Prado 120 rear differential lock. Differential lock - use. Interwheel differential lock

home / Battery

ARB pneumatic rear axle differential lock for Toyota Land Cruiser prado 120.

It is a common misconception that all-wheel drive provides 100% traction - that is, that one necessarily accompanies the other. However, in reality, the wheels of most 4WD vehicles slip when they get off-road. The problem is simple enough - one or more wheels lose traction, and your standard center differential, which is designed for driving on a flat highway, directs all the power to the wheels that are slipping. On the road, a standard "open" differential allows each of your wheels to spin independently, completely disengaging traction as you spin. Off-road, however, this becomes a major drawback, since the engine power will follow the path of resistance, that is, it will be directed to the wheels with the least or no grip on the road surface. More than modern design- self-locking limited slip differential (LSD), which will behave "smarter" in the above-described situation, however, nevertheless, more often than not, you will not be able to continue moving forward with it if you find yourself in a difficult situation. Automatic locks in addition, they have their disadvantages: they can be very noisy when unlocking, and in addition, they significantly impair your car's behavior on the highway.

ARB pneumatic interlocks Provide 100% grip on the road, if desired, in any situation, without in any way changing the behavior of your car on the highway. The pneumatic locks are controlled by a 12-volt compressor, which activates and deactivates the absolutely secure center differential locks. Thus, you gain traction when needed at the push of a button while sitting in complete safety in your driver's seat.

The advantage of ARB locks is a pneumatically controlled structure, which is located inside the differential and, when turned on, blocks its action, stopping the rotation of the gears and, accordingly, stopping the effect of the differential on the axle shaft. When both wheels are "tied" directly to the rotation of the main pair, the car maintains maximum possible adhesion with road surface in all situations. In the unlocked state, the mechanism pneumatic locking ARB acts in the same way as a normal differential. In addition to significantly increasing the off-road vehicle's off-road capability, pneumatic locks also help preserve natural resources. When a locked vehicle is approaching a difficult terrain, it is not necessary to drive it aggressively - "from acceleration", relying on the vehicle's inertia. With pneumatic locks, you can drive more slowly and safer, as the grip on the road surface will be significantly improved.

In order to understand how to use the differential lock in certain traffic situations it is necessary to understand the structure and operation of the vehicle transmission elements.

The Toyota Prado 90 uses a permanent all-wheel drive system with the installation of 3 differentials (2 interwheel and one interaxle).

Differential is mechanical device, which divides the moment of the input shaft between the output shafts.

What does permanent all-wheel drive mean?

In simple words, the torque from the engine is transmitted through the gearbox and transfer case to all the wheels of the car, distributed in almost any ratio, depending on their adhesion to the road surface.
In this case, an open differential can transmit rotation, including in a ratio of 100%: 0% - when one of the driving wheels takes all the torque on itself,
this usually happens when one of the wheels is suspended.

If one of the wheels is lifted off the ground with a jack, the car with permanent four-wheel drive will not move.

The use of such a system on cars greatly relieves the load on the transmission elements, thereby extending its service life. But what if the car is designed to move not only on good roads but also off-road? Just for this, the ability to block the differential is provided, thereby distributing equally the torque to the output shafts.

Center differential lock

If you include interaxle blocking, the torque is distributed between the front and rear axles 50 × 50. In other words, when using this lock, the front and rear axles are simultaneously engaged, while the torque is distributed to the wheels by the cross-axle differentials. A typical situation when the car stops moving when the center differential lock is on is diagonal hanging of the car, in this case the cross-axle blocking helps.

The center differential lock can be engaged on the move at speeds up to 100 km / h. An orange indicator on the instrument panel comes on. It is used to move along bad roads, in case of ice, for a more stable vehicle behavior.

Interwheel differential lock

The prado 90 provides for the possibility of a rigid (some models have a self-locking LSD bridge). When it is blocked, 3 wheels begin to rotate at the same time, one in front and two in the back.

This lock is activated by the “diff lock” lever from the instrument panel, and is driven by an electric motor mounted on the rear axle.

The interwheel differential lock can only be activated when the vehicle is at a standstill with the gearbox selector N (neutral). The red indicator on the dashboard lights up, at first it blinks (the blocking process is in progress, you cannot move) then it lights up constantly (the blocking is on). It is used for driving on mud, sand, deep loose snow, for greater cross-country ability (overcoming difficult areas). Cannot be used on hard ground. It is possible to use with a downshift range of gears.

Reducing range of gears

The extreme position (forward) of the handle transfer case includes a lowered range of gears, which eliminates wheel slip and relieves additional load on the engine and gearbox.

Can only be used with blocking rear differential.

Experience of use

From his personal experience, I can advise you to use these locks as little as possible. In the first year of operation, having no experience of driving on a permanent all-wheel drive, believed that in winter it is better to use (for safety) the center differential lock. After replacing the chain of the transfer case, I no longer think so). Use locks only when really necessary, Prado on the roads common use and without this, it behaves quite steadily and confidently.

There are two modes H and L:

  1. H - normal mode
  2. L - reduced, the torque transmitted to the wheels increases.
  • HH - normal driving
  • HL - conventional with a center differential lock, the moment is distributed between the axles 50/50
  • LL - lowered with a center differential lock.

To switch:

  • stop the car
  • press the brake pedal
  • automatic transmission handle in N
  • dispenser handle in L
  • Automatic transmission in D and you can go.

Exactly the same back. Automatic transmission, depending on the purpose, can be put on any gear.

The lowered one is turned on when the machine is stopped when the automatic transmission handle is in N, in the same way back. Blocking is possible when driving, while the electronics itself will determine the moment of switching on, but it is advisable to turn it on before the start of dirt, sand, snow.

I turn on the lowered one very rarely, mainly when you need to carefully adjust the speed with the gas pedal (track, bumps, bump). In other cases, the moment is 4 liters. there is enough motor, except for very heavy mud or dense snow.

The center differential is locked with a lever next to the gearbox lever. The blocking on the high one is turned on on the go, it is not connected immediately, it is recommended to play (light) with gas or a brake. The power-on indication on the panel, blinking, has not yet turned on or turned off, lights up evenly, turned on. It turns off the same way. The reduced one turns on, turns off ONLY when the machine is at a standstill.

The rear axle lock is activated on the move, the speed is less than 8 km / h. on either standing car, switch on the front panel under the steering wheel. Locking hard, ONLY off-road. After turning on the switch, it is also recommended to play a little gas brake. Until the red indicator stops blinking and lights up steadily.

In the Prado manuals they write as follows:

etlib.ru

120 Prado - How to replace automatic transmission fluid | Page 4

I want to make a very important addition about the 750th 5 speed gearbox. You need to control the temperature at a certain temperature using a scanner, or without a scanner, by transferring the box to the ATF temperature control mode. Automatic transmission 5 of the Art is transferred to the temperature control mode as follows: close the contact of the diagnostic block on the left under the steering wheel with wiring 4 and 13. (counting from left to right, in the top row 1-8, in the bottom 9-16 pins) Start the engine. Slowly move the gearshift lever from P to L and back to P. Quickly move the gearshift lever from D to N and back 6 times. The OIL TEMP lamp on the tidy will light up for 2 seconds and go out. All the rules, we remove the wiring and wait until the oil warms up at idle until working temperature... You can transfer the selector to P, you can leave it in N. If the lamp is off, the oil is cold. The lamp is on - the temperature is normal, we climb to check the oil level when the car is running. If the lamp blinks, the oil is overheated. Under the machine (when it is running), unscrew the control plug (hexagon by 5) if oil does not pour out of it - add through the filler (filler on the right in the direction of the car in the area of ​​connection with the distributor, turnkey for 24) until it flows out of the control, as it stops pouring , begins to drip - we twist the control and filler and rejoice. After turning off the engine, the box rises itself to normal mode. (I 2 days ago changed ATF in the box, duck, I filled it in the maplo level, after running through all the gears I added it again in level, but when the oil warmed up before the Oil Temp lamp came on, it got in again !!! 1.5 LITERS!) I'll just copy and paste my own algorithm for changing the oil in a 5-mortar: I bought spare parts: ATF-WS in one of the following packages, I took 3 flasks of 4 liters each. ATF WS 4L 08886-02305 ATF WS 20L 08886-02303 ATF WS 1L 08886-80807 Filter oil automatic transmission 35330-60050 Pan gasket 35168-60010 Gasket oil filter Automatic transmission 90301-31014 Sealing ring for drain / control plug automatic transmission 35178-30010 2 pcs. It is also recommended to replace the rubber gasket. filler plug, but I did not change, I forgot to buy. The tool is a 24 head for the filler plug, 14 for a drain plug, a 5 hexagon for a control one and a 10 head with a cardan and an extension (100 mm) for twenty pan bolts and 4 filter bolts. I was also helped by a hose for pumping gasoline with a pear, I poured fresh ATF with it, the end of the hose tightly into the filler hole, the second into a can of liquid, and the pump, pump with a pear, we pump it, not a drop is spilled. The packaging of the slurry from Toyota is such that you can't fill it into a box without special equipment. Gasoline galoshes or acetone a couple of liters to wash the magnets and the pallet and clean rags.

He unscrewed the drain plug by 14. I drained everything that had merged - 2.5 liters. Threw off the pallet pallet. By the way, all the liquid is not poured out. There is still a liter in the pallet. The filter is changing - (carefully when removing it, do not pour it over) another half liter is poured from the filter over the collar. After that, the magnets are washed from the pallet and the pallet itself from the metal suspension, and I had a lot of shit there, put the magnets in place and put a clean pallet on a new gasket. Tightening torque 4.4 Nm, do not overtighten! Tighten with two fingers, a thumb and a little finger, or even a screwdriver with a 10-point adapter head. The gasket is soft and compresses very quickly, if you pull it all the way - it will all be squeezed out and flattened out. I twist drain plug on a new gasket. Pouring in new fluid until it begins to ooze from the control plug. After that, the apparatus will drive out the very thing, for work at the service station. And I did it without a device in the garage. I threw the ATF supply hose to the radiator, the upper one (located in the area of ​​the battery) and this hose into an empty bottle. In general, it is better to build up the hose, otherwise it is short. The union on the radiator remains bare. I started it on P for 15-20 seconds, 1.5 liters of old blackening slurry were drained, no more draining, so that the box does not grab air. Jammed. Topped up in the filler at the control level. And so 5 times until the pure slurry went to merge. Spent 10 liters of WSki. Then he warmed up the box in the service mode (description above) until the lamp came on, oil tempo, warmed up by the way for about 50 minutes. After that, with the engine running, he added almost 1.5 liters more !!! until it poured from the control plug and that's it. I screwed it onto a new gasket (the metal ring is crumpled) and you're done. A total of 11.5 liters were spent. Now the box is unrecognizable. Switches softer, thinks faster in kickdown. Well, the old one in color resembled working off from the engine after 10 thousand km. Mileage to replace ATF- 90 tyk. Under my operating conditions, it clearly had to be changed 20 thousand ago.

Click to Expand ...

prado-club.ru

120 Prado - How to replace automatic transmission fluid

Re: Automatic transmission oil change and the lit CE Prado-club said: Ahem, Elchin, you're wrong. This is not a flushing fluid. flushing oil ICE, but just an additive (another miraculous), which requires, after its application, a CHANGE of the automatic transmission fluid. So the use of this chemical cannot be attributed to one of the ways to replace the automatic transmission fluid. Total, ways 2: complete replacement using special equipment and partial replacement

I have an opinion - you can argue with hell: all these additives are evil. I strongly doubt that athletes use them on their cars (at least I have never heard from rally drivers)

Click to Expand ...

Here's another way for you ...

quick and convenient drainage of used oil and control of fresh oil topping up;

a set of adapters allows you to service most car models

What is the MotorVac TransTech III used for? TransTech III is designed for complete oil change in automatic transmissions of cars. TransTech III Reduces Time Maintenance car, producing full replacement oil (the gearbox oil change procedure takes about 10 minutes).

How does the MotorVac TransTech III installation work? Advanced electronic controls allow automatic transmission oil changes with the push of a button. The unit has the function of "drain into the pan" when, together with the oil, a filter change is required. The TransTech III connects through the transmission radiator hoses and provides a "clean" process. The unit drains 100% of the used fluid and replaces it with fresh fluid in full while the engine is running. The most important thing in its work is that no adjustments or settings are required. TransTech III provides automatic control of the entire process. Usually, the process of changing the oil in automatic transmissions takes a long time and does not completely drain the used oil, and is also accompanied by constant spilling and contamination of both the vehicle itself and the premises. For example, Toyota Land Cruiser Prado 95 s gasoline engine 3.4 liters has an automatic transmission oil capacity of 12 liters. When replaced in the usual way, only 2 liters change! The converter, clutch drums, oil cooling radiator, solenoid housing remain filled with a large amount of used dirty oil, which will no longer retain their properties. With TransTech III, the process is simple and safe. And most importantly, the TransTech III unit changes the oil in the box quickly and completely.

Other Advantages of MotorVac TransTech III TransTech III has two other advantages over conventional gearbox oil changes. A special cleaner, which is used when changing the oil, increases the life of the gearbox by removing wear products, metal particles and other impurities from the converter, cooling radiator, oil lines and the gearbox itself. Lubricating oil conditioner keeps oil seals in good working order and does not crack, helping to reduce the likelihood of oil leaks and overheating. This allows you to "extend life" automatic box gears, get smooth and soft shifting and improve technical performance.

© 2021 bugulma-lada.ru - Portal for car owners