How to make a radio controlled car. Assembling the radio-controlled car yourself! Do-it-yourself radio-controlled car

1. Introduction
2. Types of car models
3. Internal combustion engine versus Electro. Comparison.

5. Batteries
6. Fuel
7. Body models
8. List of necessary things

1. Introduction

So, you are interested in radio-controlled car models. Whether it's a model with an internal combustion engine (ICE) or a model with an electric motor, this article will help you determine what you prefer, understand some of the general principles of the model and radio control, and buy everything you need for further operation.

First, let's take a look at the different types of car models.

2. Types of car models

Radio controlled car models can be classified as follows:

• by scale (size): 1:12, 1:10, 1: 8
• by engine type: ICE (or nitro) (engine internal combustion) or Electro (electric motor)
• by chassis type: Road, Formula 1, Buggy, Truck, Monster trucks (or Monsters)

Let's look at everything in order:

Scale

The scale of the model is designated as for example 1:10 (or 1/10). The most common scales are 1:10 and 1: 8. The 1:12 scale is getting pretty rare. The 1:18 scale (very popular among conventional, bench car models) is gaining popularity, new models of both road cars and monsters appear in it.

There are also 1:24 and 1:28 scales in which the Japanese firm Kyosho makes the Mini-Z series, but these scales are approximate, they are indicated as an average for the series.
And finally, at the other extreme - scale 1: 5 - these are huge cars (about a meter long) with gasoline engines.

ICE (left) and electric motor. The proportions are not met! Usually the electric motor is much smaller than the internal combustion engine.

engine's type

Engines on the models are as follows: Internal combustion engine (ICE, also the term Nitro is used) and Electric motors.
Internal combustion engines (in the picture on the left) run on a mixture of methanol, nitromethane and oil. This fuel is sold in canisters at model stores. It is better to use high quality branded fuel so that the engine works well and lasts a long time. ICEs are divided into classes according to their working volume:

Grade 12 (2.11cc) - 1:10 scale road models
15th grade (2.5cc) - 1:10 road models, buggies, trucks, monsters 1:10
18th grade (3.0 cc) - buggies, trucks, monsters 1:10
21st class (3.5cc) - road 1: 8, buggies and monsters 1: 8
25th class (4.1 cc) - buggies and monsters 1: 8

The name of the classes comes from the American classification of volume in cubic inches. So, for example, the 15th class means that the engine volume is 0.15 cubic meters. inch. When converted to cubic centimeters, it turns out: 0.15 * 2.543 = 2.458 cubic meters. cm, i.e. about 2.5.

The higher the class, the larger the engine displacement, the higher the power. For example: the power of the 15th class engines is about 0.6 hp. up to 1.2 HP Engines of the 25th class already develop 2.5 hp. and more.

Electric motors (pictured to the right) are usually powered by rechargeable batteries 7.2 V and up. Batteries are soldered from elements of 1.2 V. They also sell separate elements for soldering and ready-made batteries.
Electric motors are classified by the length of the wire wound inside (by the number of turns) - 10 turns, 11 turns, 16 turns, 24 turns, etc. The fewer the number of turns, the faster the engine.

Chassis type

The chassis is the foundation of the model. All important elements are attached to it - engine, electronics, etc. Different types chassis serve different purposes and are designed based on the application.

Formula 1- designed for the development of high speeds and racing on an absolutely flat surface. Rear-wheel drive (2WD), although there are models with four-wheel drive(4WD).

Buggy- for off-road racing (sand, clay, gravel, mud), can jump from trampolines. Drive - full (4WD) or rear (2WD).

Tracks- similar in design to buggy, but have a larger ground clearance and bigger wheels. Drive - full (4WD) or rear (2WD).

Monsters- have huge wheels and are able to overcome any obstacles and ride on any surface. The long suspension travel allows you to jump from high jumps and do whatever you want. Drive - full (4WD) or rear (2WD).

Road models- are able to ride on a flat surface and have high speed and good handling. Drive - full (4WD), less often rear (2WD).

3. Internal combustion engine (internal combustion engine) versus Electro. Comparison

Before making a choice, you need to weigh the pros and cons of each type of engine. A correct understanding of the advantages and disadvantages of models with an electric motor and with an internal combustion engine will help to rationally spend money and avoid problems and disappointments. So:

ICE models

Many ICE models are faster than electric models and can exceed speeds of 70-80 km / h. Be that as it may, hitting a curb or wall at 70 km / h can completely destroy the model or cause costly repairs.

ICE for car models - single-cylinder two-stroke engines, which means that they need fuel (not gasoline, but special fuel). This means that you will have to regularly buy fuel for the model (the approximate price of 4 liters of good fuel is $ 45, however, the canister lasts quite a long time). The advantage of a model with an internal combustion engine is that you can drive it for as long as you like - the main thing is to fill the tank with fuel. As a rule, models with internal combustion engines are more expensive than models with an electric motor (due to the higher cost of the engine itself). Among the significant advantages of models with internal combustion engines is realistic sound.

Models with electric motor

The main disadvantage of electric models is that the battery runs out quickly. You are unlikely to be able to drive continuously for more than 15 minutes on a single charge. But in addition to a short driving time and a slightly lower maximum speed in all other respects, models with an electric motor turn out to be better. The main advantage of models with an electric motor is their silence, environmental friendliness and much better acceleration compared to models with an internal combustion engine.

Be that as it may, you still have to buy some additional equipment for the model - batteries and a charger. Batteries cost from $ 15 and differ in capacity and current output. How better batteries, the higher the price, and it increases nonlinearly. The chargers work either from 12V (powered by a cigarette lighter or a conventional car battery), or 220V (mains). There are chargers that can operate from 12 and 220V.

4. Radio control (equipment)

No matter what type of chassis and what scale you choose, you need a radio control system for the model. Many companies make models of some of their models in the form of RTR (Ready To Run) - ready to use right out of the box - they are usually already assembled and include everything you need, including a control panel. However, some of the models are still sold as an assembly kit and control equipment will have to be purchased additionally. Let's take a look at the principle of model driving.

Radio control system for a car model with an electric motor:

3. If the driver turns the steering wheel, the Receiver will send a signal to the Servo (also called Servo), forcing it to turn in the right direction. Through the linkage system, this servo turn causes the model's wheels to turn.

4. If the rider pulls the trigger, the Receiver sends a signal to the Regulator (Speed ​​Regulator).

5. The speed controller (also called the Stroke controller, Speed ​​controller) changes the speed of the electric motor and, therefore, the speed of the model (the engine is connected to the wheels by a system of belts and / or cardan shafts).

6. The battery is used to power the Motor, Servo 1, Receiver and ESC. If the model has an electronic speed controller, then the battery is connected to it, and the controller distributes power to the motor, receiver and servo.

Radio control system for a car model with an internal combustion engine:

1. When the rider pulls the trigger or turns the steering wheel on the Control Panel, a signal is sent to the Model Receiver.

2. The receiver receives the signal, processes it and sends the signal to the appropriate devices in the model.

3. If the driver turns the steering wheel, the Receiver will send a signal to Servo 1, forcing it to turn in the desired direction. Through the linkage system, this servo turn causes the model's wheels to turn.

4. If the rider pulls the trigger, the Receiver sends a signal to Servo 2.

5. Servo 2 moves the carburetor choke, which changes the flow of the fuel / air mixture and therefore the engine RPM and model speed.

6. The battery is used to power the Receiver, Servo 1 and Servo 2.

The items shown above constitute a complete list of the model's radio equipment. All of these elements are required to drive the model. ESCs are usually sold separately, while the remote control, receiver and servos are sold separately or all in one kit.

5. Batteries

If you decide to buy a model with an electric motor, you will need batteries. Car models usually use 7.2V batteries, which are soldered from 6 1.2V cells. There are currently two types of batteries in widespread use - Nickel Cadmium (NiCd) and Nickel Metal Hydride (NiMH). Each type has its own advantages and disadvantages, but NiMHs allow for a large battery capacity and have little or no memory effect.

How batteries differ.

Batteries are characterized by many parameters - internal resistance, average voltage, discharge current, etc. The exact values ​​of these parameters are given for expensive batteries for serious sports, for hobbies and amateur racing, you can not focus on them and buy batteries at a more affordable price. Moreover, the most important parameters- battery type (NiCd or NiMH) and its capacity (measured in mAh, for example 2400 mAh), it is indicated on the batteries in large numbers. The higher the capacity, the longer you can ride the model. The price, however, also increases ...

How many batteries should I buy?

For a start, it would be good to buy 2-3 batteries, which will allow you to ride with battery replacement for a long time. As for the capacity, it is better not to buy batteries with a capacity of less than 1500mAh, otherwise the driving time will be very short.

6. Fuel

Internal combustion engines for models cannot run on regular gasoline. They require a special fuel based on methanol and with varying amounts of nitromethane and oil. Nitromethane improves engine performance, and its content in car fuels is typically 16 to 25%. The oil in the fuel helps lubricate the engine and protect it from damage. Fuel cans usually indicate the nitromethane content and the type of model for which the fuel is applicable.

7. Body models

Bodies for car models are made of special plastic - polycarbonate (Lexan). The bodies are quite light and flexible so as not to break when struck. Models can be sold with or without a body. But you can always buy a body separately - fortunately, a great variety of bodies are available, copying a huge number of real cars.
Bodies are sold already painted or unpainted (transparent). The transparent body is painted from the inside with a special paint for polycarbonate, which can be found in any store for modelers.

Body different manufacturers can vary in detail and strength: some bodies are well-designed, accurately copying the original, but at the same time quite fragile. Other bodies contain less detail, but are more resilient and impact resistant. If you are a beginner, then try to choose more flexible bodies, because accidents are inevitable in the beginning and happen more often than it seems at first glance.

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8. List of necessary things

And, finally, a complete list of what you should buy for the model for its full functioning, start and maintenance.

For model with electric motor:

• Chassis (with electric motor)
• Radio control (the kit must contain 1 remote control, 1 receiver and 1 servo)
• Speed ​​controller (depends on the motor model, consult your dealer)
• Batteries (buy at least 2 batteries with a capacity of at least 1500mAh)
• Charger

For model with ICE:

• Chassis (with engine)
• Radio control (the kit must contain 1 remote control, 1 receiver and 2 servos)
• Rechargeable batteries or batteries (for powering the receiver and servos, usually 4 pieces of AA type)
• Body (if it was not included with the chassis)
• Body paint (it is better to buy 2 spray cans)
• Fuel
• A bottle for filling fuel into the model's tank
• Glow plug device (called glowstart in English)

My blog is searched for by the following phrases

And I decided to repeat it. From the beginning I ordered the equipment, servos, shock absorbers, which are less in front and large back. Photo not very



found a chainsaw engine of 45 cc and 3 horsepower.
And I started making the frame. The first pancake turned out to be lumpy, because I made it from a metal profile and the frame turned out to be heavy and flaky, which did not suit me.
Then I decided to try to make something lighter and more durable. I came across a sheet of aluminum from it, then I decided to make a frame. Firstly, light and durable (to some extent) one of its minuses is that it bends, but it doesn’t matter. In order for it not to bend, I strengthened it in the center by installing 2 strips of aluminum profile. The frame turned out to be surprisingly strong 32 kg weight that can withstand how hello, and this is what I need. The length of the frame is 73 cm, the width is 25 cm, the thickness is 2.5 mm. Here is the actual frame.

Then I thought about how to make a chassis, how to install the front wheels, from the beginning I wanted to use an aluminum U-shaped profile to install a suspension on it, but I couldn't find it anywhere (I never thought that it was such a deficit of D). I had to buy an aluminum corner of 25 mm, but then I found out that the rophil could be bought in castoram, but it was too late, that's what happened

the height of the corners turned out to be 6 cm. At the back, I still think about how best to do it, because the model will be rear-wheel drive and such a scheme will no longer work and do without the main parts rear suspension I do not risk it because I need to make estimates. And while I wait for the main premise, without which this machine will never budge. It comes with a set of drive axles

the receiver is like a native, because of my stupidity, it burned out

and wheel adapters

By the end of the first part, I want to show approximately how my model will look like, I will say right away the photos are not mine, I found them on the Internet. To be continued.

If you are accustomed to "turning the nuts" since childhood, the best gift for you was a designer, and you prefer to repair a bicycle-moped-motorcycle or a car with your own hands, then this article will most likely reveal quite a bit new for you. Assembling a radio-controlled car is not particularly difficult, in particular if you have an idea of ​​what and where it should stand, and how to work.

For those beginners who only roughly understand how both a large car and its smaller copy work, this article will be extremely useful.

First of all, you need to decide on the purchase of the chassis. As mentioned in one of our articles, cars are supplied in RTR configuration - fully assembled and prepared for travel and in KIT-kits for construction (which, in turn, are divided into three types, according to the professional level).

Those who choose the RTR kit, do not think that the assembly is "over" for you and you can safely ride. Not at all. Optimally, you need to disassemble and reassemble your car! The fact is that the factory assembly is often "uneven" - somewhere the bolt is not enough, somewhere there is no lock (Thread-Lock), it is possible that the camber is made incorrectly or the gearbox gears are not exposed. Driving an untested typewriter is the risk of breaking it on the very first day. In addition, disassembling and assembling a model is the best way to study it thoroughly. Therefore, be patient and carefully read this article, perhaps the information contained in it will be useful to you.

Study the instructions and packaging!

Please read the instructions supplied with your model carefully. We will proceed from the fact that we have a KIT-set, while the owners of the RTR-model will simply disassemble (in reverse order), and then do the assembly. Make sure you understand all names and terms. Check the package, all available parts must be within specification.

Pay attention to the length of the bolts and screws where they are located. They should be long enough for a secure fit. Remember, the manufacturer does not supply bolts or screws that are too long or too short. If the bolt is longer than you need at the attachment point, then it's not from here! And somewhere, in another place, he will be missed.

Do not confuse left and right side, front and rear nodes. You need to watch along the way of the car, then all sides and parts will correspond to their correct installation.

For assembly, it is best to allocate a spacious table and a desk lamp for bright local lighting.

It is better to spread a light dense fabric on the table - all small details are clearly visible on it. In addition, we recommend stocking a low box with small compartments, into which you can put small parts. Protect your assembly area from the sudden interference of small children and animals.

To work you need a set of tools:

Small pliers.

A set of Phillips and Straight Slotted Screwdrivers. You will need small to medium sized screwdrivers.

Small side pliers. Pliers, side cutters, nail file, knife can replace a high-quality multitool.

Scalpel or special knife with replaceable blades.

Hexagon set.

Caliper.

The assembly of the model should be carried out according to the instructions. It's not very difficult, but there are some subtleties.

1.Details with printed circuit board should be nibbled off with side cutters, after which the attachment point should be cleaned with a scalpel.

2.Bolts and screws should be tightened without overstressing. If you have difficulty in screwing in a screw, lubricate it with soap (for this, get yourself a technical block).

3.Use Thread-Lock to prevent self-loosening of bolts and screws. As a rule, the instructions indicate where it is applied without fail. But, if you feel that some not specified node can unwind, it is better to fix it. Typically all bolt-nut connections are provided with Thread-Lock.

4. Lubricate the gears, but wisely! Do not lubricate bare gears, as dirt will immediately adhere to them.

5.Check and adjust, if necessary, the gap in the main pair.

To check the gap between the gears, put a piece of paper between them and rotate the gear (should make a full circle). If all the teeth are printed on the sheet, then the gap is set correctly. If there are gaps, you need to tighten the gears a little.

After assembling the chassis (assembling the model - chassis, engine, transmission, etc.), proceed with the installation of the equipment. Center the servos. To do this, you need to set the neutral position of the trims and turn on the transmitter and receiver (with the steering servos connected to it). The servos will immediately move to the center position.

When installing the receiver, try to install it as far as possible from the battery, governor, power circuits. Move the antenna as far away as possible from possible sources of radio interference.

Having decided to purchase a battery for on-board power supply, do not miss the voltage, size, number of cans.

When gluing rubber to discs, be sure to wash off the factory preservative! Wash the rubber with soap and dry. Before gluing the rubber, apply risks to the discs (in the places of gluing), for example, with coarse sandpaper.

If you have directional rubber, make sure it is glued in the correct orientation.

The idea of ​​creating a radio-controlled car model arose a long time ago. But the implementation of this idea in plastic and metal was always hindered by some objective reasons. Firstly, the complete lack of experience in the design and construction of such a model (my hobby is aircraft modeling, and the structure and operation of some units of car models, the types of materials used, engines, batteries, the selection of a gearbox, etc., I was very vague). Secondly, the complete absence of literature on this topic. Thirdly, the lack of components (motors, gears, small diameter bearings, etc.). Surprisingly, the latter problem was quickly and easily resolved. I work at a data center, and the guys who know about my hobby for modeling somehow gave me some decommissioned printing mechanisms from printers and tape drives. From all these "pieces of iron" I managed to pick up several pairs of gears with different gear ratios, several shafts made of high-quality steel for axles and small bearings. Literature was also quite simple: I reviewed all the magazines "Modelist-Constructor" in my own library and in my library, and found some interesting articles for me. To begin with, it was decided to build the simplest model (no differential, no depreciation, no bearings, the engine from the car door lock locking mechanism, power supply - 8-10 SC-0.55 A / h batteries).

After a closer acquaintance with the catalog and models of TAMIYA, I was convinced that I did not make a model, but a toy. I wanted to build something more serious, I had to develop blueprints again. Due to the rather high complexity of the components of proprietary models (almost all parts are cast and of complex configuration), a transmission containing many parts, low strength and durability of mechanisms (please note that this is my subjective opinion), I do not even design an all-wheel drive and front-wheel drive chassis was trying. The prototype was the chassis from the Formula 1 model; the model was originally conceived for asphalt. Materials - sheet fiberglass, steel, duralumin, caprolactam, microporous rubber. The differential was made according to the description in the "Model-Constructor", the front suspension is similar to the proprietary one, but made of fiberglass, the regulator is home-made, mechanical. During the operation, some nuances arose that did not suit me. First, the wheels are completely unprotected from the blows of rivals. I had to change the front suspension arms several times and the rear axle axle a couple of times. Secondly, a very dense arrangement of mechanisms under the body of a small volume, and, as a result, difficult maintenance and cleaning of units. Thirdly, the material for the parts of the differential was poorly chosen, and its work did not suit me.

Taking into account the above, as well as the accumulated experience in the creation and operation of such models, a slightly different version of the chassis was developed. The changes mainly affected the type of chassis (for a closed body), the layout of the units, some parts of the differential, the steering gear protection unit. It's pretty hard for me to give objective assessment its "work", but the chassis suits me. Compared to the TAMIYA models, the chassis is faster (although the comparison was made visually, the front-wheel drive, all-wheel drive and my chassis were compared; the models were standard, without additional options). Parts and mechanisms are simpler than proprietary ones, in case of breakage, they can be easily repaired or repaired.

Unfortunately, I did not have the opportunity to work with the branded components (wheels, differential parts, etc.). But I think that by changing the size and configuration of some parts of the front suspension and rear axle, it is quite possible to apply the standard wheels, differential, shock absorbers, etc., produced by firms. In addition, by changing the size of some parts, it is quite possible to change the base and track of the chassis, that is, to make the chassis for any closed body. And, finally, the chassis did not cost me $ 200 plus about the same for tuning (maybe somewhere the prices are lower, but we have such).

In this material, I in no way want to belittle the merits and achievements of manufacturers of model products, offend people who have the opportunity to buy expensive models and accessories for them or pretend to be new ideas. Almost all the materials were published in the "Modelist-Constructor" magazine, however, sometimes I used other materials, changed something and refined it taking into account the details that I had. In general, what I have succeeded is what I bring to your attention.

Brief technical characteristics

Description of construction

Chassis base

Functionally, the chassis consists of three main components: a chassis base, a rear axle with a shock absorption system and a front suspension with a shock absorption system and a protective clutch. The base of the chassis is part 1, cut from fiberglass with a thickness of 2.5 mm. On this part, they are installed in the corresponding grooves of the sidewalls 3 and 4, which form a box-case for placing power batteries. After installing these parts, the joints are degreased and spilled with epoxy. On the racks 5 (material-duralumin or aluminum alloy), the "second floor" of the chassis 2 is attached, on which the steering gears, the travel regulator, the attachment points for the oil shock absorber and the protective coupling of the steering gear are located. It should be noted that the grooves of part 2 must coincide with the corresponding spikes of the sidewalls 3 (these places are not glued!). This assembled design increases the strength of the battery box. Brackets 6 are installed in front of the rear wheels, which play the role of protective "ears" and, in addition, they are equipped with body fastening pins. At the front of the chassis, the body can be attached to similar pins installed in the area of ​​the bumper-bumper. The bumper configuration depends on the prototype bow and is not shown in the drawings. Also, the attachment points of the body pins are not shown. Their location depends on the contours of the prototype hood. Due to the fact that fiberglass is inferior in strength to carbon fiber, the relief windows are cut out only in the parts that form the box for the power battery.

Rear axle with shock absorption system

The rear axle is made as a single, easily removable unit, which increases the convenience of repair and maintenance work. The base of the bridge (see. section A-A) - fiberglass plate 3 2.5 mm thick (you can use duralumin 2 mm thick). The motor frame 1 and the left wheel rack 2, made of 6 mm thick duralumin, are attached to it with M3 screws. The upper frame of the rear axle 4 is fastened from above with the same screws. Bearing cups 5 (right) and 6 (left) are attached to the engine frame and the rack. The right one was machined from steel and brought to the dimensions shown in the drawing; the left glass is made of duralumin. Bearings-13x6x3,

closed type. The axle 20, which connects the rear wheels, is made of a steel bar with a diameter of 6 mm. In the place where the left wheel is installed in the axle, an M2.5 hole is made for the pin. In the hub of the left wheel 17, a groove with a width of 2.5 mm is cut through. When installing the wheel on the axle, the pin enters the cut in the hub and thus prevents the wheel from turning on the axle. The right wheel is connected to the driven gear 11 (the drawing on the left shows the gear that I found, on the right - it is also after revision) through a ball friction clutch. It is formed by 6 balls with a diameter of 4.8 mm from the bearing located in the sockets of the cylindrical insert 10 (the cylindrical insert is connected to the gear with six M1.5 screws; holes for the screws are drilled in a circle with a diameter of 37 mm at 60o; a bronze plain bearing 12 is pressed into the insert) ... On both sides, the coupling is compressed with steel hardened washers 9 (washers size 30x13x1.2). One of the washers is glued into the hub of the right wheel 13, the second is glued to the thrust disk 8. The thrust disk is seated on the axle through a split bronze bushing 7. A thrust ball bearing 15 (made of steel bar; after grooving under the balls of the part are hardened). Adjustment of forces in the coupling is carried out by tightening the nut with a nylon insert 19. To prevent axial displacements, a bushing 21 is installed on the axle 20, which is fixed on the axle with an M3 screw. The right wheel hub 13 and the left disc 16 are machined from caprolactam; two bronze plain bearings 14 are pressed into the right-hand hub. The wheel tires are made of microporous rubber. To eliminate the axial play, a spacer washer 18 is used.

The rear axle is hung on the chassis base through a fiberglass shock absorber plate 22 using three M3 screws. On the base of the chassis, this part is fixed with a screw M4 and a pressure washer 23, which is screwed onto the rod 24. This rod is the axis of the frictional shock-absorbing unit. The latter consists of 25 disc friction washers and springs. The force of the friction clutch is regulated by movement along the axis of the sleeve 27, which is fixed by the M3 screw. The lower support 26, the spring rests on an additional spring bar 28, which is installed on the struts 29 on the base of the chassis 1.

To damp vibrations that occur during the operation of the suspension, a damping spring-oil shock absorber is installed. It is attached to part 2 with a duralumin bracket (Node I). The shock absorber is connected to the upper frame of the rear axle 4 by a ball joint (Unit II).

Front suspension

The front suspension was originally simplified (section Г-Г), and consisted of the upper and lower straps 1 made of foil-clad fiberglass, interconnected by struts 2 and attached to the base of the chassis 1 through rubber washers (Unit III). The swing arm consisted of parts 3, 4, 5, assembled into one unit by soldering. Amortization was carried out with the help of a spring and by moving part 3 along axis 6. On the axis 6, grooves were made for locking washers. Two bronze plain bearings 9 were pressed into the wheel disk 8.

But I did not like the work of such a suspension, and with the help of an article from the "Modelist-Constructor" magazine, another suspension was developed and manufactured (details are shown in the drawing to the right of the red dashed line). The base is node 1, assembled from parts 1A, two parts 1B ( fiberglass) and duralumin parts 2. Parts 1B are glued to 1A, tightened with M2 screws for greater strength; part 2 is screwed in with M2 screws. The lower suspension arm 3 consists of a base 3B and two sidewalls 3A (fiberglass 2 mm thick); after fitting and assembly, the joints are degreased and spilled with epoxy resin. The upper arm 4 consists of an earring 4A, a fork 4B and an axle 4B. Earring material and

forks - duralumin. The levers are attached to the base 1 using axles 15; in their places, the axles are fixed with locking washers 16. Using the same axis, the pivot rack 5 is attached to the lower lever (a factory-made part, but it is quite possible to make it from duralumin, simplifying it a little). The post 5 is attached to the upper arm 4 with a fork 4B and an M3 screw. The shackle 4A is attached to the unit 1 as shown in view B (the axis of rotation 15 is fixed with lock washers 16, fluoroplastic bushings 14 serve to prevent axial displacement of the shackle). The pivoting arm 6 is a piece of duralumin, a steel axle 7 is inserted into it with some interference, after which a vertical hole with a diameter of 4 mm is drilled under the axis of rotation 8. The axis of rotation is fixed with a lock washer.

Wheel disks 9 are machined from caprolactam. Hubs 10 are made of duralumin, fastened to the discs with three M2.5 screws. Bearings - 13x6x3, closed design. Wheel tires are made of microporous rubber.

Amortization is carried out using a plate 11 made of fiberglass, which is pressed against the base 1B by an M3 screw and a duralumin washer 12. The free ends of the plate rest on fluoroplastic bushings 13, which are put on the axle 15. This design allows you to adjust the stiffness of the suspension due to the thickness and width of the plate 11 rather within wide limits.

The steering gear protection sleeve is an assembly shown in section B-B. Compared to the node published in the "Modeler-Constructor", it has been slightly redesigned. The base is a steel axle 1, on which a piece of bronze 3 is fitted into an interference fit. After that, a hole with a diameter of 1.5-2 mm is drilled in these parts together, a pin is inserted and sealed. Thus, part 1 and 3 are tightly connected. The rocker 4 is soldered to part 2, and the assembly is assembled as shown in the drawing. Axle 1 rotates in a needle bearing, which is installed in part 6 (which, in turn, is installed in the hole in the base 1). The second bearing is a nylon bushing 5, installed in part 2. The depth of the hole with a diameter of 5.2 mm on part 5 must be selected so as to ensure the minimum backlash of the axle 1 of the protective clutch, but at the same time the ease of rotation of the unit. The clutch is set in rotation using a duralumin rocker 7.

Conclusion

A few words about the model itself. The Ferrari F40 served as the prototype, so the base and width of the chassis, the diameter of the wheels were developed based on the actual dimensions of the car, on a scale of 1:10. The body is made of fiberglass, glued on a dummy. Control equipment - Graupner FM-314, steering gears - standard 508 (similar in size to HS 422 Hitec).

I tried to describe in as much detail as possible the course of my thoughts during the development and the procedure for manufacturing the chassis. It is possible that some of the nodes could have been made differently, using different materials or design solutions. I want to give a little advice to those who want to repeat this model. First you need to select the components (gears, shock absorber, swing arms, etc .; it is quite possible that you will not be able to pick up parts according to the dimensions indicated on the drawings) and materials for homemade parts. After that, you may have to make some adjustments to the drawings, and only then start manufacturing. If anyone has any questions, suggestions, criticism - I will be glad to talk on the forum.

Not only children are now interested in toys. Many adults buy exact copies of cars famous brands or they are looking for radio-controlled models of cars. Among the offered assortment of toy stores, it is not always possible to find an option that will completely suit the client. In some cases, it is much better to make a radio-controlled model of a car yourself, your child will appreciate your efforts. A do-it-yourself gift from improvised means is much more valuable than a bright car bought at an expensive toy store.

You can make your own radio-controlled car using our sequential algorithm. Modeling from one finished model of a car to another is very similar to the actions of craftsmen in a car workshop.

To create a do-it-yourself controlled machine, you need to have the following elements:

• Electric motor;
• Frame small car;
• Robust chassis;
• Removable wheels;
• Mini screwdriver set;
• Detailed instructions for accessories.

Undoubtedly, self-assembly of the machine on the remote control has a lot of advantageous advantages, namely:

• Saving money, while you will have the model of the machine that you wanted;
• You can choose the model you need from the offered assortment of spare parts and body types;
• You decide - to make a mini-typewriter on a wired remote control, or use a radio control, which will have to spend a large amount.

After you decide on the model, follow the following sequence of actions:

• We select a chassis for your model, pay attention to the quality of all small parts. No blotches and notches on the surface of the plastic should be visible, the front wheels should move smoothly;
• When selecting wheels Special attention pay to models with rubber, since all plastic models have a poor quality grip surface;
• Take the choice of motor with all seriousness, since this is the main heart of the mini-car. There are 2 types of mini-motors for cars - electric and gasoline. Electric motors are affordable and easy to use, they are powered by a battery, and it is very easy to recharge it. Gasoline options have more power, but they are more expensive and require delicate maintenance. They need to be injected with special fuel. For beginners in the field of toy car modeling, electric motors are suitable;
• You need to decide on the type of control - wired or wireless. Wired control is cheaper, but the car will only move within a limited radius, while the RC model will move within antenna range. The radio unit is much more efficient for mini-cars;
• The body of the future car also deserves increased attention. You can choose a ready-made case or make it according to your own sketch.

After all the parts are purchased, you can start assembling.

We attach a motor and a radio unit to the chassis. We mount the antenna. Together with the accessory parts must go detailed instructions to assemble the entire machine. We are adjusting the work of the motor. After everything is working properly, fix the sturdy body of the mini-car to the chassis. Now you can decorate the created model as you like. Let's make a car with a powerful motor.

Many will find the idea of ​​assembling a car with a motor for their child very strange, since there are many ready-made options... But if you strive to show individuality and earn credibility in the eyes of your child, then you can start assembling a machine with a motor, although this is not easy, but the result will justify all efforts.

The best option is to start assembling a radio-controlled model. Here you will need certain skills and knowledge of small electrical engineering, because this mini-machine is a rather complex mechanism, despite its compact size. All important parts must be purchased.

We begin to study the control panel. The movement of the car, the ability to overcome obstacles, and make beautiful maneuvers directly depends on the correct assembly. Many car modellers use a three-channel pistol-style remote control, which you can assemble yourself.

You can follow a simple path - get a special designer, where the kit contains all the necessary parts, their detailed diagrams and final drawings of finished models.

Engines for future radio-controlled models can be electric or internal combustion. Internal combustion engines produce gasoline or incandescent, operating on a composition of methanol, oil and nitromethane, a special gas-alcohol mixture. The approximate volumes of such engines range from 15 to 35 cm3.

Approximate volume fuel tank these machines have 700 cm3. It keeps the engine running smoothly for 45 minutes. Many gasoline models have rear drive, an independent suspension is mounted on them.

Today there are many demountable models on the market for car models. Among the leading manufacturers of mini-cars, it is worth highlighting ABC, Protech, FG Modelsport (Germany), HPI, HIMOTO (USA). Their main feature is the similarity of mini-models with real prototypes. After completing the assembly, according to the attached instructions, install a charged on-board battery, a battery in the transmitter, pour a small amount of gasoline into the tank. You can safely launch your iron horse on the way.

Modeling cars of your own accord is a fun hobby, especially when the result exceeds all expectations. First you need to purchase a bench model Range rover, we will make a jeep out of it, which can freely cut through the off-road. We also need to take working electronics from an old jeep, we will fix it in an SUV.

We make bridges and differentials from copper pipes with a soldering iron. We attach it to the powerful wheels of an SUV. Care must be taken to ensure that all connections are firmly sealed. We closed the sharpening differentials with pill caps. From above we cover the entire joint of the differential with ordinary auto enamel. We put the bridges on the frame and carry out the steering rods. Steering rods can be obtained from an old disassembled machine. After installing the plastic bottom, we cut out a hole there, which is necessary for installing the gearbox, cardan shafts... The gearbox contains an airplane engine, which is also quite powerful. The model does not move in jerks, but smoothly, this is the most important condition for such models. It is quite difficult to make a gearbox, but here you can show all your ingenuity. We fix the gearbox tightly to the bottom, attach the bottom to the frame. Now the electronics, shock absorbers, battery are being installed. At the end, the body of the car is painted, the main units are installed, the headlights and much more. We apply the paint in 4 layers for ordinary plastic. The author found the original photo of the car and made a mini-copy of it in a toy version. So that the model is not afraid of moisture, he covered the electronics special composition... To give the effect of antiquity, I sanded the outer surface of the car after painting. The battery in this model is enough for 25 minutes of continuous riding.

To create such a simple model, we need the following list of small details:

• Microcircuit for a radio-controlled car;
• Remote Control;
• Steering element;
• Soldering iron with solder;
• Compact electrical device;
• Battery with charger.

The procedure is as follows:

• We collect the lower part of the car, that is, the suspension;
• For this purpose, a strong plastic plate is required, it will be the basis for this model;
• A microcircuit for a radio-controlled car is attached to it, we solder a wire to it, which serves as an antenna;
• We solder the wires from the electric motor;
• We fix the battery wires to the correct points of the microcircuit;
• We fix the wheels taken from a simple children's car;
• All parts can be secured so as not to fall off during use.

We fix the steering elements, it is impossible to do this with glue alone. The front axle must be wrapped with electrical tape for a stronger fix. We attach the battery to a microcircuit. The machine is now ready for testing. It must definitely function. The control of such a machine is carried out using the remote control. By following these instructions, you can easily make a new typewriter on the control. If you want to design with your own hands, then this guide is more useful than ever. A handmade toy pleases much more than a model bought with your own hands.

To assemble this model, we need the following components:

• A simple model of a car of any production;
• VAZ parts for opening doors, 12-volt battery;
• Radio control equipment;
• Durable batteries with chargers;
• Radiator;
• Electronic measuring equipment;
• Small soldering iron with solder;
• Locksmith tools;
• A piece of rubber to provide reinforcement for the bumper.

An approximate scheme for collecting a radio-controlled model is shown in the figure.

Let's move on to reading and collecting the diagram, to the fascinating process of creating a unique mini-typewriter. First, we collect the suspension. We take VAZ connections and gears for assembling the gearbox. The studs and body need to be threaded in order to hang the gears and solenoids. We connect the gearbox to the power supply, check it, and then fix it on a typewriter. To effectively protect the system from overheating, we install a radiator. The plate from it can be firmly fixed with ordinary bolts. Next comes the installation of power driver and radio control microcircuits. We completely install the car body. Our mini car is ready for real challenges.

You have a radio-controlled car. Are you looking to make it more agile, but don't know how to do it?

Do not overload the model with additional systems and unnecessary small details. Sound signals The glowing headlights are all the amenities, they look great, but the do-it-yourself process of collecting radio-controlled cars and without this it has certain difficulties. Complicating details can negatively affect important undercarriage auto. The main point to focus on is the creation of a high-quality suspension, ensuring reliable signal transmission.

For improved agility and optimization speed parameters fine-tuning the system during test drives will do. These guidelines will help you understand the business of car modeling. You can create a typewriter yourself, which will be a real copy of a large model. All the details will be similar, only your version will have everything in a mini-format.

Make your son happy - make a car with him on the control panel

You can start with a simple one - to assemble a construction machine on the remote control. First you need to come up with a project: how your car will look like, how it will move, view other details. To start immediate assembly, you need to prepare not only all the important components of the future iron horse, but also the necessary devices. To start an exciting joint activity with our sons, we take the following things:

• Small motor, can be borrowed from an old vein or a household fan;
• Sturdy frame;
• Mini rubber kit;
• Quality suspension for a small chassis;
• 2 sturdy axles for fixing the wheels;
• Wireless antenna;
• Thin wires for connections;
• High-quality batteries for the accumulator or special gasoline;
• Assembled signal receiver;
• An old remote control, a simple transmitter or an outdated radio unit will do.

From the devices you will need pliers, a small soldering iron, screwdrivers of various diameters.

Assembly order

During the collection process, it may turn out that some of the missing parts will have to be purchased or borrowed from the old, broken machines of the son. After all, he will sacrifice them for the sake of a cool novelty, isn't that so ?! We take the frame and body from the old samples of the son's toys. The selected motor is tested in advance for maneuverability and performance. The power of the engine should not go against the weight of the car, because weak motor will not pull heavy construction. Batteries must be unused. The step-by-step assembly steps are as follows:

• First, we assemble the mini-frame;
• Then we fix and adjust the serviceable motor;
• We introduce batteries or a compact battery;
• Next, the antenna is fixed;
• The wheels are mounted so that they can turn freely, spinning with the axle. If this condition is not met, the machine will only move forward and backward.

For the future iron horse, it is better to take rubber tires, since they perform best on open ground. If the assembly process was easy enough, you were able to figure out all the intricacies of the primary car modeling, then you can make several samples, you can give another copy to a neighbor's boy. They will arrange outdoor racing on the street.

Assembling a new unique car is a fascinating process for which dad and son can spend more than one evening. To turn it into a productive business, you can follow the following recommendations, they must be taken into account when assembling a modern toy:

• Make a sketch of the future model that you want to assemble, or use the ready-made assembly instructions;
• Purchase all quality car parts;
• Additional parts can be taken from old machines or purchased new ones;
• Before installation, thoroughly test the selected motor, this is the heart of the machine;
• Don't skimp on batteries for a new model, keep them new and unused;
• Firmly fix all the details, according to their sequence;
• Study the schemes for creating similar cars in advance to facilitate the assembly process;
• Choose a ready-made model or come up with something of your own, unique.

Following these recommendations, you and your child will easily make the chosen model of the machine. You can craft and collect exact copies original cars when you reach a certain skill level. Putting together a typewriter in a family circle is the best way to effectively organize leisure for yourself and your child.

A self-assembled machine will be a valuable present for your children, because real fatherly feelings are embedded in it. When assembled, the model will travel in the selected direction and is easy to maneuver. You can learn how to make a simple version of the typewriter by following the recommendations from the proposed video. Start your journey in the world of car modeling!