All sensors. The main malfunctions of the engine sensors starter makes an unusual sound, but the anchor rotates in the same mode

Injector power unit, which is installed on the VAZ 2115, has an electronic control unit. In order to adjust the functioning of the engine, the electronics constantly monitors the changes that work is accompanied. Sensors are used for this. About this further in the article.

The VAZ 2115 sensor panel includes the following instruments:

• Speedometer. Shows the driver of the current velocity velocity vehicle. The speedometer receives information about the velocity of the car due to the sensor, which is on the checkpoint.
• Tachometer. Located to the left of the speedometer. Is an electronic devicereceiving signals from the BC and reflecting the current crankshaft turns.
• Fuel level pointer. It is located to the right of the speedometer. Shows the amount of fuel in the tank.
• Level pointer Co. Reports the temperature of the coolant. The pointer is to the left of the tachometer. Information comes from the corresponding sensor.

Sensor diagram VAZ 2115

Sensors on VAZ 2115 are as follows:

1. Phase sensor.
2. Temperature Sensor Co.
3. Knock sensor.
4. Oil pressure sensor.
5. Oxygen sensor.
6. Crankshaft position sensor.
7. Speed \u200b\u200bsensor.
8. Idling sensor.
9. DMRV.
10. Fuel level sensor.
11. Gasoline level sensor.
12. Tosol level sensor.
13. Throttle position sensor.

Temperature sensor VAZ 2115

Dzuz differs simplicity of design and durability. The only task is to track the temperature changes of the coolant. The electronic unit uses information obtained from the sensor to adjust the crankshaft speed and the ratio of the air and fuel mixture, as well as to select the ignition advance angle.

Idling sensor VAZ 2115

The idling sensor is not only an instrument for reading indicators, but also by an adjusting device that directly affects the operation of the motor at idle.

This unit has an electric drive, as well as a conical needle that is part of the throttle pipe. Under conditions of idle speed, the LCH changes the position of the needle, closing or opening the nozzle, which adjusts the amount of air that is supplied to the throttle node.

VAZ Speed \u200b\u200bSensor 2115

Information about the current velocity of the vehicle speed sensor transmits by pulse signals. Depending on the frequency of the receipt of these signals the electronic unit Determines the velocity of the vehicle.

The information obtained is used to adjust the rotor speed at idle. When the speed sensor breaks, the fuel consumption is significantly increased at idle, the speedometer does not work and the engine cras.

Oil Sensor VAZ 2115

The oil pressure sensor is designed to communicate the motorist about breakdowns in the oil system. More precisely, it fixes that the pressure fell in the system, reporting a car owner through the emergency pressure lamp, which is located in the cabin on the instrument panel.

VAZ 2115 crankshaft sensor

DKPB is a device that serves in the electronic unit information about the position of the crankshaft. The correct operation of the nozzles depends on the operation of this node. injector motor, ignition systems and submission systems fuel mixes.

This device is not rarely called synchronization sensor, because on the basis of the data obtained from the DCPV, the electronic unit determines the moment of fuel injection into the cylinders power aggregate. When this sensor breaks into the brain, the car will be submitted incorrect information and the power unit will lose its performance, since malfunction will occur in the fuel supply system, and nozzles will not be able to function correctly. There is a DCPV near the camshaft, near the generator belt.

Air Sensor VAZ 2115

Thanks to the information obtained with DMRV, the electronic unit regulates the optimal ratio of gas and gasoline in the fuel mixture, which is supplied to the engine nozzles. If the device works incorrectly, the combustible mixture will not respond to the requirements of the current mode of operation of the engine, which entails the reduction in power and deterioration of the dynamics, as well as increased fuel consumption.

Fuel Sensor VAZ 2115

The fuel level sensor is designed to control the level of fuel in the car's tank. If, when you start the battery, it shows that the tank is empty, and after the start of the reading, the readings are changing, you must replace the sensor. Replacement is also needed if the device does not respond when you refuel (shows an empty tank).

Detacon Sensor VAZ 2115

A properly working detonation sensor is the key to the normal functioning of the VAZ engine. With his breakdown, the motor will trim, and fuel consumption will increase. The detonation sensor responds to the vibration of the power unit, information about which is transmitted to the electronic unit, which allows the computer to choose the correct ignition advance angle. The device is attached to the cylinder block near the fan.

Oxygen Sensor VAZ 2115

Lambda probe, he oxygen sensor, reports an information about the amount of oxygen content exhaust gases. He is in the receiving manifold exhaust pipe, near the resonator.

VAZ 2115 fan sensor

This sensor is located in the stove radiator. Inside it is a special contact group. When the coolant in the radiator heats up, this group is also heated and expands. And when this extension comes to the desired limit, the contacts are closed, the signal is transmitted to the wiring and the fan is turned on.

Phase sensor VAZ 2115

The phase sensor transmits to the electronic unit information about the current engine function cycle: which open valve is open and which is currently implemented as the gas distribution phase. Based on the data obtained, the electronic unit determines the fuel injection point in such a way that the fuel is supplied directly before opening the inlet valve. The device is on the engine, near the GBC, not far from the air filter.

Throttle Sensor VAZ 2115

DPDZ - one of the key devices, the correctness of which affects the functioning fuel system. This sensor transmits information to the brains, at what anglation is currently located. throttle valve.

One of the main characteristics of the DPDZ is the frequency of the signal. Based on the signal frequency changes, the motor control unit determines the degree of pressing on the gas mission, which allows "brains" to select the most optimal cooling mode and the amount of fuel supplied.

VAZ 2115 reverse sensor

The only function of the reverse sensor is to turn on the rear white lights when the driver drops back. The signal that gives the sensor to white lights, reports to other participants in the movement, that the driver is touched back either already moved and moves to rear end. And in the dark for your convenience, these white lights highlight the way back, informing the rest of your intentions.

20.05.2014

The first injection 14th appeared in 2000-2001. After their appearance, and in general injector machines, everyone actively engaged in a restructuring in the carburetor system, they say "Carburetor is more reliable", and the specialists on the injectors could be counted on the fingers.

Now this situation is observed with the alteration of electronic gas pedal to the cable.

But it is worth noting that some experts have already learned to customize and flash E-gas, roll back the turbo engine, compressor, not to mention evil shafts.

As for the sensors, they all serve to build the engine operation.

Engine management system

In general, the entire engine control system consists of two components:

• Brain.
• Sensors.

The brains take the test states from the sensors, analyze and control the engine operation using the same sensors.

Now let's talk about the sensors themselves who are involved in the engine:

1. Position sensor crankshaft (DPKV) - serves to synchronize the engine operation with the work of the ECU, works on the principle of induction. In the event of a malfunction, the car is badly started, does not pull, ... in more detail in the appropriate.
2. Position sensor distribution Vala (DPRV) - often refer to the "phase sensor". Used to determine the phased injection. It is possible to work with a faulty sensor. More.
3. The throttle position sensor (DPDZ), or the gas pedal position sensor (if the electronic gas pedal is placed since 2011). As for DPDZ, it is paired with RXH. DPDZ determines the degree of opening of the throttle unit. If this sensor is faulty, then there is no reaction to the gas pedal, turns spontaneously grow, etc. In more detail in the appropriate.
4. The detonation sensor (DD) - the name speaks for itself. The detonation sensor catches the engine vibration (detonation) according to this is ahead of the ignition angle. In detail in the appropriate.
5. Cooling fluid temperature sensor (DPT) - Simply put, engine temperature sensor. Installed on the thermostat is designed to control the temperature mode of the engine. Details, how to replace, check -.
6. Sensor mass flow Air (DMRV) is the most expensive sensor, so his breakdown is extremely unpleasant. With this sensor, the ECU reads the amount of air consumed. Major faults are the lack of thrust at a motor, idle problems. On this site, good meaningful articles are devoted to this sensor, you can familiarize yourself.
7. Speed \u200b\u200bsensor (DS) - Speed \u200b\u200bsensor is intended primarily for measuring the velocity of the vehicle and it is located on the gearbox. But it also has other functions - about it.
8. Oxygen concentration sensor, or simply oxygen sensor (DC) - determines the amount of oxygen in exhaust system, adjusts the mixture of fuel and air. On Euro-2, 1 sensor is installed, two sensors are installed on Euro-3. Very often, after 60 thousand km. Mileage The second sensor is disabled software. With our gasoline, he fails. But nevertheless, it can be repaired and replaced. Also, DC is the cause of many problems, about it.
9. Idling regulator (RXX) (until 2011) or throttle with electric drive (from 2011) - this sensor is responsible for a stable idle course. Passes air into the engine on idling Bypassing DPDZ. Quite the capricious sensor, often replacing. The main malfunction is an unstable idling. Often comes across marriage. About it .
10. The throttle electric drive - () is that it is an electronic throttle, which does not open the gas pedal cable (mechanical), but brains (electronically).
11. Gas pedal position sensor - (E-gas) - The sensor indicates the position of the position of the gas pedal to the ECU, which in turn opens the electronic throttle.

As you can see, in general, the number of sensors is not big, but believe me, many of them have delivered many problems by car owners, so carefully study this material.

Several faults that are often found on the cars of the family 2115.

Cooling system

If malfunctions occur in the cooling system, come from the road and stop the engine.

Open the hood and carefully examine the booming space. If pairs are broken, we define a specific place. We inspect the motor, check the expansion tank to the position of the coolant level. For one define the state of the thermostat, radiator, rubber hoses in the engine cooling system.

It is impossible immediately after stopping the engine to unscrew the cork expansion tank. In the cooling system, the liquid is under greater pressure. When we unscrew the plug, the pressure drops sharply, and according to the laws of physics, the coolant boils. Naturally, her splashes can lead to the burns and face burns. If there is an urgent need to unscrew the plug of the expansion tank at a not yet cooled engine, it is necessary to draw some dense tissue from above and only after that slowly unscrew the plug.

You will not be lazy to look under the VAZ-2115 instrument panel. Under it can be found fluttering a coolant combined from the tap of the heater or radiator.

If the cooling fluid flux is caused by a bundled hose, it can be patched with a sticky tape (tape, tape).

Much more problems, if leak comes from the heater, radiator or thermostat. It is difficult to eliminate it on the way. In this situation, it is recommended to add water to the cooling system and while traveling to follow the temperature testimony. If necessary, the level in the cooling system will have to be periodically reconstructed. Please note that if it is most likely to use water instead of Tosol, it will most likely provoke the formation of the WAZ-2115 cooling system. As a result, cooling will deteriorate, and the motor will decrease. Therefore, after an emergency trip, you will definitely eliminate flow, drain the diluted water liquid, rinse the system and fill the fresh cooling fluid. The most important condition is in the superheated engine cold water to add it forbidden! The motor should at least half an hour cooled with an open hood.

If the cooling system of the VAZ 2115 is faulty, and the leaks of the coolant are not observed, check the intake of the fuse number 5 (for 20a). It performs the function of forced protection of the onboard power supply chain in the cooling system electric fan. There is a fuse B. mounting blocklocated in the windscarette space. If the electric motor after replacing the fuse earned, the journey can be continued.

If the electric motor after replacing the fuse has not earned, do additional diagnostics. Take two additional wires and give meals to the electric motor directly from the battery.

Consider the wires must be isolated and securely fixed. Changing wires can not be allowed! We definitely pay attention to the polarity of the connection: the electric motor should thus rotate so that the fan is pulled by the air to the engine through the radiator, and the direction of the incoming (way) air flow and the air flow fan coincided.

If the motor after these manipulations earn, it means that the wiring of the cooling system or the fan power relay is faulty. Locked the relay under the lining with right side Console dashboard VAZ 2115. If the engine is deaf, the motor itself is malfunction or wiring. Unfortunately, neither the electric motor nor the relay repair is subject to and will require substitutions.

The engine can also overheat on the occasion of the failure of the thermostat. This unit regulates the flow of fluid flow on the cooling system or bypassing the radiator (to speed up the warm engine warming), or through the radiator. Check the thermostat is not difficult: on a warm engine taking the lower hose connecting the radiator and the engine. If the cold hose, the thermostat is most likely faulty, therefore the circulation of the coolant does not flow through the radiator.

Brake system

Possible malfunctions of brake systems and ways to eliminate them
Cause of malfunction	Remedy
Increased brake pedal
The presence of air in the hydraulic system	Pump the system
The thrust ring of the rear wheel cylinder's piston lost elasticity and under the action of a coupling spring of the brake pads along with the piston shifts inside the cylinder	Replace wheel cylinder assembly
Violation of tightness brake system (leak fluids)	Determine the place of fluid leakage and replace the parts that affect the flow. During the leaks in pipeline connections, pull the connections or replace the sealing pads
Increased clearance between the head of the adjusting bolt vacuum amplifier and piston of the main cylinder	Cm.<Вакуумный усилитель>
The brake pedal slowly moves down with an effort on it and tightened the parking brake.
Damage to the cuff 14 (see Fig. 8.3)	Replace damaged cuff
Brake mechanisms of all wheels or axes are not completely disbuled (posted wheels rotate tight)
Lack of gap between the head of the adjusting bolt of the vacuum amplifier and the piston of the main cylinder	Cm.<Вакуумный усилитель>
An incomplete return of brake pedal after braking due to improper braking signal switch setting	Set the gap (8 + 1) mm (see Fig. 7.16) between the plastic tip of the braking signal and focus on the pedal
Close of compensation openings of the main brake cylinder or overlapping the compensation holes edges of the cuff 14 (see Fig. 8.3)	Remove the main cylinder tank and connecting bushings 3 (see Fig. 8.3). Clean a soft wire with a diameter of 0.6 mm compensation holes. If the wire rests on the cuff, then you need to disassemble the main cylinder and replace the swollen cuffs 14
One brake mechanism is not disstained (posted wheel rotates tight)
Crimping the guide fingers at the base of the front bracket	Replace or lubricate guide fingers. Replace damaged finger covers (see<Замена направляющих пальцев>)
Enchanting pistons in the brake brake housing	Remove the brake brake body from base, remove dirt and traces of corrosion from the surface of the cylinder of the case and lubricate the working surfaces with the NG-213 liquid or castor oil (see.<Ремонт тормозного механизма переднего колеса>)
Loss of the elasticity of the brake brake casing sealing ring	Remove the brake brake body from base and replace the sealing ring (see<Ремонт тормозного механизма переднего колеса>)
Singing the pads due to severe contamination of the base groove	Remove the pads and clear the guide groove and ledge of the base from corrosion and dirt (see<Замена колодок тормозных механизмов передних колес>)
Weakening or breakdown of the coupling spring pads of the rear brake mechanism	Replace spring
Enchanting the pistons of the rear brake mechanism due to contamination or corrosion	Disassemble the wheeler cylinder, clean the parts from dirt and corrosion, rinse, replace the dirt covers
Blowing sealing rings of the rear wheel cylinder pistons	Replace sealing rings and brake fluid
Lack of gap between brake lining and rear brake drum due to improper installation of a stop automatic adjustment ring	Disassemble wheeled cylinder, eliminate stubborn ring skew
Driva or by car in the direction when braking
Single air pressure in tires	Tire pressure to normal
Combining friction linings in one of the brake mechanisms	Replace blocks or rinse with gasoline overlays with subsequent grinding of shallow skin and careful removal of abrasive dust with overlays
Zadira or deep risks on the surface brake disc or drum	Repair or replace disk or brake drum assembly with hub
Flow brake fluid In one of the front brake mechanisms or wheeled cylinders	Eliminate leak
Rear wheels are blocked before the front due to the malfunction of the pressure regulator or incorrect adjustment of its drive	Adjust or replace pressure regulator (see<Регулировка регулятора давления>)
Insufficient braking efficiency (enlarged effort on brake pedal)
Worn or grinding brake linings	Replace or rinse brake pads
Incomplete fit of overlays to drum in the rear brake mechanisms	Clean protruding places at the lining. Replace pads if necessary
Disability in the combination of vacuum hose	Restore the tightness of the compound
Filter 14 contaminated (see Fig. 8.2) of the vacuum brake amplifier	Rinse the filter or replace new
Torn the diaphragm 7 or 8 (see Fig. 8.2) of the vacuum brake amplifier	Replace diaphragm
Sealing cuffs 13 (see Fig. 8.2) Vacuum brake amplifier do not provide tightness	Replace cuffs and clean the cylindrical work surfaces of the valve and connector housing
Violation of tightness in the cover of the cover 6 (see Fig. 8.2) with a housing 11 of the vacuum amplifier	Restore tightness
Violation of tightness in connecting a vacuum amplifier with the main cylinder case	Replace the sealing ring 12 (see Fig. 8.2)
The failure of the vacuum amplifier as a result of the ingress of the brake fluid into the cavity of the vacuum amplifier	Replace the main cylinder sealing cuffs, remove the liquid from the amplifier and replace the diaphragm
Brake mechanisms
Ovality or bias of the working surface of the brake drums of the rear wheels	Crowind brake drums assembled with the hub or replace with new
Breakdown springs disk brake pads	Replace brake pads (see<Замена колодок тормозных механизмов передних колес>)
Wearing fingershooting of the front wheel brake mechanism	Replace guide fingers (see
Wear holes under the guide fingers at the base of the brake brake	Replace base
To keep the car requires a lot of effort on the handle of the parking brake
Shining cables in guide shells	Disconnect the cables, clean from dirt, lubricate the cables and their lubricant connections<Лига>
Milling overlays of rear brake mechanisms	Rinse overlays or replace pads with lining
The parking brake is incorrectly adjusted	<Регулировка привода стояночного тормоза>)
Large stroke of the parking brake drive lever
The big free course of the locked station of the parking brake in the brake mechanisms of the rear wheels	Adjust the parking brake drive (see<Регулировка привода стояночного тормоза)
Heating brake drums when moving without braking
Incorrect adjustment of the location of the parking brake drive	Adjust the parking brake drive
Reduced level of brake fluid in the tank of the main brake cylinder in the absence of outer leaks in the hydraulic industry
Wearing or swelling of the outer cuff 8 (see Fig. 8.3) of the main brake cylinder	Remove the main brake cylinder and replace the cuff. Pour from the cover 6 (see Fig. 8.2) of the vacuum amplifier brake fluid

Clutch

Possible clutch malfunctions, their causes and solutions:

Cause of malfunction

Remedy

Incomplete clutch shutdown (clutch "leads")
Insufficient complete clutch pedal	Adjust the clutch shutdown drive
Boxing of the slave disk (elder beating of more than 0.5 mm)	Straighten or replace the disk
The hub of the slave disk on the slots of the primary shaft	Clean the slots, rinse White Spirit. When wearing slots, replace the primary shaft or driven disk
Dissue or push disc warning	Replace the clutch casing in an eye with a pressure disk and spring
Weakening rivets or breakdown of spicial linings of the slave disk	Replace the lining, check the braid disk
Clutch Drive Cable Wiring	Replace cable
Incomplete inclusion of adhesion (clutch "dropping")
Increased wear or burning of narrow disk friction linings	Replace friction linings or slave disk assembly
Damage or jamming of clutch shutdown drive
Jerk
Sweeping of the friction linings of the slave disk, surfaces of the flywheel and pressure disk	Wash the White Spirit thoroughly overlooked surfaces, replace worn or damaged gearbox and engine oil. Check out the absence of oil leaks through the fastening bolts of the flywheel; In the presence of leaks, install the bolts on the sealant, as indicated in the subsection "Engine assembly"
Congestion in the clutch shutdown drive	Eliminate the causes causing jamming. Replace damaged details
Surface damage or push disc	Replace the clutch cover assembly with a pressure disk
Increased noise when inclusion of clutch
Breakdown of the damped disc springs	Replace the slave disk assembly
Increased noise when the clutch is turned off
Wear, damage, leakage of lubricant from the clutch shutdown bearing	Replace Bearing

Ignition module

There are several typical signs that directly indicate problems with the ignition module:

1. single engine stroke floats.

2. Periodically, the motor traction disappears.

3. The car is very slowly gaining the rotation of the motor during acceleration.

4. Cylinders cease to work in pairs.

Note that the same signs indicate the fault of wires of type of explosives and candles of the vehicle ignition system, so at the beginning, you should check them, and if everything is in order with them, then replace the ignition module.

Benzonasosa

- Auto does not start

A possible cause can be non-working, or semi working fuel pump. The gas station should create a certain pressure in the fuel system for normal operation. But not only the fuel pump can serve as a malfunction, in any case, the first thing you need to measure pressure in the fuel ramp, check the spark and already make the appropriate conclusions. More information can be found here.

- The fuel pump does not "buzz" after turning the ignition key

Here most likely the case is already licking in the wiring to the fuel pump. An individual article is devoted to this issue.

- Engine interruptions

- Car twitching on a small go

Again, the fuel pump itself can be in order, here a challenge can be a low cleaning filter (mesh) under the fuel pump.

Starter

1. Sliding the coupling of the free move

Generator

Relay-regulator

To check the regulator Call assistant. It is necessary that he started the engine, bringing the turnover to 3000. In this case, turn on the dimensions of the distant light, the rear window heater and the stove. Make the voltage tester on the battery, the value of which must be more than 13.2 V (for generator 9402.3701), or 13.6 V (for generator 37.3701).

If the voltage is much lower than this value, this may occur due to the malfunction of the generator windings (cluster, closure), the relay controller, or the lack of contact due to the oxidation on the excitation winding rings.

An indirect manner malfunction of the relay controller can be defined if you turn on the far light by turning off the other consumers. For this purpose, a voltage measurement should be made, whose indicators should be 13.2 or 13.6 V.

More reliable method for determining the performance of the regulator with a generator shot or a relay controller. You need a control lamp of 12V, which should be connected between the brushes. Next, you should simultaneously submit a direct current with a voltage of 12V from the power supply, which is suitable for it, connecting the plus to the "D +" terminal, and minus on the mass of the car.

After that, the lamp lights should occur. If you smoothly increase the voltage to 16 in it should go out. Otherwise, the regulator will need to be replaced. If the brand of your generator 37.3701, plus from the source with a constant voltage, connect to the contacts "B" and "B", minus for mass.

Gates (rectifier block) generator

To check it for you enough to use the battery and the control light. You need to connect a plus ankb using a control light on the contact of the "B +" generator (for the generator 37.3701, to the "30" contact), and minus on the body. If the lamp is on, it means there is a short circuit or a breakdown in the block of valves (positive and negative).

To make sure that the plus valves block are well-connected using the control lamp of the battery plus to contacts ("B" or "30"), and a minus on any phase winding. If the light is caught fire, then one of the valves breaks through.

How to check the VAZ 2115 generator of negative valves (diodes) can be connected via a lamp of any phase winding with a mass (generator body). If the lamp is burning, it means that there is a closure of the generator body with a stator winding or one of the valves breaks. You can use (Ommeter) to check, but for this you need to disconnect any diode contact.

Replacing the rectifier block is better assembly and in a car repair shop.

Pumps

Water pump plays an important role in the life of the engine. Thanks to the pump, the coolant (coolant) can be freely circulated on the cooling system, thus removing the temperature from the heated engine parts. Faulty water pump can lead to overheating of the engine and completely output. In order to prevent such a need to follow the state of the pump and its efficiency. Faulty water pump makes itself felt in such symptoms: leakage in the area of \u200b\u200bthe gland.

Buzz during work. Bad circulation of coolant. Increase engine temperature.

Falling level of coolant To make sure that the pump is defective, spend a few simple tests: warm the motor to the operating temperature, then squeeze the top hose. If you feel that the liquid in the system continues to circulate, we can conclude that the water pump is working. Listen, if the pump is not buzzing, if the hum is felt, most likely dies. It is better not to wait when it happens and replace the pump to avoid big trouble.

I recently replaced the pump as it failed, what I understood on the speaking sounds. Today I want to tell you how to replace the water pump VAZ 2110 with your own hands without removing the drive of the generator. 1. First of all, I decided to remove the adsorber for the convenience of performing work without turning off the wires and hoses.

2. Next, it is necessary to remove the plastic casing with the engine, as well as the timing belt cover. 3. Now take the jack and subdominate the right side of the car, your task to post the front right wheel. This is done in order to set all the tags.

For convenience, I decided to make one mark with the help of white paint, in the future, believe me, it was very useful. 4. I wish I did not want to remove the wheel anyway I had to. K.

It was necessary to access the lower bolt of fastening plastic casing. 5. In excellent condition, therefore it makes no sense to change it.

In addition, I decided to try to replace the pump without removing the generator drive belt. As it turned out, it was a good idea that allowed to save a bunch of time. 6. However, the plastic casing, and with it and pulleys with the camshaft rollers still had to remove. To do this, we need to loosen the tension rollers, then remove the timing belt from them. 7.

Next, it is necessary to fill with something flat gears of camshafts in order to unscrew them. Be careful, the teeth are pretty soft. 8. When the pulleys are dismantled, you need to unscrew the actual plastic casing itself.

An unpleasant moment is that one bolt of fastening will need to be unscrewed in the bottom, through the space near the wheel. Now we can say that we reached the pump. 9. Water pump VAZ 2110 is attached to three fastening bolts under the hexagon. Unscrew them, after which it is slightly tapping on its body try to pull out.

10. Substitute the dishes for the coolant and be careful not to lie. 11. Take a new pump VAZ 2110 and make sure that it has a sufficient amount of lubrication. In addition, I recommend to apply a thin layer of sealant if you have a paper laying. Let him get sick.

Tradition assembly is made in reverse order. Install the water pump into place. Put the plastic casing. Secure the camshaft pulleys at their places. Dress the timing belt. According to the previously applied marks on the camshaft, align and dress the timing belt.

Turn the engine to the wheel, adjust the correct stretch and belt position. When everything is installed in the result of antifreeze (or any other cooling fluid), and you can check the operation. Replacing the water pump took me 3 hours of time, everything works fine, fault is eliminated.

It is impossible to say that the VAZ 2114 is a very modern, filled car with electronics. However, the list of sensors used, which are associated with the electronic control unit, the fourteenth is quite impressive.

Each of these devices is responsible for certain functions, collects data transmitted to the main computer of the car. So the ECU controls the entire process, makes appropriate changes, from which the driver does not have to look for the causes of refusal or not enough effective work of a node.

List of devices

Sensors are needed in order to report the performance of systems, signaling the level of cooling fluids, oil, prevent or prevent emergency situations.

These small devices, despite their sizes, play an incredible role in the performance of the machine. Therefore, it will not be superfluous to know which sensors are on your car.

We list the main ones present in the VAZ 2114 systems. To this list, we will assign sensors:

Oil pressure;

Coolant temperature;

Coolant level in the expansion tank;

Bulk air flow rate;

Idling engine;

Level of brake fluid in the system;

Position of the camshaft (it is called the phase sensor);

Air temperature overboard;

Road cloth irregularities.

This list is very and very extensive. But even on this, the owners of the VAZ 2114 do not want to stop, which is why several more different sensors are introduced into the system:

• Light devices;
• Reverse;
• Device, signing open doors;
• Brake shoe wear index, etc.

Where they are?

But to know about their availability in your car VAZ 2114 - little. In case of malfunctions, when the electronic control unit receives incorrect data from signaling devices, they have to be changed.

If neither twist, each sensor, which stopped properly function, transmit correct data on the state of the systems to the electronic control unit is to be replaced. Almost all sensors are not more than a few hundred rubles. But even low cost and small dimensions are not an indicator of the unnecessaryness of these devices. Change devices in a timely manner.

To do this, you need to understand how to get to one or another sensor. Therefore, we suggest you familiarize yourself with the location of key alarm and measurement devices.

Each sensor has its own strictly designated place. After studying the sites of their location, you can freely replace the devices in case of breakdown or faults.

Some measuring and signaling devices are literally located on the surface, therefore it is not necessary to carry out additional dismantling work. To get to others, you will have to be seriously angry in your VAZ 2114, it is not a small part of the details.

The integrity of your car, the safety of the driver, passengers and all other participants in the road depends on their performance. Therefore, treat the sensors with appropriate respect, watch their condition and change it in time when such a need has occurred.

I will begin today's article with a story about what kind of detonation sensor (DD) is and for which it is needed by the car engine. This sensor is necessary, as it is already clear from the title, in order to monitor detonation in the engine, as well as knocks, which indicate faults.

Each knock causes the sensor to produce a pulse from a certain voltage. After that, the pulse goes to the controller, which makes subsequent processing. The controller regulates depending on the value of the resulting pulse, the entire process takes the fragments of seconds, so most often we simply cannot feel anything.

Where is the detonation sensor?

The detonation sensor VAZ 2114-2115 is located between the second and third cylinder on the engine block, it can be single or two-contact.

Signs of detonation sensor malfunction VAZ 2114-2115:

• Dynamics worsen, bad overclocking
• During the start and when driving under the hill, "Check Eningen" lights up
• During overclocking light bulb ""
• The computer issues a detonation sensor error.

To your attention the detonation sensor error VAZ 2114

• Error code 0325. - There is an opening of the wiring that feeds the power to DD. Most often, the reason for this error was the oxidized contact of the detonation sensor, the wiring break occurs extremely rarely. You need to clean the contacts, it will give a positive result, at least there will be no worse. In addition, this error can be caused by a timing belt, so that if after cleaning the contacts of DD, the problem remained - most likely he jumped into a pair of teeth. Place the belt on the labels and again check if the error does not appear.
• Error code 0328. - As a rule, says. However, it is impossible to exclude the probability of leakage of the timing belt.
• Error code 0326., as well as 0327 - Mean an excessively weak (low) signal from the detonation sensor. To resolve errors, it is necessary to clean the contacts of the connection of DD VAZ 2114. It is also important to tighten the sensor, in the case of weak tightening, the above errors may appear.

How to check the detonation sensor VAZ 2114-2115

• Prepare the end to "13" or "22" (depending on the type of sensor).
• Multimeter or Voltmeter.
• Screwdriver.

Sequencing:

1. Remove the sensor from the engine block.
2. Turn on the voltmeter or multimeter into operation mode with a 200 mV limit.
3. Connect the multimeter electrodes to the detonation sensor outputs, then with a screwdriver, knock on the part of the part.
4. During the tapping, observe changes on the table of the device, depending on the strength and frequency strength, the voltmeter readings should change. If the readings of your detonation sensor do not change - it is defective, and it must be replaced.

VAZ detonation sensors are two types:

1. Resonant (performed in the form of a barrel).
2. Broadband (performed in the form of a tablet).

These sensors are completely different, so before buying a detonation sensor on the VAZ 2114 or 2115, check which one you are installed.

I recommend to watch a video about how to check the home detonation sensor:

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