Replacing the oil on Skoda Fabia. Everyone will cope with it! What kind of oil is better for Skoda Fabia

the main / KPP

Skoda Fabia. 2 - a popular machine, very reliable and compact modelWith high demand due to balanced characteristics, high-quality components, as well as a developed dealer network. The second-generation hatchback of the same name appeared on the market in the second half of the 2000s, and since then he got a lot positive feedback from Russian motorists. This model Pretty simple and undemanding in service. One of the easiest, and at the same time responsible fabia service procedures - the choice and replacement of the engine in the engine. The pattern is such that the better than (and not necessarily more expensive), the longer the service life of the motor. Consider in more detail what to pay attention to when choosing such an important consumator.

To begin with, we consider motor gamma For Skoda Fabia 2:

Three-cylinder gasoline 1,2-liter power motor 44 and 51 horsepower
Four-cylinder gasoline 1.4-liter motor power 63 and 105 horsepower
4-cylinder petrol motor With turbocharged and injection - volume 1.2, with a capacity of 63, 77 and 132 liters. from.

Oil into the Skoda Fabia engine should be poured after a certain time - depending on which the intersavice interval at the engine. It can be found in the user manual, in the section marked "Intervals service" Even in the instructions there are a passport nameplate with the designations of QGO, QG1 and QG2.

If there is in the instructions of this designation (QGO or QG2), the intersavice oil replacement interval in the OBS will be about 15 thousand km. If the QG1 parameter is specified in the passport book, then the replacement of the engine oil should be made on the basis of readings on-board computer - He will tell you when changing the oil. But in this case it is important to remember that the maximum mileage until the next replacement of lubrication should not exceed 30 thousand km or 24 months.

In addition, in the user manual attached to Skoda Fabia, there are many parameters for which it is necessary to navigate when choosing a suitable liquid. For example, for Engines 1.2 Mpi (44 l. p.) and 1.2 Mpi (51 liters), as well as 1.4 MPI (63 l.), Oil corresponding to labels VW 503 00 or VW 504 00. These marking should be indicated on the product label. As for more modern motors 1.2 TSI (63 l. P.), 1.2 TSI (77 liters.) And 1.2 TSI (132 liters), it is advisable to use liquid with the designation VW 504 00.

We still pay attention to the labeling for engines 1.2 Mpi, having a fixed oil replacement interval. For them, the oil VW 502 00 is recommended.

Factory Oil

Inexperienced and novice motorists can advise the oil that is poured at the factory is a proven Castrol 5W30. In general, for Skoda Fabia 2, oil of any brand is suitable, if only it corresponded to the specifications of Volkswagen. Thus, the engines with a fixed mileage are poured oil with a viscosity of the OW-40, and with a flexible interval - 5W-30.

Finally, we will highlight some products approved by the manufacturer specifically for Skoda Fabia:

FEBI 32945.
SWAG 15 93 2945
FEBI 32942.
FEBI 32947.
FEBI 32948.

Video

Replacing Oil Skoda Fabia 1.2

Yesterday I changed the oil on Skoda Fabia 2003 release with the engine 1.2 (the same engine was put on the car Volkswagen-Polto). The car was released in 2003 in the Czech Republic, purchased by me from hand in 2009. But the oil was previously not changed, although it is not good.

The cork on the crankcase is in the back, so you can safely "blow up the front" - the oil will better flock. I put some silicate bricks and drove on them.

The front was raised to the height of silicate brick - about 9 cm

What is needed when changing the oil in the car?

So, here is the list that I used when the oil change in the Skoda:

Item Item 13 mm;
Set of keys under the asterisk;
Hexagon for unscrewing drain plug;
36 key to unscrewing the lid oil filter;
Plastic bottle with a capacity of 5 liters for draining oil;
Castrol 5W-30 oil;
Oil filter with a sealing ring.

Tools that used when changing oil

The filter took the original in the Skoda salon for 600 rubles. Judging by the packaging, made in Germany.

Filter made in Germany

In order to remove the protection of the crankcase (pallet), it is required to unscrew 6 bolts for 13 and six screws under the asterisk. By the way, I did not have the screws, because someone did not bother to wrap them after the previous removal of the pallet.

The process of draining oil

Before the plum of oil, the engine started and drove it until the fan did not work. Slightly weakened the suspension stopper with hexagon. The plug was twisted from the soul, thought that I could not unscrew, as I saw that the sires on the hexagon were already started to be deformed.

Revealing drain plug On the Coda Carter

Next, put the cut-made plastic bottle with a capacity of 5 liters. I also wanted to put the cardboard from the bottom, but it was too lazy, as I regretted, since the enon number of oil fell on the reinforced concrete slab on which the car stood.

In vain did not put the cardboard, as the oil got on the slab

Attention! If the car warmed before changing the oil, do not forget that the oil is hot.

When oil drains, it makes sense to pull out the dipstick so that there is additional air access to the Carter - so the oil will be better to drain.

After all the oil supposedly glass, I decided to use the Council from the Internet and blow through the tube into the oil drain hole. Tube took from the hydraulic level. As a result of such actions, there were additionally about 100 grams of spent oil.

Draining oil residues from crankcase due to air injection through the tube

The oil is fused, you can proceed to replacing the oil filter, but the main thing is not to forget to spin the crankcase cork. Before spinning the plug, look in what condition washer. On a concrete car, the puck copper.

Copper with copper washer

It is rumored that the washer when changing the oil should be changed. Replace that is not a problem when there is something. Externally, everything is fine with the washer, and once normal, then twisted the plug into place.

Replacing the oil filter

In order to get to the oil filter, it is not necessary to spinning as the body of the oil filter is located next to the radiator - it is enough to remove the air. On the filter cover there is a turnkey five-channel on 36. Before unscrew the filter cover, you should put the rag from the bottom, otherwise the oil will fall on the generator. I unscrewed the cover with a regular horn key.

Unscrew the oil filter cover

Oil filter is located inside the lid - dressed on plastic rod.

Oil filter is inside the lid

Attention! The rod is just pulling out, but it is necessary to make decent efforts. I even thought first that I could do something wrong and was afraid to break the rod.

To pull the rod to make decent efforts

Vidosh at the filter was, to put it mildly, not very.

Obviously the filter has long needed replacing

Well, tighten the exhaust filter from the rod.

Wipe the rod, lubricate the edges of the new filter clean oil And we dress the filter on the rod.

The new filter looks much better than the old

We insert the rod in the filter into the lid and change the sealing ring on the lid. The sealing ring comes in a set with the filter, in any case, it was when I was purchased a filter in the Skoda cabin.

Do not forget to replace the oil filter cover sealing ring

Spin the filter into place. Now you can proceed to the fill of fresh oil.

Filling fresh engine oil

As I said, it was bought castrol oil 5W-30. At the factory, as far as I know, poured Shell 5W-30. The oil was bought in the Skoda cabin - poured from a barrel into two plastic bottles of 2 liters, and a total of 4 liters. On the book in the Carter it is necessary to pour 3.5 liters of oil. I poured at first about three liters of oil, then controlled the level of Schu.

I poured up to half the mark on the dipstick - in fact, at this level, the oil has always been and was within 4 years after the car fell into my hand.

That's all. If you have questions, ask them in the comments.

Cars Skoda Fabia are widespread in Russia. This compact class representative is among the best-selling models of the Czech automaker. Fabia is valued for their worthy technical and performance features, it is easy to repair and allows you to do without any problems independent service. In the "Skoda Fabia", the replacement of oil is considered one of the most simple procedures. Here, the main thing is to follow the instructions, repel from the official recommendations and comply with the rules of security to avoid unwanted injuries and burns with hot oil.

With difficult operating conditions, the engine oil in Skoda Fabia follows more often.

Replacement frequency

Let's start with how often Fabia requires. The official regulation of the Czech automaker says that the period between replacements lubricant Fabia has 15 thousand kilometers or 1 years of operation. But these indicators can decrease when exposed to internal and external factors:

intensive operation of the car;
bad roads;
pollution and dusting of sites for which a car is mainly driving;
aggressive driving manner;
sharp temperature differences;
frequent speed excess;
the use of poor engine oil and a cheap filter;
refueling bad fuel, etc.

All this negatively affects the state of the engine. Gradually, the lubricant loses its original physicochemical properties, does not envelop moving parts sufficiently. The process of engine wear begins due to the resulting friction. Metal sedental particles pollute the filter, penetrate the entire oil system, outflow the components of the motor. Overload and overheating can seriously affect the engine, to bring it out of order and provoking the need for large financial investments for repair. To prevent this, try.

Check level and status

To give objective assessment Current oil that is flooded with the "Skoda Fabia" engine, you need to look under the hood, find the dipstick and remove it. The measuring probe is located in the hole through which the fresh motor lubrication is poured. It is made on the MIN and Max mark. Optimally, when the probe, the trace from the liquid remains between two marks. If the level is lower, it takes a little plump oil. It is also impossible to overstat the crankcreter with lubricant, otherwise you will have to merge unnecessary and engage in additional dismantling work under the car.

In addition to level, draw your attention to the lubricant. Not always a simple tank helps to resume the normal operation of the entire engine. The following criteria are talking about the poor condition of the oil:

the liquid has become muddy or dark;
from the oil occurs a grown smell;
it is noticeable particles of garbage, dirt or precipitate.

Noticing at least one of these signs, be sure.

Select Oil

Before changing the engine lubricant, it should be competently selected the corresponding liquid for the Skoda Fabia car. Its volume depends on the engine installed on the car:

on the motors of 1.2 liters, you need only 2.8 liters of engine oil;
1.4 liter engines require 3.2 liters of lubrication;
power units with a volume of 1.6 liters according to the instructions include 3.6 liters of oil;
in the 1.9-liter motor poured 4.3 liters of lubrication.

Even from the factory in the engine "Skoda" produced by Castrol. To be more accurate, this is SLX Professional Powerflow 5W30 with VW 504 tolerance. But SLX oil is not officially supplied. The version of EDGE came to shift. At all official dealers Skoda advise to use 5W30 lubrication for Fabia. Regarding manufacturers, it is better to choose the following:

- CASTROL EDGE;
- Mobil;

This is a list of what engine oil is poured into the car "Skoda Fabi" and its engines. From these recommendations, it is better not to detect and not experiment. Apply only synthetic compositions. Mineral and even semi-synthetic mixtures in the engine are better not to fill, regardless of the operating conditions and characteristics of motor oils.

Cheap lubricants or mixtures that do not match the requirements of the manufacturer lead to premature wear Engine parts and expensive repair. Therefore it is better to spend a little more money on good liquidWhat then becomes a regular car service client.

Replacement procedure

If you decide to do on the car "Skoda Fabia" yourself, repel from the official regulation and do not forget about safety measures. Following step by step, you can easily change the engine lubricant and decently save on the service of the car service.

The standard procedure and does not provide for especially difficult moments. But questions arise regarding the change of oil filter on the "Skoda Fabia".

Oil filter

To change this element of the engine lubrication system, you will need a special key-excavator for oil filters. Or take the key to 32. Although it is much more convenient to work with the reservoirs. The device replacement procedure is somewhat different depending on which type of filter is mounted on the machine:

with a replaceable filter;
with a replaceable filtering element.

If the replacement is subject to the entire filter, then it is changed according to the following instruction:

A somewhat different work is done if the case is not required to change, and only the filter element is enough to change in the filter.

Here, act on such instructions:

remove the filter as in the previous case;
from the body of the details, remove the filter element and the seal;
in their place, put replacement consumables;
twist the filter cover;
the detail is delayed with a torque wrench, applying a force of 25 nm.

This works completed. Just consider that such a procedure allows partially to replace the engine lubricant as often old liquid Anyway remains in the engine system. If you want to fully change the engine oil, without resorting to the help of specialists, then do the complex cleaning.

You know what oil volume is provided in different engines. But in practice when it self-replacement The optimal level is achieved with a smaller amount of lubrication than indicated in specifications. This is due to the fact that during self-replacement without using special equipment Part of the old lubricant remains inside the engine. Therefore, when pouring a new mixture, it mixes with the old. This mixture cannot be considered completely fresh oil, and rather, it is a combination of two liquids.

If the car owner wants to achieve a deep cleaning of the system and maximize the physico-chemical properties of fresh motor lubrication, it will be necessary to carry out a complex cleaning. The minus is that the impressive amount of new oil will have to use. But it is still cheaper than the service of the car service. Cleaning is performed by periodic oil replacement. Everything is done as we described before. The only nuance is in the frequency between the replacement. It is about 500 kilometers.

It is recommended to change the oil of about 3 to 4 times, which will allow fully output from the system all the remains of the old lubricant and give the engine the opportunity to work on absolutely fresh composition. If the system is completely clean, then exactly the amount of engine oil will enter the engine, which is indicated in the specifications.

"Skoda Fabia" is a fairly simple car in terms of repair and maintenance. Therefore, most owners prefer to do it on their own. Changing timely motor lubricants and using the compositions only appropriate regulations, you will provide a power unit for a long time and trouble-free work, will significantly save on the repair and appeals to the station maintenance.

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The small car in Class Skoda Fabia was first shown at the exhibition in Frankfurt in 1999. The model came to the change of the Felicia series and became one of the most popular Czech concern cars, making serious competition for Chevrolet Aveo, Opel Corsa, Hyundai Accent, Renault Logan, Mazda2 and other market leaders of small cars. The first two generations of Fabia are designed on the Volkswagen A04 platform (PQ24) and completed with engines similar to VW Polo models: gasoline 1.2, 1.4 and 1.6 liters, as well as diesel engines with a working volume of 1.2-1.9 liters. Data on the types of oilfilled oil and its number are indicated in the second half of the article. In 2014, the third generation of Fabia was debuted at the Paris Motor Show, which is produced before today.

The first generation of Fabia was completed as weak outdated motors on 1.0 (50 hp) and 1.4 (68 hp) liters and more powerful from 54-120 hp. The power of diesel modifications varied from 69 to 131 hp. The model was held its first restyling in 2005, and after 2 years later, its generation 5J was submitted to the public. The updated car had the same wheel baseHowever, it became above the predecessor, which was reflected in the spaciousness of the cabin. Rule power aggregates It was transferred from Generation 6Y: Diesel engines 1.4 and 1.9 liters and gasoline 1.2, 1.4 and 1.6 liters. All of them worked in a pair or with a 6-range automatic transmission, or on mechanics. 2010 brought a car to another update, during which he received the redesigned front and new motors. Now instead of 1.4 and 1.6-liter engines, the subcarrane space occupies turbo-models 1.2 and 1.4. Diesel modifications are replaced by 1.2 and 1.6-liter TDI. On the russian market 3 gasoline options were hit: by 1.2 liters (70 hp, the maximum acceleration is 164 km / h, the first hundred is 15 seconds), by 1.4 liters (86 hp, 175 km / h, 12.7 seconds), and Also at 1.6 liters (105 hp, 195 km / h, 10.4 seconds).

Generation 1 (1999-2007)

Engine ARV 1.0.

How many oil litters in the engine (total volume): 4.0 l.

Engine AZQ 1.2.

What engine oil is poured from the plant (original): Synthetic 5W30
Oil types (viscosity): 5W-30, 5W-40
How many litters of oil in the engine (total volume): 2.8 liters.
Oil consumption per 1000 km.: Up to 500 ml.
When to change the oil: 7500-15000

Viscosity and specifications

At the manufacturer in the manufacturer in the engine, special all-season oil of high quality is poured, which is suitable for operation at any time of the year, with the exception of particularly cold climatic zones.

In the engine you can top up the oil of another specification. The degree of viscosity of oil should be chosen in accordance with the data on . If the air temperature is only briefly stacked in the temperature of the temperature values \u200b\u200bshown in the figure, the oil should not be replaced.

Gasoline engines

BUT - all-season oils With elevated antifriction properties, the specification VW 500 00.

B is all-season oils, specification VW 501 01.

- All-season oils, API-SF or SG specification.

Diesel engines

A - all-season oils with increased antifriction properties, specification VW 500 00 (for diesel engines With turbocharging only in a mixture with oil Specifications VW 505 00).

In - all-season oils, specification VW 505 00 (for all diesel engines),

- All-season oils, the API-CD specification (for diesel engines with a turbocharger only in case of extreme necessity for the topping).

- All-season oils, specification VW 501 01 (for diesel engines with turbocharging only in a mixture with oil VW 505 00 specification).

Motor oils

All-season oils of specs of VW 501 01 and VW 505 00 are relatively cheaps and have the following qualities:

- the possibility of year-round use in the zones of moderate climate;

- excellent detergents;

- good lubricating capacity at any temperature and engine loads;

- Stability of the initial properties for a long time.

All-season oils with improved antifriction qualities according to the VW 500 00 specifications have, in addition, additional advantages:

- the possibility of using almost at any outdoor temperature;

- Small engine power losses for friction;

- facilitate the start of the cold engine even at a very low temperature.

Warnings

Seasonal oils due to their inherent specific viscosity properties are usually impossible to use all year round, so they should be used only in the respective climatic zones.

When using all-season oils SAE. 5W-30 It is necessary to avoid continuous operation of the engine with high speed and constant heavy load on the engine. These limitations do not apply to all-season oils with improved antifriction qualities.

Motor oil additives

Do not add to the engine oil additives that reduce friction losses.

Mixing oils

This and similar questions are interested in many motorists. Unfortunately, it is impossible to mix oils, even if it is the oils of leading manufacturers (Shell, Mobil, British Petroleum). Each company produces commercial oils by adding to oil-based A whole complex of additives whose chemical composition is kept secret. Therefore, when mixing high-quality oils of the same purpose, made in accordance with the requirements of existing systems for the classification of motor oils, but on technologies of various firms, low-quality mixtures may be obtained due to the incompatibility of additives. Oil different firms Interchangeably, the possibility of using such oils often indicate Motor Lockers. But this does not mean that they can be mixed. Systems aPI classification And Acea suggests the mandatory identical test methods (laboratory, bench - motor, etc.) oils of different firms. If desired (or needed), automotive firms may introduce additional tests (or more rigid conditions) oils.

The same refers to mixing mineral or synthetic oils (sometimes even one company). Synthetic oils, for example, hydrocarbon, one firm can be mixed. In this case, the company - the oil producer gives the relevant recommendations and is responsible. Nevertheless, there are cases when with mixing oils deteriorates their quality. As a result, the engine can kick, since the mixture of incompatible oils turns into "jelly".

In no case cannot be mixed and domestic oils, especially with the addition of domestic additives. Neither the seller nor the consumer know the composition of the additives that are added to the oil. Some "domestic origin" are produced by "firms" who do not even have elementary knowledge of petroleum products. Sometimes such "specialists" use spent oils (even without proper regeneration) for the production of "commodity". Use only oils recommended in the instruction manual.

No "cleaners" ("Tocron" and others) are not able to increase octane number Gasoline. For this, special additives are used - antiques, which are added in the manufacturing process of gasoline on refinery, or additives. The cause of detonation (the metal knock is heard during the engine operation) and the vibil ignition (the engine continues to operate when the ignition is turned off) can be a nagar in the combustion chamber.

Increasing compression in the system "When Introduction of some additives" occurs not due to viscous additives, since they do not have them in their composition, but for other reasons.

Reduce the waste of oil in the old engine and increase compression in the cylinders due to the use of highly viscous oils is inappropriate, as this will actually lead to an increase in compression in the cylinders, but not long. In the future, the repair of the engine will cost more.

The reason for the "acoustic" noise in the old engine is its wear, so the repair will be cheaper with the subsequent use of high-quality oil. You can reduce the gaps with additives, but in the appropriateness of this should be sorted out to not harm the engine.

It is necessary to take a rule: use the appropriate engine high quality oil One brand and not mix it with synthetic (or semi-synthetic) oil. The engine for it thanks the trouble-free job. Do not buy oil "from hand", as the packaging is easy to fake.

Replacing butter and oil filter

Periodic replacement of oil and oil filter is the most important prophylactic maintenance procedure. In the process of operation, the engine oil agrees - it becomes liquid and contaminated, which leads to premature engine wear.

It is necessary to replace the oil immediately after the trip is not yet cooled the engine so that the oil is better glass along with contaminants.

Raise the car on the lift or set it in a horizontal position on the viewing ditch.

Remove the lower engine mudguard.

Gasoline engines V6.

Scroll out the oil filter ( ). If the filter is unscrewed, use the HAZET 2171-1 special key.

Place the oil collection container under the oil drip opening and unscrew the cork. If necessary, click on the plug when unscrewing so that the oil does not make the oil prematurely, and drain the engine oil.

When the oil is completely stroke, wipe the oil around the drain hole and screw the oil drain plug with a new sealing ring.

Wipe the location of the oil filter and screw the new oil filter.

Gasoline engines V8.

Oil filter is located in the right back of the engine.

On engines V8-5V. no oil drain plug on the lid of the oil filter.

Place the oil collection container under the drain hole and unscrew the cork. If necessary, click on the plug when unscrewing so that the oil does not make the oil prematurely, and drain the engine oil.

Unscrew the mounting bolt 1 and remove the lid and the oil filter element.

Wipe the housing and the oil filter cover and install the new filter element 5 ( ) Oil filter.

Lubricate fresh motor Oil Sealing ring 4, set the cover 3 with a sealing ring in place and fasten with a bolt 1 with a new seal 2, tightening it with a torque of 25 N · m.

Screw the plug 7 with a new sealing ring 6 into the filter cover and tighten it with a point of 50 N · m.

Wipe the oil around the drain hole and screw the plug hole in the oil pan, tightening it with 35 N · m.

Fill the oil of the corresponding brand into the engine.

On the V8-5V engines, tighten the oil filter cover bolt with a torque of 25 N · m, and the tube to the oil trailing torque of 50 N · m.

Diesel engines V6 TDI

Remove the o-ring 2 and the filter element 3 of the oil filter.

Clean the oil filter housing and set the new filter element 3.

Set on the cover 1 new sealing ring 2 and screw the cover on the housing, tightening it with a point of 25 N · m.

Place the container for draining the oil under the drain hole and unscrew the cork, if necessary, pressing it when unscrewing so that the oil does not flow prematurely and drain the engine oil.

When the oil is fully stroke, wipe the oil around the drain hole and screw the plug with a new sealing ring by tightening it with a point of 25 N · m.