Homemade folding tractor. Make a minitractor with your own hands. Wheel base and kinematic scheme

Having a house in a village or a country area, each spring has to pierce a vegetable garden. And if in the village it is done in one day, ordering the tractor, then everything is not so simple in the country area. After all, the entire territory of the cottage is surrounded by a fence, so the tractor is almost impossible to come there.

Then you have to dig up. However, not all dachas suits it. You can, of course, buy a motoblock, but this pleasure is not everyone can afford, and many dacms dream of having their own minitractor.

In order to make a minitractor with your own hands, you need to start with the basics, that is, the frames.

It is the most important part for our technical means, because you will place the remaining details on it.

First of all, you must draw a detailed drawing of the frame.

For its manufacture, use lightweight metal chawliers. They are connected to each other, applying automatic or semi-automatic welding. Also note that the length and width of the frame should be proportional to the size of the future product.

The minitractor will be collected on this basis. To do this, in the frame on all sides, drill holes in order to fix various attachments.

Also remember that you will need to attach a footboard from two sides. They are made from the eight-graded steel sheet "ST-3". From it will also make the steering column.

To make a minitractor with your own hands more durable, supply segments that are located across. At the same time use the same steel from which the steps were made.

Now weld to the heart of the sleeve, which will serve as ships for the bridge. They produce them using sheet metal "ST-3" thick two centimeters. Next, attach the front and rear axle.

Bridges need to be made with their own hands, using separately taken parts from a similar type of technology (for example, you can use bridges for this purpose, taken from Muscovite or twenty-fourth Volga). However, in this situation they will be too cumbersome and will not suit us in order to make a minitractor with their own hands. So some details will have to be pulled out "from scratch", be ready for this morally.

What components do you have to do with your own hands?

It is necessary to pull the rotary sleeves and the supporting semi-axes. It will also be necessary to make a transverse beam. To do this take a pipe that has square cross section Size sixty-five per sixty-five millimeters. Metal thickness should be five millimeters. From this pipe, measure the desired length and cut off using a grinder or a pylon for metal.

If you did not find the pipe of this size, the crossbought can be made with your own hands using metal corners. Using structural steel, make the sleeve in order to secure the semi-axes. Rotary mechanism make using metal pipe segments. The pipe that is used for this should have a cross section seventy to fourteen millimeters.

Sut slices from it, each of which should have a length of one hundred and twenty millimeters. Bearings will be located on metal in specially done seats.

Then this item must be covered with a welded sheet of metal. In the middle, weld the finished part, which consists of two bearings and cylindrical closures.

Some details about the rear axle

You can not do it with your own hands, but take it ready from the Volga. However, remember that the minitractor has a width of less than the rear axle, so you must reduce the length of the bridge so that eighty centimeters are as a result. To achieve this goal, remove locking stockings and fill rivets. The rest of the pushing inland. Disconnect the bridge and the gearbox can be using a sledgehammer. Do not forget to fix the first element using a special mandrel.

After these actions, you can ensure a reliable connection to the reverse gear that it will absolutely eliminate the likelihood of the cardan breakdown. And you can not take care of how to install and balance the counterweight, which will greatly speed up the time of making a minitractor.

Stockings that you have rooted, lock in the holes, cutting the thread M-12 and screwing into it the screws. Now fasten the resulting bridge to eight steel plates. You must welcome them using M-10 bolts. Each plate need to fight four bolts. After that, fasten the frame using nuts and spars. Spring washers control the connections. For this purpose on the bridge you need to privar the same steel plates.

At the end, under the frame fastening, you install the required number of brackets. To do lifting mechanism, The shaft of the body of the lifting mechanism must be welded to the Carter of the bridge.

At the final stage, weld a chair to the tractor and paint all the metal parts of the product of paint any color. Do not forget to the back of the frame to install a coupling structure so that you can attach a plow.

Second way

It is simpler than the first, but you must buy a motoblock, while you can even use the "Ural" still Soviet production.

Now you need to remove the engine from it, this is the main traction device. All that will remain can be used as spare parts.

You also need a starting mechanism and two bridges with wheels.

An interesting technical solution of a long-standing design problem, which makes it possible to minimize the risk of damaging the plants in the processing of part-time of the disappeared crops mini-tractor, proposed V. Chirkov from the Lotoshin's working village.
The width of the rut can easily change. As they say, on request! After all, the front axle has a mini-tractor - sliding, and the desired width of the gauge on the rear bridge (taken from the GAZ-51 car with the subsequent shortening of it according to the original method) is achieved by replacing the conventional wheel (right) to special, with a weld hub.

To beginners in creating self-made means I do not ratify yourself with a small mechanization. At least for the reason that many of my developments have long been "replicated" by other lovers to make it all with their own hands, and the best, such as the mini MT-5 tractor, won the awards even the main exhibition of the country. But the traction is special to the motoblocks do not feel. Especially - to "industrial". It is painfully much revealed from them often flaws. Details break, "burn" belt transmission. And what to restore! In addition to everything too, in my opinion, there are easy motoblocks for soil processing under potatoes: dropping. Mow - also children's fun. As, however, and when providing transport work (complete with a trailed trolley).

I am convinced: the farm needs a more versatile and strong mechanical assistant - a mini tractor with his own hands. It is not indifferent in the creation of such machines: the seventh on the account. The new development (MT-7) has several large dimensions - it is by as much as 650 mm longer. It would be possible to squeeze the entire design (see illustrations) and in previous sizes, I will have a good combined gearbox instead of two, sequentially connected. But, alas: self-delayers often with wide opportunities in purchasing the necessary nodes and blocks are not at all. Take another - natural upholstery.

In particular, I managed to comply with everything that the maneuverability of the new, more powerful than the previous designs, the mini-tractor remained almost the same as MT-5. Mostly due to the removal of the engine forward, like everyone else's famous "Kirovs". Although ultra-high maneuverability of this car during plowing is not so needed. After all, with a width of a grip of 500 mm and more can be at the end of each run and not unfold, and ... Serve back. Especially since the speed of the new homemade mini tractor at plowing of the Earth is 2 times more than that of MT-5.

We collect a minitractor with your own hands for free

Take, for example, the primary shaft of the gearbox from the GAZ-51 car. Using in KP-51 in the design of the homemade mini tractor, it is difficult to keep it from the temptation to shorten it. But after all, cutting the shaft, remove the most perhaps, valuable slots. And now it is already for fixing the stars, gears on the shaft on the shaft. You have to drill a hole in it under the bolt or shock the groove to the key. Excess, in my opinion, work! In addition, the bolt is not a slot: with a large load, it can simply cut it. And be a self-dealer. Prudnive, do not shock, beat the shaft - no problems will arise. On the slot, after all, a clutch disc with remote lining, to which you can attach an elementary any detail: flange, an asterisk, etc. In addition, there is enough space for the shaft to install additional facilities for the selection of power for other units: water pump, and haymaking, Circular saw ...

No alterations, no improvements and power aggregate, Which is used almost a sure-minded engine from a 55 liter gas-69 car. C, together with its gearbox (having three speeds ahead and one back) and clutch. The torque with KP-69, which is in this case the primary gearbox is transmitted to KP-51 directly, without "soft" compounds, thanks to flanges, fan-foam tight bolts. Similarly, the connection of KP-51 with the flange of the Kardan installed on the lead gear the main transfer. Dissars here, naturally, are not allowed.

The exact center of the longitudinal installation line of the sequentially connected force transmission nodes from the engine to the rear axle wheels can be observed if the pre-assembly itself is said, as they say, by weight, having all on the stands so that the nodes are in the same horizontal plane. Having achieved the absence of beats, the bolts on the flanges (clutches) are hardly fixed. Then we carry the design on the mini-tractor frame, which is an equilibried trapezium (2400 mm high, with the bases of 680 mm and 730 mm), made of 120x50 mm channels on welding, wide ass outward. Power and running circles are fixed "at the place", producing the final refinement of kinematics (so that anywhere there is no distortion). Then test the entire design. Let the engine work for a while, for which they raise the rear wheels above the ground on goats. Making sure that everything is in order, install the rest of the nodes and parts into place. Actually, I am not a supporter of blind copying whose one, even if the most successful, development.

I am convinced: rationally only to focus on the scheme chosen as a prototype, using those details and opportunities in its design, which this self-dealer has. Therefore, telling about MT-7, deliberately omit descriptions and specific sizes of brackets, struts and other "small things", features of fastening of certain parts, nodes. Each of his forces and abilities themselves will solve the questions arising in the manufacture of a mini-tractor, including - about replacing, say, the second, additional box Gears from the gas-Si car with a power outlet box and a NSH oil pump (that, for example, you did not turn out at hand) to similar, taken from other techniques. Combining them into a single whole, we just need not to forget: KP-51 teeth gears are straight, small; Other teeth and the step of their cuts are different. So, you need and corresponding power take-off boxes.

Hydronasos Benzo and oil-resistant armored standard hoses with oil distributor (of any type) and a hydraulic fiber, a power cylinder for lifting attached units, a bulldozer shovel, as well as the tipping mechanism of the trailer body.
The instrument shield is combined. The panel is taken from the car KRAZ, index devices - from other machines with a 12-volt voltage.
On the right front wing MT-7 cut rectangular hole - in order to see the position of the wheel when controlling its stroke during the dip.

Homemade minitractor bridges

Transforming front axle

"Highlight" in the design of MT-7 is transforming front axle. The use of this technical solution allows you to easily and quickly change the width of the mini-tractor, which becomes a truly reliable mechanical assistant not only when plowing the field, the garden, the fulfillment of other (familiar for these kinds of such) operations; It is possible to perfectly handle the banging, plant and dip potatoes, other root plates, taking into account the recommendations of science and practice.

At the heart of the idea proposed by me - telescopically moved to each other structural elements. In this case, the size of the design itself is significantly changed. For example, when the potatoes are dipped, the front wheels MT-7 move apart from each other, and the width of the rut becomes not 1080 mm, as usual, and 1400 mm. DLV beds chopped every 700 mm, this is the optimal option.

And so favorable innovation is achieved very simple. Instead of a single transverse badge, two channels are taken: 120x50 mm and 100x50 mm bonded with each other three ML2 bolts. The length of the chavelers, respectively, 680 mm and 730 mm. When expanding the bar, BOPTs are unscrewed. The upper schwelper, pegko sliding along the bottom, is put forward at the desired distance (in this despite 320 mm). Then both schweller are bolted again.
Naturally, when the front bridge is slipped, it is necessary to increase the length of the transverse thrust. The latter is made up of two segments of steel corners embedded in each other and bonded with three three bolts M8. When you change the cops, the bolts are unscrewed. Sliding the transverse traction to the desired length, rebel the corners with bolts.

Rear axle for a minitractor: Long - to shorten!
The rear axle from the GAZ-51 car is attractive for many amateur designers of mini-equipment. With its reliability, availability, finally. But walled ...

Before the case it is necessary, of course, to clean the ZM, removing the solar oil and on the licking dirt. Then the rear axle disassembled on the highways. Unscrew the appropriate nuts, remove the semi-axes (see Fig.), And sawing Carter, withdraw differential.

On the stockings of the ZM sharp chisel, the hats rivets are cut off and with the help of a bandy "interpret" them inside, so that then a sledgehammer carefully knock out the housing stockings. If necessary, sometimes there are landing places to warm up the solder lamp. And in order to subsequently not suffer when assembling, achieving accurate combination of interconnected parts with each other, is to take care of the timely application on stockings and the case of special rice differential (chisel, before the disconnection of the components).

Stockings are pulled by the diameter of the planting surface to the spring pillow, after which the left cutter is shortened by 180 mm, and the right - by 235 mm on the part of the differential. Cropped stockings are inserted back into their landing sockets. And in order to thoroughly fix them, through the old holes in the differential, where the rivets were knocked out inside, drilled in new stockings. The former (or made specifically with a diameter of 0.1 mm large) rivets are driven into these holes and brewed with electric welding. After assembling the entire bridge, it is installed on a mini-tractor. This zm is attached to the frame on M12 bolts passing through the holes, prudently done in the right places. Size A (see Fig.) Selects so that minimum width King on the rear bridge was 1000 mm.

As for the semi-axes, they are brought away from the oppints side strictly in the center to a depth equal to the thickness of this flange itself. The diameter of the drill is a little less than the diameter of the semi-axis. Next, it is flipped with a drill diameter to the corresponding length (see Fig., Size b). For the right half, it will be 235 mm. And for the left - 180 mm. Each inserted into its flange and on both sides is thoroughly brewed (applying electric welding, not autogen!] So that the metal does not have "released", periodically coolently cooled with a flange with water. Then the semi-axes are shortened, removing the cutter on the lathe is all unnecessary.

Features of execution other nodesand the elements of the front bridge are clear from the illustrations. I will only note that from the bottom, in the middle of the transverse beam-Švepper 120x50 mm, the sleeve is welded, which is a segment of a steel seamless pipe 30x5 mm (GOST 8734-75) 120 mm long. The sleeve is inserted in the form of Bopt M20 passing through holes in two transverse brackets (made from angle 50x50 mm), screwed to the mini-tractor frame symmetrically relative to the composite transverse beam. The latter balances on the axis-bolt, turning when driving on uneven soil at an angle, limited on both sides by the stops from the corner of 45x45 mm. Brackets for more rigid fixation are additionally reinforced with two braces connected to the MII-tractor frame.

Steering column- From the car UAZ-452. My mechanical assistant is located with right side. Therefore, the fastening of the steering mechanism with the steering drive on MT-7 in itself does not represent. As for the lever, it is removed from Spitz and then, turning, start up, but already in a vertical position.

Cross steering! With all the unusualness of its sliding, the constructive above design, it is not so difficult to produce this important link. Especially for someone who is well acquainted with gas-select scab. After all, it is necessary to quickly welcome the tips with the ball fingers to the elementary system of two sliding angles of 30x30 mm, fastened by three bolts M8.

Minitractor do it yourself drawings, sizes

Wheels for minitractor

It is easy to notice that from the usual it is removable, used only when working with an extended rut, the wheel is characterized by a welded hub. Located between the "main" and "ring" parts of the drive cut by the autogen, the latter as it would increase the back of the rear beam. And instead of the standard for MT-7, the gauge on the rear axle - 1000 mm - it turns out (taking into account the "automotive" method of fastening this Coppens) 1400 mm.
In the sputum from the front wheels having a tire 6.5-16 (from the Volga car), the rear copes at MT-7 - with tires from tractor MTZ-52, which (6.5-20) size (6.5-20) makes it easy to mount them on the disks Coppes from the GAZ-51 car. The removable wheel here is also no exception.

Figure tread - "in the Christmas tree". To increase the coupling mass of the mini-tractor, you can recommend the arrogance of removable cargo or filling the chamber through the valve by about 2D with water volume (with the onset of low temperatures - with a 25% aqueous solution of calcium chloride, freezing with minus 32 ° C). With increasing soil moisture, when the mutual connection of its particles is violated, the increase in the force of the thrust above is not ensured. In these cases, it is advisable to reduce tire pressure.

Hinged equipment for a minitractor

I recommend for plowing to acquire single and two-hour plows that can be made on your own. These soil-productive guns are installed in the sockets of a special frame: welded, from the 80x x40 mm channel (see the photo of a minitractor, according to UKR. MINIA TRACTER), Special adjustment mechanism, rubberized wheel and actuator hydraulic suspension. And since MT-7, with plowing, the right wheels go through the furrow, the plows are installed in advance with such a deviation from the vertical to the right so that during operation they adopted perpendicular position (compensation gives the inclination of the mini tractor body).

Accordingly, the sock of each plow must be deployed to 1-2 degrees, but already left. Then the resistance of the Earth, "choosing" all the gaps, will deploy the car (again to the right), and both instruments will be in the longitudinal plane of the mini-tractor.

Cutting Grocery is carried out by three sakers (see the appropriate illustration). When planting tubers, the skiepers are rearranged respectively into other nests, and at one side of the mini-tractor, the tubers planted into the ready-made furrow fall asleep on both sides by the ranks. At the same time, the third rank, installed to the left of the second one by 350 mm and slightly behind it, cuts a new furrow for landing the club next bed. That is, in one pass, MT-7 performs the bolding of the previous, and the preparation of a new furrow.

When the front axle is emphasized the front axle, as already mentioned earlier, it is moved from one left side to a rut 1400 mm. The rear left wheel is replaced with another - special, with a welded elongated hub (see option in the photo). And damage to the processed potatoes does not occur.

The use of minitractors in agriculture becomes more and more justified lately. Relatively small dimensions, coupled with good performance and maneuverability, allow to process land ownership for their further use. However, not everyone has the possibility of acquiring a finished unit selling in a specialized store, because it can cost up to 100 thousand rubles. It is then that many questions arise from many - how to assemble a minitractor at home with your own hands?

The solution is not such a simple, as it may seem at first glance, because for the implementation of the assembly, there may be quite a few concomitant material, as well as the necessary technical knowledge and the ability to work with the toolkit.

Applications of the homemade minitractor in the household

Yes, and in general, you can use the Internet, driven in the address bar "Minitractor do it yourself drawings sizes", and you will immediately see not one detailed schema assembly.

Rama, is a supporting structure. All attachments attached to it.

This step is very important, because the independent manufacture of any unit involves a certain refinement and fit under the necessary parameters. Obviously, it is easier to carry out this in the drawing than to navigate approximately.

For successful and productive housekeeping, an appropriate agricultural machinery is necessary. Turning to read how to make a cultivator yourself.

Plows have improved characteristics, which makes it possible to cope with the plowing of any land as quickly and efficiently as possible. All about various types and characteristics of PSK.

Currently, technical progress helps to replace long human labor for much more operational operations of machines. Combine harvester Polesie is your indispensable assistant with excellent quality for decades.

In addition, it will be clear to the same Tokary that it takes from it by looking at a detailed drawing than a formal explanation in words.

At the project planning stage, and it turns out exactly which unit will be in the end. Many have a certain popularity of a minitractor of a fracture with their own hands at home located on the articulated frame.

However, this is not the only way to build, so the choice lies solely on that person who will carry out the manufacture.

Deciding with a minitractor type, the question arises about the search necessary spare parts and components. This is about frame design, engine, transmission, controls and wheelbase. Most of this can be found on the Internet by visiting sites specializing in the realization of various spare parts.

The assembly process itself will include several stages:

• Making frame. The fracture is carried out mainly from the channel number 5 and channel number 9. From these components you need to cook two semirams, and they will be connected with each other with a hinge. In this capacity can be used cardan shafts from heavy trucks.

• There is another way to design a frame. It lies in the manufacture of a solid design consisting of two traverses and two spars. Traverts are made from channel number 16 (for the rear) and number 12 (for the front).
• The spars will be made from the channel number 10. A timber from metal is used as crossbar.
• As an engine, you can use MT-9, UD-2, UD-4, and PR. Their power will be quite enough for the self-made option. In principle, any engine with a relatively high power is suitable - approximately 40 hp
• Both and the gearbox can be removed from GAZ-53, and the clutch take from GAZ-52. Remember that the details will have to be customized under the design parameters. A motor flywheel needs to cut a little back, as well as drill a hole in the center.
• The steering wheel can be provided with a hydraulic system that needs to be taken with old agricultural machinery.
• The design of the rear axle can be borrowed from old cars, but it will have to correct it to the lathe on the lathe.
• You can use any suitable as wheels, but that their diameter is about 18 inches is a permissible minimum for agricultural work.
• In this sequence, in principle, the answer lies to the question - how to make a minitractor at home? Most of the necessary components can be obtained from old technology, which greatly simplifies the search for the search for the desired detail.

In addition, the costs are minimal, because even the purchased items will cost much less than the finished minitractor.

Advantages and disadvantages of manual assembly

Perhaps the main advantage of the homemade minitractor is the unconditional savings moneyCompared to the acquisition of full-fledged aggregates in the store, such as.

At the same time, his working indicators will dismremely different from the factory options, because the design uses a fairly powerful motor, which is enough to process land possessions, up to ten hectares.

The cost of making on a minitractor pays for almost one calendar year, because most of the components are taken from the old technique, or the cost of their acquisition is minimal. Many adapt to a minitractor to other techniques, such as a motoblock, which further simplifies the assembly process.

In addition, self-made aggregates have other advantages:

• Relatively large degree of immersion in the soil. If everything competently foresee, the depth of the epigation will be identical to the one that shows purchased counterparts. Be that as it may, it is still better than to drag the garden manually.
• Quite high mobility, as a result of sufficiently modest dimensions. The use of such aggregates is advisable precisely on small gardens and summer cottages, where the large-sized tractors do not turn around.
• Due to the fact that you make a minitractor ourselves, there is an opportunity to further upgrade the unit. You can shoot components by changing them to other, more powerful, or add new devices.
• In the network sold, such an opportunity is absent, moreover, in the instructions for the operation, it is directly written that the introduction of any changes to the configuration is strictly prohibited.

Among the shortcomings, the following points can be noted:

• Relatively complex assembly process. Here we are talking not only about direct work, but also about certain difficulties in the selection of the necessary components. Many of them have to customize on the lathe, which in itself is an additional complexity.
• The probability of breakdowns, because the homemade version is made mainly from old parts and spare parts.

In principle, the pros and cons are approximately equal to the degree of their importance, but there is one small retreat. Today's realities are such that the question of the price becomes dominant, overshadowing other arguments.

A detailed explanation of this phenomenon is superfluous, because savings has always been decisive, regardless of where it is applied.

Additional tips and warnings for the manufacture of the tractor do it yourself

Before starting a full-fledged exploitation, a homemade minitractor, you need to register it into account in the traffic police.

This is not simple formality, but an explanatory need, because when driving on the roads common useYou can impose a penalty sanctions on you, and the aggregate itself is transported to the free-kick.

As for technical aspects, then there is its own specificity. To the engine homemade aggregate Issued the necessary parameters, i.e. About 2 thousand revolutions at 3 km / h, you need to correctly correct the transmission scheme. In general, ideally, each rear axle wheel should be equipped with a gearbox.

If the basis for a minitractor performs a motoblock, for example, or some other, then it is better that it possessed a special coupling that allows you to attach to it optional equipment. In general, you should carefully choose the model of the motoblock you want to remake under the minitractor.

For these purposes, the "Centaur" motoblock can be perfectly fitting with a capacity of 9 hp, as well as the necessary technical data necessary for alterations.

Conclusion

The manufacture of a homemade minitractor is becoming increasingly relevant, especially for owners of small land plots. The fact is that the use of large-sized tractors may be inappropriate, because they will not be able to show all their working performance on such a small plot of land.

In addition, fuel costs can become truly inexpermissioning non-private farmers.

The savings also explains the refusal to acquire a minitractor in a special store, because agriculture is far from the most profitable type of business in our country. Therefore, for the usual dachanik, the optimal option will be the manufacture of an aggregate with its own forces.

Costs are penny, and the performance of the finished home-made minitractor can pleasantly surprise you. Naturally, if you use a relatively powerful engine and not very old spare parts.

Do not forget that this method may not be suitable for some persons who do not have due skills in handling the welding machine or turning machine, for example. In this case, you can simply order the necessary details from the masters that will be manufactured.

You will have to pay, of course, but no more than the amount you need to pay for the finished minitractor.

Agricultural motoblocks have one serious drawback - the operator has to walk on foot along the area being processed together with them. As a result, fatigue occurs rather quickly, and the time of performance increases, which leads to a sharp decrease in labor efficiency. Another thing is a mini-tractor, which has a full-fledged wheels and steering. But not everyone may afford to buy such a technique. Therefore, in an agricultural environment, self-made minitractors, which are constructed on the basis of professional or semi-professional motoblocks in the agricultural medium.

Alteration of a motoblock into a minitractor: Highlights

In contrast to amateur equipment, professional and semi-professional has greater and power. For example, from a motoblock with diesel engine at 9 hp You can make a completely decent mini tractor for plowing and cultivation. In the final score, it all depends on the purposes that the owner of the modifiable technique is going to reach.

Construction and assembly of a homemade minitractor - the task is not simple, but perfect. And for its successful solution, it is necessary to focus on two points:

1. Development of body and frame, as well as the schemes of their connection with the base of the mini-tractor - the motor-block.
2. Development of the kinematic scheme.

Frame and homemade body are performed from metal corners or profiled pipes. When calculating the design, it is necessary to consider the ratio of its weight with the power of the motor, as well as the resistance that the machine will overcome when performing different species work.

If you choose a powerful fiberboard as the basis for a homemade minitractor, it allows you to use ready-made automotive or motorcycle trailers. Moreover, leading manufacturers of motoblocks have long provide a constructive possibility of connecting such trailers to the manufactured technique.

The kinematic scheme of the self-made mini-tractor is a complex of constructive solutions that provide torque transmission from the engine of the motor-block to the leading (predominantly rear) wheels. When calculating, it is necessary to distribute the load on the leading axis uniformly - from this directly depend on both reliability and durability and functionality, that is, the possibilities of using the technique.

Minitractor do it yourself: where to start?

In fact, there are many options for self-constructing a minitractor. However, the principles are used everywhere approximately the same:

1. Deployed towards the operator and fixed on the frame.
2. Control is implemented using steering.
3. Used hydraulic drum brake.
4. For brakes and clutch uses pedal control.
5. For accelerator I. hinged equipment Manual control is used.
6. The operator seat is placed above the rear axle.

One of the most simple ways to create a minitractor with your own hands is the purchase of an adapter - a two-wheeled trolley with a seat for the operator and the aggregate system (to install mounted equipment).

Obviously, various parts will need for the assembly of a minitractor. They can be easily found among the automotive. For example, drum brake for leading wheels, steering rack and pedal control nodes can be taken from a passenger car VAZ. In the same way, the trail in the auto parts market is also selected, both the seat, and other structural parts for a homemade mini tractor.

But besides the spare parts, it is necessary to have a whole arsenal of the instrument at hand and a whole tool - welding machine, drill, disk saw, wrench, etc. And it is very desirable that in the process of assembling a minitractor you have access to a specially equipped workshop or if necessary, you could use the services of specialists in welding, milling, plumbing and emergency repair.

Rama minitractor

The chassis is the basis of a minitractor. Its main quality should be reliability, but you need to closely monitor the total weight of the structure, in order to ensure the normal clutch of the wheel base with the soil when performing work and at the same time do not overload the engine.

For the manufacture of a frame of the homemade minitractor of the middle power, a lightweight channel, a profiled pipe or metal corner suitable. Dimensions of the design, the assembly of which is performed by the method of welding, must be responsible for the sizes of the machine. By the contour of the frame, it is necessary to perform holes for hiding and fixing the structural elements of the minitractor.

The weight ratio of the frame and its strength should be optimal. It is not necessary to overload the design with additional ribbies, as well as saving on the metal, sacrificing common indicators of reliability.

Before you begin assembling the frame, you need to decide on which trailers and you are going to use when working with it. And in order not to lose the thought in the design process, before starting work, you should perform drawings future car and its main nodes with basic sizes. To do this, you can use the finished documentation that you want to adapt to the specific parameters of your minitractor.

Front and rear bridges

These nodes are created from individual spare parts and nodes taken from passenger or even trucks or other agricultural machinery. However, some details, like the assembly itself, you will come to perform yourself.

To make the front axle, you will need:

• transverse beam;
• sleeves of supporting rotary axes;
• axes sleeve;
• wheels of wheels;
• (ball and roller);
• bolt connections.

With the function of the transverse beam perfectly cope with the segment of the profiled pipe or metal corner. For the manufacture of sleeves of the semi-axes, structural steel 45. The support-rotary bushings are performed from the profiled tube, improved by the installation of bearings, and closed with steel covers made of steel grade St3. Front axle assembly consisting of a cylindrical clip and roller bearings welded in the center of the transverse beam. With the help of large bolts, the bridge must be fixed to the sleeves in the cross-beam frame.

The power of the bolt joints is responsible for the magnitude of the back of the front axle relative to the design of the minitractor. Too hard, as well as too freely, fixing is negatively reflected on comfort in control, so the backlash should be optimal.

Similarly, the assembly of the rear axle is performed. The finished design can be borrowed, say, from the car UAZ. A long stocking of such a bridge will need to shorten - so it is possible to use standard short semi-axes. It will not hurt to protect the rear axle, and rather its welded connections from possible beats during operation. To do this, the caliper is applied - a metal corner, superimposed along the welds of the prefabricated construction of the bridge.

Wheel base and kinematic scheme

The choice of wheels for a homemade minitractor deserves separate attention. It is possible to use wheels from passenger carHowever, dimension should be observed here. Optimal dimensions wheels For 12-14 inches. When choosing a smaller diameter, there is a risk that the machine in the process of operation will be burned with a nose into the ground. On the other hand, if the front wheels are too large, the operator for making maneuvers will have to apply non-hearth efforts. However, to facilitate the process of managing the machine, you can always use a power steering from a passenger car or other agricultural machinery.

Tires of a minitractor should have developed primrates. This will increase machine maneuverance, will reduce the load on running part and facilitates the management process.

As for the kinematic scheme, it is better to use ready options, whose search currently does not take a lot of effort. The scheme must be adapted to the settings of the nodes that you intend to use to create a minitractor. It will notice will not be able to consider the possibility of connecting attachments, which will repeatedly increase the functionality of the self-made machine.

Management system and operator seat

After the manufacture and installation of the chassis, you can proceed to the implementation of the kinematic circuit and the installation of the control system. The most important thing in this business is to properly place. With this role perfectly cope front seat From a car that is easy to find on car services and in workshops involved in disassembling vehicles.

The steering wheel must be installed on an optimal height operator. The steering wheel should not interfere with the free placement of the knees - it must be fixed so that in the sitting position the work with it did not cause discomfort.

All the necessary details for pedal, manual and lever control of the machine and its functional nodes can be found in the same place where the seat and all other parts are in workshops or on the market.

Engine installation and body improvement

After assembling the chassis, the implementation of the kinematic scheme and the installation of the operator's seat with the control system can be started to install the main unit of the minitractor - the engine. For its reliable fixation on the frame, you should use a special slab with grooves - it will give the chassis additional rigidity. Next, you need to pave electrical and mechanical control circuits, connect and configure the operation of the control system.

The body's casing is performed at the request of the user, however, some nodes and structural elements are still better to close. This will prevent their pollution and failure in case of contact with outsiders and soil.