and a small mileage. Carter is heated a little.
10. In S.B. Diff is better pouring special oil for high friction diffing with an additive LS. Type Castrol LS90 or BP Limslip 90. Because Such in Yaroslavl did not find that the simple BP 80W90 was flooded, but if I find a replacement.
11. Tighten the hub bearings more often. If this is not done, the inner rings of bearings begin to rotate on the pin and the pin is abolished.

In front, t. 1) It connects only when screwing the strsts - the resource of the differential, semi-axes increases - (p. (Pokatushki in St. Petersburg heard the history of UAZ with self-locking differentials in both bridges and the replacement of the semi-axes every ~ 400- 500 km. The latter just cut ...);
2) The load is larger (on the medium-loaded machine), therefore, it has more grip with the soil.

I have only at the front bridge.: 1 The resource for these diff peffs are very limited 2 such a diff as the front axle is needed only on off-road 3 does not interfere with the usual movement along the normal road 4 front wheels are controlled and in combination with the lock resulting. [Pyhat]

I have on Landrover 110 in both Arb Loker bridges with forced pneumatic inclusion from email. compressor. So: they are turned on by each one with their button, but without turning on the rear first, do not turn on the front. This is a regular scheme. The idea of \u200b\u200bimperialists about the installation of locks is first in the rear, and then in front, in my opinion, is that they include them in heavy conditionsAnd it seems to them that the semi-axis rear (especially reinforced) compared to the front will be in the mud and on the slopes to live longer. How the semi-axes are born in Uaz - I do not know, and in the def-e, the rear is much mighty front ... more, if there are ahead of self-locking diffuses, there may be difficulties in controlling on the road and with different diameter of the wheels - everything happens in the dirt.

From the letter of the company "Tehnoservis" At the time, we have two types of high friction differentials: cam and with cones. They differ on the principle of work. The first works hard enough, sometimes leading to the timeline of the wheels. The work of the second is much softer, with a smooth increase in the moment on the lagging wheel from 0 to 0.65max. The first differential is allowed to install only in the rear axle, because On the front control bridge is not allowed to block the wheels. The second differential can be put in the front axle. [Sent GRIGORY SERJANTOV] How does the car be behaved with self-locking diph on the road?

I did not feel the difference in the dry or wet asphalt.
In winter, the car becomes completely different (than with simple) more sharp what, and strives to go for a large radius on turns.
More resistant to skins. Rather, no, perhaps, better managed in driving.
All the above mentioned my personal observations on a specific machine with 2 locks. Please tell me if it is possible to put military bridges from the UAZ without significant alterations?

Can! We will have to leave the native tower of the steering column and traction from it to the right front wheel. If the shock absorbers are native (lever), then there will be no problems, and if I put the telescopic - you need to look at the place.
About GAZ-69 See also in the section "Lyrics" and on this site. And what is the coupling "Elmo", "Stelm", etc.? Do they need them?

Opinions against:

The disadvantage is bad defense against dirt, sand, etc. - when a mustache has to switch the passage. Can slip when moving back.
- It is necessary to consider that in order for them to work normally, you need to drive about 10 meters. And they can never be. The practice has shown that in this case it is enough to twist the front Cardan, (but it is for those who hunt a dive, and you can, first turn on the back, a little bit, the smallest of the clutch, and then the third or fourth and also Let's let go of a little, it should be like a hand without much effort twisted Cardan, after that you can storm the shitty boldly!
- It is better for a long time and tediously to turn the key native hub couplings than to sort out the Elmo in the mud. [Pyat]
- I threw two sets of these couplings. I drove on the UAZ only in the dirt, and as Ladoga showed, these clutches do not stand me mechanically. That year, the fastening bolts cut off in a conventional swamp. This year in the mud, when the wheels slipped the whole from the inside. If you exploit the UAZ in the city and rarely, on weekends or holidays in the dirt, then in my best regular. Twice a week, the key to twist is not scary. But if the dirt is constantly, then the asphalt and dirt is something that is not sore, then the duralum switches are more convenient, but still unreliable.
- If the machine stacked and dropped with rear wheels, then if you include "Elma", and then immediately the front axle, then when the elf bucks, it will be turned on and the slots are cut off the slots on the "Elme" and Kirdyk, AU Tractor ! As an option, you can hang the wheel and twist with your hands, whatever they stick. Then the same on the other hand. The truth is inconvenient and not always possible ... But it will come to the extreme If the machine is generally paralyzed, then connect "elf" sometimes is generally problematic, since for their reliable inclusion, it is still necessary to ride a bit (2-3 m.) Not including the front axle. This is especially true in winter and in the presence of a thick lubricant in "Elm", which is not recommended. But no matter how cool, there is no alternative, as you have to turn on / off very often and "regular" clutch clutches, no matter how reliable, are inconvenient. All of the above does not apply to sports cars, where most Life they spend in poop .. [crushing]

Opinions for:

I've been standing since birth, there were no problems. And there are similar, but imported. They are looking for a better ... Put, in general. [Victor]
- Reliability couplings. With the 33 wheels of questions did not arise. After winter operation (did not turn off), zakisli to death. Disassembled, cleaned, watered with liquid lubricant and drove into a laugh. Everything worked fine. But Declip coupling broke down. About stone. [Olegm]
- I have passed the 19000km. And I'm not tormented with them. They gworat what they pop up - I did not come across it. Turn on normally, if you do not swing in them litol. And we can make them germinate with their own hands. I, it's better so than to make an oil charm every time. But if you do not get out of the dirt, then naturally old are easier and more reliable.

It is necessary to lubricate correctly:
To fue in Litol with a clutch "on the most inconsistent" under the bottom, and there is no need, because there is no (well, there is no everything) of rubbing elements, I went through two types of couplings (outwardly different - the same inside) - so here there are no rubbing surfaces.
My advice is what:
Do not score, but it will not be turned on.
Lubricate a thin layer plastic lubricantto the level of "fatty" details.
Do not lubricate with lithol - Litol is destroyed by humidity and becomes glue / mask / abrasive - anything, but not only with lubrication.
You can lubricate phiole or even graphite lubricant.
If you have money buy waterproof lubrication.

To protect against salt from above, you can apply cutting plastic cans from under cocoa with caps on the screw. Our products are ideal for diameter, as well as from Germany and Poland. All sorts of there are unfortunately we are not suitable: either too narrowly, or by the revolution.

You can hang on top of the protective caps of one-and-liter plastic bottles and at least once every 2 weeks twist the clutch switch there.

By the way, the covers on the coupling are well out of the anthers of the steering from the bull, it is necessary to take only a hole with a rubber band, it's true, if you want to raise the bushes, you can lose it, so it's any sorts of shrin. Full of water protects.

First, the seal of the switch. I had a plastic gland (Esno with small tension). Well, it is easy to achieve a dense flooring of the cuffs on the inner diameter (for example, using the FUM to consider the isolate or tape. Check how the cuff is entered into the housing - it must be tightly, but with hand to rotate. Next, we collect all the insides, without forgetting to put a lock nut on the switch screw (I have it There was no coupling "figured out"). I generally used the coupling not lubrication, but a transmission. Well, when assembling, do not forget about the sealant :-) [chiff] What to do so that the coupling "ELO" automatically switched?

Included Elmo coupling to 4x2 position. After a few kilometers on the left wheel, the shooter turned out to be about 4x4. Turn on 4x2 again. Repeated. Moreover, the faster you are going, the sooner jumps. Clear is a disease. Disassembled the coupling, looked - and did not understand anything. I called a friend, he, although not a UAZOD, but a very smart man. After a couple of minutes he says - "Make a deepening here." In the design of the coupling there is a cup with three figured recesses along the border of which when switching 4x2-4x4 ride balls and remain in extreme positions. On the left coupling in the 4x2 position, the ball is where shown in the figure and when moving seeks to move to the opposite corner. It is necessary to just make a small recess for a clearer fixation. It helped me. [Anatoly Hohryakov (Hohan)]

Buzzing bridge. What could it be?

If you are sure that it is the bridge that is buzzing, and not something else - then it should be sorted out. For some reason, our people believe that nothing can happen to the bridge :) - Maybe, and as. I have a buzzing bridge in the old UAZ - when I was tired of it - I disassembled and discovered a broken shank half-one in the entrance to the bearing in the onboard gearbox - I knew the half-one, at the same time I changed the main pair (once disassembled the bridge), a few bearings and all the seals - repair It cost 10% of the cost of a new bridge - no buoy, sharply decreased the flow rate of fuel, etc. So do not do garbage - go through the bridge. By the way, I recommend to roll out the bridge from under the car assembly, right on the wheels - I, like a fool, disassembled in place - was afraid, then it came to me - I gathered completely separately from the car, I poured the oil, and therea. And rolled back - it remains to attach Spring shock absorbers and brake tubes :).
Gul comes from the main transfer of the front bridge. This is normal. I have after the first 4 thousand and the replacement of oil in the transmission (poured Tad-17) the noise was much mibysh. In winter, on a snow-covered road with a drop-down front axle at a speed of 80-90 km / h there is only a light whistle. My "goat", unlike the majority, to the rear semi-axes (from the end) are welded (or fastened) caps of an unknown destination. Does anyone know why they are needed and needed at all? The fact is that I want to put the caps on the discs, and because of these protruding conical caps, I will have to cut an extra hole in the caps. How to tear them? I tried to unscrew them, but nothing happened.

This is a constructive non-degenerate feature of military bridges. These caps transmit a moment with a short semi-axis gearbox on the hub (inside the slots). Most likely, you have to do an extra hole. And you can also change bridges. I saw recently strange hubs on the "Baton". Bridges ordinary, civil, and the semi-axis flange is attached not six, but ten bolts (as on the military). What would it be like that?

I bought such hubs a year ago. They differ from the same holes for the number of holes and are compatible with them (sixball semi-axes are sitting on them without alterations). On the normal hub and the normal semi-axes of discrepancies should not be absolutely. Of these 10 holes 6, exactly coincide with the old. The remaining 4 were added in the middle between them, and were left 2 passes in order for removable semi-axis bolts there (there are 2 holes with a threader in it to spare it out of the hub, if stuck. Here are these holes just need to be sent to Pass holes in a 10-hole hub). And the 6-hole hubs now nobody sells and does not release. And why, if they do without alterations and finishing should get up instead of 6-hole? How to adjust the tightening of the hub bearings?

In the bearings, the trick is - if you delay the first nut for a normal bearing tension, then the second one, when you start choose the slack in the thread and displays the bearing. I adjust to removing the brake drum, so that the nave and spinning in the bearings after the correction is easily and evenly, without bite, i.e. evenly. If the bearing is slightly tormented, then the rotation goes with jerks, as in the sand, the fingers feel well.
Then I check with a row wheel - then the lever is large. October 2003. About the Sls on the Willis System

We have come on the sale of half-axes of the front axle (hinge of unequal angular velocities) via the Willis system (American). From our relatives, they differ from that instead of five little stupid balls there is one big. On it in two mutually perpendicular planes throughout the circle, grooves are made. This grooves include two forks. Their advantages: do not wear out at all (the eternal system), in principle they cannot swam (what happens from relatives), a greater angle of rotation of the front wheels is possible. I have the fifth year, you have proven yourself great! There are cheaper relatives. Produced, it seems to me in Vyksa (Nizhny Novgorod region) [Misha from the bottom]

As far as I understand, kinematically does not differ from the usual cardanian hinge. This means that it is truly unequal angular velocities (which is worse than equal, as a native) and that the angle of rotation of the wheels is less than that of the native shrus. Now, if the groats were not in the planes, but would have a more complicated form, then it would completely change the matter. In addition, there are the most loaded surfaces have friction of slip, and not rolling, as in relatives, this means that the lubricant is desirable, apparently, hypoid (and not lithol) ... Ensuring, for the same reason, is also doubtful. Another thing is that native is enough to wear a little to jam, and these can, apparently, wear out to slandering the forks. I have a book on the history of the domestic automotive industry, so there is a disk hinge. He is kinematically equivalent, in my opinion, two cardan, combined at one point. I definitely do not remember, but, perhaps, it was this design that was called the "Willis type hinge". This is a hinge of equal angular velocities, if only because it is symmetrical. And the angle of rotation of the wheels from him, apparently, more ... Signs of need for adjusting / replacement of a pussy

When driving bumps, when bouncing strikes in the steering wheel.

Having high up the wheel with a jambraticle, you take off the wheel (right at the earth) and you start pulling on yourself - from myself, i.e. Along the axis of the bridge. If the backlash is small, then normally, if large, then you need to do or gaskets, or change everything. How to unscrew the pruring gearbox gearbox? After three years, the cork salt at the bridges were attached to the bridges. It turns out 2 mm sticking out - you will not grab, the hexagon slot became round. I defeated one plug by the Sadistic method - drilled it and the tanks smelled the remnants of the thread - it took it 2.5 days. Tell me if there is less bloody way?

I took a vice (they had new sponges, ribbed, of solid alloy) and dived with them under the car. Cubs burned very much, putting on the tube's handle. After that, I slept into the hole of the vyes scrap and sharply, pulled greatly. The cork was supplied to 1/6 turns. Next is the case of technology.
You can still try to grab first with passats (a semicircular part with a good notch), and then the passage to hold the tisks. In this way, I have repeatedly turned the crushed bolts and studs.

Believe me - the most faithful: toggle the nut on the plug is just it seems difficult - in fact the easiest way.
Cork with welding will roll and offset. Easily unscrew the simple head. Cork can be used further

There are these traffic jams on sale. We have the same with our Volga, so you can try to look at the Gas stores.
We have the standard sequence of actions was as follows:
1) We save the hexagon from the hammer to 13 (and break the face on the plug finally);
2) knock the cork with a chisel counterclockwise, (until it is flush with the bridge);
3) welcome the piece of iron (for example, a hexagon) and trying to unscrew over it, (leave several times);
4) Drill a 12-14 mm hole in the traffic jam (from now on, if the plug is plugged, you can plug it with a tree :) And you will distribute the remaining ring in half and remove the parts ... (Attention: on corks conical carving!)
I wish to turn the plug in the first stages The car "goes" at high speed. Shock absorbers, wheels, steering in order. What's the matter?

The symptom is very characteristic of a malfunction called "Incorrect adjustment of wheel hub bearings" - an increased backlash in them causes "lying" of one or more wheels, which immediately affects the course stability. Apparently, you ... constantly drive "for 100", although chassis Machines, and, in particular, the wheeled hubs are not entirely adapted for this. UAZ has a huge unsappressive mass and a very hard suspension! I advise you to audit the front wheels, for sure there is also a big backlash, or in general - the destruction of separators, although in the latter case you would hear it even on Uaz.
Tighten the bearings accurately according to the instructions and not "before eliminating the hand of the back of the backup", even if the wheel will rotate a little tightly - check later, on the heating hub. [Mahno]

Fully agrees with Makhno about the hubs, but the course stability can be significantly influenced and a kkvorni, and especially the sleeves. Theoretically, there may be such a situation: Skvorni could initially be put in swivel fists without a sleeve (which only we do not happen?) At first they worked and without sleeves due to the fact that they were well pressed to swivel fist. Love, the shruses began to hang out. Hence the term instability.
It is necessary to do what Makhno advises - hang the front wheels, stew in the vertical direction. If there is a backlash - disassemble the hubs and tighten the bearings. If, after that, the backlash will not disappear - then to engage in kkworn. Adjusting wheel convergence

Here is one of the simple ways.
We find suitable in size (it should be free with a gap of 5-30 mm pass between the wheels) stick, tube, etc. At worst, it is possible to use even a thick branch of a suitable length. Then you make markings from the inside of the tires (in the middle between the protector and the edge of the disk) and you measure the distance between them with a stick and a ruler (it is measured by the gap between the end of the stick and the sidewall. Then you rolling the car so that the wheel has made 1/2 turnover and produce again. Measurement. The difference of the testimony of the line and there is a gathering. At the same time, the gap in front should be less than behind.
Ideally, 2 tubes are used, one of which with a small gap enters the other [chiff] How to remove the lid of the right upper pivot (with the steering lever)?

This lever is very loaded, therefore, on the heels, under the nuts of its attachments, "crackers" are installed in special wells - kylene conical liners with a cut. They are, when fitting with a nut from above, crimping around the rod of the studs, and ensure reliable fastening of the lever. Over time, all this business is strongly rusting from water that falls there and, indeed, if not this node itself collected, remove the lever is very difficult - the crackers like themselves eat themselves between the body of the lever and the hairpin. It is not necessary to warm this thing. The nuts need to be removed, clean everything around and find and clear the cuts on the "breadcrumbs" - to pour around the WD-40 or kerosene triggers, wait two hours, periodically watered. But then - knocking with a hammer (500 g) along the top plane of the lever, from above. On the hairpins put something so that they do not break them - torture to turn out later. Periodically tapping from the sides, but rustling. [Mahno] Several tips on the disassembly of a military bridge (to replace the Sls)

For disassembly, you only need to unscrew the wheel, and half.
And focusing: collecting the onboard gear crankcase or with an old gasket or with the same as stood in thickness. This is important for rolling gear.
And not unscrewing without an extreme need to fix the housing of the small roller bearing (2-bolts are similar to the cardan) the reason is the same [elk postal] Homemade puller kkworn

Take a piece of sheet steel, 100x150 and a thickness of about 8-10 mm, drilled a hole in the center of 11 mm. And all! To this, another 80-10 mm bolt m10 and a nut with a washer.
Procedure: Remove the thrust plate, its bolts are reversed, by hand, so that they perform at 15 mm, put their plate on top, the bolt is screwed the nut and putting the washer, through the hole in the "removal", to complete him in a king. Now, if holding the head of the bolt, rotate the nut, the kinstroin will easily come out. [Mahno]

Removing the pin, the Sls and from the inside we cut the specific or sledgehammer through the mandrel. Perhaps together with the sleeves. And the sleeve is all unwrapped with a scan.
(folk recipes) "Volgov" bridges

We ... make combined bridges. Carter Bridge take from the Volga 24-ki and press the UAZ stockings, and the main couples put different, but the most comfortable from GAZ-21 (9x41Zub). Such bridges go longer, and more reliable, UAZ does not lose power and become more speed.

I reddamed my native bridge on GAZ-24. The speed has become much higher, the flow rate is 11-12 liters. True with a load of 600-800 kg a little heavy

An unexpected revelation for me was the fact that the glands, in particular the nipped, corrosive (Z8OPRST) by ordinary Litol for some week there. The working edge does not remain at all, and the rest, smearing the black soot: (I concluded that before installing, the glands need to hold the day or two in the medium, similar to the one in which they will work (for example, in a mixture of Litola and Tad) and See what will happen. How to get rid of the leaks through the hubs of bridges (provided that the breather is good and the seals in order - (y))

Need: Abro-red sealant, Abro blue thread lock, solvent (you can White Spirit, kerosene, but gasoline is very undesirable!) If the hub cap bolts are very worn, then new bolts, and some more rags. First, remove the covers, the bolts (even new) are scattered in the solvent, the lid and the hub wipe with rags and solvent, we wait until dried. We take a sealant, and a thin layer with a smear lid and hub, then with a naked finger (the aesthetes can wear rubber gloves or something in size is suitable :) I smear the sealant so that it lay a thin smooth layer. Yes, the wheel is desirable to subdominize to easier to combine holes in the lid and the hub. We dress the lid, but not to the end, turn the wheel with the wheel, we take the bolts, wipe them completely, pump the lock on the thread, and we hinder the bolts. Yes, Grovers are not needed completely, without them better. Then evenly tighten the bolts and delay finally. The sealant should get out quite a bit, to frozen, cut off excess. Immediately go after that it is impossible, it is advisable for the wheel to land on the ground. That's all. The entire operation takes the maximum half an hour on the wheel. Nika leaky, no unscruiting, which and you wish! [Roman AKA hippidness 4x4] Comparison of ordinary ("civilian") bridges and bridges "Spyser"

From "Spyersers":

On the machines "Hunter" and on the new machines of the family of 316x are installed kkvorni and the stars of the new sample. Skvorni of the new sample is recognized by healthy nuts on the caps of a kinst. Figure see.

Authorship - Voldi.

Bridges (central part) MTZ-82 + onboard gearboxes from T-40. Established "native" self-blocking locks from MTZ in both bridges. Rubber 36 "

Who at least a little fond of off-road, full-wheel drive or simply lives in the village, at least once (or even one), tried to understand what the civil bridges of the UAZ, from the military. Today, our edition decided to answer this question for all, Rahu details in the simplest language (well, or not at all).

Immediately proceed to the disaster is not correct, you need to understand the entire context and the relationship of future facts, perhaps and let's start with them.

History

Essence: Describe the machine on a new base, less weight (to increase the passability), dynamic, not inferior to gas 66, so that the car can move on the march throwing with columns of tanks, while easily served in field conditions. And as a bonus - the price of production should be low, but using modern technologies at that time.

Because for agriculture also required a car of high passability. Immediately Spoiler - UAZ came out in 1966, while People's Niva in 1975, consider 10 years of difference.

So, in order to save engineering and production resources, it was decided to create two types of bridges, for military and civil problems. In everyday life, ordinary UAZ bridges were simply called - collective farm, and the military portal or gearboxes.

What is the difference between them?

In military bridges, there is an onboard gearbox between the hub and the semi-axis, in an additional crankcase.

Pluses "Vary"

• 5 - 8 cm more - 80 cm.
• The load is uniformly distributed between the gearbox and the main pair, which not only increases the passability of off-road, but also well affects reliability. Plus the teeth of the main pair more;
• Greater is issued low revolutions engine;
• The ability to take extra weight or trailer, without a special reduction in passability;
• Less picky to oil in gearboxes;
• Withstands lower \\ high temperatures;
• Better eat in the slides.

Minuses

• Installation on civil service will be not a simple matter;
• Skvorni's adjustment will have more often;
• Noise when moving will be very loud, the selection of oil will only partially solve the problem;
• Require maintenance, if you score, then at a mark of 50.000 km. Start with oil.

Pluses of standard bridges

• Weight. They weigh less, which reduces fuel consumption. On average, 1.5-2 liters per 100 km, compared with warriors;
• Lightweight weight also affects comfort when driving (if the word comfort is generally applicable to UAZ);
• Any repairs are always cheaper and easier;
• Handling is better;
• Less noise at speed (although so-so advantage, noise insulation and UAZ things are different);
• The ability to additionally install differential locks. At warors, of course, you can also, only problems will be more, and the price tag is significantly higher;
• It is possible to establish a spring suspension, instead of spring;
• Spare parts to find easier;
• Require less oil.

Does it make sense to put them?

UAZ is a specific car for movement in the conditions of the city, it is not suitable from the word at all, another thing is fields and dirt, i.e. Her native element. This is primarily an SUV, or a vehicle for residents of villages and villages, where every autumn or after rain, four-wheel drive remains the last connection with civilization (as an example with hunters and fishermen, for it is too obvious).

For civilian tasks, ordinary bridges are enough for the eyes, but fans of jeeping or farmers, the excess permeability will never hurt. Only there is a reverse side - maximum speedwill fall up to 90 km. h., But who will be so overclocked by the UAZ in the field or on the track?

Of course, it is necessary to put them, if necessary, but much easier and cheaper, immediately buy a UAZ on such bridges, the most optimal option - with a military conservation. It is inexpensive, and the state will be better than the analogues from Avito and other automotive sites.

• As for spare parts, for military options, it is easy to go and buy in the nearest store will not work, the easiest way out is to disassemble;
• The gear ratios 5.38 against 4.63 (guess where it is better :));
• To break the semi-axis or shrus, in warriors, insanely difficult, but perhaps. This is a stick about two ends - reliability at times above, but if I broke, you will have to fork out well for repairs;
• If the warward broke down, sometimes it is cheaper to buy a new bridge in the collection than to repair the old, and in time it will be tangible, although lovers hang in the garage, constantly engaged in repair, such a fact will not stop;
• But to put civil bridges, instead of the military, it will not be easy, it will be necessary to improve and experience, although the Internet is still a hundred times painted, the same Drive2 to help.

All familiar gas 69 served for a long time for the benefit of the people. This is a kind of all-terrain vehicle, which was needed by a change. The Ulyanovsk Automotive Plant took up the preparation of the release of a new car, which was replaced by this all-terrain vehicle.

The history of the creation of bridges on the UAZ

Front and rear UAZ bridge

The task was serious and difficult, but it was still decided to decide. The main customer for such transport was the Ministry of Defense. Military wanted to have such a car that could be easy high passability, dynamic, capable of moving where it is possible to do only on the tank. But at the same time, it should be inexpensive, easy to use, technological, to have an easy repair. In the national economy, there was also the need for such cars, due to the fact that the roads left much to be desired.

Designers created two bridges: civil and military. They are installed on Cars of production UAZ.

Civil bridges call "collective farm." Fixed on such cars as "loaf", "Golovastik", "Kozlik", long and classic, "farmer".

Military bridge - gear, two-stage, P-shaped bridge. Their installation is produced on some samples of "goats" with an indicator of 0.3x. The new "goats" (316 *) put bridges like "Spice", "Barsa" (3159 *) and 316 * with raised rips - elongated military cores, gearly with extensive stockings.

Distinctive features of UAZ with military bridges

The military bridge has onboard gearboxes. This makes it possible to increase automatic clearance. They are distinguished by reliability, since the main pair has a larger teeth, but the quantitative composition is less than that of civilian bridges.

This is how military bridges look like

The appointment of military bridges is that they are able to move on dirt and deep rut without much effort. Therefore, an additional road clearance of a military bridge at 8 cm gave the possibility of moving such a road off-road. Increased torque in off-road conditions also became a huge plus and help. The speed of movement on such a car, especially on the track, is reduced, and more than 90 km / h, the car with a military bridge will not be able to accelerate. UAZ is not intended for racing on the roads, it exists to move on broken roads.

There are myths created by the same motorists concerning noise, rank, high-speed regime, the consumption of military bridges:

1. UAZ car allows movement with a sufficiently high speed if the parts of its high-quality assembly bridge and the main connections are well completed.
2. Only faulty front or rear axle of the car can make noise, regardless of whether it is military or not.
3. Military bridges have excellent rolls (raid). Regardless of its type, only non-working may have a difficulty sick.
4. The military can be much economted by collective farm bridges. Consumption is fully due to the quality of the engine, the health of the bridge.

The diametral handle of the steering wheel is straightforward and short, it is located from one wheel to another. This item of the military can not be replaced with a collective farmer. You can buy "warriors" and without autotag for the front axle.

Bought separately, the craving must be attached before pumping the bridge so that the hubs do not come into afterwards.

Our automotive industry produces two types of steering bumps: the first in Yekaterinburg, the second - in Nizhny Novgorod. This replacement part Installed in the left swivel fist.

The sump is made of a holistic metal, by milling, without welding elements. If a new tower is installed, it is not necessary to think that efforts on the steering wheel will change, they remain optimal. In the process of assembly, the bumps are cleaned, lubricated and tightened with fasteners, in accordance with the instructions of the manufacturer of the UAZ car adjustment.

Features of brake shields and subtleties

When the front axle requires repair, you need to pay attention to brake shields.

The front and rear shield of military and civil bridges have the difference from each other. Military can be installed on collective farm bridges, and the last - only with refinement.

Distinctive features of shields:

1. The closest fastener of the collective farmer is placed exactly under the braking cylinder, the brake assembly of the military bridge does not have such accuracy and is intermediates the holes. The brake disc will leave a bit of sideways and down, when pumping a particle of air remains in the corner of the cylinder, difficulties will arise.
2. Planting hole. The dimensions of them at bridges are the same, but the landing is slightly different, in this case the collective farm bridge will be strengthened in the side of the Tsamp.
3. Footman. Military bridge has positive departure 4 mm. The central plane is below the outer side of 4 mm. In the case of the installation of the "collective farm" in the place of "warriors" brake drum, the brake shield is knocked out. In Auto UAZ with a military bridge, the landing center will be below the outerboard on the same 4 mm.

Remover improved UAZ increased significantly

Many motorists dream of such an SUV. But to buy it, whether it is new or used, you need to pay attention to such subtleties as:

• year of production, color execution, rally, price;
• avtokusov Technology: Corrosion, Anticorre's Use;
• inspection of the roof of the car. which will help you know, the factory is or converted by their own hands;
• bridge category: gear, "collective farmer" or "spice";
• the magnitude of fuel consumption and oil oil;
• suspension form: Spring, spring;
• power steering;
• the opinion of the seller about the state of his car;
• car tuning;
• question with license plates, chassis state numbers, engine;
• availability of other UAZ car owners with a military bridge;
• TCP - registration at the place of residence;
• permissibility of removal / registration.

All this information can be obtained by telephone car owner who is going to sell a car.

Right choice when buying

Inspection of UAZ cars with military bridges at the parking lot when making a choice for the purchase of a used car.

A large amount of faults can be eliminated without certain efforts and consequences - spare parts for such cars can always be found on disassembly, in auto shops and markets. When checking the engine must start, there should be no blue and black exhaust from the pipe. Listen to Engine B. different modes Works, pay attention to the noise and screens - a prerequisite. Under the engine you need to look for oil drums - under the machine should be dry.

Before buying, careful diagnosis is needed.

The lubrication system is checked by PCU, the oil cannot have additives and education. The topping level is maximum.

The cooling system is checked by fixing the fluid in the expansion. Appearance The radiator and the engine must be without inclects and stains. The temperature of the motor is kept at a constant level.

To assess the generator, you need to idling Press the gas pedal. In terms of instruments, you can judge the mileage of the car. If a big mileage, more than 80,000 km, then check the compression is simply necessary. It is advisable to perform this procedure when the engine troit is badly pulling. You can compare readings by using the instructions for use.

The corrosion of the body plays a huge role for the driver, who decided to acquire the UAZ with military bridges.

Connections with floor, swivel brackets, framing windshield, Suspension from plastic, place under pedals, thresholds where fine garbage and condensate accumulates, body skirt rear Lights - All this can be found when buying used cars UAZ.

Steering device - in place check the backlash and jamming. When switching transmissions there can be no noise and squeaks, the CAT should allow transmission without their falling out.

Skvorni should be without a backlash, you need to shift the front wheels for the top.

Checking the brakes is that when you press the pedal, they have been triggered in a certain mode, the machine to the side should not be entered.

Kardana's backlash can manifest itself when it rotates. The rest of the backlash can not be. Buy UAZ can each, but not everyone will understand how to carry out its repair and what parts for this need it.