Detailed instructions on how to assemble a machine on the control panel: many assembly options, valuable tips and tricks, a practical guide. Engine installation and bodywork

Toy cars Diskie Toys Cars 2 series copy the characters of the cartoon Cars 2 (Cars 2) and are popular with children. The author repaired a Chinese-made Mc Queen model car of unknown model year. On the 3rd day, the car fell into the water, smoke came out of it, then it began to stop, not responding to commands from the remote control. There are no repair suggestions on the support website. In Moscow online stores, the warranty period for the exchange of faulty radio-controlled toys, at the time of this writing, was 7 days. According to the operating instructions, the RC (Radio-Car) Mc QUEEN is equipped with a certified 27138 radio control module with a frequency of 27 MHz. The author did not find any information on repairing this module. This article contains electrical circuits the control panel (Fig. 1), the Mc QUEEN model cars (Fig. 2), the faults found and the ways to eliminate them are described (Fig. 3), some features of the machine control are noted.

On the diagrams alphanumeric designations radio components correspond to the designations indicated on the circuit boards. The parts not marked on the boards were designated by the author himself. Parts marked on the boards, but not soldered, power dissipation of SMD resistors, jumpers, incl. SMD, not indicated on the diagrams. The marking of semiconductor SMD devices is indicated in the frame if it was applied legibly. All denominations shown in the diagrams have been read or measured. In the control panel, the contacts of the buttons SB2, SB3, SB4, SB5 are carbon, they are connected to the corresponding contact pads of the board with carbon tracks, the same carbon tracks are connected to the board with the middle pin SA1 and pin 10 ic2. These tracks are not marked on the board. They are marked on the control panel diagram with thick lines and a resistor symbol, indicating the resistance of a given carbon track, or a closed SB2-SB5 contact between two corresponding contact pads. Encoder of control commands of the console, IC2 chip marked "515T", and decoder of machine control commands, U2 chip marked "515R", in SOP 14 cases, made in China. It is not known whether they are programmable, but they have a memory capacity for one or two commands; the author did not find a description of these microcircuits.

The control panel consumes a current of 50-150 mA. Its performance is maintained when powered by 3 LR6 batteries up to 3.3V. LEDs D19-D20 are indicators of switching on the remote control. From pin 8 of ice2, the radio transmitter of the control panel is switched on, and codes are transmitted that modulate the emitted signal. From pin 9 of ic2, the control signals are fed to pin 3 of ic1 of the sound processor, a "black pill" located on a separate board, 8 by 15 mm.

Sound effects are recorded in ic1 memory in 2 second files. When a control signal arrives, ic1 selects the desired file and broadcasts it continuously until the end of the control signal. The SPK speaker is located inside the control panel. The first two days, the remote control could say the phrase: "Talk to me."

Scheme 1

Scheme 2

Forward and backward movement is performed by the electric motor of the M1 machine, its operation is controlled from the remote control by a variable resistance RW1, included as a rheostat. The proportional control scale LEDs turn on sequentially, starting from D18-D17 to D11-D10, they indicate the deviation of the RW1 slider from the middle position when moving forward and backward. The movement speed is controlled by changing the frequency of the forward - backward commands from the control panel. But this adjustment is not very effective, because at low speeds, the electric motor does not have enough torque and the machine begins to twitch at the start. Turning left and right is performed by the electric motor of the M2 machine, and is controlled from the remote control by the SA1 switch. To execute the “Reverse” command (Circular rotation), pressing the SB1 “MODE” switch from the remote control turns on the electric motor of the M3 machine and the spring-loaded platform with the reversal wheel fixed to it is lowered from the upper position. In the lower position of the platform, the turning wheel extends and abuts against the floor surface, the gear on its axis engages with the gear of the gearbox of the drive wheel motor M1, at the same time the rear drive wheels are torn off the surface, the SF3 contact is opened and SF2 closes, after which the M3 engine stops. Now the commands coming from RW1 and SA1 are blocked, and the M1 motor will be controlled by the position sensors SQ1 and SQ2 and rotate the reversal wheel. Contacts SQ1 and SQ2 should be triggered when the remote control is wiggled from side to side, when one of them is closed, the machine turns to the right or left for 3 seconds, then stops on its own. Sensors SQ1 and SQ2 are metal, cylindrical, with axial leads, without marking. Inside, judging by the sound, there is a ball. When the sensor is turned with the golden lead down, the contact inside the sensor is closed, and when it is turned down, the silver lead is opened. The sensors are located on the rear wall of the control panel at an angle of 90 degrees. one to the other, but the angle of their operation is more than 150 degrees. Perhaps, for this reason, one of them was installed in the remote control upside down, and in order to change the direction of rotation of the machine, it was necessary to turn the remote control upwards and downwards with the antenna. To cancel the command for circular rotation, turn off SB1, after which the engine M3 is turned on again: the platform of the reversal wheel rises, the gear on its axis is disconnected from the gearbox M1, SF2 is opened, the drive wheels are lowered to the surface, in the upper position of the platform, SF3 is closed and M3 stops.

Scheme 3

The car consumes more than 1A current while driving. When powered by 8 LR6 batteries, it remains operational up to a voltage of 10.5V (1.3V per cell). Semi-discharged cells of this standard size do not "hold" a large current for them, so the use of batteries is undesirable. The self-resetting fuse FU1 has no marking and has never tripped. The U1 microcircuit without marking is probably a dual operational amplifier, similar to the one included in the Chinese PTBA978B microcircuit, the "trim" of their terminals is the same, the ratings C4, C6, C9, C13 are taken from. Outside the machine's receiver board, there are M1, M2, M3 electric motors, SF1-SF3 sensors, a power connector and switch, headlight LEDs, a board with R14-R17 resistances. M1 and M3 engines with gearboxes, a platform with a turn wheel, driving wheels are assembled into a single block of the rear axle. The SF1 sensor is located in a non-separable assembly for the reversal wheel axle, there is no access to it, its contacts close and open at each rotation of the reversal wheel. Sensors SF2 and SF3 are push-action micro-switches, SF2 is mounted at the very bottom of the block, it is most susceptible to contamination. The SF3 sensor is located at the top of the assembly. All three sensors are connected by wires to the corresponding contact pads on the board: K2, K3, K4, when triggered, they close the corresponding terminals of the U2 microcircuit to the common wire. If the contacts of the SF2 and SF3 sensors are broken, or their connecting wires are broken, after giving or canceling the "MODE" command, the M3 engine continues to work, continuously lowering and raising the reversal wheel. The U2 decoder, having noticed an error in the execution of the command, locks itself and stops the execution of all commands. To restart U2, the machine must be turned off and then turned on again with the SA1 switch.

The broken machine turned off after pressing the SB1 button on the remote control due to the impossibility of executing the "MODE" command. On its board, before charring, the transistors Q8 and Q11, which control the M3 motor, burned out, so that it was impossible to establish their type and conductivity. A complementary pair of transistors connected by emitters to the "+" of M3 would turn it on with the closed transistor Q7. But M3 must be turned on by the "MODE" command when Q7 is opened, then the p-n-p transistor Q11 and the n-p-n Q8 must be connected by collectors to the "+" pin of M3. After installing in place Q8 and Q11 a pair of transistors "8050" and "8550" collectors to "+" M3, it started working, but during the day these transistors burned out again. I had to draw circuits and figure out the reason for what happened: it turned out that when Q7 was switched, a through current flows through the transistors Q8 and Q11 for some time, and, like on the board, connecting their base terminals to D9 only increases this current. When the "MODE" command is executed, the M3 turns on for only 2-3 seconds, so this scheme could work for several days. But if the MODE command is turned on frequently, or if the resistance of the SF2-SF3 contacts increases, the transistors Q8 and Q11 would necessarily burn out. To avoid the through current, the n-p-n transistor Q8 was removed from the M3 control circuit, it would be removed immediately and nothing would have burned out. In place of Q11, 2Т836Б was soldered, everything worked, but due to the peeling of the foil of the contact pads Q11, (earlier it burned out stronger than Q8), it was necessary to change the M3 switching circuit. The result of the repair is shown in Fig. 3. Removed from the board: diode D9, peeled foil of contact pads Q11. In place of D9, R28 is installed, the 2T836B transistor is soldered into the holes of Q8, the place of Q11 is left free. The “+” M3 pin is connected to the plus of the board power supply, and the “-” M3 pin is connected to the 2T836B emitter.

It is possible that the receiver board was intended for another product, and was subsequently adapted to this model of the machine. It is possible that only part of the machines of this series got the defective board.

Due to the increase in the resistance of the contacts of the SF2 and SF3 micro-switches, they were washed, for which the rear axle of the machine had to be disassembled. In the control panel, the SQ1 and SQ2 sensors have been replaced by pushbutton switches installed on the back of the control panel. Machine control has become more convenient. The plastic tube, designed to support the antenna wire of the machine in an upright position, broke, and we had to install a removable antenna on the machine.

After repairs and alterations, the machine has been working without breakdowns for many months.

Bibliography:
1. Website http://service.dickietoys.de
2. Internet site http://www.masteraero.ru "How to remake and install radio control equipment from Chinese toys ..." Author V. Saveliev
3. Internet site http: // supreg 1. narod.ru "Receiver for radio-controlled toys" Author Martemyanov A.

Nowadays it's hard to surprise some new model car, but here vehicle hand-made has always attracted attention and excitement. A person making a car with his own hands will face two scenarios. The first is admiration for the creation, and the second is the smile of others at the sight of an invention. If you look at it, then there is nothing difficult in assembling a car with your own hands. A self-taught engineer is only required to know the design of the car and the basic properties of its parts.

Historical facts

Certain historical conditions preceded the start of car construction. During the existence of the union, mass production cars. They could not meet the individual needs of the consumer. That is why self-taught inventors began to look for ways out of this situation and did it by designing home-made cars.

In order to make one car with your own hands, three non-working ones were required, of which all were removed necessary spare parts... If we take into account the people living in remote villages, then they most often improved various bodies, thereby increasing their capacity. Cars began to appear that had high cross-country ability and could even overcome water. In short, all efforts were devoted to simplifying life.

A separate category of people attached great importance to the appearance of the car, and not just its technical properties. In addition to beautiful cars, sports cars were made, which were not much inferior to factory copies. All these inventions not only amazed others, but also became full-fledged participants in the road traffic.

In times Soviet Union there were no specific restrictions on homemade vehicles. Bans appeared in the 80s. They concerned only certain parameters and technical characteristics of the car. But most people could get around them by registering one vehicle with the relevant authorities under the guise of a completely different one.

What you need to assemble a car

To proceed directly to the assembly process itself, you need to think over everything in detail. You need to clearly understand how to do future car and what technical characteristics he must have. First, you need to determine for what purposes the car will be used, and then implement the idea. If you need a frank workhorse, then in order to do it yourself, you will need special materials and details. It is also important to make the body and frame of the car as resistant to loads as possible. When a car is made only for driving, the question is only in its appearance.

How to make a car with your own hands for a child, you can learn from the following video:

How to make drawings

You should not trust your head and imagination, it would be better and more correct to think about exactly what the car should be. Then transfer all available considerations to paper. Then it is possible to correct something and as a result, a drawn copy will appear. future car... Sometimes for full confidence two drawings are made. The first depicts appearance the car, and on the second a more detailed image of the main parts in detail. Before drawing, you need to prepare everything necessary tools, that is, a pencil, eraser, drawing paper and a ruler.

Nowadays, there is no need to draw a picture for a long time using a regular pencil. To facilitate this task, there are special programs with wide capabilities and with their help you can make any drawing.

Advice! If there are no engineering programs, then the usual Word test editor will help in this situation.

With a strong desire, you can make any car with your own hands. If there are no own considerations, then ready-made ideas and drawings can be borrowed. This is possible because most people involved in the creation of homemade cars do not hide their ideas, but, on the contrary, present them to the public.

Kit-cars

In the vastness of the countries of Europe and America, the so-called "kit-cars" have become widespread. So what is it? This is a certain number of different parts with which you can make a car with your own hands. Kit cars have become so popular that many options have appeared that allow you to fold any desired car model. The main difficulty is not in the assembly, but in the registration of the car obtained as a result of the assembly.

To fully work with the kit car, you must have a spacious garage. It also requires toolboxes and knowledge. If you do not have certain skills, then the work will not give the desired result. If the work is done with the help of assistants, the assembly process will be faster and more fruitful.

This kit includes everything from small screws and instructions to large parts. For a full-fledged work, there should be no serious difficulties. It should be noted that the instructions are not in printed form, but are presented in a video master class, where everything is considered to the smallest detail.

It is very important to assemble the vehicle correctly. This is necessary in order for the creation to comply with all the standards and norms prescribed in the regulations of the traffic police. Since the failure to comply with the points leads to problems with the installation of the vehicle on record with the relevant authorities.

Advice! If possible, then you can consult with experts in this field.

You can learn more about what kit cars are and how to make them from the following video:

Designing a car using materials at hand

To make your assembly task as easy as possible homemade car, as a basis, you can take the base of any other car that is fully functional. Best to take a budget option, since it is never known which direction the experiments will lead. If there are old worn parts, then they must be replaced with serviceable ones. If possible, you can make parts with your own hands on lathes, but this is if you have professional skills.

First of all, you need to start assembling the car with the body, instruments and necessary interior parts. Modern inventors use fiberglass for the bodywork, and before that there was no such material, and plywood and tin material were used.

Attention! Fiberglass is a sufficiently elastic material that allows you to implement any idea, even the most unusual and original.

The availability of materials, spare parts and other components makes it possible to design a car that, in terms of external parameters and appearance, will not be inferior to the car models of the world's leading car manufacturers. This requires ingenuity, good imagination and some knowledge.

DIY supercar:

Fiberglass car construction

Start assembling a car made of fiberglass from the moment you select a suitable chassis. After that, the selection of the necessary units is carried out. Then it is worth moving on to the layout of the interior and the fastening of the seats. Upon completion of this, the chassis is reinforced. The frame must be very reliable and strong, since all the main parts of the car will be mounted on it. The more accurate the dimensions of the space frame, the better the fit of the parts.

For the manufacture of the body, it is best to use fiberglass. But first you need to make a base, that is, a frame. Foam sheets can be attached to the surface of the frame, as closely as possible to the existing drawings. Then, as needed, holes are cut, and, if there is a need, the parameters are adjusted. After that, fiberglass is attached to the surface of the foam, which is putty and cleaned on top. It is not necessary to use foam, any other material that has high level plasticity. This material can be a continuous canvas of sculptural plasticine.

It should be noted that fiberglass tends to deform during operation. The reason is the impact high temperatures... To maintain the shape of the structure, it is necessary with inner side strengthen the frame with pipes. All excess parts of fiberglass must be removed, but this should be done after it is completely dry. If everything is done correctly and there are no other works regarding the design, you can proceed to the interior equipment and electronics fasteners.

If in the future it is planned to re-design, then a special matrix can be made. Thanks to her, the body making process will be faster and easier. The matrix is ​​applicable not only to make a vehicle with your own hands from scratch, but also to improve the condition of your own car. Paraffin is taken for manufacturing. To get a flat surface, you need to paint it on top. This will increase the convenience of fastening parts for the new car body.

Attention! With the help of a matrix, the entire body is made completely. But there is an exception - this is the hood and doors.

Conclusion

In order to implement the existing idea and make a car with your own hands, there are a number of suitable options. All sorts of working details will be helpful here.

With your own hands, you can make not only a passenger car, but also a larger and powerful truck... In some countries, craftsmen manage to earn decent money from this. They make cars to order. Cars with various original details body.

How to make a Porsche with your own hands:

This article is a modeller's story about making a homemade radio-controlled model of an all-wheel drive car. Range rover from a plastic model. It reveals the nuances of manufacturing axle drives, installing electronics and many other nuances.

So, I decided to make a car model with my own hands!

Bought a regular Range Rovera bench model from the store. The price of this model is 1500 rubles, in general it is a little expensive, but the model is worth it! Initially I thought of making a hummer, but this model is much more suitable in design.

I had electronics, well, I took some spare parts from a trophy collector called "cat" which I didn't need for a long time and was disassembled for parts!

Of course, it was possible to take other prefabricated models as a basis, but I wanted just such an off-road jeep.

It all started with bridges and differentials that I made from copper pipes and soldered with an ordinary 100w soldering iron. Differentials are ordinary here, the gear is plastic, the rods and the drive bones are made of iron from the trophy.

These tubes can be purchased at any hardware store.


I took the differential gear from a conventional printer. I didn't need him for a long time, and so I decided that it was time for him to retire.

Everything turned out quite reliably, but it is rather inconvenient to work with a soldering iron!

After I made the differentials, I had to close them with something, I closed them with caps from under the pills.

And painted it with ordinary auto enamel. It turned out beautifully, although the trophy drinker hardly needs beauty.

Then it was necessary to make steering rods and put the bridges on the frame, the frame was included and to my surprise it turned out to be iron, not plastic.

It was quite difficult to do this, since the scale of the parts is very small and it was not possible to solder here, I had to screw it with bolts. I took the steering rods from the same old trophy case that I disassembled.

All the parts of the differentials are on bearings. As I have been making the model for a long time.

I also ordered a gearbox with a reduction gear, the gear will be turned on by a microservice from the remote control.

Well, in general, then I installed a plastic bottom, cut out a hole in it, installed a gearbox, cardan shafts, a homemade gearbox, an ordinary collector engine for such a small model, there is no point in setting the bk, and the speed is not important to me.

The engine is from a helicopter, but in the gearbox it is quite powerful.

The most important thing is that the model does not go in jerks, but smoothly without delay, the gearbox was not easy to make, but the main thing is ingenuity.

The gearbox was screwed to the bottom, it held up perfectly, but to attach the bottom to the frame I had to tinker.

Then I installed electronics, shock absorbers, and a battery. At first I put the electronics rather weak and the regulator and the receiver were a single whole, but then I put everything separately and the electronics were more powerful.

And finally, painting, installing all the main units, decals, headlights and more. I painted everything with usual paint for plastic in 4 layers, then painted the wings brown and sanded the parts to give a worn and worn look.

The body of the model and the color are completely original, the color was found on the Internet and photos real car I did everything according to the original. This combination of colors exists on a real machine and was painted in this color at the factory.

Well, here are the final photos. I will add a video with the test a little later, and the model turned out to be very passable, the speed was 18 km / h, but I did not make it for speed. In general, I am satisfied with my work, and you will appreciate it.

The machine is not large, scale 1k24 in size and there is the whole point of the idea, I wanted myself a mini trophy.

The model is not afraid of moisture! He sealed everything himself, he simply covered the electronics with varnish, very reliably, no moisture is terrible.

Servomachine micro park from the plane to 3.5 kg.

The battery is enough for 25 minutes of riding, but I will put more powerful electronics and a battery, because this is not quite enough.

Even the bumpers are the same as on the original. And the mounts on them are the same. The drive on it is not 50 to 50%, but 60 to 40%.

In general, the Range Rover turned out in a rustic style, I did not even think that it would turn out to paint so high-quality because I don't really know how to paint, although there is nothing difficult!

I forgot to add for beauty, I also installed a roll cage and a full-fledged spare tire. The spare wheel and frame were included with the kit.

More about radio-controlled models:

Mishania comments:

Tell me how it works four-wheel drive, inside the bridge, what is there for the hand-outs? There should be rounded fist after all.

Agricultural walk-behind tractors have one serious drawback - the operator has to walk along the treated area with them on foot. As a result, fatigue sets in rather quickly, and the time to complete the work increases, which leads to a sharp decrease in the efficiency of labor costs. Another thing is a mini-tractor, which has a full wheel base and steering... But not everyone can afford to buy such equipment. Therefore, in the agricultural environment, you can increasingly find home-made mini tractors, which are designed on the basis of professional or semi-professional walk-behind tractors.

Converting a walk-behind tractor into a mini tractor: highlights

Unlike amateur equipment, professional and semi-professional equipment has more power. For example, from a walk-behind tractor with diesel engine 9 hp you can make a pretty decent mini-tractor for plowing and cultivation. Ultimately, it all depends on the goals that the owner of the modifiable vehicle is going to achieve.

Design and assembly homemade mini tractor- the task is not easy, but doable. And to successfully solve it, you need to focus on two points:

1. Development of a body and frame, as well as a diagram of their connection with the basis of a mini-tractor - a walk-behind tractor.
2. Development of kinematic diagram.

The homemade frame and body are made of metal corners or profiled pipes. When calculating the structure, it is necessary to take into account the ratio of its weight to the power of the motor, as well as the resistance that the machine will overcome when performing different types works.

If you choose a powerful walk-behind tractor as the basis for a home-made mini tractor, this allows you to use ready-made car or motorcycle trailers. Moreover, the leading manufacturers of motoblocks have long provided for the constructive possibility of connecting such trailers to manufactured equipment.

The kinematic diagram of a home-made mini-tractor is a set of design solutions that provide the transfer of torque from the motor-block engine to the drive (mainly rear) wheels. When calculating, it is necessary to distribute the load on the driving axle evenly - both reliability and durability, and functionality, that is, the possibility of using technology, directly depend on this.

DIY mini tractor: where to start?

In fact, there are many options for self-designing a mini tractor. However, the principles are used everywhere approximately the same:

1. swivels towards the operator and locks onto the frame.
2. Control is carried out using steering rods.
3. The hydraulic drum brake is applied.
4. Pedal control is used for brake and clutch.
5. For the accelerator and attachments manual control is applied.
6. The operator's seat is located above the rear drive axle.

One of the most simple ways creating a mini tractor with your own hands is buying an adapter - a two-wheeled cart with a seat for the operator and an aggregate system (for installing attachments).

Obviously, various parts will be needed to assemble a mini tractor. They can be easily found among automobiles. For example, a drum brake for driving wheels, steering rack and foot control units can be taken from passenger car WHA. In the same way - by searching on the auto parts market - the seat and other structural parts for a homemade mini-tractor are selected.

But in addition to spare parts, you must have at hand a whole arsenal of tools - a welding machine, a drill, a circular saw, wrenches, etc. And it is very desirable that in the process of assembling a mini tractor you have access to a specially equipped workshop or, if necessary, can use the services of specialists in welding, milling, plumbing and car repair.

Mini tractor frame

The chassis is the basis of the mini tractor. Its main quality should be reliability, however, you need to carefully monitor the total weight of the structure in order to ensure normal adhesion of the wheelbase to the soil when performing work and at the same time not overload the engine.

For the manufacture of the frame of a homemade medium-power mini-tractor, a lightweight channel, a profiled pipe or a metal corner is suitable. The dimensions of the structure, which is assembled by welding, must correspond to the dimensions of the machine. Along the frame contour, it is necessary to make holes for mounting and fixing the structural elements of the minitractor.

The ratio of frame weight and strength should be optimal. It is not worth overloading the structure with additional stiffening ribs, as well as saving on metal, sacrificing overall reliability indicators.

Before you start assembling the frame, you need to decide which trailers and you are going to use when working with it. And in order not to lose thought in the design process, before starting work, drawings of the future machine and its main units with basic dimensions should be completed. To do this, you can use ready-made documentation that needs to be adapted to the specific parameters of your mini tractor.

Front and rear axles

These assemblies are created from individual parts and assemblies taken from cars or even trucks or other agricultural machinery. However, you will have to do some details yourself, as well as the assembly itself.

To make a front axle, you will need:

• cross beam;
• bushings for supporting pivot axes;
• axle bushings;
• push the wheels;
• (ball and roller);
• bolted connections.

A section of a profiled pipe or metal corner will perfectly cope with the function of a crossbeam. Structural steel 45 is suitable for the manufacture of half-axle bushings. The slewing bearings are made of a profiled pipe, modified for the installation of bearings, and are closed with steel covers made of steel grade st3. Knot front axle consisting of a cylindrical cage and roller bearings welded to the center of the crossbeam. Using large bolts, the bridge must be fixed to the bushings in the crossbeam of the frame.

The tightening force of the bolted connections is responsible for the amount of play of the front axle relative to the design of the minitractor. Too rigid, as well as too loose fastening negatively affects the driving comfort, therefore the play must be optimal.

The assembly of the rear axle is carried out in a similar way. The finished structure can be borrowed, say, from a UAZ car. The long stocking of such a bridge will need to be shortened so that standard short axle shafts can be used. It will not hurt to protect the rear axle, or rather its welded joints from possible impacts during operation. For this, a support is used - a metal corner, applied along the welded seams of the prefabricated bridge structure.

Wheelbase and kinematic diagram

The choice of wheels for a homemade mini tractor deserves special attention. It is quite possible to use wheels from passenger car, however, the dimension must be observed here. Optimal dimensions rims for are 12-14 inches. When choosing a smaller diameter, there is a risk that the machine will bury its nose into the ground during operation. On the other hand, if the front wheels are too large, the operator will have to exert tremendous effort to complete the maneuvers. However, to facilitate the process of controlling the machine, you can always use the power steering from a car or other agricultural machinery.

Mini tractor wheel tires must have developed lugs. This will increase the maneuverability of the machine, reduce the load on undercarriage and will facilitate the management process.

As for the kinematic diagram, it is better to use ready-made options, which currently does not take a lot of effort to find. The scheme must be adapted to the parameters of the nodes that you are going to use to create a mini tractor. It will be useful to consider the possibility of connecting attachments, which will greatly increase the functionality of a home-made machine.

Control system and operator's seat

After the manufacture and installation of the chassis, you can proceed to the implementation of the kinematic diagram and installation of the control system. The most important thing in this business is to place it correctly. Will handle this role perfectly front seat from a passenger car, which is easy to find at car services and in workshops engaged in disassembling vehicles.

The steering wheel should be set to the optimum height for the operator. The steering wheel should not interfere with the free placement of the knees - it must be mounted so that when sitting, working with it does not cause discomfort.

All the necessary parts for foot, hand and lever control of the machine and its functional units can be found in the same place as the seat and all other spare parts - in the workshops or on the market.

Engine installation and bodywork

After assembling the undercarriage, implementing the kinematic diagram and installing the operator's seat with the control system, you can proceed to the installation of the main unit of the minitractor - the engine. To securely fix it on the frame, you should use a special slotted plate - it will also give the chassis additional rigidity. Next, you need to lay the electrical and mechanical circuits of the control system, connect and configure the operation of the control system.

The body cladding is made at the request of the user, however, it is still better to close some components and structural elements. This will prevent contamination and failure in case of contact with foreign objects and soil.

In this material, we present to your attention an overview of the video on making a typewriter with a motor.

So, we need:
- 3-volt motor from a cassette player;
- 3 penlight batteries;
- metal washer;
- insulating tape;
- toy car.

We disassemble the machine and cut out the mechanism mentioned above.

We install a block of batteries on the roof of the car.