Installing the GBC. Repair of the head of the cylinder block from "A" to "Ya. The process of removal and installation

the main / KPP

Cylinder cylinder head or head - this is an integral part of the cylinder piston Engine internal combustion anyone vehicle. The importance of this part is difficult to overestimate, as it is the main corpus element of the engine to which other components are attached.

Like all mechanisms, the engine is also subject to natural wear and other different damage. Therefore, the repair of the head of the cylinder block is inevitable.

However, what kind of repair is elected - resuscitation or full replacement Details - will directly depend on the degree of complexity of damage.

Causes of replacement

Usually, the basis for changing the head of the engine cylinder block is its deformation or malfunction due to numerous chemical and physical processes.

The main factors contributing to the failure of the GBC are:

engine overheating;
external leak of engine oil or coolant;
errosive (mechanical abrasion), corrosive (oxidation) and abrasive (destroying friction surface) wear details;
exhaustion of the working resource;
burnout of the cylinder valve saddle;
cracks;
oil or gas entering the cooling system;
defect of gasket.

In this video, you will tell you what signs of the fume gBC pads.

It is worth noting that regardless of the type of repair, the gasket in the CCC will have to be changed to the new one in any case, since it is designed for one-time application. Before each analysis of the head of the block, you need to accurately install true cause Violations in the functioning of the mechanism.

Tools

To work on the removal and replacement of the head of the cylinder block, like any kind of car repair, need special tools and certain locksmith skills. In addition, it is not necessary to do without manuals on the maintenance of the repaired engine model.

The mandatory list of instruments for removing and repairing the engine cylinders includes:

spanners;
screwdrivers;
passatia;
mandrel for pressing oil recovery caps and sleeves;
micrometer for guide valves and sleeves;
scan to deploy new sleeves;
power planet to rack the head before pressing the sleeves;
valve fixation device;
zenkera La Restoration Sadls of valves or reign of their geometry;
device for ticking valve springs.

Sometimes, mostly with a cracked GBC, do not do without argon welding. Having everything required tools You can proceed directly to the disassembly process, which consists of preceding events and the actual dismantling itself.

It is worth noting that by virtue of construction differences in models and modifications of motors, the technique of disassembling the motor and its parts will be different, although the general principle and the process algorithm still remains.

Preparation of dismantling

In this video, you will show you how to quickly remove the head of the cylinder block.

Remove rechargeable battery And disconnect the ignition wires.
Merge motor oil and coolant.
Disable the hoses going to the engine - vacuum, cooling system and others.
Mark the wires and hoses to facilitate the further assembly of the cylinder.
Remove the fuel lines and the accelerator cable.
Remove everything hinged equipmentMinding the head removal.

Technology disassembly

Remove the decorative engine casing.
Remove the front cover of the timing cover with the extraction of the coolant hose to the throttle node from the clamps.
To diagnose the seal camshaft.
Using the key number 10, unscrew the cylinder cap bolts and remove the scheme accordingly.
Examine the state of the bolts.
Squeeze the lid locks and remove the timing casing.
Disconnect the block with wires from the phase sensor by compressing the springs of the retainer and pull in the direction.
Disconnect high voltage wiresBy pulling them over the tip up.
With the help of the passage to squeeze the ends of the clamp fixed by the hose of the main crankcase ventilation loop, and move it along the hose.
Remove the hose from the nozzle.
On the reverse side of the CFC toilize the hose of the idle contour, the crankcase ventilation system.
Unscrew 15 mounting bolts.
Remove sealing rubber rings in the roof ducts.
Remove the cover of the GBC from the landing place.
Remove the gasket under the lid.
Clean and degrease the cylinder cylinders and block.
Conduct needed repair work - repair of nodes, mechanisms and CFC, replacement of gasket and heads of BC, etc.

We will also be diagnosed with a tightness head with special computer equipment.

By the way, the removal of the GBC can be carried out in the presence of professional knowledge. However, for the reliability and quality of repair, it is still better to contact the profile specialists.

Especially since the price in the regions is not significantly different from Moscow. The main cost of working with the GBC will directly depend on the type of car. For instance, domestic auto It will cost 2500 rubles, a foreign car - in 6000 rubles, and an SUV - 8500 rubles.

Removing the GBC is carried out in a strict sequence. To do this, you can pre-make a written action plan. The installation of the GBC should be carried out in reverse order preceding actions.
In order to avoid breaks of keys during the promotion of the bolts of the fastening of the GBC before the start of the process, they are better clean.
To facilitate the removal of the cylinder head, you can use a flat screwdriver, carefully pushed the CAP cover.
Accept with the sealing gasket must be extremely careful to avoid its damage and not lead to loss of tightness.
Removing a new gasket CHC should be immediate before it is installed.
When used in the work of sandpaper, the dust remaining from it must be thoroughly removed from the surfaces of the GBC and other parts.

Thus, with proper removal of the head of the cylinder block, the mechanism is guaranteed to last faith and the truth for a long time.

The breakdown in the cylinder block is a serious reason for stopping the operation of the car before replacing the defective part. If the reasons for which the GBC needs to be dismantled, then it is necessary to carry out this in the maximum possible conditions so that the dirt does not get into the cylinders. In order to know how to remove the head of the cylinder block, sometimes not enough to look into the manual, so there are additional articles that describe in detail the procedure.

The reasons for which the replacement of the GBC may be required.

The most common cause in which the removal of the head is required is to change the gasket of the GBC. In addition to the planned procedure, urgent diagnostics and removal of the head of the cylinder blocks can be required during suspected. The item is dripped into specialized centers that have the necessary diagnostic equipment.

Another common cause of the replacement of the GBC is the engine overheating. A single strong "boiling" of the engine can lead mainly only to the failure of the head itself. Worse, if overheating is small and will be maintained for a long time. Regular overheating will lead not only to the failure of the GBC itself, but also can cause cracking of steel liners in the seats of valves, as well as engine deformation.

Preliminary preparation of all necessary tools will save time when dismantling the mechanism. For removal, you will need:

Flat screwdriver.
Tara for coolant and engine oil.
Lubes.
Pliers.
A hammer.
Caucasics.

Also, the masters recommend to have a dynamometer key. The tool is used mainly only when installing the GBC, but sometimes it may be needed when removing. Since all car models have their own characteristics, it is better to find a manual in advance according to a certain car.

Stages of work

Removing the head of the cylinder block involves the conduct of preparatory work:

First of all, you must disconnect the terminal from the battery.
In the presence of a decorative lid of plastic, it is necessary to dismantle it. Also, if there is a crankcase protection, it is better to remove it.
Next, fluids are merged into different containers, disconnect nozzles and other wires. If the oil is recommended to drain on a hot motor, then the rest of the actions are better to carry out when the engine is already cooling.
For more free access to the engine, experienced masters recommend removing the battery.
The drive belt should be loosen, and the power steering pump is turned off. After weakening the belt, you can remove the bar that holds it, and the generator takes to the side to increase the space around the engine.
Since in the cylinders there is a phased compression, combustion, release and intake of the gas mixture, it is important to establish a piston to a certain position. It is best for this purpose that the position of VMT will fit.
Next, it is necessary to discover the harness of the wires and take it to the side.
Removal air filter. In addition to the filter itself, it is necessary to remove its body and timing belt. When the belt is removed, it is necessary to start dismantling the pulley of the camshaft. The pulley must be fixed with one scrolling to prevent scrolling, and the second remove the part.
Hope and DZ controller connectors need to be disconnected from electrical wiring.
The air pipe that brings gas, you need to disconnect from DPDP and dismantle it.
The electromagnetic valve is disconnected from the system and is fixed in a reliable place.
Next, you need to disconnect the hoses that are responsible for the fuel supply.
All sensors are turned off, and the remaining nozzles are removed and postponed in a reliable place.
After all the attached parts were completely dismantled, you can proceed to dismantle the armored wires and their movement in a separate place.
Next, the bolt is unscrewed, which is responsible for holding the tube-inlet bracket. Using the end key, the upper bolts can be unscrewed.
Next, the reception tube is discharged from the collector.

In the next step, it is necessary to unscrew the mounts that fix the head directly to the cylinder block. Bolts are better to unscrew gradually. In the first two times, the discerning occurs on the floor turnover of the thread.

All fasteners should be dismantled evenly, therefore it is better to use a torque wrench. The sequence must accurately follow to prevent motor deformation. You can find out the outlook of the twisting in the manual attached to the car.

After the bolts were unscrewed, the GBC dismantled. Depending on the manipulations that will be conducted with the head of the block, the part can be dismantled with an exhaust manifold and an inlet tube.

The head of the cylinder block (GBC) is one of the most important nodes. car Engine. From how it is installed and adjusted, the operation of the motor, its stability, reliability and efficiency depends on.

In our article we will tell how quickly and without special spending to independently install the head of the cylinder block on the VAZ family cars.

The first condition is correct and reliable installation GBC. - It is the purity of the landing place. Carefully clean the plane of the block on which the GBC is placed. Cleaning is first carried out by a sharp object, and then with special car cleaning agents that will help remove the residues of antimony, oil.

Note special attention On the holes in which the studs are screwed. They fall into them, water, garbage. And then, when the GBC is attracted by stiletto to the block, they can make microcracks in the cylinder block due to the fact that when screwing the studs, excessive pressure is formed. When the motor is heated through these microcracks, produce gases, gases are trying to lay the gasket between the GBC and the block, and the water from the cooling system will go to the oil. Overhaul The engine is provided! And this is at best. Therefore, it is recommended to thoroughly check the holes before screwing the studs and be sure to get into it, taking a clean rag and using a screwdriver to get to the bottom.

When the location for the cylinder head is cleaned, proceed to the installation. Installation of GBC begins with proper Installation Gaskets, which is located between the GBC and the cylinder block.

The block holes must clearly coincide with the laying holes, only in this case its installation is considered correct.

And the head of the cylinder block should be well cleaned from nagar, dirt, oil, toosol. If there are suspicions that the GBC was overheated or other exposure, which led to deformation, then it is checked on a special device and then, if necessary, polished.

When installing the GBC, it happens that the gasket "moves", so follow it.

The GBC is considered to be established in place when she "stood up" on the guides, and the hoses, wires do not interfere. After that, start the screwing procedure. In order not to confuse the bolts, they need to be labeled in advance. The inner bolts are smeared by oil, so they are difficult to confuse with outdoor, it will be a kind of tag.

If you do not have a pneumatic or power tool, you can fasten the GBC bolts to the old, kind knocker.

The bolts are only intimidated by the bolts, but do not finally be delayed, there is a special, dynamometric key. Only with it will control the correct tightening moment, which is recommended by the manufacturer.

The second moment of the tightening should not exceed 8 kg. The order of the tightening remains unchanged, from the center to the edges, in pairs. After the bolts are tightened by 8 kg, we carry out two trust, both 90 °. First we pass the bolts for the first time, turning the dynamometer key 90 °, then the second time.

After the final tightening, the head of the cylinder block is considered mechanically installed, but not yet working. So that it turns out to be a worker, it is necessary to connect all the "perfyri", i.e. Hoses, nozzles, and so on. It is recommended immediately to return to it to it, connect the temperature sensor wire and set the timing tag.

After proceeding with the installation of valve glasses. Before installing, they are necessarily cleaned from dirt and lubricated. Clean and blurred glasses should easily become in place.

In order not to confuse the sequence of planting glasses, removing them, they are positioned in a certain order. After installing the glasses, be sure to smear the "bed" to which the camshaft will then fall.

Something useful for you:

The lubricated and pure camshaft is placed in place. You can fix it immediately with the gland. Experienced locksmiths in order to simplify the process of setting camshaft marks, sometimes the Dedovsky method is still used. During the installation of the camshaft, the first and third camshaft neck must look at you.

Then we set the camshaft cover. Lubricate the places where the camshaft will lie (bed), and do not forget about one nuance. At the ends, you need to remove the old sealant, and put a new one, then it will be well kept oil.

By setting the second part of the cover, repeat the process. Now I'm caught in nuts, and do not forget about the washers that should be under each nut.

The tightening torque of the camshaft caps should not exceed three kilograms. Experienced repairmen over time can produce tightening process without a dynamometer key. Then the tin protective cover is placed.

Then we put the gear camshaft, but before that make sure that you have not forgotten to put on the camshaft, which holds the gear from scrolling.

Bolt firmly fix the gear in its place. Be sure to make sure that the labels on the gear and CFC coincide.

Then we throw the timing belt, but it is recommended to put a tension roller. Install a special washer in front of the roller. You should not forget that the video is not worth tightening to the "madness", it should be bludging freely on the rod.

When dressing the timing belt, do not forget to check the coincidence of labels on the gear of the camshaft and on the crankshaft. When the timing belt is dressed, by twisting tensioner roller We achieve the desired belt stretch.

After tensioning to the desired indicator (the belt turns around its axis by 90 °), we tighten the smoothly control nut.

The next tribler, which needs to be properly installed in the grooves. It is necessary that after installing a traver in the grooves, the alignment of shafts was observed. Between the rubber and the GBC we mount the fuel pump, without forgetting to lubricate it with a sealant. So that the rod does not run into camshaft, it needs to squeeze a screwdriver. The housing of the gas station drive hexagon is dragged.

By pressing the housing with a slightly hexagon, I am intimidating the nuts and attract evenly. Then we already tighten the "seriously" hexagon. We establish a finally a rubber, which we have just tried out. Do not forget about sealant, which will exclude the leakage of the oil. Do not forget about the bar on which there is a ignition timing, because after starting the motor, it is possible to need to adjust the traver. We once again check the connection of wires and pipes, which forgot, connect.

Latest Barcode - Installation valve cover and leather belt timing. After the end of all works and checks, do not forget to fasten the cable throttle valve. GBC installed and ready to work.

Video: Installation of GBC VAZ. Step-by-step instruction

Check your car and model repair manual. It describes step-by-step procedures with images that explain how to replace the head gasket. The manual will also describe all the necessary tools that you may need.

Drain all the oil and coolant from the engine. Remove those details that are located at the top of the head laying. Read the service manual of your car, but in most cases this procedure includes the removal of the exhaust manifold, the intake manifold, the valve cover and drive belts. On many engines, you will need to remove the toothed belt or chain of the gas distribution mechanism. Try to explore the timing strap or chain alignment procedures and make sure that you clearly see the alignment label before dismantling the synchronization components.

Learn how to remove each detail. Or take a picture and write down to be easier to remember as soon as you finish.
The gasket is a thin piece of sealing material that can be seen as soon as you remove the head.
Check the block to make sure that it has not happened straightening and send the head or head into the car mechanically shop so that they are tested under pressure. If the pressure test does not show crack, let the mechanical workshop restore the head. Never try to reinstall the heads of the cylinder block, which was not professionally restored.
- Check in the service manual of the head specification to find out if you need to replace the bolts when the head laying will be replaced.
- Clean the head and block surface. Do not scratch and do not damage any metal parts, as it can prevent this head laying tightly.
  
  Clean the holes for the bolts that fix the head in the block.
  
  Install the head laying on the block. Use the sealant specified by the manufacturer and only the desired number in certain places. The deviation from the manufacturer's recommendations may damage the internal parts of the engine.
  
  Install the block with a head laying in place.
  
  Use the targeted wrench to tighten the head to the block. Check out the service manual to determine the bolt head, as well as the number of revolutions that should be applied to each step. Some head bolts require three steps plus a rotation on a certain amount of degrees at the end.
  
  Replace other engine components that you removed.
  
  Set the drivebelt of the gas distribution mechanism or circuit back to the proper position, gently rotating camshaft and crankshaft. Make sure that the engine does not interfere with anything. If there is something there, there is a very specific method that consists in turning and setting the camshaft on the crankshaft so as not to damage and not bend the valves! If possible, install the distributor so that it properly approached each cylinder. If necessary, adjust the valve clearance by following the manual.
  
  Pour the new oil into the engine, replace oil filter And fill in the cooling system with a new factory agent. When you start the engine, make sure the engine works on idling on the full power. It is necessary that the cooling system can drive all air bubbles. Some engines require a special air intake procedure in the cooling system, we recommend reading this separately.

(1L) 1991 - 1999

information is suitable for repair and other cars.

Completed components:
gybz gasket and bolt set

gaskets of the graduation manifold and fasteners

fasteners of supports RV, Oil RV, MSK, Mounting Cap

vugovsky MSK (Large)

So, some pictures about how I did .. I will note only some moments, it seems important to me.
Eating heads with collectors, the occupation is pretty simple and fast. The only "stopper" is the removal of the favorite fastening of the receiving pipe. When lifting the GBC from the block, you need to be prepared for the fact that it is heavy (+ collectors). Better in two, but did it as usual. Before the removal from the block, the RV and GK was removed from the GBC. So more convenient, it is easier to keep the RV gear for unscrewing. It was also "reset" oil and antifreeze. Having chop up the GBC and study the block of cylinders:

Armed with M-shaped hexagon on "6" (19 cm long, unscrew the intake manifold. Bolts are fed reluctantly, especially inside. What we observe after the removal:

Strikes, in which the rubber seal has turned (ring), more precisely its throughput:

We observe the shells on the landing plane of the GBC:

Before watching "Zutikov" it is better to start watering the nuts of the exhaust manifold WD-40 (or similar means) in order to begin the process of oscillation. The view of the plates of the valves is quite "mysterious", but this will be explained (IMHO) later:

In fact, the exhaust manifold, in my case, starred is much easier than intake. The supposed nuts twisted together with the poles from the CCC very easily. I did not even expect.
Before drumming, we put something under the valve:

Be sure to insert the GK GK "Glass" made from a plastic bottle (God saved), we guide the long head on the valve plate and a slight blow we are wrapped with a lumpy plate from crackers:

We take a standard dismumbering from the VAZ 2108. We are slightly calculating its work part around the circumference (so that it goes to the well of the GC), drill two holes (right and left of the regular 10-15 mm.) It will be more convenient for work. We rearrange the working focus to the desired hole (depends on the valve) and dismider:

The type of ink valves leads to another horror:

Similar disgusting (coke) is present in the valve chamber:

After removing all the valves found that in the 2nd and 3rd cylinder, there were fewer in inlet valves (why ???). But the 1st and 4th were very "overgrown", perhaps on it they passed a smaller amount of mixture into the cylinder, and the exhaust valve in these "pots" were bright. My assumption, if not right - correct, criticism is welcome:

To remove MSC, use a domestic collet film with a reverse hammer:

Another horror is koksom MSK (all such were):

We repair the epoxy adhesive of the rods in the plane of the GBC under a tee and intake manifold. Depth and sizes are also impressive:

Before screwing the studs and collector bolts, run the thread by the tank:

After that, new studs are easily screwed up with hand to the end of the thread. We take two wrenches from the fastening of the covers of the RV supports (they will not need them anymore, because according to the technology they need to be changed on new), contaminated on the hairpin and finally (I got about 180 *):

By the way, the hairpins with nuts of the graduate manifold turned out of the GBC of this rather.
We apply a slightly non-stick paste on the studs, and gaskets from the manifold by Majm "in greater":

Manifold nuts tighten into 3-4 receptions on a spiral circuit, starting with any internal. For example: Nizhn2-Upper2-Upper3-lower3-lower1-Upper1-Upper4-lower4. The collector is set:

We are preparing to install the intake manifold. In the photo, an old seal is present for clarity:

When tightening, we use the same spiral scheme:

Many conversations O. bolts GBC., put old or new. In the photo is new in the center. The thread is elongated above spouting into the block, i.e. With the twist of old back there will be no problems, but I chose all the same new bolts:

For tightening bolts, we use two keys: dynamometric and simple knot (so as not to rape with the first). We put before our eyes the tightening scheme and guided by the moment of tightening, without smoking, pull the "head":

To install the GBC (especially alone), the spirit of old bolts "smoke" hats, cutting the slot and screw in the front extreme holes of the block. Two small pin-guides on the block from the back are not very inspired by confidence (especially when the reservoirs). We put a new gasket and tighten the GBC:

Another moment, when installing the cover of the 1st support of the RV, it is desirable to apply on the surface of contact with the support in front of a bit of a bit of sealant:

That's it was like that.

The evening ride that I noticed - the typewriter became more difficult to react much, as if rising on acceleration. Those. Now with passengers, as before "empty". The reason for this I consider cleaning the chambers of the inlet valves and the valve themselves. The mixture was "easier" to enter the cylinders, in the desired volume. Coke has been squeezed with pieces of peas. And this is despite the fact that in January and the second time two weeks before disassembly, I used Vinovskaya Zipie from the "beer" cans for cleaning the combustion chambers and valves. True, if you look at the photo after removing the intake manifold inside almost glitters. Before installing new MSK, checked the flavor of the valves in the guides. All eight amounted to 0.6 to 0.7 mm., What is far from a critical level. Valve did not silence, view contact surfaces I am not advocated to this. Spent money and time do not regret, as I think that simple replacement MSC, without cleaning the valves and their cameras would give a much smaller effect.

Supplement from: Balivar

Two days ago, I realized the same thing, adding another replacement of piston rings.

According to the symptoms, it was: from the spring began to wait for the oil (made an approximately liter per 10,000), the collector (then the rubber ring) was reduced, the antifreeze was in the first cylinder (white blooming on the candle), and the motor was 350 thousand already. I didn't do the pictures.

Operations:

1. I was more convenient to remove collectors on the engine, and then remove the head without it. The final at the same time remains hanging on the receiving pipe, and there is no hemor of the pipe fastening brackets. When installing, used the mirror for screwing 2 middle bolts of the intake manifold.

2. MSK removed the passats. "Twisted" very easily. The main thing is not to pull stupidly up.

3. The heads of the collector changed, the studs - no. Only drove all threads.

4. What has taken out the pistons - did not regret. In the grooves was Koksa be healthy. In addition, in the grooves mastery rings Were tightly clogged holes for the flow of oil. Did a 4-graded tillage silent. With new rings there is a noticeably less smoke from the oil refined neck with an engine running.

5. changed the glands of the crankshaft, camshafts and woven along the play

6. So, for information. Machine in Russia since 2003. I am the first owner after the German. I do not know what was poured into her in Germany, but I went to Mobil1 Synthetic all the time. In the summer of 5W-40, in winter 0W-40. Replacement every 10TKM. Mileage in Russia - 175 TCM.

P.S. And the report is cool. Before you climb into your engine, I studied like that. First of all, in terms of ergonomics ... And then it happens like what and what to do, and then the key can not be able to go or the item rests and does not remove ...

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